Speaking for your german friends here. This version will be the best you can get for that price. Get this version + the Stalker Ultimative upgrade-kit, put the green Stalker anti shock rubber pad in it and use a silencer (Sniper Mechanic Hexx Suppressor by far the best), you will land at around 550€. For that price you will get one of the most silent sniper rifles out there. Due to its barrel length of 330mm you will have a little less range in comparison to the standart Tac-41 (510mm barrel length), still you will get consistent shots at ~70m. But if you keep in mind that this version is 200€ cheaper than the standart, it is a good compromise.
Replace one part at a time with the aap…(except a full hammer set of course!) i made the mistake of swapping nearly everything and have spent a lot of time and money troubleshooting which part wasn’t working with mine…stellar replica, just don’t mess with it all at once, I’d leave the bolt assembly alone unless you are going for high rps, bucking is good to change but stock one is decent, hop unit works but the cnc one by aa is easier to use on the fly in games, hope your build goes okay and hope this helps you a little! Really all you need for it to perform well is a bucking, better inner barrel, and a hammer set that’s steel and won’t break on you 👍🏻 the rest of just preference I feel
Bit of advice for hop units if my opinion means anything :P Stock = Works fine. Does the job just requires you to split the upper from the lower to adjust and those adjustments can be a bit vague. Unless you carbine it you'll be fine with the stock chamber. TTI/Tridos/Thingiverse TDC plates = It's the stock chamber with better adjustment, that's it. TTI is at least CNC. AA CNC = It's basically the super popular AA red VSR chamber shoved in a pistol. By default it has clicky detends but can have an o-ring fitted to provide finer adjustment. A fair wack of the mods, nubs etc you can put in the VSR chamber will work with this. Bar having to split the pistol open to adjust it this thing is setting a high bar. Hadron Loki = Very simple construction, facilitates minute adjustments and it is easy to adjust on the fly, especially with the sold seperately external adjustment wheel. You do have to drill your upper and it can bit a bit of a tight c**t to fit certain bucking and barrel combos but once you get it together it performs well. Stalker Kraken = Most of the benefits of the Loki while being a split design that makes it easier to fit bucking and barrel. Major problem is the SLS printed adjustment cover is a bit fat for some aftermarket uppers and just doesn't look as clean as the Loki. Otherwise it's functionally and performantly near identical to the Loki. (And before anyone starts, I know Stalker aren't too popular around here but this particular product is good so there ya go). NexxSpeed CNC = very new so haven't had much chance to actually use it in a game but initial impressions are it fixes my issues with the Loki and Kraken. No need to drill your upper as you adjust a wheel on top of the unit through the ejection port. Split design like the Kraken so no need for the Loki lubin'. My preference = Using a red Loki atm primarily for looks lol. Will be testing the NexxSpeed soon but if it performs as well as the other TDCs I think it might be the one that stays in my Skelfuku2. Edit; The Loki, Kraken and Nexx have proprietary nubs btw! So if you're set on an omega + maple leaf bucking combo or similar then absolutely go AA CNC.
What i see on a friend tac ls and we can see it on yours at the end of the video. If you look on the 3rd mlock slot bb are exposed on the outside element when there betwen the feed ramp and the hop up. I don't know if it can be an issue but is it possible that forest debris are comming in the gun? Not as much as it was possible on the striker as01 with the wide open on the cylinder. But if we take a look most airsoft sniper are running closed
Maybe this is helpful to someone, cause it would have been useful to me, and after watching all the reviews i could about this replica (this is the best series by far anyways) nobody said this before, don´t buy the polymer receiver version, the bolt is extremly loose inside the receiver, like 2mm all around the bolt, AND there are not guide rings inside the receiver, you cant change them, you cant make the receiver-bolt interaction tighter, you have to be really, really careful to pull the bolt in again after cocking it as straight as you can to ensure you are not damaging the nozzle or the hop up chamber, i can feel how the nozzle struggles to enter inside the chamber.... I will try to find my way to drill 2 chanels inside the plastic receiver so i can try to install some o-rings to acomodate the bolt tighter, and if i fail... i will buy a separate aluminun receiver because my plan was to buy the stalker guide rings wich are tighter than the original ones, cant be done ^^ Maybe some type of teflon armaflex tape will do the work.....
Can’t wait to see the series, would love to see it tricked out with silent parts and a suppressor, could be my new rifle !
Speaking for your german friends here.
This version will be the best you can get for that price.
Get this version + the Stalker Ultimative upgrade-kit, put the green Stalker anti shock rubber pad in it and use a silencer (Sniper Mechanic Hexx Suppressor by far the best), you will land at around 550€. For that price you will get one of the most silent sniper rifles out there. Due to its barrel length of 330mm you will have a little less range in comparison to the standart Tac-41 (510mm barrel length), still you will get consistent shots at ~70m. But if you keep in mind that this version is 200€ cheaper than the standart, it is a good compromise.
Looks like a great build!
Any Chance On More AAP-01 Content . Just Bought One And Plan On Building It Out . But Great Videos , Love What You Do Keep It Up Mate
Replace one part at a time with the aap…(except a full hammer set of course!) i made the mistake of swapping nearly everything and have spent a lot of time and money troubleshooting which part wasn’t working with mine…stellar replica, just don’t mess with it all at once, I’d leave the bolt assembly alone unless you are going for high rps, bucking is good to change but stock one is decent, hop unit works but the cnc one by aa is easier to use on the fly in games, hope your build goes okay and hope this helps you a little!
Really all you need for it to perform well is a bucking, better inner barrel, and a hammer set that’s steel and won’t break on you 👍🏻 the rest of just preference I feel
@@AverageSkater thank you man that really helps
Bit of advice for hop units if my opinion means anything :P
Stock = Works fine. Does the job just requires you to split the upper from the lower to adjust and those adjustments can be a bit vague. Unless you carbine it you'll be fine with the stock chamber.
TTI/Tridos/Thingiverse TDC plates = It's the stock chamber with better adjustment, that's it. TTI is at least CNC.
AA CNC = It's basically the super popular AA red VSR chamber shoved in a pistol. By default it has clicky detends but can have an o-ring fitted to provide finer adjustment. A fair wack of the mods, nubs etc you can put in the VSR chamber will work with this. Bar having to split the pistol open to adjust it this thing is setting a high bar.
Hadron Loki = Very simple construction, facilitates minute adjustments and it is easy to adjust on the fly, especially with the sold seperately external adjustment wheel. You do have to drill your upper and it can bit a bit of a tight c**t to fit certain bucking and barrel combos but once you get it together it performs well.
Stalker Kraken = Most of the benefits of the Loki while being a split design that makes it easier to fit bucking and barrel. Major problem is the SLS printed adjustment cover is a bit fat for some aftermarket uppers and just doesn't look as clean as the Loki. Otherwise it's functionally and performantly near identical to the Loki. (And before anyone starts, I know Stalker aren't too popular around here but this particular product is good so there ya go).
NexxSpeed CNC = very new so haven't had much chance to actually use it in a game but initial impressions are it fixes my issues with the Loki and Kraken. No need to drill your upper as you adjust a wheel on top of the unit through the ejection port. Split design like the Kraken so no need for the Loki lubin'.
My preference = Using a red Loki atm primarily for looks lol. Will be testing the NexxSpeed soon but if it performs as well as the other TDCs I think it might be the one that stays in my Skelfuku2.
Edit; The Loki, Kraken and Nexx have proprietary nubs btw! So if you're set on an omega + maple leaf bucking combo or similar then absolutely go AA CNC.
@@MacMeaties yeah i’ve already decided to get a loki hop because of jaegers video and many other of it shooting laser beams
@@ABitBrit-Twitch Remember lube!
What i see on a friend tac ls and we can see it on yours at the end of the video. If you look on the 3rd mlock slot bb are exposed on the outside element when there betwen the feed ramp and the hop up. I don't know if it can be an issue but is it possible that forest debris are comming in the gun? Not as much as it was possible on the striker as01 with the wide open on the cylinder. But if we take a look most airsoft sniper are running closed
about folding stock in that tac 41 please..😊
Maybe this is helpful to someone, cause it would have been useful to me, and after watching all the reviews i could about this replica (this is the best series by far anyways) nobody said this before, don´t buy the polymer receiver version, the bolt is extremly loose inside the receiver, like 2mm all around the bolt, AND there are not guide rings inside the receiver, you cant change them, you cant make the receiver-bolt interaction tighter, you have to be really, really careful to pull the bolt in again after cocking it as straight as you can to ensure you are not damaging the nozzle or the hop up chamber, i can feel how the nozzle struggles to enter inside the chamber....
I will try to find my way to drill 2 chanels inside the plastic receiver so i can try to install some o-rings to acomodate the bolt tighter, and if i fail... i will buy a separate aluminun receiver because my plan was to buy the stalker guide rings wich are tighter than the original ones, cant be done ^^
Maybe some type of teflon armaflex tape will do the work.....
What issues did you have with your first TAC 41? Are they worth it?
Would be cool with a carbonfiber barrel 🤔
ive already ordered some parts
@@Jaeger-Precision yeah fair play would of had a go at making one for you 👍
Didnt pay for any of them but still moaned, typical Pom behaviour.
do you need to replace the nozzle return spring on the gm 416 like the tm mws?
No