Great job! I learned a lot just by doing exactly what you did and now my basement room feels much better and holds the heat very well, I’m not freezing anymore! thanks again and I hope you’re still sharing what you do with us your video made a difference for me.
I did the same thing. Made a Hugh difference. Our basement used to stay really cold plus the leaks of air. I did it 3 yrs ago. Hugh difference. We live in Ohio next to Lake Erie. I had to do something to stop the air from. Passing through the house. Like I said it worked. I talked to corning rep. This is what he suggested
I seal around all wires and pipe where ever they go through walls. I built my last 3 places and the last place I just called the foam guy to do from rim joists to top plate. We only use about 600 gallons of heating oil a winter to heat a3000 sqft duplex I built. Every gap around wires moves warm air into your walls and attic.
Doing it right now, but using the Alex silicone. I seal all the bottom wood area, let it dry. Then i put in foam board R10, seal it with the Alex silicone & let it dry. Then a layer of the fiber that was there before, but by itself cause wood to be wet. This settles it. Thanks for your great video :)
I ripped out the old fiberglass batt that was stuffed into the cavities and then did the same as you showed... rigid foam sealed to the outside with expanding foam, then put the fiberglass batt back in since I had it anyway (no harm and provides just a bit more R-value). Since my basement is unfinished and not directly heated, I also used a product known as "double bubble" foil backed insulation mounted to the bottom of the floor joists all the way across the entire basement, sealing the joist cavities. I greatly helps to reflect radiant heat back up into the floors above keeping them much warmer. The stuff is relatively cheap (~$150 for a 4x100' foot roll), meets local fire code and is quick & easy to install by stapling and sealing seams with tuck tape. It also completely encapsulated the joist cavities, from rim to rim.
You had me at rim job 🤣. Well done, I agree about removing the Kraft paper. At a minimum, slashing it every few inches should be enough to dissipate moisture.
My only addition would be to use unfaced batting on the inside. The foam board is the vapor barrier in this application. Adding another vapor barrier between the basement & rigid foam isn’t a great idea. Otherwise, good job
So on the fiberglass batting without paper on it? You think it makes that big of a difference even though its loose around the edges? May be going down and removing it then. haha made it so much easier to measure and cut to size. Thank you for the feedback!
from everyone I have talked to the moister can still get through the faced insulation. So that's why I left it on. since I posted this and a good amount of people have said they wouldn't have left it on. I took it off and there wasn't a hint of moister. I have also done temp tests and it hasn't changed after removing the paper facing.
My top of my 1950 cinder block foundation wall has cinder wall openings at the top of the foundation wall. I'm guessing the air intrusion you were talking about is coming from under that board you calked. In my case, I don't have a plank of wood on top like yours, so I can see down the cinder block gaps with an aid of a mirror. Any one here have suggestions in filling the cinder wall top gaps? I was going to use spray foam, but also considered filling with stone and capping with cement...but spray foam sound cheaper and easier! Nice video!
Are you running a line of foam at the bottom of the foam sheet as well? IF so, to you need to prop it up at all to create space on the bottom of the sheet?
Do you see a problem with just pushing some 2 inch foam board and leaving the batt in the joist ? I have removed some batt's and put in 2 inch foam board and seal around it with great stuff but I wonder if I can just board over the batt and seal. Thanks
They shouldn't be getting wet in the first place. If the rim joists are wet that's a whole other issue. The barrier helps that from starting with the humidity and moister from inside.
@@dpoutdoors4702 There's a possibility that they could get wet from a leak or an accident. Moisture will also wick up through the foundation, especially when it rains.
@@martyapo Water and moister will be able to get anywhere eventually. However I an not about to leave my whole house un insulated for fear of an accident. Again rain shouldn't make your rim joist wet or moist. That's like someone not putting insulation in their attic because. "if it rains moister could wick through." condensation from cold air outside and warm are inside or vice versa is the number one cause of moisture/dampness in rim joist. This barrier eliminates that. Yes water can still get in if you have a foundational issue, but like I said above that's a whole other issue.
@@dpoutdoors4702 I appreciate you taking your time to respond in detail. I'm still investigating this process and trying to understand what's best for my situation. It's often easy to "not see the forest for the trees" and get caught up in the minutia. There doesn't seem to be a perfect system out there and everything is a trade off, you either have an airtight house with the problem of moisture getting trapped or a house that breathes the moisture but poorer insulation value. Like my dad always said, "there are no easy horses" and "no free lunches". Thank you again and best wishes.
@@martyapo No problem! Since it's a non perfect world, you're right, there isn't a 100% fool proof way. if you are worried about the moisture and wicking capabilities. You may want to look into using EPS board instead. it lets moisture through, while still giving you extra protection. I work in the trade industry and would strongly suggest something other than just fiberglass though. "no easy horses" and 'no free lunches" I may have to start using that one! good luck! and same to you!!!
I am not sure why you cut the insulation the way u did?? It appeared you added an extra step... The rim cavity is typically 14.5 inches wide(same as your wall) which is why the insulation roll is 14.5 wide.. Just unroll and cut them to the appropriate height - - you mentioned yours is 7.25 to 7.5... Cut the pink fiberglass to roughly 8 inches and insert in opening.
That would half been a smarter way for 2 sides on the basement and would have saved a lot of time! lol The right and left sides I still would have had to cut the way I did unfortunately due to the openings being different sizes. Wish I would have thought about the cutting to height in all the openings I could have though! ugh
Is there any reason why we shouldn't run a bead of caulking around the gaps of the rim joists before putting the rigid insulation in?
Great video. Doing my crawl space soon. Extremely helpful. Glad you showed both ends of the basement.
Thanks man, glad you found it helpful. It's a bit time consuming. However totally worth it.
Great job! I learned a lot just by doing exactly what you did and now my basement room feels much better and holds the heat very well, I’m not freezing anymore! thanks again and I hope you’re still sharing what you do with us your video made a difference for me.
I did the same thing. Made a Hugh difference. Our basement used to stay really cold plus the leaks of air. I did it 3 yrs ago. Hugh difference. We live in Ohio next to Lake Erie. I had to do something to stop the air from. Passing through the house. Like I said it worked. I talked to corning rep. This is what he suggested
I seal around all wires and pipe where ever they go through walls. I built my last 3 places and the last place I just called the foam guy to do from rim joists to top plate. We only use about 600 gallons of heating oil a winter to heat a3000 sqft duplex I built. Every gap around wires moves warm air into your walls and attic.
Doing it right now, but using the Alex silicone. I seal all the bottom wood area, let it dry. Then i put in foam board R10, seal it with the Alex silicone & let it dry. Then a layer of the fiber that was there before, but by itself cause wood to be wet. This settles it. Thanks for your great video :)
I ripped out the old fiberglass batt that was stuffed into the cavities and then did the same as you showed... rigid foam sealed to the outside with expanding foam, then put the fiberglass batt back in since I had it anyway (no harm and provides just a bit more R-value).
Since my basement is unfinished and not directly heated, I also used a product known as "double bubble" foil backed insulation mounted to the bottom of the floor joists all the way across the entire basement, sealing the joist cavities. I greatly helps to reflect radiant heat back up into the floors above keeping them much warmer. The stuff is relatively cheap (~$150 for a 4x100' foot roll), meets local fire code and is quick & easy to install by stapling and sealing seams with tuck tape. It also completely encapsulated the joist cavities, from rim to rim.
You had me at rim job 🤣. Well done, I agree about removing the Kraft paper. At a minimum, slashing it every few inches should be enough to dissipate moisture.
I find using a miter saw to cut longitudinal lengths
thanks for the rim job
My only addition would be to use unfaced batting on the inside. The foam board is the vapor barrier in this application. Adding another vapor barrier between the basement & rigid foam isn’t a great idea. Otherwise, good job
So on the fiberglass batting without paper on it? You think it makes that big of a difference even though its loose around the edges? May be going down and removing it then. haha made it so much easier to measure and cut to size. Thank you for the feedback!
Does placing the faced insulation on top of the foam board creat 2 vapor barriers possibly causing moisture problems?
from everyone I have talked to the moister can still get through the faced insulation. So that's why I left it on. since I posted this and a good amount of people have said they wouldn't have left it on. I took it off and there wasn't a hint of moister. I have also done temp tests and it hasn't changed after removing the paper facing.
My top of my 1950 cinder block foundation wall has cinder wall openings at the top of the foundation wall. I'm guessing the air intrusion you were talking about is coming from under that board you calked. In my case, I don't have a plank of wood on top like yours, so I can see down the cinder block gaps with an aid of a mirror. Any one here have suggestions in filling the cinder wall top gaps? I was going to use spray foam, but also considered filling with stone and capping with cement...but spray foam sound cheaper and easier! Nice video!
Are you running a line of foam at the bottom of the foam sheet as well? IF so, to you need to prop it up at all to create space on the bottom of the sheet?
Would you want to glue foam board before you put it up, I've seen some with foil on it, would that be better?
Are you supposed to wear a mask goggles and gloves when working with the fiberglass??
I obviously didn't. HOWEVER I probably should have. lol
Do you see a problem with just pushing some 2 inch foam board and leaving the batt in the joist ? I have removed some batt's and put in 2 inch foam board and seal around it with great stuff but I wonder if I can just board over the batt and seal. Thanks
So you've created a vapor barrier on the inside of the rim joist. Will the rim joist be able to release moisture to the outside when it gets wet?
They shouldn't be getting wet in the first place. If the rim joists are wet that's a whole other issue. The barrier helps that from starting with the humidity and moister from inside.
@@dpoutdoors4702 There's a possibility that they could get wet from a leak or an accident. Moisture will also wick up through the foundation, especially when it rains.
@@martyapo Water and moister will be able to get anywhere eventually. However I an not about to leave my whole house un insulated for fear of an accident. Again rain shouldn't make your rim joist wet or moist. That's like someone not putting insulation in their attic because. "if it rains moister could wick through." condensation from cold air outside and warm are inside or vice versa is the number one cause of moisture/dampness in rim joist. This barrier eliminates that. Yes water can still get in if you have a foundational issue, but like I said above that's a whole other issue.
@@dpoutdoors4702 I appreciate you taking your time to respond in detail. I'm still investigating this process and trying to understand what's best for my situation. It's often easy to "not see the forest for the trees" and get caught up in the minutia. There doesn't seem to be a perfect system out there and everything is a trade off, you either have an airtight house with the problem of moisture getting trapped or a house that breathes the moisture but poorer insulation value. Like my dad always said, "there are no easy horses" and "no free lunches". Thank you again and best wishes.
@@martyapo No problem! Since it's a non perfect world, you're right, there isn't a 100% fool proof way. if you are worried about the moisture and wicking capabilities. You may want to look into using EPS board instead. it lets moisture through, while still giving you extra protection. I work in the trade industry and would strongly suggest something other than just fiberglass though. "no easy horses" and 'no free lunches" I may have to start using that one! good luck! and same to you!!!
Nice vest
what is the fire code around this method. The rigid foam is not code fire rated but does the batting overcome the problem?
hey man....Are you single? Asking for a friend. Great video by the way. very straightforward!
I am not sure why you cut the insulation the way u did?? It appeared you added an extra step... The rim cavity is typically 14.5 inches wide(same as your wall) which is why the insulation roll is 14.5 wide.. Just unroll and cut them to the appropriate height - - you mentioned yours is 7.25 to 7.5... Cut the pink fiberglass to roughly 8 inches and insert in opening.
That would half been a smarter way for 2 sides on the basement and would have saved a lot of time! lol The right and left sides I still would have had to cut the way I did unfortunately due to the openings being different sizes. Wish I would have thought about the cutting to height in all the openings I could have though! ugh
@@dpoutdoors4702 It's OK my friend, no ugh necessary! -- Now you know!
I'm 68 yrs old and with age you do acquire (edit - some) knowledge...
😁
Lol rim jobs!
You want the vapor barrier, in this case the foam, to be on the warm side. So you want the fiber glass (unfaced) in the cavity then the foam board.