Hey Dude, to reverse the spinning of the stepper motor its easier to change 2 of the wires either on the left or right, doesnt matter. think its bether to do this instead damaging the connector. Depending ob the electronics its also possible to reverse the motor in the firmware settings - if running klipper its an easy task. I am a lot delayed with my upgrade although I have the party laying arount for some while 😀Ty for your detailes videos they have helped me a lot and by ther way sorry for my bad englis spelling and grammar
not wanting to wait on more bearings to arrive from amazon, i decided to be resourceful and use the stock idler bearing pieces that the tensioners replaced. cut one side off the front y bracket so that it was flat, bolted to rear of y (home) and used the single sided piece that has the captive nut welded in, at an angle on the front of the y axis and reused the stock bearings. works great!
Your z axis should fall if unsupported. Also when you added the z supports, you could have brought the linear rails further out of alignment. These little issues add up quickly, putting too much load on the stepper driver. Perhaps a video on fine adjustment while waiting for your new board? Most people will get more accurate centering with printed blocks than with calipers. X miss alignment is nicely compensated by bed leveling. Y skews the print, z binds. Over all good attention to detail. I like your y axis stabilization. You might want to look at silicone bed springs much less re adjustment needed. The sprite hotend is also a great upgrade.
it's great to see the different ways each one of us go at upgrading our ender3s, there's so much out there, each one is unique. amazing. by the way, at 9:55 I think I saw some slip of the Y axis linear rail, you pay so much attention to squaring and precision, would be a shame to have that kind of play in a part to ruin a print.
Wow i didn't notice it. Thanks for pointing it out. Turns out some of the T nuts had not rotated in the slots. Went back and tightened them up. That would've left me scratching my head for a couple of hours had I started printing on it.
Don't you think those belts are too tight? I can see the belt teeth deform to almost flat on the roller bearings, and also the stepper motors being noisy. I did my belts the same way when I first got my ender 3 v2. Snapped the y axis belt after a month, and the x axis after 2 months, both snapped right on the carriage mounting points. Now I tension my belts just enough to remove any visible slack, but loose enough that I could fit my finger between the belt and the extrusion comfortably. The difference I notice in terms of print quality is that the x and y dimensions are now the same when printing cubes, where as in the previous config I'm getting slightly larger x dimensions(about 0.15mm). Maybe due to the belt teeth deformation? IDK.
Hm just a quick Question in The Video at 4:43 you can see that there is a gap between the carraiage and flange means the flange sits not flat on the wagon? Is this intended? I have the problem, that its not easy to fasten these 4 screws??
@@bluemonxterDIY Hm well maybe I was not clear at all :-D - Imean the 2 plates holding the Y-Motor and The extruder. I have had troubles to mount them flash on top of the rails wagon because the edge of the linear rail carriage ist sharp 90° and the bended Metalplates hav an inner radius because of the bending this is what I am concerned about. In my case the two verstical 20x40 Rails were no longer paralell to each other they are 90° to the base but in fache of each other rhe one on the extruder site is slightly rotated - not shure if this may cause some trouble later on. Hm I am almost finishes and I will see when I do a Testprint maybe a cross with 90° then I will se if the x-y alignment is not orthogonal. I write a short notice when I am done how it was going :-D
I was wondering this too, or I assume this is making the motor direction opposite, so maybe you could flip the motor 180 degrees and mount it that way?
The quality and attention to detail in your videos keep me coming back for more! More 3D printer mod videos please!
Thanks. Many more planned ahead
Hey Dude,
to reverse the spinning of the stepper motor its easier to change 2 of the wires either on the left or right, doesnt matter. think its bether to do this instead damaging the connector. Depending ob the electronics its also possible to reverse the motor in the firmware settings - if running klipper its an easy task. I am a lot delayed with my upgrade although I have the party laying arount for some while 😀Ty for your detailes videos they have helped me a lot and by ther way sorry for my bad englis spelling and grammar
not wanting to wait on more bearings to arrive from amazon, i decided to be resourceful and use the stock idler bearing pieces that the tensioners replaced. cut one side off the front y bracket so that it was flat, bolted to rear of y (home) and used the single sided piece that has the captive nut welded in, at an angle on the front of the y axis and reused the stock bearings. works great!
Z belted mod would make it even more kickass !!!
Your z axis should fall if unsupported. Also when you added the z supports, you could have brought the linear rails further out of alignment. These little issues add up quickly, putting too much load on the stepper driver. Perhaps a video on fine adjustment while waiting for your new board?
Most people will get more accurate centering with printed blocks than with calipers. X miss alignment is nicely compensated by bed leveling. Y skews the print, z binds.
Over all good attention to detail. I like your y axis stabilization. You might want to look at silicone bed springs much less re adjustment needed. The sprite hotend is also a great upgrade.
Definitely doing this on mine soon. Thanks so much!
i really like your video and your scientific approac!
it's great to see the different ways each one of us go at upgrading our ender3s, there's so much out there, each one is unique. amazing. by the way, at 9:55 I think I saw some slip of the Y axis linear rail, you pay so much attention to squaring and precision, would be a shame to have that kind of play in a part to ruin a print.
Wow i didn't notice it. Thanks for pointing it out. Turns out some of the T nuts had not rotated in the slots. Went back and tightened them up. That would've left me scratching my head for a couple of hours had I started printing on it.
You should make it 2 alloy profiles with 2 rails and 4 blocks.
Then mod on a carbon fiber carriage as tiny as possible. More lightweight :)
@9:47 your X axis belt is rubbing on the extrusion.
Don't you think those belts are too tight? I can see the belt teeth deform to almost flat on the roller bearings, and also the stepper motors being noisy. I did my belts the same way when I first got my ender 3 v2. Snapped the y axis belt after a month, and the x axis after 2 months, both snapped right on the carriage mounting points. Now I tension my belts just enough to remove any visible slack, but loose enough that I could fit my finger between the belt and the extrusion comfortably. The difference I notice in terms of print quality is that the x and y dimensions are now the same when printing cubes, where as in the previous config I'm getting slightly larger x dimensions(about 0.15mm). Maybe due to the belt teeth deformation? IDK.
Hm just a quick Question in The Video at 4:43 you can see that there is a gap between the carraiage and flange means the flange sits not flat on the wagon? Is this intended? I have the problem, that its not easy to fasten these 4 screws??
Hi, sorry I don't get your question. Are you talking about the y axis aluminum plate mounting on top of the linear rail carriage?
@@bluemonxterDIY Hm well maybe I was not clear at all :-D - Imean the 2 plates holding the Y-Motor and The extruder. I have had troubles to mount them flash on top of the rails wagon because the edge of the linear rail carriage ist sharp 90° and the bended Metalplates hav an inner radius because of the bending this is what I am concerned about. In my case the two verstical 20x40 Rails were no longer paralell to each other they are 90° to the base but in fache of each other rhe one on the extruder site is slightly rotated - not shure if this may cause some trouble later on. Hm I am almost finishes and I will see when I do a Testprint maybe a cross with 90° then I will se if the x-y alignment is not orthogonal. I write a short notice when I am done how it was going :-D
Where did you get the braces
Can't find this model of bearing. Could you please give another suitable example? From AliExpress for example
Could you give me a link for the bearings on Y belt tensioner ?
What kind of saw you used on the dremel to cut the metal?
I used the basic cut off wheel & diamond burrs.
cut the connectors on the stepper? Why not just remove the connectors in the bracket and rearrange them... a small screwdriver can get them out easily
I was wondering this too, or I assume this is making the motor direction opposite, so maybe you could flip the motor 180 degrees and mount it that way?
@@MantisRay861 Well just change 2 of the wires will reverse the motor
10:36 you could've just swapped the corner brackets around. lmao.
You REALLY sound like Nerrel.
Yeah I just double checked, you are him.