Great project Lee, very interesting to me as I could use one of those, as well as make some changes to the vise on my table top lathe when set for milling. I like your milling stop post, and will have to check if you made a vid of it's bull. Enjoyed, cheers!
One thing I have learned when reaming, if you use a very light lubricant as opposed to normal cutting oil you will get a slightly tighter hole with the lighter lubricant, not entirely sure why, but it works for me
hello lee this old tony once said if and when you use a reamer never use oil. if you use oil to ream it will be oversize. so what he said to ream with is water soluable coolant. ive never tried this to conferm but just thought i would mention this.
Next video, grind counter bore drill guides to size. I have metric and sae sized counter bore sets, yours may be mislabeled. Spindexer under power with table extension in use.
Or just chuck it up in the lathe, which was my first thought on this. No way would I put up with that thing being oversize with all that machinery at my disposal!
I'm not sure the oversize pilot is a function of the tools being imports. A lot of single piece counterbores for socket head cap screws assume the through hole is clearance size of the screw and not body size. That being said some think that clearance size is +1/64th" while others think +1/32".
If it really bothered one, it would be a simple task to chuck the counter bore in a collet, and mount a small toolpost grinder or demel and take the pilot down a few thou, just as a suggestion.
What I am not sure about is how you can guarantee the surface grinding as a means of making surfaces exactly perpendicular to each other. Or did I miss something in part one?
Excellent Vise that I need to add to my to-do list. I looked for your previous Video on the V Block you show at 30:46 but couldnt find it. Do you have a link for those, they look like an indispensable and necessary addition to my to-do list. TIA.
Mike McDonough My bad, I didn’t video making the V Block. Sometimes my memory gets confused. 😀 Guess I’ll have to video making the matching pair for this vise. Stay tuned.
hello. on my channel ive told my viewers; 1 ream slow. 2 use lots of oil/coolent. 3dont stop the reamer in the hole! 4dont run reamer backwards. i also said "go in slow, come back out slow. poppy's workshop says HI
Any particular reason to use a wonky counter bore drill when you could have just used a end mill to do the counter bore?? In this case, a tad oversize (depending on the endmill) is not going to make any difference, other than maybe consmetics John
Great build. That will be as handy as a third hand. I am going to keep this in mind for a future project.
That's a really handy tool. It works well.
I am continually amazed. I can see another USEFUL project for my PM 727v. Thank you,
That looks like a very handy vise. Enjoyed the video and look forward to seeing that vise in action.
That turned out well, I am interested in seeing how secure it holds.
You should relieve first couple threads on pusher bolt incase you get mushrooming so you don't mess up threads great project!
Great job, good addition to anyone's shop Think I will make one
That is a very useful vise. Well done, as always.
Your use of the reamer was perfect say for one thing, they need to run at a slow rpm somewhere about half the speed of the drill..... awesome project,
Hi Lee,
I like the design of the vice you are building...
Take care
Paul,,
Very nice work. We posted this video (and part 1) on our homemade tools forum this week :)
I enjoy every one of your videos! Looks to be a nice addition to your tooling inventory. I may have to do the same for my PM-727.
you might want to grind 3-5 thousands off of the bottom of the movable jaw for clearance so it doen's bind when you tighten the solid part.
Great project Lee, very interesting to me as I could use one of those, as well as make some changes to the vise on my table top lathe when set for milling. I like your milling stop post, and will have to check if you made a vid of it's bull. Enjoyed, cheers!
Good job!
Hey Lee, really enjoy your videos! Gene Lanier (Dad) told me about them. Wish I had your shop. :)
The shop was my retirement gift to myself. Good to hear from you and glad you're enjoying the channel.
One thing I have learned when reaming, if you use a very light lubricant as opposed to normal cutting oil you will get a slightly tighter hole with the lighter lubricant, not entirely sure why, but it works for me
hello lee this old tony once said if and when you use a reamer never use oil. if you use oil to ream it will be oversize. so what he said to ream with is water soluable coolant. ive never tried this to conferm but just thought i would mention this.
Next video, grind counter bore drill guides to size. I have metric and sae sized counter bore sets, yours may be mislabeled. Spindexer under power with table extension in use.
Thanks for sharing
Nice build - Since you've got a grinder, I'd take that counter bore down to the "right" size!
Or just chuck it up in the lathe, which was my first thought on this. No way would I put up with that thing being oversize with all that machinery at my disposal!
Will that holding not bend a table in a minimill? I did some clamping in a similiar way and as I remember it the X leadscrew got jamed.
I'm not sure the oversize pilot is a function of the tools being imports. A lot of single piece counterbores for socket head cap screws assume the through hole is clearance size of the screw and not body size. That being said some think that clearance size is +1/64th" while others think +1/32".
If it really bothered one, it would be a simple task to chuck the counter bore in a collet, and mount a small toolpost grinder or demel and take the pilot down a few thou, just as a suggestion.
Could you do a video on cylinder grinding the counter bore pilot to size?
What I am not sure about is how you can guarantee the surface grinding as a means of making surfaces exactly perpendicular to each other. Or did I miss something in part one?
I would be inclined to run the reamer much slower than drilling speed!
Stavros
That was interesting, what more is coming?
why did't you use the tall jaws to keep the 2 pcs together?
I missed the part where you heat treated the vice.
You did heat treat it, right?
Excellent Vise that I need to add to my to-do list. I looked for your previous Video on the V Block you show at 30:46 but couldnt find it. Do you have a link for those, they look like an indispensable and necessary addition to my to-do list. TIA.
Mike McDonough My bad, I didn’t video making the V Block. Sometimes my memory gets confused. 😀 Guess I’ll have to video making the matching pair for this vise. Stay tuned.
@@MrPragmaticLee Ah, explains why I couldn't find it, lol Being 70 myself I understand Completely. Thanks for the Reply and I will keep watching.
Hi Mike my name is Paul McDonagh
hello. on my channel ive told my viewers; 1 ream slow. 2 use lots of oil/coolent. 3dont stop the reamer in the hole! 4dont run reamer backwards. i also said "go in slow, come back out slow. poppy's workshop says HI
Went and bought steel to build one.
You might want to watch TOT CHEERS.
Any particular reason to use a wonky counter bore drill when you could have just used a end mill to do the counter bore?? In this case, a tad oversize (depending on the endmill) is not going to make any difference, other than maybe consmetics
John
cause he can, thats why. Stop asking stupid question
sell them on ebay for h f mini mill, you couldnt make em quick enough.
you were running that reamer too fasttt