Beautiful chassis and design. People complaining about it probably don't really understand what it is designed for. It compares nicely to the Fifth Dimension competition 1/10th chassis that I run.
Yup, theres never going to be a chassis that works for everyone but thats what makes it fun, we just keep coming up with more options so people can make it their own😁.
For being LCG chassis, the shocks aren't mounted in the original height position. This causes the CG to be raised since mounting on the chassis rails creates excessive articulation. Laying the shocks down is not the best method to achieve lcg performance. Also running the battery in the back hinders performance by adding rear weight. Shouldn't have to always buy brass upgrade parts to get a rig to perform well. Both carbon options are unfortunately still heavier than most options already available. Thanks and hope to see something different next year!
Good points if looking at using stock chassis rails and drilling that one. As for this, well, its completely different. For one, it doesnt just "tilt" shocks as it actually follows a more functional arc that actually provides better articulation while still allowing for lower chassis height. Not only that but different shock lengths can be used giving much more options for user. Raising shock location with the front facing motor also cause link/driveshaft contact so it is not even a good idea when using deadbolt link lengths which this uses. Which brings us to weight distribution. Using deadbolt links allows for trans to move forward and motor to move right behind servo giving best possible front weight considering Komodo is heaviest motor out there for crawling. On to the battery, well as you can see the battery trey has been lowered to lowest possible position with no link contact and driveshaft interference giving us best possible cog. As for making rear heavier also consider that no self respecting competitive crawler would use a large battery on their rig and more than likely use a 250-300mah battery right behind trans. I understand for someone looking at the video it may seem like a simple design but much time and testing has gone into making it function properly and thats why I feel confident it will outperform most others out there. As for being heavier, that is entirely incorrect as those others do not factor in battery trey weight which this one does. Remove the trey and we are looking at sub 8g chassis. If you cannot be competitive with a 8g chassis and still require a 6-7g one then I dont really think the chassis is the issue🤷🏻♂️. As for next year, well yeah, we can always bring more stuff out👍. By the way, if you really want light chassis you nay want to take a look as my bouncer chassis which are even lighter☺️. Now, dont take this the wrong way, I do want people to take the chassis out and do comparisons to see how well it does but also feel it is necessary to reply to comments like yours because honestly everyone learns from constructive criticism and those reading here can see the reasons why you may feel one way and me the other. Its all part if the hobby and what keeps it going forward👍.
got one of the first runs, great chassis enjoying it, very capable. Only complaints are the plastic used for the roof is junk, broke on install, luckily the white one is a better design plastic and was included. Other bummer the tegu esc in the case does not fit under the lid, but o well i guess thats what the lizard pro is for now. Great work for the minis can't wait to see all the cool things.
Awesome👍. Im glad you liked. By the way, they do share the stl for the roof if you want to print another one in whatever material. I usually use a small battery behind trans and esc behind that.
I really like my scythe chassis! It well built, it good and performs very well but the little tabs that hold the roof down broke off and there's no way to get a new roof without buying another kit,is there any chance you will be making modified versions with roof scoops or visors or some other options for replacement roofs available for sale or purchase from somewhere like shapeways
Im working with Furitek to add all parts separately on site right now. The chassis is the "base model" and we plan on adding parts to make it your own.. Also, contact Furitek directly, they may be able to help you out with broken part as well👍.
Doh! I was hoping for a carbon one but just placed order for the aluminum one a couple days ago! I was planning on making my own custom carbon tray for it. I think they both look awesome as a stand alone chassis myself and will run it without the scale body. I may trim back the extraneous length or maybe not. I was planning to run the electrics on 2s directly from the battery. I may use the stock rx. Does it handle 2s power? What other rx's bind to the stock radio? Spektrum? I am not impressed w the available surface radios for crawlers. Even the Futaba programming is not how I would set up my radio but I'm coming from OTX. I like the noble 4 w the dial in the back near thumb for all time rear steer but may just use my Taranis and four sticks in the future. For now I'll stick w front steer only and skip the MOA. This small scale it gets chunky fast w the extra mods.
Dont feel bad, once tou receive the aluminum chassis you will realize its much nicer in person that any picture can show. As for stock receiver, yes they can handle 2s. Furitek is working on their own receiver/transmitter option but theres also many othe options out there like the Flysky GT5 which works amazing and is very affordable.
I meant to ask you... Will the stock motor or the moforc nano beast motor and box fit in the scythe chassis? I don't think it is ugly at all. Kinda dig the hood scoop kinda thing for the big motor option! When a design is refined to the most simple and highest performance they most often are beautiful! Form follows function!
The chassis is designed to fit the Komodo and stock motors as well as othe motors using center mounted design. As far as the Mofo motor goes im not sure as I have not tested one so hard to say🤔🤷🏻♂️.
The only thing different is the links. The chassis was designed around Deadbolt links but honestly you can use any link combination to make it perform exactly how you want it to👍.
Its designed around Deadbolt links but you could customize to match your driving style. With Jeep links the "tail" would stick out back a bit too much in my opinion though🤔.
Most receiver Ive used have a specific channel marked for it. I cant tell you with 100% certainty that any channel would work as I have accidentally plugged in wrong channel before with no issues but maybe someone else may be able to answer that better. Lets leave message here to see if anyone knows better👍. Id check the specs on receiver your using anyway just to be sure.
Beautiful chassis and design. People complaining about it probably don't really understand what it is designed for. It compares nicely to the Fifth Dimension competition 1/10th chassis that I run.
Thanks👍. It deffinetly not for everyone but for those that do get it theres a lot of fun to be had😁.
BADASS!
Sweet .hello from V&b speed a new rc community channel ✌
Not a big fan of the scythe but those new rails tho in the dead bolt.. I can dig that one for sure.
Yup, theres never going to be a chassis that works for everyone but thats what makes it fun, we just keep coming up with more options so people can make it their own😁.
For being LCG chassis, the shocks aren't mounted in the original height position. This causes the CG to be raised since mounting on the chassis rails creates excessive articulation. Laying the shocks down is not the best method to achieve lcg performance. Also running the battery in the back hinders performance by adding rear weight. Shouldn't have to always buy brass upgrade parts to get a rig to perform well. Both carbon options are unfortunately still heavier than most options already available. Thanks and hope to see something different next year!
Good points if looking at using stock chassis rails and drilling that one. As for this, well, its completely different. For one, it doesnt just "tilt" shocks as it actually follows a more functional arc that actually provides better articulation while still allowing for lower chassis height. Not only that but different shock lengths can be used giving much more options for user. Raising shock location with the front facing motor also cause link/driveshaft contact so it is not even a good idea when using deadbolt link lengths which this uses. Which brings us to weight distribution. Using deadbolt links allows for trans to move forward and motor to move right behind servo giving best possible front weight considering Komodo is heaviest motor out there for crawling. On to the battery, well as you can see the battery trey has been lowered to lowest possible position with no link contact and driveshaft interference giving us best possible cog. As for making rear heavier also consider that no self respecting competitive crawler would use a large battery on their rig and more than likely use a 250-300mah battery right behind trans. I understand for someone looking at the video it may seem like a simple design but much time and testing has gone into making it function properly and thats why I feel confident it will outperform most others out there. As for being heavier, that is entirely incorrect as those others do not factor in battery trey weight which this one does. Remove the trey and we are looking at sub 8g chassis. If you cannot be competitive with a 8g chassis and still require a 6-7g one then I dont really think the chassis is the issue🤷🏻♂️. As for next year, well yeah, we can always bring more stuff out👍. By the way, if you really want light chassis you nay want to take a look as my bouncer chassis which are even lighter☺️. Now, dont take this the wrong way, I do want people to take the chassis out and do comparisons to see how well it does but also feel it is necessary to reply to comments like yours because honestly everyone learns from constructive criticism and those reading here can see the reasons why you may feel one way and me the other. Its all part if the hobby and what keeps it going forward👍.
Great video 🤩👍
got one of the first runs, great chassis enjoying it, very capable. Only complaints are the plastic used for the roof is junk, broke on install, luckily the white one is a better design plastic and was included. Other bummer the tegu esc in the case does not fit under the lid, but o well i guess thats what the lizard pro is for now. Great work for the minis can't wait to see all the cool things.
Awesome👍. Im glad you liked. By the way, they do share the stl for the roof if you want to print another one in whatever material. I usually use a small battery behind trans and esc behind that.
@@Gamyrc rad, ill give that a try! Looking forward to dialing it in, trying a small 3s with the lizard pro, should be mint.
Great info thanks!!!
I really like my scythe chassis! It well built, it good and performs very well but the little tabs that hold the roof down broke off and there's no way to get a new roof without buying another kit,is there any chance you will be making modified versions with roof scoops or visors or some other options for replacement roofs available for sale or purchase from somewhere like shapeways
Im working with Furitek to add all parts separately on site right now. The chassis is the "base model" and we plan on adding parts to make it your own.. Also, contact Furitek directly, they may be able to help you out with broken part as well👍.
So sweet build ❤️🔥 what type of servo is that
Doh! I was hoping for a carbon one but just placed order for the aluminum one a couple days ago! I was planning on making my own custom carbon tray for it. I think they both look awesome as a stand alone chassis myself and will run it without the scale body. I may trim back the extraneous length or maybe not.
I was planning to run the electrics on 2s directly from the battery. I may use the stock rx. Does it handle 2s power? What other rx's bind to the stock radio? Spektrum?
I am not impressed w the available surface radios for crawlers. Even the Futaba programming is not how I would set up my radio but I'm coming from OTX. I like the noble 4 w the dial in the back near thumb for all time rear steer but may just use my Taranis and four sticks in the future. For now I'll stick w front steer only and skip the MOA. This small scale it gets chunky fast w the extra mods.
Dont feel bad, once tou receive the aluminum chassis you will realize its much nicer in person that any picture can show. As for stock receiver, yes they can handle 2s. Furitek is working on their own receiver/transmitter option but theres also many othe options out there like the Flysky GT5 which works amazing and is very affordable.
I meant to ask you... Will the stock motor or the moforc nano beast motor and box fit in the scythe chassis?
I don't think it is ugly at all. Kinda dig the hood scoop kinda thing for the big motor option! When a design is refined to the most simple and highest performance they most often are beautiful! Form follows function!
The chassis is designed to fit the Komodo and stock motors as well as othe motors using center mounted design. As far as the Mofo motor goes im not sure as I have not tested one so hard to say🤔🤷🏻♂️.
Just ordered the rails but now wondering if I can use them with my C10?
The only thing different is the links. The chassis was designed around Deadbolt links but honestly you can use any link combination to make it perform exactly how you want it to👍.
@@Gamyrc thanks! I’ll give it a go 👍
Can you share the thingiverse files for dual upper links in the front ? Just ordered this today :)
Can you make your basher rocksta chassis 3d printable and sell the files?
Sadly I dont do that anymore. Too many people took advantage of it and started selling my files and well you know how that goes😒.
@@Gamyrc Dang that sucks its all good I guess that just means I'm gonna have to buy it lol.
will this chassis work with the jeep rubicon scx24 and is this carbon fiber chassis better than the aluminum one?
Its designed around Deadbolt links but you could customize to match your driving style. With Jeep links the "tail" would stick out back a bit too much in my opinion though🤔.
Does it matter where you plug the power into your receiver or is there a specific channel you have to plug it into?
Most receiver Ive used have a specific channel marked for it. I cant tell you with 100% certainty that any channel would work as I have accidentally plugged in wrong channel before with no issues but maybe someone else may be able to answer that better. Lets leave message here to see if anyone knows better👍. Id check the specs on receiver your using anyway just to be sure.
When do go they on the website?
If everything goes as planned sometime this week👍.
do you have pricing yet? What website?
Furitek website hopefully this week. Pricing Im not sure yet🤔. Ill let you know once they give me final numbers👍.