Want to make your tig welds smaller? Do it the proper way.
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- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2024
- 💎💎💎Take a FREE online Tig class on my website HERE👉 www.pacificarctigwelding.com/
I had a great question from someone on my IG asking "how do I make my tig welding passes smaller and tighter?" GREAT QUESTION. First off, I'll tell you it's definitely not as simple as just turning the heat down. Jump in and hang out with me for this week's episode, and I'll run a few and show you how I go about doing these🔥
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💎💎💎Take a FREE online Tig class on my website HERE👉 www.pacificarctigwelding.com/
Thank you so much for watching🔥Check out the episode I mentioned HERE🔥 ruclips.net/video/4bzItffjq0c/видео.html
The best tip I ever got when starting out was to use a filler rod the same size or smaller when welding sheet metal. If you go too big, you will put too much heat on your base metal before you get your rod to melt.
You can always cut some pieces of mig wire that is .023 or .030 and use it for your filler wire. That gives you an even smaller weld filler that works great especially for show quality stainless work.
Dusty thank you for all the knowledge you give out and positivity love every single context video it definitely helps me become a better welder and a better person 👍🏽👍🏽🔥🔥
Love your work on IG and now getting to see it "live" and in action is awesome!
as someone who started welding over a year ago full time, this is very good info to know, i have kinda figured that out overtime, but i will definetly be trying that double tap technique!
Im a month into tig welding and so far iv been double tappin all day and it has been helpin. Thanks for the vids
I have Tig and mig welder for 15years and you always teach me something new
Great Content Dusty. Just started Tig welding. You supply plenty of good tips and put a lot of effort producing the videos so its easy for us to watch. Thank you
Thank you so much don! I appreciate you watching and happy to help 🪙
@@PacificArcTigWelding hi there, hopefully you can advise me . What Tig welding material do I need to get , to weld an automotive gearbox , do they have more magnesium than alloy or visa versa... I've tried just pure alloy but it won't take .. thanks in advance.
Thanks for the tips mate... always enjoy the videos!
Dude! Sooo timely. Always learning…
Thanks for the video. I have had a TIG welder for over a year and have only used it one time just to play with it. I have to install a new power (220) line so I can get full potential of my machine. It is a Everlast 210 EXT. Every time I watch one of your videos, I get motivated to run my power line. Thank again.
🪙🪙🪙 Thanks! I never thought about a double tap. I am heading to the shop to try it!
Have you ever tried teaching your kid how to weld? That would be awesome! Your content is great
👍 Sharp video that really shows the double tap technique. Very nice
Game changing technique. Ive been in the fabrication field with some great welders. I go out of my way to see other techniques. I have yet to see this one. Great video. It always pays to be a student.
Every day is a school day.
Great stuff Dusty!!
always good watching a second and third time.....best wishes Dusty, cheers from Florida....Paul
Nice post work! The cam footage is Fabbulous!
I guess I'm 2 steps behind this. I'm having a problem with getting full pen without over heating and making gray welds. I think my biggest issue is not holding the arc tight enough, but whatever nice video I'm going to try to apply what you are talking about in this video, and I'm sure its going to help. thanks
I'm going to try this right away 👍🏻
Double dime, thanks for the info. Checking out your reference video now.
Thanks for the Videos they help out great!
I'd be interested to see you do a video with thinner metals like this in regards to double tap vs more frequent taps. Like instead of 8 dimes per inch with double tap 16 per inch with just tapping more often. I'm not consistent enough to see which is actually better but I've done better with the more taps method.
Thanks Dusty, on my way out to do a random act of kindness......cheers, Paul
Great video Dusty. 🪙🪙
Hey Dusty, you do the best Videos about Tig Welding on RUclips
If you mean thickness, then you turn the head to thick part, preheat it and manipulate the puddle to flow into the thinner part. Molten weld puddle is a liquid and it behaves like one, think surface tension - You jiggle the head and puddles will fuse. "Cold shoe" on thin part would also help, by taking away much heat, so the thin part would behave closer to the thick. Using cold shoes all the time welding copper, about 1/2" or 12mm to each side of the seam, keeps heat softened area much narrower. I have learned to weld with the flame welder, decades ago, mostly copper, some Aluminum, then analog transformer TIG, and finally new digital. Old was good for copper, but the new one just kills it on aluminum, because now you can regulate the amount of heat going to seam and up to electrode, to clean Al oxide instantly forming on seam. Just go new Chrystal 2 helmet, as the name says it's almost completely clear. Need to learn not to lift it up anymore. If you are a serious welder, give it a try. Paid 370€ or around 400$. If you're beginner, keep focus on your shoulders, as you will tend to raise them, to "lock" the position. I got some serious cramps at the back when starting. Now, when I teach, I stand behind the apprentice and hit his shoulders down. Takes a while, but fatigue is much less. Still, I do not claim to be THE welder, because there is still a lot a don't know. They get paid well, but it's a HARD earned money. I do know several trades well enough: manual lathe, mill, press brake, manual spinning, tin work, copper forming, custom jig, machines, tools and process design......Just bought GoPro, gonna make video on making the wood mandrel and spin copper on it.
Another great informative video, thank you.
Thank you so much for watching Andy, I appreciate you very much🙏
Beautiful, thanks.
Best channel ever
starting school on the 7th. can't wait.
Thanks again Dusty
Poor Dusty can't catch a break, that was a good blooper. Jw you go get more chips lol.
Hello dusty, Good vids! Hope you would post vids about tacking! Cheers!
I would love to see more videos on passing cwb tests and how to know you are getting proper penetration. Things like speed, amperage visual cues etc.
Another great vid.
Yes thank you, god bless you for all you do to teach us. What we should be doing. But wait, there is no more chips. Oh.... I cant concentrate now.....😂
🪙 great video and tips, thank you!
Lucky guy! She loves you :D
Great info... Great video... Thank you for sharing...
Thank you so much for watching, I appreciate it🙏
@@PacificArcTigWelding Absolutely, I think your form of artwork is stunning... I wish I were able to afford a piece for my wall... It would be the center piece for sure... So thank you for what you do...
Hello from England! Are you using a tapered tungsten with aluminium? I must say, that for a fairly young fella, you are a bloody good TiG welder!
For 1/16th SS, I use 1/16 tungsten and .045 rod. As a rule of thumb, I always use a smaller diameter filler rod than the base metal. I want the filler to melt quicker than the base. This rule is also true for stick. Don't weld 3/32 base metal with a 1/8 stick. Also, I try to avoid tungsten diameters larger than base thickness.
I'm fairly new to welding but I haven't been able to tell a difference between different tungsten diameters, what's the benefit of using a skinnier tungsten?
@@NNFaNRacing The first benefit is smaller tungsten requires less start amperage, useful for thinner metal so as to not blow holes during arc start. Second is, tungsten glows orange hot and radiates that heat. Smaller tungsten equals less collateral heat transfer that is not arc specific heat. Also, the torch and cup stays cooler longer, you can wear thinner gloves, etc. I always use the smallest tungsten that can handle the required amperage for the weld. I work in an aluminum and stainless fab and weld shop and use strictly Diamond Ground Products Tri-Mix tungsten with the turquoise band for everything. I use 1/16, 3/32, 1/8, and 5/32. With each diameter, I found the max amperage by turning up the A/C amps until I see the end of the tungsten begin to wobble and distort, then record that amp number for that welder. Inverter machines will put more amperage down before tungsten wobble than transformer machines. Example: Lincoln Precision Tig 375 transformer will wobble a 5/32 at about 260 amp. Everlast EXT 350 inverter is closer to 290 amp.
Tarheel Alumunum. Facebook or online.
For me, the first thing I had to fix was my arc length. Gotta keep it really short to make small fillets, esp on stainless. Speaking of which, you don't seem to address back shielding much (did I miss it?) either with gas coverage or Solar Flux. This is pretty important in the real world, where stainless applications need to remain stainless.
Yup, completely agree with you. Obviously this guy has not learned any theory about tig welding. To get a smaller weld you need a smaller tungsten(depending on amps), tungsten sharpening angle need to be close to 90degrees(this creates the tightest puddle with greatest penetration), and the most important your arc lenght has to decrease(to about .5 to 1mm). More proof that this guy doesnt know what he is talking about, is that he this there needs to be penetration in a T-type joint(this is wrong there should not be any weld on the other side of the t-joint, it only decreases the weld strenght). About shielding, this guy never does it. He had a video about welding titanium where he knew that it had to be welded in a 100% argon atmosphere, how ever he still did not provide that. and the result weld had cracks all over it and he just ignored it.
Dusty,were you dragging the cup in your demo? Thanks for the video🤗😎🤗😎
Another tip: buy spools of thick ER70S-6 MIG filler. It's _much_ cheaper than TIG rods and it's exactly the same thing and much thinner. Stick them in a drill chuck and twist multiple strands together to make any equivalent diameter you want at less than 1/2 the cost of buying TIG rods.
thanks for sharing .🪙
Dusty, thanks for the info, question. What size tungsten are you using?
My personal preference is to use .045 filler for this, but there's more then one way to get it done.
I work with a man who made a frame within a frame design element for a build we were doing whose welds were so fine that once the piece was powder coated the weld was almost invisible.
I think the key is like you said having the right sized filler rod. A lot of times you’re trying to lay a small bead but that puddle is just too small to to melt the usually 3/32” sized filler rod. So you end up using the torch which is not how you should melt your filler rod, you may have lack of penetration and I find I lose that consistency when I melt the rod with the torch.
I noticed myself melting 1/16 filler with the arc when welding 16 gauge stainless pie cuts around 47 amps. Or I have to use too much heat to get the pass made, which ends up in a big bead. Then needing 15 seconds or more of post flow which is absurd. I think I need .045 filler and should be running around 38 amps
@@michaelriccardi424 it depends how fast you can weld. In your case, I would definitely prefer .045 wire. (I buy 1 lb mig rolls because they are cheaper) You will probably need 42-45 amps.
@@russellmclaughlin8526 I twisted together some .023 stainless mig wire to make .046 and as soon as i dipped it, the filler popped real hard and flew out of my hand. I think it would of shocked me if I had no gloves. Not sure why that happened.
Fine filler and Double tap. Great tip thanks 🪙
Thank you so much 🙏I appreciate you watching🪙
Thanks, great video. What about "lay wire", is that useful on thin material and small welds?
Yes it is he sugared his back he burnt through lay wire with pulse
Hey man! Question so im tig welding some 14gauge SS tanks and the only problem I’ve been having is welding the tank together. The corner joints have been a nightmare and the only way I’ve been able to be successful is pulsing with no wire and using copper to absorb the heat. Any tips or something im doing wrong?? Would appreciate the help thank you! Love your page btw
I need to work on that thanks LARRYMOORE
Do you have any videos or tips about moving the filler rod while welding? I find it very hard to adjust it when its very small . I have to stop and sometimes I mess up after
Far as me making smaller welds I like using 045 wire and then doing the double tap
The biggest filler I keep in stock is 3/32" except for aluminum, all other filler is in smaller diameters. I have already cut some .028 off of my wire feed welder to use for TIG. 70S-6 wire is 70S-6
Now I want chips! :-) Too cute! Question though, what happens if you TiG without filler rod? Just guessing here but I'm thinking like a welded low spot from the materials flowing?
Depends on the thickness and metal. Sanitary stainless is done without filler. I can do a decent job on 20 ga stainless on an outside corner joint without filler. I think it also depends on the joint type. Not as good on a lap joint without filler, at least I am not.
@@silentpoet75 Thanks for the reply and information. I appreciate it!
I'm about to go try this on some 18 gauge.
update- its extremely difficult. I was using mild steel and seems like it wanted 60 amps before it would even tack. Then wide open at 48 amps it was still barely melting the metal. Not sure why
@@michaelriccardi424 maybe try tighter arc length. Just a small variation in the arc length can make a huge difference in the heat input on thin metal.
does this technic apply to aluminum as well?
Try and do that without taking the to edge. I have to do that at work alot. I like it because it was a challenge at first.
Will this work for thinner gauge material such as 18 gauge (1.2mm) mild steel? I'm working on a project that require Butt (Seam) and Lap welds. Some lap welds for my project need thin 18 gauge material to be lap welded to large stock so I'm wondering how tricky this will be to not burn material and still have a good, small welds.
im confused i saw a video that said lowering your amps doesnt reduce heat but here you reduce amps. they even showed a demonstration that higher amps less heat. this is the complete opposite so what gives?
Are those the Microtig gloves by Blue Demon on the table?
Defiant Metal actually! Absolutely love them. I appreciate you watching 🔥
Man don’t worry about getting interrupted by your child! It’s all good! Made me laugh!
0:45 Wow. That's burn through.
🪙🪙 thanks as always!
💰
🪙 enjoy watching ur channel great content
Just turn ur settings up a bit and weld with a faster travel speed
I actually want to make them bigger. Welding 0.8mm tubes (bike frames)
Здравствуй Дасти . Меня зовут Сергей.Я начинающий тиг сварщик . У меня есть проблема которая очень раздражает. Это то что я постоянно электродом ныряю в сварочную ванну. Какое упражнение ты мог бы посоветовать?
dimeeeeeeeeee
🪙🪙🪙🪙🪙
So you are using smaller filler are you using a smaller tungsten then?
forge.the filler rod and just fuse it
dime lol
Dime has been left.
🪙
smaller welds mean smaller puddles. sharp trode. careful with the pedal (like driving on ice) and practice practice practice.
I have the opposite problem - all my welds are super small, and no matter what I do, I can't make them larger than 1/8" tops. More amps.. nope. Larger filler... nope. I'm at a loss. If I start swirling the weld pool, of course I can make it large - but no one else seems to have to do that. Just add filler ... nope.. still 1/8"...... 140 amps, 3/32 filler - pedal to the metal ... 1/8 inch. Faster ... just gets smaller ... slower - over heats the metal. The actual weld pool is super small no matter what. I'm beginning to think this is all BS.
🪙 leaning something new every episode, love the channel.