So glad you put in the effort to make this video. Thanks to your easy method I dared to try repair a friend’s string bass. That saved the bass (and restored peace in a family where one of the sons had accidentally broken his father’s instrument ;). So much gained due to your help!
Really good info starting with the tool list. Two pieces of constructive criticism, though - 1) The lighting is very poor , making it impossible to see any detail at all. Strong back lighting (light streaming in through the window) ruins what little front lighting there is and contrast is almost nil 2) Why did you shoot the video from below? Virtually every procedure is invisible or blocked by your body, and there are no images at all of the actual neck joint. With the instructions stressing the "tight fit" it would be invaluable to actually show that joint line. It's still very helpful, but would be exponentially better with only three simple changes - the camera pointing down at the neck joint (and careful personal movement to avoid blocking the view), direct, reasonably bright lighting, and the window blinds closed. As is - with the exception of the tool images - it's essentially audio-only directions as so many assumptions have to be made. I really appreciate the effort and information - I just wish I could see what you're doing.
Can you describe setting or changing the neck angle if desired, at this point, to make for better play-ability of the instrument, - say, if the instrument is too tight, ie, too much tension on the stings. I have an American Standard that is a horse of a bass, and it appears to not be the original neck on it, and I'm wondering if it may have been set at too steep of an angle, making it stiff and hard to play. Thanks. Great video!
BluegrassRules101 Hi! Thanks for your question. Sure, you can adjust the forward and back pitck of the neck several ways. If you're not overly concerned about cosmetics, you can use shims at the front or back of the neck pocket. This is where having the instrument strung up is important. You have to make that decision when it's as close to playing conditions as possible. Decide the angle u want (action), create a spacer to simulate the angle, then based on that, make a wedged shape shim to compensate for that angle. Keep side to side pitch in mind along the way. the strings and and bridge placement will guide you. The other, better option is to recarve the heel to recreate a new pitch. Very difficult and exacting work depending on how much material has to be altered. Best left to a pro. Hope this helps. let me know if u run into a snag. I can do skype consults too. good luck! :)
+Bill Duris That's an excellent question and there are two reasons I use wood glue on the neck joint. I think both are appropriate here. I was trained under the supervision of violin maker, David Burgess back in the 80's at Shar Music in Ann Arbor. The neck joint was the only glue joint he would use tite-bond on. All others were hide glue. He believes this should be the strongest joint or words to that effect. The other reason is that it's a middle school instrument and prone to take a beating. With a good fit and a strong adhesive, it's less likely to come apart when it takes a fal lor some other calamity. Also, both hide and vinyl-based wood glues are heat/water soluble so removal is fairly simple. Thanks for asking and not blasting. :)
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So glad you put in the effort to make this video. Thanks to your easy method I dared to try repair a friend’s string bass. That saved the bass (and restored peace in a family where one of the sons had accidentally broken his father’s instrument ;). So much gained due to your help!
That's great! Glad it helped. 😊
glad for the confirmation! I might repair one soon!
Really good info starting with the tool list. Two pieces of constructive criticism, though -
1) The lighting is very poor , making it impossible to see any detail at all. Strong back lighting (light streaming in through the window) ruins what little front lighting there is and contrast is almost nil
2) Why did you shoot the video from below? Virtually every procedure is invisible or blocked by your body, and there are no images at all of the actual neck joint. With the instructions stressing the "tight fit" it would be invaluable to actually show that joint line.
It's still very helpful, but would be exponentially better with only three simple changes - the camera pointing down at the neck joint (and careful personal movement to avoid blocking the view), direct, reasonably bright lighting, and the window blinds closed. As is - with the exception of the tool images - it's essentially audio-only directions as so many assumptions have to be made.
I really appreciate the effort and information - I just wish I could see what you're doing.
there was some I could see in the mirror, so I just assumed that that was a clever way around a somehow inevitable camera angle [or a dirty floor]
How many times I've told myself the very same thing! Right you are on every point. I'll do another one someday. 😊@insertchannelname1223
Good call. I'll look for another opportunity. The camera was on a table.
Thanks!
Can you describe setting or changing the neck angle if desired, at this point, to make for better play-ability of the instrument, - say, if the instrument is too tight, ie, too much tension on the stings. I have an American Standard that is a horse of a bass, and it appears to not be the original neck on it, and I'm wondering if it may have been set at too steep of an angle, making it stiff and hard to play. Thanks. Great video!
BluegrassRules101 Hi! Thanks for your question. Sure, you can adjust the forward and back pitck of the neck several ways. If you're not overly concerned about cosmetics, you can use shims at the front or back of the neck pocket. This is where having the instrument strung up is important. You have to make that decision when it's as close to playing conditions as possible. Decide the angle u want (action), create a spacer to simulate the angle, then based on that, make a wedged shape shim to compensate for that angle. Keep side to side pitch in mind along the way. the strings and and bridge placement will guide you. The other, better option is to recarve the heel to recreate a new pitch. Very difficult and exacting work depending on how much material has to be altered. Best left to a pro. Hope this helps. let me know if u run into a snag. I can do skype consults too. good luck! :)
Is that yellow glue you used for the neck? Shouldn't one use hide glue?
+Bill Duris That's an excellent question and there are two reasons I use wood glue on the neck joint. I think both are appropriate here. I was trained under the supervision of violin maker, David Burgess back in the 80's at Shar Music in Ann Arbor. The neck joint was the only glue joint he would use tite-bond on. All others were hide glue. He believes this should be the strongest joint or words to that effect. The other reason is that it's a middle school instrument and prone to take a beating. With a good fit and a strong adhesive, it's less likely to come apart when it takes a fal lor some other calamity. Also, both hide and vinyl-based wood glues are heat/water soluble so removal is fairly simple. Thanks for asking and not blasting. :)
Good to know if I ever have to repair my own monster. Thanks!
Where’s part 1?
Thanks!