maccyoneTV Yeah, exactely, coming up in the next video. Thought a video with this combo (metal gears and the rest stock) could help others (to not try this combo alone). Got other problems later though again 🙂
I watched this video with Rob on his big screen last night. What a showcase for instructional and informational videos - so well shot and so clear and simple! This is how you do it! Pity the diff was locked, unintentionally! But better luck with the metal out-drives. Brilliant stuff my good friend! :)
So cool you're watching together, Mark. Must be fun to sit and discuss videos/channels/models in real person with a good friend. And thanks! Really appreciate the feedback for these type of videos, as they consume so much editing time :-) And yeah, that combo, with the plastic and metal didnøt work out great. Wonder why there haven't been a video showing/focusing on this particular issue, now that the model has been out for such a long time, so many have it, and I hear so many do this upgrade. Wonder how many people have installed these like this and are running around with no diff action. I think the diff action is quite important on this one, as it really isn't good on "rough terrain", and most people run these on flat surfaces (dirt/tarmac) with high speed. Thanks again, mate.
@@NordicRC Yes, Rob and I often watch RC related videos together, as you say, it's great to chat about the hobby, likes, dislikes, future cars and projects. Well at least you have done a video focussing on the metal gears and related issues, RUclips is all the better for it! And it seems that people are interested, judging by the views you are getting. Enjoy your Sunday, Mikael. :)
@@MarkBryanRC Wish I had a friend like that :-) Sounds like such a good time. Well, my boy like to watch youtube RC videos with me occasionally but the conversations, I suspect, during and after, is of another nature. Still loads of fun though. And yeah, I really hope people can use these videos before deciding which parts to buy. Have a great Sunday too, Mark. And say hello to Rob from me, if he get's some spare time from his giant House-Kit-Build.
I have mine completely torn apart at the moment cause I too am doing a series of upgrades. Just did the gearing last weekend. Working on suspension right now and then waiting for the rest of my upgrades to get here from Banggood and Gearbest. Great video my friend!!
Nordic RC Visions I had no problems with the metal gearing. I used the metal differential box as well. I haven’t put it all back together to run it yet because I’m upgrading as I put it back together but I did just run it without wheels and dog bones installed. Seemed to run alright.
@@ReadytoRunRC Yeah, when all metal it's really an incredible diff. Super smooth ... and looks good too :-) But the combo with the center shaft and metal bevel gears is way too tight on mine. Cooks the motor. Will have to find a solution. WOuld love to hear your thoughts once you get it for a test run.
Nordic RC Visions I will have to let you know how it works then when it’s all back together. Hoping by the end of this weekend that it will be drivable. The only time the gear mesh was too tight was when I put the differential back in the car and accidentally put the ring gear to the wrong side. It was so tight it didn’t want to go back in. Then I realized that I had it in backwards. Fit perfectly when I flipped it around and put it in the right way.
Ready to Run RC Yeah, in a past video from last year I show two versions of the chassis (one is the A959, the other is the A959-B - but it could be a coincidence). One got some pins/stoppers in one side - preventing one to install the diff in the wrong side.
I ran my “B” the other day, unreal fast little car! Still working on setup. Got a Typhon 6s, great RC! Lost encounter with a golf cart......kinda squashed it. Lesson learned.
Nice, Tony. Would love to hear if you have any tips for all of us, if you work the set up put. Uhh, yeah, the Typhon 6S. I have had my eyes on that one for too long now, so ... 😉
My tip is pay attention! Also it is a very heavy and stable buggy, easy to drive. It is not insanely fast due to weight. I think my Emaxx with Novak motor is faster from a stop, not sure about high end. I have gps on the way so I can tell actual speeds. All fast and powerful RCs need proper maintenance and frequent rebuilds due to the high probability of wear or damage.
Great build video bro, mine is all upgraded now all metal diffs, the only thing that isn't metal is the chassis, Diff case and Adjustable Rods, need to get it out and have a good play with it, great upgrade video 👍😊👍
Thanks Tony! So did the combo of the metal gears, metal outdrives and stock plastic box/case work? Didn't work too good here. Hope you get the last bit done with yours. Would love a video and your thoughts when you're done.
Yeah will do, but to be honest I've not given it a good test yet with all the finished upgrades done to it, so anything could happen but if the diffs do shred🤔 I think I'll lock them up mate, Job Done lol 👍😀👍
Tonys Rc Tech The internal diff gears are fine I think. Very smooth. Perfect. But it’s the fit of the ring gears, center shaft bevel/pinion gears and center shaft itself that causes the problem/binding/friction.
Thanks a lot, Charlie! Yeah, just had to try this before moving on, even though I had all the other metal parts ready. Hope some folks can use the information, that this combo doesn't fit together nicely. Have a great one too, my good friend.
Yeah, the B-version has washers. Most diffs I've seen have these placed underneath the driven bevel gear inside the diff. Not sure why the standard versions do not have.
So I i did the same in mine a969. Had the same issue and it still has the plastic housing. I found that if you pack them full of grease and spin them in a drill it will break them in. Still a bit noise but they spin free now. I have exactly what you are using.
Josh Herrman I think one definitly needs the metal outdrives at least (comes stock in the B-versions). And I agree, in the next video I show the combo. Much better and I could feel it losen a little up when working it. So I agree, with some time it could work. But with the metal cases/houses it is perfect from the start. I’ll show the difference in the next video, although it’s hard to demonstrate on video (but really easy to feel in person).
I just added all metal gears to my A959. To start the differentials, I had to tighten and back the screws off slightly to get it to turn smoothly adding a little locktight to make sure they don't back out. Then the pinion set this is where I ran into big problem took me a few hours to figure it out. The 2 screw over the bearing next to the pinion were to snug making everything bind.
Yeah, this upgrade will be a kinda roller coaster, but at least I will be able to examine it all and try it out. Might save some other people time filming it too 🙂
Well done! I’ve enjoyed this series! Just got the first run of my a959b done yesterday. Very crisp video image! And ya gotta have your coffee and optimism while wrenching!😂 Again, wonderful video, I look forward to the next one!😊👍
Hi Haydad! Thanks a lot for watching, bro. Congrats with your B-version! Would love to run mine as soon as possible. And thanks! Coffee and optimism goes well together with Rc projects I have found, he he.
Its not the (plastic) outdrives that are binding the diff, it must be the shim inside, on the bottom of plastic diff casing. In B versions, that shim is there to tighten the whole gear mesh because of the overkill motor in combination with original soft plastic gears. When you put these steel gears in, it binds because they do not give and adjust like plastic. Remove the shim, and in a few drives, diff action is buttery smooth and positive! After upgrading mine, I found out that the metal crown and pinion gears make a hell of a noise. Tried to accept it and live with it, but it was horribly noisy, so returned plastic crown and pinion, figured they are durable enough. Now just diff internals are metal, and everything is perfect - quiet and durable!
Yeah, it’s the plastic outdrives that are binding. Especially the one on the side with the ring gear. It’s only the B-versions that come with the shim. The standard do not, so there are no shims in this one. I am sorting it all out in the next video with the full metal diffs 🙂 Right now I am actually also encountering trouble with the whole metal transmission. More about that later.
@@NordicRC Originally yes. Even when sorted, proper mesh set up and spinning nicely, they are VERY LOUD. Too loud. Even the original plastic pinions on original central drive shaft (metal or plastic) have wrong fitment: rear diff pinion is too tighty meshed with crown (ring) gear, it needs to be closer to reduction gear, and that can only be if the small portion of that diff pinion (that is in contact with reduction gear) is removed, ground down
Ivo Stefancic Yeah, experienced a lot of binding and friction too. On a test run it nearly cooked the motor. Will try to take another look at the transmission and see what can be done.
@@NordicRC Yep, that 390 brushed motor is near its limit as it is (but I agree that the Non-B version is more enjoyable) Got my driveline set up perfectly smooth, but as soon as I swapped wheels for A979 ones, motor and esc temperature went through the roof, and run time (with 1100 mAh) got nearly halved. Currents that it has to deal with now are obviously much greater and too much. But that is strange, because A979 is identical in chassis, driveline and electronics... But with those bigger wheels it is sluggish and with overloaded electronics.
Well that had to be a bit disappointing after all the work I have had this problem with hop ups before as well sometimes they just dont fit right and you end up doing allot more work then planned but what can you do that's the experience if the hobby great video very detailed 👍😀
Yeah, sometimes it can be very disappointing when parts don't fit after hours of work. This time around, it's all good, because I already had the other metal parts ready and was going to install them anyway. So it was kinda uplifting to see this combo didn't fit - then there was more reason behind doing the other upgrade :-) And thanks for the feedback, Brent. Hope your A959-B is doing good too.
Ahh, yeah. Had a 979-B once. I liked the looks but it was even harder to control than the A959-B :-) Hope to receive an A969 and an A979 soon. Gonna be fun :-)
Saludos amigo Nordic RC Visions ¡¡ otro magnifico trabajo con esta buena reforma de piñoneria con el WLToys Rc , EHNORABUENA ¡¡ por el buen trabajo como siempre y gracias por compartir este interesante momento . Saludos cordiales desde Canarias y ten buen fin de semana mi buen amigo .
Seems they like you to change more then you think you need. Would of been a good time to change the centre dive shaft to save you having to strip it down again later.
Yeah, that’s what I thought. It’s a kinda all or nothing diff I think. And yes, you read my mind. Didn’t have a spare but I sorted it out before I closed it :-)
Great video... Where did you get that metal cross wrench? Can you provide a link please? Mine is plastic and i need a new one to work on my car that is an a979b btw
Thanks, Nuno! Ohh you can get those everywhere and they come free with a lot of kits/models. Never bought one myself but the ones I have is Tamiya: tamico.de/navi.php?a=5021&lang=eng but any brand will probably do the job.
Thanks for the video 👍🙂 I am about to upgrade mine cars to with metal. But have a problem. When i tight the metal "two floor" the car Will not go forward. But if i lose the Screw a little it goes forward. But This first car Will be a test 🙂 I have two more B version if it goes wrong. Hehe 🙂 sry bad english. Thanks again for the video 👍🙂
Thanks for watching! My English isn't perfect too :-) Hope you get the problem solved. Yeah, one can easily overtighten screws, if that is what happened.
@@NordicRC Hehe 🙂 Yes i think i will solve the problem. Yes it is like it is owertighten. But i cant "feel" it. ITs feel like it should when i tighten the Screw. But i Will try later today and writh back to you. 🙂
brother i have aa problem to build this a979 all metall rc car, could you please help me ? when i spin and turn my a979 ( teel wheel axle) then this stuck with dogbone please tell me what the reason ???
My B version actually came with metal gears. The ring and pinoin gears are metal. The diffs probably are to, but the spur is plastic and the pinoin is like a brass metal?
Uhh, Wow. First time I’ve heard about one of these coming with metal gears (besides the motor pinion). Was it a used model or brand new? Yes, I bet if the ring and bevel/pinion gears are metal the bevel gears inside are too. I’m actually not sure what the stock metal pinion is made of. But yellow color could indicate brass (the wheel bushings are certainly brass) though it’s strange if it isn’t alloy, like 90% percent of all the rest entry-level RTR’s.
Me waiting for main gear to arrive. My wltoys is a979b and a959b they metal gear but the power is to much. I think i will change the motor for 390 less destructy
All You Can Do Yeah, my favorite is definitely the standard ones with the 390 motor too, although the B-versions can be fun for the occasional crazy-speed-run 🙂
Ahh, for the sake of sharing. So others might get a heads up for what combos work and what not. I would have loved to know before ordering any parts for any RC. Especially these online-ordering-days where buying the wrong part or missing a part can mean weeks of waiting. But yes, off camera I would just have installed it all at once 🙂
The metal drive shaft is a little too long...I had to wack the center plastic . You have to replace the plastic..becuase it CRACKED..even on the 390 motor. i barely have 10 runs on the POS...every time I run it..something stupid happens. I got tired of waiting for parts..then parts breaking...nickle and dimming me... wasting my time....The damn gears stripped the first time i ran it...then the motor fired from the fan melting...i only paid $30 new for it....but I have almost $100 in it..i got Fy03 for $40...slap 2845 3100kv 60A 3s 40C 1500mah....ran it for over a year (100 plus times) before I broke a drive shaft ( $4).... I got 1/10 volcano pro, black out pro, ZD racing...all for $110...ea NEW and BRUSHLESS. i dont even know what the gears are in them...becuase they DONT BREAK.lmao I also run them on 3S...instead of 2s i can get use 1/8 nitro buggies for $100...They come all metal gears...and up grade sometimes. Lmao ....slapp in 4076 2250KV ($35) 120A ocday ( $25) 18-22t pinon set..$7 Rx $7 4S 50C 5000 mah.....they do over 50mph...easy.. The thing about it is.... I dont have to work on them.lol a 4082 1900 kv is $40....a 4092 1600 KV is only $50.....if you need more power and the erdge to break parts or do 80mph....150A-180A esc are $75-$150 so you can run 4-8 cells...The batteries and ESC are the most expensive parts. it's $50 for 4s 50C 5000mah zop power.
OneEyE Monster Nice to hear from you again. Yeah I have sone trouble with the metal center shaft and the combo with the metal gears (gonna show it in a later video). It binds. Will try to sort it out. I have had 7 different units of these and never had a problem with gears or motor.
Yeah! This time, for me, it wasn’t that bad since I already had the other parts ready. And this problem will have to justify to use them ☺️ But I can imagine how irritating it must be if one only had bought these metal gears.
I had the same problem, but I bought the aluminium diff-housing, and then everything worked just fine. Nice video 😊
m.aliexpress.com/item/32833421167.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32833421167&aff_trace_key=&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=2765amp-8WRz1fpuf3jptVTfpDUmZA1560015301702
maccyoneTV Yeah, exactely, coming up in the next video. Thought a video with this combo (metal gears and the rest stock) could help others (to not try this combo alone). Got other problems later though again 🙂
maccyoneTV Yes, I think I even show these carriers/cases in the end of this video 🙂
I watched this video with Rob on his big screen last night. What a showcase for instructional and informational videos - so well shot and so clear and simple! This is how you do it! Pity the diff was locked, unintentionally! But better luck with the metal out-drives. Brilliant stuff my good friend! :)
So cool you're watching together, Mark. Must be fun to sit and discuss videos/channels/models in real person with a good friend. And thanks! Really appreciate the feedback for these type of videos, as they consume so much editing time :-) And yeah, that combo, with the plastic and metal didnøt work out great. Wonder why there haven't been a video showing/focusing on this particular issue, now that the model has been out for such a long time, so many have it, and I hear so many do this upgrade. Wonder how many people have installed these like this and are running around with no diff action. I think the diff action is quite important on this one, as it really isn't good on "rough terrain", and most people run these on flat surfaces (dirt/tarmac) with high speed. Thanks again, mate.
@@NordicRC Yes, Rob and I often watch RC related videos together, as you say, it's great to chat about the hobby, likes, dislikes, future cars and projects. Well at least you have done a video focussing on the metal gears and related issues, RUclips is all the better for it! And it seems that people are interested, judging by the views you are getting. Enjoy your Sunday, Mikael. :)
@@MarkBryanRC Wish I had a friend like that :-) Sounds like such a good time. Well, my boy like to watch youtube RC videos with me occasionally but the conversations, I suspect, during and after, is of another nature. Still loads of fun though. And yeah, I really hope people can use these videos before deciding which parts to buy. Have a great Sunday too, Mark. And say hello to Rob from me, if he get's some spare time from his giant House-Kit-Build.
@@NordicRC Hehe - I am imagining your conversations with Jr! Yeah, seeing Rob later - he has Sunday off! I will be sure to pass on your "hello" :)
I have mine completely torn apart at the moment cause I too am doing a series of upgrades. Just did the gearing last weekend. Working on suspension right now and then waiting for the rest of my upgrades to get here from Banggood and Gearbest. Great video my friend!!
Nice, bro. So how is the metal gearing working out? Still have trouble with mine. And thanks a lot.
Nordic RC Visions I had no problems with the metal gearing. I used the metal differential box as well. I haven’t put it all back together to run it yet because I’m upgrading as I put it back together but I did just run it without wheels and dog bones installed. Seemed to run alright.
@@ReadytoRunRC Yeah, when all metal it's really an incredible diff. Super smooth ... and looks good too :-) But the combo with the center shaft and metal bevel gears is way too tight on mine. Cooks the motor. Will have to find a solution. WOuld love to hear your thoughts once you get it for a test run.
Nordic RC Visions I will have to let you know how it works then when it’s all back together. Hoping by the end of this weekend that it will be drivable. The only time the gear mesh was too tight was when I put the differential back in the car and accidentally put the ring gear to the wrong side. It was so tight it didn’t want to go back in. Then I realized that I had it in backwards. Fit perfectly when I flipped it around and put it in the right way.
Ready to Run RC Yeah, in a past video from last year I show two versions of the chassis (one is the A959, the other is the A959-B - but it could be a coincidence). One got some pins/stoppers in one side - preventing one to install the diff in the wrong side.
I ran my “B” the other day, unreal fast little car! Still working on setup.
Got a Typhon 6s, great RC! Lost encounter with a golf cart......kinda squashed it. Lesson learned.
Nice, Tony. Would love to hear if you have any tips for all of us, if you work the set up put. Uhh, yeah, the Typhon 6S. I have had my eyes on that one for too long now, so ... 😉
Hope you got it all fixed again. I can imagine an RC with that speed would suffer when hitting any kind of other vehicle.
Not much really! Arrma is tough!
My tip is pay attention! Also it is a very heavy and stable buggy, easy to drive. It is not insanely fast due to weight. I think my Emaxx with Novak motor is faster from a stop, not sure about high end. I have gps on the way so I can tell actual speeds.
All fast and powerful RCs need proper maintenance and frequent rebuilds due to the high probability of wear or damage.
Tony Romano Definitely think it looks fast with 6S in the videos I’ve seen. But seems quite durable too.
Great build video bro, mine is all upgraded now all metal diffs, the only thing that isn't metal is the chassis, Diff case and Adjustable Rods, need to get it out and have a good play with it, great upgrade video 👍😊👍
Thanks Tony! So did the combo of the metal gears, metal outdrives and stock plastic box/case work? Didn't work too good here. Hope you get the last bit done with yours. Would love a video and your thoughts when you're done.
Yeah will do, but to be honest I've not given it a good test yet with all the finished upgrades done to it, so anything could happen but if the diffs do shred🤔 I think I'll lock them up mate, Job Done lol 👍😀👍
Tonys Rc Tech The internal diff gears are fine I think. Very smooth. Perfect. But it’s the fit of the ring gears, center shaft bevel/pinion gears and center shaft itself that causes the problem/binding/friction.
That's good to know, fingers crossed mine works ok, 🤞🤞
Sometimes you have to fail, just to do it right the next time. Happens to all of us! Damn cool series Mikael. Have a great weekend 👌
Thanks a lot, Charlie! Yeah, just had to try this before moving on, even though I had all the other metal parts ready. Hope some folks can use the information, that this combo doesn't fit together nicely. Have a great one too, my good friend.
That's going to look so nice with all those metal parts installed.
Yeah, gonna be great. But I think I will have some issues to sort out along the way ☺️
The B version has washers in the diff,Im sure I had the same problem ,no problems now 👍🏻
Yeah, the B-version has washers. Most diffs I've seen have these placed underneath the driven bevel gear inside the diff. Not sure why the standard versions do not have.
So I i did the same in mine a969. Had the same issue and it still has the plastic housing. I found that if you pack them full of grease and spin them in a drill it will break them in. Still a bit noise but they spin free now. I have exactly what you are using.
Josh Herrman I think one definitly needs the metal outdrives at least (comes stock in the B-versions). And I agree, in the next video I show the combo. Much better and I could feel it losen a little up when working it. So I agree, with some time it could work. But with the metal cases/houses it is perfect from the start. I’ll show the difference in the next video, although it’s hard to demonstrate on video (but really easy to feel in person).
I ran the B out drives on mine. They are still loud though.
I just added all metal gears to my A959. To start the differentials, I had to tighten and back the screws off slightly to get it to turn smoothly adding a little locktight to make sure they don't back out. Then the pinion set this is where I ran into big problem took me a few hours to figure it out. The 2 screw over the bearing next to the pinion were to snug making everything bind.
The all-metal-diffs was smooth but I burned out my ESC/motor (see the rest of the series).
Nice work, those metal gear upgrades always seem to be tight.
Yeah, this upgrade will be a kinda roller coaster, but at least I will be able to examine it all and try it out. Might save some other people time filming it too 🙂
And thanks a lot for watching, Steve.
Well done! I’ve enjoyed this series! Just got the first run of my a959b done yesterday. Very crisp video image! And ya gotta have your coffee and optimism while wrenching!😂
Again, wonderful video, I look forward to the next one!😊👍
Hi Haydad! Thanks a lot for watching, bro. Congrats with your B-version! Would love to run mine as soon as possible. And thanks! Coffee and optimism goes well together with Rc projects I have found, he he.
Its not the (plastic) outdrives that are binding the diff, it must be the shim inside, on the bottom of plastic diff casing.
In B versions, that shim is there to tighten the whole gear mesh because of the overkill motor in combination with original soft plastic gears.
When you put these steel gears in, it binds because they do not give and adjust like plastic. Remove the shim, and in a few drives, diff action is buttery smooth and positive!
After upgrading mine, I found out that the metal crown and pinion gears make a hell of a noise.
Tried to accept it and live with it, but it was horribly noisy, so returned plastic crown and pinion, figured they are durable enough. Now just diff internals are metal, and everything is perfect - quiet and durable!
Yeah, it’s the plastic outdrives that are binding. Especially the one on the side with the ring gear. It’s only the B-versions that come with the shim. The standard do not, so there are no shims in this one. I am sorting it all out in the next video with the full metal diffs 🙂 Right now I am actually also encountering trouble with the whole metal transmission. More about that later.
And thanks for sharing. I think too that the metal ring gear + metal bevel/pinion is a too tight fit.
@@NordicRC Originally yes. Even when sorted, proper mesh set up and spinning nicely, they are VERY LOUD. Too loud.
Even the original plastic pinions on original central drive shaft (metal or plastic) have wrong fitment: rear diff pinion is too tighty meshed with crown (ring) gear, it needs to be closer to reduction gear, and that can only be if the small portion of that diff pinion (that is in contact with reduction gear) is removed, ground down
Ivo Stefancic Yeah, experienced a lot of binding and friction too. On a test run it nearly cooked the motor. Will try to take another look at the transmission and see what can be done.
@@NordicRC Yep, that 390 brushed motor is near its limit as it is (but I agree that the Non-B version is more enjoyable)
Got my driveline set up perfectly smooth, but as soon as I swapped wheels for A979 ones, motor and esc temperature went through the roof, and run time (with 1100 mAh) got nearly halved. Currents that it has to deal with now are obviously much greater and too much.
But that is strange, because A979 is identical in chassis, driveline and electronics... But with those bigger wheels it is sluggish and with overloaded electronics.
Well that had to be a bit disappointing after all the work I have had this problem with hop ups before as well sometimes they just dont fit right and you end up doing allot more work then planned but what can you do that's the experience if the hobby great video very detailed 👍😀
Yeah, sometimes it can be very disappointing when parts don't fit after hours of work. This time around, it's all good, because I already had the other metal parts ready and was going to install them anyway. So it was kinda uplifting to see this combo didn't fit - then there was more reason behind doing the other upgrade :-) And thanks for the feedback, Brent. Hope your A959-B is doing good too.
@@NordicRC it is doing good tough little buggy I have been enjoying the 979B I like the truck tires 😀👍
Ahh, yeah. Had a 979-B once. I liked the looks but it was even harder to control than the A959-B :-) Hope to receive an A969 and an A979 soon. Gonna be fun :-)
Saludos amigo Nordic RC Visions ¡¡ otro magnifico trabajo con esta buena reforma de piñoneria con el WLToys Rc , EHNORABUENA ¡¡ por el buen trabajo como siempre y gracias por compartir este interesante momento . Saludos cordiales desde Canarias y ten buen fin de semana mi buen amigo .
Thanks, Juan!
Seems they like you to change more then you think you need. Would of been a good time to change the centre dive shaft to save you having to strip it down again later.
Yeah, that’s what I thought. It’s a kinda all or nothing diff I think. And yes, you read my mind. Didn’t have a spare but I sorted it out before I closed it :-)
Always great video! Can't wait the new one❤️
Thanks, Eros! Hope to get the next episode done today. These type of videos consume so much editing time.
@@NordicRC yes I know! Also your video are so well done.. :) so big time consuming
It warms my heart to know that all the work is appreciated by the RC family here :-)
Great video... Where did you get that metal cross wrench? Can you provide a link please?
Mine is plastic and i need a new one to work on my car that is an a979b btw
Thanks, Nuno! Ohh you can get those everywhere and they come free with a lot of kits/models. Never bought one myself but the ones I have is Tamiya: tamico.de/navi.php?a=5021&lang=eng but any brand will probably do the job.
@@NordicRC thatnks
Thanks for the video 👍🙂 I am about to upgrade mine cars to with metal. But have a problem. When i tight the metal "two floor" the car Will not go forward. But if i lose the Screw a little it goes forward. But This first car Will be a test 🙂 I have two more B version if it goes wrong. Hehe 🙂 sry bad english. Thanks again for the video 👍🙂
Thanks for watching! My English isn't perfect too :-) Hope you get the problem solved. Yeah, one can easily overtighten screws, if that is what happened.
@@NordicRC Hehe 🙂 Yes i think i will solve the problem. Yes it is like it is owertighten. But i cant "feel" it. ITs feel like it should when i tighten the Screw. But i Will try later today and writh back to you. 🙂
brother i have aa problem to build this a979 all metall rc car, could you please help me ? when i spin and turn my a979 ( teel wheel axle) then this stuck with dogbone please tell me what the reason ???
Cool rc
Yeah, very cool :-) fast, good looking and affordable :-)
My B version actually came with metal gears. The ring and pinoin gears are metal. The diffs probably are to, but the spur is plastic and the pinoin is like a brass metal?
Uhh, Wow. First time I’ve heard about one of these coming with metal gears (besides the motor pinion). Was it a used model or brand new? Yes, I bet if the ring and bevel/pinion gears are metal the bevel gears inside are too. I’m actually not sure what the stock metal pinion is made of. But yellow color could indicate brass (the wheel bushings are certainly brass) though it’s strange if it isn’t alloy, like 90% percent of all the rest entry-level RTR’s.
@@NordicRC It was brand new when I got it
@@RobertNES816 Uhh, even more interesting. Thanks for the info, Robert.
Great Job!👏👍
Thank you, James!
Xxl
Xxl
@@NordicRC xxxl
Xxxlxx
Very informative
Thanks for the nice feedback, bro. I sincerely hope people can use my experiences that I get all through this upgrade.
Me waiting for main gear to arrive. My wltoys is a979b and a959b they metal gear but the power is to much. I think i will change the motor for 390 less destructy
All You Can Do Yeah, my favorite is definitely the standard ones with the 390 motor too, although the B-versions can be fun for the occasional crazy-speed-run 🙂
Not sure why you tried the plastic outdrives when you had the proper ones sitting right there lol
Ahh, for the sake of sharing. So others might get a heads up for what combos work and what not. I would have loved to know before ordering any parts for any RC. Especially these online-ordering-days where buying the wrong part or missing a part can mean weeks of waiting. But yes, off camera I would just have installed it all at once 🙂
out of the topic question anyone know where i can get a kit that alllows for multichanel receiver have two of the same cars
Mikael are interested in the new arrmas?
Yeah, especially the Limitless 😀
The metal drive shaft is a little too long...I had to wack the center plastic .
You have to replace the plastic..becuase it CRACKED..even on the 390 motor.
i barely have 10 runs on the POS...every time I run it..something stupid happens.
I got tired of waiting for parts..then parts breaking...nickle and dimming me...
wasting my time....The damn gears stripped the first time i ran it...then the motor
fired from the fan melting...i only paid $30 new for it....but I have almost $100
in it..i got Fy03 for $40...slap 2845 3100kv 60A 3s 40C 1500mah....ran it for over
a year (100 plus times) before I broke a drive shaft ( $4)....
I got 1/10 volcano pro, black out pro, ZD racing...all for $110...ea NEW and BRUSHLESS.
i dont even know what the gears are in them...becuase they DONT BREAK.lmao
I also run them on 3S...instead of 2s
i can get use 1/8 nitro buggies for $100...They come all metal gears...and up grade sometimes. Lmao ....slapp in 4076 2250KV ($35) 120A ocday ( $25) 18-22t pinon set..$7
Rx $7 4S 50C 5000 mah.....they do over 50mph...easy..
The thing about it is.... I dont have to work on them.lol
a 4082 1900 kv is $40....a 4092 1600 KV is only $50.....if you need more power
and the erdge to break parts or do 80mph....150A-180A esc are $75-$150
so you can run 4-8 cells...The batteries and ESC are the most expensive parts.
it's $50 for 4s 50C 5000mah zop power.
OneEyE Monster Nice to hear from you again. Yeah I have sone trouble with the metal center shaft and the combo with the metal gears (gonna show it in a later video). It binds. Will try to sort it out. I have had 7 different units of these and never had a problem with gears or motor.
God video :)
Thanks a lot, Hey Dude!
Always annoying when new parts don't fit right!
Yeah! This time, for me, it wasn’t that bad since I already had the other parts ready. And this problem will have to justify to use them ☺️ But I can imagine how irritating it must be if one only had bought these metal gears.
cc
This is toy not serious rc car
MUSIC WORLD All RC cars are toys. Some are cheap and some are expensive. If the quality, design, performance reflect the price all is good.
@@NordicRC not toys rc and
rc professional 500€ -2000€