Thank you Rob...i now understand spring box construction, been asking folks for a couple of years how they are built, was getting no clear answers. I appreciate you showing all the fits and refits and challenges and problem solving. This is a beautiful property.
There isn’t a clear answer because a lot of the traditional matters have been proven unsafe as a contamination and get compared to them more modern method of using a plastic dam and completely burying it
Bravo! That is a ton of work on its own - let alone having to film, explain explain what's going on, and then edit it all afterwards. Thanks for all of your hard work. I'm looking forward to the ram pump segment as well and hope that it includes calculations for your given source flow and the elevation gain you need.
Rob, a great way to secure your spring box and support it when its full would be to install a five or six foot screw anchor into the bank on either side,providing its not solid rock. If its is in fact solid rock, a ramset with a couple of stainless steel rings on either side would also do the trick. Which ever of the two works for you, jus run a piece of rope,cable or chain across from side to side. Another thing iv used with good success for a spring box is a galvanized window well cover. With a little adaptaion you can use plastic,and before installing it make sure to cut a debris cover,i used sheet metle and 90 degreed the edges.
The purpose of a spring development is to adapt a ground water source to a pipe to which you connect fittings. If the water source is already adapted to a pipe you just need a coupling and a tee to connect to your other springs. You sure did do a lot of work when a sharkbite fitting or pvc would have connected to the pipe you already had there!
A good dam doesn't have a hundred percent seal. If the water is allowed to accumulate past a certain point it can actually burst it. Bentonite takes at least a couple of applications before it will seal properly. You have to wait for it to saturate before adding subsequent layers. Not sure why, but it seems to work better that way. As for the diy coupling you did, the rate of expansion is very different between plastic and metal. Very resourceful for the time being, but after a couple of seasons it would be prone to leakage. Good luck!
I have never built a spring box but I know there's no way I would build it like that. Talking about doing things the hardest way possible. I would have used a hammer drill and rebar from the stone then built some cheap 6 inch forms leaving the pipe run water over it until my concrete tank was completed. Then I would seal the inside with mortar and paint the exterior with a sealer penetration paint. This way would be easier with cordless tools and take time for it to cure but it would last a really long time.
Why did you cut the barrel in half. Wouldn't it have been better as is. I wonder if you just figured out a way to better seal the pvc pipe into the hillside and allowed it to fill the bucket. You might have had better success at raising the water level inside the barrel (without leaks). I find it hard to believe that the water will continue flowing into the dam (or barrel) and raise the water level above the original pvc pipe without finding another path of least resistance instead... The flow coming out of the dam looks the same as it was with the original pipe. I realize the original pvc pipe into the hillside wasn't a perfect seal but feel like you would have less water loss with the barrel un-cut. Maybe I'm missing something? Thoughts? Ps Rob. Great videos, great info, awesome new property. Keep up the constant hard work. You're doing a great job. I've learned so much from your channel. Thank you
I like your idea of keeping the cattle from polluting the stream I know when there were 200 million bison roaming America they never pooped in the streams
i don't get the point of cutting the barrel and then finding ways to seal it; why don't we leave it as it is and fill it with gravel? and what's the point of filling with gravel if the water is directly coming out of the spring (already filtered by soil)?
Dry the area out just run your pipe all the way through if you can and then put some concrete in there some quick Crete that should set it up pretty nice and you can resculpt your whole bottom on the tank
Lots of hard work and I commend you for it, but I question why cut the barrel open? Why not just support the intact barrel with the T-posts and plumb the springs into the barrel? Also if you block the bottom of the pipe the air will escape up hill until you have enough water in the pipe to suction itself free of air. Alternatively, you can bring another barrel up to the springs and fill it then put the water into the pipe rapidly to get enough water weight to push the air out through the pipe. Ultimately you have to have enough flow to not allow any new air into the pipe while running the ram pump.
Titus 2:14 King James Version 14 Who gave himself for us, that he might redeem us from all iniquity, and purify unto himself a peculiar people, zealous of good works.
You already had a pipe. Should have put barrel vertical, even 2 or bigger tank, built platform to lean alittle toward hillside, and you're done. Got so frustrated watching all the unnecessary work that I didn't finish watching it to the end. Hope it worked out.
That's not a proper spring box. All that's going to do is keep breaching underneath. And how are you going to prevent insects, silt, dirt, bacteria and other microorganisms from contaminating your water? There's literature out there on how to build a spring box. If you're going to go to the trouble you might want to do some more research before you spend a bunch of time and money on something that's not going to last.
I am sure you had your reasons, but it wasn’t self evident. Why did you just not use the existing pipe fee into a complete (structural intact water barrel) instead if creating a leaky dam with part of the barrel? Was there a gray deal of water leaking outside of the existing pipe?
the real deal, and lots of learning!
Thank you Rob...i now understand spring box construction, been asking folks for a couple of years how they are built, was getting no clear answers. I appreciate you showing all the fits and refits and challenges and problem solving. This is a beautiful property.
There isn’t a clear answer because a lot of the traditional matters have been proven unsafe as a contamination and get compared to them more modern method of using a plastic dam and completely burying it
Bravo! That is a ton of work on its own - let alone having to film, explain explain what's going on, and then edit it all afterwards.
Thanks for all of your hard work. I'm looking forward to the ram pump segment as well and hope that it includes calculations for your given source flow and the elevation gain you need.
Rob, a great way to secure your spring box and support it when its full would be to install a five or six foot screw anchor into the bank on either side,providing its not solid rock. If its is in fact solid rock, a ramset with a couple of stainless steel rings on either side would also do the trick. Which ever of the two works for you, jus run a piece of rope,cable or chain across from side to side. Another thing iv used with good success for a spring box is a galvanized window well cover. With a little adaptaion you can use plastic,and before installing it make sure to cut a debris cover,i used sheet metle and 90 degreed the edges.
I am new at this, but why not put the box down at the lowest spring at the tree, then just pipe the water from the other 2 higher ones into the box?
The purpose of a spring development is to adapt a ground water source to a pipe to which you connect fittings. If the water source is already adapted to a pipe you just need a coupling and a tee to connect to your other springs. You sure did do a lot of work when a sharkbite fitting or pvc would have connected to the pipe you already had there!
Love these type of videos!! Cheers.
Very knowledgeable and thorough video!
would love an update video to see how it held up
A good dam doesn't have a hundred percent seal. If the water is allowed to accumulate past a certain point it can actually burst it. Bentonite takes at least a couple of applications before it will seal properly. You have to wait for it to saturate before adding subsequent layers. Not sure why, but it seems to work better that way. As for the diy coupling you did, the rate of expansion is very different between plastic and metal. Very resourceful for the time being, but after a couple of seasons it would be prone to leakage. Good luck!
I have never built a spring box but I know there's no way I would build it like that. Talking about doing things the hardest way possible. I would have used a hammer drill and rebar from the stone then built some cheap 6 inch forms leaving the pipe run water over it until my concrete tank was completed. Then I would seal the inside with mortar and paint the exterior with a sealer penetration paint. This way would be easier with cordless tools and take time for it to cure but it would last a really long time.
Here in WV, it’s a crick, a creek is in a wagon wheel.
Hi Rob, where's the part 2 of you spring box project? Thank you
Coming this friday! ;)
Why did you cut the barrel in half.
Wouldn't it have been better as is.
I wonder if you just figured out a way to better seal the pvc pipe into the hillside and allowed it to fill the bucket.
You might have had better success at raising the water level inside the barrel (without leaks).
I find it hard to believe that the water will continue flowing into the dam (or barrel) and raise the water level above the original pvc pipe without finding another path of least resistance instead...
The flow coming out of the dam looks the same as it was with the original pipe.
I realize the original pvc pipe into the hillside wasn't a perfect seal but feel like you would have less water loss with the barrel un-cut.
Maybe I'm missing something?
Thoughts?
Ps Rob. Great videos, great info, awesome new property. Keep up the constant hard work. You're doing a great job. I've learned so much from your channel. Thank you
Yeeee
I like your idea of keeping the cattle from polluting the stream
I know when there were 200 million bison roaming America they never pooped in the streams
Talking Ben Yeeeess
use a Ram pump
you can pump water anywhere with its own force
Are you looking for a Wwoofer?
Did this apparatus ever become operable?
Nice property. Sorry I watched you butcher that barrel tho holy cow. I would have used it in tact.
How well did this hold up?
i don't get the point of cutting the barrel and then finding ways to seal it; why don't we leave it as it is and fill it with gravel? and what's the point of filling with gravel if the water is directly coming out of the spring (already filtered by soil)?
Dry the area out just run your pipe all the way through if you can and then put some concrete in there some quick Crete that should set it up pretty nice and you can resculpt your whole bottom on the tank
Video #2 ???
Your looking for a gallon per second?? Most people are happy with 2 tor 3 gpm. You can run a ram pump on 3 gpm. It runs 24 hrs 7 days a week.
Lots of hard work and I commend you for it, but I question why cut the barrel open? Why not just support the intact barrel with the T-posts and plumb the springs into the barrel? Also if you block the bottom of the pipe the air will escape up hill until you have enough water in the pipe to suction itself free of air. Alternatively, you can bring another barrel up to the springs and fill it then put the water into the pipe rapidly to get enough water weight to push the air out through the pipe. Ultimately you have to have enough flow to not allow any new air into the pipe while running the ram pump.
Or you could just placed a plastic tank and channeled water directly inside tank by diging a small water path.
5 liters per minute, I think you meant to say
You could get threw the clay with a pole driver lol
Titus 2:14
King James Version
14 Who gave himself for us, that he might redeem us from all iniquity, and purify unto himself a peculiar people, zealous of good works.
You already had a pipe. Should have put barrel vertical, even 2 or bigger tank, built platform to lean alittle toward hillside, and you're done.
Got so frustrated watching all the unnecessary work that I didn't finish watching it to the end.
Hope it worked out.
You dummy, its not a creek...its a CRICK! 🤣
You need bailing wire a duct tape in your tool box.
Ho ho ho
Dude, why make your life so hard? So simple to do your making it to complicated... ..
That's not a proper spring box. All that's going to do is keep breaching underneath. And how are you going to prevent insects, silt, dirt, bacteria and other microorganisms from contaminating your water? There's literature out there on how to build a spring box. If you're going to go to the trouble you might want to do some more research before you spend a bunch of time and money on something that's not going to last.
Okay so what are your recommendations on what should be done differently?
Get some cordless tools dude!
Hire me
I am sure you had your reasons, but it wasn’t self evident. Why did you just not use the existing pipe fee into a complete (structural intact water barrel) instead if creating a leaky dam with part of the barrel? Was there a gray deal of water leaking outside of the existing pipe?
Nooo