Lead Free Soldering Compared to Lead Soldering | Tips & Methods |
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2015
- A quick comparison between lead free soldering and 60 / 40 soldering on a printed circuit board or PCB. Each type of solder requires a slightly different method to solder. The viewer will see quickly that it is not to hard to solder with lead free solder if the soldering iron is set up properly. A short discussion about Restrictions of Hazardous Substance or RoHS compliance for lead free soldering. The tutorial is well suited for the electronic / electrical technician, technologist, engineer, trades person, or home hobbyist that has no experience with electronic proto-typing. This video would be especially useful for the person assembling an electronic kit for the first time. Please watch the additional videos using the DMM, other test equipment, and on soldering techniques.
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Nice soldering. Just so you know, Kester type 331 has a very aggressive "organic flux" in it, and will remove plating from boards within hours if the Flux is not cleaned off immediately after soldering. Organic Flux is one of the most aggressive of all the Fluxes available. This is denoted by the red label. The Flux fumes in this solder are very dangerous, and should not be inhaled. FYI: The Flux in this solder "Type 331" smells like hot transmission fluid during soldering. Be careful while using this! Other than that, it has great wetting ability, and it's nice to use on oxidized or unclean surfaces.
Mr Carlson. I have watched many of your videos and have great respect for your knowledge. I will say that when using any solder or sodder, hi, hi, I use an extractor fan via a long tube to funnel any fumes out of the window.
Thank you
Wooww.. this is just a priceless information!!
I am glad I am reading this comment rather than learning this the hard way... haha
Glad to see u here, your channel is just AWESOME!!!!! =]
thank you sir..i'm having trouble sticking between two part in solder,it won't stick at all..now i know why that happen,maybe i use the wrong one..
Mr Carlson's Lab i'm using stanley soldering iron to join engine coil but failure in the job..the solder itself won't stick to tinning..
Thanks for the unbiased, straightforward comparison!!
Excellent comparison. Just what I wanted as I was looking for those two soldering wires Sn/Pb 60/40 and Sn-0.7Cu behaviors, and operation!
So, so helpful. Clear and informative, many thanks
Thank you so much for this Video.I use lead free solder and i found this is very helpful.
This has been extremely helpful to me. Thank you very much.
Give this man a medal!
Lead free or 60/40?
Lead free or 60/40?
I’m just learning so this was helpful. Thank you
The unleaded is slow because the wetting and hence heat transfer is poor. It can be a lot better if you use a bit with a flat face (chisel, hoof, wedge, etc.) of a size to match the work in hand, rather than conical one used here, as it retains a larger wetted surface for longer, and so more easily wets and transfers heat to the target. The highly convex conical tip becomes dry very quickly at the place where you need it most, especially if you increase the temperature in an attempt to speed things up.
Nice video, you are one rare person who is skilled working with lead free solder iron, all other just say lead free is crap as they don't know how to work with it !!
Chandraprakash G hi, can you tell me what is the difference between leaded and the lead-free please.
It says the difference in the name. And in the video it describes the differences. Silly comment.
As a newbie I've attempted to only use lead free and it seems to be working out well for me so far. I think a lot of people who got used to lead really don't like the change. Either that or the lead has damaged their brains ;) I joke haha.
Goob quality 60/40 stics so much better... But its banned in EU so i need to use weaker joints... Well till my better iron comes next week
Lead free really is shit 😅
Been soldering with 60/40 lead for > 40 yrs. Still alive and happy with the ease of using it compared to the lead-free. However, not so happy with the difficulty to find 60/40 on the market. Thanks for your informative video!
Excellent Explanation.
Thanks, well done. Respect
beautiful technique
thanks for sharing
very nice. thanks for sharing.
Video was done very well
thank you for ur explanation
Thank you for the video. I start a new job Monday, and this is useful.
+Babu Ki - good luck with your new job.
I am having a very hard time with the lead free stuff that we now have to use at work. The component I need to work on can't be heated up too much so they have the iron set at 550 degrees and they want me to move quickly so the sensor will not be ruined by the heat. Also, the buss wire I solder to the sensor to make the legs longer (not sure why they don't just buy sensors with longer leads) will come un-soldered when I try to solder them to the board. With the older stuff it was much easier to say the least. Let's talk about lead in the land fills, I can't use a Tiny amount of lead solder, yet I can go to my outdoor shooting range and empty a mag of 45 acp at a target and then go hunting with 00 buck and spread 7 rounds of lead balls all over the woods for fun. I wouldn't use that much lead in a year or two doing PC Boards as I would in one afternoon at an outdoor range. If the government wants to ban guns all they would have to do is ban lead ammo.
Hi thanks for your demo, really clear.
I had a spool of solder from my dads house for years and it made fantastic joints, flowed really well and you could go back and reheat it easily.
Bought cheap 63/37 from ebay to replace it and it's so dry, hard to get it to flow and makes horrid joints. Not sure if it's lead free with wrong label but will try matching the temperatures you used. Also the new stuff spits hot stuff - I guess flux - the last one did not.
I bet the solder you purchase may have been old or stored improperly and the rosin in the core to leak away. You can still use the solder but purchase electronic grade rosin to use on the solder joints.
Thanks for the info , want to get back to electronics , used to repairs tv from 1970 to 1990 the technology changed a lot in the following years, becoming more confusing...
it would be helpful if you or someone technically minded would do a RUclips video about the specialized tips and tip materials required for lead-free soldering versus the older style tips that were designed for leaded solder. I have a sneaking suspicion that all modern manufacturing of soldering iron tips is geared towards working with lead-free solder, and whenever you see an online seller's page or a catalog of soldering equipment they don't always necessarily tell you if a tip was designed for leaded solder or for lead-free; and they almost never tell you what the tip is made of or what it is plated with. It would be nice if they stamped some kind of code on the tips so it would be obvious!
Interesting point!
Thank you.
your toothbrush doesn't comply with RoHS
You are correct but think about it?
The toothbrush soaked with alcohol will not develop a static charge. If you are working on a pcb with static sensitive parts then it would be very wise to use something like a brush with horse hair bristles.
@@1929fordhotrod No, he is not. I think he is meant to say comply with ESD safe, IPC or whatever. I worked with reworker.
amazing !
Good, straightforward, and informative video. Thanks!
Thank you Sir. I'm building now my first electronic gadget ever, and I was wondering for two hours what am I doing wrong with lead-free solder (EU citizen). After temperature change it's going quicker :)
I just got my 600,610, & Jstd certificates . Now I gotta learn to SOLDER LOL
mike dunmore, that is a lot of courses at once. Are you working for a contractor or a big company. Those courses don’t come cheap! Hope you did well! I learned DOD STD 2000-1 back in the day. Very strict discipline. My teacher was probably the best tech I’ve ever worked for!
I'm having an extremely tough time using lead-free solder. If you have two soldering irons that both do 750 degrees, but one is 50w and the other is 100w, will it apply twice the amount of heat to the part you're trying to solder? I'd prefer to use lead-free but... it's nearly impossible for me to use. With my station anyways.
thank you
I have to use lead free at work, thanks to rohs, and I rarely have my temp over 650. the highest I've gone was 740 when I putting some 10awg wire in solder cups. For a majority of what I do though, I stay between 620 and 650.
I'm a newbie trying to solder four 18-20 awg wire together. I'm having so much trouble getting the other side of the wire to melt my solder at 750. In your experience, how long do you hold the iron to the wire at the 610-650 range on this type of wire?
You missed the most important point: *Lead is toxic* and you _must_ wash your hands after handling it.
Especially if you have your own children, or are going to be around other people's children.
He also forgot to mention tin whiskers phenomenon
Hello Sir. Hey, Can you make a video opposite of this procedure??? ...meaning desoldering those pads; one for the 40/60 leaded solder; and one for that lead-free solder that I loath so much, and have more interest in. Please, if it’s not too much to ask. Nice video.
The tips degrade faster because copper is soluble in molten tin. This is a problem with Sn-Pb solders, but the higher Sn content in Pb-free solder alloys exacerbates this problem.
Using 40w pencil, I can't melt led free. Just bought 60/40 and it works as expected.
Just curious, does the conductivity differ between the two?
You can keep that lead free solder ,when I get in my kits I concider it trash or I give to someone I don't like,the lead free solder is the worst stuff .I been useing lead solder for over 40 years ,I tried that lead free stuff it sucks in so many ways.you have to use high temps.,it brittle,etc.there have been many complaints on it
That's totally fine for personal projects, but if you want to sell anything through a legitimate business then RoHS standards become important and lead solder becomes the trash. :-)
Can i ask u. Is FINEX lead good to use for components? It say super flux cored solder wire 60/40, or it is just for wire only? Idk which one to use, i just wondering to broke my board
I'm using lead-free solder from Alpha, SACX Plus 0307 - it is more expensive than usual lead-free solder as it contains silver. The surfaces are shinier compared to your lead-free solder. It is still harder to solder than with 37/63, and the joints are not as good looking - but I think it's a worthy tradeoff for health and environmental reasons. I bought the solder for a watch wit the PCB exposed, and now I have a dedicated iron and sponge for it, and barely use any leaded solder. Oh, one more thing - you normally get your PCB's coated with leaded solder - make sure to pick the ENIG finish from your PCB manufacturer.
Is there a difference in resistance between both types?
Incredible that even at 2x this video felt slow.
I have a problem I have a 45 watt iron and lead free solder and I tryed tinning my solder and it just bubbles up and falls off
+David Law - get some fine steel wool, acid flux for plumbing, the stuff that looks like car grease and dip the hot tip into the acid flux and melt 60/40 solder on the tip, wipe clean the the steel wool and repeat till the tip is tinned. Before you start look at the tip, it should be corrosion free.
Tin/Silver/Copper would be a nice demo. I like that mix and it seems to work very well but it is very temperature sensitive. Lead-Free solder does require a different technique.
why is the tip 600-700 degrees F when the 60/40 requires 361-374 degrees F? Curious because when i tried to solder earlier my solder would not melt at 425F for lead free so i went to 675 and it still takes like 3 seconds to melt.
You aren't just melting the solder. You have to bring the materials that you are joining together up to temp so that they'll accept the solder as well. Which can be a pain, depending on how big the stuff you're soldering.
How did you get that voice? ...
I need this type of vocals..
for 30w soldring iron which solder i use
It doesn't matter. Ideally you would keep one iron for lead free and a second for lead based solder if you are working in a controlled shop.
Does Lead free and Leaded solder affect durability and performance? or is it simply appearance differences?
Not at all. I find people just learning to solder or the inexperienced has issues using lead free.
Isn’t that a solder bridge bottom right?
650℉=343℃, 750℉=400℃
Stupid Fahrenheit: 340 °C for 60 / 40 and 400 °C for lead free solder in most of the world except US.
Thank you!
Roeland Voogd, I have an "Aoyue" vacuum desoldering station on my bench at work, the digital readout is in centigrade only, and I usually keep it set at 370, which seems to be an ideal temperature for desoldering lead-based solder and even lead-free to some extent , although if I have to unsolder a lead-free joint I often add a little bit of leaded solder to it first with the pencil iron (especially if it is a double sided PCB with plated through- holes), which makes the solder flow much more easily up into the vacuum sucker, and sometimes I will turn the solder sucker temperature up to around 400 centigrade. Mostly we work on older equipment that has lead-based solder, and we always resolder with lead-based Kester solder that has 3% silver.
I agree it is absolutely stupid to use Farenheit if the whole world uses Celsius!
I personally prefer using leaded solder when repairing consoles, its easy to work with, i just wear gloves and wash up after im done using it
Is 800F really necessary for lead-free? I've been using 550-600F and it seems to work well enough for my lead-free spool. Melting point is 430F.
I am surprised you are getting the lead free to flow properly at that low of a temperature. I use 650F for 60/40 solder and 750F for lead free working quickly with little time on the pcb.
Do not confuse the melting point of a material with the point at which a material will flow and bond to the second material.
There's a good chance your thermistors are different and/or located in a different part of the iron which would explain the flow temperature being close to the same but indicated temperature being different. A lot of irons also have significant temperature dips, so if you want to do joint after joint a higher starting temperature is necessary to account for the drop.
Those tracks look pretinned tho - with lead or lead free I wonder...
ok cuz I notice that lead free solder is eating through my tip it took a little chunk out
+David Law - lead free solder is harder on the soldering iron tips mainly due to the higher temperatures that are required for lead free solder. Also, lower quality soldering iron tips are made of poor quality metals and will not last very long. Sounds like its time to replace your tip.
+1929fordhotrod thank u for your help im gona stick to 60/40 lead solder and put a new tip on it
did you add flux before soldering?
+bri w - I do not apply flux to through hole pcb's. I would use flux on surface mount soldering.
+1929fordhotrod many thanks :-)
Hi,
Can I ask your opinion on lead free low temp [285°] solders with silver added (so joints are less brittle) pastes and solders for use with electronics?
Or some of the other mixes that combine silver, copper, tin, or nickel?
I've heard some Pros state they [lead free solders] don't flow as nicely, don't get in between, they're too high a temperature, joints aren't as strong, among other reasons when just referring to lead free.
I don't know if that's referring to smd soldering or other areas of electronic soldering, or just in general, but, your demonstration here... it looked like it flowed fine. And if the manufactures are using less free, I would think it's strong enough and gets where ever it needs to flow to just fine.
With all the new mixes... which do I choose? Paste or Roll, this lead free or that lead free?
I haven't soldered in years... But, I'm getting back into it..just ordered a cheap but well reviewed hot air/iron station to work on some of my hobby stuff which are pretty dang small. Guess that's why they call them "micro".
That and fixing stuff for friends if and when I can... I just want to learn to do it right first, before learning short cut methods.
The biggest problem most people have with lead free solder is not using the correct iron temperature. If the iron is hot enough the solder will flow. When soldering SMT always use liquid flux on the board. For SMT I tend to use very fine solder and work under magnification. The lead free I use is sn99.3/cu0.7 mix. Remember to buy quality solder from a well know supplier. If flux core solder is not stored properly, the flux dries up and the solder will not work on a pcb unless you add additional liquid flux. This is another reason why people have difficulty soldering.
As a hobbyist why not stick to 60/40 solder.
can i use flux with lead free
AdrianM Yep
Here’s the facts, lead free joints look terrible even when applied by highly skilled hand solder technicians. I have not known any which can yield a solder joint of the quality of a tin/lead or tin/lead/silver alloy that are pure eutectics with an RMA flux core. It just isn’t possible. I have made inquiries in search of such a formulation that is lead free, but has the same shiny appearance, the same ability to withstand g forces, vibrations, physical and mechanical stresses and thermal inversions as the RMA formulations aforementioned. They may try, but in my experience, that airplane just won’t fly!
650°F 343°C 750°F 399°C
How can solder become sodder?
Like candy cane - gets thinner and thinner... I think!
I've found that lead free solder doesn't flow as nice into wires when soldering two wires together. It doesn't melt and absorb into the wire. It has to be right where the soldering tip is. I like the 60/40 for any soldering I do. As long as your careful and wash up properly after using it, you'll be fine. People freak out when they hear lead for no reason
If handled correctly leaded solders are safe to use.
I suspect that your soldering iron might not be hot enough to use lead free solders which is why it would not wick into the wire connection.
+1929fordhotrod yeah it probably wasn't. It was a cheaper iron without variable temperature. I still like how the leaded solder flows better than lead free
Yes that is a problem with cheaper irons. Lead free requires almost 100 degrees F hotter temperature tosolder. If you like 60/40 solder stick with it.
+1929fordhotrod yeah. It was at school so we didn't have very nice irons. I'm going to be upgrading at home to a weller with the base and all. Perfect for hobby stuff. And I have my weller soldering gun for doing strands of wire
Lead is only a problem when used around food, or when used around products that handle things that hold liquids for drinking. Paranoia is rampant these days, and that is because we worry about what might happen rather than what will happen, or has happened. As we have too many that refuse to take responsibility for their own actions in the world today. If someone deliberately causes harm they need to be held accountable, if someone deliberately harms themselves it should not be societies fault. Also far too many are looking for excuses for not doing their job in law enforcement, saying it is ones word against another when the physical evidence says otherwise.
@1929fordhotrod : What do you think about lead free Sn48Bi52 (48% Tin, 52% Bismuth) solder ? Have you used it ?
No, not yet. I understand it is gaining in popularity due to the lower working temperatures.
how dangerous is it soldering with lead based solder ? since the fumes it generates is know to cause Cancer. which one would you recomend Lead Free or Lead Based ?
+Nawaf Ebrahim - When you see smoke while soldering, the fumes are not from the solder burning but from the flux or rosin that is contained in the solder core. If you are careful and solder in a well ventilated room you should have no problems. Some will even use a small muffin fan to move the fumes away from the work area.
Lead fumes are more likely to cause neurological problems, not cancer.
Avoid skin contact with the solder. As it is pulled through your fingers, you will notice a grey mark...thats lead and it will get absorbed into the skin. Wash your hands after soldering.
I am never going to use lead free solder! I don't like it, and it doesn't seem to work nearly as well!
what about SOC35 (Sn99% Ag.3% Cu .7%)?
Its fine also, just remember to use a high soldering iron temperature.
I use lead free because grandkids may eat any drops they find.
It has a better surface finish
The lead free looks somewhat like a bad solder joint. My favorite solder is 63/37 as I can easily rework if making a mistake. Also it makes possible assembling things that are far more difficult, that I would likely damage things with if using the lead free. I have tried different lead free, and all are difficult at best to get the kind of results possible with the 63/37.
soLder, not soder, whys the 'L' silent?
In french : brasure = solder / soudure = weld, but when we're talking about electronic lead sodler we're saying "soudure"
Lawmakers suck sometimes; banning lead from solder wires was a bad move.
Who cares if it's "reflective" or not. If it does the job, *of course* non-toxic (or much less toxic) solder is preferred, always (not just for individual health of who is soldering, but the generally, globally even, it's *paramount* that we work with least toxic materials possible, possibly with no toxic material at all).
Although I've heard that lead-free joints "fail" (I guess it's the word) easily, but maybe it's only the case for either low-quality solder or low-quality soldering practice (or maybe both!). Will anybody confirm or contradict this my intuition.
I hate leadfree solder so much. Maybe it have some point in massproduction (but solder is source of less then 4% Pb on dump, lets compare with accumulators lol), but in individual production at home or small office or in repair shop it absolytely senseless in my oppinion. Lead free solder also have tendency for bad joint which lead to devices failures.
What are the real differences between lead-free and lead-in soldering?
Higher soldering temperatures are required for lead free.
Lead is poisonous and lead-free is not poisonous.
i hated lead free very much
Better your soldering iron tips degrading quicker, than your brain. I think we can all agree on that!
I'm surprised no one mentioned a tin pest... keep using lead free solder. Things will eventually fall apart and manufacturers will just celebrate...
You should really invest in some ESD-safe brushes; toothbrushes may create static that can damage many semiconductors.
A static charge cannot be established in an alcohol soaked bush. This could happen if you used the brush dry on the pcb
Lead free solder is garbage to work with and overstresses the components with heat .I will never ever use lead free solder on any of my circuits . just look at the new cell phones today , if you drop it the lead free balls on the ic's crack and you now have a paper weight.
So to summarize, lead free are SHIT and you should go for Leaded solder.
My iron can't work with this stupid lead free stuff.
Then you have a bad soldering iron.
Thanks to environmentalists back in 2005 they banned lead soldering and made launch ps3 systems die from heat and cracked lead free solder balls
@RDE Lutherie lmao
Lead free sucks. Stick with 60/40.
From my base of knowledge, only the military industry is still using the leaded solder. You can say what you want, at the end of the day the leaded solder is superior to the lead free. If you consider the different elements that are contained in the lead free soldering wire, it is clear that there is no elasticity and no conductivity like leaded solder offers. It was almost unknown back in the day what
a " cold " solder joint is as there was leaded solder in the industry. Nowadays it`s a common thing. There are several mixtures of lead free solder, but to be honest all of them are not really near the quality of a good leaded solder mixture. In my opinion, it is on some point right to make this rule and regulation for industries. As a private person, you are not really harming the environment that much with it. The government is also not really caring about your health. Same crap is told to us with electric cars. You don`t need a high grade education to know what lithium causes to the environment and how many power plants you need when all cars that are today on the streets are replaced by this ecologically fine ones.
60/40_lead solder works everytime, lead free solder is a joke make dull brittle solder joints that takes to much heat ,even then it makes deal connection the will crack ,people that do any real soldering will use lead solder.
SOL DER, SOL DER , not effing sodder. For Dogs sake...
Sodder? what's sodder? Most countries use SOLDER for PCB's.
Shutup.
just how we say it in the US. same way we say Aluminum differently.
hahahaa... when I saw "sodder" I thought about "soda" for a moment... never heard about that one... I wonder how many people say "sodder" instead of "solder" =]
For the last time for those ignorant about it: 'solder' is clearly pronounced 'soder' in the US. That is its correct pronounciation in the US.
So, do you have soddiers in your army?
Good video. But could you please lose the lawyer stuff. It's an insult to anyone is semi intelligent. Because of that I find your video offencive.