Yellow Sac spiders, and they can cause lots of problems with your car. They are attracted to the smell of gasoline and often will weave webs and egg sacs in the evaporative canister vent lines. Mazda even had to issue a recall due to the spiders plugging up the components.
I am not a mechanic, I have no experience and thanks to your video I was able to do the job in two days. Thank you very much for your video and excellent information.
@@jeralynrefugia928 To remove the screw, I applied penetrating w 40 two days before. And then with the help of an impact gun it came off without a hitch.
Youngest kid and I did a timing change on his K20. Installed Honda OEM parts and front main seal, timing chain cover "O" ring type seal also since we were in there. Had an issue getting the new timing chain tensioner to fully release. Had to manually manipulate the arm on the tensioner to get it to fully release. Everything popped into place. Noticed slack between the cams when rotating the engine by crank pully nut. Good thing we checked everything multiple times. The job itself is straight forward. Pain in the ass to get stuff out of the way. Car was a crank, no start with no error codes. I would expect a crank/cam sensor code. Verified spark with plugs removed, injectors electrically firing with noid lights. Sprayed starting fluid. Engine would not hit. Pulled valve cover and checked timing marks on the cam. Off by 2 teeth. Scopecammed pistons and valves, no damage.
I just ran across this video today. Five years later, you’re still helping him. I’ve been asking the dealership over and over again what that sound was. And none of them could diagnose it. And just this week it started sounding like it was slightly out of time. And I’m getting a high number of misfires on two of the cylinders. It only throws a code in the morning when it’s cold but I’ve had that sound for over 60,000 miles.
I looked at several “how to” videos on timing chain replacement and yours was hands down the best. Your camera work was crystal clear, closeup shots on the location of timing chain marks is the best. Narration was clear and relevant to the job, ( no unnecessary banter ). Additional info like wrench size to turn or secure the camshaft or utilizing a helper to reinstall the timing chain cover is helpful. Great job and appreciate you filming and sharing this on You Tube.
100% echo this statement. Everything is done so well. I am a professional filmmaker, who spends all of his money on more camera gear, instead of owning a nice car, so I drive a 210,000 mile/25 year old Benz. My only piece of advice for you would be to grab yourself a Rode Wireless Go microphone, and just clip it onto your hoodie before filming. It’ll take your audio to the next level for a couple hundred bucks.
ATTENTION: Very nice job first of all and love the added torque specifications because this was very difficult information to find to be consistent. In both of the following instances, relating to the Crankshaft pulley bolt torque, the threads are cleaned and threads/bolt platform lubed with oil. Reusing the old Bolt: torque to 36 ft/lb , then rotate additional 90 P'B deg.; Using a new bolt: torque to 130ft/lbs then loosen and torque to 36 ft/lbs then 90 P'B deg. Also, note I could NOT get the bolt loosened as many also experienced, the ticket was using the special 19mm crankshaft pulley/ harmonic balancer impact socket Lisle PN 77080. Boom, DONE! Thanks again, you did great and I hope anyone finds this helpful.
Good freaking video. The best explained I've seen so far. I likely need this done, but am a little hesitant but this video makes me more confident in trying it.
There’s nothing wrong with the VTC sprockets or chains. Here’s the problem . All North America market K- motors are spec’d for either 0W20 or 5W20 GL-5 oil and ridiculously long oil change intervals. GL-5 oils have had the zinc levels dropped drastically to protect the catalytic converters. The very same engines that are shipped to European assembly plants are spec’d for either 0W40 or 5W40 European spec oils. Not only do they have a higher viscosity but they also have higher levels of zinc and detergents. The ONLY reason N.A. Markets engines are running 20wt oils is because of CAFE fuel economy requirements the manufacturers have to meet. I’ve been a Honda tech for 25 yrs. I purchased my 2005 Accord new and since its had 2000 miles on it I have ran 0W40 European car synthetic in it at 7500 mile intervals. Never had a chain, tensioner, sprockets. Clean as a pin inside and totally quiet. Uses no oil between changes. My oil supplier for my shop has an 03 he uses as his company car. That thing has over 250,000 on it and never had the valve cover off. He’s run 5W40 CJ-4 diesel oil in his the whole time . Though higher zinc levels may shorten catalytic converter life I’d much rather spend 30 minutes and $140 for a bolt on converter than tearing the front cover off of my engine and dealing with worn chains, and worn VTC sprockets. It’s a no-brainer for me.
Good insight there Wayne. I've known K series to be bullet-proof. Never heard of any problems with VTC sprockets. Timing chain in K series usually last the life of the car (if not tuned).
Thanks for creating and sharing this video. Mine is starting to screech at start up especially when cold. You clearly, precisely, and concisely covered everything needed for doing this job. Thank you so much!🙂
Wow! Great job man! I have to consider doing this over a long weekend. I had the VTC actuator replaced TWICE over that terrible noise when starting. The timing belt is due for a change. If the economics are there to do it myself I'll have to give it a shot. You have a beautifully cleaned engine and great job with the very clear video shots of important parts. Thanks!!!
What a great video, my acura has 157k miles on it and the VTC actuator just failed a week ago. This video will help me replacing all of those parts. Awesome video.
Holy crap, I didn't realize that rattling sound was a Vtec actuator. I thought I wasn't getting oil to the cams, but that sound is precisely what I heard. Today, it continued after the CRV started and then it would not restart again. I assume the actuator is broken, and possibly the chain.
My accord is a 2012 2.4 v4 I have 227k kilometers of abuse as well as traveling doing all sorts of things in my area the temperature gets to 44 and it’s still runs like nothing I give it 10/10 in reliable
I got a 9th gen si. Basically same engine as your accord and it's got the start up rattle from the vtc gear. Supposedly it doesn't damage anything according to honda. Great video man. I am from Ontario too!
This is more than reliable!! I've beaten on this thing for 120k km's and its been nothing be great to me. I've had to replace the standard stuff like brakes, tires, and other stuff, but modications aside, it has cost me PEANUTS to run this thing..
milanmastracci one question though, arent distribution chain cars supposed to have the chain last forever? I know distribution belts on the other hand need to be changed every 100,000km because the rubber cracks and deteriorates. But everyone i asked tells me chains last for the entire lifetime of the car...even if it doesnt, 200,000km is nothing for you to have a stretched chain. Am i wrong? Or did your car have something else that made the chain age prematurely? (Im about to buy a european version civic which has a chain too) . On motorcycles the chain is recommended to be changed at 100,000km, but these motors work at 3 times the speed of that of a car
My accord is throwing a Crankshaft position sensor code and going into limp mode. new senor on and all the voltages are in spec but still goes to limp mode. Timing chain does make noise on startup, do you think this could be my issue?
These are two different types of K24Z3 engines. One is 10.5:1 CR with you timing sprocket. And the other one is 11:1 CR with 4-inch high timing sprocket. DO NOT MESS UP. If you own a ACURA TSX, HONDA SPORIOR OR HONDA ACCORD EURO buy 4-inch one.
Hey Milan, I've been watching your 2009 Accord Coupe Videos. By the way GREAT JOB. I also have an 09 Accord Coupe purchased new in 2009 it's an EX-L 4cyl, Polished Metal Metallic , black leather interior. The same base car as yours except mine is the 5 Speed Automatic. I haven't done the major mods that you've done but I have done some, rear spoiler, 18" Honda 7 spoke wheels, added all the trunk and hood liners that were stock on the 6cyl. I also scored the Vtec nameplate for the trunk lid on the opposite side from the Accord label. Mine also did not come with fog lights and the installation of them is a bit much for me at over 70 years of age. Honda wants WAY to much to-install them. QUESTION, in a few vids you state that you consistently red-line the engine. Do you think that has contributed to your timing chain & vtec problems? I ask because a friend of mine in California has a 2008 same engine with over 250,000 miles (over 402,000K) and she says she'll get in her Accord and drive cross country, no worries. The only maintenance shes done is Honda USA (NOT DEALER) recommended services and her car is a 5 speed automatic so it stays well below red-line. I do enjoy your videos. This is my third Honda, I've owned a 2001, 2003 and now the 2009. I don't drive as much as I used to so I only have 65,000 miles (105000K). Thanks for reading, regards Tom. P.S. I have the K&L cold air intake system, but I've been waiting for my extended warranty to expire. One day I'll do a Video.
I will soon will be going thru the same thing, and the mechanic said, once we are replacing the timing chain, you might as well replace the vtc actuator and the water pump, what do you think about that, also I will getting the parts, question the oem vtc actuator is going for almost 200, and I see an aftermarket goin for less than 100, question will you make the spent on the oem or the aftermarket? I thank you before hand and hope to hear from you
I got a Denso VTC sprocket but everything else is OEM straight from a dealer's parts counter. FixItAngel uses the Denso on his fix and AFAIK Denso is also an OEM provider for Honda...so it's not like I'm just buying some cheap knockoff. However the sprocket itself is made in China, sooo...
Really wish you would have talked about locking and unlocking the VTC actuator. Did you install it locked or unlocked? Did you lock or unlock it after installing? Also what size wrench did you use to hold the camshaft while trying to remove the bolt? Also on your list of torque specs I believe crank pulley bolt is 36lbft plus a 90 degree turn with the threads oiled
So it was shipped to me locked, and I unlocked it before putting it on the camshaft and before putting the timing chain on it. Once it was unlocked I torqued the camshaft bolt to the VTC actuator and then timing everything from there.
Just one question and 1 comment: 1. Why you did not lock the cams when you where removing the sprocket and the actuator??? 2.Before installing the valve cover, you could turn the engine over at the crank manually to recheck timing marks.
I have a question. Approximately how much did it cost you for all that timing equipment? I think I'm getting ready to have to do that exact same thing to my 2.4 2008 Honda Accord and I'm not sure if I will be able to afford it so I need to know what I'm going to be spending if I have to do it
That is crazy that sound they make when they go bad. ive heard brand new Mazda 4 cylinders and toyotas sound like that. Id be happy with a good ole h22 or h23
Absolutely love your videos brother just subscribed!! I have the same Honda Accord Coupe as you but mine is Belize Pearl Blue. Your videos have been very helpful keep up the good work!!
Can't tell in the video, but I hope you made sure that VTC Actuator was locked after torquing it to the cam before you put the chain on. They come unlocked out of the package
Question about the torque specs for the crank bolt on reusing the old. So your spec sheet say torque it to only 36ft lbs? Not 130 ft lbs? Is that correct? Wouldn't that bolt would come undone while driving? Thanks advance
Hondabond is actually Three Bond and Three bond is Cheaper (you get more). There are other names like Yamaha bond etc...all ThreeBond. Great stuff been using it for years on everything from Chainsaw builds to Diesel Engines.
Just curious what's the point of using Hondabond on those round posts inside the timing cover? I noticed that my K24 had Hondabond on those posts from the factory, but I didn't replace it since it obviously wasn't sealing anything and I have been driving it for a year with no problems at all. I'm thinking it's just an error in Honda's service info.
Will a stretched timing chain always throw a code (CEL), or should this be done as preventative maintenance? I have a 2009 Accord that has 146K miles on it, and it has that VTC actuator rattle on a cold start. It lasts for less than 1 second, but it's always there. There is conflicting information about all of this crap. Some Honda mechanics say don't worry about it but be sure to keep oil levels up. While others say that the rattle noise will lead to the timing chain jumping teeth before too long. So needless to say, I am confused. However, if I know that a CEL will be triggered 'before' the situation becomes critical, then I'll feel a bit more at ease.
Quick question, I have a k24 with no chain installed , do I need to find top dead centre before installing the chain , or do I just align the mark with the chain on the crank ? Thankyou
What is your opinion about porting/drilling out oil passages and oil pump to increase the flow? Also porting out water passages? Increasing diam near termo?
As long as it doesn't affect the structural integrity of it, I would 100% approve on the oil side of it. For the water passages, I woundn't, as you want to maximize how much surface are the coolant flows over to lower help cool the engine
This video was really helpful thanks. I finally find what that grinding noise is when turn on car. That wheel thing need changing and also u said u got back your power which I have lost. Think my timing chain need changing am on 121k and I don't see any record saying chain was done
Great tips in regards to this particular jobs. I am looking to buy a 2010 accord with 177000 miles on it. Do you think I need to replace the chain or not? Unless the previous owner done it already. Thanks
What about the smaller chain at the bottom i notice u didn't replace that one just wondering becuz I have a 2009 Acura tsx at 235k and i get that same noise at start up mostly when the ac is on at idle also when the compressor cuts on i hear it mostly.
My 2010 and 2013 Honda CR-Vs have that same vtc actuator problem, makes that same sound only when in cold out and at first start up. My question is ....can I just leave it alone ? Or what would happened if I don’t fix it? (The 2010 has 120 thousands miles and the 2013 has 60 thousands miles) great videos !!
Edgardo Amado your mileage may vary....but I’ve put over 100k miles on my car since it started rattling. Not sure if that’s ok or not but I did it. At 240k miles now it rattles at every startup no matter of hot or cold so I think it’s time to address the problem
How did your CRV hold up, it's been 5 years since you posted? I have a 09 Accord with the same rattle, but just on initial startup, like your CRV. I'm going to leave it alone and keep my fingers crossed that it doesn't get worse. I have heard that many people just keep the oil level up and never have a problem with it, aside from the rattling noise. I will change out all of the oil screens on the system, just to cover that aspect of oil flow, but swapping out that VTC actuator isn't a guaranteed fix, many have done this only to get the same rattle again soon afterwards. The timing chain is a different animal though. If that gets stretched then you have to replace it, but I'm not going to do that until I have to, hopefully it'll throw a code when it needs to be replaced.
@@jarrettbarnett7656 How did your car (timing chain) hold up? I'm not planning on doing anything either about the rattle, except for keeping the oil level up. I've heard that many people just keep driving it this way with no issues.
K20z3 vtc is harder than this. I think you have to block two holes on intake camshaft and use compressed air to unlock the 50 degree vtc off z3 camshaft. Should be a fun job for me haha
hey man, I have a little bit of oil leaks out of the chain case cover ( the metal piece with an " X " logo that is hold by 3 bolts ) and I am about to replace it! Is it easy to remove without remove the entire cover? I have same engine as your but 4 doors. Thank you for the input!
Bro, I have the same problem you think I need a new engine or just replace the chain. Car crank up but still won't start but I don't my engine shot but it did turn off while driving .
Quick question if i were to do the oil pump chain also how do you suggest i could hold the engine up while I'm working on both chain's...its my first Time chain change.
I would like to know they told me about a timing chain but I bought a timing belt for a 2006 Honda Accord and the two timing to 20 00 chain 2016 is supposed to work but the belt don't work so I was looking at your program and they told me that I have something going on with my valves which I didn't understand I need to explain to me before I try to do this myself can you help me I have bought parts that I need to send back and get the right parts this is my first time trying this I have worked on cars way before I got 60 years old it's just something I can do or something I need to pay somebody to do can you help me thank you
I have a 8th gen aswell and I recently found metal shavings in the oil pan is it possible it’s the actuator or timing chain causing that I’m hoping it’s not the piston or something more serious
DID YOU SEE THE SPIDER AT 13:12?
I was JUST about to comment on that 😖
🕷🕷🕷🕷🕷
@@ardentvibe6917 ¹
Yellow Sac spiders, and they can cause lots of problems with your car. They are attracted to the smell of gasoline and often will weave webs and egg sacs in the evaporative canister vent lines.
Mazda even had to issue a recall due to the spiders plugging up the components.
I am not a mechanic, I have no experience and thanks to your video I was able to do the job in two days. Thank you very much for your video and excellent information.
how’s u remove ur crank bolt?
@@jeralynrefugia928 To remove the screw, I applied penetrating w 40 two days before. And then with the help of an impact gun it came off without a hitch.
Im assuming you have to turn the crankshaft to get the sprockets to top dead center right? (Punchholes up top)
@@SrColon309 I needa be like you
@@jeralynrefugia928put a breaker bar in the hole of the control arm and right socket turn the engine on it will get loose
Youngest kid and I did a timing change on his K20. Installed Honda OEM parts and front main seal, timing chain cover "O" ring type seal also since we were in there. Had an issue getting the new timing chain tensioner to fully release. Had to manually manipulate the arm on the tensioner to get it to fully release. Everything popped into place. Noticed slack between the cams when rotating the engine by crank pully nut. Good thing we checked everything multiple times. The job itself is straight forward. Pain in the ass to get stuff out of the way. Car was a crank, no start with no error codes. I would expect a crank/cam sensor code. Verified spark with plugs removed, injectors electrically firing with noid lights. Sprayed starting fluid. Engine would not hit. Pulled valve cover and checked timing marks on the cam. Off by 2 teeth. Scopecammed pistons and valves, no damage.
I just ran across this video today. Five years later, you’re still helping him. I’ve been asking the dealership over and over again what that sound was. And none of them could diagnose it. And just this week it started sounding like it was slightly out of time. And I’m getting a high number of misfires on two of the cylinders. It only throws a code in the morning when it’s cold but I’ve had that sound for over 60,000 miles.
I looked at several “how to” videos on timing chain replacement and yours was hands down the best. Your camera work was crystal clear, closeup shots on the location of timing chain marks is the best. Narration was clear and relevant to the job, ( no unnecessary banter ). Additional info like wrench size to turn or secure the camshaft or utilizing a helper to reinstall the timing chain cover is helpful. Great job and appreciate you filming and sharing this on You Tube.
I'm happy to hear that Ken! Thank you
100% echo this statement. Everything is done so well. I am a professional filmmaker, who spends all of his money on more camera gear, instead of owning a nice car, so I drive a 210,000 mile/25 year old Benz. My only piece of advice for you would be to grab yourself a Rode Wireless Go microphone, and just clip it onto your hoodie before filming. It’ll take your audio to the next level for a couple hundred bucks.
ATTENTION: Very nice job first of all and love the added torque specifications because this was very difficult information to find to be consistent. In both of the following instances, relating to the Crankshaft pulley bolt torque, the threads are cleaned and threads/bolt platform lubed with oil. Reusing the old Bolt: torque to 36 ft/lb , then rotate additional 90 P'B deg.; Using a new bolt: torque to 130ft/lbs then loosen and torque to 36 ft/lbs then 90 P'B deg. Also, note I could NOT get the bolt loosened as many also experienced, the ticket was using the special 19mm crankshaft pulley/ harmonic balancer impact socket Lisle PN 77080. Boom, DONE! Thanks again, you did great and I hope anyone finds this helpful.
excellent information thank you very much, because I missed the pulley twice due to lack of more torque.
Good freaking video. The best explained I've seen so far. I likely need this done, but am a little hesitant but this video makes me more confident in trying it.
OMG! I was wondering why my dad's accord made a grinding noise when he starts it! very glad I watched this vid!
Yep, this would be why :)
I am very happy, my car has regained the strength and economy it had when I bought it many years ago.
There’s nothing wrong with the VTC sprockets or chains. Here’s the problem . All North America market K- motors are spec’d for either 0W20 or 5W20 GL-5 oil and ridiculously long oil change intervals. GL-5 oils have had the zinc levels dropped drastically to protect the catalytic converters. The very same engines that are shipped to European assembly plants are spec’d for either 0W40 or 5W40 European spec oils. Not only do they have a higher viscosity but they also have higher levels of zinc and detergents. The ONLY reason N.A. Markets engines are running 20wt oils is because of CAFE fuel economy requirements the manufacturers have to meet. I’ve been a Honda tech for 25 yrs. I purchased my 2005 Accord new and since its had 2000 miles on it I have ran 0W40 European car synthetic in it at 7500 mile intervals. Never had a chain, tensioner, sprockets. Clean as a pin inside and totally quiet. Uses no oil between changes. My oil supplier for my shop has an 03 he uses as his company car. That thing has over 250,000 on it and never had the valve cover off. He’s run 5W40 CJ-4 diesel oil in his the whole time . Though higher zinc levels may shorten catalytic converter life I’d much rather spend 30 minutes and $140 for a bolt on converter than tearing the front cover off of my engine and dealing with worn chains, and worn VTC sprockets. It’s a no-brainer for me.
O
Good to know!
Yikes ! Ive been running 0w20 in my tsx for 100km , is it safe to swith over to 5w40?
Skyee just change over to full synthetic 5w30 and you will be fine
Good insight there Wayne. I've known K series to be bullet-proof. Never heard of any problems with VTC sprockets. Timing chain in K series usually last the life of the car (if not tuned).
Thanks for creating and sharing this video. Mine is starting to screech at start up especially when cold. You clearly, precisely, and concisely covered everything needed for doing this job. Thank you so much!🙂
Wow! Great job man! I have to consider doing this over a long weekend. I had the VTC actuator replaced TWICE over that terrible noise when starting. The timing belt is due for a change. If the economics are there to do it myself I'll have to give it a shot. You have a beautifully cleaned engine and great job with the very clear video shots of important parts. Thanks!!!
What a great video, my acura has 157k miles on it and the VTC actuator just failed a week ago. This video will help me replacing all of those parts. Awesome video.
I'm happy to help! I hope it goes well for you
I really wish he noticed that spider while he was recording.. it would have been really entertaining for all of us
Great video...maybe should mention having to put a jack under the engine and having to remove the left engine mount
Dude your vid saved my girlfriends car that noise start happening three days ago for her Accord coupe & keep up the good vids
Glad to hear it Dino :)
@milanmastracci do you replace the timing chain only when you see a code ? Or does it NEED to be changed at certain intervals?
Great job, yanks! The various sound bites of the bad VTEC actuator was very helpful!
Glad it helped! Cheers Kevin
Congratulations man .. thanks to this video i fix my 06 acura tsx same proces.. thanks..
Holy crap, I didn't realize that rattling sound was a Vtec actuator. I thought I wasn't getting oil to the cams, but that sound is precisely what I heard. Today, it continued after the CRV started and then it would not restart again. I assume the actuator is broken, and possibly the chain.
Ive got a 2004 Honda Accord LX 2.4L w/ 280k miles with no check engine light or issues. Good ol' K24 engine lol
My accord is a 2012 2.4 v4 I have 227k kilometers of abuse as well as traveling doing all sorts of things in my area the temperature gets to 44 and it’s still runs like nothing
I give it 10/10 in reliable
Who else seen that spider
Yeah, tried to squish it...
Going to attempt this next month possibly once i get all of the parts thanks for the video gave me a good understanding on what i need to accomplish.
I'm glad to hear it Owen!! Send me an email at milanmastracci@gmail.com when you're doing the job if you have any questions
Is it possible to replace just the tensioner, and that might solve the issue?
Is your accord's molding assembly for the windows melted away? Can you do a video how you replace it.
I got a 9th gen si. Basically same engine as your accord and it's got the start up rattle from the vtc gear. Supposedly it doesn't damage anything according to honda. Great video man. I am from Ontario too!
I'm thinking about getting the Accord as my first car. I need something reliable to commute 80km to school. What do you guys think?
This is more than reliable!! I've beaten on this thing for 120k km's and its been nothing be great to me. I've had to replace the standard stuff like brakes, tires, and other stuff, but modications aside, it has cost me PEANUTS to run this thing..
Definitely a good car. I have one aswell just wish the 4cylinder would have more power. Maybe a 6 is something to look ay
milanmastracci one question though, arent distribution chain cars supposed to have the chain last forever?
I know distribution belts on the other hand need to be changed every 100,000km because the rubber cracks and deteriorates.
But everyone i asked tells me chains last for the entire lifetime of the car...even if it doesnt, 200,000km is nothing for you to have a stretched chain.
Am i wrong? Or did your car have something else that made the chain age prematurely? (Im about to buy a european version civic which has a chain too)
.
On motorcycles the chain is recommended to be changed at 100,000km, but these motors work at 3 times the speed of that of a car
don trump Timing chains can stretch over time, causing the timing to to be inaccurate
Tun3d Accordingly i get that, but in cars what is the usual lifespan of timingchains? 200,000km?
Seems a bit too short to me...
Is it wise to also replace the oilpump chain and tensioner when everything is taken apart? Or do those rarely fail?
Thank you for the video is great information contained! very useful and needed!🙏
My accord is throwing a Crankshaft position sensor code and going into limp mode. new senor on and all the voltages are in spec but still goes to limp mode. Timing chain does make noise on startup, do you think this could be my issue?
I also need to know how to remove those things out the way to access the area you’ll be working on
Honda literally used this engine in most of it's cars. I think the Element has a variant of the K24 in it.
Removing your vtc you didn’t need air pressure to remove that pin that locks it into place ?
Yeah... but we don't know why
@@xb7778 No. only need air in the VTC if you lock it before torqueing the bolt down. Must be torqued down in the unlocked position.
Can you please upload the part where you take of the old vtc actuator and install the new one!!?????
Thanks
Which timing kit did you purchase? Or recommend
How does a FTC sctuator go bad? It looks like it’s just a sheet with sprockets. What could actually fail with that?
These are two different types of K24Z3 engines. One is 10.5:1 CR with you timing sprocket. And the other one is 11:1 CR with 4-inch high timing sprocket. DO NOT MESS UP. If you own a ACURA TSX, HONDA SPORIOR OR HONDA ACCORD EURO buy 4-inch one.
Hey Milan, I've been watching your 2009 Accord Coupe Videos. By the way GREAT JOB. I also have an 09 Accord Coupe purchased new in 2009 it's an EX-L 4cyl, Polished Metal Metallic , black leather interior. The same base car as yours except mine is the 5 Speed Automatic. I haven't done the major mods that you've done but I have done some, rear spoiler, 18" Honda 7 spoke wheels, added all the trunk and hood liners that were stock on the 6cyl. I also scored the Vtec nameplate for the trunk lid on the opposite side from the Accord label. Mine also did not come with fog lights and the installation of them is a bit much for me at over 70 years of age. Honda wants WAY to much to-install them. QUESTION, in a few vids you state that you consistently red-line the engine. Do you think that has contributed to your timing chain & vtec problems? I ask because a friend of mine in California has a 2008 same engine with over 250,000 miles (over 402,000K) and she says she'll get in her Accord and drive cross country, no worries. The only maintenance shes done is Honda USA (NOT DEALER) recommended services and her car is a 5 speed automatic so it stays well below red-line. I do enjoy your videos. This is my third Honda, I've owned a 2001, 2003 and now the 2009. I don't drive as much as I used to so I only have 65,000 miles (105000K). Thanks for reading, regards Tom. P.S. I have the K&L cold air intake system, but I've been waiting for my extended warranty to expire. One day I'll do a Video.
I will soon will be going thru the same thing, and the mechanic said, once we are replacing the timing chain, you might as well replace the vtc actuator and the water pump, what do you think about that, also I will getting the parts, question the oem vtc actuator is going for almost 200, and I see an aftermarket goin for less than 100, question will you make the spent on the oem or the aftermarket?
I thank you before hand and hope to hear from you
I got a Denso VTC sprocket but everything else is OEM straight from a dealer's parts counter. FixItAngel uses the Denso on his fix and AFAIK Denso is also an OEM provider for Honda...so it's not like I'm just buying some cheap knockoff. However the sprocket itself is made in China, sooo...
I would like to know how those ECCPP parts were? I read somewhere that thay are crap
Really wish you would have talked about locking and unlocking the VTC actuator. Did you install it locked or unlocked? Did you lock or unlock it after installing? Also what size wrench did you use to hold the camshaft while trying to remove the bolt?
Also on your list of torque specs I believe crank pulley bolt is 36lbft plus a 90 degree turn with the threads oiled
I need exact details, if you can share please that would be helpful.
So it was shipped to me locked, and I unlocked it before putting it on the camshaft and before putting the timing chain on it. Once it was unlocked I torqued the camshaft bolt to the VTC actuator and then timing everything from there.
How did you remove the old VTC actuator without unlocking it? Which required removing the cam shaft holders and pulling the camshaft??
Just one question and 1 comment:
1. Why you did not lock the cams when you where removing the sprocket and the actuator???
2.Before installing the valve cover, you could turn the engine over at the crank manually to recheck timing marks.
I like this type of tutorial so much better.
Bro I love u for this because i needa do this job RN
Same here. Video was very helpful after watching I definitely have confidence in my mechanical skills to do the timing on my own Coupe!!
Hey! The upper chain guide link you have posted isn't the right one, could you post the right one? Thanks
I have a question. Approximately how much did it cost you for all that timing equipment? I think I'm getting ready to have to do that exact same thing to my 2.4 2008 Honda Accord and I'm not sure if I will be able to afford it so I need to know what I'm going to be spending if I have to do it
That is crazy that sound they make when they go bad. ive heard brand new Mazda 4 cylinders and toyotas sound like that. Id be happy with a good ole h22 or h23
Absolutely love your videos brother just subscribed!! I have the same Honda Accord Coupe as you but mine is Belize Pearl Blue. Your videos have been very helpful keep up the good work!!
I have a 2010 Belize blue pearl as well 👍
Is they’re a special tool to hold the crankshaft in place when torquing the bolt for the pulley?
How did you remove the crankshaft pulley
Really informational video. I have a different Honda but also with a chain, and it's cool to see all of the insides.
My vtc is going out now at 231,000 about to do the same thing guy . Thanks for the video
Happy to help :)
What are you thoughts on after market Honda timing chain parts vs OEM?
Great video! Thank you
Worn, so there is more Gap in the links. Not stretched.
Bill Abdallah To be fair, referring to a chain as 'stretched' is very common.
DracoRemixer absolutely!
so did you use oem or did you use that eccpp kit you have in the video. how is it holding up so far
In this video, I changed the worn parts to ECCPP parts, but very shortly after had to swap them out as they prematurely failed. OEM or nothing
Can't tell in the video, but I hope you made sure that VTC Actuator was locked after torquing it to the cam before you put the chain on. They come unlocked out of the package
Yes it was :)
Awesome, just checking. I'm a Honda mechanic and I've seen people forget to lock them before.
Thanks
,
oh I should ask: when you remove that motor mount - does that mean you have to support the engine from below?
Yes!! I would like to know that as well
@@ecarlos56 Yes. please support the motor while the mount is out.
Great DIY Video!!!👍🏾👍🏾 gives me more confidence in trying this out myself
You can do it!
You should make a video that goes in depth
I can’t find a video with the engine in side the bay while replacing the timing chain & tensioner
Question about the torque specs for the crank bolt on reusing the old. So your spec sheet say torque it to only 36ft lbs? Not 130 ft lbs? Is that correct? Wouldn't that bolt would come undone while driving? Thanks advance
Hondabond is actually Three Bond and Three bond is Cheaper (you get more). There are other names like Yamaha bond etc...all ThreeBond. Great stuff been using it for years on everything from Chainsaw builds to Diesel Engines.
Where did you buy your time in chain kit because in the link it says do not buy this and it also does not have the gold links
omg a spider at 13:03
😂😂😂
That spider was the potential helper to be in the wheel well to help hold the chain cover in place but he didn’t bother to ask the spider. Lol
Rui Nunes hahahaha
Creepy one haha
Do you remove the oil b4 the repair?
Just curious what's the point of using Hondabond on those round posts inside the timing cover? I noticed that my K24 had Hondabond on those posts from the factory, but I didn't replace it since it obviously wasn't sealing anything and I have been driving it for a year with no problems at all. I'm thinking it's just an error in Honda's service info.
Will a stretched timing chain always throw a code (CEL), or should this be done as preventative maintenance? I have a 2009 Accord that has 146K miles on it, and it has that VTC actuator rattle on a cold start. It lasts for less than 1 second, but it's always there.
There is conflicting information about all of this crap. Some Honda mechanics say don't worry about it but be sure to keep oil levels up. While others say that the rattle noise will lead to the timing chain jumping teeth before too long. So needless to say, I am confused.
However, if I know that a CEL will be triggered 'before' the situation becomes critical, then I'll feel a bit more at ease.
What manufacturer for the parts kit?
Quick question, I have a k24 with no chain installed , do I need to find top dead centre before installing the chain , or do I just align the mark with the chain on the crank ?
Thankyou
I wish you showed the whole process.
What is your opinion about porting/drilling out oil passages and oil pump to increase the flow? Also porting out water passages? Increasing diam near termo?
As long as it doesn't affect the structural integrity of it, I would 100% approve on the oil side of it. For the water passages, I woundn't, as you want to maximize how much surface are the coolant flows over to lower help cool the engine
Does the oil pump chain not need to be replaced with the timing chain ?
Good job dude. My rsx had a leak on the side cover which space was very minimal compared to the accord.
How are these parts holding up? I got quoted over 500$ for OEM parts, and that’s a little out of my range.
I'll like to know
My lower timing chain was a little longer than the new one I got and the mechanic said it was the wrong chain. Couldn't have stretched in length?
What is K20 or K25,? I never heard such
Holding the cam in place with a wrench will score it and ruin it though???
Most cams have a hex area to put a wrench on.
@@henrynewton8809 oh, interesting
This video was really helpful thanks. I finally find what that grinding noise is when turn on car. That wheel thing need changing and also u said u got back your power which I have lost. Think my timing chain need changing am on 121k and I don't see any record saying chain was done
I did this exact repair on a 2013 accord lx..at 139k..the piston on the chain tensioner failed, and did a complete re-chain, vtc , replacement…
Good video a lot of work made look soooo easy thank you very much my friend
Great tips in regards to this particular jobs. I am looking to buy a 2010 accord with 177000 miles on it. Do you think I need to replace the chain or not? Unless the previous owner done it already. Thanks
Did you have to drain the oil first?
No I did not. The oil was held in the oil pan. If I wanted to replace the oil pump chain, I would have had to drain the oil before starting the job.
I would crank the engine by hand before turning it on and ensure the engine doesn't bind.
What about the smaller chain at the bottom i notice u didn't replace that one just wondering becuz I have a 2009 Acura tsx at 235k and i get that same noise at start up mostly when the ac is on at idle also when the compressor cuts on i hear it mostly.
My 2010 and 2013 Honda CR-Vs have that same vtc actuator problem, makes that same sound only when in cold out and at first start up. My question is ....can I just leave it alone ? Or what would happened if I don’t fix it? (The 2010 has 120 thousands miles and the 2013 has 60 thousands miles) great videos !!
Edgardo Amado your mileage may vary....but I’ve put over 100k miles on my car since it started rattling. Not sure if that’s ok or not but I did it. At 240k miles now it rattles at every startup no matter of hot or cold so I think it’s time to address the problem
If your engine is a PZev motor, the actuator is warrany for 150k miles. Let the dealer do it no charge.
How did your CRV hold up, it's been 5 years since you posted? I have a 09 Accord with the same rattle, but just on initial startup, like your CRV. I'm going to leave it alone and keep my fingers crossed that it doesn't get worse. I have heard that many people just keep the oil level up and never have a problem with it, aside from the rattling noise.
I will change out all of the oil screens on the system, just to cover that aspect of oil flow, but swapping out that VTC actuator isn't a guaranteed fix, many have done this only to get the same rattle again soon afterwards. The timing chain is a different animal though. If that gets stretched then you have to replace it, but I'm not going to do that until I have to, hopefully it'll throw a code when it needs to be replaced.
@@jarrettbarnett7656 How did your car (timing chain) hold up? I'm not planning on doing anything either about the rattle, except for keeping the oil level up. I've heard that many people just keep driving it this way with no issues.
K20z3 vtc is harder than this. I think you have to block two holes on intake camshaft and use compressed air to unlock the 50 degree vtc off z3 camshaft. Should be a fun job for me haha
when your done do you need to rotate the engine... and will the timing line up every 2 rotations or is the timing just to get it all set togeather
hey man, I have a little bit of oil leaks out of the chain case cover ( the metal piece with an " X " logo that is hold by 3 bolts ) and I am about to replace it! Is it easy to remove without remove the entire cover? I have same engine as your but 4 doors. Thank you for the input!
Hie.can you do a video on removing sludge/cleaning the oil pan on the 2007 VW Polo please
Got this problem on a 3.5 l v6 accord haven’t found a video on how to replace it
Bro, I have the same problem you think I need a new engine or just replace the chain. Car crank up but still won't start but I don't my engine shot but it did turn off while driving .
What is the honda model number for the camshaft part??
On the vvt gear intake cam, torque it down the turn the cam to lock it? Before installing the chain ?
Quick question if i were to do the oil pump chain also how do you suggest i could hold the engine up while I'm working on both chain's...its my first Time chain change.
How would you fix a miss alignment on the VTC and camshaft
It only goes on one way, you can’t misalign it. Make sure the lock pin is unlocked before you tighten it down.
What year is ur Accord????? Mines a 2015, same noises
I would like to know they told me about a timing chain but I bought a timing belt for a 2006 Honda Accord and the two timing to 20 00 chain 2016 is supposed to work but the belt don't work so I was looking at your program and they told me that I have something going on with my valves which I didn't understand I need to explain to me before I try to do this myself can you help me I have bought parts that I need to send back and get the right parts this is my first time trying this I have worked on cars way before I got 60 years old it's just something I can do or something I need to pay somebody to do can you help me thank you
You took of the vtc actuator without taking of the cam holders(brackets)
Is that good or?
I have a 8th gen aswell and I recently found metal shavings in the oil pan is it possible it’s the actuator or timing chain causing that I’m hoping it’s not the piston or something more serious
good video, detailed and clear quality