Thermocouple wire is thermocouple wire. When I worked for a defense contractor, we used to make our own thermocouples for doing temp readings on various processes, one being the temp variation of water escaping from a specific sized orifice at specific pressures. We made our own from a length of thermocouple wire. We twisted the end together, and soldered it in place, then connected it to a strip chart recorder. No resistor needed. It works based on the voltage differentials of two dissimilar metals at certain known temps. We had dozens of reels at 1000' each, and probably threw away more in one monththan any person will own in their lifetime. There are no resistors on them. Thanks for your great videos Elvis!
His point is, the thermocouple wire changes resistance with temperature, so in effect, it IS a variable type resistor. Not everybody knows or uses technical jargon.
@@1965l88 My point was that a lot of people pay extra for thermocouple wire as hookup wire when it's not needed. When you are dealing with technical subjects, you need to learn the 'jargon'. Words mean something.
Nice 3 video's about using a PID controller, a big thumbs up. It motivates bullet casters to have go at it. My compliments But I will shed some light on the subject regarding the thermocouples since the company that I work for (based in The Netherlands) produces temperature sensors and temperature controllers and PID systems on a daily bases. Reading all the comments I see some misunderstanding about measuring temperature with a Thermocouple (TC). The PID is setup for a "K" but it also might be setup for a "J" TC. For the lead melting temperature range the "J" is slightly more superior, but a "K" will do the job just fine since it's not a matter of live or death. But the correct usage of a TC sensor is! In the initial (1st) video you attached the "bare" wires directly to the spout, in a industrial setting that's a huge no-no. To start with there are 3 TC setup's: Grounded, Ungrounded and Exposed ( Exposed = like you do). Most PID controllers do need a "grounded" TC for optimum usage. Or you must use the metal mesh protection sleeve/mantle as a additional ground (earth), that is also connected to the controller, I'm not sure if this controller is suitable for that set up. Secondly a would use (I do for my personal use as well for casting my bullets) a "grounded" TC in a metal protection tube (like you received in the 1st video). Even better buy one made from "mineral insulated Inconel-600", this material can be bend and shaped to your desire. (it's a shame I can not attach pictures otherwise I gladly showed it). It's hanging over the edge "U shaped", about 3/8" free from the bottom and the wall of the pot. The sensor tube has a 1/8" diameter, and is extremely fast and super accurate this way. An other suggestion: measure the lead it self "NOT" the melting pot (or parts of it)! What your are doing is measuring the pot/spout temperature not the actual lead it self. The "reaction time" of the PID is always slower with this kind of setup than measuring the lead it self. Plus it's less accurate. This is where your temperature differences come from. I get that it is for a do it your self usage perfectly fine, but you have to make up for your self what kind of measurement (the lead pot or the pot it self) what works for you. I do design, develop and produce TC's and PID's for industrial melting pots and believe me it's absolutely better to measure the lead it self. You can work your way around it like you do now (due to your excellent tests) and learn what temperature you like to use. To add to that, currently you measure in between the pot pot wall and the outside wall (primarily the pot/spout it self). This particular environment is full with " trapped air" and air is a good insulator of temperature (see here an other part of the temperature difference). You will see that the PID controller will become much more faster, much more stable and your lead mixture more uniform/consistent if you measure the lead it self. Needless to say, the temperature probe/sensor might be in the way, but I hang it in between the pot and the aluminum thermostat housing "at 12 o'clock". It doesn't bother me at that location. I can go on and on with more tips and tricks regarding PID's and TC's but this will help you with some of the basics of proper temperature measuring. Keep up doing these video's, I like them and those from Fortunecookie45LC... Awesome !
hey Peter Stuart... Thankyou for a wealth of information. .. This kind of thing is welcome here. .. I see you found my Facebook page, You'll see we like to share info and photos there for all to enjoy! Good to have ya!
Good job. I worked for a big company in the research development lab. We used a lot of Pids in refrigeration development to check temp. It is two different materials , when heated it causes a voltage , the hotter , the more voltage is produced.
Others have pointed out that the thermocouple junction is not a resistor. But I would like to add to that. In actual fact the "magic" in a thermocouple is not even in the junction where the wires meet. The magic is in the wires themselves. Every wire that is hot at one end and cold at the other has a voltage difference between the ends. But you can never measure this directly because your meter probe would be hot too, when it touched the hot end... So, you use two wires with different thermoelectric coefficients. Then measure the _difference_ in the voltages generated. So to do this the two wires need to be connected together electrically at the hot junction to ensure that the ends are at the same voltage. That's all there is to it. You can, in fact, spot weld the thermocouple wires separately to the pot. But that runs the risk of introducing errors due to other effects (electochemical, for example), so it is best to have the wires welded directly together and for the weld to be chemically clean, which is why the junction is generally made for you. In a previous job, heat-treating steel samples, I would just cross the ends of bulk thermocouple wire and spot-weld them to the sample. Then after the heat-treat (in a molten salt bath) I would cut off a few inches, and do it all again until the wires were too short.
I am a couple vidoes behind in Chris' PID series so I need to see exactly what he's using for his temp sensing. In our case, these are plain old Type K thermocouples. There is no resistor at the end. It is just a welded junction at the end that looks like a ball. Do a Google search for "thermocouple welder" to see the sort of machines you can use to make the welded junction. Having said all that...I believe your new way of connecting is definitely superior. Protecting that junction weld is definitely a good idea.
hey Johnny's Reloading Bench. .. yeah maybe it is... No chance of crushing or cutting the wire. But you seen where the nut and pot give us a nice bevel for the weld to sit in. Just trying to get ahead and get information out quickly to folks that will be installing these. . I think your pot ,thermocouple is probably just fine the way it is... I did cast with 3/4 pot of lead after this and was getting the exact same reading. . FYI.
Good idea, thanks. I'm building a PID controller to be used for powder coating and bullet casting. About calling a Thermocouple a "resister"... it's not, not even close. There is another device called a Thermistor, but that not what you have. Thermocouple, OK?
Hi guys i have had two of the 20# pots go bad with in 2 months of purchasing them. Any one have a reason why my pots are dying so soon after purchase. I do use them for about 4 hours a day but that shouldn't be a factor. Also i clean my pot thoroughly after each use. can someone please give me some reason for my pots going bad after about 2 months. I am bewildered as to why they go bad. thanks. You can email me at l_dewey@yahoo.com
PyroRob69 is correct. What you have there is a thermocouple, not resistor. The bead is indestructible but careful to not nick the wire even a little or it will break eventually. You need to insulate the wire and bead, no electrical contact with anything, by encapsulating it (1000+degF paint) or sandwiching it in heatproof (kapton or fibreglas) tape. Otherwise strong signals will override the millivolts generated by the bimetal junction. Otherwise, very good presentation!
Hey elvis you could weld the orignal bushing where the cable orginaly came from with a mig magwelder or tig with stainless wire to the underside of the pot, the tube can also be bent
Great stuff. Thanks for doing all these videos. I have been considering Casting my own for a while and these videos give a lot of confidence I can likely pull it off without to much of a learning curve.
Hay my lost jersey brother . I new you wouldn't stop till you got it right. EARRL at its best . That storm will be in jersey on Thursday in the am . Good job Professor.
So Elvis I won't repeat my soliloquy from Chris Bs video. Clearly you shouldn't be worried about grounding the weld which is a thermocouple junction and not subject to being crushed. The most important factor in application of a thermocouple to measure a temperature is sustained intimate contact with the materiel being measured. While your first iteration clearly did this the change you have implemented is not a bad thing nor good. Fortunately it doesn't matter much since Johnny's design is very forgiving. As long as there is no air circulation in the space below the pot the geometry of the connection will result in adequate control. Allow some time for temps to settle after you add ingots or sprues to the mix and you should have no problems. Thanks for giving us this insight into your casting process.
Sidenote: if your "temperature" goes super cold when you turn the heater on, you've wired it backwards! This doesn't happen with a resistor. They don't make resistors that can go very hot or very cold - range is -30deg to +200deg. That type K thermocouple you're using is good up to about 1100degF
I have found K-type thermocouples on eBay that are designed for cylinder head temp measurements. They come with the sensor end pre-made inside the shaft of a sealed round hole lug end that you can get in various inside diameters. For this pot and ID of 10mm or 12mm would suffice. The 10mm ID might need a little reaming. These are rated for -100F to +1800F. Cheap too only 10 bucks US including shipping! Search eBay for "K Type Thermocouple Temperature Sensors with 10mm id Washer for Cylinder Head"
Elvis you are doing it the hard way just slide a complete thermocouple in the hole you have. I have been using mine that way for the last six months. my Lyman lead thermometer and my PID stay within 10 degree.
Nice revision to the set up. it's a good idea to have it touching the spout so you are measuring what you are pouring. I'm betting the temperature indication rises for a second when you pour. The thermocouple wire was probably safe enough the old way, but the new connection is going to be a bit more secure.
Hey My physicist friend! Radmonkeyboy.... Yeah, It worked out nice, Might get a little more life out of this connection. the temp rose a few degrees with each pour, about like the last hook up did if I remember correctly. This One is touching the bottom of the pot just to the side of the nut, The other was touching the bottom of the pot and the spout.... Working good. I'll highlight a few things im learning about it when I do a Casting video!
elvis ammo, I was thinking about it, and you could use a terminal connector pop riveted to a hole you drill in the pot housing bottom to hold the wire in place and have the thermometer touch the bottom middle of the pot. it would give you a more "average" temperature.
Elvis am wondering if you could tell me if I can use soft lead to make 9mm booletts for a Glock. am wanting to make 125 grain an shoot around 900 to a 1000 ft for target practice only
Hey Elvis ammo. Good job. That junction of the two wires is what I thought the case did. Learn everyday . Sounds like you got the worst of the big storm that went south of us in the north state Btw. What brand sockets do you have there Good looking stuff
You can buy a 1.5 inch thermal couple why don’t you drill your pot and mount the thermal couple inside your pot near the bottom. The thermal couple is threaded and should mount and attach just like the spout.
The PM i sent his was before he did his test video. I thought he was going to have grounding issues like i experienced with my design. I was wrong. Which helped me better understand why i was having ground issue when he wasn't.
Um, It is not a resistor. A Thermocouple is simply the two dissimilar metal wires welded together. A thermal resistor is called a Thermistor. A Thermocouple junction generates a tiny voltage based on the temperature of the junction. A Thermistor does not generate a voltage, it simply changes resistance based on temperature. Do a quick Google search Thermistor vs Thermocouple. More info than you ever want to know about them.
No, it doesn't. It act's like a thermocoouple, because it is a thermocouple. It's a weld spot. Nothing to worry about crushing. It is connected to a thermocouple amplifier in the PID controller. A thermocouple joint doesnt't change resistance like a thermistor.
+Craig W... So do you say this way is correct with a connector, And the other way of wedging it under the nut is correct? (one is good as the other? they both give me the same reading!
I think either way will give similar results. Just make sure the thermocouple junction is making good contact. Air does not transfer heat all that good. It'll be interesting to see how the temperature changes when you are actually using the pot. I like where you are going with this.
Don't jump down my throat but what's the purpose of a PID thermocouple if the Lee pot already has a temp control knob? I'm new to casting so I'm still trying to learn and haven't had time to watch many videos
oh elvis, i don't think the stainless nipple and a steel pot would affect the temp, your only talking, under 800 degrees, not the melting point of stainless or steel, they should pretty much the temp.
Hey Shotdog.... The pot is steel of some kind but not Stainless. I wish it was, then I could melt zinc in it as well! The ball is actually touching the pot. My readings haven't changed so that's good! : )
elvis, I'm thinking of breaken down and buying one, the turkey cooker is getten kinda old, (getten used to this chair), i'll call lee and see about those nipples and you can get back to the zinc test.
Hey Todd Newsome! Whatever ya call it .... It's working like champ! I think it's a nice connection, Minimal contact except the tip, Longevity if nothing else!
elvis ammo you may know but the thermocouples with the thermistor at the can not allow the wires to touch or if they do the coupler now is a dead short and will read 0 or max on their PID or this is at least my experience
Thermocouple wire is thermocouple wire. When I worked for a defense contractor, we used to make our own thermocouples for doing temp readings on various processes, one being the temp variation of water escaping from a specific sized orifice at specific pressures. We made our own from a length of thermocouple wire. We twisted the end together, and soldered it in place, then connected it to a strip chart recorder. No resistor needed. It works based on the voltage differentials of two dissimilar metals at certain known temps.
We had dozens of reels at 1000' each, and probably threw away more in one monththan any person will own in their lifetime. There are no resistors on them.
Thanks for your great videos Elvis!
His point is, the thermocouple wire changes resistance with temperature, so in effect, it IS a variable type resistor. Not everybody knows or uses technical jargon.
@@1965l88 My point was that a lot of people pay extra for thermocouple wire as hookup wire when it's not needed. When you are dealing with technical subjects, you need to learn the 'jargon'. Words mean something.
Nice 3 video's about using a PID controller, a big thumbs up. It
motivates bullet casters to have go at it. My compliments
But I will shed some light on the subject regarding the thermocouples
since the company that I work for (based in The Netherlands) produces
temperature sensors and temperature controllers and PID systems on a
daily bases. Reading all the comments I see some misunderstanding about
measuring temperature with a Thermocouple (TC).
The PID is setup for a "K" but it also might be setup for a "J" TC. For
the lead melting temperature range the "J" is slightly more superior,
but a "K" will do the job just fine since it's not a matter of live or
death. But the correct usage of a TC sensor is!
In the initial (1st) video you attached the "bare" wires directly to the
spout, in a industrial setting that's a huge no-no. To start with there
are 3 TC setup's: Grounded, Ungrounded and Exposed ( Exposed = like you
do). Most PID controllers do need a "grounded" TC for optimum usage. Or
you must use the metal mesh protection sleeve/mantle as a additional
ground (earth), that is also connected to the controller, I'm not sure
if this controller is suitable for that set up.
Secondly a would use (I do for my personal use as well for casting my
bullets) a "grounded" TC in a metal protection tube (like you received
in the 1st video). Even better buy one made from "mineral insulated
Inconel-600", this material can be bend and shaped to your desire. (it's
a shame I can not attach pictures otherwise I gladly showed it). It's
hanging over the edge "U shaped", about 3/8" free from the bottom and
the wall of the pot. The sensor tube has a 1/8" diameter, and is
extremely fast and super accurate this way.
An other suggestion: measure the lead it self "NOT" the melting pot (or
parts of it)! What your are doing is measuring the pot/spout temperature
not the actual lead it self. The "reaction time" of the PID is always
slower with this kind of setup than measuring the lead it self. Plus
it's less accurate. This is where your temperature differences come
from. I get that it is for a do it your self usage perfectly fine, but
you have to make up for your self what kind of measurement (the lead pot
or the pot it self) what works for you. I do design, develop and
produce TC's and PID's for industrial melting pots and believe me it's
absolutely better to measure the lead it self. You can work your way
around it like you do now (due to your excellent tests) and learn what
temperature you like to use.
To add to that, currently you measure in between the pot pot wall and
the outside wall (primarily the pot/spout it self). This particular
environment is full with " trapped air" and air is a good insulator of
temperature (see here an other part of the temperature difference). You
will see that the PID controller will become much more faster, much more
stable and your lead mixture more uniform/consistent if you measure the
lead it self. Needless to say, the temperature probe/sensor might be in
the way, but I hang it in between the pot and the aluminum thermostat
housing "at 12 o'clock". It doesn't bother me at that location.
I can go on and on with more tips and tricks regarding PID's and TC's
but this will help you with some of the basics of proper temperature
measuring. Keep up doing these video's, I like them and those from
Fortunecookie45LC... Awesome !
hey Peter Stuart... Thankyou for a wealth of information. .. This kind of thing is welcome here. .. I see you found my Facebook page, You'll see we like to share info and photos there for all to enjoy! Good to have ya!
will do!
The bead is a weld. 2 wire of different materials are simply welded together to form the thermocouple.
Good job. I worked for a big company in the research development lab. We used a lot of Pids in refrigeration development to check temp. It is two different materials , when heated it causes a voltage , the hotter , the more voltage is produced.
Others have pointed out that the thermocouple junction is not a resistor. But I would like to add to that.
In actual fact the "magic" in a thermocouple is not even in the junction where the wires meet. The magic is in the wires themselves.
Every wire that is hot at one end and cold at the other has a voltage difference between the ends. But you can never measure this directly because your meter probe would be hot too, when it touched the hot end...
So, you use two wires with different thermoelectric coefficients. Then measure the _difference_ in the voltages generated. So to do this the two wires need to be connected together electrically at the hot junction to ensure that the ends are at the same voltage.
That's all there is to it. You can, in fact, spot weld the thermocouple wires separately to the pot. But that runs the risk of introducing errors due to other effects (electochemical, for example), so it is best to have the wires welded directly together and for the weld to be chemically clean, which is why the junction is generally made for you.
In a previous job, heat-treating steel samples, I would just cross the ends of bulk thermocouple wire and spot-weld them to the sample. Then after the heat-treat (in a molten salt bath) I would cut off a few inches, and do it all again until the wires were too short.
I am a couple vidoes behind in Chris' PID series so I need to see exactly what he's using for his temp sensing. In our case, these are plain old Type K thermocouples. There is no resistor at the end. It is just a welded junction at the end that looks like a ball. Do a Google search for "thermocouple welder" to see the sort of machines you can use to make the welded junction.
Having said all that...I believe your new way of connecting is definitely superior. Protecting that junction weld is definitely a good idea.
hey Johnny's Reloading Bench. .. yeah maybe it is... No chance of crushing or cutting the wire. But you seen where the nut and pot give us a nice bevel for the weld to sit in. Just trying to get ahead and get information out quickly to folks that will be installing these. . I think your pot ,thermocouple is probably just fine the way it is... I did cast with 3/4 pot of lead after this and was getting the exact same reading. . FYI.
Good idea, thanks. I'm building a PID controller to be used for powder coating and bullet casting.
About calling a Thermocouple a "resister"... it's not, not even close. There is another device called a Thermistor, but that not what you have. Thermocouple, OK?
Elvis I've been using mine since your first video and it's still working just fine can't believe how good this thing works
Hi guys i have had two of the 20# pots go bad with in 2 months of purchasing them. Any one have a reason why my pots are dying so soon after purchase. I do use them for about 4 hours a day but that shouldn't be a factor. Also i clean my pot thoroughly after each use. can someone please give me some reason for my pots going bad after about 2 months. I am bewildered as to why they go bad. thanks. You can email me at l_dewey@yahoo.com
Older video. But they make a ring thermocouple you can install directly under the nut
PyroRob69 is correct. What you have there is a thermocouple, not resistor. The bead is indestructible but careful to not nick the wire even a little or it will break eventually.
You need to insulate the wire and bead, no electrical contact with anything, by encapsulating it (1000+degF paint) or sandwiching it in heatproof (kapton or fibreglas) tape.
Otherwise strong signals will override the millivolts generated by the bimetal junction. Otherwise, very good presentation!
Hey elvis you could weld the orignal bushing where the cable orginaly came from with a mig magwelder or tig with stainless wire to the underside of the pot, the tube can also be bent
Great stuff. Thanks for doing all these videos. I have been considering Casting my own for a while and these videos give a lot of confidence I can likely pull it off without to much of a learning curve.
I like having mine reading the lead itself, even if the thermocouple is a little bit in the way. Not as clean of a setup but more consistent IMO.
Hay my lost jersey brother . I new you wouldn't stop till you got it right. EARRL at its best . That storm will be in jersey on Thursday in the am . Good job Professor.
hey brother Nick.... some dang good rain coming your way!
So Elvis I won't repeat my soliloquy from Chris Bs video. Clearly you shouldn't be worried about grounding the weld which is a thermocouple junction and not subject to being crushed. The most important factor in application of a thermocouple to measure a temperature is sustained intimate contact with the materiel being measured. While your first iteration clearly did this the change you have implemented is not a bad thing nor good. Fortunately it doesn't matter much since Johnny's design is very forgiving. As long as there is no air circulation in the space below the pot the geometry of the connection will result in adequate control. Allow some time for temps to settle after you add ingots or sprues to the mix and you should have no problems. Thanks for giving us this insight into your casting process.
Sidenote: if your "temperature" goes super cold when you turn the heater on, you've wired it backwards!
This doesn't happen with a resistor. They don't make resistors that can go very hot or very cold - range is -30deg to +200deg.
That type K thermocouple you're using is good up to about 1100degF
I have found K-type thermocouples on eBay that are designed for cylinder head temp measurements. They come with the sensor end pre-made inside the shaft of a sealed round hole lug end that you can get in various inside diameters. For this pot and ID of 10mm or 12mm would suffice. The 10mm ID might need a little reaming. These are rated for -100F to +1800F. Cheap too only 10 bucks US including shipping! Search eBay for "K Type Thermocouple Temperature Sensors with 10mm id Washer for Cylinder Head"
Elvis you are doing it the hard way just slide a complete thermocouple in the hole you have. I have been using mine that way for the last six months. my Lyman lead thermometer and my PID stay within 10 degree.
hey Jim Creamer... yeah that's interesting, these things are very sensitive. .. thanks for the info. . that's another way to do it...
Works for me. I run my lead at 750 degree.
Nice revision to the set up. it's a good idea to have it touching the spout so you are measuring what you are pouring. I'm betting the temperature indication rises for a second when you pour. The thermocouple wire was probably safe enough the old way, but the new connection is going to be a bit more secure.
Hey My physicist friend! Radmonkeyboy.... Yeah, It worked out nice, Might get a little more life out of this connection. the temp rose a few degrees with each pour, about like the last hook up did if I remember correctly. This One is touching the bottom of the pot just to the side of the nut, The other was touching the bottom of the pot and the spout.... Working good. I'll highlight a few things im learning about it when I do a Casting video!
elvis ammo, I was thinking about it, and you could use a terminal connector pop riveted to a hole you drill in the pot housing bottom to hold the wire in place and have the thermometer touch the bottom middle of the pot. it would give you a more "average" temperature.
Elvis am wondering if you could tell me if I can use soft lead to make 9mm booletts for a Glock. am wanting to make 125 grain an shoot around 900 to a 1000 ft for target practice only
I’ll be doing a video on that very soon stay tuned.
Hey elvis ammo, that looks much more secure. Appalachian engineering at its finest.
Hey elvis ammo, so that's what "EARRL" means ;)
Hey Elvis ammo. Good job. That junction of the two wires is what I thought the case did. Learn everyday . Sounds like you got the worst of the big storm that went south of us in the north state Btw. What brand sockets do you have there Good looking stuff
You can buy a 1.5 inch thermal couple why don’t you drill your pot and mount the thermal couple inside your pot near the bottom. The thermal couple is threaded and should mount and attach just like the spout.
What is all the noise?
I knew when Chris said check your p.m. that he was going to give you some good information
The PM i sent his was before he did his test video. I thought he was going to have grounding issues like i experienced with my design. I was wrong. Which helped me better understand why i was having ground issue when he wasn't.
oh I'm bad but you give good advice
Thx. i do my best with what knowledge i have.
Hey Timothy Robinson... You knew there was trouble coming huh! He's a good man.....
Um, It is not a resistor. A Thermocouple is simply the two dissimilar metal wires welded together. A thermal resistor is called a Thermistor. A Thermocouple junction generates a tiny voltage based on the temperature of the junction. A Thermistor does not generate a voltage, it simply changes resistance based on temperature. Do a quick Google search Thermistor vs Thermocouple. More info than you ever want to know about them.
Well for our use it ACTS like a resistor.
No, it doesn't. It act's like a thermocoouple, because it is a thermocouple. It's a weld spot. Nothing to worry about crushing. It is connected to a thermocouple amplifier in the PID controller. A thermocouple joint doesnt't change resistance like a thermistor.
+Craig W... So do you say this way is correct with a connector, And the other way of wedging it under the nut is correct? (one is good as the other? they both give me the same reading!
I think either way will give similar results. Just make sure the thermocouple junction is making good contact. Air does not transfer heat all that good. It'll be interesting to see how the temperature changes when you are actually using the pot. I like where you are going with this.
hey Craig W .. After the video I run a 3/4 pot of lead with almost exact results.. The thermocouple is in fact touching the pot. Looks good!
Don't jump down my throat but what's the purpose of a PID thermocouple if the Lee pot already has a temp control knob? I'm new to casting so I'm still trying to learn and haven't had time to watch many videos
The league controller knob is extremely inaccurate. You never know truly what the temperature is unless you have a PID or a thermometer.
elvis, i think there may be too much exposure to the air, you need some high heat tape or something to cover it up?
oh elvis, i don't think the stainless nipple and a steel pot would affect the temp, your only talking, under 800 degrees, not the melting point of stainless or steel, they should pretty much the temp.
Hey Shotdog.... The pot is steel of some kind but not Stainless. I wish it was, then I could melt zinc in it as well! The ball is actually touching the pot. My readings haven't changed so that's good! : )
elvis, I'm thinking of breaken down and buying one, the turkey cooker is getten kinda old, (getten used to this chair), i'll call lee and see about those nipples and you can get back to the zinc test.
Why not just take a 100mm Thermocouple probe and stick in from the top into lead. Which will be accurate the measuring the steel from outside.
That was the original design,but it got in the way.
Sounds like rain on the homestead :-) or is it the dryer ?
hey Nick J. .. man... rain like crazy! could of been a Harley, making all that racket!! ; )
This guy is difficult to listen to regardless of how much info he has.
You just racist.
Uh thermistor but still not exactly that
Hey Todd Newsome! Whatever ya call it .... It's working like champ! I think it's a nice connection, Minimal contact except the tip, Longevity if nothing else!
elvis ammo nice gratz glad it's working for ya
elvis ammo you may know but the thermocouples with the thermistor at the can not allow the wires to touch or if they do the coupler now is a dead short and will read 0 or max on their PID or this is at least my experience