This is my favourite premium P&S of them all. I also have the Minilux, 35Ti, R1, MJU-II etc in my collection and the T2 is my favourite by far. After I repaired mine, it has never failed me and I'm more than satisfied with the results it produces.
I love to watch this kind of review...good background music, lovely photos sample, easy to understand n complete cam review with very neat timeline. Just perfect.
This review reminds me how much I love my G1 - I went through 3 rolls last week. Contax was such a premium brand that gives such a great shooting experience.
Great piece, inspired me to take my T2 out of the box it's lived in for the last decade and put some Tri-X through it during my next family trip. Looking forward to using it and traveling lighter instead of hauling my Leica M gear with me. Thanks Benj!
Great production value! I have the T2 and I really enjoy using it, too. It's the best and best looking compact camera I've ever owned. I am going to sell it though. I'm constantly worried it'll break and I'll be out a lot of money.
Hey buddy i saw this camera on some reel on insta and was pretty impressed by the price and quality, should i still buy it (it's one year since this video) sooo like how is it and all? still worth? for some fun time pics :) thenks
@@viditverma9515 I'd say it depends. If you specifically want it for "fun pics" (Sounds like party, lake, vacation with friends), then there might be cheaper options out there - because you don't always want to worry about an expensive piece of equipment. I'd much rather go for a disposable or cheap P&S camera. If you want something that's small, extremely capable, solid and nice looking (and money isn't an issue) then you'll be happy with the T2
To be exact, the camera shoots at f2.8 up until 1/125 where it reverts to f4 and narrower apertures should the light be too bright. Having a low maximum shutter speed for wider apertures was pretty common for point and shoots. You can force f2.8 by using the exposure compensation dial if you're fine with overexposure. The Fujifilm Klasse can only do f2.6 up to 1/290. The Klasse S actually has the same f2.6 lens as the Klasse but the shutter is modified to allow it to shoot at 1/500 wide open but by design limitation, causing wide-open to be limited to f2.8.
I guess it's better than say the Konica Hexar AF which has a maximum shutter speed of 1/250 for all apertures. Imagine having a f2 lens and only being able to use it with an ND filter or when it gets dark. The advantage of the Klasse S that you can use f2.8 at 2 stops earlier.
very informative! many thanks! just bought a mint one for an astronomic price but you don't get cheap ones any more... looking forward using it a lot...
Great production on this video, man! I really took away a lot from your technical commentary on how you use it. My wife just purchased me one of these for my 30th birthday and I just can’t believe I own one now!
Are there any film cameras you recommend to someone who is getting into/trying film photography? I'm looking for a small compact camera for when I can't carry a huge body. - dslr user
Great video. Two questions- have you had any mechanical issues with it in the last year? Also- does the exposure comp affect flash photos at all or is the point and shoot flash so powerful that exp comp is really just for non-flash photos?
guess it’s also the fact that these contax cams are just beautiful time pieces in general, I own the Yashica T4 and it looks like a brick compared to this glorious thing haha
I read about a trick to force it to stay in f/2.8- It's to move the ring just out of the 2.8 detent but not to 4.0. I haven't tried it myself, but I'll try it with my next roll.
How do you or other people think it compares to the prime mju's? I guess it's all about the superior glass on the Contax... love how it can do exposure comp and infinity lock focus as well.. shame the mju can't do it's own namesake :)
Hey Benj! Love your work man. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and helping noobs like me :) I was lucky enough to have grabbed a T2 while in Japan and I’m just wondering what your favourite film and aperture to use with this camera is? Hope you don’t mind me asking.
I would have guessed that making 2.8 the "Program" mode to protect from over exposure out doors because the camera doesn't really have any super fast shutter speeds.
You do realize (?) that this statement doesn't make a bit of sense. If they designed to protect from over exposure, the "program" would avoid the widest/fastest apertures, right? Your confusion may result from the fact that Benj totally screwed up his description of how the program exposure mode functions and got it exactly backwards from reality. You know, it does help to read the user manual on a camera before producing a YT video telling everyone how it works. Here, Benj is just repeating erroneous bullshit which is widely spread in YT videos re the T2.
Im a bit confused on the auto aperture setting. So you can only use 2.8 with low light situations? I always thought less light means higher aperture (e.g., 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16).
The higher aperture numbers let in less light, so unless it’s a long exposure on a tripod, you wouldn’t want to use them in low light. The camera will only use f/2.8 when the lack of light necessitates it.
Hi! Just discovered your channel. You have a new subscriber :-) I have the Contax TVS and yeah, the auto focus definitely struggles with windows, mirrors etc. I also find the infinity switch very useful for that. Seems old auto focus systems all struggle with reflective surfaces in general. My Konica Hexar has the same problem. Great channel, keep up the good work!
Good God, the camera is a mechanism; it does not "struggle". The T2 and most other P-n-S cameras use what is called an "active beam" auto-focus system. When the shutter release is depressed, the camera projects a beam of infrared light to the subject (or where ever it is pointed), the beam is reflected from the subject to the camera, which reads the beam to determine the distance to subject, setting that distance for the lens focus system. In many systems, like the T2, that process also sets the flash to give proper exposure on the subject if flash is selected. When the beam is pointed at a subject which is behind glass, a window, the beam reflects from the glass, not the subject, and focuses on the glass. That is why on the T2 you have a very convenient over-ride to manually set focus distance. Modern SLRs used a contrast measuring system instead to set auto-focus distance. The later Contax T3 uses both systems. Active beam is more accurate at close distances, and contrast systems are more accurate at longer distances. One potential advantage of the "old" beam focus system is that the camera will focus just fine in the black of night. One disadvantage is that some subjects will not reflect enough light to work the system, such as some animal fur.
@@randallstewart175 Good God, why do some people insist on being assholes for no good reason? I already knew all that. That's why the Contax TVS struggles with reflective surfaces.
Hey, I was wondering if there is any contemporary models similar to the Contax T2, or what is the reason people aren´t hyped about any point and shoot contemporary cameras?
Ah I couldn’t tell you for sure. Hopefully someone else can help here. I’d assume just the normal stuff. Ask if there are any issues and comb through the photos to make sure as best you can.
@@benjhaisch oh wow thats not to bad. Man im jelly you have one of these. Iv been wanting this and the dang t3 for over a year now. Just tell me its not worth 1k or tell me it is and ill think about it😂 The t3 is for when im rich and famous 🤑
Haha! It’s crazy how much these compacts are going for. If I didn’t attach so darn much sentimental value to mine I’d probably sell it for 3x more than I bought it for...
@@benjhaisch wow thats awesome. I bet you have so much great memories with it so i dont blame you for not wanting to selling i mean thats just what photography is all about. The memories and of course you know the best camera is the one you have with you and that t2 would be sweet to carry all the time. Thats what im after a full Frame i can bring everywhere.
hiiii i’ve purchased a contax t2 and it isn’t here yet it’s been rigorously thoroughly tested for functionality however i’m worried what if there are light leaks etc or some problem if i develop film with it is it possible if a camera is fully 100% functional and been tested for integrity but it could be faulty while developing film?
@@benjhaisch the guy on ebay said it hasn’t been tested with film but has been thoroughly inspected for functionality and integrity so it won’t give problems with film developing
Hey Benji, great video dude! Have watched so so many videos on the Contax T2 as I go back and forth on if I want to spend that kind of money for an older point and shoot. Have to say though, this was one of the most thorough and informative videos I've seen...so thank you for the time and effort you put into it. I have a question for you - is there a reputable place you buy film cameras from? I've been searching eBay and the T2's in "near mint" condition seem to range from $720-800. Mostly all shipping from Japan. Do you think that's a fair price and how do you know if you're getting one in actual good condition?
Also...adding on a clarification question here haha...when you said you go in to "auto" mode you can only shoot at 2.8, or was it that you cant use 2.8 once you're shooting auto?
Yeah, the auto mode is the only way to get the camera to shoot f/2.8 and THEN it’s only if the camera doesn’t have enough light to use the other apertures.
Benj Haisch Understood. Well that’s kinda a bummer, and dumb. Appreciate the response. Have any recommendations on reputable sources to buy one of these?
@@BoostFutbol I think it's more accurate to say that f2.8 is only available at 1/125 and slower shutter speeds which is common for a lot of film point and shoots since the shutter isn't built to travel fast enough over the lens at faster shutter speeds. You can definitely shoot at f2.8 in brighter settings but you would have to overexpose it intentionally using the exposure compensation dial. You definitely do not need to be shooting it at very low light to get f2.8, just not out at noon. The Klasse does a bit better by having a max of 1/290 at f2.6 and the Klasse S and T3 can do 1/500 at f2.8.
I think it's a mistake to say f2.8 is only available when there's not enough light and is more accurate to say that you can't use f2.8 if it's too bright. I mean not being able to shoot wide open in bright scenarios even with a manual rangefinder than go up to 1/500 is pretty common but it's just exaggerated in most point and shoots, the T2 included.
Hey I have a T2 since more than 2 years, and long ago the batteries started dying really fast, is really stressful because I need to take out the batteries everyday because it dies if I leave it from one day to another inside my Contax :(
Awesome video!!! Im busy selling my friends T2. As far as I see it is in PERFECT condition aesthetically and with all functions. Do you think I need to take photos and develop the film to know that its working as it should? It hasn't been used for a long time, but also why should it not work... thank you so much!!!! 😊
Is this film good to use: Kodak Portra 160 135/36. Someone on YT was talking about that the film needs to have the right amount of teeth and the right x-code, and I dont know how to check that, so I got concerned.
The vignetting bugs me on most of these compacts (I can definitely tell the difference in negatives between this and my 35 or 50 Summicron). That being said its also going for a different vibe. I prefer photos out of a Rollei 35 if I am going to grab something this small (although I understand a very different camera). The Zeiss Tessar 3.5 on that is amazing. Or even an Olympus 35 RC.
Right On, Brother. In fairness to the T2, the vignetting, which can be quite apparent in Program mode, where the lens is held at 2.8 (wide open) as much as the light level will permit, disappears quickly as you shut the lens down a stop or two in aperture preferred auto exposure. IMO, the chatter about it is worse than the reality, but then on a camera selling at its current used prices, you'd expect no vignetting at and aperture. I also agree that if I am seeking maximum image quality and do not need the auto-everything of the T2, my 35SE is the preference. The resolution, contrast and color saturation of the 40mm 2.8 Sonnar lens is outstanding.
Then how does one get their hands on it? Like where do u buy it from? I've just really wanted this camera for really long now. And is there another camera you'd suggest in place of contax T2 which is more readily available??
Always find myself coming back to this video every now and then, especially now that I finally got a T2! Just wanna ask how much you use the flash? I'm a bit wary on using it because of flash burn, and it's been a struggle knowing that this camera has a great flash that captures skin tones really well and keeps the photo soft even in night situations.
What is "flash burn"? I've had a T2 for more than 20 years, and I do not recall ever using the flash, but then I do not take casual snaps on social occasions. The flash system works just like most P-n-S cameras, There is nothing special re "captures skin tones well". The light output is controlled by the subject distance as measured by the autofocus system. For your reference, the actual maximum potential flash output for the T2 is less than most of its competitors. In fact, its whimpy flash output is one of the negative factors usually charged against it in serious reviews.
@@randallstewart175 Flash burn happens when the plastic covering on the flash literally burns off and has black spots, usually caused by overuse of the flash. While the T3 has had its biggest issue with the teeth on the film spool, the T2’s biggest concern from my own readings have been flash burn. I’ve had a fair share of PnS cameras before acquiring the T2, and my constant gripe was always the flash. Photos I take at night with flash on previous PnS cameras were always blown out, but there is the possibility that it just may be my own skill that causes the problem. I don’t really see myself in a scenario where I’ll need the maximum potential flash output, though, and I do take casual snaps. Recent reviews of the T2 have described its flash as “soft” rather than whimpy (thus the good skin tone capture and refrain from blown out photos).
@@andreiflores5651 Flash Burn - never heard of that before, but then my T2 is the only small camera I own with a buit in flash, and I almost never use it. These very small flash units in small P-n-S cameras are practically point light sources. They will vary in intensity, but use straight on to the subject with no reflectors or other light modifiers, they are a "hard" a s it gets. There is no "softer" light pattern to the flash in the T2. Any difference in light softness (whatever that means as used there) for the T2 reported in some YT review is, like much of such "information" the creation, or more likely repetition, of subjective nonsense.
Wow! So much information, and so many errors. First, yes, I own and have used a T2 for more than 20 years. Corrections: 1. Lens. Not made by Zeiss. Designed by Zeiss, licensed to Kyocera (Contax) in Japan, which manufactures the lens and camera. 2. Lens. It's not the best of class", no matter how you define the concept. The Nikkor in the 35Ti is sharper in the image center at most stops, but the T2 Sonnar is more even across the whole image. I actually bought both and ran my own lens test on film to compare. I prefer the overall performance of the T2, so I resold the 35Ti. If the lens defines your camera choice, then the Konica Hexar AF with 35mm 2.0 is a stop faster and clearly superior performance to both T2 and 35Ti, but it isn't as pocketable. The T2 also has more vignetting at wide apertures than any other high priced P-n-S I've ever seen. 3. Auto exposure. In auto mode, selected by setting aperture at 2.8, the auto mode holds the 2.8 aperture in all natural lighting until the light get so bright that the fastest shutter speed cannot avoid an over-exposure. Only then does the aperture start to close down. If you want an aperture smaller than 2.8, you just select it. The exposure is automatic in either mode. This makes sense. His description has it backwards, I think. 4. Auto focus. The reason you get bad focus when shooting through glass, i.e., a window, is that the system measures distance to subject by projecting an infrared beam and reading its reflection. Point the camera at any subject behind a window, you'll get focused on the window. Auto-focus may also fail if the subject does not reflect enough light, such as pet fur. On the other hand, it will focus in the dark. Why did they do it that way? This auto focus system was invented by Honeywell half a century ago and was the only auto focus system used until the 35mm SLRs came out with TTL auto-focus systems which work on a difference principle. Almost every P-n-S camera made uses this same system. Note that on the T2, the auto-focus never actually focusses at infinity, which is why you can select true infinity focus manually.
Why do reviewers fail to discuss the viewfinder? Its a big deal.... but.... no.... no viewfinder disucssion. Annoying. Is it good, bad, wide, bright, their favorite etc!!!
To establish my cred, a Contax T2 is my only point-n-shoot camera, and has be for over 20 years. I comment because I'm so tired of these videos treating it like some sort of uber-camera. First the lens isn't made by Zeiss; its was designed by Zeiss for use in the original Contax T. It was manufacturer by Kyocera (formerly Yashica) in Japan. The autofocus system is the same system originally designed in the late 1960s by Honeywell, and used in some of the cheapest cameras made. It's not very small. The lens autofocus cycle is at best medium slow. It has none of the user programmed functions found on the others similar camera (Nikon 35Ti). The lens is good, but far from the best. (Konica Hxar AF). Nothing special metering (Nikon 35Ti matrix meter - wonderful). So what makes it great other than a Karashian sweats on one? It's the Package! The T2 pulls together all of these ideas into one very usable, durable, high quality picture taking camera. Easy to use. Survivable. 9 out of 10 quality photos. A few comment on his points. The reason folks get auto-misfocus is that there is a very small target in viewfinder for focus; you have to use the finder to properly select where to focus. On shutter speed, I found his discussion confused, but he seems to want more 1/500 speed selection. In fact, when the aperture is set to 2.8 and auto-exposure engaged, the lebns is always set at 2.8 if there is a shutter speed which can expose at the setting. The lens automatically selects a smaller aperture only when the fastest shutter speed would stiill give over-exposure. (The lens also performs most poorly at 2.8, so why anyone would elect that aperture over small options is an open question not addressed in the video.) You know, all of this is in the camera manual, so maybe reading the "how to use this camera" should be the first step, not the last.
If there is no need for f/2.8, then this camera doesn’t need to exist :) you pay more for the extra features. The lens doesn’t have the ability to accept an ND filter either. Smallish gripe, but again, in paying for a premium camera, you’re really looking for those extra features that push it a little beyond.
To clarify - he is wrong - this lens was not made in Germany. The lens was made in Japan and if this camera was made today, it would not be allowed to be marketed as a true Zeiss lens. Let it be known it is a stellar camera but you are paying for an overpriced brick basically
Oh shoot, did I say it was made in Germany? If so, my apologies. The lens and most Zeiss glass for still cameras in the last 30 years or so has been made in Japan to my knowledge. At least all of the Zeiss glass I’ve owned post 1990’s.
woah those timeline markers are epic. I wish more people would do that.
That seems to be a new feature of RUclips, a lot of new videos have those markers now
This is my favourite premium P&S of them all. I also have the Minilux, 35Ti, R1, MJU-II etc in my collection and the T2 is my favourite by far. After I repaired mine, it has never failed me and I'm more than satisfied with the results it produces.
Just got the MJU ii, any tips?
So much value in the stuff you share here, man. Always pumped to listen to you geek out about gear.
😘😘😘
I love to watch this kind of review...good background music, lovely photos sample, easy to understand n complete cam review with very neat timeline. Just perfect.
Appreciate that!
This review reminds me how much I love my G1 - I went through 3 rolls last week. Contax was such a premium brand that gives such a great shooting experience.
Great piece, inspired me to take my T2 out of the box it's lived in for the last decade and put some Tri-X through it during my next family trip. Looking forward to using it and traveling lighter instead of hauling my Leica M gear with me. Thanks Benj!
this is the first time I'm hearing about this camera and I want it so bad now.
Just grabbed one and your video was the first to pop up on search hahaha
Great production value! I have the T2 and I really enjoy using it, too. It's the best and best looking compact camera I've ever owned. I am going to sell it though. I'm constantly worried it'll break and I'll be out a lot of money.
I’m interested if it’s for sale!
Hey buddy i saw this camera on some reel on insta and was pretty impressed by the price and quality, should i still buy it (it's one year since this video) sooo like how is it and all? still worth? for some fun time pics :) thenks
@@viditverma9515 I'd say it depends. If you specifically want it for "fun pics" (Sounds like party, lake, vacation with friends), then there might be cheaper options out there - because you don't always want to worry about an expensive piece of equipment. I'd much rather go for a disposable or cheap P&S camera. If you want something that's small, extremely capable, solid and nice looking (and money isn't an issue) then you'll be happy with the T2
great video ! i love my T2....will never sell it . actually just bought my girl a Yashica T3 which might be a good alternative if the budget is tight
Hey. Thanks for the video. I'm tempted by the contax t3. Are there any significant differences that you may know of?
To be exact, the camera shoots at f2.8 up until 1/125 where it reverts to f4 and narrower apertures should the light be too bright. Having a low maximum shutter speed for wider apertures was pretty common for point and shoots. You can force f2.8 by using the exposure compensation dial if you're fine with overexposure.
The Fujifilm Klasse can only do f2.6 up to 1/290. The Klasse S actually has the same f2.6 lens as the Klasse but the shutter is modified to allow it to shoot at 1/500 wide open but by design limitation, causing wide-open to be limited to f2.8.
I guess it's better than say the Konica Hexar AF which has a maximum shutter speed of 1/250 for all apertures. Imagine having a f2 lens and only being able to use it with an ND filter or when it gets dark.
The advantage of the Klasse S that you can use f2.8 at 2 stops earlier.
Great stuff man, great shots with the T2 too. Just uploaded a review of the OG Contax T ha
Contax made some awesome shit, I have the G1. You have all the enthusiasm of a NJ construction foreman, I like that.
Ha! I’m not sure what exactly that means, but it sounds hilarious
Wondering what size you get your prints done when taking film in for developing.
Thanks for the video, excited about my Contax T2
Do you develop your own film? Great video! I love seeing everything you talk about. Keep up the good work
very informative! many thanks! just bought a mint one for an astronomic price but you don't get cheap ones any more... looking forward using it a lot...
hey Benj ! hope you're doing okay. Thanks for all your precious reviews, I was wondering if you have any tips where to order the T2 ? Best, Julie
Great production on this video, man! I really took away a lot from your technical commentary on how you use it. My wife just purchased me one of these for my 30th birthday and I just can’t believe I own one now!
Hey man! that camera strap on the T2 looks so good. Any clue where is it from?? TY
i enjoy these videos man, you're a big help in reviewing these point and shoots. I been shooting with an SLR, Canon FTB and a Minolta XG-1.
Very nice review. And it's nice to see Matt Day giving you a mention on the Ilford Photo channel ....
Ah Matt is the best!
Well done Benj! Loved this video and really interesting to hear more in detail about the T2 :)
Thanks Joel! Hope you’re well man! Send me the link to buy your house! Haha
Are there any film cameras you recommend to someone who is getting into/trying film photography? I'm looking for a small compact camera for when I can't carry a huge body. - dslr user
Great video. Two questions- have you had any mechanical issues with it in the last year? Also- does the exposure comp affect flash photos at all or is the point and shoot flash so powerful that exp comp is really just for non-flash photos?
guess it’s also the fact that these contax cams are just beautiful time pieces in general, I own the Yashica T4 and it looks like a brick compared to this glorious thing haha
love ur videos
Thank you!!! just bought this camera. Wonder how to shoot at night? Do I need to turn to the flashlight mode?
oh wow that sample photo of the beach was maui :) keawakapu beach. awesome review and pics!
what film is he using in this portra 400?
That airplane window photo looks jaw dropping i had to pause the video and look at it for a minute 😎
duuude, your photography is top notch
I read about a trick to force it to stay in f/2.8- It's to move the ring just out of the 2.8 detent but not to 4.0. I haven't tried it myself, but I'll try it with my next roll.
Ohhhhhhh I’ll try
How do you or other people think it compares to the prime mju's? I guess it's all about the superior glass on the Contax... love how it can do exposure comp and infinity lock focus as well.. shame the mju can't do it's own namesake :)
OK man, I'm digging your style. And great shots.
Hey Benj! Love your work man. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and helping noobs like me :) I was lucky enough to have grabbed a T2 while in Japan and I’m just wondering what your favourite film and aperture to use with this camera is? Hope you don’t mind me asking.
I love Kodak ColorPlus. It's my favorite budget film. I usually toss it on 2.8 which is just the auto setting
Do you by any chance know If the lcd screen/film counter numbers always on even if the camera is off?
what colored film did you use?
hey! where can i safely purchased film cameras? any recommendations? great review btw
I just found this camera at a thrift store for 8.99. Looks brand new and it works! How awesome lol
I would have guessed that making 2.8 the "Program" mode to protect from over exposure out doors because the camera doesn't really have any super fast shutter speeds.
You do realize (?) that this statement doesn't make a bit of sense. If they designed to protect from over exposure, the "program" would avoid the widest/fastest apertures, right? Your confusion may result from the fact that Benj totally screwed up his description of how the program exposure mode functions and got it exactly backwards from reality. You know, it does help to read the user manual on a camera before producing a YT video telling everyone how it works. Here, Benj is just repeating erroneous bullshit which is widely spread in YT videos re the T2.
@randallstewart1224 how so? 2.8 is only used when necessary. So no, you can’t choose to shoot at 2.8 whenever you want.
whoah, i just shot a job for Chevrolet at that ranch in Arizona!
Hi. What do you think about Konica Hexar AF?
Im a bit confused on the auto aperture setting. So you can only use 2.8 with low light situations? I always thought less light means higher aperture (e.g., 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16).
The higher aperture numbers let in less light, so unless it’s a long exposure on a tripod, you wouldn’t want to use them in low light. The camera will only use f/2.8 when the lack of light necessitates it.
@@benjhaisch So in simpler terms, f/2.8 is better for night time and lower light? When will I ever use the higher apertures then?
Also if i keep the camera in "p" mode will it automatically set it at the right aperture and turn the flash on if needed?
Hi!
which film do you use ?
Hi nice video, what do you think about your Olympus Mju 1?
I talked about it a little in this video! ruclips.net/video/RU16KHBFVx0/видео.html
What film stock in the sample photos?
This is great dude! Thanks!
Hi! Just discovered your channel. You have a new subscriber :-)
I have the Contax TVS and yeah, the auto focus definitely struggles with windows, mirrors etc. I also find the infinity switch very useful for that. Seems old auto focus systems all struggle with reflective surfaces in general. My Konica Hexar has the same problem. Great channel, keep up the good work!
Good God, the camera is a mechanism; it does not "struggle". The T2 and most other P-n-S cameras use what is called an "active beam" auto-focus system. When the shutter release is depressed, the camera projects a beam of infrared light to the subject (or where ever it is pointed), the beam is reflected from the subject to the camera, which reads the beam to determine the distance to subject, setting that distance for the lens focus system. In many systems, like the T2, that process also sets the flash to give proper exposure on the subject if flash is selected. When the beam is pointed at a subject which is behind glass, a window, the beam reflects from the glass, not the subject, and focuses on the glass. That is why on the T2 you have a very convenient over-ride to manually set focus distance. Modern SLRs used a contrast measuring system instead to set auto-focus distance. The later Contax T3 uses both systems. Active beam is more accurate at close distances, and contrast systems are more accurate at longer distances. One potential advantage of the "old" beam focus system is that the camera will focus just fine in the black of night. One disadvantage is that some subjects will not reflect enough light to work the system, such as some animal fur.
@@randallstewart175 Good God, why do some people insist on being assholes for no good reason? I already knew all that. That's why the Contax TVS struggles with reflective surfaces.
Hey, I was wondering if there is any contemporary models similar to the Contax T2, or what is the reason people aren´t hyped about any point and shoot contemporary cameras?
What do you consider contemporary in the film world?
any idea what I should be looking for when buying on ebay? great review and video! just subscribed, keep it up!
Ah I couldn’t tell you for sure. Hopefully someone else can help here. I’d assume just the normal stuff. Ask if there are any issues and comb through the photos to make sure as best you can.
Oh yeah i enjoy watching this video and ur pictures
A review on that Olympus Mju I would be awesome!
Do you actually use the Exposure Compensation alot with the Contax T2 or Klasse W (like EXP 1+)?
yeah, most of the time it's at +1
why you like the klasse W more than contax t2
Fire 🔥 shots man.
What do you think if battery life my guy?
Of*
Mine has been pretty great. I’ve probably replaced 4 batteries in 5 years...
@@benjhaisch oh wow thats not to bad. Man im jelly you have one of these.
Iv been wanting this and the dang t3 for over a year now.
Just tell me its not worth 1k or tell me it is and ill think about it😂
The t3 is for when im rich and famous 🤑
Haha! It’s crazy how much these compacts are going for. If I didn’t attach so darn much sentimental value to mine I’d probably sell it for 3x more than I bought it for...
@@benjhaisch wow thats awesome. I bet you have so much great memories with it so i dont blame you for not wanting to selling i mean thats just what photography is all about. The memories and of course you know the best camera is the one you have with you and that t2 would be sweet to carry all the time. Thats what im after a full Frame i can bring everywhere.
hiiii
i’ve purchased a contax t2 and it isn’t here yet
it’s been rigorously thoroughly tested for functionality
however i’m worried what if there are light leaks etc or some problem if i develop film with it
is it possible if a camera is fully 100% functional and been tested for integrity but it could be faulty while developing film?
If someone claims that it’s 100% functional and tested for integrity, this would also need to involve how it exposes the film.
@@benjhaisch the guy on ebay said it hasn’t been tested with film but has been thoroughly inspected for functionality
and integrity so it won’t give problems with film developing
@@benjhaisch so do you think it will be all good with film etc? no problems right
Hey Benji, great video dude! Have watched so so many videos on the Contax T2 as I go back and forth on if I want to spend that kind of money for an older point and shoot. Have to say though, this was one of the most thorough and informative videos I've seen...so thank you for the time and effort you put into it. I have a question for you - is there a reputable place you buy film cameras from? I've been searching eBay and the T2's in "near mint" condition seem to range from $720-800. Mostly all shipping from Japan. Do you think that's a fair price and how do you know if you're getting one in actual good condition?
Also...adding on a clarification question here haha...when you said you go in to "auto" mode you can only shoot at 2.8, or was it that you cant use 2.8 once you're shooting auto?
Yeah, the auto mode is the only way to get the camera to shoot f/2.8 and THEN it’s only if the camera doesn’t have enough light to use the other apertures.
Benj Haisch Understood. Well that’s kinda a bummer, and dumb. Appreciate the response. Have any recommendations on reputable sources to buy one of these?
@@BoostFutbol I think it's more accurate to say that f2.8 is only available at 1/125 and slower shutter speeds which is common for a lot of film point and shoots since the shutter isn't built to travel fast enough over the lens at faster shutter speeds. You can definitely shoot at f2.8 in brighter settings but you would have to overexpose it intentionally using the exposure compensation dial. You definitely do not need to be shooting it at very low light to get f2.8, just not out at noon. The Klasse does a bit better by having a max of 1/290 at f2.6 and the Klasse S and T3 can do 1/500 at f2.8.
3:56 i did NOT know that wow. that's a deal-breaker............
I think it's a mistake to say f2.8 is only available when there's not enough light and is more accurate to say that you can't use f2.8 if it's too bright. I mean not being able to shoot wide open in bright scenarios even with a manual rangefinder than go up to 1/500 is pretty common but it's just exaggerated in most point and shoots, the T2 included.
Hey I have a T2 since more than 2 years, and long ago the batteries started dying really fast, is really stressful because I need to take out the batteries everyday because it dies if I leave it from one day to another inside my Contax :(
Does anyone know how to fix this problem?? Thanks!
where do you go to get film developed?
Awesome video!!!
Im busy selling my friends T2. As far as I see it is in PERFECT condition aesthetically and with all functions. Do you think I need to take photos and develop the film to know that its working as it should? It hasn't been used for a long time, but also why should it not work... thank you so much!!!! 😊
yeah, I'd always get a test roll to show samples. It'll be well worth the investment to add peace of mind for a buyer
@@benjhaisch ok thank you 🙏🏼
Is this film good to use: Kodak Portra 160 135/36. Someone on YT was talking about that the film needs to have the right amount of teeth and the right x-code, and I dont know how to check that, so I got concerned.
@@shantinila5088 haha yeah Portra 160 would be totally fine. Any film will work. And the teeth issue is with the T3, not the T2 so you’re good!
I’m interested in buying! I’m located in the US
What settings would you recommend for street photography please?
f8 and be there. Or sometimes f5.6. Pre-focus at 3m and you’re done for most street stuff. 👍
The vignetting bugs me on most of these compacts (I can definitely tell the difference in negatives between this and my 35 or 50 Summicron). That being said its also going for a different vibe. I prefer photos out of a Rollei 35 if I am going to grab something this small (although I understand a very different camera). The Zeiss Tessar 3.5 on that is amazing. Or even an Olympus 35 RC.
Right On, Brother. In fairness to the T2, the vignetting, which can be quite apparent in Program mode, where the lens is held at 2.8 (wide open) as much as the light level will permit, disappears quickly as you shut the lens down a stop or two in aperture preferred auto exposure. IMO, the chatter about it is worse than the reality, but then on a camera selling at its current used prices, you'd expect no vignetting at and aperture. I also agree that if I am seeking maximum image quality and do not need the auto-everything of the T2, my 35SE is the preference. The resolution, contrast and color saturation of the 40mm 2.8 Sonnar lens is outstanding.
I have this camera for a while now but the images don’t turn out like this 🥺
How fast is the AF? Can anyone compare it to the T3?
Where can you buy the Contax T2? Is it true that the company has stopped manufacturing it?
Yeah, I’m pretty sure they haven’t been being made since the 90’s
Then how does one get their hands on it? Like where do u buy it from? I've just really wanted this camera for really long now. And is there another camera you'd suggest in place of contax T2 which is more readily available??
What’s a cheaper alternative?
Always find myself coming back to this video every now and then, especially now that I finally got a T2! Just wanna ask how much you use the flash? I'm a bit wary on using it because of flash burn, and it's been a struggle knowing that this camera has a great flash that captures skin tones really well and keeps the photo soft even in night situations.
What is "flash burn"? I've had a T2 for more than 20 years, and I do not recall ever using the flash, but then I do not take casual snaps on social occasions. The flash system works just like most P-n-S cameras, There is nothing special re "captures skin tones well". The light output is controlled by the subject distance as measured by the autofocus system. For your reference, the actual maximum potential flash output for the T2 is less than most of its competitors. In fact, its whimpy flash output is one of the negative factors usually charged against it in serious reviews.
@@randallstewart175 Flash burn happens when the plastic covering on the flash literally burns off and has black spots, usually caused by overuse of the flash. While the T3 has had its biggest issue with the teeth on the film spool, the T2’s biggest concern from my own readings have been flash burn.
I’ve had a fair share of PnS cameras before acquiring the T2, and my constant gripe was always the flash. Photos I take at night with flash on previous PnS cameras were always blown out, but there is the possibility that it just may be my own skill that causes the problem. I don’t really see myself in a scenario where I’ll need the maximum potential flash output, though, and I do take casual snaps. Recent reviews of the T2 have described its flash as “soft” rather than whimpy (thus the good skin tone capture and refrain from blown out photos).
@@andreiflores5651 Flash Burn - never heard of that before, but then my T2 is the only small camera I own with a buit in flash, and I almost never use it. These very small flash units in small P-n-S cameras are practically point light sources. They will vary in intensity, but use straight on to the subject with no reflectors or other light modifiers, they are a "hard" a s it gets. There is no "softer" light pattern to the flash in the T2. Any difference in light softness (whatever that means as used there) for the T2 reported in some YT review is, like much of such "information" the creation, or more likely repetition, of subjective nonsense.
Where can you buy this in India?
What Film are you using?
ColorPlus, Portra, UltraMax
contax G1 vs contax T2 which do you pick?
I went T2 for portability.
Hey Benj, do you use a lab in WA to develop your film since you're located in Tacoma? I've been looking around for a few options here.
I’ve used Speedy in Lakewood before with ok results. I usually just mail everything into indie film lab though. Better results and it’s cheaper :)
I just got one!!!
Hi Benj! Great video!! Can you Talk about olympus mju I please!!! Thanks!
+1
Wow! So much information, and so many errors. First, yes, I own and have used a T2 for more than 20 years. Corrections:
1. Lens. Not made by Zeiss. Designed by Zeiss, licensed to Kyocera (Contax) in Japan, which manufactures the lens and camera.
2. Lens. It's not the best of class", no matter how you define the concept. The Nikkor in the 35Ti is sharper in the image center at most stops, but the T2 Sonnar is more even across the whole image. I actually bought both and ran my own lens test on film to compare. I prefer the overall performance of the T2, so I resold the 35Ti. If the lens defines your camera choice, then the Konica Hexar AF with 35mm 2.0 is a stop faster and clearly superior performance to both T2 and 35Ti, but it isn't as pocketable. The T2 also has more vignetting at wide apertures than any other high priced P-n-S I've ever seen.
3. Auto exposure. In auto mode, selected by setting aperture at 2.8, the auto mode holds the 2.8 aperture in all natural lighting until the light get so bright that the fastest shutter speed cannot avoid an over-exposure. Only then does the aperture start to close down. If you want an aperture smaller than 2.8, you just select it. The exposure is automatic in either mode. This makes sense. His description has it backwards, I think.
4. Auto focus. The reason you get bad focus when shooting through glass, i.e., a window, is that the system measures distance to subject by projecting an infrared beam and reading its reflection. Point the camera at any subject behind a window, you'll get focused on the window. Auto-focus may also fail if the subject does not reflect enough light, such as pet fur. On the other hand, it will focus in the dark. Why did they do it that way? This auto focus system was invented by Honeywell half a century ago and was the only auto focus system used until the 35mm SLRs came out with TTL auto-focus systems which work on a difference principle. Almost every P-n-S camera made uses this same system. Note that on the T2, the auto-focus never actually focusses at infinity, which is why you can select true infinity focus manually.
thank you sir
What is your favorite film?
Portra 400 is the most versatile, but I really love Portra 800
Gunnerstahl is the reason why film is popular again u can look him up and thank me later
Isn't this camera selling for 600 bucks or so? Contax T2.
Seems like it’s $600-900ish last time I checked, yep!
I GOT MINES
I need help I need a good point and shoot that’s not 800$ lol
Why do reviewers fail to discuss the viewfinder? Its a big deal.... but.... no.... no viewfinder disucssion. Annoying. Is it good, bad, wide, bright, their favorite etc!!!
To establish my cred, a Contax T2 is my only point-n-shoot camera, and has be for over 20 years. I comment because I'm so tired of these videos treating it like some sort of uber-camera. First the lens isn't made by Zeiss; its was designed by Zeiss for use in the original Contax T. It was manufacturer by Kyocera (formerly Yashica) in Japan. The autofocus system is the same system originally designed in the late 1960s by Honeywell, and used in some of the cheapest cameras made. It's not very small. The lens autofocus cycle is at best medium slow. It has none of the user programmed functions found on the others similar camera (Nikon 35Ti). The lens is good, but far from the best. (Konica Hxar AF). Nothing special metering (Nikon 35Ti matrix meter - wonderful). So what makes it great other than a Karashian sweats on one? It's the Package! The T2 pulls together all of these ideas into one very usable, durable, high quality picture taking camera. Easy to use. Survivable. 9 out of 10 quality photos. A few comment on his points. The reason folks get auto-misfocus is that there is a very small target in viewfinder for focus; you have to use the finder to properly select where to focus. On shutter speed, I found his discussion confused, but he seems to want more 1/500 speed selection. In fact, when the aperture is set to 2.8 and auto-exposure engaged, the lebns is always set at 2.8 if there is a shutter speed which can expose at the setting. The lens automatically selects a smaller aperture only when the fastest shutter speed would stiill give over-exposure. (The lens also performs most poorly at 2.8, so why anyone would elect that aperture over small options is an open question not addressed in the video.) You know, all of this is in the camera manual, so maybe reading the "how to use this camera" should be the first step, not the last.
Who come here from the that guy on TikTok with David Dobrik
Dude It’s a point and shoot not a portrait camera. No need for 2.8.
And if you’re so serious with your photography just get a nd filter.
If there is no need for f/2.8, then this camera doesn’t need to exist :) you pay more for the extra features. The lens doesn’t have the ability to accept an ND filter either. Smallish gripe, but again, in paying for a premium camera, you’re really looking for those extra features that push it a little beyond.
To clarify - he is wrong - this lens was not made in Germany. The lens was made in Japan and if this camera was made today, it would not be allowed to be marketed as a true Zeiss lens. Let it be known it is a stellar camera but you are paying for an overpriced brick basically
Oh shoot, did I say it was made in Germany? If so, my apologies. The lens and most Zeiss glass for still cameras in the last 30 years or so has been made in Japan to my knowledge. At least all of the Zeiss glass I’ve owned post 1990’s.
Benj Haisch all good man! Great video, made me want to pull trigger on one 🔥🔥
Why are the photos so bad?
How does the camera identify what iso I’m putting ?
DX code on the film cannister itself
@@benjhaisch thank u for your quick reply benj. but I still don’t understand… I don’t have to then do anything on the camera ?