Hey thanks, yeah I did figure it out although the lens looked clear to me, I had nothing to compare it to until I looked at the GAF lens. The BH lens was fouled with a thin smear of grease or something. I took it all apart and cleaned it & now it is projecting the vibrant colors held by the film that's nearly 50 years old! Pretty awesome! Thanks again for your video, I have learned so much about the BH projectors from watching stuff on RUclips it's really amazing. I appreciate your time take care & God bless...
This goes for any projector - you want to keep the film path clean... it's hanging up because of residue from like a bad splice or just dirt from running film in general - dust in the room, etc over time, or the film itself can be dirty. I normally use some good swabs and some alcohol... they all used to include brushes for this purpose. - you also need to keep the film gate clean with a camels hair brush. Most of the time, you can open the film path areas, esp on the newer style projectors. - if the lens swings away, that will help you too. (esp of course for the film gate) Don't use alcohol on rubber parts - if those are there, use rubber renew is a great product... I have saved belts using that too, some that were impossible to change or too expensive to replace...
@@texassmelting7550 It's one main motor that drives everything (normally in all projectors) - there are a series of gears, belts, cams and sometimes even pulleys that are designed to switch to do different things depending on the function. - if you mean the reels - yes and no - depending - in FWD the supply reel is mostly just loose with a little pressure sometimes to keep the film on the reel but allow it to feed into the projector - the take up reel in FWD should be fairly powerful, but could be stopped... - in Rev, it's the other way around - in fast reverse, that is a hard and fast pull from the supply reel usually - there is normally a clutch there to prevent it from ruining the film.
Hi, Thanks - bit long winded, but if it helps anyone, great! - I own like 40 projectors... This one I put on ebay to sell, way back now... seems like that was forever ago :-)
Sorry if this is posted elsewhere, but what could be a reason why my Bell & Howell 456A projector suddenly won't run in reverse? The single frame advance knob spins, but the front reel head won't turn. Is this belt-related? Thanks in advance.
For anyone viewing this as of 2-11-2018, I purchased a 456 at a consignment store. Motor ran and bulb worked. Got it home to find out film wouldn't run thru. If you have minor tools, there are (5) hex head screws on the front to take out and (2) Hex Hd screws underneath. Removal allows the back lid to come off. There you can see the drive belt and what happens when you flip the switch from FWD to Reverse. 2 rubber wheels will engage in a spool. One on top for Reverse....the other is BENEATH the spool/wheel and allows for FWD (maybe the opposite). Get a cotton swab and wet with alcohol and rotate the Aluminum Thumb screw at the front of the machine (in front of lens and above level adjustment knob). YOu will see the wheels rotate. While doing so, with cotton swab cleaning both the upper rubber wheel and top of metal matching spool, this should allow piece to piece friction. The machine I got had not been used in 20 years or so. All was stiff. What I also found was that the "rubber" wheel where the film enters was completely gone. What I dislike about THIS video is the person spinning the story made no effort to pull the cover off to physically check if the drive belt were good. In addition no part numbers (if still available) are provided for the O-ring drive belt, the rubber tire or bulb.
When I try putting the film, the proyector doesnt catch the film and I tried to do it manually and by the time goes all around it get stuck :-/ you know how can I fix it?
you need to be sure that the entire film path is free of debris, etc - and also, open the door, turn on the projector (not the lamp) just the motor, and put it into fwd - and make sure both top and bottom sprocket wheels are turning. - you can manually thread the film all the way to the take up reel if need be... which I would try next, if you do the above - you can "inch" the fwd lever when you have it threaded, and see if everything is advancing correctly, you can keep the door open to see this, but must close it as the registration teeth at the gate need to engage the film, and the pressure plate to keep it flat for good projection of course, but for checking things, you want to be sure there are no jams anywhere... - sometimes a broken (small) piece of film or tape splice can find it's way to the bottom sprocket area, where the film needs to wind correctly, and even a tiny piece there will cause it to hang, and not thread automatically
How does the feed tire come off? Does it just slip off? My feed tire axle was totally froze up I figured out making the rear gear slip and make a clicking noise. I removed the back 2 gears and lubed it well now it turns nicely. I need to remove the tire axle but am unsure how. Would the axle be threaded into the aluminum tire housing piece? Thanks
The Feed Tire is glued in place, so normally if you are having to take it off, you end up ruining it, but normally they need to be replaced anyways, since these are all 50 years old now. Not 100% sure how the capsan comes off - I think it's mounted and secured with a clip ring, but it's been a while now since I overhauled one. The good news is someone was selling the tires, so you can get them - at least a couple years ago. When I had 30 of these, I bought a whole bunch to refurb them all at once, since these are used on like 15 models of the old B&H "bread box" units. They are all basically the same design. The 487 is great - had mechanical variable speed! - anyways, good luck - sounds like you are doing a great job getting her to stay running for another 50 :-)
Mediaman67 Thanks so much for the reply. I really appreciate it. I’m basically stuck trying to mount the metal flimsy bracket that mounts to the axle after having removed what appears to be a torsional spring. Upon further inspection the spring looking thing just appears to be a pin to hold that flimsy bracket on. Replacing it back and securing the flimsy metal bracket so that it engages on the gear teeth securely is what I’m trying to accomplish. This is been very difficult. I may have to use JB Weld since I cannot seem to get the pin reinserted with the proper attention on the flimsy bracket. Hopefully this all makes some sense!!
silentsniperrr Yes, to be clear, rewind function, meaning after the film is through the unit, then lift rear arm, re-thread to front supply reel, and rewind. - however, for reverse projection, you leave it as is...
so, it's feeding it at first, but not allowing it to move into the top of the gate? - my guess is that you have a blockage there... look closely there in the film path, sometimes, a little piece of film or a piece of tape splice can be present, and this would do what you are describing - canned air and a camels hair brush are great to have and sometimes tweezers too... you can manually load the film as well with these - did it for years before I found the rubber replacment tires. all these 60's Bell and Howells used basically the same threading design, with the rubber tire pull down.
be sure to open the lens/bulb door to really look in there - gives you better access to the film path, and you can see what it's doing if you run everything that way - could also be a frozen idler wheel, but not common.
Mine does the exact same thing, I end up just threading it manually because it accordions the beginning of the film pretty badly if I try to have it auto load.
Turns out that the leader on the film I was loading wasn’t trimmed properly, I tried an old Blackhawk Films release that had a correctly trimmed leader end and it threaded with no problems whatsoever.
A nice video. In the absence of the manual, this video was very useful for me to understand how to insert the film automatically. Is the movie projector equipped with a speed variator? Where can I find the manual? Thank you Un bel video. In mancanza del manuale, questo video mi è stato molto utile per capire il modo di inserire la pellicola automaticamente. Il cineproiettore proiettore è munito di variatore di velocità? Dove posso reperire il manuale? Grazie
Thank You for the nice comment :-) - I think the manual for this can be found online as a PDF somewhere, but it's very easy to use. The tricky part, if you never ever threaded it, is to just follow the film path - you can see it all when you pull the lens door away, but so simple after you do it a couple times. BTW - You don't NEED that rubber wheel, but it's nice to have for autoloading - No, The 456a was not a vari-speed projector - they did make a couple in their era, 468 I think it was? and another, that used the same basic design - and I have had a few of those, but they are not very good in terms of being rock solid since they use a mechanical method of changing the speed, and it's just not as good as using a Pot to control the speed. To me, these were some of the best projectors B&H ever made. - 60's quality, and modern look and feel. by the mid 70's, they were making junk... all plastic!
@@mediacreationsusa Thank you very much for the information, and for your nice comment on the film projectors of ....... plastic. But when it comes to amateur cinema, all projectors are "beautiful", including toys, especially nowadays for those who are so homesick for the 8 and S8. Thank you. Ti ringrazio molto per le informazioni, e per il tuo simpatico commento ai cineproiettori di ... plastica. Ma quando si parla di cinema amatoriale, tutti i cineproiettori sono "belli", compresi i giocattoli, soprattutto al giorno d'oggi per chi ha tanta nostalgia dell'8 e S8. Grazie.
@@pietroventrella6683 Yes, I agree - I love how many designs these all came in over the years, not just B&H but so so many different names and models - I have a cute little brownie that a child can operate. some of my fav projectors have more plastic than these older B&H units - Another note for anyone reading - these were AKA as the "bread box" projectors from B&H mid to late 60's right after the 300 series, and before the 70's Film-o-sounds were popular.
Hi, there is nothing wrong with the reverse action of your projector. Note: In reverse operation, the take-up reel may remain stationary although the film is transporting properly ( Bell & Howell Movie Projector Manual. Chicago, Illinois.) Good luck!
That wasn't the issue on this one - the rubber was failing I think and it needed to be lubed, yes the take up should move much at all in Reverse for either rewind or reverse projection - I was helping it in both cases to compensate for worn rubber if I recall? - this was almost 6 years ago, so I don't even have it anymore, but I have about 130 projectors here, and know this series pretty well. the 60's "bread box" projectors all work about the same way... best BELL and HOWELLS that were made, IMHO.... and the early Film-o-Sonics, when up to spec.
I have a model 456. The threading tire became very gummy, almost like asphalt. It stuck to the leader on one film, so I cut off the rubber, easy to do since it was so pliable. I haven't tried to thread a film with the tire missing (except for the metal part) though. All else works OK.. Sure wish it had a variable speed control (to adjust for flicker).
New tires on e-bay. Thanks but I'm sort of an experimenter. I can thread by hand if necessary. Actually this 456 (no A with the model number) has a control lever that (not working at present ) allows for "normal" "slow" and "step". Not as good as a variable control however. I wonder... motor...variac...?
Yeah, by hand is fine too - in fact with these that is what I did for years, as the tires were really hard to come by 5 years ago. you need a very good quality pot to do what you are asking... but yes, similar to using a dimmer on lighting... the problem is, you need to find one that can support the extra amps a motor draws, unlike a light... One that would work for something like a ceiling fan motor.... Also, you don't need a huge swing... Reg 8 plays back at 18FPS... so you can slow it down to 15, or go up to 20... either will work, depending on your camera - if your camera can support 1/30th, slow to 15 FPS - if not, speeding to 20 fps works ok for 60P, but not great for 60i - just my 2 cents.... S8 is 24 FPS (as is 16mm) - so I usually slow to 20, and capture at 1/40th or 1/60th if Im in 60P (20x3 is 60) A GOOD HD camera can actually sync to anything you throw at it... SD cameras are a different story, for most consumer models that is... my HD transfers look as good or usually better than the film in most cases! But there is nothing like watching the color reproduction of GOOD film... those DEEP reds... for example, you just can't get that much contrast and saturation, even in 4:2:2 or SDI direct capture... CLOSE though... Maybe Im just an old Film fool :) - but it does look better....
nice well made, but not recommended for film now, since all metal units like that will eat film, for a number of reasons... still, if it's in mint condition, somewhat collectible... I had a 1922 Victor 16mm bottom load that I sold a few years ago for $2K - but the bulbs were like $75 each! (big and hot!) it ran fine, but I only used junk, or test film to try it out for these same reasons...
the belts just wear out, can't tighten really... but, you can try rubber clean on them, and it might buy you some time... but anything rubber that is 40+ years old is gonna need to be replaced pretty much.
Yeah, they are becoming harder to find now a days - that goes for many of these - even some of the crosses are tough - DHF DHK DHL etc - B&H Used to sell them a while ago. and Lamps.com did too - been a while since I needed one - I will update this if I find a source for you - Best
@@Mediaman67 than you I will continue the hunt, it's good to know that there are cross overs, I have an antique lighting company in my hometown that might have some of those other models. Thank you for your help
@@MrEmery4178 Sure thing - they are pricey when you do find them because I think they all used those Mirrored bulbs. I think any or most of the DJ series would work, as they were about all the same size - 150watts is what you want ideally. I remember when they were $20 a piece and I thought that was a rip off, now people would be happy to pay that for them :-) - Let me know what you find :-)
Found the 481a design of this projector at a second hand shop for $20. I was looking for one that fed easier than my GAF model projector. Your video was a huge help in testing all of the functions of the B&H projector! Thanks so much for sharing your expertise. My new BH seems flawless in every way except that the image projected is super washed out, like way too super bright & loss of color. I know it's not the tape, as the colors are more vibrant and normal when projected on the GAF. The BH bulb looks good, 150watt and from what I can tell is the correct bulb. Have you seen anything like this before in BH projectors? Do you have any advice on how to improve the projected image quality?
Check the Lens - you can pull it out, (I think this one slides out when you pull up on the focus knob) - look at it in both directions - I bet it looks cloudy - common with lenses for moisture to get it there from a damp basement, etc - I'd try that first
Yes - just google Bell and Howell 456a TIRE www.ebay.com/itm/BELL-HOWELL-456A-458A-466A-471A-476A-477A-481A-PROJECTOR-FILM-ROLLER-FEED-TIRE/292501336441?hash=item441a703179:g:aX8AAOSwUXFcSS0Z
Yeah so I found this projector helping my sister/brother in law clean out their attic. The old man that lived there before left all his crap in the attic, including this model projector. Unfortunately the only film I've found is 4 reels of super 8 stuffed in his box of 1970's Hustler, Beaver, and weird erotic novels, some of which are explicit bestiality novels(no pictures) I bought a new "rubber donut", but still can't get this thing to play. I'm thinking 30 years(house was built in 1988) of hot attic storage has screwed with everything in this projector and it needs to see the care of an expert to get it to 100% Maybe its a good thing I can't get them to play
Yes, Could be the belts have melted, but hard to say without pulling the rear cover... I will tell you one thing - those films you have are worth a bit of money, because the vintage porn market is huge right now - I don't personally watch any of that, but if this is what that stuff is, they could be worth something. People collect everything :-)
It just auto threads onto the take up reel - if you have the B&H take up reel, as shown, or any 7 inch that has the "teeth" inside the hub, it will grab the leader once it's fully threaded into the unit. One thing - I DO NOT recommend letting it auto thread actual film, only the white or blue plastic leader, as the torque of the spinning reel might end up hurting the film's sprocket holes :-) in this case, I would manually wind the film.
No, These 456's are silent film only - you need to look for the Filmosonic that they had in the early 70's, if you are gonna stick with Bell and Howell
You can get both on ebay for cheap now... there was a guy selling the tires... not sure if they are decent... the tire is not that important, but the belts are... I plan on putting up more videos of many other film related items soon, so stay tuned :-)
![MISSING: SLIM SHADY [Expanded Mourner’s Edition Trailer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xh8qgHrOO1g/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you so much we found this in my grandpas basement and I had no clue how to work it!
Hey thanks, yeah I did figure it out although the lens looked clear to me, I had nothing to compare it to until I looked at the GAF lens. The BH lens was fouled with a thin smear of grease or something. I took it all apart and cleaned it & now it is projecting the vibrant colors held by the film that's nearly 50 years old! Pretty awesome! Thanks again for your video, I have learned so much about the BH projectors from watching stuff on RUclips it's really amazing. I appreciate your time take care & God bless...
Just bought one of these in a garage sale for $10 Still works great!
What do I do if my projector gets film stuck in some places which causes the film to backtrack and most of the time snap?
This goes for any projector - you want to keep the film path clean... it's hanging up because of residue from like a bad splice or just dirt from running film in general - dust in the room, etc over time, or the film itself can be dirty. I normally use some good swabs and some alcohol... they all used to include brushes for this purpose. - you also need to keep the film gate clean with a camels hair brush.
Most of the time, you can open the film path areas, esp on the newer style projectors. - if the lens swings away, that will help you too. (esp of course for the film gate)
Don't use alcohol on rubber parts - if those are there, use rubber renew is a great product... I have saved belts using that too, some that were impossible to change or too expensive to replace...
@@Mediaman67 Thank you! Also, are both of the motors supossed to be able to be stopped incredibly easily?
@@texassmelting7550 It's one main motor that drives everything (normally in all projectors) - there are a series of gears, belts, cams and sometimes even pulleys that are designed to switch to do different things depending on the function. - if you mean the reels - yes and no - depending - in FWD the supply reel is mostly just loose with a little pressure sometimes to keep the film on the reel but allow it to feed into the projector - the take up reel in FWD should be fairly powerful, but could be stopped... - in Rev, it's the other way around - in fast reverse, that is a hard and fast pull from the supply reel usually - there is normally a clutch there to prevent it from ruining the film.
Nice Vid! You just made my first use of the 471A I just picked up, an easy one.
Thank you for posting this! Great job
Hi, Thanks - bit long winded, but if it helps anyone, great! - I own like 40 projectors... This one I put on ebay to sell, way back now... seems like that was forever ago :-)
Sorry if this is posted elsewhere, but what could be a reason why my Bell & Howell 456A projector suddenly won't run in reverse? The single frame advance knob spins, but the front reel head won't turn. Is this belt-related? Thanks in advance.
For anyone viewing this as of 2-11-2018, I purchased a 456 at a consignment store. Motor ran and bulb worked. Got it home to find out film wouldn't run thru. If you have minor tools, there are (5) hex head screws on the front to take out and (2) Hex Hd screws underneath. Removal allows the back lid to come off. There you can see the drive belt and what happens when you flip the switch from FWD to Reverse. 2 rubber wheels will engage in a spool. One on top for Reverse....the other is BENEATH the spool/wheel and allows for FWD (maybe the opposite). Get a cotton swab and wet with alcohol and rotate the Aluminum Thumb screw at the front of the machine (in front of lens and above level adjustment knob). YOu will see the wheels rotate. While doing so, with cotton swab cleaning both the upper rubber wheel and top of metal matching spool, this should allow piece to piece friction. The machine I got had not been used in 20 years or so. All was stiff. What I also found was that the "rubber" wheel where the film enters was completely gone. What I dislike about THIS video is the person spinning the story made no effort to pull the cover off to physically check if the drive belt were good. In addition no part numbers (if still available) are provided for the O-ring drive belt, the rubber tire or bulb.
When I try putting the film, the proyector doesnt catch the film and I tried to do it manually and by the time goes all around it get stuck :-/ you know how can I fix it?
you need to be sure that the entire film path is free of debris, etc - and also, open the door, turn on the projector (not the lamp) just the motor, and put it into fwd - and make sure both top and bottom sprocket wheels are turning. - you can manually thread the film all the way to the take up reel if need be... which I would try next, if you do the above - you can "inch" the fwd lever when you have it threaded, and see if everything is advancing correctly, you can keep the door open to see this, but must close it as the registration teeth at the gate need to engage the film, and the pressure plate to keep it flat for good projection of course, but for checking things, you want to be sure there are no jams anywhere... - sometimes a broken (small) piece of film or tape splice can find it's way to the bottom sprocket area, where the film needs to wind correctly, and even a tiny piece there will cause it to hang, and not thread automatically
How does the feed tire come off? Does it just slip off? My feed tire axle was totally froze up I figured out making the rear gear slip and make a clicking noise. I removed the back 2 gears and lubed it well now it turns nicely. I need to remove the tire axle but am unsure how. Would the axle be threaded into the aluminum tire housing piece? Thanks
The Feed Tire is glued in place, so normally if you are having to take it off, you end up ruining it, but normally they need to be replaced anyways, since these are all 50 years old now. Not 100% sure how the capsan comes off - I think it's mounted and secured with a clip ring, but it's been a while now since I overhauled one.
The good news is someone was selling the tires, so you can get them - at least a couple years ago. When I had 30 of these, I bought a whole bunch to refurb them all at once, since these are used on like 15 models of the old B&H "bread box" units. They are all basically the same design. The 487 is great - had mechanical variable speed! - anyways, good luck - sounds like you are doing a great job getting her to stay running for another 50 :-)
Mediaman67 Thanks so much for the reply. I really appreciate it. I’m basically stuck trying to mount the metal flimsy bracket that mounts to the axle after having removed what appears to be a torsional spring. Upon further inspection the spring looking thing just appears to be a pin to hold that flimsy bracket on. Replacing it back and securing the flimsy metal bracket so that it engages on the gear teeth securely is what I’m trying to accomplish. This is been very difficult. I may have to use JB Weld since I cannot seem to get the pin reinserted with the proper attention on the flimsy bracket. Hopefully this all makes some sense!!
For reverse function you need to flip the reel on the left in the upright position
silentsniperrr
Yes, to be clear, rewind function, meaning after the film is through the unit, then lift rear arm, re-thread to front supply reel, and rewind. - however, for reverse projection, you leave it as is...
When I try to thread the film through it is wadding up in the top level right after it goes in. Do you know what might be the problem? Thanks
so, it's feeding it at first, but not allowing it to move into the top of the gate? - my guess is that you have a blockage there... look closely there in the film path, sometimes, a little piece of film or a piece of tape splice can be present, and this would do what you are describing - canned air and a camels hair brush are great to have and sometimes tweezers too... you can manually load the film as well with these - did it for years before I found the rubber replacment tires. all these 60's Bell and Howells used basically the same threading design, with the rubber tire pull down.
be sure to open the lens/bulb door to really look in there - gives you better access to the film path, and you can see what it's doing if you run everything that way - could also be a frozen idler wheel, but not common.
Mine does the exact same thing, I end up just threading it manually because it accordions the beginning of the film pretty badly if I try to have it auto load.
Turns out that the leader on the film I was loading wasn’t trimmed properly, I tried an old Blackhawk Films release that had a correctly trimmed leader end and it threaded with no problems whatsoever.
How much is it for resell
A nice video. In the absence of the manual, this video was very useful for me to understand how to insert the film automatically. Is the movie projector equipped with a speed variator? Where can I find the manual? Thank you
Un bel video. In mancanza del manuale, questo video mi è stato molto utile per capire il modo di inserire la pellicola automaticamente. Il cineproiettore proiettore è munito di variatore di velocità? Dove posso reperire il manuale? Grazie
Thank You for the nice comment :-) - I think the manual for this can be found online as a PDF somewhere, but it's very easy to use. The tricky part, if you never ever threaded it, is to just follow the film path - you can see it all when you pull the lens door away, but so simple after you do it a couple times. BTW - You don't NEED that rubber wheel, but it's nice to have for autoloading - No, The 456a was not a vari-speed projector - they did make a couple in their era, 468 I think it was? and another, that used the same basic design - and I have had a few of those, but they are not very good in terms of being rock solid since they use a mechanical method of changing the speed, and it's just not as good as using a Pot to control the speed. To me, these were some of the best projectors B&H ever made. - 60's quality, and modern look and feel. by the mid 70's, they were making junk... all plastic!
@@mediacreationsusa
Thank you very much for the information, and for your nice comment on the film projectors of ....... plastic. But when it comes to amateur cinema, all projectors are "beautiful", including toys, especially nowadays for those who are so homesick for the 8 and S8. Thank you.
Ti ringrazio molto per le informazioni, e per il tuo simpatico commento ai cineproiettori di ... plastica. Ma quando si parla di cinema amatoriale, tutti i cineproiettori sono "belli", compresi i giocattoli, soprattutto al giorno d'oggi per chi ha tanta nostalgia dell'8 e S8. Grazie.
@@pietroventrella6683 Yes, I agree - I love how many designs these all came in over the years, not just B&H but so so many different names and models - I have a cute little brownie that a child can operate. some of my fav projectors have more plastic than these older B&H units - Another note for anyone reading - these were AKA as the "bread box" projectors from B&H mid to late 60's right after the 300 series, and before the 70's Film-o-sounds were popular.
I HAVE A 456A BELL HOWELL THE LIGHT BULB IS 80WATTS. THE IMAGE IS PALE. WHAT IS THE RIGHT NUMBER OF BULB I SHOULD USE. CAN SOMEBODY TELL ME
DHL I think - it should be a 150 watt Mirrored bulb... they run about $30 new... there are several crosses for this bulb, Thanks
These used the 150 watt mirror bulbs - I think they were the DXL or DHL?
@@Mediaman67 On mine it says to only use DJL Bulbs.
DJL was the original, but there are a couple that cross - it's a 150 watt mirror bulb - @@TheMasterCoder1000
Hi, there is nothing wrong with the reverse action of your projector. Note: In reverse operation, the take-up reel may remain stationary although the film is transporting properly ( Bell & Howell Movie Projector Manual. Chicago, Illinois.)
Good luck!
That wasn't the issue on this one - the rubber was failing I think and it needed to be lubed, yes the take up should move much at all in Reverse for either rewind or reverse projection - I was helping it in both cases to compensate for worn rubber if I recall? - this was almost 6 years ago, so I don't even have it anymore, but I have about 130 projectors here, and know this series pretty well. the 60's "bread box" projectors all work about the same way... best BELL and HOWELLS that were made, IMHO.... and the early Film-o-Sonics, when up to spec.
I have a model 456. The threading tire became very gummy, almost like asphalt. It stuck to the leader on one film, so I cut off the rubber, easy to do since it was so pliable. I haven't tried to thread a film with the tire missing (except for the metal part) though. All else works OK.. Sure wish it had a variable speed control (to adjust for flicker).
New tires on e-bay. Thanks but I'm sort of an experimenter. I can thread by hand if necessary. Actually this 456 (no A with the model number) has a control lever that (not working at present ) allows for "normal" "slow" and "step". Not as good as a variable control however. I wonder... motor...variac...?
Yeah, by hand is fine too - in fact with these that is what I did for years, as the tires were really hard to come by 5 years ago. you need a very good quality pot to do what you are asking... but yes, similar to using a dimmer on lighting... the problem is, you need to find one that can support the extra amps a motor draws, unlike a light... One that would work for something like a ceiling fan motor.... Also, you don't need a huge swing... Reg 8 plays back at 18FPS... so you can slow it down to 15, or go up to 20... either will work, depending on your camera - if your camera can support 1/30th, slow to 15 FPS - if not, speeding to 20 fps works ok for 60P, but not great for 60i - just my 2 cents.... S8 is 24 FPS (as is 16mm) - so I usually slow to 20, and capture at 1/40th or 1/60th if Im in 60P (20x3 is 60)
A GOOD HD camera can actually sync to anything you throw at it... SD cameras are a different story, for most consumer models that is... my HD transfers look as good or usually better than the film in most cases! But there is nothing like watching the color reproduction of GOOD film... those DEEP reds... for example, you just can't get that much contrast and saturation, even in 4:2:2 or SDI direct capture... CLOSE though... Maybe Im just an old Film fool :) - but it does look better....
nice well made, but not recommended for film now, since all metal units like that will eat film, for a number of reasons... still, if it's in mint condition, somewhat collectible... I had a 1922 Victor 16mm bottom load that I sold a few years ago for $2K - but the bulbs were like $75 each! (big and hot!) it ran fine, but I only used junk, or test film to try it out for these same reasons...
mehstgful
Thanks, lots of good details
ill have to check for belt, mine is exactly like this one... maybe try and tighten first ?? idk
the belts just wear out, can't tighten really... but, you can try rubber clean on them, and it might buy you some time... but anything rubber that is 40+ years old is gonna need to be replaced pretty much.
I know you posted this awhile ago but I'm having a hard time finding a replacement bulb
Yeah, they are becoming harder to find now a days - that goes for many of these - even some of the crosses are tough - DHF DHK DHL etc - B&H Used to sell them a while ago. and Lamps.com did too - been a while since I needed one - I will update this if I find a source for you - Best
@@Mediaman67 than you I will continue the hunt, it's good to know that there are cross overs, I have an antique lighting company in my hometown that might have some of those other models. Thank you for your help
@@MrEmery4178 Sure thing - they are pricey when you do find them because I think they all used those Mirrored bulbs. I think any or most of the DJ series would work, as they were about all the same size - 150watts is what you want ideally. I remember when they were $20 a piece and I thought that was a rip off, now people would be happy to pay that for them :-) - Let me know what you find :-)
why is my466 projecto so full of black oil
most likely that is black goo that you see from decay of rubber parts inside - heat and age do wonders on the rubber. -
Found the 481a design of this projector at a second hand shop for $20. I was looking for one that fed easier than my GAF model projector. Your video was a huge help in testing all of the functions of the B&H projector! Thanks so much for sharing your expertise. My new BH seems flawless in every way except that the image projected is super washed out, like way too super bright & loss of color. I know it's not the tape, as the colors are more vibrant and normal when projected on the GAF. The BH bulb looks good, 150watt and from what I can tell is the correct bulb. Have you seen anything like this before in BH projectors? Do you have any advice on how to improve the projected image quality?
Check the Lens - you can pull it out, (I think this one slides out when you pull up on the focus knob) - look at it in both directions - I bet it looks cloudy - common with lenses for moisture to get it there from a damp basement, etc - I'd try that first
This was so helpful as I just acquired one similar thank you thank you
Can I get that capstan wheel?
Yes - just google Bell and Howell 456a TIRE
www.ebay.com/itm/BELL-HOWELL-456A-458A-466A-471A-476A-477A-481A-PROJECTOR-FILM-ROLLER-FEED-TIRE/292501336441?hash=item441a703179:g:aX8AAOSwUXFcSS0Z
I picked one up this year but some idiot glued the lens in place!
Wow - interesting - and totally a great way to ruin it - you can replace the door assembly, but then you need a new lens
9
Thank You
I have one in mint condition, it's damn awesome, I'm about to buy some Star Wars super 8s lol
NICE! - Yeah, these are good machines overall - Not an Elmo though
Yeah so I found this projector helping my sister/brother in law clean out their attic. The old man that lived there before left all his crap in the attic, including this model projector. Unfortunately the only film I've found is 4 reels of super 8 stuffed in his box of 1970's Hustler, Beaver, and weird erotic novels, some of which are explicit bestiality novels(no pictures) I bought a new "rubber donut", but still can't get this thing to play. I'm thinking 30 years(house was built in 1988) of hot attic storage has screwed with everything in this projector and it needs to see the care of an expert to get it to 100% Maybe its a good thing I can't get them to play
Yes, Could be the belts have melted, but hard to say without pulling the rear cover... I will tell you one thing - those films you have are worth a bit of money, because the vintage porn market is huge right now - I don't personally watch any of that, but if this is what that stuff is, they could be worth something. People collect everything :-)
your hand is blocking the most important part of the video 😂 im trying to see how to thread it so the cannister on the left catches the film
It just auto threads onto the take up reel - if you have the B&H take up reel, as shown, or any 7 inch that has the "teeth" inside the hub, it will grab the leader once it's fully threaded into the unit. One thing - I DO NOT recommend letting it auto thread actual film, only the white or blue plastic leader, as the torque of the spinning reel might end up hurting the film's sprocket holes :-) in this case, I would manually wind the film.
@@Mediaman67 i figured it out, thank you!
it is audio sound available
No, These 456's are silent film only - you need to look for the Filmosonic that they had in the early 70's, if you are gonna stick with Bell and Howell
Check electric cable
think mine needs a belt , and that rubber tire
You can get both on ebay for cheap now... there was a guy selling the tires... not sure if they are decent... the tire is not that important, but the belts are... I plan on putting up more videos of many other film related items soon, so stay tuned :-)
You, need a new, drive belt.