BMW R1200GS Coolant Drain, Flush & Refill, Step-by-Step Instructions, Vacuum & Manual Refill Methods
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- This is a detailed step-by-step video instruction on draining and refilling the coolant on a 2016 (and adjacent years) BMW R1200GS Adventure motorcycle. The process will be similar for the R1200GS (non-adventure version) with the slight exception of some body panel/fairing removal. We show every step from removing body panels & crash bar to draining the old coolant, running a flush cycle, and finally refilling with new coolant. We show two methods for refilling with new coolant; a manual refill and burp method and a vacuum refill method. We test out two different vacuum refill kits, one from Costway and a second one called Airlift made by UVIEW. We end with the re-assembly of all body panel/fairings and crash bar showing all torque values and other insights all along the way. Watch until the end, I give a quick summary opinion on the two vacuum refill kits shown in this video.
Check out my R1200GS/A Playlist with other how-to videos:
• BMW R1200GS Adventure
Video chapter markers:
0:33 When to change the coolant
0:50 How to check the coolant
1:40 Quick comment on using the vacuum method for refilling coolant
2:19 Thanks to our donors!
2:40 Roll intro
2:54 Getting a baseline for how the cooling system works before the change
4:03 Tools needed
4:28 Remove body panels and crash guard
6:52 Drain the cooling system
11:23 Run a flush cycle
13:32 Refill with new coolant - method 1 manual fill and burb
16:48 Refill with new coolant - method 2 using Costway vacuum refill kit
20:59 Refill with new coolant - method 2 using Airlift vacuum refill kit
26:12 Reassemble body panels and crash guard
28:32 Final thoughts and close out the episode!
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Tools needed:
Socket wrench
Socket: 15mm
Torque wrench for 5, 10 and 19 Nm
Torx bits: T25, T30, T40
Allen wrench bit: H5
Flathead screwdriver
Wire brush
Hose clamp pliers
Pick
Container (for capturing old coolant and new coolant)
Funnel
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Parts and supplies needed:
Antifreeze/Coolant - about 1.5L after mixing with distilled water (PN 82142209769)
2x Gasket ring/crush washer for drain bolts (PN 07119963073)
Distilled Water (1.5L for flush cycle and 1L for mixing with new coolant concentrate)
Loctite 243
Haynes Manual: haynes.com/en-...
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Parts for Coolant Vacuum Refill:
Air compressor (min. 90psi)
UVIEW 550000 AIRLIFT Cooling System Tester
www.jbtools.co...
Costway Vacuum Refill Kit
www.costway.co...
Astro Vacuum Refill Kit (not shown in video, but original version of the Costway kit)
www.jbtools.co...
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Torque values
* Torque values were taken from the Haynes manual and checked against other online sources
Right cylinder drain plug 15mm socket - 5 Nm (3.7 ft-lb)
Left cylinder drain plug H5 Allen - 10 Nm (7.4 ft-lb)
Crash Bar, Upper where connects to lower crash bar - Torx T40: 19nm (14 ft-lb w/Loctite 243)
Crash Bar, Upper bolt - Torx T40: 19nm (14 ft-lb)
Body panel/fairing screws - 2 Nm (1.5 ft-lb) or hand tighten
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If you'd like to buy me a beer or coffee:
/ zooskifilms
account.venmo.... (user: chomiczewski3@gmail.com)
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#R1200coolant #R1200coolantchange #R1200coolantflush
That is the best coolant replacement video I've seen yet, Motorcycle & Automotive. Thank You!
@jessejamesprovencio8246 - Hey thanks for the comment, it's appreciated! Comments like this keep me going 👍
I agree.
I followed your instructions & the job went very well. Thank you!
@maverick1685 - Awesome! Thank you for the feedback. Happy wrenching!
I don't even own an R1200GS, but I enjoy watching these videos :)
@piranhaa2 - Haha, well I appreciate you watching irregardless of what you ride!
This video is on a total different level to anything, anybody done on coolant service. Well done 👏
@checker3694 - Hey, thank you for taking the time to comment. It helps motivate me to put out more videos. Just need to not let me day job get in the way! Thanks again and happy wrenching!
Nicely done video. I've been frustrated in the past with attempting to use vacuum gizmos and resort to the tried and true methods. The vacuum methods, other than the fitments, are extremely sensitive to pressure via compressor for venturi effect. A good film may be to address which compressors are available that meet or exceed the criteria needed and will fit the needs of the motorcyclist hobbyist. Thanks for your efforts and good work.
@mvalspeed - Thanks for your comments and the suggestion for a future video. That pancake compressor I used in the video seemed to be right on the edge of the proper size for my vacuum kits. The other frustration I had was having too much of an air gap in the hose where the coolant supply started. I was trying to get the coolant supply as close to the valve as possible. Hence the need for additional fill up at the end. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video. I finally got around to change the coolant on my 2018 RT. Very straightforward. The burping/shaking method worked great for me. Measured what came out and put the same back in. Pretty much your measurement.
@The Welderv - Great to hear! Yes, the burping method works great. No fussing around with extra equipment that doesn't fill in one shot. Thanks for sharing!
Bom dia amigo agradeço pelo vídeo detalhado da manutenção do sistema de arrefecimento da gs, parabéns, obrigado, sao jose dos camos, sao Paulo, Brasil. 🤙🏽✌🏼😎👏🏼👍🏻🙏🏼👊🏼
@gilsonbruschii6343 - muito obrigado por assistir e pelo comentário, agradecemos! aliás eu adoro São Paulo, passei muito tempo lá anos atrás a trabalho. Ótimo condado, pessoas e, claro, a comida! fique seguro!
Thanks for the video. I referenced it today when changing the coolant in my 2014 GSA.
@Doug Haddock - You are welcome, glad to hear it was useful. Happy tooling and ride safe!🏍
Great video thank you
@peterston4039 - Thank you for watching and commenting! 👍
Awesome! just awesome! thank you for spoon feeding it to us. You were very thorough with the procedure, extremely helpful!
@ThiqRiq - hey great to hear the video was helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting, it is appreciated! Happy wrenching and ride safe!
Great job buddy , thank you for advising everyone here
@Little bit of everything - Thanks for the comment for watching, much appreciated!👍
Impressed by the quality of the video, sir!
@Ayman Elsawy - Thank you for the comment, and for watching! 👍 You stud!
KING.......
@Zeljko Bulatovic - Thank you for the nice comment. I would only add "of self inflicted pain"! Thanks again and much appreciated!
I don’t know how I’m just discovering your channel now! Great presentation and production, excellent camera angles, well thought out execution and editing. Bravo! Subscribed!
@Matt Phelps - Thanks Matt! Appreciate you watching and subscribing. I make the videos I want to watch, with the detail and video quality that makes everything as clear as possible. Although when I go back and watch things over again, I see I could have added a little more detail. Very motivating to get your comments, glad to hear the video was helpful. And sorry for the delay in responding, have been fighting the big bug for the past month, really put me out. Anyway, thanks again!
Es el mejor video de la vida 🎉
@addinson01 - ¡Muchas gracias por ver el vídeo y dejar un bonito comentario!
AMAZING walk through. You show us what we need to do - nothing more nothing less. Thanks!
@GV Motoring - Thanks for watching and for the comment, it is appreciated!
Thank you 🙃
@Jakub Bębenista - Thank you !! ✌🤘👌👍
While the IV method was neat and easy, the system didn't fill at first. When the Radiator filled i needed to run the bike to temp, cool it down and add perhaps another 200ml. Burping the bike produced more space for perhaps another 100ml. I think most of the space which remained after the first fill was in the left-side radiator, and rocking the bike sent the air along the crossover pipe to the right radiator. Overall an easy job - I didn't even need the hose removal tool kit - and the bike's temps are fine. Thanks again for a great video.
@James Madura - Awesome, great to hear your experience! Yeah, I think getting the bike up to temp and letting that thermostat open up to let coolant flow to that side is a must regardless of which method you choose. Thanks again for sharing!
I replaced the coolant in my 2016 R1200 GSA in 2021 when it was 5 years old. I didn't need to use any specialized tools such as a vacuum filler, although I have one for the Porsche. I just drained the coolant and then filled it with distilled water and drained it for 5 times till the water was clear allowing the thermostat to open each time. Then I filled it with the BMW coolant which I later found out Valvoline Zerex G48 is equivalent. I cleaned and flushed out my coolant reservoir as well. By the way, the odd coolant drip out of the coolant pump drain hole stopped and never came back.
@a.c.e.7568 - Yeah, the manual method works just as well, just need to clear the air gaps by burping it out. Great to hear that drip has stopped. I got a few requests to make a video on replacing the coolant pump, seems that drip issue is common. Cheers!
Thanks Buddy.
Very helpful, good quality.
Just replaced the left radiator on the 1250GS.
@Elmbys Trafikskola - Thanks for the comment! Hope the replacement job went well. Cheers!
I REALLY enjoyed this video. It was well paced, intelligently presented and very clear. GREAT JOB!
@B0M0A0K - Thank you for the comment, it is appreciated! I know it was a long video, but I wanted to present both options and let people decide which method they prefer to use. Cheers!
Excellent tutorial. I love your deliberate, practical approach ( a lot like mine!) I both "liked" and Subscribed". I was about to take my 2016 Ocean Blue GSA (Invictus!) into the dealer for a $300+ coolant drain/fill because I had reservations about the process. I found your video and the reservations evaporated. I think I'll try the manual fill and burp method, as I have access to IV bags and supplies. I can slowly drip the coolant into the system at a snails pace, perhaps eliminating most of the air in the system - it'll be interesting to see how well that works.
Thanks again, supreme work my friend.
@James Madura - Hey great news! Thanks for watching, subscribing, liking and commenting. It is appreciated! Yes, a slow manual fill and burp will work perfectly. Filling slowly with iv bags will prevent any trapped air. Interesting to know if it still burps. Let us know how it works out. Looks like we have the same year model. Mine is called “the Beast”. I gave it that name after coming home one day and my wife commented on the sound. She said the bike growls. Great sound even with factory exhaust. Thanks again and happy wrenching!
Another really helpful, informative & well narrated Video 👍
@Emsill63 Cazm63 - Thanks so much for the comment and for watching! 😄
Hi….. following your instructions on your video I have just finished a coolant change on my GSA, which by the way were very helpful👍….. all has gone well apart from I am showing a slight increase in temperature from the old coolant to the new coolant the fan was coming on about 99°C, with the new coolant it is rising up to about 104/106° C…….. is something that you have experienced in the past …. Thanks Mark
@Emsill63 Cazm63 - Hello (are you Mark also??)! Thanks for watching the video and your question. Actually I was very interested in seeing how the cooling system reacted before and after the coolant change. In my case both the thermostat and the cooling fan are opening and coming on at the same temperature as before. I'm not sure why it would have changed. Are you using the same coolant as before? Is the mix of water and coolant the same as before (assuming 50/50?)? Is the 104/106 deg C the overshoot or when the fan turns on? Seems we should be able to explain the change!
Excellent video. Thanks for making this for us.
@Louis Gara - Thank you for the comment, it is appreciated!
Great work as usual. I’ll certainly be performing this task at the end of this riding season. Thanks again for creating this video for the rest of us. Your time, resources, and effort is certainly appreciated!
@Dan Tilden - Thanks Dan, I appreciate the comment and hope this video helps. Have a great and safe riding season!
You're a funny, funny man! I thank you again for such great information.
Wondering, though, why you decided to refill with the quantity you removed rather than with whatever quantity specs recommend? Maybe they're the same, yeah?
@Mark Locke - Good question, I can see I didn't address that here. Basically I wanted to fill up with at LEAST the same amount as what was drained out, which is (for most fluids in an engine) typically less than the stated full capacity, let's say what it would take when built brand new. There will always be a small amount of residual fluid left inside after a draining. If the bike needed more coolant that what was drained, that is no issue, I would certainly add it. In my case it was max'd out with the same amount as what was drained. Hope this makes sense! Thanks!
Great videos! Thanks for sharing your expertise.
@J F - Thank you for the nice comment and for watching!
EXCELLENT!
@william Banzhof - Thanks for the comment!
Great job, thanks for your wonderful nature providing us with great advice. BTW do you get to keep the spare change in the glove box ;)
@Othoap Proto - Thank you for the comment and for watching! And to answer your question: no, absolutely not. My wife claims all $$. Haha, thanks again!
Muito bom o vídeo e muito explicativo. Vou fazer em minha R1250GSA. Obrigado amigo.
@Junior - Obrigado por assistir e pelo comentário!
Gracias A+++
@Pablo Soto - Por nada! Thank you 🙏 for watching and commenting!
Muito excelente, boa explicação. Vou fazer na minha gs1200
@Traquino Laissone Sizala - Obrigado pelo comentário e por assistir. Desejo muito sucesso na troca do refrigerante!
Great and helpful video, thanks. I noticed that when you start up the bike, first second or so it made some wierd kind of noise. Mine does the same and once wondered if its normal or not. Can you tell something about it?
@Richard - Thanks for the comment and question. Are you referring to that chirping sound right at the beginning when starting the engine, or just after that? That chirp is definitely the starter motor, then it rev's up a little and then back down. If it's that chirp, my R1200GSA has always done that, and you should it hear it on my Honda Forza, even louder and more prominent. Anyway, let me know if that's what you're talking about. Now I'm getting a little bike-self-conscious on any noise!🤘
Very useful video for any dyi rookie.
I own a s1000xr (2021) and I’m about to do the same, but I can’t find any drain bolts (no mention of them even in the workshop manual), the instructions are limited to unplugging the hoses from the pump and to detach the reservoir, but I think that doing so will not drain the whole coolant content from the system.
So I plan to try with the vacuum method, since I have a kit identical to the type 1 you’re showing in the video.
Do you think it could do for draining the whole coolant and flush the system, before filling it again?
Thanks in advance.
@Davide Bellocchi - Yeah, that will definitely remove any left over coolant in the system, and you'll know it when it starts spraying out. You might want to try and capture it somehow to measure what is sitting in there after draining the hoses and reservoir. Love that XR by the way, had my eye on it myself but my lovely wife put the kabash on it. Something about me not needing a bike for every day of the week. Sheesh! Good luck and let us know how it works out. Cheers.
Great video. I have a 2020 1250 GSA and checked the BMW maintenance schedule after watching this. BMW doesn’t mention changing the coolant, just checking it. I’ve since read that BMW uses a “permanent” antifreeze on these new shift cam models that isn’t meant to be changed, although after contacting my dealer he said you can still change it every 3-4 years, which I would still do at that interval unless I noticed the coolant level declining for some reason.
Btw, I’ve seen your video on rear spline lubrication if I’m not mistaken. Have you done the front yet?
@Ron Coleman - Thanks for the comment and watching! And yes, no mention of a coolant change service interval on my 2016 either. I suspect it's a long life type coolant but in my experience, everything breaks down and loses efficiency (in this case cooling efficiency). I was thinking I should have sent out the old coolant I drained to a lab to measure it's state compared to new coolant. I live in a temperate climate and will change every 5 years. If I lived somewhere that was warmer, I might change that to every 3 years. On that spline lube video, no, I haven't done the trans side yet, but I plan on it. Look for a video update release on that, probably in March or April. Cheers!
Great video and very useful. What was that tool you used to get the radiator hose clamp off?
@Ryan Malone - Thanks for watching and the question. That tool is a hose clamp tool, it wratches in steps and locks there until you release the lock. You can find one here: www.amazon.com/Pliers-Removal-Installation-Ring-Type-Flat-Band/dp/B07CR6BN2Y . Hope this helps!
@@zooskifilms I just started doing all my own GS maintenance and didn’t even know this existed. I even cut off a clamp when installing a Stage 2 kit and replacing the velocity stacks because I didn’t even know a tool like this existed. Your videos ARE SO HELPFUL. I couldn’t do any of this without people like you and YT. I’ve liked, subscribed, turned on notifications, and saved many of your videos. Thanks for replying. I owe you one.
@@ryanmalone2681 - Ok, well that’s awesome, really appreciate the support. I also owe many others on YT myself, saved me time, money and frustration over the years. I started making my own videos to cover things I wanted to see in videos that I didn’t see in others. Mainly more details, not assuming people know each specific step. I still have some work to do, I get questions on things that tell me I should have covered more detail. Anyway thanks again!
Hi …… I have just followed your guide to changing the cooling system it was extremely helpful, my GSA Has always switch the the fan on at 99°……. after that the cool change tends to run up to 104/106° ….. have you experienced this slight temperature increase when you’ve changed yours
Please check my response to your other post on same subject. Thanks!
Your videos are really very good, educational and very clear. Cheer ! Thanks to you I got into the maintenance of my 1200GSA. I have a question about draining the coolant: you indicate a tightening torque of the right cylinder drain screw of 5mN. On my ETAI "technical motorcycle magazine", it is indicated 10Nm (same value for the 2 left and right cylinder drain screws). What is the correct value and are you sure of the value of 5Nm?
@Eric & Mara - Thanks for watching and for the comment! As far as the torque value for the right cylinder drain plug, I got the 5Nm value from the Haynes service manual. From what I've heard some people replace the factory drain plug from the right cylinder with the one used on the left cylinder. In this case the torque value would be the same. The original one on the right cylinder is a special plug that is used for filling the cooling system at the factory. To date I have not had any leaks from that right cylinder, so I'm pretty confident the 5Nm is correct. I welcome any other comments from other users, especially from someone who may have the BMW service manual. Hope this helps!
@@zooskifilms Hello,
Thank you for your precise, detailed and reasoned answer.
The threads of the right and left cylinder bleed screws having the same characteristics (M10x1) I still find it difficult to explain a difference in tightening torque. Moreover, a torque of 5 Nm seems to me intuitively low for M10x1. Wouldn't the torque of 5 Nm be that applied to the very small screw (whose function I don't understand) which is at the end of the rod fitted at the factory on the right cylinder?
@@ericmara7555 - Agreed on the thread being the same on each cylinder, so one would assume the same torque setting for both. The only difference is the length on them. The longer banjo bolt on right cylinder has a check valve where that very small screw sits, for filling up coolant at the factory. Don't have a torque spec on that small screw though.
Can you make one video on changing coolant of Honda Forza 300
@Suraj Bhandari - Thank you for your message! Ok, I will add this to my list of videos to make for the Honda Forza. I had plans to do it this summer but did not have time. I will push it up the list, hope to make it in the next month or two. Thank you again!
When you performed the vacuum fill, did you need to clamp the hose leading from the radiator to the overflow tank?
Really enjoyed this video. Dreaded having to buy a compressor and vacuum fill tool. After watching your process for the manual fill / burp method, that’s how I will proceed.
@Michael Maddox - Nope, didn't clamp the hose to the overflow tank. Not sure if there is a check valve or if the vacuum port covers that line. When you pull a vacuum it holds without clamping that line. And yes, definitely, I felt the same dread, and this was the longest video to make thus far. In the end, knowing what I now know, the fill and burp method is the way to go. Thanks for watching and commenting! 🤘
Great tutorial. I like that seat! Wonder if it would fit the 1250 GSA?
@Stretch MFE - Thanks for the comment and for watching! It would definitely fit, because the seat is converted using the same seat frame, you need to send it in to the folks at Day Long. They will then form the new seat and padding based on the style you want. Here is a link to their website, I will have to make a video on this one of these days! day-long.com/
Did you test the coolant after you pulled it? Just curious if it needed changing.
Thanks!
@Michael Vadney - I didn't check it. In retrospect I should have, just to see how it was standing up after 5 years. Could have reinforced or refuted BMW's claim of lifetime use. Damn!
Zoo, only ONE nylon push pin????????????? Also nice classic red BMW in the background while mixing the new coolant.
@David Westsmith - Yes can you believe only one! Nice catch on the R100/7 in the background. Did you notice the small hammer near the clutch? No questions about that yet! Cheers!
@@zooskifilms I wondered about the hammer - so what's the story on that?
@@louisgara8754 - Ha, finally someone asked! I need a piece of wood to prevent the clutch arm from pressing against the frame, I'm changing out the cable and the spring forces that lever outward when the cable is removed. I didn't really notice it in the shot until editing. Anyway, nothing extraordinary, Thanks for asking!
Gracias por el vídeo 👏👏👏👏
¿Cual es el mejor método de los 3?
Creo que el 1º es más fácil?
Un saludo y gracias
✌️😎✌️🇪🇸
@Gs - ¡Gracias por tu comentario y pregunta! Creo que el primer método (manual) lleva un poco más de tiempo, pero no necesita ninguna herramienta especial y funciona bien. El método de vacío con el kit Airlift fue el método más rápido, y el método de vacío también se recomienda en el manual de servicio de BMW. Ya compré el kit Airlift, así que lo usaré en el futuro, pero si no lo compré, usaría el primer método, ¡seguro! ¡Gracias de nuevo!
@@zooskifilms gracias a ti por la respuesta!!! En breve tengo que cambiar el refrigerante!!!! Lo haré con el método manual!!!! Gracias 🤩 😁👋
@@Gergus_ - ¡El placer es mío, señor! Espero que este video te haya ayudado. ¡Estar a salvo!
Why the vacuum method over the manual burping?
@Michael amaru - I did both here, both work well. The vacuum method might be a little faster and not seed as many shakes and burps. At the end of the video I mention both methods work just fine. Hope this helps!
Thanks for sharing, how is your summer so far?
@mojah1 - So far so good. How about you?
One question. When using the first first fill system, you ran out of vacuum. Do you think if you pulled a second vacuum, would it have filled it completely?
@Ed Syphan - Do you mean pull a second vacuum to increase the total vacuum pressure before releasing the coolant? I did open the compressed air valve a couple times to see if the vacuum pressure would increase, but it wouldn't. I wonder if I should have increased the air pressure at the compressor. You can't pull a second vacuum after coolant is in the system, so it (vacuum) has to be there before releasing the coolant line. The other tricky thing is making sure the supply coolant line doesn't have any air pockets. I had a difficult time accomplishing that but I was finally able to do so. I saw other videos where people just put the hose into the coolant but the line between the coolant and the valve on the kit was empty, which means the first thing to enter the coolant line in the bike when opened would be air. I wanted to prevent that and make sure coolant was right at the valve when it opened. Hope that makes sense. Let me know if I didn't answer your question. Thanks again!
@@zooskifilms Yes, I thought that after you put the first load of coolant in and it settled, then add more vacuum. But I guess that's been tried?
@@edsyphan3425 - Ok, I understand now. Once the coolant is in the system you cannot pull another vacuum. If you try, the coolant in the system will be sucked out. So you need to pull the vacuum with the cooling system empty. If the vacuum is not strong enough, you won't be able to get the system to pull in enough new coolant.Too much vacuum is not good either, follow the recommended vacuum pressure from vacuum kit manufacturer. With both kits I tried I had to add more coolant after the vacuum sucked in new coolant. My thought is that is ok, because the vacuum fill will make sure there are no air pockets downstream in the cooling system. The only pocket should be near the fill neck, which is gone once you add more coolant. Hope this makes sense!
@@zooskifilms I just changed the coolant in my Tiger shortly before buying the GS. They put a bleed plug on the opposite side of the radiator. It makes it a five minute job. BMW always has to. make things fun.
@@edsyphan3425 - Amen to that!
At 24:00, when you let some air in, couldn't you have just sucked on the partial fill, and fill the rest, without draining the partial fill first? (The coolant might "boil" a bit though at the low pressure? But maybe only briefly, I think it would have worked..)
@Peter Baumgart - Thanks for your question. Yes, I could have certainly manually filled up the remaining coolant and burped the bike (as I did in the first manual method), but I wanted to see how much coolant this kit would suck in if done properly. Especially since the Costway kit didn't suck in enough coolant to fill to the top, so it was more for my curiosity and to make a better comparison between the two vacuum kits. The Airlift refill kit did a much better job, so if you want to use a vacuum method (which is recommended by the BMW service manual), thenI would recommend the Airlift over the Costway. There are other vacuum kits out there, just wanted to present a clear comparison between the Costway and the Airlift kits. Thanks again!
@@zooskifilms Thanks, makes sense then. Considering that the flush is needed "rarely" (years to forever) I'll just do the simple burping method i suppose...
@Peter Baumgart - A good plan!
Subscribe to my channel and get notified every time I release a new video: ruclips.net/user/zooskifilms
Is filling without vacuum kits ok?
@ramv - Yes, absolutely. I actually do this job three times in the video: first time is a manual fill and burp method, the second and third time use two different vacuum system products. It's a long video but covers a lot of methods. Here is the quick link to the manual method at 13:32 : ruclips.net/video/wosn1_S4UIE/видео.html
@@zooskifilms thanks for the prompt reply. Your work is among the best i have seen. A lesson in how to instruct.
@@ramv - Thanks for the comment and for watching, it is appreciated!
👍💪
👍✌
Merhaba ben Türkiye'den yazıyorum bende 2001 model BMW R 1150 GS motor var burada parça bulması çok zor parça lazım olduğunda sizden tedarik edebilirmiyim teşekkür ederim iyi günler kolay gelsin
@AVKAN AKGÜN - Merhaba - Tabii, hangi bölümü bilmeme izin verin ve ne yapabileceğime bir bakayım. En iyisi!
ฉันสามารถติดต่อคุณได้ทางใด
@หมาแก่พาเที่ยว- ฉันได้รับอีเมลของคุณแล้ว ผมจะติดต่อกลับไปครับ
Hello, please, I have a question about Qmeno Fashi, where can I get it?
@Gafo Hosh - Sorry, I didn't get your question. Not sure what "Qmeno Fashi" is.
@@zooskifilms In this particular section,ruclips.net/video/OVej46Q2apQ/видео.html 20:16
Typical insane lack of access and bewildering number of tools. Also the issue of whether coolant lasts forever is not decided. THAT WOULD BE FIRST.
@robertlee8042 - Yes, this is not your father's BMW. For me, changing the coolant is for peace of mind. I'll probably do a test strip on the next go-around. Cheers!
I'm sorry my friend, I gave you a dislike. Because it is very simple and you made it very complicated. By using pressure equipment that no need for it. You supposed to make videos for ordinary people and not for use by the specialized maintenance workshop of companies. Simplicity is beautiful
Maybe watch everything first before commenting? And read the replies? This video shows all possible methods. From just a manual dummy fill to the vacuum option. Up to the viewers to decide what methods to choose. The author has done a lot of work. Let’s thank him for this!
@Reinout Bouman - Thnaks for pointing that out! I’m behind on responding to comments. But you’re exactly right, I showed the two options and at the end of the video commented the manual fill and burp method is just as good as the vacuum fill method. Thanks for your support!
@Bike Story - thanks for your comment but it seems you didn’t watch the entire video. The first method I showed was a manual refill. I know the video is long but I put chapter markings in the description so you can quickly jump to the section of interest. Anyway you are free to dislike the video, but in this case I would take your comments to heart if you watched the entire video first. Cheers!