Pricing just in!! Here you go!! 20g NPT Basket Only - $300 (Basket +single NPT fitting on top of basket) 20g TC Basket Only - $325 (Basket +single TC fitting on top of basket) 20g NPT Full System - $1,775 (Kettle, Basket, Controller, Pump and Hardware. Chiller optional) 20g TC Full System - $1,975 (Kettle, Basket, Controller, Pump and Hardware. Chiller optional)
Thanks for the demo Brian, as always your unbiased opinion is appreciated. Comparing that system with the CHS 20gal, the SB with no chiller or hop baskets is ~$75 more than the same size system. Add a plate chiller and the 2 hop baskets, included with the CHS system, and its approximately an additional $200 which puts it at $1975 for an almost identical system. IMHO, I don't see any reason to spend an additional $200 for a name. Maybe I'm missing something but I guess when you do the brew day on the CHS 10gal system we will get a better idea of which one is better for our individual situations. one thing to keep in mind is that, as far as I know, CHS does not offer the TC options so if that's a thing for you then SB hit your niche.
@@chiefsmash7516 I hear ya.. Good to have options IMO.. I personally don't really see the need for TC fittings... Don't get me wrong they look cool as shit.. But I like cam locks.. Lol👍🍻
I have been electric brewing for a good while now, and I have not had much luck with PID controllers. An autotune might work well with one grain bill, but not another. The latest iteration of my brewing controller uses Auber Instruments DSPR 120 for mashing temperature control and boil intensity control, and they're pretty much bulletproof. No massive temperature fluctuations as well as being able to 'feather' the element with a 60hz power switching cycle makes it easy to maintain temps, greatly reduces the chance of scorching, and generally makes for a smoother brew day. I actually just sent this to spike as a suggestion.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers You're right, the DSPR 120 is a PID, but it seems to be ideally set for this purpose and there's no need for an auto tune. I particularly like the fact that it doesn't overshoot the temperature and it doesn't operate on a 2 second interval. No pulsing boil, and it can vary the duty cycle with much better precision to hit temps.
Since this is basically a BIAB system. I was surprised you did not use a hop basket instead of dropping them directly into the wort. Hop baskets, like BIAB, keeps a lot of solids out of your chiller and fermenter. Also makes cleanup a little easier.
Glad you got to share all of this. I have been following and been getting emails from Spike in regards to this system. Looking forward to the autotune info and second brew session.
It's 2020 and homebrewers still think you "extract tannins" from heat. It's largely due to mash pH which should never be an issue unless you over mash, oops, over sparge. Great video, thanks!
As I suggested before, split the output to the recirc and whirlpool at the same time. It will allow you to keep the recirc slow while not completely choking the pump down. The added benefit is more homogeneous temps in the lower area. I personally wouldn't do a sparge but if I did, I would be adding the sparge water immediately after pulling the basket up so that water was being added before the wort level dropped below the top of the grain. There is a very real chance of oversparging when sprinkling over exposed grain.
Enjoyed the video Brian! You should have left the dead lift of the grain basket to the sink in the video. It would have been interesting to see how you handled that. Had to be a challenge!
What I've found with PIDs is that, because they're self learning, you should only run them when everything is running as expected. By that I mean if you turn it on without the pump it will learn how long it takes to heat up without the pump, then you turn the pump on and it will see the temp dropping quicker so will overcompensate. Same with turning the element off, it will think it needs to add more power as it's not getting the response it expects... I used to do the same dance as you but I've started to turn the PID off (not the element) when I'm not recircing or when just heating up static water and it seems to help. I only run the PID when the pump is on.
Yes I'm familiar with how PIDs operate and how to tune them. This one is not self learning it has a auto tune program you run it through. I'll cover it in my next video.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Sorry, I wasn't saying you didn't at all. Just my experience is that (regardless of autotuning) they don't know when you're bypassing them so they panic and try to overcompensate. Turning the element off when it thinks it's on will confuse it regardless of autotune. Just my anecdotal 2c, not contradicting what you said. Peace and love...
@@MrRobhadfieldwasn't offended..didn't mean to seem that way... I turned it off because I knew at that point it wasn't auto tuned and was going to way overshoot my mash.. I wouldn't have done that had I not had that concern. Once auto tuned I wouldn't mess with the element switch. Cheers Rob! 👍🍻
The overshoot sounds like it could be integral wind-up. The longer and longer it sits thinking its On with the manual switch off it will accumulate error in the integral term. If it was an auto-tuning issue you probably would've seen overshoot on the initial strike water heating as well.
It's great to see you test all different systems and brew with trial and error (with respect). I still love Brewtools best and it's in the same price range. In my opinion, it is too expensive and it has nothing to do with the problem you have encountered. The control unit is just to much DIY, and I have doubts that the hooks on the side of the malt tube will stay attached, or if it damaged the side of the grain basket, that's just my opinion anyway. Thanks for the video.
I already have a 20 gallon kettle from Spike that I use with a custom Utah Biodiesel basket. I think I'm gonna try this basket out. No complaints with the basket from UTB, but this seems like it will be easier to lift, drain, and clean than the all mesh basket.
Looks like it needs a floating slotted plate on top of the grain bed, to distribute the recirc, stop the channelling. Second thought is, heavy basket, hanging on one side to drain, does it feel unstable at all? Falling over at this point would suck. Those points aside, looks seriously legit. Between the unboxing (sorta) and this, solid review.
Thank you for your video very helpful i am beginner starting learning make beer i have a question what model in this video includes everything how much Thank you Have a good day
Cool. I'm still mashing as I type this. The autotune should fix your problem. It worked fine for me after autotuning it. Mash temperatures on mine were only +/-1 deg F.
Looks pretty solid! Thanks for all the hard work Brian! I really appreciate your videos and how you care about giving the consumer as much info to help them make a more educated decision!
Ok so here’s the big question. Which system do you prefer? The Blichmann Breweasy or the Spike Solo? While taking everything into consideration. I have the Blichmann. I don’t “love” it but all systems will have their downfalls.
I prefer the brew easy. The only thing that the brew easy needs to be a better system in my opinion is the thermo well for the brew commander as a standard option so you can insert the temperature probe into the kettle when boiling. The brew easy has much better flow through its smash tun. 👍🍻
Haven't even used a system with a pump before, but is sparging necessary is you were recirculating for the whole mash? I know you took your profile from beersmith, just wanted your opinion. Thanks for the great video! Always appreciate your hard work!
Great video! How well does the recirculation work post-boil for focusing hop sediment into the center, allowing you to pull the boiled wort out without bringing in the gunk?
Awesome video. Can you please tell us the height of the kettle with the basket draining on top? I want to see if it will fit in my space in the basement
Hi Brian. I brew in a all in one brewha conical fermenter. So in mine there is 7 litres of water in the cone or dead space before I put the colander in. How do I adjust the mash water volume for this? Thank you.
I’m surprise that you tried to use the butterfly valve to control flow. They’re really not designed for that. Recommend opening it all the way. After that, use the ball valve after the pump to control the flow. That should give you more consistent control.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers They really shouldn't be used on kettles smaller than 1BBL but I can't blame Spike for offering it that way since so many goofballs want.....
Our complete system will use ball valves on the outlet of the pump to control flow precisely. We did not supply a pump for this BETA test and therefore Brian used his own.
I saw that the 15 gallon specs are for 2.5 to 5 gallon batches, but I wonder if it could do a one gallon batch? I know the 10 gallon says up to 2.5 gallons, but I feel like one could easily do 5 gallons as well. Don’t know. I do 1 to 5 gallon batches, so I’d want it to cover that range.
The batch sizes are mainly to do with voltage and amperage of the element power. I doubt with the amount of space under the basket in this system. There probably will be more than a gallon under the basket. 👍🍻
What is the kind of material on your walls? I'm looking at laminate but wondering if the heat and moisture will be an issue. Also considering glue down vinyl or wood-look tile. Thanks for all the great videos.
Thanks for the detailed video! Two questions; Do you think you would be able to attach a lid mounted steam condenser with the kettle clamp to this unit? What do you use for a stand? Any one in particular you would recommend? Thanks again Brian!
1st: Brian, thanks for brewing on a school night. I'm kidding, but I know its tougher when you have to get up the next day and be a real person. 2nd: you've already heard too much about butterfly valves. They're nifty to clean though! 3rd: Do you think the performance and/or features of the baskets warrants usage on other setups, such as SSBrewtech 1v system, Blichmann systems etc ? My question really comes down to the PID and if you think its suitable or if there are better options out there presently?
I think the basket worked well. I personally am fine with a PID based system. Really reliable and accurate (when tuned!!!) And they generally last a long time. I think to stay "relevant" With the upcoming generation of brewers some "connectivity" Is being sought after. How much is anyones guess. Thanks for the questions! 👍🍻
@@tactical_overland_zr2188 lol sorry. I will say the brew easy classic does perform better than the solo. Much better drainage. Lots of people have had issues with the solo basket flow. 👍🍻
Do you have any helpful hints on how to prevent a stuck mash? Spike recommends 0.035" as a grain mill gap size and I'm currently at 0.040". I've had two stuck mashes to date. Grain mill size is larger than recommended, I wait 10 minutes before recirculating and I'm recirculating at far less than 25% pump capacity...more like 3-5%
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thank you very much. And I'm a member of your channel. I am not fluent in English but I communicate with Google Translate. Thank you again .. Good luck.👍👍🌷💗💙💚💖🌷
It isn't mine it is is actually one from. My home brew club.. I won last montha competition and got to keep it for a month.. I'll see if they can tell me where the got it.. 👍🍻
It is one that I use on my HERMS system. I liked to be able to quickly turn off the flow when changing hoses etc. And not change the flow rate. Not necessary. Just my own preference. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers I asked SB during the live brew day (it was either Larry or Brian's) and they said the steam condenser would be available at launch.
Hi thanks for the great videos. I am running the 20 gallon 240v system with a BrewCommander and my books never get above 210 degrees and the boil only appears to be boiling above where the element is located in the as well as in the shape of the element. I have been doing 6 gallons batches if that helps. Any ideas? I have emailed both clawhammer and blichmann and still can't figure this out.
Actually no.. Talked to them today.. You can and maybe get a couple more gravity tenths but not designed for it.. My next batch is gonna be a no sparge 5.5 gallon batch to see if it will do it!! 👍🍻
TheDhoyt1234 no not a problem maintaining it. If that’s your boiling point it will boil harder than necessary. You don’t need to boil that vigorously..it is designed like a commercial brewery type control. It is PID based.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers yeah I understand PID loops, I'm a DDC technician so I'm very familiar. That's why I was curious, a PID will maintain whatever you set it to if it's tuned properly so I thought it was weird to set it to manual.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers they are valves that are designed for flow control. Gate valves are for on and off. That Blinchman pump is almost like one. Instead of a cone or needle valve its a disk in the horizontal position.
@@gregorywinters4697 Yeah i looked it up after your comment. Interesting valve for sure. I assume the reason that no one has used them on a brewing system is expense?
Pricing just in!! Here you go!!
20g NPT Basket Only - $300 (Basket +single NPT fitting on top of basket)
20g TC Basket Only - $325 (Basket +single TC fitting on top of basket)
20g NPT Full System - $1,775 (Kettle, Basket, Controller, Pump and Hardware. Chiller optional)
20g TC Full System - $1,975 (Kettle, Basket, Controller, Pump and Hardware. Chiller optional)
The baskets are a good price! I suspect they will be a vary popular option.
Thanks for the demo Brian, as always your unbiased opinion is appreciated. Comparing that system with the CHS 20gal, the SB with no chiller or hop baskets is ~$75 more than the same size system. Add a plate chiller and the 2 hop baskets, included with the CHS system, and its approximately an additional $200 which puts it at $1975 for an almost identical system. IMHO, I don't see any reason to spend an additional $200 for a name. Maybe I'm missing something but I guess when you do the brew day on the CHS 10gal system we will get a better idea of which one is better for our individual situations. one thing to keep in mind is that, as far as I know, CHS does not offer the TC options so if that's a thing for you then SB hit your niche.
@@chiefsmash7516 I hear ya.. Good to have options IMO.. I personally don't really see the need for TC fittings... Don't get me wrong they look cool as shit.. But I like cam locks.. Lol👍🍻
Well I was off :)
Did they release pricing for the 15gal?
Well done. I like it, nice to see the prototype model and Spike's transparency in development. On the way to a great little unit.
Yeah pretty cool they let us show the prototype. 👍🍻
Maybe they can develop a hook that can attach to the basket handles to aid in the lifting with a gantry system.
Every listen to Brian. LET IT REST 10min. So many stuck mashes on my Breweasy. This works.
Thanks!! It really does! 👍🍻
I have been electric brewing for a good while now, and I have not had much luck with PID controllers. An autotune might work well with one grain bill, but not another.
The latest iteration of my brewing controller uses Auber Instruments DSPR 120 for mashing temperature control and boil intensity control, and they're pretty much bulletproof. No massive temperature fluctuations as well as being able to 'feather' the element with a 60hz power switching cycle makes it easy to maintain temps, greatly reduces the chance of scorching, and generally makes for a smoother brew day.
I actually just sent this to spike as a suggestion.
The DSPR120 is a PID. I've had great results with PID based systems personally no matter the batch size. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers You're right, the DSPR 120 is a PID, but it seems to be ideally set for this purpose and there's no need for an auto tune. I particularly like the fact that it doesn't overshoot the temperature and it doesn't operate on a 2 second interval. No pulsing boil, and it can vary the duty cycle with much better precision to hit temps.
Very cool. Eager to see what the final system will look like. Hopefully they have it at HomebrewCon. See ya there ;-)
Yeah! Me too. I would think they will! 👍🍻
Ooo the anticipation!!
Impressive presentation. This Spike system looks good, even with the tapered inner basket and one sided resting lugs.
YeH not really an issue to me they feel plenty secure. Once the taper gets fixed it should sit more level. 👍🍻
Since this is basically a BIAB system. I was surprised you did not use a hop basket instead of dropping them directly into the wort. Hop baskets, like BIAB, keeps a lot of solids out of your chiller and fermenter. Also makes cleanup a little easier.
Yeah.. I guess that's true.. Wasn't to concerned about it I guess... And it didn't come with one so using it as it came. 👍🍻
Glad you got to share all of this. I have been following and been getting emails from Spike in regards to this system. Looking forward to the autotune info and second brew session.
Yes sir!! Going for a minimum grain bill 5 gallon batch next!! 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Outstanding. Looking forward to it
It's 2020 and homebrewers still think you "extract tannins" from heat. It's largely due to mash pH which should never be an issue unless you over mash, oops, over sparge. Great video, thanks!
You can extract tannins from heat, but i think it would have to be pretty high to notice it.
As I suggested before, split the output to the recirc and whirlpool at the same time. It will allow you to keep the recirc slow while not completely choking the pump down. The added benefit is more homogeneous temps in the lower area. I personally wouldn't do a sparge but if I did, I would be adding the sparge water immediately after pulling the basket up so that water was being added before the wort level dropped below the top of the grain. There is a very real chance of oversparging when sprinkling over exposed grain.
Thanks for the input Bobby. Much appreciated! 👍🍻
I like that idea (splitting the return). I’ll give that a try.
How do you split the output?
@@jphomebrew with a TEE
@@BobbyFromNJ Found your excellent article about spike tank split flow. Ordered up the parts from you. Thanks!
Great quality video. Enjoyed watching your brew day.
Thanks I enjoyed it. I want to do more brew days and recipe videos. 🍻👍
Enjoyed the video Brian! You should have left the dead lift of the grain basket to the sink in the video. It would have been interesting to see how you handled that. Had to be a challenge!
Haha!! Wasn't bad once it drained!! 👍🍻
Cool to see the Exchillerator. It's my next purchase!
It works well.. First time using it. 👍🍻
What I've found with PIDs is that, because they're self learning, you should only run them when everything is running as expected. By that I mean if you turn it on without the pump it will learn how long it takes to heat up without the pump, then you turn the pump on and it will see the temp dropping quicker so will overcompensate. Same with turning the element off, it will think it needs to add more power as it's not getting the response it expects... I used to do the same dance as you but I've started to turn the PID off (not the element) when I'm not recircing or when just heating up static water and it seems to help. I only run the PID when the pump is on.
Yes I'm familiar with how PIDs operate and how to tune them. This one is not self learning it has a auto tune program you run it through. I'll cover it in my next video.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Sorry, I wasn't saying you didn't at all. Just my experience is that (regardless of autotuning) they don't know when you're bypassing them so they panic and try to overcompensate. Turning the element off when it thinks it's on will confuse it regardless of autotune. Just my anecdotal 2c, not contradicting what you said. Peace and love...
@@MrRobhadfieldwasn't offended..didn't mean to seem that way... I turned it off because I knew at that point it wasn't auto tuned and was going to way overshoot my mash.. I wouldn't have done that had I not had that concern. Once auto tuned I wouldn't mess with the element switch. Cheers Rob! 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers I'm sharing, not because I know better, but because I've done worse 😂
@@MrRobhadfield haha I hear ya!! 👍🍻
The overshoot sounds like it could be integral wind-up. The longer and longer it sits thinking its On with the manual switch off it will accumulate error in the integral term. If it was an auto-tuning issue you probably would've seen overshoot on the initial strike water heating as well.
It's the sensor placement. From further testing the flow is not passing the sensor on a consistent basis and not registering the temp change.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Makes sense.
It's great to see you test all different systems and brew with trial and error (with respect).
I still love Brewtools best and it's in the same price range.
In my opinion, it is too expensive and it has nothing to do with the problem you have encountered.
The control unit is just to much DIY, and I have doubts that the hooks on the side of the malt tube will stay attached, or if it damaged the side of the grain basket, that's just my opinion anyway. Thanks for the video.
For sure.. I show it all the good the bad all my experiences.. Even if it's my fault.. Lol thanks for the comments! 👍🍻
I already have a 20 gallon kettle from Spike that I use with a custom Utah Biodiesel basket. I think I'm gonna try this basket out. No complaints with the basket from UTB, but this seems like it will be easier to lift, drain, and clean than the all mesh basket.
I imagine the grain sticks to the basket? The Spike basket seems to work pretty well.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Yes sir! Thanks for the vid and pricing update. Looking forward to these being up for sale.
👍🍻
Looks like it needs a floating slotted plate on top of the grain bed, to distribute the recirc, stop the channelling. Second thought is, heavy basket, hanging on one side to drain, does it feel unstable at all? Falling over at this point would suck. Those points aside, looks seriously legit. Between the unboxing (sorta) and this, solid review.
The basket on the side never felt unstable to me. A manifold of some kind wouldn't IMO.
Thanks for the comments! 👍🍻
during boil it seems to use pwm, not PID. That is a good thing :)
Yes!! You can switch it easily!! Very nice! 👍🍻
Thank you for your video very helpful i am beginner starting learning make beer
i have a question what model in this video includes everything how much
Thank you
Have a good day
There is a link in the description for the equipment. 👍🍻
Cool. I'm still mashing as I type this. The autotune should fix your problem. It worked fine for me after autotuning it. Mash temperatures on mine were only +/-1 deg F.
Awesome!! Good to hear it worked for you.. I'm the damn guinea pig!! Haha
Short Circuited Brewers You’re on the bleeding edge. I’m just following in your footsteps as if walking through a mine field.
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY haha.. I got you.. I let you know about it ASAP!! 👍🍻
Looks pretty solid! Thanks for all the hard work Brian! I really appreciate your videos and how you care about giving the consumer as much info to help them make a more educated decision!
@@kevineggers3862 thanks for the feedback!! 👍🍻
Ok so here’s the big question. Which system do you prefer? The Blichmann Breweasy or the Spike Solo? While taking everything into consideration. I have the Blichmann. I don’t “love” it but all systems will have their downfalls.
I prefer the brew easy. The only thing that the brew easy needs to be a better system in my opinion is the thermo well for the brew commander as a standard option so you can insert the temperature probe into the kettle when boiling. The brew easy has much better flow through its smash tun. 👍🍻
Looks like a nice mash day.......I mean *brew day. Cheers Brian.
Hahaha very funny Travis! 👍🍻
LMAO, that's a good one.
Well done ...
Thanks! 👍🍻
Haven't even used a system with a pump before, but is sparging necessary is you were recirculating for the whole mash? I know you took your profile from beersmith, just wanted your opinion. Thanks for the great video! Always appreciate your hard work!
Thanks! There is some sugar stll left in the grain and the idea is to rinse the remaining sugar out. 👍🍻
Great job...
Thank you! 👍🍻
Nicely done 👍
I was really hoping for a grunt ! You're gonna have that recipe available on Brewfather?
I created it on beersmith.. I will have to get a profile put together on it. And enter the recipe. Sorry no grunt!! Lol 👍🍻
Few bugs to work out & that reoccurring, stuck sparge. Great job. 🍻
Thanks! 👍🍻
Great video! How well does the recirculation work post-boil for focusing hop sediment into the center, allowing you to pull the boiled wort out without bringing in the gunk?
It work as well as any kind there system they have the pickup tube positioned I'm a good place. 👍🍻
Awesome video. Can you please tell us the height of the kettle with the basket draining on top? I want to see if it will fit in my space in the basement
I can.. When I get home from work I'll measure and give you the info.. 👍🍻 thanks for the feedback! 👍🍻
Nice video. Why do they recommend a thick mash and a sparge? Wouldn't you be better going for a thinner mash or full volume to stop it getting stuck ?
Probably. As a matter of fact heard from Spike and it is intended as a no sparge system.. Lol
Hi Brian. I brew in a all in one brewha conical fermenter. So in mine there is 7 litres of water in the cone or dead space before I put the colander in. How do I adjust the mash water volume for this?
Thank you.
I’m surprise that you tried to use the butterfly valve to control flow. They’re really not designed for that. Recommend opening it all the way. After that, use the ball valve after the pump to control the flow. That should give you more consistent control.
My inexperience with butterfly valves.. Don't use them on my kettles.. You are 100% right about the ball valve.. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers They really shouldn't be used on kettles smaller than 1BBL but I can't blame Spike for offering it that way since so many goofballs want.....
Our complete system will use ball valves on the outlet of the pump to control flow precisely. We did not supply a pump for this BETA test and therefore Brian used his own.
Spike Brewing Looking forward to buying one of these bad boys.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers will you be offering this system outside of the US?
I saw that the 15 gallon specs are for 2.5 to 5 gallon batches, but I wonder if it
could do a one gallon batch? I know the 10 gallon says up to 2.5 gallons, but I feel like one could easily do 5 gallons as well. Don’t know. I do 1 to 5 gallon batches, so I’d want it to cover that range.
The batch sizes are mainly to do with voltage and amperage of the element power. I doubt with the amount of space under the basket in this system. There probably will be more than a gallon under the basket. 👍🍻
What is the kind of material on your walls? I'm looking at laminate but wondering if the heat and moisture will be an issue. Also considering glue down vinyl or wood-look tile. Thanks for all the great videos.
Thanks! Answered on Reddit to lol. Vinyl tile. Don't waste your time with self adhesive though.. 👍🍻
Thanks for the detailed video! Two questions; Do you think you would be able to attach a lid mounted steam condenser with the kettle clamp to this unit? What do you use for a stand? Any one in particular you would recommend? Thanks again Brian!
I would probably port it into the side of the kettle.. The stand I used was a step stool from harbour freight. 👍🍻
Looks pretty good, small details to work out but overall very nice. Was that a 110 element?
Haha. No way.. 240
Short Circuited Brewers I thought it was, I saw a plug during the video and it looked like a 110. LoL. Thanks for the video.
@@chesterpuffington8368 oh that was for the spare water heater! 👍🍻
Short Circuited Brewers ahhh that make sense. For a minute I thought that system kicks ass for 110 power. 😂
1st: Brian, thanks for brewing on a school night. I'm kidding, but I know its tougher when you have to get up the next day and be a real person.
2nd: you've already heard too much about butterfly valves. They're nifty to clean though!
3rd: Do you think the performance and/or features of the baskets warrants usage on other setups, such as SSBrewtech 1v system, Blichmann systems etc ? My question really comes down to the PID and if you think its suitable or if there are better options out there presently?
I think the basket worked well. I personally am fine with a PID based system. Really reliable and accurate (when tuned!!!) And they generally last a long time. I think to stay "relevant" With the upcoming generation of brewers some "connectivity" Is being sought after. How much is anyones guess. Thanks for the questions! 👍🍻
So it’s considered a BIAB but you need to sparge 4 gallons? … I thought the convenience of the BIAB was a no sparge method?
I just did that for the heck of it.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers oh ok!! I’m so back and forth between this and the Breweasy Classic right now. I can’t decide!!
I was like what the heck!?!?
@@tactical_overland_zr2188 lol sorry. I will say the brew easy classic does perform better than the solo. Much better drainage. Lots of people have had issues with the solo basket flow. 👍🍻
Do you have any helpful hints on how to prevent a stuck mash? Spike recommends 0.035" as a grain mill gap size and I'm currently at 0.040". I've had two stuck mashes to date. Grain mill size is larger than recommended, I wait 10 minutes before recirculating and I'm recirculating at far less than 25% pump capacity...more like 3-5%
Have you tried rice hulls?
Hi. Please put Persian subtitles for this clip or your other clips. Thank you very much.
I'll see what I can do.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thank you very much. And I'm a member of your channel. I am not fluent in English but I communicate with Google Translate. Thank you again .. Good luck.👍👍🌷💗💙💚💖🌷
What are you using for a stand?
Homebrewing and Hip Hop, both better without auto tuning
Haha... I'm not sure about brewing.. But I'll take your word for the hip hop! 👍🍻
Now that's a mash paddle, any chance you have a link for it?
It isn't mine it is is actually one from. My home brew club.. I won last montha competition and got to keep it for a month.. I'll see if they can tell me where the got it.. 👍🍻
It would be worth the price if it came with everything you need including hydrometer. Add in electric kettle and chiller and you'll be close to 3k. 🤑🍞
How did you come up with 3k?
Yes it will. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Should have said 2500 +. I always add in tax.
@@brewsandbass5572 gotcha!! Makes sense! Uncle Sam's gotta mess with the brewing!! 👍🍻
Also: Why do you have a second valve attached to the riptide pump?
It is one that I use on my HERMS system. I liked to be able to quickly turn off the flow when changing hoses etc. And not change the flow rate. Not necessary. Just my own preference. 👍🍻
Did Spike mention anything about a lid with a steam condenser port?
They did not. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers I asked SB during the live brew day (it was either Larry or Brian's) and they said the steam condenser would be available at launch.
Hi thanks for the great videos. I am running the 20 gallon 240v system with a BrewCommander and my books never get above 210 degrees and the boil only appears to be boiling above where the element is located in the as well as in the shape of the element. I have been doing 6 gallons batches if that helps. Any ideas? I have emailed both clawhammer and blichmann and still can't figure this out.
It is a continuous boil? Or does it boil then stop and then boil again?
After the mash are you switching to manual mode? Or just increasing your temp to 212?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers I switch it to "on" with 100% power and the display reads "boil" and the current temp
Ok..
What wattage is your element?
Brian, sorry I asked a question for this one on another system. They recommend sparging with this system?
Actually no.. Talked to them today.. You can and maybe get a couple more gravity tenths but not designed for it.. My next batch is gonna be a no sparge 5.5 gallon batch to see if it will do it!! 👍🍻
Short Circuited Brewers awesome, just saw a price breakdown for the system
Does this system do 5 gallons as well? Doesn't look like you will have much water to mash.
FUNNY you should ask!! I will be releasing a video of that very thing tomorrow!! Stay tuned! 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers awesome! Cant wait to see!!
ruclips.net/video/BmEJzoeKxyc/видео.html
What is the reason for going to manual mode for boiling? You cant stay in Auto mode with the setpoint above boiling point?
To be able to control the boil.. On 240v it is a little too vigorous. If you leave it on temp mode it boils to vigorous.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers So because of the power it has a hard time maintaining like 208 °F in Auto Mode?
TheDhoyt1234 no not a problem maintaining it. If that’s your boiling point it will boil harder than necessary. You don’t need to boil that vigorously..it is designed like a commercial brewery type control. It is PID based.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers yeah I understand PID loops, I'm a DDC technician so I'm very familiar. That's why I was curious, a PID will maintain whatever you set it to if it's tuned properly so I thought it was weird to set it to manual.
@@TheDhoyt1234 just to put it into PWM mode... What we all do on our big brewing systems..
Have you seen any one use globe valves with brewing systems?
I don't even know what that is I assume a 4 way valve?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers they are valves that are designed for flow control. Gate valves are for on and off. That Blinchman pump is almost like one. Instead of a cone or needle valve its a disk in the horizontal position.
@@gregorywinters4697 Yeah i looked it up after your comment. Interesting valve for sure. I assume the reason that no one has used them on a brewing system is expense?
What do you estimate the max weight of the basket could be?
I could imagine 40 lbs of grain without issues maybe above 50 once the reduce the taper on the production model.
What is the platform you have the pot sitting on?
Harbor freight step stool.. Best brew stand ever!! Lol 👍🍻
How does this compare to the clawhammer system?
I don't have any experience with the Clawhammer 20 gallon system yet.
How was the cleaning?
Really simple. Basket was easy the grain wasn't stuck in the slots. Simple rinse and a light scrub. 👍🍻
Sounds like a dunkelweizen to me with all that wheat
Sho nuff! 👍🍻
that stuck sparge tho
Haha MASH dammit!! Lol 👍🍻
WHAT PUMPS ARE YOU USING
I used a blichmann riptide. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers That is what I thought I also use them..
Single vessel?
Uh yup.. 👍🍻
Longer video was good
Thanks.. And I cut it down from a rough edit of 35 minutes!! 🍻👍