Lol- yup, these videos were posted about a year ago - inspiration to start the sweater tunic... Took a break 1/2 way down the first sleeve. Thrilled to pick up a WIP that is near finished 😂
Thank you! This is exactly what I needed all 3 of the sweaters I have knitted had a yoke that was to deep. I had decided that I would need to make adjustments on my next sweater. And here you are with the instructions I need to help fit my sweater to my body. This information is truly appreciated. Thank you.
How do you change the row gauge without changing the stitch gauge? I'll def want to try one or more of these strategies in the future. The field sweater I just finished is a bit baggy all over, and it would've been great to have the armpits a little higher. It's not a disaster, and I can still wear the sweater as is, but I'd love to do better on the next one. Thank you for this excellent tutorial.
I can't thank you enough for this video! I am petite and love knitting colorwork sweaters. However, almost every pattern I've made was waaaay too deep in the yoke and I wasn't sure how to change it for my measurements, so, frequent frustration and disappointments. A few have worked out okay, but, mostly Not. Now I know what to do, I can forge ahead with confidence, thanks to you!!! Hugs. Barbara 😘🥰
This is so helpful, thank you. I always struggle with a yoke depth that is too long, in some cases the lower armscye (underarm) ends up halfway to or even at my waist. I usually get a good stitch gauge but row gauge is more elusive.
So helpful Melissa. I've realised that I often have knitted sweaters and the yoke has been too long, so the armpits are too low, but really couldn't work out how to solve the problem. I like the way you explain the strategies, thank you!
Very helpful. Love these I certainly can use all the advice you can show viewers to help learn visually how to make custom changes to our knitwear. Thank you very much.
I love the way you explain things with a very calm and clear voice. Your illustrations and explanations are easy to extremely easy to understand. I still am unclear about how to change the row gauge given as the first strategy. I immediately thought of using a different needle size but the stitch gauge will be altered too. Are you suggesting increasing or decreasing stitches in the yoke to compensate for that change? Please provide more clarification on how to do this.
This video is super helpful and your explanations are very clear, thankyou so much! Would the underarm to back measurement account for broad shoulders? I have broad shoulders and want to knit my first circular yoke sweater but I don’t want to go through all the work and then it doesn’t fit.
What modifications did you make to the pattern (Azami) to achieve such a delightful snug neckline?> Online the pattern looks like a rather open/"sloppy" neckline - but yours is stunning! ❤
As I recall, I deleted at least two of the ribbing rows at the very top of the sweater (so the ribbing is not as deep as the original) And I was working in a different gauge, so both may have made a difference in the neckline. I hope that helps :)
Hello I am making my first yoke sweater its called fern and feather. I made the colourwork yoke then increased the back using wrap and turn technique. I have separated the sleeves and worked few rounds of the body from underarm area. But its bulging where the yoke pattern is. What should i do to fix that or what did I do wrong for the sweater to bulge? Please help
Thanks for the how to's for the Goldilocks's mod's for a this kind of sweater. This is SO good. I am constantly learning from you. =o] P.S. I really like the use of the white board. I am such a visual person and this really helped me see as you were explaining. 👍🏻👍🏻
I find when I crochet or knit a top down sweater, that the front neck pushes on my neck while the back neck is hanging lower, when you knit a top from bottom up ,you would knit more rows at the back and you start shaping the front neck much before but can’t seem to do that in the top down patterns is there a way to knit more rows at the back while working in the round
So nice of you to share all this information. Great teachers teach what they love and teach it well. I'm considering a yoke sweater for my next sweater try. Would you say it's easier for a novice to add sleeves to a yoke sweater in comparison to a set-in sleeve? Have a great week!
Hi Lisa, The nice thing about most top-down circular (or raglan) yokes is that the sleeves are knit as part of the process of creating the main body. So, yes, easier! Set-in sleeves require some pretty specific shaping, but they can give a more tailored fit to the garment. It's really all about your goals for the sweater :) I hope all is well with you!
@@knittingthestash Thanks Melissa, I wasn't sure I was thinking through the construction correctly. The yoke sweaters look like they might be easier overall. I am doing great, hope you are all enjoying each day.
Hi Melissa - thank you for this video - it’s very helpful. I have a question: If I need to adjust the length of my (raglan, no color work) yoke to be longer, I assume the number of st I place on hold at the sleeve break will increase- will this cause the under arm fabric to bunch up quite a bit? Thank so much!
Hi Jill! Good question. You want to figure out how many stitches you ultimately want at the bust and upper arms before you begin your raglan. That way, you can space your increase rows out so that you can have a deeper yoke without ending up with too many stitches when you divide for the sleeves. Does that make sense? If you're already into the raglan increases in your yoke, you may need to either rip back to a place where you can space them out (to create a longer yoke without adding too many stitches) OR work plain rows after the last increase if your yoke looks like it's going to be just a little bit too short. I wouldn't add more than an inch or so of plain knitting, though, because that could lead to some wonky yoke sizing as well. I hope that helps!
Hello! Thanks for the informative video- I have a couple questions for you. 1. Why do you take the yoke depth measurement from the back? and 2. Are there any changes you think would be made to this approach for people with large full bust measurements?
Great questions. You can also measure in the front, of course. I'm following Maggie Righetti's suggestions, but I've also seen videos that take a measurement from back armpit over the shoulder to front armpit (and then divide by 2): ruclips.net/video/U2gI_J01p9U/видео.html We've been working on the large bust question in the Saturday Zoom sessions and it's something I'm really curious to figure out--I have yet to find a good solution. But, when and if I do, I'll be posting a tutorial!
When you are talking about adding ease to your yoke measurement, for example do you mean if the sweater calls for 3 inches of positive ease you add 3 inches to that yoke measurement from the back of the neck down to the arm hole? Thank you very much for this video!
Hello! Great question. It will depend on your goals for the sweater, so there is not one right answer here. Ease won't be the same throughout the sweater--so, when a designer says to add 3" of ease, they are usually talking about the chest/bust measurement. You wouldn't necessarily add 3" to your neck hole opening, but you might add it to your chest. So, for armholes, I would probably add less than what the designer calls for overall. One way to check the amount you like is to measure a couple of your favorite sweaters and see how big they are compared to your body measurement at those places. I hope that helps!!
Hi, Melissa. New viewer here. Thank you for the informative tutorial. My question: If a patterned yoke is too deep for a good fit, but extraction would be too disruptive to the pattern, could you just divide for the sleeves sooner and keep the pattern intact on the sleeves and body? Are there problems with this approach? Thank you!
Great question, Jo! It most likely depends on the pattern--where the shaping is, etc. If you are at a large enough circumference where you would *like* to divide for the sleeves, they it should be OK to do so and then continue in pattern on the body and sleeves. But, consider these issues as well: is the pattern still repeatable given the smaller number of stitches on the body and each sleeve? Will you need to make adjustments to the repeat given the number of stitches that you'll now be working with in either place? I'm guessing there might be other issues, too, but this is my first brainstormed answer to your question :)
Thanks for a great tutorial, Melissa. Does the back measurement to the armpit still work if short rows have been added to a pattern (in the back of the yoke) and its schematic?
Sandy--great question. Just remember to take this measurement from your body and not from a favorite sweater and you would be good to go. That way, no short rows are involved in the measuring. When you adapt the pattern, you will use the measurement for the front yoke (without the short rows)
I don't understand how you could change your row gauge without affecting the stitches per inch gauge. I'm assuming the way to change your row gauge would be to change the size needle you are using, which would also affect the stitch gauge, or am I missing something?
Hi Cindy! Yes, you would have to do some other math and modifications. Likely, the sizing change you mentioned. It's just one method that *might* work for some projects and specific cases. For me, sometimes my gauge is already "off" and I find that I need to adjust my yoke for that reason. Great question!
This is really helpful! I used the method with decreasing the number of rows to make my "yoke" section smaller on my Kuutar tank :)
Thanks, Nargis! So col to hear we think alike!! Love the garments you've been making :)
Your tutorials are always so clear, exactly what I needed. Thanks
That measurement idea is really helpful. I need to do more planning on my sweaters before I dive into the knitting.
Love this - thank you!! Just finishing a bulky sweater/ tunic after watching your tutorials!! Yoke and German short rows -- and it Fits!!
Lol- yup, these videos were posted about a year ago - inspiration to start the sweater tunic... Took a break 1/2 way down the first sleeve. Thrilled to pick up a WIP that is near finished 😂
Thank you! This is exactly what I needed all 3 of the sweaters I have knitted had a yoke that was to deep. I had decided that I would need to make adjustments on my next sweater. And here you are with the instructions I need to help fit my sweater to my body. This information is truly appreciated. Thank you.
So useful! My sweaters always end up being too deep at the yoke, now I know to try and modify the pattern next time.
How do you change the row gauge without changing the stitch gauge? I'll def want to try one or more of these strategies in the future. The field sweater I just finished is a bit baggy all over, and it would've been great to have the armpits a little higher. It's not a disaster, and I can still wear the sweater as is, but I'd love to do better on the next one.
Thank you for this excellent tutorial.
I can't thank you enough for this video! I am petite and love knitting colorwork sweaters. However, almost every pattern I've made was waaaay too deep in the yoke and I wasn't sure how to change it for my measurements, so, frequent frustration and disappointments. A few have worked out okay, but, mostly Not. Now I know what to do, I can forge ahead with confidence, thanks to you!!! Hugs. Barbara 😘🥰
Your video has taken my sweater knitting to a whole new level - I need deeper armholes and now I know thanks
This is so helpful, thank you. I always struggle with a yoke depth that is too long, in some cases the lower armscye (underarm) ends up halfway to or even at my waist. I usually get a good stitch gauge but row gauge is more elusive.
So helpful Melissa. I've realised that I often have knitted sweaters and the yoke has been too long, so the armpits are too low, but really couldn't work out how to solve the problem. I like the way you explain the strategies, thank you!
Very helpful. Love these I certainly can use all the advice you can show viewers to help learn visually how to make custom changes to our knitwear. Thank you very much.
Thank you, Trudy!
I love the way you explain things with a very calm and clear voice. Your illustrations and explanations are easy to extremely easy to understand. I still am unclear about how to change the row gauge given as the first strategy. I immediately thought of using a different needle size but the stitch gauge will be altered too. Are you suggesting increasing or decreasing stitches in the yoke to compensate for that change? Please provide more clarification on how to do this.
So helpful! Thank you Melissa!
Thanks for tak8ng the time to do this! How do you increase row gauge?
I was wondering this too. Do you change needle size - but then that would change stitch gauge too?
Thank you so much. Very helpful!
Thank you very much.
Excellent Tutorial. Thank you.
Thank you so much. Your knowledge was a huge help to me. ❤️
Very helpful! I just subscribed. Thank you!
This video is super helpful and your explanations are very clear, thankyou so much! Would the underarm to back measurement account for broad shoulders?
I have broad shoulders and want to knit my first circular yoke sweater but I don’t want to go through all the work and then it doesn’t fit.
What modifications did you make to the pattern (Azami) to achieve such a delightful snug neckline?> Online the pattern looks like a rather open/"sloppy" neckline - but yours is stunning! ❤
As I recall, I deleted at least two of the ribbing rows at the very top of the sweater (so the ribbing is not as deep as the original) And I was working in a different gauge, so both may have made a difference in the neckline. I hope that helps :)
@@knittingthestash Thank you! wow such a speedy response =:-))
💡💡💡 This is fantastic. This will help so much 🙂
Great video and information, Thank you very much♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️.
Thank you, this was very informative.
Thank you.Great explanation.
Thanks, Deb!
Great information. Thank you
Brilliant! Thank you 😊💕🌿
Thank you! ❤
Hello
I am making my first yoke sweater its called fern and feather.
I made the colourwork yoke then increased the back using wrap and turn technique. I have separated the sleeves and worked few rounds of the body from underarm area. But its bulging where the yoke pattern is. What should i do to fix that or what did I do wrong for the sweater to bulge?
Please help
Thank you truly!!!
Thanks for the how to's for the Goldilocks's mod's for a this kind of sweater. This is SO good. I am constantly learning from you. =o] P.S. I really like the use of the white board. I am such a visual person and this really helped me see as you were explaining. 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks, Mary!
I find when I crochet or knit a top down sweater, that the front neck pushes on my neck while the back neck is hanging lower, when you knit a top from bottom up ,you would knit more rows at the back and you start shaping the front neck much before but can’t seem to do that in the top down patterns is there a way to knit more rows at the back while working in the round
The seater yoke looks gorgeous which pattern is it? Thx
Is there anyway I could buy this knitting pattern? What is the name of the pattern?
Thanks!
So nice of you to share all this information. Great teachers teach what they love and teach it well. I'm considering a yoke sweater for my next sweater try. Would you say it's easier for a novice to add sleeves to a yoke sweater in comparison to a set-in sleeve? Have a great week!
Hi Lisa, The nice thing about most top-down circular (or raglan) yokes is that the sleeves are knit as part of the process of creating the main body. So, yes, easier! Set-in sleeves require some pretty specific shaping, but they can give a more tailored fit to the garment. It's really all about your goals for the sweater :) I hope all is well with you!
@@knittingthestash Thanks Melissa, I wasn't sure I was thinking through the construction correctly. The yoke sweaters look like they might be easier overall. I am doing great, hope you are all enjoying each day.
Your Azami is gorgeous and that yarn is so lovely and creamy
O, This is fantastic.
Hi Melissa - thank you for this video - it’s very helpful. I have a question: If I need to adjust the length of my (raglan, no color work) yoke to be longer, I assume the number of st I place on hold at the sleeve break will increase- will this cause the under arm fabric to bunch up quite a bit? Thank so much!
Hi Jill! Good question. You want to figure out how many stitches you ultimately want at the bust and upper arms before you begin your raglan. That way, you can space your increase rows out so that you can have a deeper yoke without ending up with too many stitches when you divide for the sleeves. Does that make sense? If you're already into the raglan increases in your yoke, you may need to either rip back to a place where you can space them out (to create a longer yoke without adding too many stitches) OR work plain rows after the last increase if your yoke looks like it's going to be just a little bit too short. I wouldn't add more than an inch or so of plain knitting, though, because that could lead to some wonky yoke sizing as well. I hope that helps!
Hello! Thanks for the informative video- I have a couple questions for you.
1. Why do you take the yoke depth measurement from the back? and 2. Are there any changes you think would be made to this approach for people with large full bust measurements?
Great questions. You can also measure in the front, of course. I'm following Maggie Righetti's suggestions, but I've also seen videos that take a measurement from back armpit over the shoulder to front armpit (and then divide by 2): ruclips.net/video/U2gI_J01p9U/видео.html
We've been working on the large bust question in the Saturday Zoom sessions and it's something I'm really curious to figure out--I have yet to find a good solution. But, when and if I do, I'll be posting a tutorial!
@@knittingthestash Thanks, I'll think on this some more. I hope I'll be able to make a Saturday zoom sessions soon, they sound fun.
When you are talking about adding ease to your yoke measurement, for example do you mean if the sweater calls for 3 inches of positive ease you add 3 inches to that yoke measurement from the back of the neck down to the arm hole? Thank you very much for this video!
Hello! Great question. It will depend on your goals for the sweater, so there is not one right answer here. Ease won't be the same throughout the sweater--so, when a designer says to add 3" of ease, they are usually talking about the chest/bust measurement. You wouldn't necessarily add 3" to your neck hole opening, but you might add it to your chest. So, for armholes, I would probably add less than what the designer calls for overall. One way to check the amount you like is to measure a couple of your favorite sweaters and see how big they are compared to your body measurement at those places. I hope that helps!!
@@knittingthestash yes! Clear as mud, thank you!
Hi, Melissa. New viewer here. Thank you for the informative tutorial. My question: If a patterned yoke is too deep for a good fit, but extraction would be too disruptive to the pattern, could you just divide for the sleeves sooner and keep the pattern intact on the sleeves and body? Are there problems with this approach? Thank you!
Great question, Jo! It most likely depends on the pattern--where the shaping is, etc. If you are at a large enough circumference where you would *like* to divide for the sleeves, they it should be OK to do so and then continue in pattern on the body and sleeves. But, consider these issues as well: is the pattern still repeatable given the smaller number of stitches on the body and each sleeve? Will you need to make adjustments to the repeat given the number of stitches that you'll now be working with in either place? I'm guessing there might be other issues, too, but this is my first brainstormed answer to your question :)
Thanks for a great tutorial, Melissa. Does the back measurement to the armpit still work if short rows have been added to a pattern (in the back of the yoke) and its schematic?
Sandy--great question. Just remember to take this measurement from your body and not from a favorite sweater and you would be good to go. That way, no short rows are involved in the measuring. When you adapt the pattern, you will use the measurement for the front yoke (without the short rows)
👍🏼
I don't understand how you could change your row gauge without affecting the stitches per inch gauge. I'm assuming the way to change your row gauge would be to change the size needle you are using, which would also affect the stitch gauge, or am I missing something?
I am wondering the same thing about modifying row gauge without changing stitch gauge.
Hi Cindy! Yes, you would have to do some other math and modifications. Likely, the sizing change you mentioned. It's just one method that *might* work for some projects and specific cases. For me, sometimes my gauge is already "off" and I find that I need to adjust my yoke for that reason. Great question!
@@susangall5850 Hi Susan--see my reply to Cyndy. Hope it's helpful!
I am looking into a mannequin Im thinking I need to get an adjustable one. Thoughts please?
This one was a gift from Spencer (my husband)--I believe he picked it up on Amazon.
How do I find out the name of the pattern for the sweater in this video???
It's the Azami sweater: www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/azami-sweater
Thanks!!!