CRUCIAL Cura settings for PETG printing
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- I get a ton of questions on petg, and cura settings specifically, so i decided to make a quick setup video that will show you the important settings for petg printing. with this quick video you can get any printer setup in cura to print quality petg prints. remember:
nozzle:230+
bed:60-70+
fan: less than or equal to 20%
profiles for ender 3 and more here:
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![The secret to 3D printing PETG [Adventurer 4]](/img/1.gif)
This video has made a huge difference! ive nearly pulled my hair out trying to figure out how to get this PETG to print properly. now i can finally finish the project ive been dying to get done. Thank you so much for the tips! keep up the great work
You do not discuss retraction.. I am just learning and others make a big deal of this. Any reason why? Richard
Hay man thank you for putting this up way back ..i just used your settings to make a little action camera threaded mount ,,supper simple but it came out so perfect with your recommended settings and advice. and on an old Ultimaker first gen printer too. cheers to you!
Glad I could help
A huge thank you. Yesterday I tried to print a petg model and after 3 hours I stopped the print because it had gone all to hell. The bed side of it did OK but was a bit ragged and then the petg began to build up in globs on the nozzle. Once it started to print the walls it got really bad and finally wasn't even worth continuing. I watched several RUclips videos before I came to yours. I downloaded your Ender 3/Cura profile and loaded it up (the only change I made was to reduce the fan speed to 10 percent) and now I am watching the same model printing and it is damn near perfect. Again-a huge thanks.
This is why im here! You are welcome!
@@Technivorous From your starting point I went on to check the filament feed and correct it. In doing that I found the feed tension was off and the nozzle was about 2 turns loose. Then moved on to test the feed setting in Cura and set it at about 88 percent-now, 4.5 hours into the print it looks to be working. My Ender 3 is no longer the paper weight it had devolved into.
downloaded the profile from this video. Tried printing the ghost benchy model. Laid the raft down and the bottom of the boat, then spaghetti for miles.
Unfortunately odds are good if the print started off well and then went wonky something happened to your printer, is it just extruding plastic, or is it under extruding the model?
Your green interface makes it hard to read the settings in the video.
Chep did an experiment video on the heat versus magnetics issue and found he could not affect the magnetic bed at all even at the print beds maximum heat
yeah chuck and i have talked about this. the magnet actually gets stringer at a certain point. if i remember right it took between 10 to 20 lbs of sideways force to remove the mat at temp. so the magnetism didnt give he just overburdoned it with weight.
Thanks for the info, I have read that you need to set the gap between the nozzle and the bed a little wider with PETG, do you use a z offset to accomplish this?
I would like to know as well
I am not sure why they say this. I just use no offset with the mirror glass bed at 70C and the extruder of the initial layer set at 245C with the fan off. It sticks well, but I have to use Brim on very small surface area prints. I revert to normal tempperature and fan speed for pla after that. Actually I run cooler at 220C for petg with 70% fan speed. I am not there yet but the first layer is always good. I made sure the bed is level and that four squares printed at 0.2 mm on a 0.4mm nozzle are actually measuring 0.2mm with a vernier. I just peel off the square and measure it. Its my later laters that are good but PLA quality yet.
Very huge help! I have a Sunlu S8 Plus (310x310x400) with Magnetic plate and Silent Motherboard - which PLA, PETG, and ABS profiles for Cura on your GitHub would you have me download? Thank you very kindly.
5:27 I was under the impression that Initial and Final Printing Temps only mattered if you're using multiple extruders, based on the Settings Guide plugin.
Generally speaking yes, but initial print temp is the minimum temp it will begin printing so if your print temp is 220 and your min is 215 it will start at 215 and then continue to heat to the set temp. It is very useful for keeping dual extruders from using, but it does apply to every time you heat and stop
Will your profiles work on an ANET A6 printer ? I have a 3mm glass bed mirror that works really well to stick PLA on it. PETG i have had to use 70C and a 245C initial layer with fan off to get it to stick nicely. The rest of the way up I just go back to normal temps. But my PETG does not seem to like the normal recommendations and runs better at 220C with fan at 40~70% speed. I am not sure what is best yet.
Great video. Thanks
With very low print-cooling fan settings, I find that the intended setting will run the fan, but won't generate enough torque to start it. I have to go into the gcode and "start" the fan. I search for the M106 command that sets the fan to its final speed, then make a copy of the same command a couple of "moves" (G commands) later. Then, I change the value in the original M106 to 128 or more, to get the fan spinning. When the gcode runs, the first M106 will get the fan spinning, and then the second will be encountered a fraction of a second later, and will set it to the intended value.
Really, the printer firmware should do this whenever you set a low fan speed. My Ender 5 doesn't.
Nice work around though!
Will these settings work for ender 6?
by cooling fan, do they mean the part fan or the fan that cools the heatsink on the hotend?
That's a good question. This is the part cooling fan, the heat sink fan runs separate to regulate the hot end temperature generally you want that to do its thing. This is the fan that blows on the part I'm talking about
What about all the other settings for petg in cura? I speak about epic and legendary settings, not just the commons ;)
There are of course a lot of other settings to tweak to dial in and get a perfect profile, but these settings are crucial, and a great starting point. Without them it dosnt matter what else you do. :)
@@Technivorous than iam ready for next step :)
Thanks for your videos. I use CURA 4.6.2. Can you provide more info on getting squish correct for the first layer with PETG? I've heard that PETG needs to be printed higher than PLA and you should level with an index card vs. paper (I don't use ABL) and not use any Z offset. Are these statements correct? I was surprised that you didn't mention anything about this in this video. Thanks.
Also, can you comment on the use of TH3D EZFlex PEI beds & their EZMat Polycarbonate bed when printing PETG. I use their textured EZFlex on my Ender 5 Pro with the EZMat applied to the reverse side, so I have 2 different options for bottom surface texture. This has worked really well for PLA and I'm hoping it will work Ok with PETG. They do advise using hairspray with the EZMat. Not sure if you have any experience but would be interested in your thoughts on the use of these beds. Thanks.
The pei I use is from buildtak but it has never needed adhesive and petg sticks just fine for me. I assume your pei sheet is pretty close in spec of they are both pei you shouldnt have a problem. As for the squish, I have heard the same about the index card, but I have never tried it, as i tend to print just fine where I'm at. Plus, it sounds kind of counter intuitive to me, you get better adhesion by being closer in my opinion. I'd love to try that th3d reflex though!
You can download load the z-offest plugin for Cura from the marketplace and add a z offset under the adhesion tab I believe in the petg settings.
@@Technivorous I use no offset either. PETG sticks very well to my glass bed at 70C with an initial temp of 245C with the fan off. The rest I just revert to whatever works best for that PETG brand and colour.
Good to know. Can we have the same with ABS?
yeah give me a couple days!
can u please update the profiles for cura? they r bugged for the new version =(
Absolutely it's about time
thx man i appreciate it =)
Great video, i have yet to print PETG. Which brings me to ask have you ever tried Sain Smart PETG?
Or have any suggestions?:) They suggest print speed of 90 to 150 but seems extreme, other settings i did not understand, lol. Maybe i will just use the profile you had linked in another video and just change temp and test out. I am using a CR-10 V2 atm, my flashforge i doubt could do it.
Personal experience with SainSmart filaments- Not worth the price, and they're non-branded so I never received the same thing twice. Solutech3D is a pretty safe choice, although they did have some QC hiccups spring 2020, the filament seems reliable one again so I just ordered a case.
@@gregoryconnors7370 Yes i was trying to find the best brand on Amazon just going by reviews. Thank you for the advice, next time i shall give Solutech a try
@@Spirited282 I've gone through a few spools in the case and so far the 3D Solutech quality is once again excellent. And it's Made in USA 🇺🇸 which is huge for me.
Very late reply, I know, but I absolutely LOVE Amazon Basics PLA and PETG. Great price, great colors, great quality, and Prime delivery guaranteed.
I'm guessing your favorite color is green
Come join our discord today! discord.gg/bqVvaCb
What about combing
I run combing set to not non in skin
I cannot see the settings at all with that green on the screen my man. Not good for videos FYI
dude your sound could be better