as a note, I've found with all the heat shrink removing the wires might only be possible after the base drops from the stator. I removed it as you did after the stator dropped, before would have likely damaged the wires so I waited
Is there any keying on the stator to its base? Or is it just relying on the press fit to resist the countertorque on the stator while the motor is running?
Usually these are just press-fit. Even on the bigger motor, it's just pressed in place. There's sometimes some epoxy or something to hold it there, but it's TIGHT. On the motors for Copperhead, it was a delicate operation to remove the bases, and it took a 20 ton press and a bit of praying. They're more of an interference or friction fit, where it would take significant force to make them slide apart.
What material is the stator removal jig? I'm on far too many version and across 3 of 4 motors have broken more than a few removal tools, the motor intact slips out the bottom and brings the the then 1.5mm edge that's grabbing the stator and destroys the jig. How thick is that lower edge the slides under the stator? I've now modeled a round support and added spring steel with just large enough for the wires to go down and a vertical cut out... spring steel alone wasnt enough on the parallels to prevent the bottom of the jig from breaking.
It's just PLA. If it's slipping out of the bottom, it's not tight enough around the diameter of the motor. Mine is maybe only a mm or two on the bottom lip, but that's not really holding it, it's the friction along the outer surface. Make that as tight as fit as possible, and maybe add a piece of double-stick tape as well for extra friction. You're not really putting all the force on the lower lip, you're distributing it against the fixture.
@@RobertCowanDIYThanks, I'll try to reduce the diameter even more than the twice I already have, I've been printing it with petg. I'm starting to see stator indents on the surface. I finally took a close look and will try to chip away some of the expoxy, looks like it got a double dose! Double sided tape sounds good as well.
@@PaulStAmand-sd1js Got it. It might be glued in place, which will be tricky. You might need to apply some heat with a small torch to loosen it. Good luck!
Reduced size a little more to grab the stator more, reprinted in pla rather than petg and I haven't broken the pla set with a couple motors so far, another 4 to be done in the next month, and for anyone reading this don't skip the locating pins, it adds a significant amount of strength to the process
@@RobertCowanDIY I’m going to assume Prusa makes it. I wonder how it compares to CPE which is what I’ve been getting from Ultimaker. I’ll have to do some research.
@@RobertCowanDIY Dang... I wanna fight you real bad lol. The hub motor series on here was definitely an inspiration for the one I run in my bot, Eruption
@@RobertCowanDIY it's OK. I've been meaning to say that for weeks and kept forgetting, so I said it here. Yeah I'm sure multiparts videos are hard to plan. That one was so close to being done though. Did you finish it? If yes, how well did it work?
I also get new ideas for my 3D printer. Most of the time I just take some photos and some detailed notes. Question: Do you use Solidworks or Fusion 360? Do you ever post anything I can use? I use Fusion 360. Thanks for today’s update
as a note, I've found with all the heat shrink removing the wires might only be possible after the base drops from the stator. I removed it as you did after the stator dropped, before would have likely damaged the wires so I waited
Is there any keying on the stator to its base? Or is it just relying on the press fit to resist the countertorque on the stator while the motor is running?
Usually these are just press-fit. Even on the bigger motor, it's just pressed in place. There's sometimes some epoxy or something to hold it there, but it's TIGHT. On the motors for Copperhead, it was a delicate operation to remove the bases, and it took a 20 ton press and a bit of praying. They're more of an interference or friction fit, where it would take significant force to make them slide apart.
What material is the stator removal jig? I'm on far too many version and across 3 of 4 motors have broken more than a few removal tools, the motor intact slips out the bottom and brings the the then 1.5mm edge that's grabbing the stator and destroys the jig. How thick is that lower edge the slides under the stator? I've now modeled a round support and added spring steel with just large enough for the wires to go down and a vertical cut out... spring steel alone wasnt enough on the parallels to prevent the bottom of the jig from breaking.
It's just PLA. If it's slipping out of the bottom, it's not tight enough around the diameter of the motor. Mine is maybe only a mm or two on the bottom lip, but that's not really holding it, it's the friction along the outer surface. Make that as tight as fit as possible, and maybe add a piece of double-stick tape as well for extra friction. You're not really putting all the force on the lower lip, you're distributing it against the fixture.
@@RobertCowanDIYThanks, I'll try to reduce the diameter even more than the twice I already have, I've been printing it with petg. I'm starting to see stator indents on the surface. I finally took a close look and will try to chip away some of the expoxy, looks like it got a double dose! Double sided tape sounds good as well.
@@PaulStAmand-sd1js Got it. It might be glued in place, which will be tricky. You might need to apply some heat with a small torch to loosen it. Good luck!
Reduced size a little more to grab the stator more, reprinted in pla rather than petg and I haven't broken the pla set with a couple motors so far, another 4 to be done in the next month, and for anyone reading this don't skip the locating pins, it adds a significant amount of strength to the process
What filament did you use?
Prusament, almost exclusively. It's really consistent and prints well. It's just a bit pricier and takes longer to get.
@@RobertCowanDIY I’m going to assume Prusa makes it. I wonder how it compares to CPE which is what I’ve been getting from Ultimaker. I’ll have to do some research.
Thanks for the tip! Awesome as always
Does the sudden revival of psychotic break videos mean you’re coming to Norwalk? :D
Haha. It means I'm working on Psychotic Break. ;-)
@@RobertCowanDIY Dang... I wanna fight you real bad lol. The hub motor series on here was definitely an inspiration for the one I run in my bot, Eruption
@@brianboxell I didn't say I WASN'T coming I haven't really decided on anything yet. Also, I'm glad I was able to help!
3D printing is so useful.
Right? This is kinda tricky otherwise.
@@RobertCowanDIY sad part is there are still a lot of people who think 3D printing is still just printing knick knacks.
Are you the owner of copperhead or is it zach goff and you just a team mate? also whos idea was it?
It's Zach's bot, but all the parts are in my shop. I'm also a teammate, but it's Zach's design.
@@RobertCowanDIY ok, now do you dever plan on build your very own 250lb battlebot?
You never did part 2 of the load cell / filament weight indicator. I am still crushed about that.
Ha, sorry. I need to stop doing multi-part videos, I never end up finishing the whole thing.
@@RobertCowanDIY it's OK. I've been meaning to say that for weeks and kept forgetting, so I said it here. Yeah I'm sure multiparts videos are hard to plan. That one was so close to being done though. Did you finish it? If yes, how well did it work?
I also get new ideas for my 3D printer. Most of the time I just take some photos and some detailed notes.
Question: Do you use Solidworks or Fusion 360? Do you ever post anything I can use? I use Fusion 360.
Thanks for today’s update
I use Solidworks and very rarely fusion, but really just for the CAM.