Learn to resaw so you can make thin stock whenever you need it.

Поделиться
HTML-код
  • Опубликовано: 10 ноя 2022
  • I use a lot of thin stock - 3/8, 1/4, and occasionally even 1/8. If you want to make projects requiring thin stock, you can probably purchase what you need from a hardwood lumber dealer - at a price. If you are using thin stock frequently, you will want to learn the technique of resawing.
    This video is a tutorial for those who want to learn the basics of resawing so they can try it themselves.
    If you want to do your own resawing, you will need a tablesaw or a bandsaw and a thickness planer.
    Timestamps
    0:00
    0:10 Introduction
    1:17 Cutting to length
    1:46 Squaring up the sides
    2:24 Removing the blade guard
    2:36 Zero clearance insert
    3:02 Setting the rip fence
    3:22 Adding a featherboard
    3:33 Making the first cuts
    4:03 End view of first pass
    4:24 Wait for the blade to stop
    4:43 Finishing up on the thickness planer
    4:50 Completed 3/8 boards

Комментарии • 27

  • @in2rock275
    @in2rock275 Год назад +9

    When sawing down the middle on a table saw, before flipping the board end over end, I actually make 2 passes on each cut alternating the faces against the fence. This way I have 2 pieces that are exactly the same thickness with generally no need for the planer, just sanding or scraping.

    • @bobshomewoodshop7996
      @bobshomewoodshop7996  Год назад +1

      I like that approach, and will try it the next time I resaw.

    • @evanlane1690
      @evanlane1690 Год назад

      Great idea! Plus it gives a bit of space for the blade as it cuts deeper if you have an underpowered table saw going into tough species.

  • @iamhandy-man
    @iamhandy-man Год назад +1

    Thanks, Bob, that was very helpful!

  • @billballeza377
    @billballeza377 Год назад +3

    Important to mention flipping end for end so that the same face of the board is against the fence with each pass.

    • @in2rock275
      @in2rock275 Год назад +3

      I agree with that wholeheartedly. However, when sawing down the middle on a table saw, I actually make 2 passes on each cut alternating the faces against the fence. This way I have 2 pieces that are exactly the same thickness with no need for the planer, just sanding.

    • @bobshomewoodshop7996
      @bobshomewoodshop7996  Год назад +1

      I will have to try that some time, but for that to work the work piece needs to be perfectly centered on the blade. I find that sometimes one side is a tiny bit wider than the other.

  • @tmarticle2065
    @tmarticle2065 Год назад +1

    Good luck my grandfather 👍👍👍🙏🙏

  • @FGFsMo
    @FGFsMo 9 месяцев назад +1

    On the very final pass with only a bit of material left in the middle of the boards, my boards bonded up the blade as soon as I started the cut. What am I doing wrong?

    • @bobshomewoodshop7996
      @bobshomewoodshop7996  9 месяцев назад

      I have never run across that problem so I'm not sure. Occasionally you run into a board that wants to pinch itself closed after being cut. I have run into this on rip cuts, but never resawing. But since resawing is a form of rip cut, it makes sense that this would happen from time to time. I trust you were using some sort of splitter, but if it was small it might not prevent the wood from closing back on itself as you got deeper into the cut. The most important thing is NOT to force the wood through the blade, as this could lead to a very dangerous kickback situation. If the wood doesn't want to cooperate, find another way to complete the task.

  • @jojocfdr
    @jojocfdr Год назад

    👍

  • @bottledo1
    @bottledo1 Год назад +1

    Funny that you protect your ears and not your lungs ! Nice video THNKS !

  • @PureBloodWNC
    @PureBloodWNC Год назад

    Hi Bob, what blade type would you recommend for resawing fairly thin stock. Splitting a 3/4” piece into two for example.

    • @bobshomewoodshop7996
      @bobshomewoodshop7996  Год назад

      I am using a full size rip blade on 4/4 quarter stock. I resaw right in half, then take the two pieces to my thickness planer to clean them up. Thin kerf rip blades are also available, but my dealer recommended the regular blade. You will lose 1/8 of an inch thickness with this blade, a little less with a thinner blade.

  • @foodparadise5792
    @foodparadise5792 Год назад

    Please wear a mask, those saw dust add up in long term.

    • @bobshomewoodshop7996
      @bobshomewoodshop7996  Год назад +1

      I wear a mask (and hearing protection), but did not while I was recording this video so my voice wouldn't be muffled. In the future, I will make sure to use proper precautions so that anyone watching the video knows their importance. Thanks for the comment.

  • @zapa1pnt
    @zapa1pnt Год назад

    If you are making money, with your shop, you might want to look at an Accucut.
    It is not priced for the hobbyist, that is why I say "if you are making money" but
    it is a wonderful rig and can save you money, on costly wood.
    No affiliations here, just something I have seen. 😁✌🖖

  • @ericklassen742
    @ericklassen742 10 месяцев назад

    I like your information BUT you need to turn up the mic. If I spike the volume on my computer, the commercial breaks or the next video presenter comes in like gangbusters.

    • @bobshomewoodshop7996
      @bobshomewoodshop7996  10 месяцев назад

      Thanks for the advice. I did this video several months ago, and I think I have learned a lot since then. Plus, I now have a Lavalier mic that I can use when the camera is any distance from me. As far as this video goes, I'll see if there is any way I can adjust the volume post-production.

  • @Foxated
    @Foxated Год назад

    Waiting for a kick back! The splitter is too low to act as a riving knife. And please, switch off the saw before retrieving cuts.

    • @bobshomewoodshop7996
      @bobshomewoodshop7996  Год назад

      Thank you for the tips. I will look into a riving knife for my table saw, and will be more careful to wait for the saw to stop before retrieving cuts.

    • @m.d.d.3051
      @m.d.d.3051 Год назад

      I have used the method Bob demonstrates here for several years. I have never had a kickback occur. Not saying it isn't possible, only saying that in the literally hundreds of cuts I've made, it hasn't happened. As Bob showed, when cutting wider stock (approx 6" from the looks in this video), you don't try to resaw in just one or two passes. You sneak up on it, as it were. I have had boards cup on me as the internal fiber tensions of the board release upon being cut. What happens in that case, is on the next pass, the blade shaves the cupped portion. The only time you are going to run into a pinch and potential kickback problem using this method on the tablesaw is if you get too greedy with your cuts. YMMV.

    • @bobshomewoodshop7996
      @bobshomewoodshop7996  Год назад +1

      @@m.d.d.3051 That was an excellent explanation. You are correct on the stock width; I can resaw only slightly less than 6 inches wide. On the wider pieces, I do the bulk of the cutting on the table saw, then take them over to the band saw to finish them up. My band saw will only handle somewhere between 5 1/2 and 6 inches.

    • @m.d.d.3051
      @m.d.d.3051 Год назад

      @@bobshomewoodshop7996 Very kind of you to say so. I'm a finish carpenter by trade, and sometimes on a jobsite there is no other way to do it than what you demonstrated in your video. If I might make a suggestion, make yourself an auxiliary fence that either clamps or "saddles" your tablesaw fence that gives you more height to rest your 6" stock against.

    • @bobshomewoodshop7996
      @bobshomewoodshop7996  Год назад

      @@m.d.d.3051 That is a great suggestion. When I first started woodworking I didn't do much resawing, but with the type of projects I do now I use a lot of thinner stock. I will put that on my list of things to do; in fact, I will make a video of the process!