How to Screen Print on Polyester with a Blocker Base
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2024
- While screen printing on polyester garments, you will see dye migration. FN-INK™ Barrier Black carbon blocker base is specially made to stop dye migration on polyester garments. Print guru Josh Wells walks you through the entire print process-from art creation to cure-to give you a leg up when using Barrier Black.
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00:00 Intro
00:34 Why does Dye Migration Occur?
01:19 Combatting Dye Migration
02:16 Screen Creation Tips
02:48 Printing Tips
03:39 Curing Tips
04:41 Wrapping Up
I am in advance screen printer at my community college and I told my teacher that the polyester should have a polyester under base so that it would prevent dye migration and bleeding and he said that he never heard of such a thing. It's funny that two days later you guys come out with a video like this lol 😆
Josh Wells is back! Love this guy’s videos
I’m giving a like for that beautiful cookie duster you’re rocking!
hey @Hotpoint Hoodlum. Too kind. Thank you!
What awesome information on polyester printing and dye migration issues! Love it keep up the awesome work!!
Thanks for the kind words, @Courtney Stake!
Making prints on polyester t-shirts is somewhat laborious even when we use the migration block, and we place the hot garment just out of the drying tunnel one on top of the other, it can migrate from the back of a shirt to the front of the shirt below, I recommend it that I apply in the workshop and is to place cheap paper between t-shirts
Like put in paper between the shirts before you go to cure the print?
@@fredytexis1 before and after curing the garment... the heat activates the migration and if we pre-dry the garment it is removed hot from the tray. if we cure the garment in the curing oven, it comes out hot, for that reason I place a sheet of paper between garments
Great work 👍👌👊🏽
Hello!! Do I need a Blocker Base if I am only printing 1 color black plastisol ink? printing my first order on 50/50 and 65/35? love your videos!
Hi @Terrie Diehl . no you would not need a blocker base if you were printing black ink on to either garment. Imagine printing light colored ink onto dark colored garments. THat's when you would use something like Barrier Black. hope that helps.
What about cotton poly blended shirts like the next level 6200?
Can I just put a thick fn ink white base instead of a full poly blocker layer?
Happy Monday @mgkmma ! if there's poly in the garment or there's risk of dye migration, an ink that is not low bleed will do very little for you, no matter how thick it's printed. that's why we need some sort of dye blocking layer. hope that helps.
Oh lord. So we only use a great gun trying to keep temp at 320-340ish. So is that saying the ink is actually at 260-280 or 380-400?
Researching to get rid of dye migration on poly
To prevent dye migration, use Barrier Black and low cure FN Ink to cure at 260
I need some help! If I can’t use a choke how do I register? It seems to show the block barrier under my white base. I’ve been trying to register so it doesn’t show the barrier but it’s really hard, if I stroke my white will that be a problem ?
Hi! So, bottom line about blocker black - its designed to stop (greatly minimize depending on substrate) dyes in the fabric from coming up and into the print. If any part of your ink layer (minus barrier black) touches the garment, the dyes in the fabric can creep up that bit of ink and bleed into your design. Not choking your Barrier Black screen (stacking the barrier and white) keeps the other inks off the fabric.
I understand potential registration issues! It is going to be a struggle depending on your press and your skills with registration. If you haven't yet, check out our recent video where Jamie registers a 4 color design on the Riley 150.
The choice is ultimately yours if you choke the underbase or not.
What about if you use a heat press instead of a conveyor dryer to cure?
Hi @johnl805 ! The premise is the same. The Barrier Black is there to block dye migration. So you would continue the same as usual, but you would be more mindful of your cure temp in order not to get it too high. hope that helps.
Hello, if I am printing on a Heather grey 100% poly shirt, white ink is there a risk of dye migration? As far as I’ve read risk is higher on darker/ brighter shirts. Should I use a poly white ink or regular is fine? Thank you! 🙏🏽
Hi @Alex Santana ! Great question. The risk certainly goes down when you get on to lighter colors of poly. However, it still has potential to tint the ink. For instance, grey heather can tint the white ink a bit yellow at times. Overall, i'm much more likely to gamble on light colors of poly, because even if it does have dye migration it wont be as noticeable as when it's darker colors of garments.... hope that helps!
Hi,
If it’s possible use water based ink on top of BARRIER BLACK or it needs plastisol ink? Thank😬
wow, learned a lot from this! I ran into an issue and now have to salvage the order. essentially what happened is we used a water based reflective ink for a construction company along side a 3 color plastisol design. when the client received their shirts everything looked great... until they washed some. the reflective ink came out! so we got the rest of the shirts back and I figured just run them for the complete cure time of 2 to 3 minutes in the oven... when we did our wash test we got dye migration the next day :( any tips on curing the reflective ink and not getting dye migration? I now know in the future to definitely use a dye blocker. But if anyone has any tips to salvage this order they would be saving me about $3000 *fingers crossed
Hi @Raymond Lerma. This is a rough one! You're doing the right thing by cooking that water based ink for a bit longer. However, it does not help when the garment is prone to dye migration. Couple things you can do though. One solution you mentioned above, which is using a dye blocker. the other is bringing down the temp of the water based ink with something called warp drive. ruclips.net/video/JJZVVbnY4Ao/видео.html // www.screenprinting.com/products/green-galaxy-warp-drive-low-cure-additive
Neither of which help you in this very moment. Sorry, man! Once migration is kicked off, there's not a lot you do about it!
So after the black layer then a white layer then the other colors?
Hi @Caleb Cushing ! yes, you are correct. Barrier black down 1st, white base on top, then other colors. Hope that helps!
What about printing black on poly. Does this work as a stand alone.
Yes, you could use it as a stand alone black. Hope that helps!
Can you use a stretch additive?
Hi @TheJaeblog. You can, but I would use very limited amount. 5% max so that you don't dilute the dye blocking components. You also can experiment with more, but i would do testing before production at that point. Hope that helps!
we uss IC 741 poly base and add low cure aditive into the overprint colors. not flashing the garment more than twice if it can be avoided. getting a final surface cure temp of 320 degrees as the max temp. like the video saya only flash with the needed heat. don't sublimate the garment on press. we print hundreds of dri-fit t's & polos this way. make notes for repeatability.