Thanks for stopping by, I was really surprised with how well these cleaned up. If your new to the channel be sure to subscribe here bit.ly/2VOKOaa and hit the bell, also check out my two Camaro projects: bit.ly/37xVsbP
Thanks for this video. I've got some old motorcycle boots I want to soften and was going to go the wintergreen route, but I like the idea of Simple Green a whole lot better.
I was going to use the wintergreen route as well, but the simple green did the trick. I still have my bottle of wintergreen in the cabinet. I did follow up with some silicone paste. Thanks for watching
we used to put simple green on our rubber break pads on our BMX bikes.. it was like magic back in the 80s.. instant rubber tack! I forgot about that until this video. I"m going to try it for a few things. Simple green is a good method especially because it's pretty cheap and easy to find. I don't like the smell.. the guy who used to market it back in the day used to drink it to say how 'safe' it is..but it's not really safe..at least not to drink.
Wow! This is an awesome job. I have an 87-93 mustang with a rubber air intake tube I think I'm gonna give it a shot it has 30 years of paint and dirt on it
Great, just what I've been looking for. I have two old golf clubs with hard slick rubber grips. So, I just wrapped one with a paper towel and sprayed (soaked) it with simple green (50% water which is still strong). To prevent dripping and evaporation I wrapped with plastic wrap. I might turn once or twice, like rotisserie, over this day long experiment. I'll let you know what happens.
Thanks Dave. I have always been a fan of it. I have the best luck when I soak parts in it. I used it on my sport mirror housings. Hows your project coming?
The Simple Green soak worked very well to clean them up, I just wonder how much of the rubbers "natural" oils, had gotten washed out with all of the dirt and grime? In the past I have cleaned rubber being overly aggressive, using harsher cleaners than Simple Green, but to only have the stuff age and harden even worse then to begin with. Also in seemingly less than half the time it should have taken to reach that point. So now I always spray that type of stuff with cheap original formula Armor All for a couple days off and on. After a much gentler cleaning of course. Letting it soak all it can, wipe it down, let it sit, just to do it again tomorrow and the next day. Seems to go well.
Thank you Brandon. I did go ahead and put a smear of silicone grease on them. They still look new, but haven't been exposed to the elements. If I come up with another set, it would make for a good follow up vid. Thanks for watching.
Just found this browsing the recommendations. I love the 79 z28 5.7 in forza 3 from 2009 even with 175 hp 270 lb./ft I made it 2800 lb. from 3560 using weight reduction 3 and a 6 cog sequential to keep it in the sweet spot with snappy shifts ..its a part of my muscle prius projects in the Xbox game. In reality i am trying to keep my tires pliable from cracking too badly lol. Any suggestions?
This a great question. I'll have to look at these closer when I get them out of storage. I'm thinking these are the same, meaning they will work as a left or right.
The problem I’m currently running into is the turn signal plug seals that go in and rotate to lock inside a 98 Jeep XJ are getting worn out and between bad specs on aftermarket parts they won’t seal on those but on OEM parts still locks decent. I’m sure my seals are worn some but can’t be that dramatic. The other problem is nobody sells these seals as a stand alone part you have to buy the whole pig tail new. Would this work to re-swell those seals?
@@DoubleRRestorations I'm trying to soften the handles on some old fully forged camp axes/hatchets. They're from the mid 1970s, so no clue what type of rubber the over-mould handles are made from. Simple Green is a lot cheaper, and less strong than a 3:1 mixture of 90% isopropyl alcohol to wintergreen oil. Much appreciated. I hope it works. After I'm done softening them, I was going to use J-B Weld Black RTV to seal up some cracks in the handle rubber. If you have a different suggestion, let me know. Thanks again.
@@DoubleRRestorations one of the black rubber handles is completely detached from the steel shaft. That handle is in worse shape. The other handle, on the nicer camp axe/hatchet (it's a Craftsman 4810 made by Vaughan - 1080 high carbon steel) is still adhered very strongly to the steel shaft. Hopefully the Simple Green won't eat away the original adhesive from the rubber to the metal. Even if it does, I still have to adhere the rubber handle of one hatchet to the steel shaft. I figure I'll rough up the steel shaft with some low grit sandpaper paper, or a steel brush on a Dremel Tool. Most people recommend cyanoacrylate to attach the rubber handles to the steel shaft. I've got Loctite blue crazy glue (cyanoacrylate), E6000, and regular J-B Weld. I figure I'll start with the E6000, because it's what I have the most of. There's also a special method for rehandling golf clubs that works quite well, but the materials are expensive. I'm trying to keep this inexpensive, since these hatches have more sentimental value, than real value. I'm concerned if I use regular J-B Weld, the handles will never come off again! That stuff is very strong. I think the E6000 is the right place to start. I'm not sure I trust crazy glue (cyanoacrylate), even though that's what's recommended.
Might have to see if I can do some type of test in the future. The car is mainly in the garage and these still look great, but a test has them exposed to the elements would be great. Thanks for the idea!
Double R Restorations Let me know what silicon product you are considering. They recommend that you coat all the rubber seals around the convertible top and trunk lid on my Corvette.
@@rjrestorationstation4402 Ok will do Bob. I have been looking at what I have in the shop. I may buy a tube of something, probably something that is safe for o rings.
Raab604 Simple green was not effective at all. Probably because the mudflaps are made out of a mixture of rubber and some type of filler (fiberglass?). But I got good results using black trim restorer and using a hot iron to flatten them.
Great video man. Not sure we get Simple Green in Australia, will need to lookup its ingredients to find something similar. Edit: turns out we do have it here! :)
great tip man. let's save the earth by not throwing these parts in the landfill. just takes a little elbow grease and some time.These old parts are getting more expensive every year. Thanks and God Bless!
The Simple Green already made them soft as new and Simple Green is way cheaper than 303 so this makes more sense than using 303. Save the 303 for other uses.
If that is 50/50 Simple Green youre fine, but if thats straight concentrate then you're just wasting it. You could dilute it to like 25% Simple Green and 75% water and achieve the same thing.
Thanks for stopping by, I was really surprised with how well these cleaned up. If your new to the channel be sure to subscribe here bit.ly/2VOKOaa and hit the bell, also check out my two Camaro projects: bit.ly/37xVsbP
That voice just fills me with confidence. No science necessary. Every bit of advice from such a soothing toned voice must be right. Lets do it!!
Thank you Don, and thanks for watching!
Nice job Russ! They came out beautiful., I never would have believed they could look that good again.
Me neither Wayne. I got these used off eBay. My car originally had manual windows. Thanks
Had 0 luck with my motorcycle parts. Wintergreen oil worked great.
Was planning on using the Wintergreen after the Simple Green, but these boots just didn't need it.
This is great news. I would have never know this. I have a bucket of Simple green ready to go for my restoration project. Thank you.
Thanks and thanks for watching!
Wow! That works really well! I will definitely use this method on my C-10. Thanks for the great video Russ!
Thanks Bart, yea I was surprised myself.
Thanks for this video. I've got some old motorcycle boots I want to soften and was going to go the wintergreen route, but I like the idea of Simple Green a whole lot better.
I was going to use the wintergreen route as well, but the simple green did the trick. I still have my bottle of wintergreen in the cabinet. I did follow up with some silicone paste. Thanks for watching
we used to put simple green on our rubber break pads on our BMX bikes.. it was like magic back in the 80s.. instant rubber tack! I forgot about that until this video. I"m going to try it for a few things. Simple green is a good method especially because it's pretty cheap and easy to find. I don't like the smell.. the guy who used to market it back in the day used to drink it to say how 'safe' it is..but it's not really safe..at least not to drink.
I did not know that. It does work very well and it is safe for sure. Thanks for watching.
Grt simple green "clear" its the same minus the sassafras and color
Never would have thought ! Will come in handy on my '77 Trans Am project. Thanks for the videos !
I was surprised myself. Thanks for watching.
I always forget that simple green works so well for many a thing. That's awesome Russ
Thanks Grant, Yea this one surprised me. I thought at first, maybe I shouldn't make a video of it, since it was just some cleaning. I'm glad I did.
Wow! This is an awesome job. I have an 87-93 mustang with a rubber air intake tube I think I'm gonna give it a shot it has 30 years of paint and dirt on it
Thank you. I hope it works well for you.
Phenomenal outcome. Thanks for reminding me how good simple green can work.
You bet!
Wow turned out fantastic! Thanks for sharing.👍
Thanks for watching
That was awesome - I love Simple Green it has so many uses.
Me too!
Great, just what I've been looking for. I have two old golf clubs with hard slick rubber grips. So, I just wrapped one with a paper towel and sprayed (soaked) it with simple green (50% water which is still strong). To prevent dripping and evaporation I wrapped with plastic wrap. I might turn once or twice, like rotisserie, over this day long experiment. I'll let you know what happens.
Thanks, I hope it helps
How'd the grips soaked in n Simple Green come out?
Checking in on the result
That's a heck of a difference. I will absolutely try this on my Camaro project and see how it goes. Thanks a ton.
Thanks. I hope it helps. Let me know how yours turns out. These cleaned up very well.
A nice natural finish. That was a good tip.
Thanks Wyatt. I'm really happy with the way these turned out.
Wow ive always wondered about restoring old rubber parts. This is neat
Thanks and thanks for watching
Can this work with shoes that the rubber has hardened over time? Or is it too late?
Wouldn't hurt to try, let me know how it works
They look as good as new Russ. Thanks for the info. I wouldn't have thought to use simple green for that.
Thanks, Same here Dan. I've been using it for awhile now and it sure has made a believer out of me.
Going to try this on some grungy shifter boots grabbed from junkyard, thx for video
Simple green is great stuff! They look new!
Thanks Dave. I have always been a fan of it. I have the best luck when I soak parts in it. I used it on my sport mirror housings. Hows your project coming?
@@DoubleRRestorations Getting ready to start back at it !!
Good ole simple green. I had no idea. 👍👍
Good stuff!
We used simple green on the submarine all the time. That and those green scuff pads (greenies) and we could clean anything and everything!
Thanks Chris, yea I love those green pads. lol
Could you tell me what’s the ratio of the Wintergreen essential oil and isopropyl. You said 1/4 to 3 parts. I’d like to know in which order please.
I bought those items thinking I would also need them, but the simple green worked so well that I didn't use them.
Simple Green isn't the only cleaner in the world it is probably my favorite
True, mine too!
Good video Russ. I will be trying this on the boots from my El Camino.
Thanks Wiley, let me know how yours turn out. I hope it helps.
The Simple Green soak worked very well to clean them up, I just wonder how much of the rubbers "natural" oils, had gotten washed out with all of the dirt and grime? In the past I have cleaned rubber being overly aggressive, using harsher cleaners than Simple Green, but to only have the stuff age and harden even worse then to begin with. Also in seemingly less than half the time it should have taken to reach that point. So now I always spray that type of stuff with cheap original formula Armor All for a couple days off and on. After a much gentler cleaning of course. Letting it soak all it can, wipe it down, let it sit, just to do it again tomorrow and the next day. Seems to go well.
Thank you Brandon. I did go ahead and put a smear of silicone grease on them. They still look new, but haven't been exposed to the elements. If I come up with another set, it would make for a good follow up vid. Thanks for watching.
This or at-205?
Thanks for putting this out there
Thanks for watching!
Great results Russ.
Thanks George
It is all in the details. Thanks. I have my first power window car so this will be handy. P.
Awesome. Thanks for watching
Looking great, Russ. Thanks.
Thanks Indy.
Love the results, fantastic work!
Thank you!
They look amazing Russ! Very impressive 👍☺️
Thanks Niamh, I was very pleased with the way they turned out
Great results! Thanks for the tip.
Thank you.
I'm curious now if there is a chemical reaction element between the SG and the rubber that brings it back to life ?
Could be, it did a really great job at bringing it back.
Looking good. Now put some rubber gloves on with a few dabs of dielectric grease and work it into them. They will look that way for years.
Thanks da teatorjr. I will look into that. I may have some in the shop.
Using this for some Clark’s shoes! (Wallabees and desert boots)They have a gum rubber bottom that tends to get dirty and stiff.
Good deal. Hope it works good!
Does it work on silicone rubber such as hardened valve cover gasket?
I have never tried it on an old valve cover gasket.
Looks brand new
Thanks Jeff
What is simple green ? .. what is it made of .. I have never heard of a product like this in Australia .. is it a detergent ?
thank you from South Africa
Awesome, Thanks for watching Allan
Great info, I will be using this on my part for my 442
Awesome. Thanks for watching.
can i spray diesel on rubber to make it last long?
I'm sorry, I just don't know. I used a silicone paste on these after this vid. Seems to have held up well
That looks great buddy! I wish I could find a set of those for my conversion.
Thanks Erik. I got these off eBay. I took a chance on them. There are a few sets that look similar to these on there now.
@@DoubleRRestorations Cool. I'll check it out. Thanks buddy
Good job
Do you have to soak or can you spray and clean while the suspension parts on the car
You could try to just spray it on and let it set. I have never tried that method, but ist worth trying
Good video Russ however what about the inside of the rubber tube where the wiring or cabling goes
Thanks Albert, good question, it worked just as good on the inside as well.
Just found this browsing the recommendations. I love the 79 z28 5.7 in forza 3 from 2009 even with 175 hp 270 lb./ft I made it 2800 lb. from 3560 using weight reduction 3 and a 6 cog sequential to keep it in the sweet spot with snappy shifts ..its a part of my muscle prius projects in the Xbox game. In reality i am trying to keep my tires pliable from cracking too badly lol. Any suggestions?
Not real sure on the tires. lol
How long did you let it sit in the Simple Green
About 48hrs
Ps, could this work to extend the life of windscreen wipers?
I probably wouldn't use it on wipers. Usually about a year is all I get out of a pair.
SG is good stuff, we use it at work. I'll use it on some of the rubber on mine. Thanks for sharing
It sure is Jeff. Let me know how it works out on your parts!
So years on, did they end up holding up ok? Didn’t dry out or anything?
They still look new, but haven't been exposed to the elements.
Trying to understand what's in the Simple Green, as we do not have this product in Europe...
Would like to soften and restore door gaskets.
It's basically a degreaser
How about on tires?
I'm not sure on tires.
How can you tell the difference between right and left on those?
This a great question. I'll have to look at these closer when I get them out of storage. I'm thinking these are the same, meaning they will work as a left or right.
The problem I’m currently running into is the turn signal plug seals that go in and rotate to lock inside a 98 Jeep XJ are getting worn out and between bad specs on aftermarket parts they won’t seal on those but on OEM parts still locks decent. I’m sure my seals are worn some but can’t be that dramatic. The other problem is nobody sells these seals as a stand alone part you have to buy the whole pig tail new. Would this work to re-swell those seals?
Arthur, I didn't notice any swelling of the rubber. It just seem to soften it up. Hope it helps. Thanks.
The is the name of the solution u used ?
Simple Green. Thanks
Great vid. Learned something.
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching
Thanks for the information good video.
Thanks Mr.404 Atl. I hope it helps.
Did the Simple Green soften the rubber a bit?
Yes it did, I left it in there a few days checking in periodically
@@DoubleRRestorations I'm trying to soften the handles on some old fully forged camp axes/hatchets. They're from the mid 1970s, so no clue what type of rubber the over-mould handles are made from. Simple Green is a lot cheaper, and less strong than a 3:1 mixture of 90% isopropyl alcohol to wintergreen oil. Much appreciated. I hope it works. After I'm done softening them, I was going to use J-B Weld Black RTV to seal up some cracks in the handle rubber. If you have a different suggestion, let me know. Thanks again.
Sounds like plan, let me know how it goes. I did put some silicone paste on these boots afterwards and they still look new.
@@DoubleRRestorations one of the black rubber handles is completely detached from the steel shaft. That handle is in worse shape. The other handle, on the nicer camp axe/hatchet (it's a Craftsman 4810 made by Vaughan - 1080 high carbon steel) is still adhered very strongly to the steel shaft. Hopefully the Simple Green won't eat away the original adhesive from the rubber to the metal. Even if it does, I still have to adhere the rubber handle of one hatchet to the steel shaft. I figure I'll rough up the steel shaft with some low grit sandpaper paper, or a steel brush on a Dremel Tool. Most people recommend cyanoacrylate to attach the rubber handles to the steel shaft. I've got Loctite blue crazy glue (cyanoacrylate), E6000, and regular J-B Weld. I figure I'll start with the E6000, because it's what I have the most of. There's also a special method for rehandling golf clubs that works quite well, but the materials are expensive. I'm trying to keep this inexpensive, since these hatches have more sentimental value, than real value. I'm concerned if I use regular J-B Weld, the handles will never come off again! That stuff is very strong. I think the E6000 is the right place to start. I'm not sure I trust crazy glue (cyanoacrylate), even though that's what's recommended.
It looks good, but why wasn't it diluted?
I just decided to use it at full strength
I'd like to see the long term results.
Might have to see if I can do some type of test in the future. The car is mainly in the garage and these still look great, but a test has them exposed to the elements would be great. Thanks for the idea!
Thank you . Very good video.
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching
Interesting, did U use simple green straight? Cheers Graham
Yes I did. Thanks.
A little silicone spray on the exterior goes a long way to protect and give a shiny look at the very end.
Sure does, I ordered a small jar of silicone paste. Seemed to work well
Good tip RR. Thanks.
Thanks Glenn
Good video Russ.
Thanks Roger.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks Dan
What is simple green? Btw the outcome was great 👍
Its a degreaser. Its supposed to be safe and can be diluted if needed
Did you mix the simple green or was it concentrate ?
It was straight out of the container. Thanks.
Looks fantastic Russ. Do you plan on using any silicone spray on them?
Thanks Bob. Yes, I plan on putting something on them. Just a tad of something to protect them. I will let them air dry for a bit.
Double R Restorations Let me know what silicon product you are considering. They recommend that you coat all the rubber seals around the convertible top and trunk lid on my Corvette.
@@rjrestorationstation4402 Ok will do Bob. I have been looking at what I have in the shop. I may buy a tube of something, probably something that is safe for o rings.
Double R Restorations Great, Thanks Russ.
F-bodys forever 🔥🔥🔥
Gonna try this on the mudflaps of my old land rover. They’re super stiff.
Let me know how it works out. Thanks for watching.
Raab604 Simple green was not effective at all. Probably because the mudflaps are made out of a mixture of rubber and some type of filler (fiberglass?). But I got good results using black trim restorer and using a hot iron to flatten them.
Great video man. Not sure we get Simple Green in Australia, will need to lookup its ingredients to find something similar. Edit: turns out we do have it here! :)
Cool! Let me know how you like it.
you can get it a Bunnings
Great video- very helpful. So you soaked for 48 hours in the concentrated Simple Green, correct? You didn't dilute at all? Many thanks.
Thank you. That is correct. Just be sure to check the progress. 48 hours worked great on my parts.
Are they still feeling as soft as when you originally did the job on them?
Yes they are, I did put a coating of silicone grease on them as well. Thanks for stopping by.
great tip man. let's save the earth by not throwing these parts in the landfill. just takes a little elbow grease and some time.These old parts are getting more expensive every year. Thanks and God Bless!
Thank you and thanks for watching
Saved yourself some real money by saving those boot Russ.
Yes, Thanks Lloyd. They don't reproduce these, that I know of. I took a chance on buying them in this condition. I'm happy with them now.
Gallon of Simple Green $ 9-10 at big box stores.
Yes! Thats usually how I buy it. I just keep a clean spray bottle handy to pour it in when needed.
Great Job.
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Soaking them in Aerospace 303 would make them soft as new.
Thanks for the tip Larry. I will look into it.
The Simple Green already made them soft as new and Simple Green is way cheaper than 303 so this makes more sense than using 303. Save the 303 for other uses.
Wow a little elbow grease goes along way, 9x out of 10 many parts, can be brought back from the dead with a good cleaning.
Very true. Thanks for watching
AT205 would've helped soften them
LubeGard Seal Fixx is the same stuff as AT205 but at half the price. He didn't need it though, the Simple Green left them soft enough.
Wouldn't silicon spray work better
I did coat them afterwards before I put them in storage with a silicone paste.
ARMOROIL ATE UP MY RUBBER BOOTS ON MY CAR 😱😱😩
You should spray it with silicone
Thanks, I did end up taking some silicone paste and rubbing it into in to preserve them.
If that is 50/50 Simple Green youre fine, but if thats straight concentrate then you're just wasting it. You could dilute it to like 25% Simple Green and 75% water and achieve the same thing.
Good tip. I always save some of my old spray bottles to reclaim what I don't use and use somewhere else.
A narrow tall jar would have been better than that flat RubberMaid.
>
Yep, that would also work great.
Spray some at-205 keep soft for ever
Thanks
Love the accent
thanks from Australia
Thanks so much, and thanks for watching!