I like how you explain things thoroughly and in detail, without assuming the viewer already knows anything. That really increases my confidence *you* know what you're talking about and I can rely on what you say. Thanks!
Love your videos. One note that might help you with the 2awg wire crimping is to remember that the way the lugs bite it will hold much better if you put something in the Vice when you crimp it to prevent flattening the entire thing because the way they hold is by pinching one part of the cable while the furthest end is more flared and that’s what prevents it from pulling out. The problem with flattening the entire end is that if the entire cable is pinched the same it can eventually pull out. Maybe you won’t have any trouble with yours but just in case you do or they start coming loose hope this helps. You might could even take a full chisel and instead of just hitting it with a hammer alone use the chisel to secure it.
I really like your non technical approach . I learn so much just watching and listening to your straight forward explanations. Love hearing about your obstacles and how you resolved them. Thanks for taking the time to put these vids together!!
Those who understand the term "unbreakable" to be a thrown gauntlet are my people. We are many. we are not always very bright. We can lift heavy things. I broke an anvil once. STRONG! like BULL!... SMART! like TRACTOR!
"Finally something works"! We've all been there, hahahaha! 😂 Someone posted "what about using capacitors to cover your inrush load?" (paraphrased) Had the same thought too but then i thought what about using an old school centrifugal clutch or variable speed torque drive to ease the initial take off. (Ease it on slowly) Just a thought. Maybe even something as primitive as a manual engagement like on an edger. I'll review more of your vids to see if you already dialed it in (i might just be johnny come lately). Your greatest virtue is inspiring the thoughts & ideas of others! Thank you SO much for that sir!
I had an electric car(Renault Lectric Leopard). It ran on 16 golfcart batteries. The speed controller was a relay switch that switched between 24 and 48 volts. I was hoping to make my own speed controller using a 555 timer, opamp and H bridge.. I never got to do it, but I hope all of those people out there will never stop being creative.. God Bless.
I had a stack of 3 12v sealed lead acid batteries and an elaborate series/parallel switch to go to 36 volt series for powering an amplifier and 12 volt for the charger I had. I had the trouble in that it would short under load because of the arcing within the switch itself. The capacitor in the amp drew quite a high current when going from 12 to 36 volt mode and I had to install an easy break in the circuit to avoid melting wires. What I really needed was a switchable power resistor to limit the inrush current. Also a fuse.
Super sweet build! In regard to having a passenger seat for one of your kids, have you considered splitting up the battery placement? It looks like you can put two forward and two back, therefore leaving some legroom in the middle. Put a little diy bench seat above the two back placed batteries and you'll be good to give your kids a thrill!
Hi Jeremy, the flanged bearings you want to use look like normal ball bearings. There are a couple of serious problems with that. Most of them are meant for supporting loads perpendicular to axle (radial loads) even if they look very beefy they are very bad at handling axial loads. Depending on the type of ball bearing they can handle axial loads from 25% to 50% of their maximum radial load and unfortunately axial and radial loads add up (vector addition). Another problem is alignment, shafts supported by two bearings and the center-lines of rotation of these bearings are not within 2-10 minutes of arc then large forces are exerted on the bearings that may destroy them. (unless they are self-aligning bearings) All of the above problems are made worse by the fact the cart has no differential. Your bearings are probably O.K. if you only want to drive a little bit faster than walking speed. If not the best case scenario is that you will have to replace the bearings regularly. I would recommend using tapered roller bearings, they are build for that purpose and are a much safer and in the long run cheaper option. Wow That was probably more than you ever wanted to know about bearings :) and sorry if that was a little long winded or sounded weird English is not my first language. I really appreciate your videos! Thanks and good luck with your Kart.
I am pretty sure the are spherical bearings but I will double check. But they swivel and can handle misalignment. There isn't much axial load in this application in my opinion... as long as I am careful to align the sprockets with each other. I do plan to calculate the bending on the shaft as I am more worried about the distance between the bearings. But at 1" or about 25mm my larger motor at 10 hp shouldn't be a major problem. I will definitely check though.
You are probably right, I did a couple of rough calculations, assuming a total wight of 400kg (~880 lbs.) and a speed of 10 mph I got around 2-3 kN of centrifugal force for a 90° turn with 3m radius. Then I used the SKF bearing calculator (webtools.skf.com/BearingCalc/selectProduct.action;jsessionid=0 ) to check the combined forces. Well that was fun now I want to start a new project. Keep up the good work.
I am pleased I found your, RUclips channel. I have been inspired to build a 2" x 72" sander/ grinder using a treadmill motor. Thanks for the Information, education, and the inspiration. Keep the vids coming.
Send the vise back. It should not break with hand turning. Maybe if you had a four foot bar on it, and putting your full body weight. If it broke by hand cranking, you should return it without guilt. I would bet you something nice that you can repeat the job with the replacement and it will not fail.... just my 2 cents worth. Harbour freight replaces this type of thing no questions asked ! Oh, by the way I really like your videos, they have been a tremendous help, and source of inspiration and information in my quest for an electric bike, keep making these excellent videos !
Excellent videos and thanks for making these! One caveat with Life P04 batteries are that they hate cold weather. They are better suited for indoor or mild weather usage.
You can get solder slugs from places like O’Reilly auto parts for doing up big gauge wires, put one in the cable end hit it with some heat then shove the wire in.
I really appreciate you making all these videos so we can watch you build these electric cart motor thingies cuz I think it's pretty cool I wish I knew how to do it
HI jeremy u r such a good teacher. whenever u eplain what it is u r doing. Its very clear. Love the project u r working on, That a nice go cart,, Only sorry it didn't work with the half HP washer motor. U have inspired me to make a pepper grinder usind a washing machine motor,
You might want to get ahold of a PLC. That way you can use a 5volt controller and 60volt motors. You might also want to consider a smaller high torc motor to get you started and then use the larger motor to make you actually go.
Really enjoy your videos, and I enjoy tinkering with salvaged motors as well. I suggest you google "sledger cable crimp" and have a look see at a simple way to crimp terminals on large cable. It is a punch and die that you wham with a big hammer, makes quick work of crimping large connectors. Inexpensive too.
I ground crimp notches in a small bolt cutter for crimping larger connectors. The bolt cutters were already chipped so I had nothing to lose with this mod. Works perfectly.
That is awesome. Wish I had this comment back before I bought a tool LOL. Thanks for the great suggestion. I think even if you bought a new one it would be cheaper and work well
I'm curious why you didn't use solder on the terminals instead of crimping? I've purchased some for 00 gauge wire that was preloaded with solder. Just heat it up and shove the wire in. Nice and simple.
A cheap way to get your speed would be a bicycle computer from ebay easy fix .. I love the Videos , I owned a shop that worked on karts for years ans have done a bunch of mods on them . I have a suggestion for you if you have some fab skills and some welding ability you could mount all 4 batteries right behind the two seats by stretching the kart 16/18 inches . Build a tray so you can mount the sideways side by side . That solves your center of gravity issue and shortens the cables , and gives you a mid engine feel cause the weight is so low . Just box the frame extend the the shock mounts on the frame and brace and your back in business Your brakes are hydraulic just longer barke line and your good ! lol If you lived in Vegas i would hook you up lol O just make dual shock mounts so you can use two more cheap shocks like stock ones cheaper than quality shocks with the proper spring rate Just a suggestion Great Videos !
Don't write off Li-Ion/Li-Po because you are scared of it or don't understand it. It's VERY easy to make a battery pack using re-purpose 18650 or even new ones. I see you are running 48V. You could build a 14S6P pack which would weigh MAYBE 20lbs while providing 20+ amps continuous and 20 AH. I have built a 14S6P for around $120 total. There are DIY battery kits that are no solder set ups, just plug and play
I need at least 100 amps continuously for 30 minutes and up to 200 amps if I want to floor it. I understand how to make it. We all have different things we prefer to do. Soldering batteries is low on my list.
Soldering is at the bottom of my list, for certain. Fortunately, I have access to a spot welder! Unfortunately, I don't know of any method to get 200 amps out of a lead battery that doesn't weight 100+ lbs. Hopefully one of your other neighbors can help!
He mentioned that those who want to can go with Lithium for reduced weight. He obviously understands the trade offs. There is no getting around the fact that lithium ion battery packs are more complex and expensive than lead acid batteries, assuming you compare fairly (new vs new of the same Wh capacity).
If those terminals are aluminum, then you need to apply an oxidation inhibitor (e.g. Noalox) to all connections or they will get hot over time and start a fire. It is more likely that the terminals are tinned copper.
adding a jack shaft when you could have easily notched that frame? And Ive had several of these spiderbox karts, and that weight of the batteries is maxing out the crappy suspension, time to upgrade those springs/shocks as well. Should be a fun toy once done!
I thought the same about the shocks--I've got the Yerf Dog kart a few notches down w/o the rear swingarm suspension and only the lower A arm up front and the stock shocks aren't gonna handle that weight very well. I also wondered about combining his direct drive setup with the original torque clutch--I know the motor has enough torque, but using a sprocket to multiply the input shaft speed on a 50-series Comet clutch should net a higher top speed and a smoother take off. I had been thinking about an electric conversion for mine, but I think keeping the original gas engine is just easier...
My batteries rest symmetrically in a pan, under the seat. They're also slightly rear of CM to help stability. Also front end alignment is dependent on mass distribution, especially at any appreciable speed. Negative camber can help around the corners with that much mass.
A large Mercury outboard starter an airplane prop and 72 volt atched to bumper of truck and rolled truck and blew trash all over my yard quiet a sight! Gonna be a bit fine cart!
I have a vise suggestion. Get a sovieth vise, made in the USSR. I'm not a fan of communism but i am a fan of older tools, that sweep the floor in performance compared to newer ones. You might have to do a little restoration but it's well worth it. Even the rust covered ones do better job, than the newer ones.
What you need is a step up / step down voltage controller (can't remember exactly what it is called) the idea is to step up the voltage as the lead acid battery drains down keeping it at 13.8 volts. This enables you to get rid of 2 of the batteries losing 120 pounds. Add a solar panel to the top and you will increase your range even more. I believe with a little work a 160 watt panel would fit although you would want to start as far back as possible. Perhaps 2 100 watt panels could fit one in the rear the other in front. Even one would help alot. Keep in n mind if you decide to add this, that many (far too many) solar panels are very fragile, many without any protective glass on top so at least get some plexi-glass (with space to dissipate heat and for protection and keep it waxed for performance) for the top and some epoxy for the underside for strength.
That's a really nice go kart! My pos had no suspension, the large gear was connected to the one drive wheel, almost as big as the tire, and the goddamn axle kept breaking it's weld (it was inserted into the frame, so it wouldn't break off entirely, but wouldn't be straight), so the chain would derail. The only upside is it had a lot of torque to get up hills easily, so it was fairly slow top speed.
man I just found your channel and love it. it the same stuff I'm playing around with all the time at home. love it, keep up the great work. pro tip. theres an easy way to attach th is e ends on your wires. is involves just using an low flame on a torch and filling the end with solder and then putting the cable in. the solder will wick up the wire and be solidly connected. we use this in car audio all the time and there are a couple examples on RUclips under some car audio channels. maybe good info for next time. love the channel so far 👍
I use a bench press to make my cables. You can get a 6 ton bench press from HF pretty affordably, and they work great for lots of things including cable crimps.
Unless you're a long term extreme bodybuilder... no, a vise that big should have held. Another thing would be if you added more leverage somehow, but since you said you didn't, this means very much that the vise is at fault.
Agreed. I have 3 vise's and i put allot of force on them and have never broken one. I even use cheater bars with them now and then or hit the handles with a hammer even.
It broke because he tightened it up and then HIT it. That's what snapped the shaft. However it's a POS and very small for hobby use only. Harbor Freight will replace it under warranty.
So every good workbench needs a good solid vice. The problem is that anything new is going to be made out of Chinesium steel (unless you want to pay big bucks). You should take back your Harbor Freight vise and should refund you your money) and use the money to buy an old America Vice for cheap on Craigslist, etc. Those old Vices are so well build they will last several lifetimes... Just look for one that has good jaws, hasn't been repaired (I.E: welded) and looks decent structurally, don't worry at all about the finish because if it looks crusty you can get them for cheap. They are super easy to clean up, throw a new paint job on and grease and then you will have a Vice that will last for the rest of your lifetime and then some. Some great old American Brands to look for are Wilton, Reed, Chas Parker, Starrett/Athol, Prentise, Morgan, etc, but if if was made in America, it will more be likely good. You should be able to find something for around $50 and once you clean it up they can be even be resold for sometimes up to $200 as they can be highly sought after depending on condition/make, etc... A little tip for you, you deserve a real vise... keep up the good work!
I love my Chas Parker! I got it for $30 at a flea market. It’s a #44 and turns out to be super rare. The online database of all Chas Parker vises doesn’t even list it. I’m not sure if it is worth anything but I know it is a beast and will outlast me.
clean the inside of your lug then clamp the lug into a vise and heat with a torch then fill your lug with wire solder and insert the stripped wire and let cool. then you can reuse the lug if necessary in the future vs. crimping.
Hi. you can use that pressure clamp in your others videos, for those wires terminals; and slowly press and it is best if you can add tin solder, before placing insulation. Greetings !
I tell anyone don’t try to do any press work with vices …..as you know you get what you pay for in a vice. With that said even if I had a great vice I keep press work on the press and as far as crimping I would use a battery crimp tool before using a vice…don’t feel bad…..you are not the first victim of a harbor freight vice….. by the way love your vids.
how could you not do a follow up video to this!! (yes, I saw the cart go in that video) what motor did you use? speed controller? how did you rig the shaft and final sprocket? argggg!!! ;)
LOL... There was a short video that covered some of this stuff but I deleted it about a month ago while deleting some other non-build/non-teaching videos that were meant to be temporary. The motor I used (discovered through testing) was falsely advertised to have more power than it actually has... I didn't want people to see it without being able to explain that it is NOT what they say it is. If I do that in a separate video the wrong people will see it. I didn't want to support that manufacture. I know from emails and comments that people often buy things they see me use even if I don''t say I like it or talk about it.
You ripped the handle off your bench vice with your bare hands! Must all that wrenching parts out of random appliances? that is just another reason to be good to people cause you just never know whos capable of accidently snapping you in two with their vice breaking grip. All jokes aside i have learned and continue to learn so much from your videos, you explain things so concisely and clearly and give excellent examples of what you mean and everytime i wonder if an idea i have is good or practical or even possible it seems you have made a geeat video answering the exact thing i was wondering, thank you for all the hard work you do in sharing this knowledge with me and undoubtebly so many others aswell
Place one battery on the sliding frame of the drivers seat below your legs - two place inclined , as a back rest for the raised passenger seat that has the forth one below it (the batteries in an L form)- the central location will give good distribution of weight - passenger seat sitting a little forward of drivers -
May I suggest Headway LiFePO4 (lthium phisphate) batteries from Battery Hookup? They have different grades, including tested good with most capacity still remaining for cheap. Lead acid chargers wor fine with these,, and you never have to limit current on these unless your charger can exceed 200 amps! Maximum discharge is 300A, so they are very low impedance. They have bus bars for these, and even sell pre-made 24/48 volt batteries made using them. Along with other server and EV batteries that would probably suit, along with fuses,, high current contactirs, and BMS for LiPO and pouch cells that are a lot less robust than the Headway cells. All at highly competitive prices.
NiCD batteries could be another option, they have a higher power density than lead acid. Unlike lead acid, you can abuse the heck out of NiCds. They can be shorted, drained to 0 volts, over charged or fast charged, and they keep on running. Lead acid, even deep cycle batteries shouldn;t be drained more than 50% capacity and have to be slow charged, usually over a 24 hour period. Only issue is trying to find them. I have some 12v NiCd packs that were used in emergency lighting, they have to be over 10 years old and they still work great. NiCds seem really under rated now a days.
ROFL - it would cost a fortune to build a NiCD pack with enough capacity for reasonable run time. But yes, they do have good current capacity, provided that they are designed for that (ie: Power Tool cells, not Emergency Lighting packs).
I'd say the documentation for that new controller is wrong, otherwise the specs on the label would match. I find that sort of thing happens sometimes with no-name products. Good info none the less. I'm building an electric dirt bike atm. 3kW drive system.
The documentation does match the controller. It has two "nominal settings" 60 and 72. But each one has a working range. and that is what I was referring to.
I've been selling high power controllers since 2005 and my educated guess is that your Curtis controller is going to test good when you send it back. If you have not done that yet try again at a minimum voltage of at least 60 volts, and source this power from good lead acid batteries that have all passed a load test. If you add a car battery to your 4 battery deep cycle pack, AND all the batteries can maintain 10+ volts under 100+ amp load, you will have enough power to charge the massive capacitors in the Curtis controller and it will work. Curtis is a long term industry leader in motor control, not a "no-name product" as James suggested. Alltrax motor controllers are also superior products and offer simple user friendly programming of things like min/max voltage, ramp-up rate, max current etc. The smaller controller that came with your motor is either a Curtis copy or a remanufactured Curtis and the case size puts it in the 100 to 175 amp range. Good luck, and remember to always respect the power (and dangers involved) with this much battery.
Already did exactly this. 5 “load tested” , fully charged batteries. I thought the same thing. I followed the troubleshooting guide in the manual. It failed test 4. The manual says faulty controller if test 4 fails. My new one has arrived and it works great.
Back in business is the good thing. I am still getting caught up on your videos and diversity of projects (bad-_ss band saw by the way), so I need more viewing time but there is a lot to learn when you go electric. I'm guessing by now you have got the "electric bug" and I'm sure it won't be long before you have the Curtis running at max voltage which will make for fun acceleration (at least until the brushes melt into the armature). ha ha keep up the good work.
My Suggestion is. ... You Can Use Those Lithium Batteries from Cordless Lawn Mowers , They Have 60 vlts. You can Fix 4 in Parallel. @ 60 amps. I'm guessing.?.
best way for this is to buy non working packs off ebay, generally one cell dies or a wire burns out in the pack and you still get 3 good cells for cheap.
Great series of videos. I am a neophyte at projects such as this. One basic thing that I don’t understand. Why do you need a speed controller? Why can’t you simply use a potentiometer to control the speed of the motor? Dumb question I know, but if anyone knows the answer please post.
Since you like to repurpose thinks. Look for some old Prius or Leaf NiMH batteries. You can buy the whole battery pack or just the individual cells for cheap. I believe each cell is 7.6 volts. Just connect in series until you get the voltage you want. Not as good as Lithium but way lighter than lead. Thanks for sharing.
May want to do some rough math on the cg. Mounting 240lbs behind your head, with your weight in the seat - it may not be as bad as you think in terms of cg. Recall that it's your roll center (driven by your suspension geometry, easy to estimate based on your suspension type) and the moment arm created by your cg. If you're doing a 1g or 2g turn, does the roll over moment exceed the weight pulling you down... It may be the case that some cg from roll actually let's the car feel more "fun" without becoming a safety concern - and you have room for your little ones. Moving the motor towards the pivot of your chassis, you could also put your jackshaft in board, mounting it in the length of the swing arm. It looks like your chain is really beefy too, you could also step that down to support smaller drive gears (though not a hell of a lot smaller) but at least get better wrap on the shaft. Also - your rear sprocket as is might be your first mechanical fuse, teeth are looking a little thin. Finally, don't forget you'll need a way to tension the chains - especially new they will stretch with use. Awesome channel though, really appreciate the teachings - helps me keep the smoke IN the wires!!
If you ever need a wiring diagram for industrial electric carts, I can send you some. I deal with curtis controllers a lot at work and they are fairly easy to wire right and wrong if not paying attention.
Another alternative would be to place the batteries across the back of the seating area from one side to the other, posdibly creating a bench style seat/platform w/cushion atop the battery bank.
Hi Jeremy, I was wondering if you can recommend any reliable 48v 2hp dc motors that I can purchase to make a scooter. It would have to work with standard bike controllers. I see alot of vevor Chinese motors but I really like known names like baldor or person, but those guys make 90v and 24v.
What about used NiMH Prius modules? These batteries can be had for relatively inexpensive and have semi modular construction. Moderate weight savings over Lead Acid batteries and can be wired for all sorts of voltages.
super capacitors my friend lighten it right up ! I lost a comment to the ads about my bike ni got wear and tear on the motor a gas one .... yeah sorry but I need to drive it everywhere m but I wanted bto kow if ya could do more on gearing and Jack shaft l final output gears I am running belt drive as it slips the belt slightly to get it in it's seemingly correct power band it needs but as theoror wears how does one compensate for lower end with only a little sacrifice on top speed nite too fast anyway lol great teacher you are in all aspects of life ! we are very much the same breed indeed and yeah never ever buy a cheapo vise lol cheap pot metal boat anchors more like it ! aces out keep up that stye!
Agreed (with Lagger Onesixfour), & material selection is often to blame (its built to a price-point: cheap design). What I’ve seen do this most often is cast aluminum, esp’ly where it’s implemented in any high-shear application, or as AVE would say, where the 200lb gorilla meets the load. I once (and anyone could do this as a party trick btw, impress the wife if need be) sheared the handle off an ‘all metal’ garlic press. (Pressing garlic of course, but the garlic was tougher. One tough clove & she buckled)
Four new, fully charged lead acid batteries in series is about 53 volts. With any age, discharge, and/or load, that's going to drop. The Curtis rating of 48 volts is obviously out of spec - they expect most of their units will work that low, but some may not, so the low end voltage tolerance is going to vary. Add any voltage drop from the batteries and possibly wires and connectors, and the voltage it gets might be too low.
Jeremy F-Most of the motor controllers break, when you switch them crosswise on reverse. what you need is a controller with two controllers inside. so that the relais switch from one contoller to the other one. otherwise the device will quit the job . I´m building an e-gocart for my kids since two weeks now. I am using a car steering assistent motor with a worm gear. The controller is a chinese with 40 amps and 10-50volts. it has two controllers inside. I can run the motor with 24v. Why don´t you use a truck generator, cabled as a motor? It should be very strong and you only need 24 V or 36V.
Hey, great videos. Thank you!! Ut is a cheap vice. Ihave the same one and I used a pipe to get more leverage (cheater?) and the steel shaft broke after a few uses.
Li-ion vs Lead-Acid While Li-ion batteries have a much power density (less weight (and volume)) their cost is significant and you need a PROPER charger ($$$) with a BMS. So the cost and complexity increases significantly.
Do you have any plans to use your skills to build a DIY ebike? I am sure you could put together something really cool, and I think this would be a great way to grow your channel given how much interest there is in ebikes these days
Heh, I used to think, "Why bother with a speed controller on a brushed DC motor when you can just change the voltage you send to them?" until I learned from other videos why PWM, even in brushed DC, somewhat counterintuitively to a lay person, is actually a lot more efficient!
Nice project. Cross member relocated is easier fix then jack shaft addition. Could L-R pairs of the batteries be placed end to end and fitted under raised seats; more evenly distribute their weight? Why pivot motor mount? Did you show it being installed? Lower COG cut off storage carrier. Thanks for the knowledge and entertainment. HAGO
Probably swap that back-axle out with one from a garden tractor. Change the oil seals, replace the grease with gear oil. They have 6-speed peerless transmission (AND reverse), limited slip differential. It should pop wheelies & do 60 after that.
Have you though about maybe placing the batteries under the seats. The spacing on the bearings for your gear reduction might be a little wide as it could possibly flex your shaft under high torque and spit your chain off. Nice build though 😊
I have been thinking about that. Great comment. I plan to calculate the bending load on the 1" shaft. If its too high, I will need to make a more elaborate fixture to hold the bearings closer together.
@@Jeremy_Fielding LOL.. I think Jeremy will have noticed the crystalline structure of the poor quality metal on the fracture. He's got to have studied properties of materials. I've enjoyed all his videos that I have watched.
Amazon has a 1800 watt brushless motor and controller. For $140 I'm thinking ebike! If it is 1800watts. It looks alot like the 1000watt brushed motor. 48v 1800 watts on a 25 lb bike maybe 50lbs with motor and liion batts. 14 1.5ah batts in series. Times 14 in a pack should go far. I'm no little guy. So I need power especially for the hills around here. I like that controller . was it a good deal?; I have forklift motors. I want to do something with. Maybe lamower. Or diy golfcart type thing! Nice job
1800 watt Ebike has speed, but gives up some in torque unless you can rig up gearing(impossible on hub motor) vpower(dot)hk has good LiFePo4 cells instead of bunk Li-ion...
I would certainly have gone with lipos and just done the project slower over time to make up for the cost. Having your kid next to your would be great!
I respect the fact that you do not overvalue recycled cells like a lot a bandwagoners are it simply doesn't make sense truly a poor short-term decision. I encourage you to couple any future project with Maxwell capacitors. God Bless
Super Capacitors will power this things for about.... 2 seconds. A very poor choice for high current high voltage high capacity requirements like this.
I like how you explain things thoroughly and in detail, without assuming the viewer already knows anything. That really increases my confidence *you* know what you're talking about and I can rely on what you say. Thanks!
I love you electronic and mechanical knowledge, also your professional approach to sharing this education is priceless..! Good work..!
Love your videos. One note that might help you with the 2awg wire crimping is to remember that the way the lugs bite it will hold much better if you put something in the Vice when you crimp it to prevent flattening the entire thing because the way they hold is by pinching one part of the cable while the furthest end is more flared and that’s what prevents it from pulling out. The problem with flattening the entire end is that if the entire cable is pinched the same it can eventually pull out. Maybe you won’t have any trouble with yours but just in case you do or they start coming loose hope this helps. You might could even take a full chisel and instead of just hitting it with a hammer alone use the chisel to secure it.
I really like your non technical approach . I learn so much just watching and listening to your straight forward explanations. Love hearing about your obstacles and how you resolved them. Thanks for taking the time to put these vids together!!
The data collection stuff at the end was the best and your justification of the value it has for us was pretty cool.
No technical errors Jeremy, just good factual info! Keep up the good work!
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The Man Who Broke a Vice. Respect. (Great vid as always mate.)
Without a cheater bar even!
Those who understand the term "unbreakable" to be a thrown gauntlet are my people. We are many. we are not always very bright. We can lift heavy things. I broke an anvil once. STRONG! like BULL!... SMART! like TRACTOR!
I have had a few vices and have severely broken every vice so far.
"Finally something works"!
We've all been there, hahahaha! 😂
Someone posted "what about using capacitors to cover your inrush load?" (paraphrased)
Had the same thought too but then i thought what about using an old school centrifugal clutch or variable speed torque drive to ease the initial take off. (Ease it on slowly)
Just a thought. Maybe even something as primitive as a manual engagement like on an edger. I'll review more of your vids to see if you already dialed it in (i might just be johnny come lately).
Your greatest virtue is inspiring the thoughts & ideas of others! Thank you SO much for that sir!
I like how the mistakes are added to the vid!
Most would not mention them
I had an electric car(Renault Lectric Leopard). It ran on 16 golfcart batteries. The speed controller was a relay switch that switched between 24 and 48 volts. I was hoping to make my own speed controller using a 555 timer, opamp and H bridge.. I never got to do it, but I hope all of those people out there will never stop being creative.. God Bless.
I had a stack of 3 12v sealed lead acid batteries and an elaborate series/parallel switch to go to 36 volt series for powering an amplifier and 12 volt for the charger I had. I had the trouble in that it would short under load because of the arcing within the switch itself. The capacitor in the amp drew quite a high current when going from 12 to 36 volt mode and I had to install an easy break in the circuit to avoid melting wires. What I really needed was a switchable power resistor to limit the inrush current. Also a fuse.
Super sweet build! In regard to having a passenger seat for one of your kids, have you considered splitting up the battery placement? It looks like you can put two forward and two back, therefore leaving some legroom in the middle. Put a little diy bench seat above the two back placed batteries and you'll be good to give your kids a thrill!
Hi Jeremy,
the flanged bearings you want to use look like normal ball bearings. There are a couple of serious problems with that. Most of them are meant for supporting loads perpendicular to axle (radial loads) even if they look very beefy they are very bad at handling axial loads. Depending on the type of ball bearing they can handle axial loads from 25% to 50% of their maximum radial load and unfortunately axial and radial loads add up (vector addition).
Another problem is alignment, shafts supported by two bearings and the center-lines of rotation of these bearings are not within 2-10 minutes of arc then large forces are exerted on the bearings that may destroy them. (unless they are self-aligning bearings)
All of the above problems are made worse by the fact the cart has no differential.
Your bearings are probably O.K. if you only want to drive a little bit faster than walking speed. If not the best case scenario is that you will have to replace the bearings regularly.
I would recommend using tapered roller bearings, they are build for that purpose and are a much safer and in the long run cheaper option.
Wow That was probably more than you ever wanted to know about bearings :) and sorry if that was a little long winded or sounded weird English is not my first language.
I really appreciate your videos! Thanks and good luck with your Kart.
I am pretty sure the are spherical bearings but I will double check. But they swivel and can handle misalignment. There isn't much axial load in this application in my opinion... as long as I am careful to align the sprockets with each other. I do plan to calculate the bending on the shaft as I am more worried about the distance between the bearings. But at 1" or about 25mm my larger motor at 10 hp shouldn't be a major problem. I will definitely check though.
You are probably right, I did a couple of rough calculations, assuming a total wight of 400kg (~880 lbs.) and a speed of 10 mph I got around 2-3 kN of centrifugal force for a 90° turn with 3m radius.
Then I used the SKF bearing calculator (webtools.skf.com/BearingCalc/selectProduct.action;jsessionid=0 ) to check the combined forces.
Well that was fun now I want to start a new project.
Keep up the good work.
😂 that is awesome!
I am pleased I found your, RUclips channel. I have been inspired to build a 2" x 72" sander/ grinder using a treadmill motor. Thanks for the Information, education, and the inspiration. Keep the vids coming.
Another great quality video. Really appreciate all your hard work, thanks Jeremy.
Harber Fright. The tool's you can afford at a price you can't trust.
Send the vise back. It should not break with hand turning. Maybe if you had a four foot bar on it, and putting your full body weight.
If it broke by hand cranking, you should return it without guilt. I would bet you something nice that you can repeat the job with the replacement and it will not fail.... just my 2 cents worth. Harbour freight replaces this type of thing no questions asked ! Oh, by the way I really like your videos, they have been a tremendous help, and source of inspiration and information in my quest for an electric bike, keep making these excellent videos !
Excellent videos and thanks for making these! One caveat with Life P04 batteries are that they hate cold weather. They are better suited for indoor or mild weather usage.
You can get solder slugs from places like O’Reilly auto parts for doing up big gauge wires, put one in the cable end hit it with some heat then shove the wire in.
solder slugs... I have never heard of that thank you.
I really appreciate you making all these videos so we can watch you build these electric cart motor thingies cuz I think it's pretty cool I wish I knew how to do it
I have been thinking about buying or making an electric go cart for a while. Can’t wait to see how this turns out.
HI jeremy u r such a good teacher. whenever u eplain what it is u r doing. Its very clear. Love the project u r working on, That a nice go cart,, Only sorry it didn't work with the half HP washer motor. U have inspired me to make a pepper grinder usind a washing machine motor,
You might want to get ahold of a PLC. That way you can use a 5volt controller and 60volt motors. You might also want to consider a smaller high torc motor to get you started and then use the larger motor to make you actually go.
Jeremy,you explained this video,very well,in lay mans terms,thank you for sharing........i subscribe and like all of your videos.
It's almost like he's voicing my thought patterns except much more fluidly than in my head, I sure like that.
Really enjoy your videos, and I enjoy tinkering with salvaged motors as well. I suggest you google "sledger cable crimp" and have a look see at a simple way to crimp terminals on large cable. It is a punch and die that you wham with a big hammer, makes quick work of crimping large connectors. Inexpensive too.
I will check it out
"I was pushing this with MANPOWER" 🤣 awesome!
I ground crimp notches in a small bolt cutter for crimping larger connectors. The bolt cutters were already chipped so I had nothing to lose with this mod. Works perfectly.
That is awesome. Wish I had this comment back before I bought a tool LOL. Thanks for the great suggestion. I think even if you bought a new one it would be cheaper and work well
Your videos are great. Short and to the point and well explained.
I'm curious why you didn't use solder on the terminals instead of crimping? I've purchased some for 00 gauge wire that was preloaded with solder. Just heat it up and shove the wire in. Nice and simple.
they're going to try that project I have the exact same go-kart looking for the motor now and the controller love the video
A cheap way to get your speed would be a bicycle computer from ebay easy fix .. I love the Videos , I owned a shop that worked on karts for years ans have done a bunch of mods on them . I have a suggestion for you if you have some fab skills and some welding ability you could mount all 4 batteries right behind the two seats by stretching the kart 16/18 inches . Build a tray so you can mount the sideways side by side . That solves your center of gravity issue and shortens the cables , and gives you a mid engine feel cause the weight is so low . Just box the frame extend the the shock mounts on the frame and brace and your back in business Your brakes are hydraulic just longer barke line and your good ! lol If you lived in Vegas i would hook you up lol O just make dual shock mounts so you can use two more cheap shocks like stock ones cheaper than quality shocks with the proper spring rate Just a suggestion Great Videos !
That unfortunately is more work than I want to put into this project. I went ahead and bought smaller batteries.
Don't write off Li-Ion/Li-Po because you are scared of it or don't understand it. It's VERY easy to make a battery pack using re-purpose 18650 or even new ones. I see you are running 48V. You could build a 14S6P pack which would weigh MAYBE 20lbs while providing 20+ amps continuous and 20 AH. I have built a 14S6P for around $120 total. There are DIY battery kits that are no solder set ups, just plug and play
My 48V/30Ah 14S6P pack weighs just over 10lbs. $120 sounds about right. I used generic cells so there was more room in the budget for a beefy bms.
I need at least 100 amps continuously for 30 minutes and up to 200 amps if I want to floor it. I understand how to make it. We all have different things we prefer to do. Soldering batteries is low on my list.
Soldering is at the bottom of my list, for certain. Fortunately, I have access to a spot welder! Unfortunately, I don't know of any method to get 200 amps out of a lead battery that doesn't weight 100+ lbs. Hopefully one of your other neighbors can help!
Samsung ICR 18650-22p Battery Module... 200amp continuous, more MAH than you would ever need and no soldering
He mentioned that those who want to can go with Lithium for reduced weight. He obviously understands the trade offs. There is no getting around the fact that lithium ion battery packs are more complex and expensive than lead acid batteries, assuming you compare fairly (new vs new of the same Wh capacity).
You are awesome. Thanks for explaining everything so well.
If those terminals are aluminum, then you need to apply an oxidation inhibitor (e.g. Noalox) to all connections or they will get hot over time and start a fire. It is more likely that the terminals are tinned copper.
adding a jack shaft when you could have easily notched that frame? And Ive had several of these spiderbox karts, and that weight of the batteries is maxing out the crappy suspension, time to upgrade those springs/shocks as well. Should be a fun toy once done!
I thought the same about the shocks--I've got the Yerf Dog kart a few notches down w/o the rear swingarm suspension and only the lower A arm up front and the stock shocks aren't gonna handle that weight very well. I also wondered about combining his direct drive setup with the original torque clutch--I know the motor has enough torque, but using a sprocket to multiply the input shaft speed on a 50-series Comet clutch should net a higher top speed and a smoother take off. I had been thinking about an electric conversion for mine, but I think keeping the original gas engine is just easier...
My batteries rest symmetrically in a pan, under the seat. They're also slightly rear of CM to help stability. Also front end alignment is dependent on mass distribution, especially at any appreciable speed. Negative camber can help around the corners with that much mass.
Great explanation, and good to have family back up it helps enourmously.
A large Mercury outboard starter an airplane prop and 72 volt atched to bumper of truck and rolled truck and blew trash all over my yard quiet a sight! Gonna be a bit fine cart!
Good stuff my friend…very helpful…as I am at the early stages of kart building for my grandson…thank you for the very helpful input..abs/ pops👨🏼🦳
I have a vise suggestion. Get a sovieth vise, made in the USSR. I'm not a fan of communism but i am a fan of older tools, that sweep the floor in performance compared to newer ones. You might have to do a little restoration but it's well worth it. Even the rust covered ones do better job, than the newer ones.
thanks for the video,
killer video.little kart is going to fly my friend.
be safe
What you need is a step up / step down voltage controller (can't remember exactly what it is called) the idea is to step up the voltage as the lead acid battery drains down keeping it at 13.8 volts. This enables you to get rid of 2 of the batteries losing 120 pounds. Add a solar panel to the top and you will increase your range even more. I believe with a little work a 160 watt panel would fit although you would want to start as far back as possible. Perhaps 2 100 watt panels could fit one in the rear the other in front. Even one would help alot. Keep in n mind if you decide to add this, that many (far too many) solar panels are very fragile, many without any protective glass on top so at least get some plexi-glass (with space to dissipate heat and for protection and keep it waxed for performance) for the top and some epoxy for the underside for strength.
That's a really nice go kart!
My pos had no suspension, the large gear was connected to the one drive wheel, almost as big as the tire, and the goddamn axle kept breaking it's weld (it was inserted into the frame, so it wouldn't break off entirely, but wouldn't be straight), so the chain would derail.
The only upside is it had a lot of torque to get up hills easily, so it was fairly slow top speed.
for battery lugs I drill a hole threw them and fill them with solder then heat shrink them it looks prettier
Looks like you have some more work on this fun project. Have a great week
man I just found your channel and love it. it the same stuff I'm playing around with all the time at home. love it, keep up the great work. pro tip. theres an easy way to attach th is e ends on your wires. is involves just using an low flame on a torch and filling the end with solder and then putting the cable in. the solder will wick up the wire and be solidly connected. we use this in car audio all the time and there are a couple examples on RUclips under some car audio channels. maybe good info for next time. love the channel so far 👍
I solder the wires as well but some claim it makes the joint weaker
Wow, u sir are a genius and you explain the project so well... Much respect sir!
I use a bench press to make my cables. You can get a 6 ton bench press from HF pretty affordably, and they work great for lots of things including cable crimps.
Unless you're a long term extreme bodybuilder... no, a vise that big should have held.
Another thing would be if you added more leverage somehow, but since you said you didn't, this means very much that the vise is at fault.
Agreed. I have 3 vise's and i put allot of force on them and have never broken one. I even use cheater bars with them now and then or hit the handles with a hammer even.
Lagger Onesixfour those POS, PRC vices are total junk...
It broke because he tightened it up and then HIT it. That's what snapped the shaft. However it's a POS and very small for hobby use only. Harbor Freight will replace it under warranty.
So every good workbench needs a good solid vice. The problem is that anything new is going to be made out of Chinesium steel (unless you want to pay big bucks). You should take back your Harbor Freight vise and should refund you your money) and use the money to buy an old America Vice for cheap on Craigslist, etc. Those old Vices are so well build they will last several lifetimes... Just look for one that has good jaws, hasn't been repaired (I.E: welded) and looks decent structurally, don't worry at all about the finish because if it looks crusty you can get them for cheap. They are super easy to clean up, throw a new paint job on and grease and then you will have a Vice that will last for the rest of your lifetime and then some. Some great old American Brands to look for are Wilton, Reed, Chas Parker, Starrett/Athol, Prentise, Morgan, etc, but if if was made in America, it will more be likely good. You should be able to find something for around $50 and once you clean it up they can be even be resold for sometimes up to $200 as they can be highly sought after depending on condition/make, etc... A little tip for you, you deserve a real vise... keep up the good work!
I plan to return it. It has been 80 days so I am just inside the return window LOL
*Atimatik Army* yep 90 days and you can return it...
I love my Chas Parker! I got it for $30 at a flea market. It’s a #44 and turns out to be super rare. The online database of all Chas Parker vises doesn’t even list it. I’m not sure if it is worth anything but I know it is a beast and will outlast me.
Good Find on the Chas Parker! I'm sure it's worth more than the $30 you paid for it!
*Atimatik Army* Ah an AVE subscriber. The Chinesium gave you away.
clean the inside of your lug then clamp the lug into a vise and heat with a torch then fill your lug with wire solder and insert the stripped wire and let cool. then you can reuse the lug if necessary in the future vs. crimping.
Hi. you can use that pressure clamp in your others videos, for those wires terminals; and slowly press and it is best if you can add tin solder, before placing insulation. Greetings !
I tell anyone don’t try to do any press work with vices …..as you know you get what you pay for in a vice. With that said even if I had a great vice I keep press work on the press and as far as crimping I would use a battery crimp tool before using a vice…don’t feel bad…..you are not the first victim of a harbor freight vice….. by the way love your vids.
how could you not do a follow up video to this!! (yes, I saw the cart go in that video) what motor did you use? speed controller? how did you rig the shaft and final sprocket? argggg!!! ;)
LOL... There was a short video that covered some of this stuff but I deleted it about a month ago while deleting some other non-build/non-teaching videos that were meant to be temporary. The motor I used (discovered through testing) was falsely advertised to have more power than it actually has... I didn't want people to see it without being able to explain that it is NOT what they say it is. If I do that in a separate video the wrong people will see it. I didn't want to support that manufacture. I know from emails and comments that people often buy things they see me use even if I don''t say I like it or talk about it.
You ripped the handle off your bench vice with your bare hands! Must all that wrenching parts out of random appliances? that is just another reason to be good to people cause you just never know whos capable of accidently snapping you in two with their vice breaking grip. All jokes aside i have learned and continue to learn so much from your videos, you explain things so concisely and clearly and give excellent examples of what you mean and everytime i wonder if an idea i have is good or practical or even possible it seems you have made a geeat video answering the exact thing i was wondering, thank you for all the hard work you do in sharing this knowledge with me and undoubtebly so many others aswell
Place one battery on the sliding frame of the drivers seat below your legs - two place inclined , as a back rest for the raised passenger seat that has the forth one below it (the batteries in an L form)- the central location will give good distribution of weight - passenger seat sitting a little forward of drivers -
May I suggest Headway LiFePO4 (lthium phisphate) batteries from Battery Hookup? They have different grades, including tested good with most capacity still remaining for cheap.
Lead acid chargers wor fine with these,, and you never have to limit current on these unless your charger can exceed 200 amps! Maximum discharge is 300A, so they are very low impedance.
They have bus bars for these, and even sell pre-made 24/48 volt batteries made using them. Along with other server and EV batteries that would probably suit, along with fuses,, high current contactirs, and BMS for LiPO and pouch cells that are a lot less robust than the Headway cells.
All at highly competitive prices.
NiCD batteries could be another option, they have a higher power density than lead acid. Unlike lead acid, you can abuse the heck out of NiCds. They can be shorted, drained to 0 volts, over charged or fast charged, and they keep on running. Lead acid, even deep cycle batteries shouldn;t be drained more than 50% capacity and have to be slow charged, usually over a 24 hour period. Only issue is trying to find them. I have some 12v NiCd packs that were used in emergency lighting, they have to be over 10 years old and they still work great. NiCds seem really under rated now a days.
ROFL - it would cost a fortune to build a NiCD pack with enough capacity for reasonable run time. But yes, they do have good current capacity, provided that they are designed for that (ie: Power Tool cells, not Emergency Lighting packs).
I'd say the documentation for that new controller is wrong, otherwise the specs on the label would match. I find that sort of thing happens sometimes with no-name products. Good info none the less. I'm building an electric dirt bike atm. 3kW drive system.
The documentation does match the controller. It has two "nominal settings" 60 and 72. But each one has a working range. and that is what I was referring to.
I've been selling high power controllers since 2005 and my educated guess is that your Curtis controller is going to test good when you send it back. If you have not done that yet try again at a minimum voltage of at least 60 volts, and source this power from good lead acid batteries that have all passed a load test. If you add a car battery to your 4 battery deep cycle pack, AND all the batteries can maintain 10+ volts under 100+ amp load, you will have enough power to charge the massive capacitors in the Curtis controller and it will work. Curtis is a long term industry leader in motor control, not a "no-name product" as James suggested. Alltrax motor controllers are also superior products and offer simple user friendly programming of things like min/max voltage, ramp-up rate, max current etc. The smaller controller that came with your motor is either a Curtis copy or a remanufactured Curtis and the case size puts it in the 100 to 175 amp range. Good luck, and remember to always respect the power (and dangers involved) with this much battery.
Already did exactly this. 5 “load tested” , fully charged batteries. I thought the same thing. I followed the troubleshooting guide in the manual. It failed test 4. The manual says faulty controller if test 4 fails. My new one has arrived and it works great.
Back in business is the good thing. I am still getting caught up on your videos and diversity of projects (bad-_ss band saw by the way), so I need more viewing time but there is a lot to learn when you go electric. I'm guessing by now you have got the "electric bug" and I'm sure it won't be long before you have the Curtis running at max voltage which will make for fun acceleration (at least until the brushes melt into the armature). ha ha keep up the good work.
Love your mindset in life, all good.
My Suggestion is. ...
You Can Use Those Lithium Batteries from Cordless Lawn Mowers , They Have
60 vlts. You can Fix 4 in Parallel. @ 60 amps. I'm guessing.?.
best way for this is to buy non working packs off ebay, generally one cell dies or a wire burns out in the pack and you still get 3 good cells for cheap.
Great series of videos. I am a neophyte at projects such as this. One basic thing that I don’t understand. Why do you need a speed controller? Why can’t you simply use a potentiometer to control the speed of the motor? Dumb question I know, but if anyone knows the answer please post.
💪Hulk CRIMP! Thanks for the info, very helpful. Love your explanations.
Guangzhou Charlie strikes again! Failure Mode: Chinesium Alloy
Since you like to repurpose thinks. Look for some old Prius or Leaf NiMH batteries. You can buy the whole battery pack or just the individual cells for cheap. I believe each cell is 7.6 volts. Just connect in series until you get the voltage you want. Not as good as Lithium but way lighter than lead. Thanks for sharing.
great content Jeremy. I love your channel!!
May want to do some rough math on the cg. Mounting 240lbs behind your head, with your weight in the seat - it may not be as bad as you think in terms of cg. Recall that it's your roll center (driven by your suspension geometry, easy to estimate based on your suspension type) and the moment arm created by your cg. If you're doing a 1g or 2g turn, does the roll over moment exceed the weight pulling you down... It may be the case that some cg from roll actually let's the car feel more "fun" without becoming a safety concern - and you have room for your little ones.
Moving the motor towards the pivot of your chassis, you could also put your jackshaft in board, mounting it in the length of the swing arm. It looks like your chain is really beefy too, you could also step that down to support smaller drive gears (though not a hell of a lot smaller) but at least get better wrap on the shaft. Also - your rear sprocket as is might be your first mechanical fuse, teeth are looking a little thin.
Finally, don't forget you'll need a way to tension the chains - especially new they will stretch with use. Awesome channel though, really appreciate the teachings - helps me keep the smoke IN the wires!!
If you ever need a wiring diagram for industrial electric carts, I can send you some. I deal with curtis controllers a lot at work and they are fairly easy to wire right and wrong if not paying attention.
Another alternative would be to place the batteries across the back of the seating area from one side to the other, posdibly creating a bench style seat/platform w/cushion atop the battery bank.
Hi Jeremy, I was wondering if you can recommend any reliable 48v 2hp dc motors that I can purchase to make a scooter. It would have to work with standard bike controllers. I see alot of vevor Chinese motors but I really like known names like baldor or person, but those guys make 90v and 24v.
Thank you very much. I really learn a lot from your videos.
What about used NiMH Prius modules? These batteries can be had for relatively inexpensive and have semi modular construction. Moderate weight savings over Lead Acid batteries and can be wired for all sorts of voltages.
yea I was wondering why you didnt di lithium batteries .... good to know you covered that part
I love your work. Very inspiring.
Its not you jeremy,its the harbor freight china junk :) nice project btw!
super capacitors my friend lighten it right up ! I lost a comment to the ads about my bike ni got wear and tear on the motor a gas one .... yeah sorry but I need to drive it everywhere m but I wanted bto kow if ya could do more on gearing and Jack shaft l final output gears I am running belt drive as it slips the belt slightly to get it in it's seemingly correct power band it needs but as theoror wears how does one compensate for lower end with only a little sacrifice on top speed nite too fast anyway lol great teacher you are in all aspects of life ! we are very much the same breed indeed and yeah never ever buy a cheapo vise lol cheap pot metal boat anchors more like it ! aces out keep up that stye!
Placing batteries high behind would make cart wheelie😁.
The vice broke due to material quality issue.
LTO BATTERY will be perfect...there expensive..but are awesome...
Agreed (with Lagger Onesixfour), & material selection is often to blame (its built to a price-point: cheap design). What I’ve seen do this most often is cast aluminum, esp’ly where it’s implemented in any high-shear application, or as AVE would say, where the 200lb gorilla meets the load. I once (and anyone could do this as a party trick btw, impress the wife if need be) sheared the handle off an ‘all metal’ garlic press. (Pressing garlic of course, but the garlic was tougher. One tough clove & she buckled)
Four new, fully charged lead acid batteries in series is about 53 volts. With any age, discharge, and/or load, that's going to drop. The Curtis rating of 48 volts is obviously out of spec - they expect most of their units will work that low, but some may not, so the low end voltage tolerance is going to vary. Add any voltage drop from the batteries and possibly wires and connectors, and the voltage it gets might be too low.
Jeremy F-Most of the motor controllers break, when you switch them crosswise on reverse. what you need is a controller with two controllers inside. so that the relais switch from one contoller to the other one. otherwise the device will quit the job .
I´m building an e-gocart for my kids since two weeks now. I am using a car steering assistent motor with a worm gear. The controller is a chinese with 40 amps and 10-50volts. it has two controllers inside. I can run the motor with 24v.
Why don´t you use a truck generator, cabled as a motor? It should be very strong and you only need 24 V or 36V.
You could build an extension in the body of the cart just behind the seat and before the springs for the batteries.
10:58 there are such things like those connects but they have soder in them and just need to be heated up would save time and money
Congratulation Jeremy very good video. Hello from Bogota Colombia
Hey, great videos. Thank you!!
Ut is a cheap vice. Ihave the same one and I used a pipe to get more leverage (cheater?) and the steel shaft broke after a few uses.
That's the biggest issue with large electric cars. The weight you hauling uses half the energy you get from them.
Li-ion vs Lead-Acid
While Li-ion batteries have a much power density (less weight (and volume)) their cost is significant and you need a PROPER charger ($$$) with a BMS. So the cost and complexity increases significantly.
Did you ever think about incorporating a cvt transmission from the scooter onto the go cart?
Do you have any plans to use your skills to build a DIY ebike? I am sure you could put together something really cool, and I think this would be a great way to grow your channel given how much interest there is in ebikes these days
Heh, I used to think, "Why bother with a speed controller on a brushed DC motor when you can just change the voltage you send to them?" until I learned from other videos why PWM, even in brushed DC, somewhat counterintuitively to a lay person, is actually a lot more efficient!
Well done Jeremy! I Keep on making the videos!
This is very nice project.
Nice project. Cross member relocated is easier fix then jack shaft addition. Could L-R pairs of the batteries be placed end to end and fitted under raised seats; more evenly distribute their weight? Why pivot motor mount? Did you show it being installed? Lower COG cut off storage carrier. Thanks for the knowledge and entertainment. HAGO
Probably swap that back-axle out with one from a garden tractor. Change the oil seals, replace the grease with gear oil. They have 6-speed peerless transmission (AND reverse), limited slip differential. It should pop wheelies & do 60 after that.
Well. I prefer gas. Easier to build, Instant refill and lots of milage + the beautiful sound of a 4 stroke. Thats my opinion though
beautiful sound of a single cylinder scooter engine?
Have you though about maybe placing the batteries under the seats. The spacing on the bearings for your gear reduction might be a little wide as it could possibly flex your shaft under high torque and spit your chain off. Nice build though 😊
I have been thinking about that. Great comment. I plan to calculate the bending load on the 1" shaft. If its too high, I will need to make a more elaborate fixture to hold the bearings closer together.
I think you broke your vice because you are super strong!
😂
@@Jeremy_Fielding LOL.. I think Jeremy will have noticed the crystalline structure of the poor quality metal on the fracture. He's got to have studied properties of materials. I've enjoyed all his videos that I have watched.
Amazon has a 1800 watt brushless motor and controller. For $140 I'm thinking ebike! If it is 1800watts. It looks alot like the 1000watt brushed motor. 48v 1800 watts on a 25 lb bike maybe 50lbs with motor and liion batts. 14 1.5ah batts in series. Times 14 in a pack should go far. I'm no little guy. So I need power especially for the hills around here. I like that controller . was it a good deal?; I have forklift motors. I want to do something with. Maybe lamower. Or diy golfcart type thing! Nice job
1800 watt Ebike has speed, but gives up some in torque unless you can rig up gearing(impossible on hub motor)
vpower(dot)hk has good LiFePo4 cells instead of bunk Li-ion...
I would certainly have gone with lipos and just done the project slower over time to make up for the cost. Having your kid next to your would be great!
@Jeff Kopis Lithium ion polymer batteries.
I respect the fact that you do not overvalue recycled cells like a lot a bandwagoners are it simply doesn't make sense truly a poor short-term decision. I encourage you to couple any future project with Maxwell capacitors. God Bless
Super Capacitors will power this things for about.... 2 seconds. A very poor choice for high current high voltage high capacity requirements like this.
Well explained bro, keep up
I got that same vice. Works fine.