Great video, thank you! For dogs who tend to be aggressive or pushy - which are many I work with -I prefer to train the OUT or DROP command, then release with BREAK command to engage in play again. For building drive in the dog I will stop playing while the dog still wants to play- before it looses interest.
Of course I teach both out and drop at some point if the dog is driven enough. I have two mals + work with a lot of IGP dogs, so it is absolutely an important skill to have. However I don't think it is essential for dogs with weak drive. People very often create conflict and get in trouble because of it, so I just wanted to show some ways around it.
@@Pulsardogtraining see my reply on out/drop above. And no, I don't think switching between food to toy and back causes resource guarding. I have been doing it for at least a decade with a whole bunch of different dogs, and if anything, it is the opposite, because the action you create is more valuable than the item itself.
For Russia. Перетяжки: 5 самых распространенных ошибок 1. Неправильный выбор игрушки Неправильно: маленькая, твердая, неприятный материал Правильно: большая, мягкая, легко сдавливаемая 2. Слишком короткая 0:36 Собака неуверенно хватает игрушку, т.к. мало места, чтобы схватить зубами. 0:44 Собака может случайно прикусить вас, и ваша реакция погасит настрой. Ой! Больно! 1:02 Если игрушка слишком короткая, вам приходится нависать над собакой. 1:11 Постоянное нависание создает давление на собаку, и не все собаки хорошо с этим справляются. 1:18 Из-за давления собака отпускает игрушку. 1:28 С короткой игрушкой передние лапы собаки почти все время находятся в воздухе, и это лишает их возможности контролировать ситуацию. Такая игра не нравится собакам. Решения: • Используйте игрушку на длинной веревке • Играйте, сидя на полу 3. Кролик-самоубийца Ни один кролик не сидит и не ждет, пока собака к нему подбежит, чтобы потом радостно прыгнуть ей в пасть. Решения Пусть игрушка быстро убегает от собаки, а собака быстро догоняет, пока не схватит. Чем быстрее собака за ней погонится, чем дольше будет преследовать, тем сильнее хват. 4. Трясти, мотать, потом отпустить Собаке не дают возможности контролировать игру Неприятные перетяжки: собака хочет одна владеть игрушкой Решения: Правильные перетяжки - это обмен энергией. Суть в том, чтобы постоянно поддерживать натяжение в игрушке, а не давить все время на собаку. Необходимо правильно рассчитывать силу и время от времени давать собаке контролировать игру. Как создавать давление: • Взглядом на собаку • Притягивать собаку игрушкой ближе к себе • Наклоняться над собакой • Касаться собаки • Трясти игрушку 3:18 Подтянув собаку ближе к себе, смотреть на нее 3:26 Касаться собаки Как ослабить давление: • Отвести взгляд от собаки • Завести собаку себе за спину или стать так, чтобы она оказалась сбоку • Разрешить собаке увеличить расстояние, чтобы веревка потихоньку выскальзывала из руки, когда собака тянет 3:49 Отводим собаку так, чтобы она оказалась сбоку 3:58 Даем игрушке проскользнуть в руке 4:13 Перетяжки, которые нравятся: собака просит еще 5. Неправильное завершение игры 4:31 Отъем игрушки силой 4:38 Вытягивание игрушки вверх 4:45 Попытки открыть собаке пасть 4:51 Попытки обменять игрушку на еду, когда еда не представляет равного интереса Решения Обмен игрушки на еду: • Сделайте его динамичным, чтобы собаке было весело, и заберите игрушку, пока собака не видит Две игрушки: • Дайте собаке победить, держите при себе запасную игрушку, чтобы веселье не прекращалось Перевод Лариса Северьянова. Спасибо ей огромное за труд.
One of the best videos I have seen on this subject, I really like the use of different dogs, as a trainer I come across all sorts of issues with this subject matter. The most difficult one I have in is a GSD who once he has the toy, he comes back stops about 6ft out . He then drops the toy but if you take one step towards him he picks it up again, doesn't run off with it. I usually walk up to most dogs like this and drop loads of treats and walk away so as to be no threat but you can throw a whole box of liveror anything around this one and he takes no notice of it :(
Toy to food exchange works better if the dog is conditioned to play with food. I usually use very big pieces and throw them as I would throw balls, one in one direction, one in the other, hurrying the dog to run from one to another. They take it as a game and find it easier to switch from game to game vs from toy to food. However there is another thing that works miracles with such dogs. In combination with above/second toy or even just what I am about to describe. The secret is - chase him first. :) Not as an owner trying to take a toy from him, but playfully, like you are a goofy dog. Chase him until you see he is actually playing, enjoying himself, not just trying to protect the toy. Than suddenly turn around and run in the opposite direction. Usually I start a chase with a new toy or I would throw food once I am sure the dog follows. At first they are still cautious and stay at a safe distance. But gradually they keep coming closer. When they do I pretend like I don't want the toy and turn away, sometimes even push the dog away. It makes them want to give it to me so badly. :) It is not an overnight solution, but it works great if you are stubborn enough. :) Overall I find it a lot easier to play with dogs if I don't force my own ideas on them all the time - if I just accept their idea first, it is much easier to turn the table around when you want to. :)
@@agimanics That is very useful, the food throwing, but it wouldn't work with Oz I'm afraid. he has never been interested in food, we have tried all sorts. If anything is thrown that he is interested in he always picks up the toy that is between his legs. to run after another toy. He is 11 years old now and has never been a dog to run around just for the sake of it, he is a GSD . We thought we had a result with beefburgers but it didn't last. Liver cake is no different. we have tried toys that are the same and ones that are very different.
SUCH A GREAT VIDEO.I've learnt these slowly over the last 3 years, wish I had seen something like this at the start :) Also this is me lying on the floor all the time to play .....
Brilliant video, thank-you! My dog LOVES to tug, but it does sometimes feel slightly out of control, like we're playing different games with the same toy. She's very small, so I'll get some bigger and softer toys. She's very comfortable in my space normally, but I can see that it's probably too intense for her to have to be so close to me during these games.
If I let my dog win the toy, she won't come back with it to me. Just pisses off with it. I can try running away backwards from her, trying to lure and entice her to me, have another toy... No matter what. She won't come back with the toy. If I put her on the long line and drag her back to me and take it, she becomes possessive because I want to take it from her. Any tips?
I always train leave it command with food and a leash, so I’ll throw a piece of food on the ground let my dog get close to it but not close enough where they can grab it, once the dog stops looking at the food on the ground and looking back at me I mark and reward. Don’t let the dog eat the “leave it” food off the ground pick it up before he can get to it.
My dog likes tug the problem is, He doesn’t actually tug, when I stop, even when I encourage the pulling he gives it up, the only way I get him interested in it is if I pull and tug, if that makes sense. how can I fix this?
Probably your pup had no previous experience with toys and it is also hard for shy dogs to really let themselves go and enjoy without feeling worried or uncomfortable "stealing" your things. There are no quick fixes here, lots of work, starting with food games and gradually building up towards toys. Keeping things light and not personal - food throws and food/toy on a whip, so there is not too much personal interaction at first. I have an online class that focuses exactly on that subject - you can check it out here: polonabonac.com/?page_id=4467. It is really too much to explain in one comment + every dog is a different individual, so I can help the most if I get to know the team. :)
@@agimanics I learned from my dog what she wanted. A Greek street dog she had only played tug with sticks with other dogs. So I watched and learned. I bought a long tug and haven't looked back. She still likes to chase with other dogs but the sticks have gone.
great video ! really good points and things I little things I should be aware of when working with my softer dog. however, I disagree about 'suicidal bunny' point... two of my dogs LOVE and turn on when the toy 'comes at them'. They are much more engaged if that is how the play starts. and I agree that having two toys is a great way to keep the game going although that does not work with all dogs and is a trained skill IMO :o)
There is always an exception in every rule. ;) Starting by pushing the toy into the dog might turn on the "fighters", dogs that prefer to have a little battle than chase something. Those are the dogs that will always think the toy is the most interesting if someone else wants it too. :) So it works great for some of my dogs as well, but as a general rule, dogs usually respond better if the tug starts with a chase. But there is a catch to it, some people "annoy" the dog into playing by pushing and poking the dog with the toy. It might give an instant positive reaction, but it doesn't end up well in a long run. The dog should never be provoked to play IMO. (Not saying this is the case with your dogs, just an observation on all kinds of problems I see on the field.) And about the other point - I absolutely agree it is a trained skill, but most playing skills can be trained. No it might not work the first time, but I managed to teach any dog to switch so far. The key is persistence and two identical toys and none of them should be squeaking. :)
@@lindasanders8132 Because squeaking is very self-rewarding (almost a little bit addictive for some), so the dog might prefer to just chew and make noise than actively tug - but that can be avoided with proper playing. Where it gets difficult is after they win. Some dogs just love to take the toy somwhere and squeeze it until the squeaker dies. :D It breaks the flow of the game and makes retrieves difficult. However not all dogs are obsessed with it and I will certainly use it with dogs that have very mellow toy drive or need additional stimulation for interacting with toys.
You can end the game also to let the dog misses two times when trying to get the toy. and put the toy away. then the game is going on next time for him.
Love this video! I share it a lot with my students or friends whom are new puppy owners.
tried it and loved it, my very first pleasant time to play tug and war with my husky in 4 years, thank you so much for the video
So good. Amazing how important this is in developing a great relationship with you dog.
Great video, thank you!
For dogs who tend to be aggressive or pushy - which are many I work with -I prefer to train the OUT or DROP command, then release with BREAK command to engage in play again. For building drive in the dog I will stop playing while the dog still wants to play- before it looses interest.
canislps completely agree! I was thinking the exchange of food for toy might cause resource guarding
Of course I teach both out and drop at some point if the dog is driven enough. I have two mals + work with a lot of IGP dogs, so it is absolutely an important skill to have. However I don't think it is essential for dogs with weak drive. People very often create conflict and get in trouble because of it, so I just wanted to show some ways around it.
@@Pulsardogtraining see my reply on out/drop above. And no, I don't think switching between food to toy and back causes resource guarding. I have been doing it for at least a decade with a whole bunch of different dogs, and if anything, it is the opposite, because the action you create is more valuable than the item itself.
Well collected and explained! Thank you for sharing!
This is fabulous, thank you so very much for sharing.
For Russia.
Перетяжки: 5 самых распространенных ошибок
1. Неправильный выбор игрушки
Неправильно: маленькая, твердая, неприятный материал
Правильно: большая, мягкая, легко сдавливаемая
2. Слишком короткая
0:36 Собака неуверенно хватает игрушку, т.к. мало места, чтобы схватить зубами.
0:44 Собака может случайно прикусить вас, и ваша реакция погасит настрой. Ой! Больно!
1:02 Если игрушка слишком короткая, вам приходится нависать над собакой.
1:11 Постоянное нависание создает давление на собаку, и не все собаки хорошо с этим справляются.
1:18 Из-за давления собака отпускает игрушку.
1:28 С короткой игрушкой передние лапы собаки почти все время находятся в воздухе, и это лишает их возможности контролировать ситуацию. Такая игра не нравится собакам.
Решения:
• Используйте игрушку на длинной веревке
• Играйте, сидя на полу
3. Кролик-самоубийца
Ни один кролик не сидит и не ждет, пока собака к нему подбежит, чтобы потом радостно прыгнуть ей в пасть.
Решения
Пусть игрушка быстро убегает от собаки, а собака быстро догоняет, пока не схватит. Чем быстрее собака за ней погонится, чем дольше будет преследовать, тем сильнее хват.
4. Трясти, мотать, потом отпустить
Собаке не дают возможности контролировать игру
Неприятные перетяжки: собака хочет одна владеть игрушкой
Решения:
Правильные перетяжки - это обмен энергией. Суть в том, чтобы постоянно поддерживать натяжение в игрушке, а не давить все время на собаку.
Необходимо правильно рассчитывать силу и время от времени давать собаке контролировать игру.
Как создавать давление:
• Взглядом на собаку
• Притягивать собаку игрушкой ближе к себе
• Наклоняться над собакой
• Касаться собаки
• Трясти игрушку
3:18 Подтянув собаку ближе к себе, смотреть на нее
3:26 Касаться собаки
Как ослабить давление:
• Отвести взгляд от собаки
• Завести собаку себе за спину или стать так, чтобы она оказалась сбоку
• Разрешить собаке увеличить расстояние, чтобы веревка потихоньку выскальзывала из руки, когда собака тянет
3:49 Отводим собаку так, чтобы она оказалась сбоку
3:58 Даем игрушке проскользнуть в руке
4:13 Перетяжки, которые нравятся: собака просит еще
5. Неправильное завершение игры
4:31 Отъем игрушки силой
4:38 Вытягивание игрушки вверх
4:45 Попытки открыть собаке пасть
4:51 Попытки обменять игрушку на еду, когда еда не представляет равного интереса
Решения
Обмен игрушки на еду:
• Сделайте его динамичным, чтобы собаке было весело, и заберите игрушку, пока собака не видит
Две игрушки:
• Дайте собаке победить, держите при себе запасную игрушку, чтобы веселье не прекращалось
Перевод Лариса Северьянова. Спасибо ей огромное за труд.
One of the best videos I have seen on this subject, I really like the use of different dogs, as a trainer I come across all sorts of issues with this subject matter. The most difficult one I have in is a GSD who once he has the toy, he comes back stops about 6ft out . He then drops the toy but if you take one step towards him he picks it up again, doesn't run off with it. I usually walk up to most dogs like this and drop loads of treats and walk away so as to be no threat but you can throw a whole box of liveror anything around this one and he takes no notice of it :(
Toy to food exchange works better if the dog is conditioned to play with food. I usually use very big pieces and throw them as I would throw balls, one in one direction, one in the other, hurrying the dog to run from one to another. They take it as a game and find it easier to switch from game to game vs from toy to food. However there is another thing that works miracles with such dogs. In combination with above/second toy or even just what I am about to describe. The secret is - chase him first. :) Not as an owner trying to take a toy from him, but playfully, like you are a goofy dog. Chase him until you see he is actually playing, enjoying himself, not just trying to protect the toy. Than suddenly turn around and run in the opposite direction. Usually I start a chase with a new toy or I would throw food once I am sure the dog follows. At first they are still cautious and stay at a safe distance. But gradually they keep coming closer. When they do I pretend like I don't want the toy and turn away, sometimes even push the dog away. It makes them want to give it to me so badly. :) It is not an overnight solution, but it works great if you are stubborn enough. :) Overall I find it a lot easier to play with dogs if I don't force my own ideas on them all the time - if I just accept their idea first, it is much easier to turn the table around when you want to. :)
@@agimanics That is very useful, the food throwing, but it wouldn't work with Oz I'm afraid. he has never been interested in food, we have tried all sorts. If anything is thrown that he is interested in he always picks up the toy that is between his legs. to run after another toy. He is 11 years old now and has never been a dog to run around just for the sake of it, he is a GSD . We thought we had a result with beefburgers but it didn't last. Liver cake is no different. we have tried toys that are the same and ones that are very different.
Uau!!! I did 5 points!!! Thank you so much for this amazing video. It is really very well explained. Today I start doing the right training...
Nice video Polona! Congrats!
SUCH A GREAT VIDEO.I've learnt these slowly over the last 3 years, wish I had seen something like this at the start :) Also this is me lying on the floor all the time to play .....
Brilliant video, thank-you! My dog LOVES to tug, but it does sometimes feel slightly out of control, like we're playing different games with the same toy. She's very small, so I'll get some bigger and softer toys. She's very comfortable in my space normally, but I can see that it's probably too intense for her to have to be so close to me during these games.
this is so helpful, thank you
Excellent! Very inspiring ❣️
Very nicely explained!
Well I’m doing a few of the wrong for sure lol makes sense hahaha gonna be switching it up big time and making this more fun for my pup
Excellent video. Seems I'm at least doing one thing right.
We enjoyed watching well.👏👏👏
Share this video.
Thank you.
If I let my dog win the toy, she won't come back with it to me. Just pisses off with it. I can try running away backwards from her, trying to lure and entice her to me, have another toy... No matter what. She won't come back with the toy. If I put her on the long line and drag her back to me and take it, she becomes possessive because I want to take it from her. Any tips?
Very nice video! Thank you!
Hello. Your video is awesome! Please tell me if I can use it in my lecture about dogs play?
Sorry for the late reply. Yes, of course! :)
Great video!
fantastic video
Very nice video
Where can I get the white suicidal bunny with the long purple handle? My dog would love that!
Floramicato: facebook.com/floramicato :)
Those toys look like so much fun! Where do you get them from?
Floramicato: facebook.com/floramicato/ :)
What do you use for "treats" when training a dog?
This is excellent.
Based off one of your solutions, do you think when teaching my dog the "leave it" command using tugging, that I shouldn't do the treat exchange?
I always train leave it command with food and a leash, so I’ll throw a piece of food on the ground let my dog get close to it but not close enough where they can grab it, once the dog stops looking at the food on the ground and looking back at me I mark and reward. Don’t let the dog eat the “leave it” food off the ground pick it up before he can get to it.
What brand of tug toys do you recommend?
I'm looking on Amazon and I can't seem to find anything like them.
Those exact ones are from Floramicato. You can find them on Facebook. facebook.com/floramicato/ They ship all over the world.
My dog likes tug the problem is, He doesn’t actually tug, when I stop, even when I encourage the pulling he gives it up, the only way I get him interested in it is if I pull and tug, if that makes sense. how can I fix this?
It’s possible to know where do the video toys or company names come from?
All toys come from Floramicato: facebook.com/floramicato/ , www.floramicato.com/ . :)
I need help, when i let go the toy, my dog just goes away and hides under the table with his toy... what do i do.
how to make shy dog want to play tug?my dog rescue from shelter,and he doesnt interesting on toy,i wish he can happy and want to play
Probably your pup had no previous experience with toys and it is also hard for shy dogs to really let themselves go and enjoy without feeling worried or uncomfortable "stealing" your things. There are no quick fixes here, lots of work, starting with food games and gradually building up towards toys. Keeping things light and not personal - food throws and food/toy on a whip, so there is not too much personal interaction at first. I have an online class that focuses exactly on that subject - you can check it out here: polonabonac.com/?page_id=4467. It is really too much to explain in one comment + every dog is a different individual, so I can help the most if I get to know the team. :)
@@agimanics I learned from my dog what she wanted. A Greek street dog she had only played tug with sticks with other dogs. So I watched and learned. I bought a long tug and haven't looked back. She still likes to chase with other dogs but the sticks have gone.
What brand are the fluffy tugs on the bungee?
Floramicato: facebook.com/floramicato :)
Thnx
Whats the fluffy ball toy brand ??
All the toys on the video are from Floramicato: facebook.com/floramicato
great video ! really good points and things I little things I should be aware of when working with my softer dog. however, I disagree about 'suicidal bunny' point... two of my dogs LOVE and turn on when the toy 'comes at them'. They are much more engaged if that is how the play starts. and I agree that having two toys is a great way to keep the game going although that does not work with all dogs and is a trained skill IMO :o)
There is always an exception in every rule. ;) Starting by pushing the toy into the dog might turn on the "fighters", dogs that prefer to have a little battle than chase something. Those are the dogs that will always think the toy is the most interesting if someone else wants it too. :) So it works great for some of my dogs as well, but as a general rule, dogs usually respond better if the tug starts with a chase. But there is a catch to it, some people "annoy" the dog into playing by pushing and poking the dog with the toy. It might give an instant positive reaction, but it doesn't end up well in a long run. The dog should never be provoked to play IMO. (Not saying this is the case with your dogs, just an observation on all kinds of problems I see on the field.)
And about the other point - I absolutely agree it is a trained skill, but most playing skills can be trained. No it might not work the first time, but I managed to teach any dog to switch so far. The key is persistence and two identical toys and none of them should be squeaking. :)
You are a fine trainer!
@@agimanics Why do you not want them to squeak?
@@lindasanders8132 Because squeaking is very self-rewarding (almost a little bit addictive for some), so the dog might prefer to just chew and make noise than actively tug - but that can be avoided with proper playing. Where it gets difficult is after they win. Some dogs just love to take the toy somwhere and squeeze it until the squeaker dies. :D It breaks the flow of the game and makes retrieves difficult. However not all dogs are obsessed with it and I will certainly use it with dogs that have very mellow toy drive or need additional stimulation for interacting with toys.
@@agimanics Thank you for the detailed response!
This is great for some breeds but none of this applies to my Dutch Shepherd
Don't we want to teach the dog to let go?
Yes, but you need the dog to LOVE to bite and bring it back first, and that is not always the case, especially with some breeds.
You can end the game also to let the dog misses two times when trying to get the toy. and put the toy away. then the game is going on next time for him.
Excellent. But no….not the jumping up on game. its got to be a sit