That is a siphon affect. the soil siphons the water out so you need some kind of break in the soil like rocks or cement. You can do the same thing with a sock. Put a sock in a bucket of water and hang one end out of the bucket, the sock will siphon the water up out of the bucket. I have used that to drain water from an area where it collects while raining into a bucket while it is still raining to collect rain water. For example, I have a table on my porch rain water drips onto so I put an old sock in the lowest point on the table top where the water tends to collect with the other end running over the edge of the table into a bucket and it automatically drains the water off of the table into the bucket for using later.
Every pond should have some kind of method of oxygenation, or it will turn into a mosquito breeding ground. Mosquito fish can help, but only if there is O2 in the pond. You can get a fairly cheap solar water splasher off amazon called a water wiggler. Or of course you can get a pond pump, and make a small waterfall. Another thing, never have exposed liner. The UV will destroy it. There should never be visible liner. If you want to avoid adsorption (that siphon/wicking effect) all you need is rock and gravel border on the inside of the pond. Then route water capture from a roof into a reed bed, then have it overflow into this pond. The reeds will filter the water, and thus have constant fresh water cycling into the pond. Then design in an overflow section, such that in large rainfall events, your overflow is directed to a small swale then towards fruit trees or gardens. That water is excellent source of nutrient, especially if the water is kept aerobic, to promote healthy bacteria, not anaerobic pathogens. Forgive me for pointing people to another channel, but a really really good source on proper pond design is "Ed the Pond Professor", and "Greg Wittstock the pond guy". Last thing, ponds should have 3 main sections: 1) aerobic tumbling zone (waterfall) 2) deep zone for O2 storage (O2 storage is based off depth and temp, so a deep zone is crucial) 3) shallow phototrophic layer, with filtering plants. Every pond can be improved with these 3 sections if they dont have it. Also, every pond should have a bottom of small rocks, ti have a large surface area to breed beneficial bacteria. These will pull nitrogen out of the water, to prevent algae. Having a mud bottom will create anaerobic zones and provide methane, which is 30x worse than CO2 as a greenhouse gas. I hope you take all this advice in the best possible way. A pond designed without oxygenation (such as the one in this video) will be a mosquito and methane production factory.
Submerged vegetation provides more than enough oxygen for a pond, there is absolutely no need for a mechanical pump unless your pond hosts large numbers of livestock fish or waterfowl. Once the plants have settled the pond will become an unfavorable environment for mosquitoes, who only breed in isolated environments where no ecosystem or predation can take place. A heavily planted pond attracts large numbers of predatory insects and amphibians, the most effective deterrent for mosquitoes.
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That is a siphon affect. the soil siphons the water out so you need some kind of break in the soil like rocks or cement. You can do the same thing with a sock. Put a sock in a bucket of water and hang one end out of the bucket, the sock will siphon the water up out of the bucket. I have used that to drain water from an area where it collects while raining into a bucket while it is still raining to collect rain water.
For example, I have a table on my porch rain water drips onto so I put an old sock in the lowest point on the table top where the water tends to collect with the other end running over the edge of the table into a bucket and it automatically drains the water off of the table into the bucket for using later.
Yes it is the siphon effect. Rocks and cement won't stop it if the liner is not high enough above the water line.
wicking, capillary action from the soil
note 3 1/2 min in sponging or wicking in planting
Every pond should have some kind of method of oxygenation, or it will turn into a mosquito breeding ground. Mosquito fish can help, but only if there is O2 in the pond.
You can get a fairly cheap solar water splasher off amazon called a water wiggler. Or of course you can get a pond pump, and make a small waterfall.
Another thing, never have exposed liner. The UV will destroy it. There should never be visible liner. If you want to avoid adsorption (that siphon/wicking effect) all you need is rock and gravel border on the inside of the pond.
Then route water capture from a roof into a reed bed, then have it overflow into this pond. The reeds will filter the water, and thus have constant fresh water cycling into the pond.
Then design in an overflow section, such that in large rainfall events, your overflow is directed to a small swale then towards fruit trees or gardens. That water is excellent source of nutrient, especially if the water is kept aerobic, to promote healthy bacteria, not anaerobic pathogens.
Forgive me for pointing people to another channel, but a really really good source on proper pond design is "Ed the Pond Professor", and "Greg Wittstock the pond guy".
Last thing, ponds should have 3 main sections:
1) aerobic tumbling zone (waterfall)
2) deep zone for O2 storage (O2 storage is based off depth and temp, so a deep zone is crucial)
3) shallow phototrophic layer, with filtering plants.
Every pond can be improved with these 3 sections if they dont have it.
Also, every pond should have a bottom of small rocks, ti have a large surface area to breed beneficial bacteria. These will pull nitrogen out of the water, to prevent algae.
Having a mud bottom will create anaerobic zones and provide methane, which is 30x worse than CO2 as a greenhouse gas.
I hope you take all this advice in the best possible way. A pond designed without oxygenation (such as the one in this video) will be a mosquito and methane production factory.
Submerged vegetation provides more than enough oxygen for a pond, there is absolutely no need for a mechanical pump unless your pond hosts large numbers of livestock fish or waterfowl.
Once the plants have settled the pond will become an unfavorable environment for mosquitoes, who only breed in isolated environments where no ecosystem or predation can take place.
A heavily planted pond attracts large numbers of predatory insects and amphibians, the most effective deterrent for mosquitoes.
So, does this mean a natural pond with NO liner (heavy clay dirt) will have problems with excess nutrients and weeds?
No, but a shallow pond where the water seeps easily will.