Everlast Tutorial: Power Connector (DINSE style) Cable Swap
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- This video shows how to change out the welding lead or work lead power cable with welders equipped with a standard DINSE type connector and a copper braided cable.
Glad it was of help. Sometimes the simplest issues, cause the most aggravation. That's why we have tried to put out simple, basic videos like this. If you've never done it before, you have no idea. Once you do it, you'll say, "Hey, that was easy." But again, if you haven't done it, or don't have instructions how, it can be a challenging task to say the least.
Can I buy the dinse 25 to 35 adapter?
Thanks Mark. Very helpful. Selected a Lincoln 10 foot connector. Removed the DINSE 50 connector. Pulled the the boot off the 4' cable that came with the 140e, loosened the set screw that held in the shimmed, light gauge cable, removed the cable from the DINSE connector, jammed in the heavier weight cable (without a shim) into the connector and tightened down with the set screw. Took ten minutes. Used a piece of leather and and a small locking pliers to remove the OEM cuff. As you predicted, if the cuff is lined up properly, it goes back on easily.
I just got my new everlast welder. Thank you for all of these great videos.
Thank you, just what I was looking for! Easy peasy, once you know the trick to it.
Thank you for posting! The information in this video was extremely helpful!
TY so much for taking the time to post, saved a lot of aggravation and headaches!!!
It must be almost standard for welders [at least cheaper ones] to come with short leads? I think mine are 5.5 ft and much thinner gauge than I want!
Mine did too - so last month I got (2) 1/0 , 12 ft cables from (2) 2006 chrysler 300 at picknpull yard for $5 each then ordered (4)dinse connectors from amazon for $10. This month 2 more of those cars came in & got 2 more cables. Now up to 30 ft - this battery cable is marked welding cable
Thank you very much for this very informative video
Helpful video! I needed this to extend my ground lead.
Glad you posted this. I have a couple questions... What gauge is the wire that came with my 200st welder with the 35 DINSE connectors? I'd like to lengthen leads to at least 30 ft each? I understand how guage size effects voltage drop. But I'm wondering, since 2 sets of DINSE connectors are cheaper than 20 foot of welding cable, is it possible to buy only the extra length in cable and 2 sets of DINSE connectors and use the original two 10 foot cables each installed in line witha new cable through DINSE connectors to reach the overall desired length?
I used LC40 style cam locks for the splice, took the Dinse off the 10ft cables that came with my Everlast Power-iTIG 200T put them on the 25ft new cables size #2 , put the female end of LC40 style connector on the other end of new cables, put the male coupler part on the 10ft cables. The LC40 splice connections won't come apart and mount flush with each other, male to female. I know this is an old post, but I'm posting what I did in case anyone else has the same question. I used Hobart brand, but there are others out there, you must order the size range for the cable you are using. Mine fit #4-#1 and are rate for up to 300 Amps at 65% duty cycle. You want to look at this, and also Amperage for the length of cable you are using. Example #2 cable at 25ft may be rated at 250 Amps, but the same #2 cable at 50ft may only be rated at 200 Amps, at 75ft 150 Amps, at 100ft 100 Amps. So if you need to have say 75' cables, that can handle 250 Amps of current, you would need to buy heavier, thicker, larger diameter 1/0 wire to handle 250 Amps at 75' Cables for welding run from #8 small and light, to 4/0 very large and heavy. Price goes up fast as the cable gets larger in diameter, because welding cables are 100% copper, and copper is expensive. Ditto the price of couplers goes up with cable size for the same reason. Bigger, heavier, more copper.
If you are worried about the cables shorting out, they should not with these connectors, as long as you keep them out of water. You can always coat the connection with liquid electrical tape, which is really an insulating rubber that you paint on. Not really necessary, and especially if you are going to be disconnecting your cables at time.
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Oh, the 35-70 Dinse plugs that came on my weld cables used a 5mm Allen wrench on the set screw. The splice LC40 style Hobart connectors used a 6mm Allen wrench. Also, the cables that came with the welder are both black, my 25' cables are red and black. So, to make the hook-up idiot proof, instead of using the female connectors on the both new cables same end, I put one female, and the other male. Only one way for them to splice together now. Positive to red, Negative to black. Of course when using the TIG function of the welder the black work cable goes in the positive plug-in on the welder, and the torch Dinse goes in the negative but that's another topic.
awesome! Thank you for this video.
My end connectors don't have a little ear on it it just a round plug unless it's wore off from being so old my welder is from the 1950s same plug but with out the ear will that plug work on mine it's a Marquette stick welder
Thanks!
I use a spare female dinse instead of using pliers on the pin while removing the boot. Should install boot first before cutting the insulation and at least put a flat piece of copper under the allen set screw. Instead of replacing to a longer lead, i just made a 3 feet extension with male and female dinse connectors.
Heat up the boot with a hair-dryer to make it easier.
este modelo de conector tiene problemas para mi lo mejor seria que lo fabricasen con un sistema de rotula,asi se evitaria un deterioro pronto.