An excellent video, thank you. I may not do my wife's as we don't have a garage, and the weather is a bit iffy. However, this did make me wonder why we have made cars so complicated. I remember having a Spitfire and being able to lift the bonnet and wings, sit on the wheel and remove the head. reseat the valves balance the carbs and do so much else with the car sitting on the road outside the house. Those were the days.
I can't say how much the video helped! I wouldn't have touched it if I hadn't watched this first. Fortunately I didn't have to remove the steering column, I managed to snip the old fan off with some cutters and took it out in 2. The new part was screwed together with 3 screws and went in as 2 parts and reassembled then twisted into position. I did move the steering link from the bottom of the motor to the floor for extra space. I was quoted £210 minimum for labour! Thank you for this video.
Paul, found your video, you are a star, sorted. Extremely helpful and informative. Unplugged all steering wheel wires but left steering wheel attached this also helped and yes the steering motor and linkage v heavy. Extra tip for others, disconnect the clutch linkage then remove pedal, fan then comes out a treat
This was the very information I was looking for, and have just completed the fan blower replacement. I took on board the tip to remove the fusebox and the air duct (yes there is a fiddly 3rd torx screw which i didnt put back) without taking out the steering column. I also pressed in the clutch and tied it off to give a bit more space. And the removal of the old blower worked by separating it into 2 parts with a fine screwdriver to release the white clips. And the new part went in in 2 parts, was a little fiddly lining up the clips again but took about 4 hours all in with a few breaks.
Thanks for video...... just to say I did as a couple of others have said by removing the foot duct the brace and loosened the clutch pedal... I split the motor in two by releasing it very the white tabs as someone else has said.... tricky job done in a couple of hours
Wife is complaining her heaters aren't blowing hot air this morning.. quick search on here brought me to your video. Suffice to say, I will not be doing this job! :)
No need to remove steering wheel or airbag - just drop column down to the right. And i left all the centre console alone and the metal brace as i managed to reach the torx through a small hole.
Hello mate, I was hoping I didn't have to go as far as you have to replace the heater fan, I've seen that the resister has been spliced and replaced so was hoping that it was that. Just so I can rule out the other fused end of the resister connector do you know what parts of the dash has to be removed to find the other end?
just done mine . dont need to take column fully out only held up with 4 nuts and slides forward .tie it up or i just rested mine on my leg . dont pull wires tight. but column is a bit heavy.if your not mechanical minded then take to garage.
Hi i know this is for the heater motor but i'm trying to remove the radio for my mk3 i have the keys but when i go to pull out the radio it wont come out anymore because the wires wont budge no more it only goes so far how did you get yours out ?
Hi Paul. Thanks for the video, mate. It came in very handy, as I had the same job to do on my 2010 Clio. Plus I am yet to buy a workshop manual. What a carry on! Removing the airbag is certainly 'interesting', as you say. As was extracting and refitting the blower motor itself. Thanks to the clutch pedal and dash reinforer bar! Thanks again, mate.
Thank you for this Mr. Cornforth. I presume the plug that is visible at 03:06 goes to the resister pack on the other side. Any ideas if you can reach this without going through all this? :) Best wishes, David
I have a loose connection somewhere as mine cuts in and out over a bump here or there. I took the glove box out and know a gentle tap will start it up again. can anyone tell me how the at plug at 03:06 connects so I can give it a clean up to see if that helps?
You need to unclip the aerial lead, by pulling up (iirc) on the white plastic clip. The top plug for the wiring will pull out and the lower two plugs require the plastic tabs depressing, whilst pulling the plug out. The wiring is very short though.
You Don't need to do all that stripping to replace the blower, just remove the feet air vent 2 awkward torques, clutch pedal, and the main air vent 2 torques, that gives you plenty room to remove the blower, everything is razor sharp so wear thin rubber gloves
I agree and have just completed a motor change. The floor vent has one screw that’s behind the fuse box and support brace. With the fuse box out you need to remove the black clip that the fuse box was attached to. With this removed you can just about get to this last screw. It’s tricky but saves you stripping more items to remove the large metal brace. On refit I didn’t replace this screw. The other two can hold the vent in place fine. The fan is designed to be split from the back plate. You have three white clips that release with a long handle flat screwdriver. Once released just gently pull the two parts away before attempting to bring the fan out and down past the area you’ve cleared by removing the clutch and foot vent. Same on the reinstall.
I was going to say the same I'm in the middle of doing one now had the motor out in half hour ! Removed air duct and clutch pedal bang out it came simple.
Thank you for the video. I was wondering if I was looking at the right make because it differs from my clio. Then I realised that you are performing surgery on a right(wrong) hand drive Clio.
I'm really pleased it's been of some use to people, I posted it because i couldn't find any info when i did mine, some people where telling me i had to remove the hole dash as you now know thats not necessary lol.
I think the electrical problems I have had with this car have resulted from water overflowing from the bonnet water well where the wiper motor is housed etc. so keep those leaves out and the drain pipes clear.
An excellent video, thank you. I may not do my wife's as we don't have a garage, and the weather is a bit iffy. However, this did make me wonder why we have made cars so complicated. I remember having a Spitfire and being able to lift the bonnet and wings, sit on the wheel and remove the head. reseat the valves balance the carbs and do so much else with the car sitting on the road outside the house. Those were the days.
I can't say how much the video helped! I wouldn't have touched it if I hadn't watched this first. Fortunately I didn't have to remove the steering column, I managed to snip the old fan off with some cutters and took it out in 2. The new part was screwed together with 3 screws and went in as 2 parts and reassembled then twisted into position. I did move the steering link from the bottom of the motor to the floor for extra space. I was quoted £210 minimum for labour! Thank you for this video.
Paul, found your video, you are a star, sorted. Extremely helpful and informative. Unplugged all steering wheel wires but left steering wheel attached this also helped and yes the steering motor and linkage v heavy.
Extra tip for others, disconnect the clutch linkage then remove pedal, fan then comes out a treat
This was the very information I was looking for, and have just completed the fan blower replacement. I took on board the tip to remove the fusebox and the air duct (yes there is a fiddly 3rd torx screw which i didnt put back) without taking out the steering column. I also pressed in the clutch and tied it off to give a bit more space. And the removal of the old blower worked by separating it into 2 parts with a fine screwdriver to release the white clips. And the new part went in in 2 parts, was a little fiddly lining up the clips again but took about 4 hours all in with a few breaks.
Thanks for video...... just to say I did as a couple of others have said by removing the foot duct the brace and loosened the clutch pedal... I split the motor in two by releasing it very the white tabs as someone else has said.... tricky job done in a couple of hours
Hi, that is the method I used to change the fan on my Renault clio. There is a video showing it on youtube
Wife is complaining her heaters aren't blowing hot air this morning.. quick search on here brought me to your video. Suffice to say, I will not be doing this job! :)
No need to remove steering wheel or airbag - just drop column down to the right. And i left all the centre console alone and the metal brace as i managed to reach the torx through a small hole.
video convinced me to put wifeys learner car into the local garage for this job ! :P
Done this recently and steering wheel doesn't need to be removed. My fan wouldn't get past the steering bracket. Tried for ages.
Hello mate, I was hoping I didn't have to go as far as you have to replace the heater fan, I've seen that the resister has been spliced and replaced so was hoping that it was that. Just so I can rule out the other fused end of the resister connector do you know what parts of the dash has to be removed to find the other end?
Ur a hero love people who try self fixes good man a wee job for tomoro
just done mine . dont need to take column fully out only held up with 4 nuts and slides forward .tie it up or i just rested mine on my leg . dont pull wires tight. but column is a bit heavy.if your not mechanical minded then take to garage.
Hi i know this is for the heater motor but i'm trying to remove the radio for my mk3 i have the keys but when i go to pull out the radio it wont come out anymore because the wires wont budge no more it only goes so far how did you get yours out ?
Hi Paul. Thanks for the video, mate.
It came in very handy, as I had the same job to do on my 2010 Clio. Plus I am yet to buy a workshop manual.
What a carry on! Removing the airbag is certainly 'interesting', as you say.
As was extracting and refitting the blower motor itself. Thanks to the clutch pedal and dash reinforer bar!
Thanks again, mate.
Thank you for this Mr. Cornforth. I presume the plug that is visible at 03:06 goes to the resister pack on the other side. Any ideas if you can reach this without going through all this? :) Best wishes, David
I have a loose connection somewhere as mine cuts in and out over a bump here or there. I took the glove box out and know a gentle tap will start it up again. can anyone tell me how the at plug at 03:06 connects so I can give it a clean up to see if that helps?
Mine is the exact same issue. Banging no longer works and I removed it to see what's up but thinking bearing issue
You need to unclip the aerial lead, by pulling up (iirc) on the white plastic clip.
The top plug for the wiring will pull out and the lower two plugs require the plastic tabs depressing, whilst pulling the plug out.
The wiring is very short though.
You Don't need to do all that stripping to replace the blower, just remove the feet air vent 2 awkward torques, clutch pedal, and the main air vent 2 torques, that gives you plenty room to remove the blower, everything is razor sharp so wear thin rubber gloves
I agree and have just completed a motor change.
The floor vent has one screw that’s behind the fuse box and support brace. With the fuse box out you need to remove the black clip that the fuse box was attached to. With this removed you can just about get to this last screw. It’s tricky but saves you stripping more items to remove the large metal brace. On refit I didn’t replace this screw. The other two can hold the vent in place fine.
The fan is designed to be split from the back plate. You have three white clips that release with a long handle flat screwdriver. Once released just gently pull the two parts away before attempting to bring the fan out and down past the area you’ve cleared by removing the clutch and foot vent. Same on the reinstall.
I was going to say the same I'm in the middle of doing one now had the motor out in half hour ! Removed air duct and clutch pedal bang out it came simple.
Thank you for the video.
I was wondering if I was looking at the right make because it differs from my clio. Then I realised that you are performing surgery on a right(wrong) hand drive Clio.
I’ve just done this now the car won’t start, starter isn’t even operating. Anyone have any idea?
Everything is plugged in
Call a proper mechanic!!
Huh that resistor looks exactly like the one Chrysler used on their early 2000s Sebring.. Interesting
RHD is the issue, a LHD is easy
I'm really pleased it's been of some use to people, I posted it because i couldn't find any info when i did mine, some people where telling me i had to remove the hole dash as you now know thats not necessary lol.
I think the electrical problems I have had with this car have resulted from water overflowing from the bonnet water well where the wiper motor is housed etc. so keep those leaves out and the drain pipes clear.