Been a while since I have done mine so watched your video before getting stuck in as a refresher. Thanks for taking the time to out it up, and being very thorough- I forgot to get new disc bolts in!
It is never too late! Thank you for stopping by! That was an attempt at neutralising squealing brakes. It is simply some heat shrink tubing. Bit of a gimmick really.
Just one thing I think you forgot to mention is that when you compress the brake caliper pistons the brake fluid level will increase so you need to make sure it doesn't over flow and then set back to the upper level when finished. I syringe out a load of fluid from the reservoir and then top up with new later.
Thanks for stopping by Chris! Truly appreciated. You are right about the fluid, going back up from the caliper towards the master cylinder. However, it should not overflow. The fact is, that the fluid level goes down as the brake pads wear out. So at best, a low fluid level indicates worn pads. The fluid which was once in the master cylinder's reservoir, is now in the calipers. So it shouldn't overflow when you reset the pistons. Unless somebody has topped it up at some point, which should not be done prior to a thorough inspection. Low brake fluid indicates worn pads, or a leak somewhere. In both cases, investigation should be carried out. :-)
@@gmcevoy agreed and I don't top it up, unfortunately the level is checked by the MOT station and they occasionally top it up. If I can stop them I do as I like to use the same fluid, Castrol dot 4.
Ah, if it's buggered, you will have to fit a new one I'm afraid. I truly wish I had a stunning trick up my sleeve, but that's as magical as it gets. :-) These things are quite delicate indeed. Thank you for stopping by, and best of luck with your seals!
This is an excellent question. Thank you for laying it down! There is no accurate information as to why grease is required in this area. Here is why I personally think it is necessary: it acts as a water repellent, and seals off the bearing quite well from water and road grit, grime, and what not. It also acts as a "grease reserve", should things go wrong. If, for example the bearing gets set too tight by an overworked, stressed and tired mechanic, or heats up unduly for some reason, the grease contained within will soften and eventually flow into the bearing carrier, keeping it lubricated even though it is overheating. Lastly, it would be to make sure that the securing nut and pin are caked in grease, making it impossible to rust and seize... If you miss out on packing the cap with grease, I don't think it will do much damage however. Bear in mind that these car used to be driven daily, sometimes quite hard, might suffer from neglect (lack of servicing), etc etc... and are nowadays used for pleasure, shared with family and friends during weekend strolls, usually well cared for and used as a demonstration of our past engineering prowess. Just my own hypothesis, however. Thanks again for your pertinent question!
@@gmcevoy Thank you for replying to my question in such detail. I completed the replacement of brake rotor, calliper and brake pads on my MGB and was looking at your video to check whether I didn't forget anything. I suddenly noticed that you used grease in the cap (which I hadn't noticed the previous times I watched the video). Interestingly I now see that the MGB workshop manual mentions to not use grease in the grease cap, where multiple sources on the Internet state that one should use it.
@@windmill1965 Always a pleasure. How peculiar, and highly interesting: I have just checked in one of two workshop manuals that I own regarding the MG B, and none specifically mention to do this or not. Both are Haynes manuals, one from 1977 and the other from 1991. It is common practice on other cars such as Triumphs and such, however. I guess I did this as a reflex. Personally, I am a mechanic who does things by the book, with a sprinkle of common sense on top of professional experience. You have raised quite an acute detail here. What workshop manual are you using, if I may ask?
@@gmcevoy at least you are a professional mechanic. I am an amateur who got his first classic car (MGB) about half a year ago, and am learning as I go along. I don't have the Haynes manual. What I got is a PDF file of a scanned version of the manual written by Leyland Cars (i.e. the manual provided by the factory). This document has 417 pages and can be found by searching online.
@@windmill1965 That is fantastic! Hats off to you! There really is nothing better than to read the factory manual, and dig right in. One of the best 'hands on' way to learn. Keep it up, and if you need some extra information along the way, let me know. I am always glad to help.
Been a while since I have done mine so watched your video before getting stuck in as a refresher. Thanks for taking the time to out it up, and being very thorough- I forgot to get new disc bolts in!
Fantastic! I am truly glad that my video has helped you. Have fun!
Great work and super informative…..Thanks
You are most welcome. Glad this helps.
I guess the customer must be quite happy by now :-) Thanks a lot Geoffrey, great job & great video!
I know for a fact that he is over the moon, about it. :-) Thank you for the kind words. Truly appreciated.
Well explained and nice video. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for saying so! I try my best. :)
Good job and well illustrated thanks a lot👍🇬🇧
Much appreciated, thank you!
Great video!
Thank you!
Cracking video….many thanks!
Thank you!
Very late to the party, but great video! What are the green covers you put over the retaining pins for the brake pads?
It is never too late! Thank you for stopping by! That was an attempt at neutralising squealing brakes. It is simply some heat shrink tubing. Bit of a gimmick really.
Just one thing I think you forgot to mention is that when you compress the brake caliper pistons the brake fluid level will increase so you need to make sure it doesn't over flow and then set back to the upper level when finished. I syringe out a load of fluid from the reservoir and then top up with new later.
Thanks for stopping by Chris! Truly appreciated. You are right about the fluid, going back up from the caliper towards the master cylinder. However, it should not overflow. The fact is, that the fluid level goes down as the brake pads wear out. So at best, a low fluid level indicates worn pads. The fluid which was once in the master cylinder's reservoir, is now in the calipers. So it shouldn't overflow when you reset the pistons. Unless somebody has topped it up at some point, which should not be done prior to a thorough inspection. Low brake fluid indicates worn pads, or a leak somewhere. In both cases, investigation should be carried out. :-)
@@gmcevoy agreed and I don't top it up, unfortunately the level is checked by the MOT station and they occasionally top it up. If I can stop them I do as I like to use the same fluid, Castrol dot 4.
Having problems with the seals. Buggered one and don't want to add to that. Any master mechanic magical tips will be sincerely appreciated.
Ah, if it's buggered, you will have to fit a new one I'm afraid. I truly wish I had a stunning trick up my sleeve, but that's as magical as it gets. :-) These things are quite delicate indeed. Thank you for stopping by, and best of luck with your seals!
Great video, thank you.
You are most welcome! Thank you for watching!
I didn't see how that first bearing fell out.
excellent
Thank you!
10:36 what is the purpose of the grease in the grease cap? What happens if you don't use grease at this point?
This is an excellent question. Thank you for laying it down! There is no accurate information as to why grease is required in this area. Here is why I personally think it is necessary: it acts as a water repellent, and seals off the bearing quite well from water and road grit, grime, and what not. It also acts as a "grease reserve", should things go wrong. If, for example the bearing gets set too tight by an overworked, stressed and tired mechanic, or heats up unduly for some reason, the grease contained within will soften and eventually flow into the bearing carrier, keeping it lubricated even though it is overheating. Lastly, it would be to make sure that the securing nut and pin are caked in grease, making it impossible to rust and seize... If you miss out on packing the cap with grease, I don't think it will do much damage however. Bear in mind that these car used to be driven daily, sometimes quite hard, might suffer from neglect (lack of servicing), etc etc... and are nowadays used for pleasure, shared with family and friends during weekend strolls, usually well cared for and used as a demonstration of our past engineering prowess. Just my own hypothesis, however. Thanks again for your pertinent question!
@@gmcevoy Thank you for replying to my question in such detail. I completed the replacement of brake rotor, calliper and brake pads on my MGB and was looking at your video to check whether I didn't forget anything. I suddenly noticed that you used grease in the cap (which I hadn't noticed the previous times I watched the video). Interestingly I now see that the MGB workshop manual mentions to not use grease in the grease cap, where multiple sources on the Internet state that one should use it.
@@windmill1965 Always a pleasure. How peculiar, and highly interesting: I have just checked in one of two workshop manuals that I own regarding the MG B, and none specifically mention to do this or not. Both are Haynes manuals, one from 1977 and the other from 1991. It is common practice on other cars such as Triumphs and such, however. I guess I did this as a reflex. Personally, I am a mechanic who does things by the book, with a sprinkle of common sense on top of professional experience. You have raised quite an acute detail here. What workshop manual are you using, if I may ask?
@@gmcevoy at least you are a professional mechanic. I am an amateur who got his first classic car (MGB) about half a year ago, and am learning as I go along. I don't have the Haynes manual. What I got is a PDF file of a scanned version of the manual written by Leyland Cars (i.e. the manual provided by the factory). This document has 417 pages and can be found by searching online.
@@windmill1965 That is fantastic! Hats off to you! There really is nothing better than to read the factory manual, and dig right in. One of the best 'hands on' way to learn. Keep it up, and if you need some extra information along the way, let me know. I am always glad to help.
Late to the party......Well done.
It is never too late. Welcome, and thank you! 🙂