That was such an innovative method of picking the D12. Much more elegant than what I did. Indeed, I read or saw the same on the key cuts and key pins. Used for mastering. Also, that housing in yours is the same I have in my assa twin combi which does have a sidebar. Finally, I'd also like to know that those ball bearing detents are for. As always, what a wonderful video! 😀
Those ball bearing detents are for screw blockers. Google for "assa cylinderpropp" to see how they look like. They are used to block the screw holes after having screwed the lock to the door. The ball bearing detents prevent the screw blockers from being removed or placed, unless you possess a key to the lock (turn the cylinder to 10 o clock or 02 o clock position to enable removing/placing of screw blockers). Thus the lock becomes "secure" on both sides.
No, those pins are NOT cylinder trap pins. Those are pins used along with screw blockers. So to insert or remove the screw blockers (small hardened metal pieces that looks like butterflies, that block both screwholes along with a pin with a "padlock notch" that goes into the middle of the 3 holes), you have to turn the key either to 10 o clock or 02 o clock, which "shows the lock" that you possess a key, and thus can unscrew the lock. This is a security feature, so the lock is secure on both sides. Used with class 3 (EN: RC4) locks which require a "away" feature where the lock can be set to require key from both directions by disabling the thumbturn. So these "pins" are round on the screw hole end, just so they work like ball-bearings on a padlock. The ball-bearings can only retract if the cylinder is in the right position, thus the screw blockers is "padlocked" into the bible when the cylinder core is in the locked position. But are you sure its a D12? Look on the other side on the key, there should be a 4-pin weird side-block there, and thats why the guts have a slot for a sidebar. If the key is totally flat the whole way, its a D13 key. The side-bar block is there to prevent a D12 key (which is a copy protected key system) being cut into a D13 blank. All blanks are D13, but the machine does not allow cutting the sidebar block unless you perform a full owner authorization for the keycode (for the consumers, you have to show the blue plastic key). D13 is a system without copy protection, where anyone can cut keys, basically, no owner authentication is required, but they use the same profile, keyblanks and cylinders as D12, the D13 cylinders however lack the side bar and the 4 pin side-block and are totally flat. However, the keys and cylinder does still say D12. To find how these metal "butterflies" look like, google for "assa cylinderpropp" and you will find them. Then you can get a picture in your head how they are used along with these pins you called "cylinder trap pins".
This is excellent info, thank you! Mystery solved! I'm as sure as I can be about it being a D12, but I may be incorrect. So, if I understand correctly, A D12 key has a side block with cuts in it. A D13 key has the side block but no cuts, correct? Further, D12 should have a sidebar, whereas D13 doesn't have the sidebar?
@@lockpickingfisherman No, the D12 key should have 4 small cuts on the top of the warding, near the tip of the key. This is what I call a "side block" (a block of cuts). In the cylinder, there should be a corresponding blocking element along with a side bar, that fits into this side block, preventing D13 keys from operating a D12 lock. If the warding on the key lacks those 4 cuts, and is flat all the way to the tip, then its a D13 key.
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That was such an innovative method of picking the D12. Much more elegant than what I did.
Indeed, I read or saw the same on the key cuts and key pins. Used for mastering.
Also, that housing in yours is the same I have in my assa twin combi which does have a sidebar.
Finally, I'd also like to know that those ball bearing detents are for.
As always, what a wonderful video! 😀
Those ball bearing detents are for screw blockers. Google for "assa cylinderpropp" to see how they look like. They are used to block the screw holes after having screwed the lock to the door. The ball bearing detents prevent the screw blockers from being removed or placed, unless you possess a key to the lock (turn the cylinder to 10 o clock or 02 o clock position to enable removing/placing of screw blockers). Thus the lock becomes "secure" on both sides.
@@sebastiannielsen, thanks so much for that information. Definitely will look that up. 😀
Thanks Loose, much appreciated!
@sebastiannielsen provided some excellent info on those strange pins.
Nice video! Just need to make or buy some dimple picks now 😅
Thank you! Dimples are a lot of fun, you won't regret it!
No, those pins are NOT cylinder trap pins. Those are pins used along with screw blockers. So to insert or remove the screw blockers (small hardened metal pieces that looks like butterflies, that block both screwholes along with a pin with a "padlock notch" that goes into the middle of the 3 holes), you have to turn the key either to 10 o clock or 02 o clock, which "shows the lock" that you possess a key, and thus can unscrew the lock. This is a security feature, so the lock is secure on both sides. Used with class 3 (EN: RC4) locks which require a "away" feature where the lock can be set to require key from both directions by disabling the thumbturn.
So these "pins" are round on the screw hole end, just so they work like ball-bearings on a padlock. The ball-bearings can only retract if the cylinder is in the right position, thus the screw blockers is "padlocked" into the bible when the cylinder core is in the locked position.
But are you sure its a D12? Look on the other side on the key, there should be a 4-pin weird side-block there, and thats why the guts have a slot for a sidebar. If the key is totally flat the whole way, its a D13 key. The side-bar block is there to prevent a D12 key (which is a copy protected key system) being cut into a D13 blank. All blanks are D13, but the machine does not allow cutting the sidebar block unless you perform a full owner authorization for the keycode (for the consumers, you have to show the blue plastic key).
D13 is a system without copy protection, where anyone can cut keys, basically, no owner authentication is required, but they use the same profile, keyblanks and cylinders as D12, the D13 cylinders however lack the side bar and the 4 pin side-block and are totally flat. However, the keys and cylinder does still say D12.
To find how these metal "butterflies" look like, google for "assa cylinderpropp" and you will find them. Then you can get a picture in your head how they are used along with these pins you called "cylinder trap pins".
This is excellent info, thank you! Mystery solved! I'm as sure as I can be about it being a D12, but I may be incorrect. So, if I understand correctly, A D12 key has a side block with cuts in it. A D13 key has the side block but no cuts, correct? Further, D12 should have a sidebar, whereas D13 doesn't have the sidebar?
@@lockpickingfisherman No, the D12 key should have 4 small cuts on the top of the warding, near the tip of the key. This is what I call a "side block" (a block of cuts). In the cylinder, there should be a corresponding blocking element along with a side bar, that fits into this side block, preventing D13 keys from operating a D12 lock.
If the warding on the key lacks those 4 cuts, and is flat all the way to the tip, then its a D13 key.
@@lockpickingfisherman Another way you can identify a D12 resp D13 key:
D12 has only digits in the key code stamped on key.
D13 has letters aswell.
Nice
Thank you! 🍻