Many thanks. It's hard to explain how I got here but here we are. If you have any ideas on content for the channel please feel free to make suggestions
@@ArminHirmer thanks man. I feel finding that fallen Yew tree was an important moment. I followed you to learn more about Asiatic designs, get the Yumi working as it should. The horse bow broke unfortunately as I was finding the limits of the design but I learned a lot in the process. I think I get it
@@thesiegecaptain many thanks. It's new information to me but I'm really enjoying putting it into practice and gaining a proper understanding I can't fully explain why I've taken this road but it feels like a good one. Bows touch on many good things
@thesiegecaptain I only completed my first one at the end of last year but decided to really lean into it using fallen Pacific and common Yews I found walking. The horse bow is number 12. Probably as many snapped. It may just be into a positive ratio now I want to try the Yumi design in Ash as well, do the shorter Hankyu version to I should do all the native selfbow woods really and explore all the native accessorie materials as well. In short, I've got a bunch of foraging to do. Stay tuned!
Happy new year buddy I love the videos your one of only a few English bow makers I've seen on here keep the coming where do you source your bow wood from I'd love to start making bows myself I made all my own hand tool from draw knives to chisels carving knives shaving horse etc but getting the wood isn't easy here in the uk without it costing a fortune
@Mike-nf1pp many thanks Mike. It was a necessary response to stimulus in my life and observations of what our classy society is able to turn a blind eye to and nose up at. For bow wood? Get walking my man and learn your land. Ash is probably the easiest place to start though you won't find many mushrooms in Ash or maple forests. Find your older mixed woodland and you may just find a fallen Yew tree that has propped itself up off the mud. If you find that, you may just find some hazel or a red oak with a tasty looking log. Educate yourself on species and how to approach them mindfully, remember your are playing your large mammal roal in the ecosystem and don't trespass. I found making mallets and sticks gave me a good idea of what you need to look for when using foraged wood. You will naturally avoid this by collecting green (winter is the best time to prune) but it naturally comes with other issues. Wood is a whole other thing. I had to do a bunch of walking with wood in mind and got lucky
Be wary about cutting in arrow shelfs on selfbows. Really arrowshelfs need what is called an I-beam and are a 'thing' for glass bows. The problem is that the shape intrudes what is called a 'stress riser' (right where the bow is feeling maximum strain) and thus need to be reinforced. I know people do it but in the long run the bow will likely fail there. As for design...it's too complicated to go into fully here but....all (good!) designs will shoot within 10fps of each when made optimally. A good speed with 10gpp arrows would be 170fps, 180 very good and upto 190-195 as the upper limit. For now you should stick to a simple straight selfbow design, probably best to go with a pyramid width taper (then your tiller profile will be a true arc of a circle and thus easy to 'see' proper tiller) and learn to tiller perfectly. Good performance is much more to do with keeping the belly wood fibers 'fresh' than it is to do with design per se eg. keeping set during tillering to an absolute minimum. This should be your goal to begin with. I know it's fun to try different designs but ultimately you will come to the same conclusion....There is no 'best' design....all the World's different bows are a function of their intended use and the materials they had a available. Look up the Holmguaard bow for an example of the sort of bows ancient man would have used here :) Good luck with the bows :)
The arrow shelves are definitely a point of contention for the traditionalists, though it has been fun getting them to work and also has taught me a bunch about arrows. It's part of why I've built up the handles with extra hardwood What you say about the shape and fibres is interesting though and is ringing true in my work Sticking with the more simple shapes will save a lot of energy as well. Thanks again! I've had a few people being really rude and stuck up with their comments. This is very useful stuff to me. It is of course a serious pursuit but it can also be fun. Bit of an adventure to. What's your next bow build? What you been foraging lately??
@@sweetchariotengland Well i've just made 3 Holmguaard bows and the last thing I foraged would have been some sorrell. I make furniture more these days. I've probably made close to 700 bows....I'm just about over it now haha :) As far as bows now the only real types that interest me ar e horn composite bows. I've done about 25of them but still a few designs I want to try out. Probably a Persian one next.
As for the arrowshelves - they may 'work' now but trust me if the bow gets shot enough they will fail there as I said it is a stress riser. I could explain better in person. A simple solution is to get some leather and glue it on then shape the shelf from the leather. Ultra thin CA will wick into it and make it rock hard.
@@eclipsearchery9387 haha! He's not over It, I don't buy it The bow builder associated with Walesa Archery Specialists was doing snooker cues, then he did cue-ike laminate English longbows and is now moving onto harps. A master by all accounts. I think the serial numbers of the 2 in the shop were in the 2500s I am moving away from doing centre cut bows for now. Number 9 and 10 achieved exactly what I was after. It's a stressful design though to achieve what a traditional handle can also do. I just posted a video on the latest bow I've done and it just happens to look like a Holmegaard. Come check it out and see if I can explain myself. I need a chronograph, more arrows and one of those pull scales designed for the hand. Save me trips to WAS to borrow theirs
❤❤❤
@@bienyamientoefy1923 thank you
Thank you for sharing your work. Wow
Many thanks.
It's hard to explain how I got here but here we are.
If you have any ideas on content for the channel please feel free to make suggestions
nice
@@ArminHirmer thanks man. I feel finding that fallen Yew tree was an important moment.
I followed you to learn more about Asiatic designs, get the Yumi working as it should.
The horse bow broke unfortunately as I was finding the limits of the design but I learned a lot in the process.
I think I get it
A lot of good information here
@@thesiegecaptain many thanks. It's new information to me but I'm really enjoying putting it into practice and gaining a proper understanding
I can't fully explain why I've taken this road but it feels like a good one.
Bows touch on many good things
@@sweetchariotengland For real they do. I made my first bow this year (For a gastraphetes) and I couldnt believe all the nuances in bowyering.
@thesiegecaptain I only completed my first one at the end of last year but decided to really lean into it using fallen Pacific and common Yews I found walking.
The horse bow is number 12. Probably as many snapped. It may just be into a positive ratio now
I want to try the Yumi design in Ash as well, do the shorter Hankyu version to
I should do all the native selfbow woods really and explore all the native accessorie materials as well.
In short, I've got a bunch of foraging to do. Stay tuned!
Happy new year buddy I love the videos your one of only a few English bow makers I've seen on here keep the coming where do you source your bow wood from I'd love to start making bows myself I made all my own hand tool from draw knives to chisels carving knives shaving horse etc but getting the wood isn't easy here in the uk without it costing a fortune
@Mike-nf1pp many thanks Mike. It was a necessary response to stimulus in my life and observations of what our classy society is able to turn a blind eye to and nose up at.
For bow wood? Get walking my man and learn your land.
Ash is probably the easiest place to start though you won't find many mushrooms in Ash or maple forests.
Find your older mixed woodland and you may just find a fallen Yew tree that has propped itself up off the mud.
If you find that, you may just find some hazel or a red oak with a tasty looking log.
Educate yourself on species and how to approach them mindfully, remember your are playing your large mammal roal in the ecosystem and don't trespass.
I found making mallets and sticks gave me a good idea of what you need to look for when using foraged wood.
You will naturally avoid this by collecting green (winter is the best time to prune) but it naturally comes with other issues.
Wood is a whole other thing.
I had to do a bunch of walking with wood in mind and got lucky
@sweetchariotengland thanks so much for the response mate I really appreciate it and I'm going to do just that 👍😉
Be wary about cutting in arrow shelfs on selfbows. Really arrowshelfs need what is called an I-beam and are a 'thing' for glass bows. The problem is that the shape intrudes what is called a 'stress riser' (right where the bow is feeling maximum strain) and thus need to be reinforced. I know people do it but in the long run the bow will likely fail there.
As for design...it's too complicated to go into fully here but....all (good!) designs will shoot within 10fps of each when made optimally. A good speed with 10gpp arrows would be 170fps, 180 very good and upto 190-195 as the upper limit. For now you should stick to a simple straight selfbow design, probably best to go with a pyramid width taper (then your tiller profile will be a true arc of a circle and thus easy to 'see' proper tiller) and learn to tiller perfectly. Good performance is much more to do with keeping the belly wood fibers 'fresh' than it is to do with design per se eg. keeping set during tillering to an absolute minimum. This should be your goal to begin with. I know it's fun to try different designs but ultimately you will come to the same conclusion....There is no 'best' design....all the World's different bows are a function of their intended use and the materials they had a available. Look up the Holmguaard bow for an example of the sort of bows ancient man would have used here :)
Good luck with the bows :)
The arrow shelves are definitely a point of contention for the traditionalists, though it has been fun getting them to work and also has taught me a bunch about arrows.
It's part of why I've built up the handles with extra hardwood
What you say about the shape and fibres is interesting though and is ringing true in my work
Sticking with the more simple shapes will save a lot of energy as well.
Thanks again!
I've had a few people being really rude and stuck up with their comments.
This is very useful stuff to me.
It is of course a serious pursuit but it can also be fun. Bit of an adventure to.
What's your next bow build? What you been foraging lately??
@@sweetchariotengland Well i've just made 3 Holmguaard bows and the last thing I foraged would have been some sorrell. I make furniture more these days. I've probably made close to 700 bows....I'm just about over it now haha :) As far as bows now the only real types that interest me ar e horn composite bows. I've done about 25of them but still a few designs I want to try out. Probably a Persian one next.
As for the arrowshelves - they may 'work' now but trust me if the bow gets shot enough they will fail there as I said it is a stress riser. I could explain better in person. A simple solution is to get some leather and glue it on then shape the shelf from the leather. Ultra thin CA will wick into it and make it rock hard.
@@eclipsearchery9387 haha! He's not over It, I don't buy it
The bow builder associated with Walesa Archery Specialists was doing snooker cues, then he did cue-ike laminate English longbows and is now moving onto harps.
A master by all accounts. I think the serial numbers of the 2 in the shop were in the 2500s
I am moving away from doing centre cut bows for now. Number 9 and 10 achieved exactly what I was after.
It's a stressful design though to achieve what a traditional handle can also do.
I just posted a video on the latest bow I've done and it just happens to look like a Holmegaard.
Come check it out and see if I can explain myself.
I need a chronograph, more arrows and one of those pull scales designed for the hand.
Save me trips to WAS to borrow theirs