Skyscraper makes awesome stuff. For anybody looking for guitar build/setup tools, Skyscraper also has items discounted for anodized finish issues occasionally. They're reasonably priced, excellent quality and a few bucks off never hurts when building a quality tool kit.
I think a neat trick for dealing with glue squeeze-out around the neck joint is to insert the neck with no glue and then mask off the neck exactly where it meets the body, and also the body where it meets the neck. That way any squeeze-out can be scraped off the tape with a chisel or utility knife after it started to gel (but before it sets completely).
Fun fact: after you did your GuitarFetish kit build that went so bad at the end, they actually stopped offering kits for a while. They only put them back up a month or two ago, and they’re sorta buried on their bodies and necks page now. Hopefully their CNC machine isn’t crooked anymore.
As it happens I also usually apply glue with a finger or two. Just a habit in case of a protrusion I can't see but could feel. Works every time. Then I can go and clean glue of the steering wheel of my car. Good times indeed. I love that colour. Carry on....
Really awesome series!! Hats off, great work! I was very interested to see a build using a Precision Guitar Kit. Been wanting to pull the trigger on one and this definitely helped inform my decision thank you. It's like you said, you get what you pay for and their kits seem to be high quality. Plus the option to choose woods, pickup routes etc is just awesome! New subscriber here and I'm currently binging this series lol! Heard about you through Texas Toast Guitars channel. Thanks for all the great content! Cheers!!
This kit quality is fantastic as expected.. they really do a lot of the hard work making the builders life much easier.. waiting for your clearcoat on this Brad before i judge the color choice.. I still love to see the dark flame.. but the top coat may make this POP for sure.. great work..
I have a wenge neck with an ebony fretboard on my kit guitar. I love the feel of that neck. But the smell of the wenge when I first got it, whewwwwww lol.
If only all kits were as simple to prep and assemble as your current 'trouble-free' kit...but the ol' man wasn't born yesterday, you MUST be using video tricks! :)
Precision kits that are custom made cost about $1,000, so you'd be annoyed if you then had to do a lot of your own finishing work after that, wouldn't you?
Brad, you copied my PRS kit build😱! And I copied someone else’s and so on😆! Your channel is the Best!! Always straight forward and helpful to us amateur’s out here!! This will be a stunning guitar!
Please use an authentic ABR-1 Bridge with the threaded rod studs. Sink them all the way into the mahogany under the maple and you'll have close to a vintage as affordable. Great Kit and its looking fantastic. EDIT: Skip the threaded rod ABR-1 posts, I just noticed the body is drilled for the threaded inserts.
@@BradAngove My mistake, yes of course, Black Limba/Korina. A real dream guitar for sure. I chuckled to myself when you pulled out the Fret Rocker, I already knew the results. Also, you are correct, this will be one of the quickest/pain-free builds you've ever documented. Again, Thank You for sharing and a big thanks to Precision Kits. EDIT; The color of that top looked better now than right after you stained it. I can't wait to see it with the Amber Top Coat.
Hey Brad, that is a great fitting neck as would be expected by PGK's...love the color. I saw where you checked the neck angle but did not check the side to side or neck center positioning. I expect it's not going to be off since it has such a great fit, but it's something that I always check because once it's glued in its a real hassle to unglue it and reset it as you know. I was wondering if you checked that during your lost footage and just did not do it again.
Ah thanks Pete! I knew I forgot to do something the second time! In fairness, my process for that on a kit like this is pretty minimal. I just run a straight edge down each side of the neck and check that it runs to about the same location relative to the post holes, or that it hits a reasonable spot in the bridge, depending on the guitar type. On one I trust less I will place the bridge and nut and run something from nut to saddle to check where it sits on the board.
Starting to realize that Im old... these shorts is driving me mad (but I get it, it gives alot of attention)... Im happy that the channel have grown to (as of now) 125k from the 3.5k when I subscribed but I feel this is to much. I have to search for other ways to quench my desire for quality and honest videos of REAL craftsmanship and dedication that this channel have done, not going to be easy but I will try....
The shorts really don’t garner much viewership; I’m just trying to use them as another way to deliver information and help people. Maybe that isn’t working, or at least not for everyone (the feedback has mostly been positive). I’m not sure how they’re showing up for you, but I have been careful not to allow them to impact the frequency of my normal, full-length videos. The next one comes out in about 30 minutes.
Nice work Brad as usual. I'm curious to know does clamping the radius block onto the neck cause the frets to compress further down into the neck thus having to recheck the fret heights?
Clamping with a hard straight board could warp the frets, but the radius block shouldn’t. It can’t press the frets in further; they’re already all the way in.
Hi Brad, do you need a clamping block to be that thick? Would one that is about an inch thick work well enough? And would 800 lbs clamping pressure be enough?
It doesn’t need to be that thick; that’s just what I had available. I’ve never measured the clamping pressure, but that sounds entirely adequate to me.
OK, I have a completely random question Brad. I'm thinking about painting my first acoustic guitar in a metallic or metal flake paint scheme. What clear coat or top coat would you recommend to not impact the tone but get a smooth finish?
I was actually thinking of using the Metalcast ground coat and possibly glitter over that, with the Metalcast blue. Do you have any experience with those paints on guitars, meaning the Metalcast?
Nitro is not the same at all. There is catalyzed lacquer, but nitro isn’t catalyzed generally. It depends on how thick the coats are. Everything like that affects tone on an acoustic. Not necessarily negatively, but thinner is usually better.
@@BradAngove did a lot of reading about the original 59s and the current custom shop, and some other vids of les pauls being rebuilt by guys at your level of expertise and they all state hot hide glue is essential in a top notch build.
Haha ok. Hit me; aside from sticking with the outdated products used in a 59, what basis is there for suggesting that you can’t make a top notch build with using heated horse as an adhesive?
@@BradAngove again, those so called "out dated products" are cited by experts as a big part of what makes the "59 burst sound". I am preparing to use it on my 59 build from this company. And I have 1000% less skill and experience as you do. But, I can read and study. P.S. this series, although HIGHLY anticipated, is meh so far.
That’s quite funny. This is a solid body electric, the idea that using hide glue over titebond will make it sound better is ridiculous. You’d notice more of a difference in tone from whether you smile or frown when you’re playing haha.
@@BradAngove , oh yeah? Well you have the right guy! Back when I worked for a living I would smoke 4-5 a day. Now? I can’t afford that! Retirement sucks 😂
I think a little self consciousness like that probably helps us identify with you. I should try that. I’m generally trying to convey confidence I don’t actually possess. Lmao
Nice. Liking the color and the kit. Sorry you lost footage but you should probably rehearse anyway just to keep the instructive narration chops in top condition. Lolol
I was a little paranoid when you checked the pocket to the bridge as you trusted it. Then it occurred to me you already spent all the second guessing in the lost footage… lmao
That was totally teasing about rehearsing, you don’t need it. Lol The bridge was just resting and you were so casual and confident the height difference, but I wasn’t and just put my trust in you. Lolol
![GEEK TIMË [OFFICIAL AUDIO]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ry-6RvkH880/mqdefault.jpg)
If there's one thing you can rest assured of, the neck will fit and line up properly. That's where the 'Precision", comes in on their name.
Skyscraper makes awesome stuff. For anybody looking for guitar build/setup tools, Skyscraper also has items discounted for anodized finish issues occasionally. They're reasonably priced, excellent quality and a few bucks off never hurts when building a quality tool kit.
I think a neat trick for dealing with glue squeeze-out around the neck joint is to insert the neck with no glue and then mask off the neck exactly where it meets the body, and also the body where it meets the neck. That way any squeeze-out can be scraped off the tape with a chisel or utility knife after it started to gel (but before it sets completely).
That works well when there’s a more distinct joint. This one is quite well blended.
Had my kit for five years, best frets ever. I play it a lot and almost no wear. Polished frets last a long, long time.
Excellent!
Good looking guitar--excited to see the finished product!
Thanks Patrick
Brad, a man with your skills should always make their own guards.
Norman Mozley
Fun fact: after you did your GuitarFetish kit build that went so bad at the end, they actually stopped offering kits for a while. They only put them back up a month or two ago, and they’re sorta buried on their bodies and necks page now. Hopefully their CNC machine isn’t crooked anymore.
That’s odd timing. Hopefully they’re doing better with them now.
Love the color!
I have done four of their kits and will no doubt do more. They truly are awesome
I agree Eddie. I’m a bit fan of them so far.
Man it's going to look great when it's done.
I did a precision v kit a couple months ago it turned out super nice. The neck pocket is perfect.
Glad to hear it.
Great video Brad. That's a nice color too.🇨🇦
Thanks Brian
Awesome ... again cant wait to see this finished up !! :)
Thanks Terry
Some really Good Info So now I’ve got to take this and start a New Build, Thanks Brad 👍👍🎶🎶🎸
Thanks John
Nice build Brad, that blueburst is fantastic!!!!!
I really like the neck joint fit. Very impressed so far.....
It’s very snug. Almost too tight, but I’d rather take a little off if it ever came to that rather than having to add.
Ah good deal. A new Brand Angove video to cap off a good week.
Cheers Richard
Thanks for the video Brad, it really looks like a quality kit - Cheers
Cheers Dan
Love it. My next kit will probably come from them.
Solid choice
As it happens I also usually apply glue with a finger or two. Just a habit in case of a protrusion I can't see but could feel. Works every time. Then I can go and clean glue of the steering wheel of my car. Good times indeed. I love that colour. Carry on....
Cheers
very nice kit indeed.
Really awesome series!! Hats off, great work! I was very interested to see a build using a Precision Guitar Kit. Been wanting to pull the trigger on one and this definitely helped inform my decision thank you. It's like you said, you get what you pay for and their kits seem to be high quality. Plus the option to choose woods, pickup routes etc is just awesome! New subscriber here and I'm currently binging this series lol! Heard about you through Texas Toast Guitars channel. Thanks for all the great content! Cheers!!
Thanks Spencer and welcome to the channel.
This kit quality is fantastic as expected.. they really do a lot of the hard work making the builders life much easier.. waiting for your clearcoat on this Brad before i judge the color choice.. I still love to see the dark flame.. but the top coat may make this POP for sure.. great work..
Thanks BJ
I have a wenge neck with an ebony fretboard on my kit guitar. I love the feel of that neck. But the smell of the wenge when I first got it, whewwwwww lol.
That’s a cool combo
What a great fitting neck! Making sure the neck angle is right must be the most worrisome part of the hole build.
It’s certainly one of the most important parts.
If only all kits were as simple to prep and assemble as your current 'trouble-free' kit...but the ol' man wasn't born yesterday, you MUST be using video tricks! :)
Precision kits that are custom made cost about $1,000, so you'd be annoyed if you then had to do a lot of your own finishing work after that, wouldn't you?
Brad, you copied my PRS kit build😱! And I copied someone else’s and so on😆! Your channel is the Best!! Always straight forward and helpful to us amateur’s out here!! This will be a stunning guitar!
Haha thank you. It’s tough to come up with something “original” that actually makes sense these days.
Please use an authentic ABR-1 Bridge with the threaded rod studs. Sink them all the way into the mahogany under the maple and you'll have close to a vintage as affordable.
Great Kit and its looking fantastic.
EDIT: Skip the threaded rod ABR-1 posts, I just noticed the body is drilled for the threaded inserts.
I’ll be using something a bit more modern than that, but I think you’ll like it.
No mahogany on this kit btw. The body is black limba.
@@BradAngove My mistake, yes of course, Black Limba/Korina. A real dream guitar for sure. I chuckled to myself when you pulled out the Fret Rocker, I already knew the results. Also, you are correct, this will be one of the quickest/pain-free builds you've ever documented.
Again, Thank You for sharing and a big thanks to Precision Kits.
EDIT; The color of that top looked better now than right after you stained it. I can't wait to see it with the Amber Top Coat.
Yeah it’s a beautiful kit. Pretty tough to mess this one up too badly haha.
Hey Brad, that is a great fitting neck as would be expected by PGK's...love the color. I saw where you checked the neck angle but did not check the side to side or neck center positioning. I expect it's not going to be off since it has such a great fit, but it's something that I always check because once it's glued in its a real hassle to unglue it and reset it as you know. I was wondering if you checked that during your lost footage and just did not do it again.
Ah thanks Pete! I knew I forgot to do something the second time!
In fairness, my process for that on a kit like this is pretty minimal. I just run a straight edge down each side of the neck and check that it runs to about the same location relative to the post holes, or that it hits a reasonable spot in the bridge, depending on the guitar type. On one I trust less I will place the bridge and nut and run something from nut to saddle to check where it sits on the board.
Starting to realize that Im old... these shorts is driving me mad (but I get it, it gives alot of attention)... Im happy that the channel have grown to (as of now) 125k from the 3.5k when I subscribed but I feel this is to much. I have to search for other ways to quench my desire for quality and honest videos of REAL craftsmanship and dedication that this channel have done, not going to be easy but I will try....
The shorts really don’t garner much viewership; I’m just trying to use them as another way to deliver information and help people. Maybe that isn’t working, or at least not for everyone (the feedback has mostly been positive).
I’m not sure how they’re showing up for you, but I have been careful not to allow them to impact the frequency of my normal, full-length videos. The next one comes out in about 30 minutes.
Hi Brad, thnanks for your reply for my question about pine guitar body. But what is the best way to raise the grain.
I like to use methanol. A light mist of water is also a good option.
6:00 even more important since u cant shin neck for action issues 😬😬
Gluing the neck causes a little anxiety for me. I even felt anxious while you were doing it LOL.
Haha well luckily I’ve done a few at this point. You get used to it.
Hi Brad. Thanks for all the great videos. What glue do you use for necks?
Usually titebond original
Nice work Brad as usual. I'm curious to know does clamping the radius block onto the neck cause the frets to compress further down into the neck thus having to recheck the fret heights?
Clamping with a hard straight board could warp the frets, but the radius block shouldn’t. It can’t press the frets in further; they’re already all the way in.
Hi Brad, do you need a clamping block to be that thick? Would one that is about an inch thick work well enough? And would 800 lbs clamping pressure be enough?
It doesn’t need to be that thick; that’s just what I had available. I’ve never measured the clamping pressure, but that sounds entirely adequate to me.
@@BradAngove thanks Brad
OK, I have a completely random question Brad. I'm thinking about painting my first acoustic guitar in a metallic or metal flake paint scheme. What clear coat or top coat would you recommend to not impact the tone but get a smooth finish?
I’d do the whole thing in nitrocellulose lacquer and just try to keep it reasonably thin.
@@BradAngove Thank you! Is nitro the same as 2k? If so, how many coats would you go to not affect affect the tone too much?
I was actually thinking of using the Metalcast ground coat and possibly glitter over that, with the Metalcast blue. Do you have any experience with those paints on guitars, meaning the Metalcast?
Nitro is not the same at all. There is catalyzed lacquer, but nitro isn’t catalyzed generally.
It depends on how thick the coats are. Everything like that affects tone on an acoustic. Not necessarily negatively, but thinner is usually better.
No, I haven’t had a chance to try them out.
What color dye is that?
It’s a combination of the blue and green from Mohawk’s NGR dye stains.
Make the headstock black! No hot hide glue?
I never use hide glue.
@@BradAngove did a lot of reading about the original 59s and the current custom shop, and some other vids of les pauls being rebuilt by guys at your level of expertise and they all state hot hide glue is essential in a top notch build.
Haha ok. Hit me; aside from sticking with the outdated products used in a 59, what basis is there for suggesting that you can’t make a top notch build with using heated horse as an adhesive?
@@BradAngove again, those so called "out dated products" are cited by experts as a big part of what makes the "59 burst sound". I am preparing to use it on my 59 build from this company. And I have 1000% less skill and experience as you do. But, I can read and study. P.S. this series, although HIGHLY anticipated, is meh so far.
That’s quite funny. This is a solid body electric, the idea that using hide glue over titebond will make it sound better is ridiculous. You’d notice more of a difference in tone from whether you smile or frown when you’re playing haha.
You get a cigar for that
Love a good cigar.
@@BradAngove , oh yeah? Well you have the right guy! Back when I worked for a living I would smoke 4-5 a day. Now? I can’t afford that! Retirement sucks 😂
Hopefully you have a good stock of them.
@@BradAngove , long gone my friend. Now I’m down to 1 a day 😞
Apparently I lost some footage… broke fifth wall and told us. Lolpl
I think a little self consciousness like that probably helps us identify with you. I should try that. I’m generally trying to convey confidence I don’t actually possess. Lmao
Nice. Liking the color and the kit. Sorry you lost footage but you should probably rehearse anyway just to keep the instructive narration chops in top condition. Lolol
I was a little paranoid when you checked the pocket to the bridge as you trusted it. Then it occurred to me you already spent all the second guessing in the lost footage… lmao
I have never rehearsed a video in the last 9 years haha.
What do you mean checked the pocket to the bridge?
That was totally teasing about rehearsing, you don’t need it. Lol
The bridge was just resting and you were so casual and confident the height difference, but I wasn’t and just put my trust in you. Lolol
Nope !