ifi iDefender 3.0 Review & Demo: Breaking a GPU Noise Ground Loop
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- An in-depth review, explanation and real-world demonstration of the ifi iDefender 3.0 Ground Loop Breaker USB device.
● Join the Discord and support the channel! / lachlanlikesathing
Here's the TLDW of this: yes, it works. You can watch this overly long video to see why it works, when you might use it, and what difference it can make!
had the same issue. I opened up my usb cable and cut the voltage plus and minus strands. So in the end only the two data strands were connected to the dac. Solved my issue.
Thank you. I also have a ground loop hum and this is the first of three videos on USB filters I found which wasn't some quack claiming it "improved the clarity of the vocals".
Hello, so if my DAC is USB powered this would not solve my noise issue since this thing is cutting off the power from the USB right?
@@bh11nd There is a port on this product to add power from another source back into the chain.
@@bh11nd iFi sells a 5v power cable that plugs into the Defender to re-introduce power. I recommend buying them in a bundle instead of separately, since the power cord is expensive. 5V USB C
Start at 11:28. You're welcome.
preach
Lolol much appreciated man
for real lool
If I hadn’t read the comments. I would have escaped the video..... lol
I watched the whole video, educational and I enjoyed it cuz i like to be thorough. Ground loops i heard can be tricky, so i wanted to hear his situation completely
its great when you (we) buy super expensive sound gear and it seems like things are getting worse in terms of mains hum or interference noise.
I've been experiencing the same issue with my monitors since I bought them. Since I'm using RCA>XLR cables, I figured the reason it was happening was because I was not using a fully balanced connection. Thank you for shedding light on the ground loop issue. Since you mentioned it in your last video, I've been looking forward to seeing how this works. I need to confirm whether or not it works with my DAC and if it does then I will buy it.
Yeah, originally I had thought that going balanced would solve many noise issues, but it doesn't seem to be the case. It should work with your DAC if it's mains powered, or if you use an external power supply (ungrounded would probably be ideal)
Just bought one for my studio setup. My audio interface would make a buzzing sound like interference, once I plugged the device in the buzzing was gone , 100% recommend
HC where did you plug it in the chain? Interface > iFi > computer?
@@AGUIDA It's a USB stick.
What audio interface do you use it with? I m also interested to try it out.
Thank you. Finally somebody with brains doing this.
Im sick of hifi crazies.
Take an old USB cable…cut Only the red wire, then clamp a magnet ferrite where you have cut it...to cover the cut (estethic)
If it need power then drive the power just the side of your device not from computer.
I achieved the same effect by getting a USB Y-splitter, covering the power pins of one connector (using duct tape. it's the 2 longer side pins, leftmost and rightmost), plugging that one into my PC, and plugging the other one into a power adapter.
That's a pretty big fail on Queststyle's behalf. They're supposed to have a circuit inbuilt to remove any ground noise before it's amplified. The DAC/amp I use, the Audio-gd NFB-15, never has any noise issues and my PC has an extremely noisy ground. I think you may want to look into upgrading the Queststyle to something better.
a lot of dacs don't isolate the usb power even if they are powered by mains as they use it as a 5v trigger to automatically turn on the dac when the pc comes on thats in my case anyway, not too sure about the questyle
TheWretchedWorld that's just bad design choices. When you pay upwards for $500 for a headphone DAC you expect it to be designed to work with a PC without issues. After all, that's its purpose.
hmm interesting!. thanks!
I'm not too familiar with the R2R resistor ladder DACs but it doesn't seem to come with the Non-feedback ACSS analog amplifiers, so maybe that design doesn't allow for noise filtering? It's a completely discrete DAC design, so not the same as a DAC chip.
I would suggest trying to run Coax or Optical to see if maybe the issue only on the USB power rails.
So I just got this device. I exactly the same ground loop when the gpu becomes active. In my case not only did it not work, but it also introduced a new hissing sound. I'm going to lift the ground of the wall plug where my audio setup (including USB dac) is plugged.
I just wanted to ask if you ever got this issue fixed? Im having the same issue with GPU hum though usb
@@Frosttyy12 not really, this device didn't help much (only reduces part of it when plugged with a power supply)
@@Dexterprog I wonder is the 3.0 and 2.0 have something to do with it because this device is 3.0 and I hear they aren't compatible. take an old cable and cut the + and -
I had the same problem. However, I noticed that after hitting the computer case, the noise stopped for a while. I looked at the computer's power supply. The grounding is led out from the power supply housing and then through the screws securing it in the housing. My metal casing is painted black and probably doesn't ground the power supply properly. I ran an additional ground wire from the power supply to the unpainted part of the case. The noises have completely disappeared.
Bro did percussive maintenance.
its because usb is a floating point ground and the amp is plugged into actual earth ground. the floating point ground is slightly above earth ground causing a dc offset between the amp and the usb device. if you ground the usb to earth ground it will place the ground level at the same level as the amp. thats what this is designed to solve. yur supposed to plug a grounded 5 volt power supply into it.
Very well said makes much more since
I just bought the Ifi defender and it worked perfectly for my problem. Im using a scarlett solo 4th gen, yamaha hs8s and hs5 with trs cables. In short, I only had a hissing when my scarlett was plugged to my pc. Since I installed the ifi defender, hissing is gone. If you unplug your Dac from your pc and you still have hisses, don’t buy the ifi defender… The problem is not coming from your pc. Anyway that’s my logic and I’m a noob on the subject. Hope it helps !
I have the same problem connecting my amp to the computer speakers using the 3.5mm audio out , I tried a cheap USB to 3.5mm DAC and it helped with the background noise. Sometimes I still get a quick buzz . I am going to try your little expensive gizmo , hope it eliminates the noise completely
I had the same problem. I just wrapped the outside of the male connector with electrical tape to isolate it from the pc case and that fixed the issue for me. Blissful silence and no money spent.
Hey Joey, I am getting very similar noise as shown in this video.
Electrical tape on the USB male connector that goes into PC's USB port, just worked flawlessly for you?
If that's the case, then you are brilliant.
I am going to try this myself.
Please tell me more about your experience in detail if you have time.
@@ratedrsuperstarthega I got constant noise from moving the mouse around, you know this binary sounding beeping/hissing,as well as something that sounded like coil whine from my graphics card coming from the speakers. I just traced the issue back by unplugging stuff backwards, starting at the speakers and eventually ending up at the USB panel at the I/O of the mainboard. My guess is that it's some kind of ground loop or similar issue. But yeah, a simple wrap of the male end of the USB cable ended up fixing it for me. The metal bit of that connector is used for interference shielding of the cable, at least with the one I got. Depends on the quality of the cable. Take a Multimeter and probe both ends doing a diode/continuity test, it should beep if it's the same with yours. Hope this helped, good luck!
@@raddel123 Thanks for the reply sir. So, you do know what you are doing.
I was checking the USB wire diagram, and it's said that the ground wire is INSIDE the wire insulation along with 3 other wires. Total 4 wires. While the metal bit of the wire end which plugs into the port is connected to shielding. So if it's a ground loop issue, Will just wrapping the metal part of wire stop the ground loop? Since the ground is still connected inside the cable.
I have exactly same problem like your. I get a lot of noise which is hissing, interference, computer digital noise and like whining. But I don't have a GFX card connected to my PC. So don't know what's causing this.
I'll try your method right now and see if works.
@@raddel123 I tried the wrapping method like you described. I tested before wrapping, there was continuity between both the metal bits on both side of wire.
Then I wrapped the male side with tape and tested and there was no continuity.
But there was no reduction in noise after plugging this cable. All is same.
I then tested, I see the 4th pin - Ground pin INSIDE the wire and the metal bit are both the same. That means even if we cover the outside metal (shielding), the ground current flows through the 4th wire inside.
That means shield and groundwire are the same.
@@ratedrsuperstarthega My DAC has its own power supply, meaning the only pins that connect it to the PC are the signal carrying ones 2 & 3. Pins 1 & 4 therefore are floating in my case. There still is an earth connection from the port to the power cable for the shielding. Both my DAC and PC are connected to the same power strip, so if I were to remove the tape from the connector, there would be a path for a ground loop again. Another thing you could try to determine whether or not you have a ground loop is to lift the ground from your receiving device, i.e. tape over the earth pins on its power plug !!!THIS IS POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS AND YOU SHOULD NOT TOUCH THE DEVICE WITH YOUR BARE HANDS WHEN YOU DO THIS!!! This should only be done for testing and only for a short time.
How to: First, disconnect all cables from your receiving device (the one you connect via USB to the PC). Tape over the ground connectors of the power cable DO NOT TOUCH IT NOW, POTENTIAL RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK! Plug in only the power cable with the taped over ground connectors. Now test for continuity between the metal casing and your PC (any exposed bit of metal works), there should be no continuity. Disconnect the power plug again for safety reasons. Connect the USB cable to your device and the PC, connect the power cable again. Now test for continuity the same way you did before. You should get a reading now. Note: If you have other devices connected other than the PC, you'll also have to remove their grounds as well. Now check if the noise is gone. Remember: Even though you have a ground via the USB cable and PC, DO NOT TOUCH the device.
Another maybe easier solution, is to switch to optical toslink instead of USB to achieve galvanic isolation between both devices.
I would like to share my experience with using ifi iDefender + (newer version) and support this video (Maybe It will help someone).
My connection is very similar like in this video. In addition, I have a sub between monitors and an audio interface:
PC >-U-S-B -> Audio Interface (Focusrite Scarlett 6i6 gen 2) >-X-L-R-> Subwoofer (Adam Audio Sub7) >-X-L-R-> Monitors (Adam Audio A5X's).
I suffered with the same problem. The unpleasant noise which appeared when a GPU started using more performance. Most of this noise was reproduced by the sub and smaller portion by the monitors.
Firstly, I replaced RCA cables to XLR cables. It only attenuated noise in the monitors, but not completely. I even tried to solder EMC XLR connectors. However, this didn't solve the problem. After that, I bought this ifi stick and put it between PC and audio interface and the noise was attenuated even in sub, but it was still hearable. Finally, I tried to power ifi stick externally via USB-C cable and it started work perfectly. Sub and monitors do not reproduce any unpleasant sound and everything is absolutely clear.
Are you still able to run all channels of the focusrtie. I understand these things may limit USB throughput.
thanks for posting this, my old ass saffire 6 USB + similar setup to you started to do this when I started rearranging some things in the studio. It has come and gone over the years but it is starting to get a little worse so I am going to try this approach.
Hi Poisy DEVIL, could you please clarify what you meant at the end there? ("tried to power ifi stick externally via USB-C"). Thanks.
@@AudioAssassin did you figure it out?
what 5v power supply are you using
Incredible vid - Yes I also have a USB DAC and amp, 1080 Ti and get this same issue when scrolling on Reddit! Going to check this device out, thanks!
bro, you still have the krk 4 gp3, I would be interested to buy them or you know of someone or to get one of those measure 4
Great video! This was the one that helped me understand that it is a loop caused from the ground wire from the computer and the ground wires from the studio monitors. But you don`t need this adapter! The solution does not cost any money! I just eliminated the ground wire pin from the plugs which power the studio monitors and the noise was gone! Could have done it to the computer, but I prefer to do it to the speakers, because the ground wire there is less important. Thank you for the idea!
Have fun with that house fire.
That is a terrible suggestion.
minidisc rocks! You guys are always so helpful and informative. Its very much appreciated.
Really glad I sat to listen to this all the way through.
TL'DR big takeaway I was going to buy the IFI for an USB powered DAC.
-___-
That's not gonna work xD
it fixed my issue but it changes the sound for me, seems like it increases the highs and reduces sub bass
I had a USB noise issue and couldn't figure it out. Went back to my Furutech manual (who would have thought to read the manaul!?) and they actually suggested just using an external powered USB port if it happens. I haven't had a problem since. So may be a cheaper option to try for people looking for a solution.
which one would your recommand ?
External powered usb didn't do anything to improve my issue for those reading. I've purchased the iDefender and their 5v power supply. I'll update once it comes in if anyone is on this old video and is curious.
I had the same problem but as soon as I took my USB coming from my audio interface and plugged it into the USB that supplies power the one that acts like a charging port the problem went away. Make sure your computer comes with a dedicated USB charging port. Clean audio no noise anymore👌
No one seems to be making any mention here of the fact that most PC power supplies that come with a store-bought PC are absolute garbage, built using the cheapest, low-end internal components possible. One of the nice things about either building your own PC or buying an off-the-shelf one that uses all industry standard PC components is that you can easily replace and upgrade any component in the system at any time. Whenever I buy a new system (or build one custom) I immediately replace the default power supply with a much more expensive one that's constructed using far higher quality internal components. If you have a system that is introducing noise every time your GPU is active you are very likely dealing with a system power supply that is incapable of delivering both sufficient power and sufficiently clean power that you require for proper operation (Hint: hearing audible noise through your speakers when a GPU kicks in and operates is something that should never happen). Rather than trying to take noise off of a ground loop with a $50 USB isolator/ground loop breaker, maybe your first step should instead be to make sure that you even have a high enough quality power supply in your system to begin with that can actually deliver enough (clean) power? A good quality replacement PC power supply built to far higher standards than the factory default one that comes with a new system can be purchased for anywhere from about $90 to $175, depending on how much power you need/want. That's always money well spent. Before trying to solve any audio problems with this type of after-market device, I'd make absolutley certain that I first had a very good, high-quality power supply running in my computer to begin with. Because I've always taken that step first, I've never had any type of noise issues using external speakers or headphones, regardless of the external DACs/amps that I've used. The other thing that can potentially help deliver slightly cleaner/less noisy power to your power supply is to replace your default (cheap) power cable with a far higher-grade oxygen-free one. A good OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) PC power supply cable can be purchased for anywhere from around $29 to $69 and is also money very well spent if your objective is to be able to get the cleanest possible audio out of your system.
All copper cables are made using OFC. There's no other method for their construction. It's like marketing water as H20 and pretending it's a new innovative way to make it. With respect to PSU' in PC's they are in most if not all cases switch mode power supplies [SMPS]. All SMPS have a common design issue in that they create RF interference and electromagnetic interference.. It's nothing to do with quality - it's a design issue due to the switching. A linear PSU doesn't have this issue and that's why they are preferred for high end audio application. The main issues with Linear PSU's are inefficiency and their sheer size. The difference between a decent and a poor SMPS is usually down to the components used in the feedback circuit to control voltage and more obviously the transistors used for switching. But even with a lot of shielding and attention to detail they are never going to compete with a linear designed PSU for audio applications.
I have a Schiit Wyrd with my Fulla 2. It did remove a strange buzzing when I move my mouse around but otherwise didn't fix my ground loop power issue which was to be expected. Sound sounds more consistent and also cleaner? I'm not sure if it makes a huge difference but I think everyone should have one anyway due to a cleaner digital source.
I've had issues with noise on a Dell laptop.
The simplest way, is a powered USB hub. To ensure noise is not introduced via the crappy power supply of the USB hub... Use a power brick to drive it.
It's usually really dirty PSUs that are the culprit. Or in the case of my Dell laptop, it's the charging management circuits just chucking out interference like it was confetti.
@@parasiteunit It was power-related. I was getting noise from my wall outlet. Using a power conditioner fixed it.
Doesn't helped one bit by itself with heavy GPU (1080 Ti) generated noise. I have a USB powered Presonus AudioBox iTwo DAC connected via 6.3 mm jack balanced cables to a of selfpowered/amped pair of studio monitors (Eris E8). Yet I have managed to deal with this problem in using it in alternative way.
1) I have taped the 5V and GND pins with insulating tape of a USB extender cord, that left only the two data pins on the USB connected to the motherboard
2) I have connected the DAC USB cable to the extender with the ifi Defender+ in the middle, so I can deliver a power to the DAC through the Defender+ and not powering it from the PC.
To be honest I wasn't sure if I should have bought the iSilencer+ instead. Since the GPU indused noise is more like EMI/RFI indused, not a ground loop one.
And trust me I have tried many things including - getting two different mother boards, two different GPUs, two different PSUs, nothing have helped.
Would a DIY USB cable with(out) with an equal pinout does the same job as the iDefender 3?
Are those Mogami XLR Interconnects?
Cheers
Wow interesting video. Have you tried their iGalvanic?
I need to ask just to clarify. I have an audio interface (Focusrite Scarlett 2i2) connected to my laptop by the USB port. I will connect the iDefender to my laptop and the USB cable of the interface. Do i need to connect it to a power suppy?
It is so damn expensive because the used usb chip inside. I bought mine for about 10 euro's straight from the source in china and saves me allot of money. It is actually an isolated DC/DC converter (in fact a 1:1 PWM transformer) and a chip to isolate the bus lines. It is that complicated because usb requires the same ground path to be working, so it needs a 'conversion' trick. What you hearing (jitter) is a compound of the digital ground produced inside the computer. In fact it is not a fault of the computer hub, it's inside the huge usb soundcard. You can test this with a multimeter, if the RCA ground is connected to the USB GND pin and/or USB connector shield, they saved some dollars to do it right.
Learn to spell "a lot" fuck me.
Is this happening with the Topping A90? I was thinking of running it strait off my PC with a 3.5mm to duel rca from my line out. Will I get this ground loop I am hearing about?
Now that's what I call a real review. Thank you.
If that's all it does is disconnect the power lines, then you could probably take a pair of tweezers and pull out the + wire in the USB cable. You can even put some super glue over the + wire, it's on the end so....It might just work and save about 60 bucks. Everybody has 10 cables laying around.
Have almost identical setup - PC, USB DAC, Active speakers, but iDefender did nothing to fix the buzzing sound. When i remove grounding from speakers, no buzz at all - so it is a multiple ground issue. You can almost buy a decent DAC for 50 €.
I just bought the "Ifi iDefender+" but the USB port of my laptop doesn´t recognize/detect it (error code #43). With a direct cable type-B works fine. It´ll be necessary to change the cable????. Or this device need to set any driver for running...or I must update something???. I'm using windows 11. Thanks in advance!!!.
I have the CMA400i with the Exact same Mogami Gold XLR cables going into my monitors and suffer the same issue. Do you know any other iFi products that cuts the ground and does all the good stuff like re-clocking, filtering etc. As I'd be interested in solving my problem that way. I like the idea of an AIO solution.
Its is okay to buy these idefender if my setup isnt any ground loop?? Currently im using e17k to my pc and planning to upgrade to ifi nano idsd bl and i want to buy the idefender together for save shipping cost , my home electricity isnt grounded (in my country its common for most electric isnt grounded) ..should i get idefender or jitterbug??
Wouldn’t it make more sense if I just buy xlr/tsr noise isolator and be done with it? My 4090 has insane coil-whine and it comes through via USB C going to my Focusrite.
I have the exact same issue, although the sound comes through my stax amp. If i load the gpu up with furmark the sound gets loud and is audible even at low volumes. Did it completely get rid of it or did it just reduce it to a level where its no longer audible at normal listening volumes?
As far as I can tell, noise from the activity of the GPU is gone. There is still some background noise when using sensitive IEMs on the balanced out of the CMA400i, but that was always there and mostly seems to be from the amp.
just got it in the mail fixed my noise, great product
Oh that's really awesome to hear! I'm glad it worked for you. All the noise is gone?
lachlanlikesathing yep completely gone. Volume maxed with the Stax energiser with nothing playing and I can't hear a thing. Before I could hear noise at 30 to 40 percent. Tbh this is a must have product for anyone using USB DACs just to avoid potential ground loops.
Thank you @@TheWretchedWorld
Does it work with Behringer uphoria um2?
I don't doubt that it works in most cases, however I picked one up and it did not fix my ground noise. What's the next step I should take?
So mutch thing to check before:
All cable shield, and if the computer make noise then
Take a cable and take off red wire out (Cut-it) and use another power supply.
i mean the audio USB cable
Etc…
yes it works and the idea is very straightforward, which is removing the power pins in the USB connection, and only leaving the data pins.
however this is how the 1st grade of the electronics school would implement it, just as a proof of concept.
now, the most elegant implementation of the same idea, is by using the Adum3160 chips, and the monolithic air core transformer component, which does just that. it physically separates the incoming signal from the outgoing signal.
not only that, it actually cleans the incoming signal, and sends a better version of it to the output, like a repeater or mini amplifier.
it allows 12 Mbps data transfer rate bidirectionally. so it is not capable of USB 3.0 4.8 Gbps data transfer rate, to work continuously through such USB signal isolator.
so if you are connecting a very high data transfer device, you must bear it in mind, that Adum3160 chip won;t be able to keep up.
however for the Audio Interface, USB 2.0 data transfer rate is sufficient for the 18x 24 bit channels simultaneously, so you should be safe there, unless you are working on a big mixer with more than 18 signals being consolidated into one USB connection.
also for the USB MIDI, the data transfer is 30 kbps, so you don't need to worry about USB 2.0 for the MIDI operation over USB connection.
I actually prefer the Adum3160 chip, which is the actual transformer, physically isolating input from output, and only sending / receiving the actual data, and filtering everything else, which is ideal.
And it only costs ~USD13, if you want to check it out.
amzn.to/3IB224k
@Dorkaholic go ahead
do you think this would work for white noise in Wireless gaming headset ?
I have this exact same problem with my Questyle CMA400i and my Macbook Pro Mid 2015. I bought the iDefender 3.0 and it doesn't work. Still the same ground loop noise...
Did you ever figure any solution?
@@oshtsasquatch295 Yes I did. My Questyle and my Macbook charger were plugged in into one power strip that was plugged into the wall. I plugged the two devices into different power strips and somehow that solved the problem...
@@bobsandee7983 Thanks for the reply. I have ordered a new soundcard (comes tomorrow) and I think that is what I'll need. I have been through the book (including cutting every single ground in the entire system). Hope the new card works...
I use the schiit wyrd and work so good and good for you but don't confuse bro all powered monitor speakers do noise even the JBL but never goes to the dac/amp.
thats a different type of noise you're speaking of. Active monitors have amp hiss to some degree
CThienV I know bro but never goes to the dac/amp.
what 5v power supply works with this?
What method are you using to connect the speakers to the source? Using balanced TRS/XLR usually eliminates this issue.
I'm using balanced XLR.
thanks... i have the same issues and will try this thingie.
How do you make it work? My interface won’t connect with the defender in the usb
So how will this work if my PC is linked via HDMI or Toslink to my home theater reciever? I have an Onykyo AV Reciever that does link USB audio through PC.
*That’s does not link USB
What's that website you used to test it?
Boa tarde meu notebook é 2.0 a entrada . Esse 3.0 iria servir ?
Save yourself! Skip to this 11.41 !!
Do you have to charge the USB or anything?
I realize that this is an old video, but I think I've run into a similar problem. I'm curious, aside from the noise reduction, did the character of your audio change at all when using the iDefender 3.0?
Also having the same issue. Noise us even worse when trying to game.
old comment but yes it changes the character of audio, increases the high freqs and reduces the bass. It does completely solve my noise issue but I dont like how it sounds at all
Overall good explaination! But "no power transfered" is wrong. Without any power the usb connection would not work. What it does is to put a galvanic break between input and output. So it forward Power but not the distorted power.
This is a thing that most people would need.
I wonder if they sell them in a PCI slot
I know it's 1.5 year later but i tried this today and it reduced the ground loop but it is still there sadly :/
Same issue! Still noisy
why dont you just use a data-only usb cable then ?
Just want to point out - it could have very well been coil whine either way. Almost all computer hardware (most noticeably GPU's and PSU's) have it to a degree. It's just that more times than not, it's at such a high frequency we can't hear it. Your studio monitors could have simply amplified it. It can happen without them being even connected to the computer in question as a matter of fact. All it takes sometimes is simply being on the same circuit breaker, or plugged into the same wall socket.
It isn't coil whine
Just chancec upon your video, just want to ask does the thing work as a regular usb data cable/plug or somwthing. I've been streaming for some time now and i want to use it with DS4 controller (im assuming the button inputs count as data input or transfer), coz when ever im charging my controller i get some static/clicking/hum from my headset. This only happens when im charging and at the same time got have the elgato chat audio cable pluged in to the capture device.
You really should not use front panel USB connectors, the internal wires to those and the board connector are usually junk, also that wire usually runs right across all the electronics is less shielded than other connections.
It bloody worked! Dead silence!
i solved the issue by upgrading my mobo. Had to use toslink to cancel the noise before.
Ok so I bought this and it was total junk fell apart in 1 minute. Is there a better quality one?
I had this issue every time i moved my mouse. I solved it with the Wyred4Sound Recovery
LOL
In your video using the defender supresses the noise caused by the computer. But there's no audio coming from the speaker. What the buyer wants is the desired audio coming from the speaker without thr computer noise. Your video doesn't sho that.
Lovely Hime Amiibo!
Beautiful
49 quid for a passive dongle. outrageous!
Worked for me as well.
Will this work with USB mixers too?
yes
Grab an old USB cable and split the cable with an Exacto and cut the RED WIRE (No Power) and your problem will be resolve.
Like this? ruclips.net/video/jIYjW27VGek/видео.html is it ok to use?
Thake a good USB Cable Just Cut the Red wire...leave other as is....( If your USB Card need to be power by USB cable this is no good) but if you have external power Good!
Mi cable i have split it and cut red wire and place a Ferit bead magnet to hide the split and also it help to eliminate noise.
So damn long, this video should be 1min
hang on a minute you said you had retired from reviews on this channel?!
Good to see that it actually does something! Snakeoil it's not.
an electrician wouldn't really specialize in audio as they deal more with high voltage, focus on electrical safety, pull cables, fix cords, etc. An audio electrical tech, robotics technician (me) or technologist, audio engineer, etc. etc. would all be more qualified to answer this. From my knowledge you could have a direct earth ground (Wall socket, hopefully the earth outside eventually), instrument floating grounds (this will cause noise to feed back to the souce if the ground is not grounded to earth separately. These are also used as a reference signals..bla bla). Anyways, I'd really need to poke around your set up to
Just use balanced TRS cables and you'll have no noise in the first place.
i think you need to apply power supply to break loop :)
Instead of getting out of the mouth we had to do a test with the laptop to hear the difference
what the actual f.... PROBLEM & SOLUTION @ 11:30
omg this is my exact problem
Buy link
HOLY shit it actually fucking works, but let’s be real I really like ifi but can’t you just buy a usb extension cable and cut the power leads hahaha because you don’t need usb external power, so the dongle is pretty useless on its own but if it solves your problem why not.
Not working! Also i use with power adaptor!
How’s compare with audioquest jitterbug?
The Audioquest supposedly deals with jitter and does some noise filtration, but it obviously doesn't do anything drastic like cutting the USB power rail. It was one of the products I wasn't too confident about spending money on.
lachlanlikesathing at least it ain’t as expensive as some of their ludicrous products
you wanna know how to stop this from happening entirely? Break the ground pins off the power cables on the KRKs... DO IT!
Won't that be risky? We can electrocute ourselves and cause a fire hazard.
@@ratedrsuperstarthega Going on 1+ years, zero issues.
@@MichaelBruceTaos I'm happy for you that there are no issues so far. But in my opinion that is because so far you've not had a fault or leakage current yet.
Please take no offense, I'm not trying to instruct you about anything. Just making you aware of potential dangers.
And if you know better, maybe I can do that myself if there's a detailed explanation, I won't electrocute myself someday.
@@ratedrsuperstarthega I have power outtages and surgest all the time. No issues. How the hell are you going to be electrocuted by a speaker sitting in a room?! Trust me 10 years of GODDAMN noise, I would rather throw the speaker in the trash instead of deal with more noise. OR just break the ground pin off the power cable. FIXED
@@MichaelBruceTaos I'm happy that the problem solved for you.
But if the ground pin was not essential, why would the manufacturer design the speaker with 3 prong instead of going with just 2 prong?
Also if there is leakage or fault current into the speaker chassis and we try to switch on the power button on speaker or try to change the cable and we touch the chassis, won't we get a electric shock?
I understand this won't happen everyday. Just a very rare event which can occur once in a blue moon day when there is fault/leakage current.
Why do you think the noise problem occurs in the first place? What is the root cause of this USB noise problem?
that looks alot like the essential phone charger ....
BTW, those monitors are too hyped for mixing ;)
Everybody knows
lool
I really couldn't hear the noise.
Bad design on DAC, it should isolate stuff like that.
I like your accent
you know.. you literally can save yourself $40 and just buy a cheap data-only usb cable. that or take any usb cable you have laying around, cut the cable outer casing open and simply snip the power and/or ground cable..
You honestly only really need an item like this if your usb device does require the usb power, so that way you can use an external low to no noise dc power connection, rather than your pc's noisy usb power...
Well I AM an Electrician. And I kinda Do believe it has something to do with coil whine.
Since when i disconnect my 980tis the USB hum is gone.
I also have very loud crackling noise when i scroll webpages and so on.
Could also be coil whine from the PC PSU but the noise does remind me a lot of the coil buzz you get when having having your GPUs running in a 3D application and using asymmetrical speaker cables.
Anyway. Called Thomann Germany yesterday, they say the problem should not exist and i probably have a defective AI.
With all the information out there its outrageous to me how they can say that.
BUS powered Audio Interfaces are a scam guys at least when you have to get a USB reclocker for at least 100 bucks for it not to make terrible noise all day.
Just get a individually powered Interface like the new Steinberg ones or the Presonus ones.
If you get a buspowered one at least get something like the Black Lion Audio Revolution with a quality power filter.
Hey Thorsten, do you know how this USB works? Is it just about the external Power supply or is there some other magic happening inside? how is the usb killing the noise?
@@lelonl7510 I eventually bought a new interface. But yes it's just about the independent power for the USB bus. Seems like my motherboard (which supposedly is a premium Asus product btw) just has terrible USB power.
You could just splice a regular USB cable and feed in 5V from a power supply from a quality standalone USB supply for all I know.
it should cost £2.99 it is just a cheap adapter that just breaks the ground loop.
Start a company, bro. Nothing you own is priced at its actual component cost.
This video,
is too goddamn long.
I agree, but Lachlan likes the sound of the human voice. Specifically, his own ;)
To be fair. ground loops are a common problem - those who suffer with the affliction will be keen to hear the outcome of this lengthy expose.
I was just thinking the same thing!! Just get to it.
simple answer: your electrical in your home sucks