The fall fig tree sale starts Nov 7th: www.figboss.com/category/fig-trees For more information on winter protection for fig trees, check out this video: ruclips.net/video/Q2pgKCopstA/видео.htmlsi=N3WSXQlYTlYB_328
At the 3:01 part in the video you discuss something very interesting to me but I was left confused. What do you do with a fig tree that has not fully lignified properly? I have container figs. I'm in 7B. I have not dealt with frost yet. Is the idea to let them get hit with frost, lose all the leaves, and then once they are dormant, prune below the green stem area, into the lignified wood, to remove all the soft green areas? Then put them into the garage? This is actually my #1 question. First year growing figs. I've done everything right so far. I want to master my first winter. Thanks!
Hardy Chicago ripens early. You can definitely get a variety that ripens the main crop 10-15 days earlier or 45 days earlier if you're relying on the breba crop. However, your problem is likely not your variety. Instead, you need to assess how many hours of direct sunlight your tree receives, how old it is, and what your winter protection/pruning strategy is. That last part is extremely important. The less pruning you do or the winter does for you, the earlier your figs can ripen. If the winter kills your fig tree to the ground, your figs could ripen 2 months later than they normally would. If the tree is pruned back halfway, it may be a month delay. Just preserving the growth tips and lateral buds (the top 3rd typically of the new growth) can net you a 2 week advantage. Not to mention you'll also preserve any breba buds that could ripen a month earlier.
maybe the Desert king? These ones are known for the breba crop (the first ones that show up during spring) because of BC's climate ..summer isnt long enough (I dont think) to get the summer crop.I also still have the summer fruit on mine.They also dont need a pollinator. Just a thought for you.Cheers
Worst year ever for me for figs here in CT. Lost hundreds if not a thousand figs to creatures and then the fruit Flys/ swd came and wiped out everything. It's become too much to deal with, I had traps set up all over, killed tons of Flys but they just keep coming, netted up all my trees with insect netting leaving no openings, didn't help, and the dam coons just rip that shit open and take what they want which is usually everything halfway ripe to ripe,then the birds and Flys come in. I'm at a loss. Have 41 trees and about to give up the hobby
Hi Ross, the trees you will be selling starting Nov 7. Are they the one you have listed on your store website. Are there other varieties besides what you have on your store that are showing out of stock.
Great video Ross! Thank you for always putting out this content. I’m in Zone 5b in Canada. One of my tress went into full dormancy. My second one through, although dried and wilted leaves, the leaves don’t want to fall off. When you try to pull them off, they don’t come off easily. What’s could this be? We’re already getting -2 temps and leaves should be off by now. Thanks in advance my friend!
What's more important is if the sap flow is returning back into the roots. If you make a cut on the branches and there's little to no white sap, you know the tree can be put away. There's no rush to put them away until you see 15F in the forecast.
I jumped the gun and brought my 3 figs inside 3 weeks ago. Not sure if there’s anything I can do with them. Two of them (Black Mission) have fruit on them that are unripe. Zone 6b
@RossRaddi you mentioned using housing insulation - my fear with that is one good rain and now you have a soggy mess that can promote mold. I assume you use tarps to protect against snow/rain?
good info and right on time. BC lower mainland...zone 8B, we have 2 first year Desert Kings in ground, they grew to @ 20 inches tall. and 2 first year Desert Kings in pots that grew about to @ 3 feet tall and mamma is in a 20 gallon pot with all new growth, My thing is this...unsure when to prune them back once the leaves are all off . Last year I waited till February and mamma was kept in poly tunnel uncovered I wonder how many cool days are needed in dormancy before pruning them back? and once thats done...is it imperative they get no light? Thankyou
If stored in a greenhouse, you want to keep the light out to prevent excess heat waking up potted trees prematurely. Figs don't need chill hours for any reason.
Ideally pruning is preformed right before they wake up or after the winter. However, you can prune whenever you want. If you're growing desert king, pruning will directly remove the fruits for next year, so keep it light, yeah. Specifically, prune the trees with thinning cuts. Not heading cuts.
@@RossRaddi Thankyou, So I've got this shaped into a bowl/bush. I pruned this tree for the first time this past February. I cut the center trunk down to 21" plus the 3 bottom side scaffold branches were pruned so they were angled up to that same height. After the 4 years of no pruning, those branches grew nice and thick so I had a good base, They put on alot of growth this season and most of them are fairly brown. I plan on pruning the new growth on each scaffold to about 30 cm's and am looking to keep about 4 nodes on each of the new growth wood.So you are saying that this can be done at any time? Preferably January'ish :)
Ross, I do have a garage that is not heated has drafts and virtually the same temperature as outside. Any suggestions on over wintering a little miss Figgy in a basement with some heat. I don't want to kill off my fig plant as well as I don't care if I get figs until I figure out a better over wintering solution. Thanks
I was thinking the same thing about the crawl space but ours will go above 40-45 degrees F because the heat ducts are down there. Our dormant fig needs the cool time So when, not if that occurs, the tree will wake up way too early. Where ever you store them, they have to stay below 45degrees. Your garage sounds good, just water them well, mulch them and wrap the pot with some insulation or something like that if temps are going to go too low.And maybe cover it with some burlap to keep the light off.Hope that helps, Im just learning too. I pruned and root pruned my 4-5 year old Desert King for the first time last Feb...got 4 more trees from the cuttings and here I am.
Wait, you said the worst thing you can do is cut most of it back and bury one branch, but you seem to be talking about the benefits of pruning way back. I have a bunch of first year plants in the ground. I wanted to prune them way back. Is that not a good idea?
I interpreted it differently... "worse you could do" = "most aggressive method of protection". It sounds like he was encouraging that method, and I tend to agree
It's a very good practice to prune young fig trees planted in soil way back for at least 1 season. There are two options: 1. Prune every branch to the ground to encourage lots of growth next season and a good base to your tree. 2. If your tree already has a healthy base, instead of wrapping the whole canopy, the bare minimum you should do in cold climates is cover one branch.
It's a very good practice to prune young fig trees planted in soil way back for at least 1 season. There are two options: 1. Prune every branch to the ground to encourage lots of growth next season and a good base to your tree. 2. If your tree already has a healthy base, instead of wrapping the whole canopy, the bare minimum you should do in cold climates is cover one branch.
@@RossRaddi Beautiful. Thanks so much for the clarification. I am going to try to espalier most of them and was planning on doing exactly what I thought you said NOT TO DO. I'm glad it's a beneficial way to handle the pruning. Thanks again!
The fall fig tree sale starts Nov 7th: www.figboss.com/category/fig-trees
For more information on winter protection for fig trees, check out this video: ruclips.net/video/Q2pgKCopstA/видео.htmlsi=N3WSXQlYTlYB_328
Hi Ross. Looking for a black Madeira in pot, but open to suggestions. I'm local.
how far back can you prune them when they go dormant? I'd like to save some of the pruned limbs as cuttings.
At the 3:01 part in the video you discuss something very interesting to me but I was left confused. What do you do with a fig tree that has not fully lignified properly? I have container figs. I'm in 7B. I have not dealt with frost yet. Is the idea to let them get hit with frost, lose all the leaves, and then once they are dormant, prune below the green stem area, into the lignified wood, to remove all the soft green areas? Then put them into the garage? This is actually my #1 question. First year growing figs. I've done everything right so far. I want to master my first winter. Thanks!
I ordered a couple of cuttings and just received them. Should I start the rooting process or wait?
What species of fig do you recommend for zone 6? My Chicago Hardy 1yr old has lots of unripe fruit in November. I need some that ripens earlier.
Hardy Chicago ripens early. You can definitely get a variety that ripens the main crop 10-15 days earlier or 45 days earlier if you're relying on the breba crop. However, your problem is likely not your variety. Instead, you need to assess how many hours of direct sunlight your tree receives, how old it is, and what your winter protection/pruning strategy is. That last part is extremely important. The less pruning you do or the winter does for you, the earlier your figs can ripen. If the winter kills your fig tree to the ground, your figs could ripen 2 months later than they normally would. If the tree is pruned back halfway, it may be a month delay. Just preserving the growth tips and lateral buds (the top 3rd typically of the new growth) can net you a 2 week advantage. Not to mention you'll also preserve any breba buds that could ripen a month earlier.
This article is a comprehensive list of the earliest ripening varieties: www.figboss.com/post/my-favorite-early-fig-varieties
maybe the Desert king? These ones are known for the breba crop (the first ones that show up during spring) because of BC's climate ..summer isnt long enough (I dont think) to get the summer crop.I also still have the summer fruit on mine.They also dont need a pollinator. Just a thought for you.Cheers
Worst year ever for me for figs here in CT. Lost hundreds if not a thousand figs to creatures and then the fruit Flys/ swd came and wiped out everything. It's become too much to deal with, I had traps set up all over, killed tons of Flys but they just keep coming, netted up all my trees with insect netting leaving no openings, didn't help, and the dam coons just rip that shit open and take what they want which is usually everything halfway ripe to ripe,then the birds and Flys come in. I'm at a loss. Have 41 trees and about to give up the hobby
Hi Ross, the trees you will be selling starting Nov 7. Are they the one you have listed on your store website. Are there other varieties besides what you have on your store that are showing out of stock.
Great video Ross! Thank you for always putting out this content. I’m in Zone 5b in Canada. One of my tress went into full dormancy. My second one through, although dried and wilted leaves, the leaves don’t want to fall off. When you try to pull them off, they don’t come off easily. What’s could this be? We’re already getting -2 temps and leaves should be off by now. Thanks in advance my friend!
What's more important is if the sap flow is returning back into the roots. If you make a cut on the branches and there's little to no white sap, you know the tree can be put away. There's no rush to put them away until you see 15F in the forecast.
I jumped the gun and brought my 3 figs inside 3 weeks ago. Not sure if there’s anything I can do with them. Two of them (Black Mission) have fruit on them that are unripe. Zone 6b
Bring them back outside. Put them away once you see 15F in the forecast at night.
Ross, do I need to protect my potted fig trees in zone 9B if the low only gets down to 28/30 degrees? Thanks!
No. You can leave it outside all winter. Lucky you!
What do you do with your potted Smith that won't lignify and wants to keep growing?
Limit pruning to just the tips.
@RossRaddi at what point do you stick it in garage?
@RossRaddi you mentioned using housing insulation - my fear with that is one good rain and now you have a soggy mess that can promote mold. I assume you use tarps to protect against snow/rain?
Gotta put a tarp over top of any sensitive insulation.
Once the ad dormant, I wonder if I can just put them in my camper if that’s enough protection
If the temperature is consistently between 15 and 50F, yeah: www.figboss.com/post/fig-tree-winter-storage
Awesome video. Have you seen invitation of Electric Pole Saws via email today?
good info and right on time. BC lower mainland...zone 8B,
we have 2 first year Desert Kings in ground, they grew to @ 20 inches tall.
and 2 first year Desert Kings in pots that grew about to @ 3 feet tall
and mamma is in a 20 gallon pot with all new growth,
My thing is this...unsure when to prune them back once the leaves are all off .
Last year I waited till February and mamma was kept in poly tunnel uncovered
I wonder how many cool days are needed in dormancy before pruning them back?
and once thats done...is it imperative they get no light?
Thankyou
My Desert King grew 7 feet it's second year here in western Arkansas Zone 7b/8a and this from total winter die back.
If stored in a greenhouse, you want to keep the light out to prevent excess heat waking up potted trees prematurely. Figs don't need chill hours for any reason.
Ideally pruning is preformed right before they wake up or after the winter. However, you can prune whenever you want. If you're growing desert king, pruning will directly remove the fruits for next year, so keep it light, yeah. Specifically, prune the trees with thinning cuts. Not heading cuts.
@@RossRaddi Thankyou,
So I've got this shaped into a bowl/bush.
I pruned this tree for the first time this past February.
I cut the center trunk down to 21" plus the 3 bottom side scaffold branches were pruned so they were angled up to that same height. After the 4 years of no pruning, those branches grew nice and thick so I had a good base,
They put on alot of growth this season and most of them are fairly brown.
I plan on pruning the new growth on each scaffold to about 30 cm's and am looking to keep about 4 nodes on each of the new growth wood.So you are saying that this can be done at any time? Preferably January'ish :)
@@andielliott7721 Thats pretty awesome. I'm amazed at that, must have been well fed too. :)
Can you plant the potted trees in the ground rn?
Yes. Especially in warmer zones 8-10.
Ross, I do have a garage that is not heated has drafts and virtually the same temperature as outside. Any suggestions on over wintering a little miss Figgy in a basement with some heat. I don't want to kill off my fig plant as well as I don't care if I get figs until I figure out a better over wintering solution. Thanks
This article will help you figure that out:
www.figboss.com/post/winterizing-container-fig-trees-where-to-store-them-how-to-avoid-season-ending-setbacks - generally basements spell disaster.
Ideally you want a cold room like under the staircase outdoors, the heat will harm the trees in spring
I was thinking the same thing about the crawl space but ours will go above 40-45 degrees F because the heat ducts are down there. Our dormant fig needs the cool time
So when, not if that occurs, the tree will wake up way too early. Where ever you store them, they have to stay below 45degrees. Your garage sounds good, just water them well, mulch them and wrap the pot with some insulation or something like that if temps are going to go too low.And maybe cover it with some burlap to keep the light off.Hope that helps, Im just learning too. I pruned and root pruned my 4-5 year old Desert King for the first time last Feb...got 4 more trees from the cuttings and here I am.
Wait, you said the worst thing you can do is cut most of it back and bury one branch, but you seem to be talking about the benefits of pruning way back. I have a bunch of first year plants in the ground. I wanted to prune them way back. Is that not a good idea?
I interpreted it differently... "worse you could do" = "most aggressive method of protection". It sounds like he was encouraging that method, and I tend to agree
I agree. This point needs clarifying.
It's a very good practice to prune young fig trees planted in soil way back for at least 1 season.
There are two options:
1. Prune every branch to the ground to encourage lots of growth next season and a good base to your tree.
2. If your tree already has a healthy base, instead of wrapping the whole canopy, the bare minimum you should do in cold climates is cover one branch.
It's a very good practice to prune young fig trees planted in soil way back for at least 1 season.
There are two options:
1. Prune every branch to the ground to encourage lots of growth next season and a good base to your tree.
2. If your tree already has a healthy base, instead of wrapping the whole canopy, the bare minimum you should do in cold climates is cover one branch.
@@RossRaddi Beautiful. Thanks so much for the clarification. I am going to try to espalier most of them and was planning on doing exactly what I thought you said NOT TO DO. I'm glad it's a beneficial way to handle the pruning. Thanks again!
What if I live in the desert?
Zone 8A and below should protect their newly planted fig trees. Same thing with the potted trees if your winter low drops below 15F.
@@RossRaddi good thing I’m 10b :D
how do you keep mice out of the woodchips?
Cats, rodent pellets. Don't add mulch or protect fig trees too soon. It creates a home for them.
@@RossRaddi thank you.