Wow just awesome myfordboy! The flask looks amazing and performs perfectly! I love the design. And thank you so much for the mention too. I'm so glad you enjoyed the videos :)
I learned something today that I had never noticed, and I thank for it. Casting these new flasks, I saw the internal outward ridge on each side. This is something I saw on the wooden ones a hundred times and screams common sense as it help retain the molded sand on each half while they are moved for prep. Perhaps video number 7 some text may had pointed this important design feature, but until this video lesson, I now saw the internal ridges on the wooden ones as well. Something as little as this, to me, was never realized it. This is an important feature and very happy to have seen it as I have always found each video hypnotic, creative and in case, could not see the forest for the trees. Well done. Retired auto technician. Thank you! Learning is always exciting to me. My Fordboy Forever!
@@myfordboy Thank you for using your talents in concert with others input to produce such a new multi-tasking flask. This is part of the true meaning of sharing ideas that lead to improvements in this trade. I have a desire to take your lessons to improve my own projects. I have many joint issues that will require 4 or 5 more surgeries to correct, but that’s just the body and not the mind. Learning your trade and viewing the videos inspire me as well as thousands of craftsman to expect 2% shrinkage in cast aluminum as well of what kind of scrap castings to use. I have mastered automotive repair, yet are planning on creating my own engine brackets for belt driven components. I absolutely adore this level of creation. God bless you and your family, as at least I find you channel and tutorials a blessing. Bless you and your talent!
I second the motion for a work table to prepare the forms. Working on the ground must be awful tough on the back and knees!Great project and thanks for sharing the stl files.
Watching this at 6:30am it dawned on me (pardon the pun) what time it was. I paused the video to double check. Turns out the birds are still tucked up in their nests where I live! Still, I should probably get some sleep...
Nice improvement and compared to Julian, you did not question your design. even if you tested 3 different designs. You made your version in 3D, prep them and cast them, clean and assemble and test them. So you have a winning concept. Great.
Have to give you props for making the Sport Quattro part!! Your making some nice parts out of your garage! I use to work in a prototype foundry for 3yrs as a mold maker. We did sand castings but I mainly did plaster molds. I miss the process but not the work load and unhealthy work environment. Well done sir!! 👍
Wow. Why would I ever pour another ingot again ? This is where all my spare aluminum is going from now on. It is time for me to stop toasting wood. This is incredible. One million thanks.
👍 Please always show more of the post-processing/machining, e.g. deburring, lathe work etc. and of course the finished product, even its installation. Very interesting how such casts are made into precise parts this way.
Nice work on the flasks. Awesome to see an appearance of 3d printed jigs too. So often, 3d printed parts aren't strong enough for final use but make awesome patterns, jigs and moulds
Those look very wizzy, far more high tech. I liked the three different designs you tried initially, a bit like the three bears porridge. However you arrived at the correct section and were off and running. As always, very interesting. Regards
Really nice job. I remember this well! We learned to do aluminum sand casting in High School shop class in Missouri in the mid 80's . Today it would be impossible thanks to insane regulations, air quality measurements etc. By the time senior year rolled around we were told our only future was to go to college, and learn computers! They actually had the giant poster of a guy in a suit with a briefcase and a greasy mechanic in overalls and would point to it. Jerks. Naturally I graduated and had no idea what I wanted to do for a living. It was OK though, In the end I did both most of my life :) The 3d Printers just helped with making molds for the timeless metal sandcasting! I hadn't thought of that use for my CR10's Really awesome Fordboy!
nowdays ya can buy aluminum casting housings, make a plug, get some sand, watch this channel. I been making lead for years. Wish this guy lived in my neighborhood.
Been researching metal casting the past month and now I'm thinking I should look into 3D printing too. Such a cool use for it to make patterns for the molds.
great idea there - could you incorporate 3 locating pins into the casting of the flask sides them selves, where you have made a thick spot to drill the plastic blocks - just get rid of the blocks and include 3 pins at one end and 2 pins at the other side, spaced differently, so as its impossible to put it back the wrong way round.
It is normal to have the locating pins built in but I like the plastic blocks as they give a very positive location and hold the pins. Pins can be removed to make separating the flask easier. There will always be some degree of movement with a metal pin and block. 3 pins is totally unnecessary, 2 will locate it and 3 will just make it harder to align.
The holes would be best marked out using one jig with both holes and the jig referencing the outside machined surface, as the inside cast surface could vary due to the original machining being randomly set on the first cut.
It worked well, but what nags in my mind is what happens in a pouring mishap. Like when a pour bleeds between the green sand layers and welds the flask halves together, or an overflow. Though these would be less of a problem if the flasks were cast in iron and used for aluminium casting as aluminium does not bond to iron.
I believe of the profile was reversed so as to have the outside shape on the inside the finished box will hold the weight of the sand better. especially for the larger sections.
Great vid, I really like it. Im concern about one thing. The setting bolts (the brown and white one) are made of plastic. And the mold can get quite hot during the casting. Wooden, older frame didn't transfer heat as good as aluminum... maybe try to replace it with brass one? ...and the pins are likely to get lost. Maybe make a hole in the pin and put key ring with some holding wire attached to the wall?
If one wants to estimate the weight of a casted part before it is casted, one can do a water displacement test, and weigh the displacer water to derive the volume. And knowing the density of the metal times the volume of water displaced will get you very close to the weight of the casted part. Sure that's a little bit of work, but Its less than casting several parts and uses far less energy. If one may still need to cast several parts to determine if structural strength of an alloy and part design is sufficient.
Really nice. The weight looks acceptable, and it should be nice stable, and not burn :D I was wondering why you didn't integrate the locating blocks from the start in the casting? Then just drill holes to mate the two parts. Is it due to tolerance, or wear maybe?
I am pleased with the flasks. I have 2 now and a set of castings to make a third. I like the plastic blocks for the pins as the pins are gripped and give more positive location than a pin in a metal plate. They can be removed before parting the flasks which makes it easier.
Thank you for the video. Always top notch. Do you 3d print the modesty blocks? Are they available on thingiverse as well, if so? Thank you again for your thorough documentation.
Thank you as always for your fantastic videos! With this project, when we download the .stl, we only have one half of each side. We need a mirror version of each side. Also, you have a 3rd printed part that is an end piece. Are you using that for extra thickness? Do I cast that separately, or glue it to the mold and cast it together? Really appreciate all your instruction!
When you have the STL file in your slicer just do a mirror image of the part, the slicer will have a setting for this. I am using Cura or Prusa slicer. The end caps are glued to the pattern as shown at the beginning of the video.
The quality of your casts and pours is quite excellent, indeed. I am wondering what advantage this gives you over the typical wooden forms? Seems like a lot of material and energy put into something that doesn't actually offer much, if any, advantage over the wooden ones... save perhaps longevity? Even longevity seems dubious because I have wooden forms my grandpa made that are older than I am. I have always used wooden forms, and it is so easy to slap together new ones if the dimensions require it, so I am wondering if there is something I am missing and if it would be worth doing this myself. This isn't a dig at you or your craft, I am just curious is all.
Obviously the metal flask will not make the castings any better! I needed to replace some of my wooden ones as they are damaged from the odd metal spill. The metal one is so much nicer to use, I like nice tools and this is much more professional. Cost wise its no more expensive than making wooden ones if you have to buy the wood.
@@myfordboy A compelling argument, to be certain. I guess I am just a product of my raising wherein I was taught to "make-do" and "wear it out". A mindset I am not always fond of and yet feel compelled to embrace. Perhaps I will reconsider.
myfordboy or anyone else accustomed to aluminium casting. How do you make sure your casting sand isn't having too much moisture in it? Isn't it dangerous if humidity of sand would be too high and water would evaporate right after pouring molten alu into form?
It's down to experience. if it's too wet the moisture turns to steam when the hot metal hits it. My first attempts were much too wet. The sand should hold it's shape when squeezed but not stick to your hand.
Neat idea to cast the flasks to cast stuff in. I am surprised you didn't cast in the alignment pin holders in the sides as well. Maybe another version?
@@myfordboy I think you misunderstood my comment. I wasn't saying to cast the pins with the flask, only the part you drilled and screwed onto the flask. The parts you attacked and drilled through for the pins. Then you could drill through those cast in parts and still use removable pins. Isn't important, just an idea.
Ok understand. The idea though is to use the plastic blocks rather than a hole drilled in the metal as this gives a very positive location that you can't get from a hole in metal.
Sound like a good idea but I think it's flawed. First it would be harder to make. If there is a core involved it's important to lower the cope so as not let the core damage the sand in it. The pins line up the flasks before they meet. With a beveled edge they would only line up properly when completely closed. Also the larger mating surface could make separating difficult.
Have you ever done a casting where you cast it in pieces, like this, but TIG welded it together instead of bolting? I think for this bolting is the best solution, just curious if you ever thought about it for other things.
Awesome job as always, love your work. I appreciate the multiple versions you've tested to get it right. Do you think a trapezoid shape in the walls performs better to hold the sand in place than a semi-circle?
I love watching your videos and learned a lot of different techniques that i use in my casting. I have one question, why do you make modes on the concrete floor? That would hurt my knees and back. Just curious.
Wow just awesome myfordboy! The flask looks amazing and performs perfectly! I love the design. And thank you so much for the mention too. I'm so glad you enjoyed the videos :)
You've been recognized by one the best Julian, congrats!!
And here I go subscribing to yet another channel. haha.
here I was, thinking you're gonna cast some flasks to drink booze out of.
Glad I'm not the only one.
I've looking for these for quite some time and all I could find was the drinking flasks. (Funny)
I learned something today that I had never noticed, and I thank for it. Casting these new flasks, I saw the internal outward ridge on each side. This is something I saw on the wooden ones a hundred times and screams common sense as it help retain the molded sand on each half while they are moved for prep. Perhaps video number 7 some text may had pointed this important design feature, but until this video lesson, I now saw the internal ridges on the wooden ones as well. Something as little as this, to me, was never realized it. This is an important feature and very happy to have seen it as I have always found each video hypnotic, creative and in case, could not see the forest for the trees. Well done. Retired auto technician. Thank you! Learning is always exciting to me. My Fordboy Forever!
Thanks for the comments. The shape of the sides also adds strength as the thickness was reduced to 4 mm to make the flasks lighter
@@myfordboy Thank you for using your talents in concert with others input to produce such a new multi-tasking flask. This is part of the true meaning of sharing ideas that lead to improvements in this trade. I have a desire to take your lessons to improve my own projects. I have many joint issues that will require 4 or 5 more surgeries to correct, but that’s just the body and not the mind. Learning your trade and viewing the videos inspire me as well as thousands of craftsman to expect 2% shrinkage in cast aluminum as well of what kind of scrap castings to use. I have mastered automotive repair, yet are planning on creating my own engine brackets for belt driven components. I absolutely adore this level of creation. God bless you and your family, as at least I find you channel and tutorials a blessing. Bless you and your talent!
I second the motion for a work table to prepare the forms. Working on the ground must be awful tough on the back and knees!Great project and thanks for sharing the stl files.
Great to see Julian HG getting a shout out! He deserves more attention from the community.
I always enjoy the birds chirping in the background during your metal casting videos.
birds chirping happily to encourage good work. love it.
Watching this at 6:30am it dawned on me (pardon the pun) what time it was. I paused the video to double check. Turns out the birds are still tucked up in their nests where I live! Still, I should probably get some sleep...
You are a Hero in the world of casting. Thank you
Enjoy watching your videos. Thank you for sharing.
Nice improvement and compared to Julian, you did not question your design. even if you tested 3 different designs. You made your version in 3D, prep them and cast them, clean and assemble and test them. So you have a winning concept. Great.
That Julian sure started something didn't he :) awesome to see people actually making these, and you did an awesome job 👍👊
Have to give you props for making the Sport Quattro part!! Your making some nice parts out of your garage! I use to work in a prototype foundry for 3yrs as a mold maker. We did sand castings but I mainly did plaster molds. I miss the process but not the work load and unhealthy work environment. Well done sir!! 👍
Wow. Why would I ever pour another ingot again ? This is where all my spare aluminum is going from now on. It is time for me to stop toasting wood. This is incredible. One million thanks.
Pretty cruel to make your old wooden ones create their successors :)
I've been wanting to do the exact same thing. Now that I have a model I will make it happen.
This is why I subscribed. This man has sooo much knowledge to offer ! And its freeee !!
👍 Please always show more of the post-processing/machining, e.g. deburring, lathe work etc. and of course the finished product, even its installation. Very interesting how such casts are made into precise parts this way.
Such meticulous work! Great video.
Nice work on the flasks. Awesome to see an appearance of 3d printed jigs too. So often, 3d printed parts aren't strong enough for final use but make awesome patterns, jigs and moulds
I truly appreciate your combining of traditional and new technology. This is how progress is made.
Made first attempt at these today. I already see what I did wrong and will try again shortly. Thanks again for all your videos!
Those are just gorgeous!
It must be a pleasure to use them!
Those look very wizzy, far more high tech. I liked the three different designs you tried initially, a bit like the three bears porridge. However you arrived at the correct section and were off and running. As always, very interesting. Regards
Loved it! Casting your casting boxes... now that is a brilliant idea!!!
Really nice job. I remember this well! We learned to do aluminum sand casting in High School shop class in Missouri in the mid 80's . Today it would be impossible thanks to insane regulations, air quality measurements etc. By the time senior year rolled around we were told our only future was to go to college, and learn computers! They actually had the giant poster of a guy in a suit with a briefcase and a greasy mechanic in overalls and would point to it. Jerks. Naturally I graduated and had no idea what I wanted to do for a living. It was OK though, In the end I did both most of my life :) The 3d Printers just helped with making molds for the timeless metal sandcasting! I hadn't thought of that use for my CR10's Really awesome Fordboy!
22:38, I see you have done that before, also 22:53 . . stole my move 😅👌 Seriously tho, beautiful castings, they look amazing! Thanks for sharing 👍🏼
His castings always look amazing. Of course we know not all turn out, but I'm sure the majority do and they are awesome.
nowdays ya can buy aluminum casting housings, make a plug, get some sand, watch this channel. I been making lead for years. Wish this guy lived in my neighborhood.
Another quality several pieces of workmanship you have made there Sir. They should stand up to more than enough abuse for years to come, nice
Wow, amazing job you've done there! Thanks for sharing the process with us.
Wish you health and happiness. Thank you for the video :)
Greetings from Brisbane, Australia. You could really use a good casting table with a sand reservoir to catch excess sand. That will save your knees :)
Dave Seff Brisbane Australia ? Isn’t that the home of Archie Luxury?
@@richardscott6716 Don't know. I've not heard of him/her.
Ваши видео с литьем алюминия интересно смотреть! Всегда отличный результат.
Been researching metal casting the past month and now I'm thinking I should look into 3D printing too. Such a cool use for it to make patterns for the molds.
👍 Nice! A tip for upcoming projects, draw a mark for the drilling in your 3d model before printing them.
Good suggestion.
Right on! Love it. I have been thinking of casting some better flasks for a while too:) those look great
Very nice!
great idea there - could you incorporate 3 locating pins into the casting of the flask sides them selves, where you have made a thick spot to drill the plastic blocks - just get rid of the blocks and include 3 pins at one end and 2 pins at the other side, spaced differently, so as its impossible to put it back the wrong way round.
It is normal to have the locating pins built in but I like the plastic blocks as they give a very positive location and hold the pins. Pins can be removed to make separating the flask easier. There will always be some degree of movement with a metal pin and block. 3 pins is totally unnecessary, 2 will locate it and 3 will just make it harder to align.
Hello from greece! I am watching your channel many years! Great work and nise steam models ! Have a good year!
I like how whatever he casted at the end just cracks and breaks off while hes casually hitting the mold material off, lol.
if you notice, that was supposed to happen. It was an internal form, aluminum was cast around it.
like watching a shaman perform magic. amazing!
Excellent video, you are a Master Caster, Sir.
Pretty fantastic result.
The holes would be best marked out using one jig with both holes and the jig referencing the outside machined surface, as the inside cast surface could vary due to the original machining being randomly set on the first cut.
how nice work......💖💖💖
looks like you can drill holes to the top and bottom flask and bolt together to make a deep flask
I see you answered a couple of the questions in the video
Wow, wow, wow,..... Awesome!
i think its time you cast a nice work bench so you not on the floor working, the foundry i worked in had a vibrating table.
Great video David keep up the good work brother 👌🏻👍🏻
Definitely had the wrong flask in mind when I clicked on this video. Nonetheless, it was still interesting to watch.
It worked well, but what nags in my mind is what happens in a pouring mishap. Like when a pour bleeds between the green sand layers and welds the flask halves together, or an overflow. Though these would be less of a problem if the flasks were cast in iron and used for aluminium casting as aluminium does not bond to iron.
Spilt aluminium will not stick to the flasks.
@@myfordboy I hope you're correct.
I am, I have tried it.
DUDE YOU ARE THE KING....
¿¿ podria ud explicar como se prepara la tierra para moldear ''''?????? --- es un placer verlo trabajar -- maravillosa sus manos
Absolutely brilliant. 👏🏽
AWESOME! cheers for posting this amazing video
Fantastic job and a awesome idea 🏆🏆🏆
Beautiful and inspired.
приятно посмотреть на грамотную работу.
They came out really nice :) The only thing I would've done differently is added embossed text.
I have added raised text on some flasks I made later.
The only thing that could possibly make the design any better is quick release clamps on the corners and side.
Awesome video. Your sand looks amazing. Where do you get your green sand?
www.artisanfoundry.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=29&products_id=38
I believe of the profile was reversed so as to have the outside shape on the inside the finished box will hold the weight of the sand better. especially for the larger sections.
The Grand Master
Great vid, I really like it.
Im concern about one thing. The setting bolts (the brown and white one) are made of plastic. And the mold can get quite hot during the casting. Wooden, older frame didn't transfer heat as good as aluminum... maybe try to replace it with brass one?
...and the pins are likely to get lost. Maybe make a hole in the pin and put key ring with some holding wire attached to the wall?
The sides do not get hot at all, the sand insulates the heat from the casting.
@@myfordboyGood to know, always though that the sand transfer the heat outside after a while... but the cast is out rather quite quickly I suppose
Really appreciate...
Can you please do Hubmotor side panels...?
Bike pulley etc... Thank you
It's not something I need.
Good Work
If one wants to estimate the weight of a casted part before it is casted, one can do a water displacement test, and weigh the displacer water to derive the volume. And knowing the density of the metal times the volume of water displaced will get you very close to the weight of the casted part. Sure that's a little bit of work, but Its less than casting several parts and uses far less energy.
If one may still need to cast several parts to determine if structural strength of an alloy and part design is sufficient.
Good suggestion. You can also derive the volume of the part directly from the CAD model.
@@myfordboy Awesome. Is that feture available on virtually all cad programs. I've only done a little work in blender so I'm not familiar.
@@kreynolds1123 I use ViaCad and its a feature.
@@myfordboy Thank you!
I really wish I could buy some of these from you directly.
One suggestion or request please add a length of side without the end piece and kindly add an STL of the mirror image?
Really nice. The weight looks acceptable, and it should be nice stable, and not burn :D I was wondering why you didn't integrate the locating blocks from the start in the casting? Then just drill holes to mate the two parts. Is it due to tolerance, or wear maybe?
I am pleased with the flasks. I have 2 now and a set of castings to make a third. I like the plastic blocks for the pins as the pins are gripped and give more positive location than a pin in a metal plate.
They can be removed before parting the flasks which makes it easier.
Well now it's time to cast an aluminum scraper for the set.. instead of old wooden one ))
Wondering what the difference between the feeder and risers are. Thanks!
You pour into the feeder and the metal fills the mould and risers up the riser. Both will feed the mould with metal as it cools and shrinks.
The method is very fast for few pcs samples, very good way
Doesn't look like you'll be remaking those. You could also attach the locating pins on the side with a bit of chain so they can't be lost.
the new water soluble print material. could it be useful to develop a new way of casting. Love your work.
what a fantastic Idea!
Thank you for the video. Always top notch. Do you 3d print the modesty blocks? Are they available on thingiverse as well, if so? Thank you again for your thorough documentation.
No they are not printed. They are cheaply availability here in the UK.
Thank you as always for your fantastic videos! With this project, when we download the .stl, we only have one half of each side. We need a mirror version of each side. Also, you have a 3rd printed part that is an end piece. Are you using that for extra thickness? Do I cast that separately, or glue it to the mold and cast it together? Really appreciate all your instruction!
When you have the STL file in your slicer just do a mirror image of the part, the slicer will have a setting for this. I am using Cura or Prusa slicer.
The end caps are glued to the pattern as shown at the beginning of the video.
I dig the bird soundtrack in the background...
My favorite sound on the Myford Boy's videos is the baaahing of sheep in the background
The quality of your casts and pours is quite excellent, indeed. I am wondering what advantage this gives you over the typical wooden forms? Seems like a lot of material and energy put into something that doesn't actually offer much, if any, advantage over the wooden ones... save perhaps longevity? Even longevity seems dubious because I have wooden forms my grandpa made that are older than I am. I have always used wooden forms, and it is so easy to slap together new ones if the dimensions require it, so I am wondering if there is something I am missing and if it would be worth doing this myself. This isn't a dig at you or your craft, I am just curious is all.
Obviously the metal flask will not make the castings any better! I needed to replace some of my wooden ones as they are damaged from the odd metal spill. The metal one is so much nicer to use, I like nice tools and this is much more professional. Cost wise its no more expensive than making wooden ones if you have to buy the wood.
@@myfordboy A compelling argument, to be certain. I guess I am just a product of my raising wherein I was taught to "make-do" and "wear it out". A mindset I am not always fond of and yet feel compelled to embrace. Perhaps I will reconsider.
Beautiful!
nice, very nicely done
I am surprised you haven't built a bench for mold making
Maestro..!! 👍✨
what is the weight of the cast Flasks, versus your wood ones of the same size?
They are twice as heavy as my wood ones but the wood used was pretty soft and poor. Easily managed though, not too heavy.
myfordboy or anyone else accustomed to aluminium casting. How do you make sure your casting sand isn't having too much moisture in it? Isn't it dangerous if humidity of sand would be too high and water would evaporate right after pouring molten alu into form?
It's down to experience. if it's too wet the moisture turns to steam when the hot metal hits it. My first attempts were much too wet. The sand should hold it's shape when squeezed but not stick to your hand.
Neat idea to cast the flasks to cast stuff in. I am surprised you didn't cast in the alignment pin holders in the sides as well. Maybe another version?
No, this design works how i want with removable pins.
@@myfordboy I think you misunderstood my comment. I wasn't saying to cast the pins with the flask, only the part you drilled and screwed onto the flask. The parts you attacked and drilled through for the pins. Then you could drill through those cast in parts and still use removable pins. Isn't important, just an idea.
Ok understand. The idea though is to use the plastic blocks rather than a hole drilled in the metal as this gives a very positive location that you can't get from a hole in metal.
How about beveling the edges, negative and positive. So the top and bottom halves will fit together. Then the locating pin will be obsolete.
Sound like a good idea but I think it's flawed. First it would be harder to make. If there is a core involved it's important to lower the cope so as not let the core damage the sand in it. The pins line up the flasks before they meet. With a beveled edge they would only line up properly when completely closed. Also the larger mating surface could make separating difficult.
Have you ever done a casting where you cast it in pieces, like this, but TIG welded it together instead of bolting? I think for this bolting is the best solution, just curious if you ever thought about it for other things.
I don't do welding!
@@myfordboy Fair enough - you're certainly an expert at casting. You do beautiful work!
Thanks for the video.
My grandpa used to make lead toys I wish I had never sold those molds...
Awesome job as always, love your work. I appreciate the multiple versions you've tested to get it right. Do you think a trapezoid shape in the walls performs better to hold the sand in place than a semi-circle?
The shape works well.
Hey, those came out great!
23:20 from what material did you make these inserts ? is the purpose to have a tubing basically a hollow piece??
what if you didn't do that?
These are cores. Made like this: ruclips.net/video/i1bc8IU42zU/видео.html
Used when a casting has a hollow centre.
I am in Australia and would like to know where i can buy the modesty blocks you used in the video please. Grate video thanks.
Available in DIY stores here in the UK. Can't help with an Australian supplier.
I love watching your videos and learned a lot of different techniques that i use in my casting. I have one question, why do you make modes on the concrete floor? That would hurt my knees and back. Just curious.
I don't have room for a fixed bench. You need a hard rigid surface. I have knee pads in my trousersand working on the floor is no problem to me.
Excellent 👏👍👌❤️
Did you 3d print your pattern? Did you publish it? Also how long an wide is the pattern?
I just make a cube of sand and pour aluminum around it. Makes perfect flasks every time.
Do you have a video of your process?
Great work. However I cannot understand how your knee's manage it?
Excelente video! Saludos desde argentina
getting fancy, i see