Nice result Andrew. I am sure that you are giving a lot of thought to how you will hold the cylinder accurately for boring. That seems to be the crucial element in this job. Clearly the part will need to be held rigid not only in line but also at exactly the right height. I look forward to seeing your solution.
If using a 4 jaw Chuck with a highly offset object the vibration can cause problems with the turning or drilling diameter. As well as screeching and a lot of vibration. It’s easy with a face plate to add weights to even things up but a problem on a 4 jaw. So I make up a small block to fit between the short end of the work and it’s jaw. Ideally to match the same size as the long end. I use a scissor knurling tool to add some grip to the sides that contact the jaw and the work. I also mill a small half round into one side so that the jaw point sits in it making a better clamping action. I have about 5 of these made to different sizes and generally one of them fits close enough for any new job. I am a firm believer of spending a little extra time creating a jig, thingie, doodat or widget to make life easier, so often they get used repeatedly. Several of the Stuart engines use common or similar parts so for those I spend a little more time on my widgets. Steve
wow, really involved to make a nice line bore tool. looks great! I was just going to jam a small bit in a hole in a rod and measure, tap measure tap tap until I had it right haha. I have a big cylinder to do and it's really imbalanced so I wanted to try line boring it
If worried about threading with a split die, you can use the splitting screw to open up the die for a first go, check out the threaded piece with a nut and then close up the split dies appropriately and go over again.
@@learningturningmetal are you still looking for flywheels? I have a box full and seem to remember a pit for hit n miss engines, can sort out photos if interested steve
Hi Steve - many thanks for the offer. I managed to get hold of a pair off ebay (pedelee56). They look to be very close to the drawing dimensions. The only issue is that the drawings show the hubs extending beyond the outer rims - so I think I will need to modify them slightly. Thanks again for the offer. All the best. Andrew
Andrew. Well done, turned out great. When you come to bore the cylinder liner, any thoughts on how you will hold it to your cross slide. ? Perhaps a vee block. Even a better idea is if you have a piece of hardwood, clamp it down, bore it out using the new bar to sleeve OD. You will then know that the sleeve when fitted will be on center. As you will only be removing a few thou, a couple of decent woodscrews through the block to pinch the sleeve to prevent it rotating or moving.
Thanks Dave. I had been thinking of using a pair of v-blocks for the base and have already made a clamp for the cross slide. However your idea of using hardwood has really got me thinking. It's a great suggestion. I need to give it some serious cosideration. All the best. Andrew
Hi Andrew, that is a useful adjustment tool. Never used one in my day at all. It was always a dial indicator to move the c/tool in or out. This tool would work a treat.
4 года назад+1
Another fantastic video. Discover the channel a few days ago and I've seen almost all the videos and subscribed to the channel. I also have a lathe and a milling machine but I still need to buy some tools to get started. At the moment my channel is about building wooden boats made from plans. Many congratulations on your channel. In the future it will give me a lot of help.
The way you have shown to bar, one will have to remove the carrier to install and remove the micrometer. Could one install the micrometer on the other side of the cutter to simplify the removal of the micrometer before the turning operation?
Hi. Most of my reamers were purchased from arc euro trade. They appear good quality and I've not had any problems. I only wish I got commission 😭 Cheers Andrew
Well done! So faar I have no clue about how this beaytiful piece of work will be used, One remark! Be careful videoing manuals. I think about the copyright rules. So much work setting the rotary table up…. But the result is greate. I've done it myself, making a radious on some crapy looking clamps but the radious was really needed for them…
Thanks Stefan. I do try to avoid showing any detail on drawings unless the copyright owner gives me permission, but I fully understand where you are coming from. Some owners allow me to use my discretion. Yeah setting up the rotary table can be a chore but it really pays off when you see the end result. Take care. Andrew
Gah literally the only reason i watched this was to see it being used when finished lol. Nice work but run your machine slower when drilling or turning something unbalanced
HI Andrew. I have just put a three part video up on RUclips, on making a line boring jig. Take a look and I'd appreciate your feedback. Chopper 316 in the UK
Sorry Andrew. While the subject is interesting, by 07:00 I had to retreat. I wasn't going to sit through another 20 minutes of watching you prep the end of the rod. The breaker came at 07:10 when you destroyed that drill bit..... Nope, not the sort of thing for me.
That's not a between centre boring bar with one end in the chuck. Expensive way of doing things, a bar and a lathe dog would do the same and use a mike to set the cutter.
Hi mate. I didn't show the boring bar in use, but I had to use a chuck to make it. I know it's not the cheapest boring bar solution but I liked the idea of making a simple micrometer, and I thought others might find it of interest too. It got me to try new things out too. I hope to use the boring bar in my next video. All the best. Andrew
@@learningturningmetal You obviously like taking the expensive route to get round a problem. When you have a machine that can make itself why not make what you need. When I needed a between centres bar I cut an old shock absorber up and used that. It bored me a 38mm steam cylinder in bronze with no taper. I know there's some things you have to buy but the simple things it's cheaper to make.
If you're having problems drilling brass, check out "Clickspring's " channel. He did an episode talking about how to change a positive rake drill bit to negative rake. He got a cheap set of drill bits that he converted to negative rake and only uses them for brass. Other that that, looks like you got a really good bar.
It's not only brass you need to do that for. Perspex and Acrylic will also snatch. Sheet brass ( half hard for bending ) will not snatch and a standard drill will cut better than a 'Backed Off' one.
Thanks Craig. I do recall seeing Clickspring's video you are referring to. It's a great idea, and another job to add to my ever growing list. All the best. Andrew
Please follow up on this video. You have me intrigued at how this works. I'll be waiting. Thanks.
Yes, agreed, I have no idea what you are going to do with it. I enjoyed your careful and measured approach to each task in the project.
Thanks Jeff!
Cheers
Andrew
The amount of skills you have acquired since you first started is absolutely astounding.
Cheers!
Thanks for the video. Enjoyed watching.
Great project you have done there Andrew. I look forward to your videos. Keep them coming.
Nice result Andrew. I am sure that you are giving a lot of thought to how you will hold the cylinder accurately for boring. That seems to be the crucial element in this job. Clearly the part will need to be held rigid not only in line but also at exactly the right height. I look forward to seeing your solution.
Nicely done! Looking forward to seeing it work
Thanks mate. It worked a treat, second time round!
Cheers
Andrew
If using a 4 jaw Chuck with a highly offset object the vibration can cause problems with the turning or drilling diameter. As well as screeching and a lot of vibration. It’s easy with a face plate to add weights to even things up but a problem on a 4 jaw. So I make up a small block to fit between the short end of the work and it’s jaw. Ideally to match the same size as the long end. I use a scissor knurling tool to add some grip to the sides that contact the jaw and the work. I also mill a small half round into one side so that the jaw point sits in it making a better clamping action. I have about 5 of these made to different sizes and generally one of them fits close enough for any new job. I am a firm believer of spending a little extra time creating a jig, thingie, doodat or widget to make life easier, so often they get used repeatedly. Several of the Stuart engines use common or similar parts so for those I spend a little more time on my widgets. Steve
Thanks Steve - another great tip I need to remember.
Cheers
Andrew
Nice tool for sure, good work.
wow, really involved to make a nice line bore tool. looks great!
I was just going to jam a small bit in a hole in a rod and measure, tap measure tap tap until I had it right haha. I have a big cylinder to do and it's really imbalanced so I wanted to try line boring it
Thanks Paul - and it worked great after my second attempt at machining the Farm Boy cylinder sleeve.
Cheers
Andrew
If worried about threading with a split die, you can use the splitting screw to open up the die for a first go, check out the threaded piece with a nut and then close up the split dies appropriately and go over again.
Thanks for the tip Steve. I will try to remember that one!
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal are you still looking for flywheels? I have a box full and seem to remember a pit for hit n miss engines, can sort out photos if interested steve
Hi Steve - many thanks for the offer. I managed to get hold of a pair off ebay (pedelee56). They look to be very close to the drawing dimensions. The only issue is that the drawings show the hubs extending beyond the outer rims - so I think I will need to modify them slightly.
Thanks again for the offer.
All the best.
Andrew
Andrew. Well done, turned out great. When you come to bore the cylinder liner, any thoughts on how you will hold it to your cross slide. ? Perhaps a vee block. Even a better idea is if you have a piece of hardwood, clamp it down, bore it out using the new bar to sleeve OD. You will then know that the sleeve when fitted will be on center. As you will only be removing a few thou, a couple of decent woodscrews through the block to pinch the sleeve to prevent it rotating or moving.
Thanks Dave. I had been thinking of using a pair of v-blocks for the base and have already made a clamp for the cross slide. However your idea of using hardwood has really got me thinking. It's a great suggestion. I need to give it some serious cosideration.
All the best.
Andrew
Hi Andrew, that is a useful adjustment tool. Never used one in my day at all. It was always a dial indicator to move the c/tool in or out. This tool would work a treat.
Another fantastic video. Discover the channel a few days ago and I've seen almost all the videos and subscribed to the channel. I also have a lathe and a milling machine but I still need to buy some tools to get started. At the moment my channel is about building wooden boats made from plans. Many congratulations on your channel. In the future it will give me a lot of help.
Thanks mate. I hope you start making stuff out of metal soon.
Cheers
Andrew
The way you have shown to bar, one will have to remove the carrier to install and remove the micrometer. Could one install the micrometer on the other side of the cutter to simplify
the removal of the micrometer before the turning operation?
Hi Nevin. Good point! I will definitely try that approach next time. Added to my list of changes.
Cheers!
Andrew
Great work. Can you tell me who you bought your reamers from ?
Hi. Most of my reamers were purchased from arc euro trade. They appear good quality and I've not had any problems. I only wish I got commission 😭
Cheers
Andrew
Well done! So faar I have no clue about how this beaytiful piece of work will be used,
One remark! Be careful videoing manuals. I think about the copyright rules.
So much work setting the rotary table up…. But the result is greate. I've done it myself, making a radious on some crapy looking clamps but the radious was really needed for them…
Thanks Stefan. I do try to avoid showing any detail on drawings unless the copyright owner gives me permission, but I fully understand where you are coming from. Some owners allow me to use my discretion. Yeah setting up the rotary table can be a chore but it really pays off when you see the end result.
Take care.
Andrew
Don't run unbalanced. It's bad for the machine and it's not safe. Add one or more counterweights.
5.02 put some oil on that mill handle
Yeah, I thought that too!
Cheers
Andrew
Gah literally the only reason i watched this was to see it being used when finished lol. Nice work but run your machine slower when drilling or turning something unbalanced
Hi Kody
From memory I think I used this tool when machining the cylinder for the Jerry Howell Farm Boy.
Cheers
Abdrew
I was just wondering yesterday how you were making out with the boring bar. Great job as usual, looking forward to seeing it in use.
HI Andrew. I have just put a three part video up on RUclips, on making a line boring jig. Take a look and I'd appreciate your feedback.
Chopper 316 in the UK
Sorry Andrew. While the subject is interesting, by 07:00 I had to retreat. I wasn't going to sit through another 20 minutes of watching you prep the end of the rod. The breaker came at 07:10 when you destroyed that drill bit.....
Nope, not the sort of thing for me.
No worries Peter.
All the best.
Andrew
That's not a between centre boring bar with one end in the chuck. Expensive way of doing things, a bar and a lathe dog would do the same and use a mike to set the cutter.
Hi mate. I didn't show the boring bar in use, but I had to use a chuck to make it. I know it's not the cheapest boring bar solution but I liked the idea of making a simple micrometer, and I thought others might find it of interest too. It got me to try new things out too. I hope to use the boring bar in my next video.
All the best.
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal You obviously like taking the expensive route to get round a problem. When you have a machine that can make itself why not make what you need. When I needed a between centres bar I cut an old shock absorber up and used that. It bored me a 38mm steam cylinder in bronze with no taper. I know there's some things you have to buy but the simple things it's cheaper to make.
Slow that drill down.
If you're having problems drilling brass, check out "Clickspring's " channel. He did an episode talking about how to change a positive rake drill bit to negative rake. He got a cheap set of drill bits that he converted to negative rake and only uses them for brass. Other that that, looks like you got a really good bar.
It's not only brass you need to do that for. Perspex and Acrylic will also snatch. Sheet brass ( half hard for bending ) will not snatch and a standard drill will cut better than a 'Backed Off' one.
Thanks Craig. I do recall seeing Clickspring's video you are referring to. It's a great idea, and another job to add to my ever growing list.
All the best.
Andrew
Too much off camera features.