Fantastic instructional! Straight to the point w very clean video and concise information! Thank you! 04 accord w 379,000 miles and still peppy as ever! Th
Glad I could help! And 379, that is DAMN impressive! I ended up selling this one when it hit 244, but I bought a crv (same engine) and just cracked 225!
Have you ever had valves adjusted? I have a 2012 crv with 138,000 and am investigating that, whether it's necessary or not. Would probably aim for 200,000 IF it needs it.
I would suggest you mention torque specs for future tutorials. A beginner might overtighten the bolts and they will have a very bad day aftewards.Get a decent torque wrench guys! Especially for enginework!
Definitely a good idea! I’ve strayed away from direct tutorials and now mostly focus on building my own cars with little tips or tricks mentioned throughout the video, but if I do make any more tutorials I will definitely mention torque specs!
Hi Nick, after 4 years, how has this repair held up for you? I have a 2004 accord with a leaky valve cover gasket and wanted to know if your repair worked well or if there is any changes or tips that you could give me. Great video btw.
Hey! I can’t believe I didn’t see this comment. It held up great for the 20k miles or so I put on it before I sold it. Then the next owner blew the car up after not putting oil in it. But, if you follow the video well, use some bond in the corners, it should last years!
Two questions... did you remove the plugs and I missed it or are the screwed into the cover so they cane out with the cover. Second question, can you provide the torque specs for the reassembly? Other that thise two lingering questions, very well done
Torque specs I’m unsure, I wouldn’t go to hard, maybe 10-15 foot pounds? And spark plugs are threaded into the head, no need to remove them to change the valve cover!
Coming from a complete novice here with a question. I need to do this job and I've watched a few videos up here. I really appreciate your camera angle and tips. 👍 When you remove the four tubes (my ignorance showing here) and flipped them over their electrical connections to get them out of the way, I noticed you took great care to cover the inside from where they were removed with rags. If you're placing the tubes back into their respective spaces after the gasket replacement, why is there no concern about any engine grime they may have picked up when they were flipped over? Does it even matter?
So when you say 4 tubes, I would assume you’re talking about the coil packs that connect to your spark plug (the 4 in a row on the top of the valve cover). If that’s the case, then placing rags over those holes is simply an extra precaution to prevent debris from getting into the area where the spark plug is. I do it so I can’t drop bolts or knock any dirt into it. I just cover it up while I finish unbolting the valve cover and removing any hoses. Once you go to take the cover off, while you clean the gasket surface I recommend putting rags over the entire valve train, you don’t want dirt or anything getting in there.
You can also use an air gun if you have access to a compressor to insure that there’s no debris in there. It’s not the end of the world if there is, but it’s not ideal
I was, indeed, talking about the coil packs. Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. One more thing, when cleaning the track the valve cover gasket seats into, do you use a particular cleaning agent?
@@ddobbins777 For a degreaser I like to use superclean, sold at walmart. Works very well. Usually superclean and the green can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner work great, maybe use some rags or q-tips to clean it out thoroughly. Try not to get any degreaser in the engine.
@@OlsonAuto I thank you much, Sir. Your help has been greatly appreciated. Also, I've been looking to replace my spark plugs while I'm in the thick of it and realized the coil packs are not moving parts, as I initially assumed they were. 🙄🤦🏻♀️Hence, my grime question earlier about the coil packs. Makes a lot more sense to me now. Good thing ignorance is curable.
I'm not going to criticize your work cause I'm not a mechanic but I would be more careful with those spark plug coils. Unplug them before you take them out. Keep on keeping on Bro
@@OlsonAuto It works best for me when removing numerous nuts and bolts of the same size, like when removing an oil pan, or when removing long bolts that require a lot of ratcheting. For quick removals of a few small nuts or bolts, the hand ratchet is still my go-to.
I didn’t, and I don’t think you have to, but it won’t hurt to disconnect it, takes a few seconds and at the rare chance it does something wrong you’re better off
Thank you! Good job with the step by step instructions! I did this job last weekend but I missed the last 2 screws behind the cover and I pryed the cover up. It wouldn't give so I ended up breaking it a bit. Where can I get a gasket cover without having to go to the dealership. Over $200 there. Thank you!
You mean a new valve cover? I’d check eBay, my friend does custom powder coated valve covers, ready to go just need the $35 gasket kit from autozone, he charges $125 for the accord valve cover. My friends IG is @cuvrd_ just tell him I sent you and you’ll get a few bucks off. Or you can try Facebook marketplace for a used one maybe, but I loved my powder coated one
I really think this is the issue with my car but my mechanic is telling me its so much more. Would you reccomend starting with this and seeing if it still leaks?
Tough to say, I would recommend talking with another mechanic first, because if the first one is telling the truth, then you would just be wasting your time.
Other than the valve cover gasket, check the vtec solenoid, the vtec spool and the front vtec filter gasket. Those are known to leak at a certain year or mileage
Honestly a good judgement is best here. I’m sure there is a torque spec, but to put it into perspective, the cam caps on my other car were only 7 ft/lbs. use a 3/8 ratchet and go until it’s firmly tight, but don’t go crazy. For sequence, hand tighten all of them, then just sort of dance around and do one on one side, then the opposite, and double check at the end. Torque specs are only really important for internal engine components as long as you go right enough with everything else. I’ve done more valve cover gaskets than I can count and have never torqued one or had one leak after
It seems everything I have seen and read says 8.7 ft lbs. Plus my Hanes book says the same thing. I am researching this to help my son replace his 07 Accord valve cover gasket and 8.7 seems to be the number mentioned for the 03-07 Accord with the 2.4 engine. It use to be our car til we gave it to our son so I am somewhat familiar with it. Helps me a lot and now I can help my son replace his gasket without him having to spend $300+ to have a mechanic do it. Great video. Only wish my son took as much interest in repairing cars. Its a WONDERFUL skill to have and saves a ton of money over the years as you get older.
I did all the instructions in the video an I crunk it up an oil started coming out an smoking from the oil burning on the engine. Did I not put enough silicone in the corner’s ?
I have a small gap between the cover and the mating surface, i did everything correctly and even took it off amd out back on 3 times now, the gasket is seated properly i even held it upright and the gasket doesn't come out at all, i even torqued it down to the correct torque setting, is it supposed to have a small gap?
@@willglenn8638 thank you! And not a problem at all. As long as you’re confident the gasket is sat all the way in the groove, no wires are stuck under it and it’s torqued appropriately there’s nothing to worry about
OlsonAuto quick question. When the cover comes off. Everything exposed.. I see puddling. Is this something I can leave be? I had never done this work prior to now. If not obvious!
Getting those front end panels aligned properly is going to be difficult. Other than that, if you’re happy with how everything looks, I’d start by looking into moving the striker/latch
@@Dgotlengthonit just look up on google the exact points where you need to apply just a pearl of Honda bond. It's nothing crazy nor complicated. I even broke a bolt and made my life miserable for a day but ended up all good. You tighten the bolts and let it cure for a day an then let the car run. Check for any leaks after that go for a ride. Final cure process is engine up to temp for a while. I used permatex and it didn't work. Honda bond was good.
Did you make sure to clean the surface where the gasket sits in both the valve cover and the engine? And no, I didn’t torque it, I just go until it’s tight
@@OlsonAuto I tried going until it's tight but the nuts kept spinning. Started leaking up front. Tightened some more and broke one off. Now I have to go to the junk yard and get a new stud and nut. I'll redo the job and throughully clean the surface on the head this time with some chemicals. If it still leaks I'll just throw JB weld all over it and say hell with it
Thanks for taking time putting this together. You did a good job, but I think you missed some important/helpful things along the way. When you pull out the coil wires the way you did (without first disconnecting the coil wires), you risk breaking those connections. I'm assuming you used brake fluid cleaner to clean the cover before painting it. You should use dielectric grease on the inside/outside of the spark plug tubes, as well as on the inner seals so they slide in easily. That would eliminate the need to pound them in as you did. You can find some other useful tips on this video: ruclips.net/video/WJD6SLOiL50/видео.html&lc=Ugx5YKwfugSK4oPRysB4AaABAg.9n0EbW6tv779n15Yc0p_ee The OEM valve cover gasket set part# is 12030-RAA-A01
Metric socket set (I believe it’s 10 & 12mm, but if you have everything from 8mm-16mm you will be set), ratchet, 3 inch and 6 inch extension, and something to scrape old hondabond/adhesive off. Maybe some rags and brakleen
Thanks bro, your tutorial was straight fire, and not a bunch of excessive talk!!!!! Appreciate you taking time out of your day to help.
Thank you! Really glad I was able to help!
Fantastic instructional! Straight to the point w very clean video and concise information! Thank you! 04 accord w 379,000 miles and still peppy as ever! Th
Glad I could help! And 379, that is DAMN impressive! I ended up selling this one when it hit 244, but I bought a crv (same engine) and just cracked 225!
@OlsonAuto whyd you'd sell? Wanted a bigger car, or issues with the car?
@@JcksnACC Ended up buying an old wrangler YJ, then I sold the YJ and cycled through 4 different mustangs lol
Exceptional step by step video with thorough information and demonstration. Thank you!
Awesome video bro, just fixed my wife’s car, many thanks!
Not a problem, glad I could help!
i got a 05 accord with 355,000 miles on it still runs great engine sounds great
That’s awesome! These K series engines are basically indestructible as long as you keep oil in em
Have you ever had valves adjusted? I have a 2012 crv with 138,000 and am investigating that, whether it's necessary or not. Would probably aim for 200,000 IF it needs it.
Mine just hit 666,666 miles on the way to work today. 2007 with the 2.4. Original engine and trans. Great cars!
Excellent short and sweet video.
Thank you Nick. It worked out pretty easy just like you instructed in the video.
Awesome! Really glad to hear I helped!
Well made video that helped a lot. I replaced the gasket and PVC valve on my daughter's '07. Runs like a top.
Glad I could help!
Thanks for this video! I just followed your directions and it went smoothly! Also did my sparkplugs while I was at it👍
Awesome! I’m super glad to hear I could help
Ugh. I thought about changing my sparks plugs but passed.
I have the same honda accord with over 400k and runs very well. This car was built to last.
Absolutely! These things are tanks. I now drive an 05 crv for my daily, same engine, and just yesterday hit 230k miles!
Amazing Walkthrough. 🎉
Awesome job
Well done video with clear instruction. Excellent job for novices wanting to DIY maintenanace. Thanks much.
Glad I could help!
You saved me $500, thank you.
Glad I could help!
I would suggest you mention torque specs for future tutorials. A beginner might overtighten the bolts and they will have a very bad day aftewards.Get a decent torque wrench guys! Especially for enginework!
Definitely a good idea! I’ve strayed away from direct tutorials and now mostly focus on building my own cars with little tips or tricks mentioned throughout the video, but if I do make any more tutorials I will definitely mention torque specs!
Well done brother!!
This is so good. Can i ask though, the kit i got has 8 rings, one with a lip. I saw that you only used the one with the protrusion?
Pretty sure the other 4 orings go on the coil pack boots underneath
Excellent video! Obligatory Liked and Sub’d! 👍▶️🔧
Great video, very helpful…thank you!
Not a problem, glad I could help!
Hi Nick, after 4 years, how has this repair held up for you? I have a 2004 accord with a leaky valve cover gasket and wanted to know if your repair worked well or if there is any changes or tips that you could give me. Great video btw.
Hey! I can’t believe I didn’t see this comment. It held up great for the 20k miles or so I put on it before I sold it. Then the next owner blew the car up after not putting oil in it. But, if you follow the video well, use some bond in the corners, it should last years!
Good video thanks
Glad I could help!
Two questions... did you remove the plugs and I missed it or are the screwed into the cover so they cane out with the cover. Second question, can you provide the torque specs for the reassembly? Other that thise two lingering questions, very well done
Torque specs I’m unsure, I wouldn’t go to hard, maybe 10-15 foot pounds? And spark plugs are threaded into the head, no need to remove them to change the valve cover!
Around 9ft torque
Coming from a complete novice here with a question. I need to do this job and I've watched a few videos up here. I really appreciate your camera angle and tips. 👍
When you remove the four tubes (my ignorance showing here) and flipped them over their electrical connections to get them out of the way, I noticed you took great care to cover the inside from where they were removed with rags. If you're placing the tubes back into their respective spaces after the gasket replacement, why is there no concern about any engine grime they may have picked up when they were flipped over? Does it even matter?
So when you say 4 tubes, I would assume you’re talking about the coil packs that connect to your spark plug (the 4 in a row on the top of the valve cover).
If that’s the case, then placing rags over those holes is simply an extra precaution to prevent debris from getting into the area where the spark plug is. I do it so I can’t drop bolts or knock any dirt into it. I just cover it up while I finish unbolting the valve cover and removing any hoses. Once you go to take the cover off, while you clean the gasket surface I recommend putting rags over the entire valve train, you don’t want dirt or anything getting in there.
You can also use an air gun if you have access to a compressor to insure that there’s no debris in there. It’s not the end of the world if there is, but it’s not ideal
I was, indeed, talking about the coil packs. Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. One more thing, when cleaning the track the valve cover gasket seats into, do you use a particular cleaning agent?
@@ddobbins777 For a degreaser I like to use superclean, sold at walmart. Works very well. Usually superclean and the green can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner work great, maybe use some rags or q-tips to clean it out thoroughly. Try not to get any degreaser in the engine.
@@OlsonAuto I thank you much, Sir. Your help has been greatly appreciated. Also, I've been looking to replace my spark plugs while I'm in the thick of it and realized the coil packs are not moving parts, as I initially assumed they were. 🙄🤦🏻♀️Hence, my grime question earlier about the coil packs. Makes a lot more sense to me now. Good thing ignorance is curable.
I'm not going to criticize your work cause I'm not a mechanic but I would be more careful with those spark plug coils. Unplug them before you take them out. Keep on keeping on Bro
Definitely right, younger me was stupid and impatient lol
Nice video. As you most likely know, a battery-powered ratchet will save a considerable amount of time.
Thank you, and of course! I very recently got one too
@@OlsonAuto Since I purchased one (and an impact wrench for removing things like lug nuts), my work time has been cut in half.
@@TomBleecker ive been trying to use mine more but not going to lie, using the manual one is an old habit to break lol
@@OlsonAuto It works best for me when removing numerous nuts and bolts of the same size, like when removing an oil pan, or when removing long bolts that require a lot of ratcheting. For quick removals of a few small nuts or bolts, the hand ratchet is still my go-to.
Did you disconnect the battery? Can you short circuit something if you don't disconnect the battery and you do this type of job?
I didn’t, and I don’t think you have to, but it won’t hurt to disconnect it, takes a few seconds and at the rare chance it does something wrong you’re better off
Thank you! Good job with the step by step instructions! I did this job last weekend but I missed the last 2 screws behind the cover and I pryed the cover up. It wouldn't give so I ended up breaking it a bit. Where can I get a gasket cover without having to go to the dealership. Over $200 there. Thank you!
You mean a new valve cover? I’d check eBay, my friend does custom powder coated valve covers, ready to go just need the $35 gasket kit from autozone, he charges $125 for the accord valve cover. My friends IG is @cuvrd_ just tell him I sent you and you’ll get a few bucks off. Or you can try Facebook marketplace for a used one maybe, but I loved my powder coated one
Thank you! I might try some junkyard today.
I really think this is the issue with my car but my mechanic is telling me its so much more. Would you reccomend starting with this and seeing if it still leaks?
Tough to say, I would recommend talking with another mechanic first, because if the first one is telling the truth, then you would just be wasting your time.
@@OlsonAuto I agree. Thank you!
Other than the valve cover gasket, check the vtec solenoid, the vtec spool and the front vtec filter gasket. Those are known to leak at a certain year or mileage
@@sprinterpilot I will thanks.
Is silicone a must?
Most definitely, high temp, oil safe silicone. A lot of people use “Honda bond” but any regular high temp RTV should work just fine.
Should’ve took off the dip stick first. I could tell you also just learning great video 👍
Fuckin A man! Absolutely awesome video that showed me what I need to do with my '04Honda Accord
Glad I could help!
How much oil were you losing ?
Not a huge amount, valve covers rarely cause anything crazy, but I also had a few other oil leaks I had fixed all at once
Might you know what the torque specs is for the bolts? And bolt sequence?
Honestly a good judgement is best here. I’m sure there is a torque spec, but to put it into perspective, the cam caps on my other car were only 7 ft/lbs. use a 3/8 ratchet and go until it’s firmly tight, but don’t go crazy. For sequence, hand tighten all of them, then just sort of dance around and do one on one side, then the opposite, and double check at the end. Torque specs are only really important for internal engine components as long as you go right enough with everything else. I’ve done more valve cover gaskets than I can count and have never torqued one or had one leak after
@@OlsonAuto Thank you. Much appreciated 👍
No problem
It seems everything I have seen and read says 8.7 ft lbs. Plus my Hanes book says the same thing. I am researching this to help my son replace his 07 Accord valve cover gasket and 8.7 seems to be the number mentioned for the 03-07 Accord with the 2.4 engine. It use to be our car til we gave it to our son so I am somewhat familiar with it. Helps me a lot and now I can help my son replace his gasket without him having to spend $300+ to have a mechanic do it. Great video. Only wish my son took as much interest in repairing cars. Its a WONDERFUL skill to have and saves a ton of money over the years as you get older.
@@charlesk1140 definitely saves some money, one of my favorite parts about it for sure
Do you have to take the oil out first oh no?
I didn’t, if it isn’t leaking too bad I suppose it’s not a bad idea to wait until you’re due an oil change and then do it all at once.
I want to change rocker cover gasket, solenoid gasket and pcv valve ...where can I buy it online??...I live in Australia thanks
Honestly not sure. You’d have to look around, maybe a local auto parts store has them
I did all the instructions in the video an I crunk it up an oil started coming out an smoking from the oil burning on the engine. Did I not put enough silicone in the corner’s ?
It depends how much oil was coming out. Not that much silicone is required so I cannot imagine that by not putting enough, you’d see any large leak
I have a small gap between the cover and the mating surface, i did everything correctly and even took it off amd out back on 3 times now, the gasket is seated properly i even held it upright and the gasket doesn't come out at all, i even torqued it down to the correct torque setting, is it supposed to have a small gap?
You’ll be able to see a small gap typically. I don’t have a picture handy, but you typically will see a gap maybe 1/8”
@@OlsonAuto thank you, just wanted to make sure cause I'm no expert and I just want to make sure I do it right, excellent video by the way 😀
@@willglenn8638 thank you! And not a problem at all. As long as you’re confident the gasket is sat all the way in the groove, no wires are stuck under it and it’s torqued appropriately there’s nothing to worry about
2. C.V. JOINT(left-outer) axel shaft(one side) removal/install tutorial Please! :D
ruclips.net/video/y3KlPGZSX_o/видео.html here’s my video on it!
@@OlsonAuto Thank you! The Honda is running better than when I bought it!
Kantine awesome, I’m glad to hear it!
OlsonAuto quick question. When the cover comes off. Everything exposed.. I see puddling. Is this something I can leave be? I had never done this work prior to now. If not obvious!
Kantine so you see oil in the head? Underneath the camshafts (the two long rods going across the engine)?
My girlfriend wrecked my 04 accord. I replaced the whole front end. But now the hood won't latch back down. Any advice would be most helpful
Getting those front end panels aligned properly is going to be difficult. Other than that, if you’re happy with how everything looks, I’d start by looking into moving the striker/latch
Thanks for the video but I would never paint it black, if oil leaks, you are not going to be able to see it
You didn't mention anything about the torque foot pounds on those valve cover bolts what is the foot pounds
Remember to put hondabond on the corners of the timing chain. I'm surprised you didn't put it there since there was the major leak
I use black silicon, never caused me an issue.
@@OlsonAuto black silicone, rtv or whatever you want I'm just saying that I didn't see you put it on the mating surface on the timig chain side
I believe I did, maybe just didn’t show it in the video.
I'd really like if there were more details explaining how to do this step. I'm an amateur but willing to try.
@@Dgotlengthonit just look up on google the exact points where you need to apply just a pearl of Honda bond. It's nothing crazy nor complicated. I even broke a bolt and made my life miserable for a day but ended up all good.
You tighten the bolts and let it cure for a day an then let the car run. Check for any leaks after that go for a ride. Final cure process is engine up to temp for a while.
I used permatex and it didn't work. Honda bond was good.
Did you torque cover down. Mine is still leaking
Did you make sure to clean the surface where the gasket sits in both the valve cover and the engine?
And no, I didn’t torque it, I just go until it’s tight
@@OlsonAuto I tried going until it's tight but the nuts kept spinning. Started leaking up front. Tightened some more and broke one off.
Now I have to go to the junk yard and get a new stud and nut.
I'll redo the job and throughully clean the surface on the head this time with some chemicals. If it still leaks I'll just throw JB weld all over it and say hell with it
What all tools do I need ?
Metric socket set, 3/8” ratchet, razor blade, and a 3/8” 6” extension should do the trick. If I recall that should be all of it
Thanks for taking time putting this together. You did a good job, but I think you missed some important/helpful things along the way. When you pull out the coil wires the way you did (without first disconnecting the coil wires), you risk breaking those connections. I'm assuming you used brake fluid cleaner to clean the cover before painting it. You should use dielectric grease on the inside/outside of the spark plug tubes, as well as on the inner seals so they slide in easily. That would eliminate the need to pound them in as you did. You can find some other useful tips on this video:
ruclips.net/video/WJD6SLOiL50/видео.html&lc=Ugx5YKwfugSK4oPRysB4AaABAg.9n0EbW6tv779n15Yc0p_ee
The OEM valve cover gasket set part# is 12030-RAA-A01
Damn you forgot to remove the DIPSTICK first! LOL
Haha yeah, took me a minute to realize it too!
👍🏾👍🏻👍🏼👍🏻👍🏼👍🏾
Yo cant pry the the valve cover i used almost every tool
Rubber mallet and tapping the sides works well also, but don’t go crazy or you will crack it.
What tools do I need?
Metric socket set (I believe it’s 10 & 12mm, but if you have everything from 8mm-16mm you will be set), ratchet, 3 inch and 6 inch extension, and something to scrape old hondabond/adhesive off. Maybe some rags and brakleen