Is Sleepwalker v15 or v16?
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- Опубликовано: 8 янв 2024
- After sending Sleepwalker, Noah gives a rundown on the climb's different betas relative to height and how this dynamic can cause confusion over the grade with help from Conor Wellman. He then tries the sit start - Return of the Sleepwalker V17 - potentially the hardest climb in the country or world. #climbing #bouldering
wheel rock is frustrating because half the time i have to watch weak midget noah wheeler instead of strong sexy benn wheeler
strong sexy benn wheeler 😍🤤
community needed this, nice work Noah!
Ya all of us mortals were dying to know whether it would take us 3 lifetimes of training to send this or 4.
@@loftshot9169 The general commentary at the start of the vide is also valid for V1s
We desperately need more of these breakdowns for hard boulders! Great video!
Watching Ryuichi Murai climb this at only 5'4" tall and maybe 5'7" span was amazing!
Not really, hes smaller but therefore much lighter which gives him a power advantage.
@@yannickfrogel3537 So it cannot be amazing then? 🙄
@@yannickfrogel3537 incredibly braindead take
@@yannickfrogel3537are you accoustic ?
@@yannickfrogel3537 dude u left ur brain at home when u wrote that comment
Soft V2 in my gym though
I think Sleepwalker makes the perfect case for the use of the split grade. So, V15/16. This is to account for the fact that there are two fundamentally different ways up. Of course, a few other key qualifications are needed, but this is the main one. EDIT: With Will Bosi making such quick work of Sleepwalker using the original beta, maybe straight V15 is a more proper grade. At the same time, it is worth acknowledging that the problem may be particularly height/reach dependent. So, perhaps using the split grade of V15/16 is appropriate on this account. I'm basing this on the guidelines a Val Bavona guidebook author says he uses for split grades. He basically says in his RUclips video on grading that he uses a split grade when community consensus fails to converge on one particular grade over the other.
Great work on the send and communication, thanks man
love the rundown sick stuff dude
Thanks for the breakdown! I really enjoyed watching this 👍🏻👍🏻
Wow looking good on the sit! Keep it up and good luck! 💪💪💪
So there was this climb at my gym graded V7. I’m totally a solid V4 and can project climb V5 and accomplish most after half a dozen attempts or so. Never done a V6 or a V7 ever at this point. Was watching people do this V7 front facing the wall and I told someone “this would be way easier if on the 4th, 5th, and 6th move, you turned around facing away from the wall and grabbed the other side” and he said, “that sounds crazy… why don’t you try it?” So I did and flashed the thing. I thought (dang, I’ve done some V4s harder than that!) does that mean I can ‘downgrade’ the climb and call it a V3 because my personal beta is easier even though I used all the same holds? People get so wrapped around grades. I don’t get it. I can’t do V3s with huge slopers to save my life, but give me a V5 slab with tiny edges and crimps and I’m your man. Difficulty is soooo so subjective. Either way, would be cool to have the strength and skill to do stuff in the V10+ range someday. Not there yet, but I’ll keep brainstorming ways to make climb’s easier for me at least.
Thank you for the clarification, I can definitely see how skipping the “intermediaries” (which are necessary holds for all regular sized humans) would free up some energy and make this feel easier.
Very good explain the difrents betas and the difrent dificulty 🔥
Remember that grades are subjective for different bodies. Remember that downgrading something does take out NOTHING from the person ascending it. He still did ascend the same rock.
In this case it’s upgrading not downgrading I believe or did he not fa?
Awesome vid ❤❤
Is anyone trying to link the start of “Squoze” into the sleepwalker line?
“Revenge of the Sleepwalker”?
There’s another climb in red rocks that says V2 if you’re tall and V6 if you’re short. I sent it pretty easily and my friend couldn’t. It’s V16 unless you’re 6’5”
Homie's fingers at 5:22 is probably the wildest thing I've seen climbing... Is that type of pinky common? Nice moves though man. So strong.
Damn this looks smooth
This is gonna go viral
Spicy 🔥
Does anyone have context for how ridiculous Nalle's beta (matching into the sloper then stabbing into the slot) is?
soft 17 lets go
No way you sneak drop rotsw send 😭👀
guys on a rampage through America 🔥
Wow the name of your channel is genius
Nalle beta is wild too. The guy matches the sloper with a right hand drag before gaining the slot. Super alien and I’ve yet to see anyone do the move that way
Super fucked for sure. Ryuichi beta is rightfully the standard for shorter beta now.
Great video! What about Nalle's beta? Do you guys have any Idea on how difficult it is?
Good question. Guessing it’s harder than every other beta, given that every climber on the shorter side decides on using Ryuichi’s beta over nalles.
Nice shoe choice! 😉
Best climbing shoe on all terrain! Need this thing to become a main release.
🔥 🔥 🔥
Why is it so hard for the climbing community to accept that some climbs just don't conform to one grade? Also, Zander essentially did an eliminate version of SW, so why not just say "this beta is v15, this other beta is v16" and close the discussion. We all know grades are subjective, so trying to hone in on a single grade is counter intuitive and is frankly doing a massive disservice to the climbing community.
The grade obsession and particularly disagreements over them in climbing puzzle me. I get that it's an important metric, but it's only one metric and a subjective one as you say. I think a lot of (especially beginner and intermediate) climbers get to focused on moving up the grades, rather than focusing on climbing well, which in my eyes isn't optimal for long term success.
I think most every reasonable climber is on board with you. everyone knows that some climbs are easier for tall people, and some climbs are easier for short people. i think it can still be a productive conversation to have in the way that these guys did, because they were exploring the "why" - like when they analyzed the body positioning to set up for the big move. that's useful. you can learn about body positioning and styles and how it can make moves do-able or not do-able.
I agree. I think Noah did a good job describing the climb. @@mcfjk3
This is kind of a nit pick, but grades aren't subjective, they're objective measurements with high variance.
If grades were subjective, they would be based on personal taste, and someone saying that Sleepwalker is a v0 would be a valid opinion. How hard a climb is is objective, it's just really hard to measure accurately and can be different for each individual (I think this is what people mean when they say subjective though).
@@La0bouchere wow! That is a really interesting take on it that I haven’t heard before. Certainly a different way of looking at it. Gives me something to think about. Thanks dude!
Anything above V12 is crazy and I don't even get how people differentiate between a 14,15 or 16... Would love an explanation btw.
generally its based on time taken compared to other problems, taking into account whether something is in a certain climbers style or not. then from there, the grade becomes more and more 'accurate' as a greater consensus of climbers is formed. for example if a basic crimp problem with 2 ascents has a v13 consensus, and a climber is deciding what grade to give their own new crimp problem, they might suggest v14 if it took them double the time the consensus v13 took. it definitely isnt a science, and I hate putting grades on stuff but basically by those criteria the more people give their opinion the more accurate the grading becomes.
iirc Drew Ruana said that he couldn't really tell between 14, 15, or 16. I think a lot of it just ends up being how long it took.
V11 out east
i grade the breathing behind the camera a solid v15
Major slay
Wait nvm. Blue balls
go get that sit start 🍽️
So how do you measure yourself against other climbers?
By height.
A tape measure
noah beard 🥵
In my opinion drama around grades is completely unimportant. It just doesn’t matter like at all.
All the real ones know that the Sleepwalker sloper is a jug for diabase climbers
😮💨
Is your skin ever not completely wrecked? 😂
It totally is
Woah! Harry Potter rock climbs!? I figured hed just magically cheat the thing like some bastard. Probably dabs too 🙄
???
@@aguyonyoutube4sure bro looks like harry potter
@@Jagknorr what is the last part though
Remember when rock climbing to use the leviosa spell.
-Harry Potter
@@aguyonyoutube4sure Harry Potter is a wizard who can cast a variety of spells. Yes, hes probably float his way up to the top and say hed climb it (if you read the books hes kind of a douche). It wouldn’t surprise me if he dabbed the whole way up on trees and other things too 🤣
It still seems like, even with the tall beta, ROTSW has to be a 17 if not the hardest boulder currently standing in the world
Both Jimmy and Daniel tried BoD and never did it. I seriously doubt ROTS is the hardest boulder.
@@SCOclimbing Pretty sure Daniel tried BoD for one session and Jimmy just kinda felt out positions in approach shoes but still
@@elisills3395 who of the top tier climbers besides Daniel tried ROTS tho?
@@SCOclimbing To say they 'tried BoD' is super misleading dude. Almost criminally so. They were in Finland for a comp and on a rest day before the comp they went out with Nalle to have a look at it and didn't even have a full session on it. Daniel just toyed around on the moves.
you just goin around hating on mellow? @@SCOclimbing
V14
time to come and chip it into a V16, so the debate can finally end.
v10 tops
Off course it's overgraded. The American hyperbole never disappoints.
The European mind can’t even comprehend this boulder
This is just the generation we live in with the kids these days. They are doing the same shit in the gyms and it’s so annoying downgrading everything trying to say there stronger than everyone else. I don’t see the point in downgrading this climb at all other than trying to boost their own self esteem trying to be better than everyone else
Usually they downgrade because when comparing it to other v16’s it’s easier or when comparing it to other v15’s it’s harder. Not really a self esteem thing.
who cares
A ton of ppl😭
@@marcowright1060 gumbies*
@@canyonvideosas a V11 gumby I can attest that I do, in fact care.
As a v14 gumby i can attest that i do, in fact care
People who don’t get the subjectivity of grading