Rico Nagrom Hi 👋 I made a tutorial on how iron bias works Minelab Equinox Iron Bias Advanced Settings Tutorial ruclips.net/video/3P4BhhysfWk/видео.html maybe this can help
@@iurunner34 When they created F2 it was an improvement over the original FE for bottle caps and falsifying iron. With the latest update 3.0 it helped a lot with falsifying iron.
I am using it. Last two days. No metal steel whatever they are made of Bottle Caps. Aluminum however, a few, but it has put a halt to the crazy collection of Bottle Caps per hunt. Nice Video. Thx for sharing.
Thank you so much ☺️. I’ve continued to learn since and I have a really big appreciation for this machine. It’s incredible when you fully understand it.
great start to the video which was really appreciated but then lost its way with the switching between FE and F0 etc...so thought it was straightforward but then you made it more complicated.
Curly Maple Bandit I also created a tutorial playlist to help really learn the machine Minelab Equinox Tutorial ruclips.net/p/PLpymZHu8sv5nwrk34ID53OxszE8fjuDFC
im not sure why many people recommend factory reset setting. that means to reset the whole detector and all the programs pre set by some one. i will not recommend a F R but will a single reset , meaning only one of the profiles instead of the whole detector settings
It really depends, for this test I wanted to show everyone I was in the default settings. It’s so quick, but you’re right. For others they can reset just the one profile if they wanted to. 👍
nice! i am new to this activity, and your video made it easier to understand when Iron is likely to look like something else and the effect of using "iron bias".
Yay wonderful, welcome to a great hobby. Being new you will find a higher iron bias much easier.. have you watched my other tutorials on iron bias? Minelab Equinox Iron Bias Advanced Settings Tutorial ruclips.net/video/3P4BhhysfWk/видео.html and the one on the new F2? Minelab Equinox New F2 Iron Bias 2 0 Update Tutorial ruclips.net/video/zpCMyvN66qo/видео.html
Very helpful,thanks.I keep iron off, but what gives me the most problems are the halos on coins, caps and nails.I updated so I will use iron on,and give it a try tomorrow.
Good informative video. The problem is there is always a trade off. You can leave the detector on F2-9 and know that you will steer clear of the bottle caps on the beach. However, if there is a ring next to the bottle cap the chances are you will miss it even with a high recovery speed. Lower the iron bias to get the ring but suffer with falsing on mineralised sand and agro of digging bottle caps.
Agree, I’ve always stuck to a zero iron bias, if you reduce your sensitivity a notch or two below stable it decreases the falsifying nails.. also it allows you to recognize those bad targets. I rather made the decision to dig or not to dig lol.. ☺️👍..
I’ve been testing the update in My Battlefield Yard and it’s amazing the relics and coins I’m finding after pounding my yard for 2 years! My yard is full of square nails!
Relic Dirtyhands I go out and use different setting everyday I listen to the tones don’t worry about the meter. This program is unmasking even better in the iron! Eagle Coat at 9” came back very good 2 nails in the hole with it! I got a Tomback cuff with 7 square nails in a area I have hit with Blisstool V6 and Deus! Unmasking is awesome!
@@craigtalley That's the real trick to unmasking. Dig more. LOL. In a heavy iron zone I find it fairly easy to pick out good targets and I don't even have a multi frequency machine. My kruzer even uses a 13 inch coil in the mess just fine. You open the machine wide open, listen to what's normally going on and dig anything that sounds abnormal. Voila! Targets unmasked. Go low and slow and use your brain. You'll catch onto the pattern quick and be able to tell what's most likely a nail from not a nail with a reasonable margin of error BUT.......since you're wide open you'll never lose anything. If you`re running an 800 I would also suggest giving gold mode a try. I`ve been using deep mode on my machine.......which is similar to gold mode. That scaling audio feature is really helpful in picking out higher conductors of significant size from lower conductors or smaller size. Once you know what the general volume response for nails is......you can start picking out anything not a nail based on the volume alone. It`s really cool! Noisy but cool. :)
So because our Canadian clad is steel, if we use the new f2 higher settings to get rid of bottle caps and nails I imagine we can forget about finding clad, would like to see a video test with that in mind.
Rick Robison lol maybe I should have added those results, down the board I had a 2016 quarter and a dime.. I’ll have to review the footage again to confirm but I lost the dime around 6, it rang down to 0 / 1. The quarter stayed strong but I guess it will also depend on how much rust is coming through. If I remember though, the clad seemed less jumpy but hit lower than I’m used to.. that’s the part I need to confirm again. 😁
Relic Dirtyhands Thanks for the test, I need to update my 600, still running original software and then try myself, but don’t have access to a computer at the moment.
"Pffft, Canada, it's not even a real country" - Homer Simpson You know why all the trees in Minnesota lean north, right? Because Canada sucks. :-) No offense, just having a little fun. I have a beer or two inside me.
Fantastic video about Fe2 on the updated Equinox 800!! I ran the 800 so long in Fe , I just never figured out the Fe2. Then I also got the 900 which only has one Iron Bias...but it is the Fe2 from the 800! I run the 900 in dp tones with Fe= 9. Started that on the gulf beaches and get almost no bottlecaps. Modelos have foil covering 😂. Even the bottlecaps that try to false give a scratchy squelch sound. I'm going to compare the 800 Fe2=9 and 900 Fe=9 and see if they read the same. Thanks!!🍀😀👍
That’s awesome, definitely test them out. Eric is using the 900 now, he’s really enjoying Fe 4 at the beaches and his bottle cap finds have really reduced! I’m using the Manticore and loving it. Love Minelabs ha ha! ☺️👍
Tell him using the 900 in Beach 2, Fe=9, dp tones he'll only dig 1% of the caps. Depth will be much greater than other tones. I don't miss good targets. Still with those settings digging rings 19-24 inches in the wet sand.
Have you noticed what percussions come from using either Fe or f2 at 6-9? Like on good targets? Loss of depth? Will it cancel out a good signal that is close to the nail? I am amazed at the abiity to cancel out those nails with FE at 6. I have no idea why I haven't put setting it higher. I have never even set it above 4 . Glad I watched this
I’ve tested these out after this video in real conditions, now I personally love FE 0, I prefer having the most natural response, as a relic hunter, I don’t mind digging iron but I do recognize falsifying nails signal. The higher you set this function, the more likely you will miss items that are mask by iron. A high recovery speed, less depth, more separation. Low recovery, more depth but less separation. 👍 I don’t recall seeing anything that said iron bias reduces depth though.
3 main types of bottle caps 1.) Steel 2.) Tin Coated 3.) Zinc Coated Variations? Aluminum foil coated and at at least 1 rare chrome looking cap. Pull tabs also vary in metallic composition. One difference is the iron content. Iron. A close look at the alloys used in the composition of modern steel and iron related products should be printed in Minelab's manual. The list is extensive and complex. Iron in nature is common and very frequently an associate of precious metals. Aluminum silicates are a component of certain gemstones.
Great informative video!👍I tried to update but won’t work on my Windows 7 computer. I think our laptop has Windows 10 though. Can’t wait to try it out at a few places I have in mind. I use low iron bias currently and I encounter nails so often but have gotten very good at identifying them. I get low 20’s, then speed up and tighten the swing over the target and as soon as I see 36,37,38’s, I move on. I will always dig it if I get that in both directions but is most often two nails in different directions. That is how I pulled out a Dragon Slayer token amongst square nail signals 12” down. If I could even reduce this a bit, it would speed things up immensely.
Looks like others have been able to, have you ran any other updates? Ive always used iron bias low but I do spend more time analyzing my signals.. we hunt heavily hunted sites so a low iron bias suits me fine.. but at some of the drowned villages, I can see how a higher iron bias would save me time. 😁
Got it installed from our Windows 10 laptop and took it to my very trashy park at the lake ‘proving grounds’ for some practice. I went to F2 - 9 and it was amazing! Mostly old rusty bottle caps there. It really clears the noise out of the mid tone range. This should make it so much easier to find gold as they seem to fall into a similar range. Oh and while I was practicing, I pulled out the largest silver ring to date. Screaming 35, no markings on it and crudely made. Very chunky!
kepvalley whohhooo! I tried it too yesterday, you could even see all the bottle caps on the surface and just below.. it’s also a nail yard.. I dug zero nails and regular caps.. I did dig a lot of aluminum ones.. man I covered 3 to 5 times the area than I usually do..
Since I am new to my Equinox in metal detecting, and have never really understood the iron bias my question to you would be the following. Is the intent of the iron bias when using a higher number to make a metal object that’s not a coin sound in the lower range? Instead of getting some high numbers and high tones and making it sound like a coin when it’s not?
I find it uglies up a signal, for example a bottle cap, the higher it’s set the uglier the bottle cap signal sounds, it sounds choppier. If you are struggling with chunky iron or bottle caps if you raise your F2 it should help. I use it before I get too discouraged, running a zero iron bias and hearing the natural response is best, as you raise the iron bias there is a small chance of missing some masked finds. It’s a give take, In extreme locations I would raise my Iron bias to 4 on the 800. It just makes it easier to recognize some ferrous trash better. I hope this helps.
Good test however it would be interesting seeing it done with your targets isolated and not having other targets within the coil sweep. My in field results so far were bad - trash sounded good and numbers similar to pennies/dimes. Managed to dig trash only including complete aluminum can at 12 inches+. Used all metal mode, 20-22 sens, auto ground bal, park 2, 5 tones. Will try again at another park but had better results previous to update by notching out offending trash numbers.
What were your results like with objects further apart? I’ve subbed as you are the first vid I’ve got to see with the new comparison. I updated mine nearly a week ago and just can’t get the chance to get out it’s driving me mad lol
The Rhins Ranger I went out to the two of most extreme trash sites this weekend, where this new iron bias was perfect to test.. just like in the video I needed to crank it up to 9 to avoid caps... now I never have anything far apart.. especially in the ground. In reality I should have had it all piled together lol
The Rhins Ranger iron bias is a trade off to dig less trash.. a lower iron bias is always recommended if you don’t want to miss any targets.. but If you’re spending a lot of time digging nails, a higher iron bias is recommended.
What mode are you using and how many tones? Since I had previous experience I started right away with mode2, this has a default of 50 tones. Like all machines it takes time to learn them. The more you dig the more you will start to recognize a full tone, large or small objects, masked targets and even coins on edge. If you use 50 tones it will help better identify targets, if you use 5 tones it may increase the audio learning curve. To reduce frustration at first you can try digging full solid repeatable tones both ways. Swing over like an x pattern, if it comes in good dig it. Once you get used to the tones and target ID’s, then start digging the iffy targets. In this video I show falsifying on the tip of nails, wires and spikes. Reducing sensitivity a bit helps stop the amplified signal. A tip is hard to isolate because it’s effect is on the edge of the coil, you only get the signal one way.. a silver masked, you will get a similar response but as you circle and swing over doing a * star like pattern you will be able to repeat it in some angles.. 75% of the time nails are only one way. 18 and up is often, silver, copper, aluminium but small targets made of these metals, depending on size will give you a lower repeatable tone, example small flat buttons can come in much lower than 18. Dig a lot and have fun, the more you dig the more you will recognize those exciting tones 😊
@@luckyday639 it really does and it just keeps getting better! It’s been almost three years and I’m still getting blown away by its abilities 😁 absolutely love it!
Hi and many compliments for your video I’m so sorry for this question but I’m veri gratefull if you can explain me better witch is the difference between fe0 and fe2. Sorry but I don’t understand very well… they seem a lot similar
Hello Todarello76. On the Equinox 800 there is a small difference between FE0 and FE2. But I think your question was what’s the difference between FE and F2. FE is used more for difficult iron targets. F2 is used for steel bottle caps. I use FE on old farm fields and locations that have a lot of rusty chunky difficult iron. I use F2 at the beach and parks were those pesky bottles caps can sound pretty good. The higher you set Iron bias, the less time you need to spend on analyzing tricky ferrous targets. I use zero 90 percent of the time but in some situations I increase it around 4. Situations that I increase FE is when I’m dealing with a lot of difficult chunky iron. The higher I set it, the easier I find it is to analyze if it’s iron or not. It’s really is a give take setting though. There are a lot of complicated situations that can trick a metal detector. Rusty iron with a large surface, a situation you have mix metals like nails, bottle caps and a coin mixed in there. Zero iron bias gives you the natural response, the higher you set it, the more likely the machine will see it as a ferrous. You can set it as low or as high as you need. If you find yourself digging a lot of chunky iron and before getting to frustrated you can up your bias a little at a time. Next time you are in a situation, I highly recommend you try the iron bias and see if you like it. There are other things you can do to stabilize your machine in high trash, if there are too many falsifying signals that appear. Use a high recovery speed with a lower sensitivity. This will help reduce falsifying signals created when we pump the coil on a tip of a nail or spike. Using all metal in high iron trash is key, a tricky chunky iron will have a two tones appear simultaneously. You will hear the mid tone with the iron tone together. I like calling this the iron double tone.. I hope this clarifies it up a bit. ☺️
@@RelicDirtyhands Wow!!! what a mega comprehensive answer! THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH. Now I understand much more bettere the bias utility… Generally I detect on the beach so if you have any other suggestion I’ll be gratefull 🤗☺️
@@7TNT6 mineralized conditions, it’s the one area I lack field experience in. I would have to drive 6 to 8 hours to find myself a salt water beach ☺️ Beach 1 is for milder conditions like dry sand but even some dry beaches can be heavily mineralized and beach 2 will be most stable. When you detect In salt water or even if the coil is just submerged, the concentration of salt present is usually higher. In that case beach 2 should be considered for wet sand or detecting in the water. A friend of mine from the treasure coast prefers using Park 1 vs the beach modes. Park one eliminates the itty bitty bits. He detects mild salt conditions but there are some intense beaches out there that park modes may struggle with. Another setting associated with mineralized conditions is ground balance. I’d recommend not using tracking and to use the auto ground balance if needed. The multi IQ is amazing with mineralization and I hear many salt water detectorist state they leave the ground balance at zero but slightly reduce their sensitivity. I’m anxious for the day I can experience salt conditions to have my own opinion lol.. this is the information I’ve picked up in the manual and what I’ve heard others say 😁. Wish I could of helped more on this topic. 😌
Lewis, I personally prefer zero iron bias. The higher you set it, the more likely the machine will classify some items as iron. So it is a personal setting 😊 I’ve used it a few times when I was in a rush or scoping a new area, once I’m at an area with potential I reduce again to zero.
@@RelicDirtyhands I've had it on 2 for aa long as I can remember. Now I'm thinking; what have I walked over ane missed 😂 This probably sounds like a dumb question but if I have all metals turned off and iron bias on 0. What will I expect to happen?
Lewis the iron bias setting at 2 on the 800 compared to zero is not a large difference from what I have seen. 😊 Try it out at zero and see, you can always turn it back up. I personally love hearing the natural response, I’ve learned what falsifying iron sounds like. I use zero because I like to choose to dig or not 😊 I like hearing it all. If it’s set for 2 on the 600 then yes there is a larger difference.
@@RelicDirtyhands that makes sense. An iron signal is clearly noticeable, im one of those that likes silence until something non ferrous crops up. So currently always run all metals off and iron bias on 2. Only iron I find is when it's a huge lump. Might turn iron bias off. Can't hurt can it
2ooser there are a lot of test I would love to do 😂 .. the more I have played around with it, the more I’m enjoying it. I personally feel nothing works better than FE 0 to squeak out a good target amongst the trash. F2 6-9 I use when I’m limited to time.. example seeded events or scoping larger areas looking for a hot spot.
2ooser I should also add I don’t trust air test as much as experience, testing and trying.. a high iron bias will reduce the falsifying on rusty iron but in the soil, rust leaches into the soil around the item.. If a silver is within that hallo effect, a high iron bias wont catch it.. I can’t replicate that effect. Almost impossible to give an accurate test 👍
Hi Doug, I did this test to get a better idea how it would react to falsifying iron. It did help but over time I learned more about the iron bias. I tested F2 on what I called bottle cap beach and it was an improvement. To be truthful, I always keep my iron bias on zero, after a few years you can really tell the difference between a good and bad signal. Personally I feel using zero has really helped me better understand the capabilities of this machine. A higher iron bias could classify a desired target as ferrous. When you have a bunch of mix metals together, I’d rather take my chances and dig it ☺️
Out and About with the Nox I’m anxious to see it in real conditions, I know I really worked it to try to repeat some of the falsing. Many of those signals I would have passed.. but that big square nail and halo effects came in nice, I’m clad I did this test.
Great video. I finally updated mine and did not know how to use it. I keep hitting tons of bottle caps, hopefully this will help. Any advice on how to not dig caps?
Masonic3 F2 works on some bottles caps but not all.. I’m also a Relic hunter and dig all those bottle cap signals 14,15,16 and 17 because usually they aren’t bottle caps.. gold hunters may say the same, if I’m at a beach I’ll dig them to find gold.. I did come across bottle cap beach.. I found F2 9 stopped most of the bottle caps but not the aluminium ones.. I also noticed it chopped up signals. F29 was the only level that muted them out but it also mutes out some good targets. I’ve seen some use the 10khz trick. It seems in 10 the target ID number will reduce on bottle caps.. I use 50 tones and noticed how a bottle cap has jumpier TID numbers. A gold ring is often solid on one number and not jumpy like bottle caps. There are a few tricks but it’s really about training your ear.. I personally prefer the original FE 0 and hunt like that 90 percent of the time. If I’m in a rush and don’t have much time or need to cover a lot of ground in a short period.. using a high iron bias, I’ll dig way less but also leave more behind.. it really is a preference. Example one of my last video I detected a drowned village extreme iron..water levels were rising back up. I decided to run a high F2 to cover a lot of ground.. I found a lot less but I ended up with my two best finds of a lifetime. Yet aluminium sounded so much better 😝 iron bias is a give and take setting.
Metal Pirate Girl yes! I think I know what you’re saying! With out all the falsing, I found the better targets jumped out more.. catching my attention easier.. I noticed a difference.. I managed to cover way more ground too!
Thanks a very good demo for a very versatile detector, it looks good for the junkyard areas I search and also it would have a use on some of the gold fields i search, but at the end of the day if steel bottle caps are overwhelming use Tesoro’s ED 180 discrimination with a concentric search coil problem solved ( shame they are no longer in business) Thanks again for sharing happy hunting and good luck to you.
FE is the original Iron bias, F2 was an updated version that helps discriminate bottle caps and other falsifying targets. Use the settings button and toggle to the last one. That’s your recovery speed, press and hold the settings button for a second or two, this will open up the advanced setting iron bias once you have FE press the accept reject button, this will bring you to F2..
You’re welcome 😊 I was way to curious and had too test it out lol! I’m loving the new feature, but I’m a big fan of FE 0.. today I have FE set at 0 and have my F2 maxed at 9.. I toggle between them as I as I need confirmation if I’m getting tiered of falsifying signals or bottle caps.
First thing I do is reduce the sensitivity between 18-20 in extremely high iron areas. My preference is zero iron bias, I’ve learned the signals over the years and prefer to make the decision to dig or not.. I also created this tutorial on the iron bias. ruclips.net/video/3P4BhhysfWk/видео.html
Not depth but the abitily of finding masked targets. The higher you set it, the less falsing iron you will dig but you will also hear less masked good targets. If you are experienced and you're rehunting sites you have been over many times, you will want zero iron bias. If you are a beginer, using higher iron bias will help dig less iron as you learn the tones. Nail tips are hard to isolate, they can squeak high but hard to get a repeatable target ID number. Big iron can be determined by pinpointing, it can tell you large or small, deep or shallow. I hope this helps! Take care Laurie
Brian Smith a high F2 is a good option to have if your rushed for time or need to cover large area. I personally prefer FE 0.. I’ve learned the machine well after two years and prefer the natural response..I do find F2 to be a little choppier, making it easier to walk away from a good signals.
Stephen Everingham you have a choice using one or the other. If you choose one the other is off. FE Zero is the natural response. It’s not really turning off. Here is a tutorial on Iron Bias ruclips.net/video/3P4BhhysfWk/видео.html
J Crowe I’ve been using it and it’s been fun. Personally I love using FE 0 but I’ve ran into situations where running F2 6-9 has been a great option. At a seeded event where speed was a factor., when scoping and trying to locate hot spots.. I could cover a lot more ground.. but when I’m at my own sites and have time, running FE 0 works miracles in high iron and trashy sites.. 👍
Relic Dirtyhands I’m finding that running wide open. I dig a lot of deep iron. I have been using the nox for some time. But far from a master. Maybe the 6” coil will help with the really trashy sites ? I’m not expert but trying to learn as much as I can to gain advantage. Trying to soak up all I can.. would love to be able to use this 800 to its top potential 🙌🏻
J Crowe, that’s why I created the equinox tutorial series Minelab Equinox Tutorial ruclips.net/p/PLpymZHu8sv5nwrk34ID53OxszE8fjuDFC I wanted to be able to run it at it’s full potential as well.. Adjustments to recovery speed and iron bias have its positives and negatives.. max depth, low recovery speed, but you could miss targets close together. High recovery speed, a bit less depth but you capture things closer together.. Iron bias 0 is the natural response, as you raise the iron bias, it reduces the natural response and falsifying on rusty iron or the “halo effect” but running it too high, you may not capture a target in close proximity or being masked by iron and or rust leaching making the soil mineralized around the target. I personally have found myself using 6 recovery speed, with my swing rate it seems to suit me the best. I love zero, I use 50 tones and can often tell if it’s iron falsifying. Big iron can still get me, but if I used my pinpoint mode more often, I would probably dig less of it. You can hear by x’ing over the target if it’s small or big, deep or shallow .. Definitely play around with the settings and find your preference for the type of site you encounter. When I need a mind break or want to cherry pick I throw my bias way up 😊 I did buy a small coil and love using it in really brushy areas it’s great.. but still prefer my standard coil for high trash areas.
It depends on your personal tolerance of digging iron, I Use 0 for hunted out locations, cellar holes etc.. I dig more falsifying iron but it allows me to pick out good targets in heavily masked areas.. if I’m limited to time or really feel like digging less iron I bring it up to 6.. if I’m still digging fox holes for falsifying iron I’ll bring it up too it’s max 9.. all of these adjustments are give and take.. low gives you a natural response and you dig more false signals, the higher you raise it the more it may not see mask targets in close proximity to the iron. 👍
Thanks for this video, it appears the F2 upgrade is great on bottle caps but dare I say questionable on iron nails. I dug a couple square nails today that popped a bit like your test at F2 9. I love not having to dig bottle caps. I know the manual says it is “best” if used in all metal, but do you know if it still functions in discrimination mode? Thanks for all your wonderful and amazing tutorials and videos! ❤️
Nick. C ha ha, I was hoping people could figure what suits them best, honestly it’s about the user.. if you’re in a rush, a high iron bias may produce more finds than trash... a low one, it takes more time, you will dig more nails, but you’ll leave less behind 👍
Lol 0, I’ve been detecting my sites for 10 years and managed to find some keepers with this machine , I used to throw it into 40khz for a mind break in high trash.. I may just switch it from low to high now.., but I’ve gotten feedback from some really good detectorist that tried the F2 9 in really tough sites they came home with even more keepers.. ha ha, I may be convinced to increase the iron bias next time
Some consider just the mineralized soil giving a halo effect but so do tips of nails and spikes.. I wonder if there are two different terms.. in this case as you approach a tip it would false from the side of the coil. 🤔
@@RelicDirtyhands I associate iron with halo effect.. Which simply means to me a strong ghost signal caused by iron leaching into the soil after many years.. In some cases just the halo signal remains and the object is long gone through deterioration...
I haven’t dug any iron ghost signals yet. The EQ is great with mineralization.. over the years I’ve heard many different definitions of the halo effect. The better the iron is forged the better the signal. Do you use zero iron bias?
@@RelicDirtyhands You may of dealt with iron halo and not realized it? Have you ever dig a signal that disappeared on you? Sometimes it may be falsing but more often it’s a iron halo effect in play...
u can only have one or the other either fe or f2, if u ran fe on 6 u would lose depth were if u use f2 on 6 or even 9 u lose no depth, so the f2 is a winner all day.
Can you explain how you loose depth with iron bias? I do know recovery speed affects depth but not iron bias. Now if you use iron bias too high, you risk missing stuff because it classifies it more likely to be iron. Using it to low, you may dig more false signals.. this is FE ruclips.net/video/3P4BhhysfWk/видео.html now F2 works similar just an new enhanced version ruclips.net/video/zpCMyvN66qo/видео.html.
U lose depth because u are running through the descrimination circuit if u do a test with the original fe iron bias on 0 and then on say 6 u will notice a difference in depth, we have ran f2 at 9 and tested on a cut quarter at 6” there was no loss of depth on f2
I would have to test it out, I’ve had a few technical friends tell me it doesn’t, the manual also doesn’t mention it, nor any of the specs.. I guess only way is to test it 👍
hard yakka lol, since mid August I’ve been extremely busy, trying as hard as I can.. just came back from NY and working on that video. We found a lot of great stuff.. I’m hoping to upload it by the end of the day.. I’ve already put in about 8 hours on this one.. another 6 and this video should be done. Keeping figures crossed my system doesn’t crash.. lol
How is it in reality under the ground.. they are not nicely placed apart 😁👍 also rust leached into the soil around iron.. this test was just a visual of what’s happening.. I was able to isolate the target accurately
Think of it this way, you can only choose one, if you’re struggling with iron use FE, if you’re struggling with other ferrous targets like bottle caps use F2? I say FE on Fields, F2 for parks and beaches.. the higher you set it, the less falsifying on iron or bottle caps. It’s best to use the lowest settings that seem to help.
Too bad you don't show how bad the Nox is on Canadian clad !!!! The sounds it makes are very annoying I would hate to have to listen to that all day.. Rusty nails, bottlecaps and CLAD a thing of the past. HAHAHAHAHA
Camera home actually it’s not that bad, it’s just most people don’t dig those jumpy nickel tones in multi.. in 40 kHz it loves our clad! All detectors I have used were not great on the new canadian steel core clad.. I’d rather have a machine hitting on the different composition and telling me the truth than not. I love the sound of good targets with this machine..
Absolute waist off time, BECAUSE YOU simply did not mention if you was zeroing out the opposite Fe or F2. We have know way off knowing if your still running say, Fe at 4 when testing f2 as say six etc etc etc.
You can only use one at a time, when I tested I Fe4 I tested against F2 4.. I tested the same setting on both. Let me make this simple for you, FE to deal with iron, F2 to deal with bottle caps, simple enough? This video was a test to see how they reacted. You seem really upset.. the higher FE is set, the easier it is to identify iron, F2 the higher it’s set, the uglier the bottle cap signal will sound. I can help you through your learning curve, I wrote a free digital book to help explain things. I taught many people on how to master their Equinox’s. If you would like a link to a tutorial series, my book, or even one on one tutoring, I do this for free. You can send me an email. Dirtyhands001@gmail.com
Desculpe por isso. O viés de ferro original é ótimo para locais antigos. O novo ajuda com o lixo mais recente, como tampas de garrafa. Eu sempre uso zero. Prefiro tomar a decisão de cavar ou não.
Sorry you feel that way, did you watch any of the tutorials series I created? I explain iron bias in detail, including a tutorial on each setting and functions. ruclips.net/p/PLpymZHu8sv5nwrk34ID53OxszE8fjuDFC
Still ain't a clue what that setting does. Lol.. more stuff for me to wonder about.
Rico Nagrom Hi 👋 I made a tutorial on how iron bias works Minelab Equinox Iron Bias Advanced Settings Tutorial ruclips.net/video/3P4BhhysfWk/видео.html maybe this can help
@@RelicDirtyhands I dont think the video you linked mentioned the difference between FE and F2. Thanks
@@iurunner34 When they created F2 it was an improvement over the original FE for bottle caps and falsifying iron. With the latest update 3.0 it helped a lot with falsifying iron.
@@RelicDirtyhands Thank you. Your videos have helped out a lot from a conceptual perspective.
@@iurunner34 Are you having any problems with iron?
I am using it. Last two days. No metal steel whatever they are made of Bottle Caps. Aluminum however, a few, but it has put a halt to the crazy collection of Bottle Caps per hunt. Nice Video. Thx for sharing.
Awesome feedback love it! What do you set your F2 at?
4-6
Mate, I think that you are an absolute gem! Your tutorials are all top drawer. I BS you not. Thank you so much!
Tim Rogers thank you so much ☺️ and you’re very welcome ☺️
So I am extremely impressed with your skill set. You have great understanding of the machine and what it is doing.
Thank you so much ☺️. I’ve continued to learn since and I have a really big appreciation for this machine. It’s incredible when you fully understand it.
Very well explained videos. I am new to Nox 800, and have watched all 27 of them, Brilliant thanks very much
Wow! Thank you so much 😊 I’m happy you enjoyed them 😊👍
great start to the video which was really appreciated but then lost its way with the switching between FE and F0 etc...so thought it was straightforward but then you made it more complicated.
Lol, sorry about that ☺️👍
If your having issues with bottle caps, pop out of multi go thru the frequencies. Just learning this machine, picked that up on some forum. It works.
Curly Maple Bandit good trick to get your ear used to the signal 👍
Curly Maple Bandit I also created a tutorial playlist to help really learn the machine Minelab Equinox Tutorial ruclips.net/p/PLpymZHu8sv5nwrk34ID53OxszE8fjuDFC
alos appreciate the review and the support you have brought to the detecting community , especially for Canada !
Matt Eastman whohoo you’re welcome, I do it because I love this hobby so much 😊
im not sure why many people recommend factory reset setting. that means to reset the whole detector and all the programs pre set by some one. i will not recommend a F R but will a single reset , meaning only one of the profiles instead of the whole detector settings
It really depends, for this test I wanted to show everyone I was in the default settings. It’s so quick, but you’re right. For others they can reset just the one profile if they wanted to. 👍
nice! i am new to this activity, and your video made it easier to understand when Iron is likely to look like something else and the effect of using "iron bias".
Yay wonderful, welcome to a great hobby. Being new you will find a higher iron bias much easier.. have you watched my other tutorials on iron bias? Minelab Equinox Iron Bias Advanced Settings Tutorial ruclips.net/video/3P4BhhysfWk/видео.html and the one on the new F2? Minelab Equinox New F2 Iron Bias 2 0 Update Tutorial ruclips.net/video/zpCMyvN66qo/видео.html
Very helpful,thanks.I keep iron off, but what gives me the most problems are the halos on coins, caps and nails.I updated so I will use iron on,and give it a try tomorrow.
You’re welcome, I would love to hear your feedback tomorrow after trying it 👍
Good informative video. The problem is there is always a trade off. You can leave the detector on F2-9 and know that you will steer clear of the bottle caps on the beach. However, if there is a ring next to the bottle cap the chances are you will miss it even with a high recovery speed. Lower the iron bias to get the ring but suffer with falsing on mineralised sand and agro of digging bottle caps.
Agree, I’ve always stuck to a zero iron bias, if you reduce your sensitivity a notch or two below stable it decreases the falsifying nails.. also it allows you to recognize those bad targets. I rather made the decision to dig or not to dig lol.. ☺️👍..
I’ve been testing the update in My Battlefield Yard and it’s amazing the relics and coins I’m finding after pounding my yard for 2 years! My yard is full of square nails!
That’s awesome feedback, what number are you running at?
Relic Dirtyhands I go out and use different setting everyday I listen to the tones don’t worry about the meter. This program is unmasking even better in the iron! Eagle Coat at 9” came back very good 2 nails in the hole with it! I got a Tomback cuff with 7 square nails in a area I have hit with Blisstool V6 and Deus! Unmasking is awesome!
Craig Talley - Hardcore Metal Detecting whoohooo that sounds awesome 👍
@@craigtalley That's the real trick to unmasking. Dig more. LOL. In a heavy iron zone I find it fairly easy to pick out good targets and I don't even have a multi frequency machine. My kruzer even uses a 13 inch coil in the mess just fine. You open the machine wide open, listen to what's normally going on and dig anything that sounds abnormal. Voila! Targets unmasked. Go low and slow and use your brain. You'll catch onto the pattern quick and be able to tell what's most likely a nail from not a nail with a reasonable margin of error BUT.......since you're wide open you'll never lose anything. If you`re running an 800 I would also suggest giving gold mode a try. I`ve been using deep mode on my machine.......which is similar to gold mode. That scaling audio feature is really helpful in picking out higher conductors of significant size from lower conductors or smaller size. Once you know what the general volume response for nails is......you can start picking out anything not a nail based on the volume alone. It`s really cool! Noisy but cool. :)
Bill Kennedy thanks I’ve been trying the different modes to find more targets! Amazing results!
So because our Canadian clad is steel, if we use the new f2 higher settings to get rid of bottle caps and nails I imagine we can forget about finding clad, would like to see a video test with that in mind.
Rick Robison lol maybe I should have added those results, down the board I had a 2016 quarter and a dime.. I’ll have to review the footage again to confirm but I lost the dime around 6, it rang down to 0 / 1. The quarter stayed strong but I guess it will also depend on how much rust is coming through. If I remember though, the clad seemed less jumpy but hit lower than I’m used to.. that’s the part I need to confirm again. 😁
Relic Dirtyhands Thanks for the test, I need to update my 600, still running original software and then try myself, but don’t have access to a computer at the moment.
With this new update the 600 will have a low light setting as well 👍 it’s my second year with it and it’s my first update I do ☺️
"Pffft, Canada, it's not even a real country" - Homer Simpson
You know why all the trees in Minnesota lean north, right? Because Canada sucks. :-)
No offense, just having a little fun. I have a beer or two inside me.
Fantastic video about Fe2 on the updated Equinox 800!! I ran the 800 so long in Fe , I just never figured out the Fe2. Then I also got the 900 which only has one Iron Bias...but it is the Fe2 from the 800! I run the 900 in dp tones with Fe= 9. Started that on the gulf beaches and get almost no bottlecaps. Modelos have foil covering 😂. Even the bottlecaps that try to false give a scratchy squelch sound.
I'm going to compare the 800 Fe2=9 and 900 Fe=9 and see if they read the same. Thanks!!🍀😀👍
That’s awesome, definitely test them out. Eric is using the 900 now, he’s really enjoying Fe 4 at the beaches and his bottle cap finds have really reduced! I’m using the Manticore and loving it. Love Minelabs ha ha! ☺️👍
Tell him using the 900 in Beach 2, Fe=9, dp tones he'll only dig 1% of the caps. Depth will be much greater than other tones. I don't miss good targets. Still with those settings digging rings 19-24 inches in the wet sand.
looks like its a little better cranked up at 6, 7, 8, 9... might help me on the beach :-) Thank you for sharing that !
I noticed that as well 👍
Have you noticed what percussions come from using either Fe or f2 at 6-9? Like on good targets? Loss of depth? Will it cancel out a good signal that is close to the nail? I am amazed at the abiity to cancel out those nails with FE at 6. I have no idea why I haven't put setting it higher. I have never even set it above 4 . Glad I watched this
I’ve tested these out after this video in real conditions, now I personally love FE 0, I prefer having the most natural response, as a relic hunter, I don’t mind digging iron but I do recognize falsifying nails signal. The higher you set this function, the more likely you will miss items that are mask by iron. A high recovery speed, less depth, more separation. Low recovery, more depth but less separation. 👍 I don’t recall seeing anything that said iron bias reduces depth though.
3 main types of bottle caps
1.) Steel
2.) Tin Coated
3.) Zinc Coated
Variations? Aluminum foil
coated and at at least 1 rare
chrome looking cap.
Pull tabs also vary in metallic composition. One difference is the iron content.
Iron. A close look at the alloys used in the composition of modern steel and iron related products should be printed in Minelab's manual. The list is extensive and complex. Iron in nature is common and very frequently an associate of precious metals. Aluminum
silicates are a component of certain gemstones.
I have yet to do the update 🤷
I've got visitors in town and have quiet bedtime to watch your video ☺ Thanks for your video BTW, it helped me.
You’re welcome, I’m sooo happy they helped 😊
Great informative video!👍I tried to update but won’t work on my Windows 7 computer. I think our laptop has Windows 10 though. Can’t wait to try it out at a few places I have in mind. I use low iron bias currently and I encounter nails so often but have gotten very good at identifying them. I get low 20’s, then speed up and tighten the swing over the target and as soon as I see 36,37,38’s, I move on. I will always dig it if I get that in both directions but is most often two nails in different directions. That is how I pulled out a Dragon Slayer token amongst square nail signals 12” down. If I could even reduce this a bit, it would speed things up immensely.
google window 7 equinox update. It can be done.
It failed the first time I tried it on my Win 7 computer, but when I ran it the second time it worked.
Looks like others have been able to, have you ran any other updates? Ive always used iron bias low but I do spend more time analyzing my signals.. we hunt heavily hunted sites so a low iron bias suits me fine.. but at some of the drowned villages, I can see how a higher iron bias would save me time. 😁
Got it installed from our Windows 10 laptop and took it to my very trashy park at the lake ‘proving grounds’ for some practice. I went to F2 - 9 and it was amazing! Mostly old rusty bottle caps there. It really clears the noise out of the mid tone range. This should make it so much easier to find gold as they seem to fall into a similar range. Oh and while I was practicing, I pulled out the largest silver ring to date. Screaming 35, no markings on it and crudely made. Very chunky!
kepvalley whohhooo! I tried it too yesterday, you could even see all the bottle caps on the surface and just below.. it’s also a nail yard.. I dug zero nails and regular caps.. I did dig a lot of aluminum ones.. man I covered 3 to 5 times the area than I usually do..
I wonder if the nox 600 then would only be good up to F2 6 and thus would not work as well with this new addition
Unsure but I use zero iron bias at all times. I’d rather hear it’s natural response better ☺️👍
Since I am new to my Equinox in metal detecting, and have never really understood the iron bias my question to you would be the following. Is the intent of the iron bias when using a higher number to make a metal object that’s not a coin sound in the lower range? Instead of getting some high numbers and high tones and making it sound like a coin when it’s not?
I find it uglies up a signal, for example a bottle cap, the higher it’s set the uglier the bottle cap signal sounds, it sounds choppier. If you are struggling with chunky iron or bottle caps if you raise your F2 it should help. I use it before I get too discouraged, running a zero iron bias and hearing the natural response is best, as you raise the iron bias there is a small chance of missing some masked finds. It’s a give take, In extreme locations I would raise my Iron bias to 4 on the 800. It just makes it easier to recognize some ferrous trash better. I hope this helps.
Good test however it would be interesting seeing it done with your targets isolated and not having other targets within the coil sweep. My in field results so far were bad - trash sounded good and numbers similar to pennies/dimes. Managed to dig trash only including complete aluminum can at 12 inches+. Used all metal mode, 20-22 sens, auto ground bal, park 2, 5 tones. Will try again at another park but had better results previous to update by notching out offending trash numbers.
One thing about cans, I noticed in field mode aluminum cans have a jumpier target ID numbers.. bounces around more.
@@RelicDirtyhands do you know if it's recommended to do a factory reset after installing the update?
DesignCutters I’ve been told it’s not necessary to do.. I did a reset to show everyone I was in default settings
What were your results like with objects further apart? I’ve subbed as you are the first vid I’ve got to see with the new comparison. I updated mine nearly a week ago and just can’t get the chance to get out it’s driving me mad lol
The Rhins Ranger I went out to the two of most extreme trash sites this weekend, where this new iron bias was perfect to test.. just like in the video I needed to crank it up to 9 to avoid caps... now I never have anything far apart.. especially in the ground. In reality I should have had it all piled together lol
Relic Dirtyhands - do you think you will miss other important targets like hammered coins etc?
The Rhins Ranger iron bias is a trade off to dig less trash.. a lower iron bias is always recommended if you don’t want to miss any targets.. but If you’re spending a lot of time digging nails, a higher iron bias is recommended.
I have hunted 4 times with this machine and done good but i am having a hard time in sound difference between target
What mode are you using and how many tones? Since I had previous experience I started right away with mode2, this has a default of 50 tones. Like all machines it takes time to learn them. The more you dig the more you will start to recognize a full tone, large or small objects, masked targets and even coins on edge. If you use 50 tones it will help better identify targets, if you use 5 tones it may increase the audio learning curve. To reduce frustration at first you can try digging full solid repeatable tones both ways. Swing over like an x pattern, if it comes in good dig it. Once you get used to the tones and target ID’s, then start digging the iffy targets. In this video I show falsifying on the tip of nails, wires and spikes. Reducing sensitivity a bit helps stop the amplified signal. A tip is hard to isolate because it’s effect is on the edge of the coil, you only get the signal one way.. a silver masked, you will get a similar response but as you circle and swing over doing a * star like pattern you will be able to repeat it in some angles.. 75% of the time nails are only one way. 18 and up is often, silver, copper, aluminium but small targets made of these metals, depending on size will give you a lower repeatable tone, example small flat buttons can come in much lower than 18. Dig a lot and have fun, the more you dig the more you will recognize those exciting tones 😊
Another tip is when learning the machine, make sure to use pinpoint. It will tell you deep or shallow, big or small 👍
@@luckyday639 it really does and it just keeps getting better! It’s been almost three years and I’m still getting blown away by its abilities 😁 absolutely love it!
We'll see how it does in the field tomorrow. Gonna leave it on F2 4 to start. 👍⛏👍
Tc and happy hunting my friends
Let me know if you see a difference, we have rain all day tomorrow 😢
Wow..., it was a valuable lesson for me, thank you for uploading 👍
You’re welcome 😊
Hi and many compliments for your video I’m so sorry for this question but I’m veri gratefull if you can explain me better witch is the difference between fe0 and fe2. Sorry but I don’t understand very well… they seem a lot
similar
Hello Todarello76. On the Equinox 800 there is a small difference between FE0 and FE2. But I think your question was what’s the difference between FE and F2. FE is used more for difficult iron targets. F2 is used for steel bottle caps. I use FE on old farm fields and locations that have a lot of rusty chunky difficult iron. I use F2 at the beach and parks were those pesky bottles caps can sound pretty good.
The higher you set Iron bias, the less time you need to spend on analyzing tricky ferrous targets. I use zero 90 percent of the time but in some situations I increase it around 4. Situations that I increase FE is when I’m dealing with a lot of difficult chunky iron. The higher I set it, the easier I find it is to analyze if it’s iron or not. It’s really is a give take setting though. There are a lot of complicated situations that can trick a metal detector. Rusty iron with a large surface, a situation you have mix metals like nails, bottle caps and a coin mixed in there. Zero iron bias gives you the natural response, the higher you set it, the more likely the machine will see it as a ferrous. You can set it as low or as high as you need. If you find yourself digging a lot of chunky iron and before getting to frustrated you can up your bias a little at a time.
Next time you are in a situation, I highly recommend you try the iron bias and see if you like it. There are other things you can do to stabilize your machine in high trash, if there are too many falsifying signals that appear. Use a high recovery speed with a lower sensitivity. This will help reduce falsifying signals created when we pump the coil on a tip of a nail or spike. Using all metal in high iron trash is key, a tricky chunky iron will have a two tones appear simultaneously. You will hear the mid tone with the iron tone together. I like calling this the iron double tone.. I hope this clarifies it up a bit. ☺️
@@RelicDirtyhands Wow!!! what a mega comprehensive answer! THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH. Now I understand much more bettere the bias utility… Generally I detect on the beach so if you have any other suggestion I’ll be gratefull 🤗☺️
@@7TNT6 you’re very welcome ☺️ are you detecting fresh water beaches or saltwater beaches?
@@RelicDirtyhands salt water
@@7TNT6 mineralized conditions, it’s the one area I lack field experience in. I would have to drive 6 to 8 hours to find myself a salt water beach ☺️ Beach 1 is for milder conditions like dry sand but even some dry beaches can be heavily mineralized and beach 2 will be most stable. When you detect In salt water or even if the coil is just submerged, the concentration of salt present is usually higher. In that case beach 2 should be considered for wet sand or detecting in the water. A friend of mine from the treasure coast prefers using Park 1 vs the beach modes. Park one eliminates the itty bitty bits. He detects mild salt conditions but there are some intense beaches out there that park modes may struggle with.
Another setting associated with mineralized conditions is ground balance. I’d recommend not using tracking and to use the auto ground balance if needed. The multi IQ is amazing with mineralization and I hear many salt water detectorist state they leave the ground balance at zero but slightly reduce their sensitivity. I’m anxious for the day I can experience salt conditions to have my own opinion lol.. this is the information I’ve picked up in the manual and what I’ve heard others say 😁. Wish I could of helped more on this topic. 😌
(F2 and FE) mode do not work at the same time, or F2 is active or FE is active.
Correct!
What would be a good balance to have F2? In the middle kind of thing
Lewis, I personally prefer zero iron bias. The higher you set it, the more likely the machine will classify some items as iron. So it is a personal setting 😊 I’ve used it a few times when I was in a rush or scoping a new area, once I’m at an area with potential I reduce again to zero.
@@RelicDirtyhands I've had it on 2 for aa long as I can remember. Now I'm thinking; what have I walked over ane missed 😂
This probably sounds like a dumb question but if I have all metals turned off and iron bias on 0. What will I expect to happen?
Lewis the iron bias setting at 2 on the 800 compared to zero is not a large difference from what I have seen. 😊 Try it out at zero and see, you can always turn it back up. I personally love hearing the natural response, I’ve learned what falsifying iron sounds like. I use zero because I like to choose to dig or not 😊 I like hearing it all. If it’s set for 2 on the 600 then yes there is a larger difference.
@@RelicDirtyhands that makes sense. An iron signal is clearly noticeable, im one of those that likes silence until something non ferrous crops up. So currently always run all metals off and iron bias on 2. Only iron I find is when it's a huge lump. Might turn iron bias off. Can't hurt can it
Very well done and helpful!
Thank you 😊
I loved this video would like to see how it reacts with a silver dime or quarter next to these in the new setting. Maybe that can be your next video.
2ooser there are a lot of test I would love to do 😂 .. the more I have played around with it, the more I’m enjoying it. I personally feel nothing works better than FE 0 to squeak out a good target amongst the trash. F2 6-9 I use when I’m limited to time.. example seeded events or scoping larger areas looking for a hot spot.
2ooser I should also add I don’t trust air test as much as experience, testing and trying.. a high iron bias will reduce the falsifying on rusty iron but in the soil, rust leaches into the soil around the item.. If a silver is within that hallo effect, a high iron bias wont catch it.. I can’t replicate that effect. Almost impossible to give an accurate test 👍
Would be nice to hear your comment on your abservance of test
Hi Doug, I did this test to get a better idea how it would react to falsifying iron. It did help but over time I learned more about the iron bias. I tested F2 on what I called bottle cap beach and it was an improvement. To be truthful, I always keep my iron bias on zero, after a few years you can really tell the difference between a good and bad signal. Personally I feel using zero has really helped me better understand the capabilities of this machine. A higher iron bias could classify a desired target as ferrous. When you have a bunch of mix metals together, I’d rather take my chances and dig it ☺️
Very interesting
It was, anxious to try it out in some extreme trash area’s 👍
you have all your bottle caps etc to close together.
History_Under_Beneath lol in reality it’s way worse in the ground, listening is key.. the EQ really isolates the signal.. I’m sure you noticed that?
Very interesting .Thanks for your video! 👍👍
Khaled Pesca Coins you’re welcome 😊
Interesting results.
Out and About with the Nox I’m anxious to see it in real conditions, I know I really worked it to try to repeat some of the falsing. Many of those signals I would have passed.. but that big square nail and halo effects came in nice, I’m clad I did this test.
Great video. I finally updated mine and did not know how to use it. I keep hitting tons of bottle caps, hopefully this will help. Any advice on how to not dig caps?
Masonic3 F2 works on some bottles caps but not all.. I’m also a Relic hunter and dig all those bottle cap signals 14,15,16 and 17 because usually they aren’t bottle caps.. gold hunters may say the same, if I’m at a beach I’ll dig them to find gold.. I did come across bottle cap beach.. I found F2 9 stopped most of the bottle caps but not the aluminium ones.. I also noticed it chopped up signals. F29 was the only level that muted them out but it also mutes out some good targets. I’ve seen some use the 10khz trick. It seems in 10 the target ID number will reduce on bottle caps.. I use 50 tones and noticed how a bottle cap has jumpier TID numbers. A gold ring is often solid on one number and not jumpy like bottle caps. There are a few tricks but it’s really about training your ear.. I personally prefer the original FE 0 and hunt like that 90 percent of the time. If I’m in a rush and don’t have much time or need to cover a lot of ground in a short period.. using a high iron bias, I’ll dig way less but also leave more behind.. it really is a preference. Example one of my last video I detected a drowned village extreme iron..water levels were rising back up. I decided to run a high F2 to cover a lot of ground.. I found a lot less but I ended up with my two best finds of a lifetime. Yet aluminium sounded so much better 😝 iron bias is a give and take setting.
@@RelicDirtyhands awesome, great advice. I will check out some more of your vids.
Did I hear you say that you like Park2 for the six inch coil? Why is that? Thanks for your videos. They are very informative.
No, I used park 2 to get the smaller items. I said itty bitty ☺️ habit I guess ☺️
Nice test. I tested my at the beach it was interesting seemed a tad bit clearer tones too
Metal Pirate Girl yes! I think I know what you’re saying! With out all the falsing, I found the better targets jumped out more.. catching my attention easier.. I noticed a difference.. I managed to cover way more ground too!
Thanks a very good demo for a very versatile detector, it looks good for the junkyard areas I search and also it would have a use on some of the gold fields i search, but at the end of the day if steel bottle caps are overwhelming use Tesoro’s ED 180 discrimination with a concentric search coil problem solved ( shame they are no longer in business) Thanks again for sharing happy hunting and good luck to you.
Brian Sparks I never had the opportunity to try a Tesoro but I do love what the Equinox can do👍
SUBBED! looks like a nice channel. Can't wait to watch this video. THX
Thank you 😊
Great stuff our kid, I'm off to my local Sherwood forest UK, and trying out fe 9
Sounds enchanting 😊 I’ve only heard about Sherwood Forest in stories as a child 😊 please let me how your hunt goes on 9? I’d love the feedback 👍
Love this video.....I would have set it and run across all the items in a row then reset
That would have been much easier ha ha!
How do you switch from f2. To FE ? What is the difference?
FE is the original Iron bias, F2 was an updated version that helps discriminate bottle caps and other falsifying targets. Use the settings button and toggle to the last one. That’s your recovery speed, press and hold the settings button for a second or two, this will open up the advanced setting iron bias once you have FE press the accept reject button, this will bring you to F2..
Hello 👍👌👋 awesome video again thank you!!!
You’re welcome 😊 I was way to curious and had too test it out lol! I’m loving the new feature, but I’m a big fan of FE 0.. today I have FE set at 0 and have my F2 maxed at 9.. I toggle between them as I as I need confirmation if I’m getting tiered of falsifying signals or bottle caps.
Nice I see how it works now can’t wait to try it I haven’t even downloaded the new version yet lol that’s tonight when I get home !! Can’t wait 😊
jj diggins awesome, have fun with it, it has come in handy on multiple occasions and sites 👍
Well I tried to download 2.0 and it wasn't responding...
Mike nhgoldprospector how long have you had your machine? Most newer machines already have this update.
Hello.
How would you recommend me to set the equinox 800 detector to a place where there is a lot of iron?
Best regards.
First thing I do is reduce the sensitivity between 18-20 in extremely high iron areas. My preference is zero iron bias, I’ve learned the signals over the years and prefer to make the decision to dig or not.. I also created this tutorial on the iron bias. ruclips.net/video/3P4BhhysfWk/видео.html
@@RelicDirtyhands Thank you.
Best regards.
From what you showed, I don't see much difference. Bottle caps maybe, there was some difference.
Depends on how you use it, from 0-9 there was a difference. I guess it’s up to the user and preference 👍 anxious to try it out at a site.
@@RelicDirtyhands I thought it was to be used in all metal only and in multi freq.
It can only be used in Multi correct and they recommend you use all metal 👍
Is this process, you lose the depth of the search ???
Not depth but the abitily of finding masked targets. The higher you set it, the less falsing iron you will dig but you will also hear less masked good targets. If you are experienced and you're rehunting sites you have been over many times, you will want zero iron bias. If you are a beginer, using higher iron bias will help dig less iron as you learn the tones. Nail tips are hard to isolate, they can squeak high but hard to get a repeatable target ID number. Big iron can be determined by pinpointing, it can tell you large or small, deep or shallow. I hope this helps! Take care Laurie
So do you keep fe and f2 up at the same level ?
It doesn’t matter, the work separately
Good job
Thanks
so what were your findings?
Brian Smith a high F2 is a good option to have if your rushed for time or need to cover large area. I personally prefer FE 0.. I’ve learned the machine well after two years and prefer the natural response..I do find F2 to be a little choppier, making it easier to walk away from a good signals.
so say you have FE at 3 and F2 set to 4 does it combined the two or can you only either run FE or F2 ?
Matt Eastman no they run independently when you use FE, F2 is not running and vice versa 👍
@@RelicDirtyhands how do you switch one off? Leave it at 0?
Stephen Everingham you have a choice using one or the other. If you choose one the other is off. FE Zero is the natural response. It’s not really turning off. Here is a tutorial on Iron Bias ruclips.net/video/3P4BhhysfWk/видео.html
Thanks for the video. I subscribed.
Ive got the perfict slot to try this out at.
J Crowe I’ve been using it and it’s been fun. Personally I love using FE 0 but I’ve ran into situations where running F2 6-9 has been a great option. At a seeded event where speed was a factor., when scoping and trying to locate hot spots.. I could cover a lot more ground.. but when I’m at my own sites and have time, running FE 0 works miracles in high iron and trashy sites.. 👍
Relic Dirtyhands I’m finding that running wide open. I dig a lot of deep iron. I have been using the nox for some time. But far from a master. Maybe the 6” coil will help with the really trashy sites ? I’m not expert but trying to learn as much as I can to gain advantage. Trying to soak up all I can.. would love to be able to use this 800 to its top potential 🙌🏻
J Crowe, that’s why I created the equinox tutorial series Minelab Equinox Tutorial ruclips.net/p/PLpymZHu8sv5nwrk34ID53OxszE8fjuDFC I wanted to be able to run it at it’s full potential as well.. Adjustments to recovery speed and iron bias have its positives and negatives.. max depth, low recovery speed, but you could miss targets close together. High recovery speed, a bit less depth but you capture things closer together.. Iron bias 0 is the natural response, as you raise the iron bias, it reduces the natural response and falsifying on rusty iron or the “halo effect” but running it too high, you may not capture a target in close proximity or being masked by iron and or rust leaching making the soil mineralized around the target. I personally have found myself using 6 recovery speed, with my swing rate it seems to suit me the best. I love zero, I use 50 tones and can often tell if it’s iron falsifying. Big iron can still get me, but if I used my pinpoint mode more often, I would probably dig less of it. You can hear by x’ing over the target if it’s small or big, deep or shallow .. Definitely play around with the settings and find your preference for the type of site you encounter. When I need a mind break or want to cherry pick I throw my bias way up 😊 I did buy a small coil and love using it in really brushy areas it’s great.. but still prefer my standard coil for high trash areas.
So on F2 what would you recommend 3 or 6 or 9etc thanks
It depends on your personal tolerance of digging iron, I Use 0 for hunted out locations, cellar holes etc.. I dig more falsifying iron but it allows me to pick out good targets in heavily masked areas.. if I’m limited to time or really feel like digging less iron I bring it up to 6.. if I’m still digging fox holes for falsifying iron I’ll bring it up too it’s max 9.. all of these adjustments are give and take.. low gives you a natural response and you dig more false signals, the higher you raise it the more it may not see mask targets in close proximity to the iron. 👍
Cool that’s good to know
I'm glad you enjoyed it :)
I was under the impression that FE and F2 work at the same time, and that it's not one or the other. Am I mistaken?
Yes you are mistaken.. they run one at a time and not both. 😊
Thanks for this video, it appears the F2 upgrade is great on bottle caps but dare I say questionable on iron nails. I dug a couple square nails today that popped a bit like your test at F2 9. I love not having to dig bottle caps. I know the manual says it is “best” if used in all metal, but do you know if it still functions in discrimination mode? Thanks for all your wonderful and amazing tutorials and videos! ❤️
Eeeee I should have tried it 👍 curious how it reacts.. I may test it out tomorrow 👍
You’re welcome 😊
MODO GOLD?
I'm sorry?
Interesante, gracias por el vídeo.
You’re welcome 😊
any tips?
Nick. C ha ha, I was hoping people could figure what suits them best, honestly it’s about the user.. if you’re in a rush, a high iron bias may produce more finds than trash... a low one, it takes more time, you will dig more nails, but you’ll leave less behind 👍
@@RelicDirtyhands what do you use
Lol 0, I’ve been detecting my sites for 10 years and managed to find some keepers with this machine , I used to throw it into 40khz for a mind break in high trash.. I may just switch it from low to high now.., but I’ve gotten feedback from some really good detectorist that tried the F2 9 in really tough sites they came home with even more keepers.. ha ha, I may be convinced to increase the iron bias next time
I dont think you can simulate the halo effect? as it takes years to form...
Some consider just the mineralized soil giving a halo effect but so do tips of nails and spikes.. I wonder if there are two different terms.. in this case as you approach a tip it would false from the side of the coil. 🤔
@@RelicDirtyhands I associate iron with halo effect.. Which simply means to me a strong ghost signal caused by iron leaching into the soil after many years.. In some cases just the halo signal remains and the object is long gone through deterioration...
I haven’t dug any iron ghost signals yet. The EQ is great with mineralization.. over the years I’ve heard many different definitions of the halo effect. The better the iron is forged the better the signal. Do you use zero iron bias?
@@RelicDirtyhands Yes I hunt on zero most of the time.. But not always.. My f75 was way worse than the Nox when it comes to dealing with iron halo..
@@RelicDirtyhands You may of dealt with iron halo and not realized it? Have you ever dig a signal that disappeared on you? Sometimes it may be falsing but more often it’s a iron halo effect in play...
Do all the updates you want: It is still a canoe anchor!! LOL LOL
Whahahaha funny, you keep playing with your squeaky toy 😝
It's not even heavy enough to be an anchor 😂
@@RelicDirtyhands I love my Nox 💖
Kaye's Diggin It lol, he uses an xp Deus, it’s just a little lighter, his shovel his heavier than my Equinox 😂
@@RelicDirtyhands silly man 😂😂
👍😙
From Chile.
TRAS LA HUELLA. 😲 from Chile 😊 thank you!
Аз не само за теста давам положителен коментар но и за операторката - върха си...
I wish I could translate this ☺️
F2 9 = FE 5
F2 8 = FE 4
F2 7 = FE 3
F2 6 = FE 2
F2 5 = FE 1
F2 4 = FE 0
F2 3 ~ FE -0.25
F2 2 ~ FE -0.50
F2 1 ~ FE -0.75
F2 0 ~ FE -1.00
How or where did you find these figures? Interesting
u can only have one or the other either fe or f2, if u ran fe on 6 u would lose depth were if u use f2 on 6 or even 9 u lose no depth, so the f2 is a winner all day.
Can you explain how you loose depth with iron bias? I do know recovery speed affects depth but not iron bias. Now if you use iron bias too high, you risk missing stuff because it classifies it more likely to be iron. Using it to low, you may dig more false signals.. this is FE ruclips.net/video/3P4BhhysfWk/видео.html now F2 works similar just an new enhanced version ruclips.net/video/zpCMyvN66qo/видео.html.
U lose depth because u are running through the descrimination circuit if u do a test with the original fe iron bias on 0 and then on say 6 u will notice a difference in depth, we have ran f2 at 9 and tested on a cut quarter at 6” there was no loss of depth on f2
I would have to test it out, I’ve had a few technical friends tell me it doesn’t, the manual also doesn’t mention it, nor any of the specs.. I guess only way is to test it 👍
Give it a go it’s effects depth on small fine objects like silver it also makes deep targets sound scratchy when the old fe iron bias was high.
Ancient Artefacts uk so with FE you would loose depth but F2 you’re not.. thank you so much for this discussion 😊
You lot waiting for an invitation to post another good video?????
hard yakka lol, since mid August I’ve been extremely busy, trying as hard as I can.. just came back from NY and working on that video. We found a lot of great stuff.. I’m hoping to upload it by the end of the day.. I’ve already put in about 8 hours on this one.. another 6 and this video should be done. Keeping figures crossed my system doesn’t crash.. lol
Your targets are too close to each other !
How is it in reality under the ground.. they are not nicely placed apart 😁👍 also rust leached into the soil around iron.. this test was just a visual of what’s happening.. I was able to isolate the target accurately
More confused than ever 😮
Think of it this way, you can only choose one, if you’re struggling with iron use FE, if you’re struggling with other ferrous targets like bottle caps use F2? I say FE on Fields, F2 for parks and beaches.. the higher you set it, the less falsifying on iron or bottle caps. It’s best to use the lowest settings that seem to help.
Totally confused
FE to help with Iron, F2 helps with bottle caps.
Too bad you don't show how bad the Nox is on Canadian clad !!!! The sounds it makes are very annoying I would hate to have to listen to that all day.. Rusty nails, bottlecaps and CLAD a thing of the past. HAHAHAHAHA
Camera home actually it’s not that bad, it’s just most people don’t dig those jumpy nickel tones in multi.. in 40 kHz it loves our clad! All detectors I have used were not great on the new canadian steel core clad.. I’d rather have a machine hitting on the different composition and telling me the truth than not. I love the sound of good targets with this machine..
Absolute waist off time, BECAUSE YOU simply did not mention if you was zeroing out the opposite Fe or F2. We have know way off knowing if your still running say, Fe at 4 when testing f2 as say six etc etc etc.
You can only use one at a time, when I tested I Fe4 I tested against F2 4.. I tested the same setting on both. Let me make this simple for you, FE to deal with iron, F2 to deal with bottle caps, simple enough? This video was a test to see how they reacted. You seem really upset.. the higher FE is set, the easier it is to identify iron, F2 the higher it’s set, the uglier the bottle cap signal will sound. I can help you through your learning curve, I wrote a free digital book to help explain things. I taught many people on how to master their Equinox’s. If you would like a link to a tutorial series, my book, or even one on one tutoring, I do this for free. You can send me an email. Dirtyhands001@gmail.com
You did an excellent job ! I fully understand. 🤠👍
Não entendi nada kkk
Desculpe por isso. O viés de ferro original é ótimo para locais antigos. O novo ajuda com o lixo mais recente, como tampas de garrafa. Eu sempre uso zero. Prefiro tomar a decisão de cavar ou não.
@@RelicDirtyhands gostei da tampinha, mas disse que perde profundidade, é verdade?
Waste of my time
Sorry you feel that way, did you watch any of the tutorials series I created? I explain iron bias in detail, including a tutorial on each setting and functions. ruclips.net/p/PLpymZHu8sv5nwrk34ID53OxszE8fjuDFC