For 90 amps, you should use #4 awg wire. Your heat was from too small of wire. Smaller wire results in bigger voltage drop, so compressor was not seeing the full voltage it needed. I can't tell by looking at the video, but the MaxiTrac cables look to be smaller than #4. #6 wire is okay on short lengths in open air. #4 awg should be used for any extensions. Replacing undersized wire from mfg. will result in cooler running compressor.
@@anesthesiadreamin Thanks for the review. I am looking to pick this compressor up soon. I really liked your quick connect strategies for both air and electric and will probably use them.
@anesthesiadreamin I also made a couple vids related and showing Onboard Air for power tools. I made an expansion tank system and allows use of air tools as well as describe some of the principles to keep in mind while designing/building an air system. Can find them on my channel by searching MrMotofy Onboard Air
Interesting, Not sure I'm sold on "not" adding a pressure switch to this setup... ARB includes a cutoff switch in their setups. I've had no issues for over 4 years now including topping off almost fully inflated tires on the ARB mounted in my 4Runner.. and this compressor I would think is more powerful than my single motor ARB compressor... they also do not have an unloader valve either. By adding a pressure valve, you've pretty much have a cheaper solution to an ARB... but a lot stronger compressor. Time will tell though the durability of these affordable compressors compared to ARB.
Hard wired mine into the tub in the trunk of my Jeep JL with a 1 lb air tank and pressure switch 90/120psi. Using the factory auxiliary switches in the Jeep I wired the compressor through an additional relay due to the large draw from this compressor. So far has worked great. I will take all your additional precautions and run through my compressor to make sure filters and wiring is protected. Thank you for the video!
Good! Sounds like you planned very well for the high amp draw. What gauge wire did you use and how many feet did you have to go? And did you make a video? I'd like to see it if you did
run 2 gauge wire then. you need to have cable that is capable of supporting the additional amperage. It is perfectly safe to hard mount it in the back of the jeep. id recommend wiring up a pressure switch in line as well on the compressor. It will automatically shut off when it reaches whatever pressure you select. I installed mine to shut off at 110psi.
Fantastic video! Just pick one up last week and also found that mine had the exposed wiring coming out of heat shrink under the electronics housing. Glad I was able to get that resolved before any real-world use and potentially running into issues. Also love all your tips and improvements. Well made video! Thank you!
More great information! Thank you for sharing your experiences and accumulated knowledge. I don't know why I didn't think about the need for an unloader valve but I'm glad you mentioned it. I haven't gotten time to play much with my set up but I'm continuing to design it in my head. Great detailed videos like yours keep the system evolving, thanks.
No need for an unloader. That's a big deal with AC induction motors like a home air compressor has, but it makes very little difference to these. There are tons of OE installed pressure switches with these types of compressors, and a version of this same compressor that uses one, and they have no issues.
Great video thanks for taking the time. I love that valve, I may just add that inline of the original hose. I found a small piece of casting siting in the chamber and quite a bit a flashing around the holes that could potentially break off later. I filed off all the cast flashing around the hole on each side with a vacuum sucking out the pieces while doing so. I had a couple strands of wire sticking through the heat shrink but left them because everything was so stiff, there was nothing in the area they could touch. I may try liquid electric tape to cover them as I cannot get in where they are with regular electric tape.
If you use a check valve right out of the compressor and then use a pressure switch the system is only pressurized after the check valve. Meaning that the compressor is not handling that pressure. It will have some pressure but won't be trying to pressurize the cylinder against 90psi of whatever the hose volume is. It's better for the compressor. Mine has this and a blowoff valve before the quick connection.
See the mods that Dirt Lifestyle did. He noticed the battery wires from the Maxi Trac were hot even with the stock battery clamps. The wire power wires are not really big enough to handle 90 amps. He replace them with jump cable wires. No heat.
I saw in another video that the positive leads on their pump had wire strands pocking through the heat shrink ... I just picked up one of these and pulled the cover to find the very same. I would advise this to anyone before using to check these wire leads and re-wrap if necessary. NAPA needs to require the manufacturer to better their QC. I did also purchase their battery box with the intent to replace one of the 50 amp connectors with a SB 175 Anderson and 4 awg leads. I think your heat issue was the connector and 8 awg wiring creating too much resistance.
you can buy anderson plugs rated for higher amps (120a would be ideal) but you also need to make sure the cables are rated to carry sufficient amps for their length. theoretically it doesn't matter how long the cable is providing it's the right size.
Mine came in the mail today. It also had exposed wires in the heat shrink. I posted my 4 way diy on my insta. I also got rid of the non standard connectors.
How has this compressor been going? I have 3 of them now that I either work with or have landed in my lap, 2 of them have been modified, one of them is going through some very extensive mods right now. The biggest issue these have is that they are not a 100% duty cycle, the piston seals will die very quickly if you run them for a long time, the cylinders get extremely hot and the fins you see around each cylinder do a terrible job at dissipating that heat due to them not actually touching the cylinder. I'm looking at a cheap and easy way to add better cylinder cooling. As for pressure switches, what you say makes sense but all of mine are running into small 4L tanks with a 70-90 switch on them, they aren't over taxed or anything like that but they are fairly inefficient at 90psi, this is due to the long stroke and large piston diameter, they're trying to compress too much air at the top of the stroke so as the piston comes down there's still a lot of compressed air in the cylinder that expands and prevents some air being pulled in through the reeds. But that's the point of these compressors, they're designed to be fairly efficient at the 40 psi mark for inflating tyres, not double that.
You need a small tank inline to be able to run air tools. I'm getting ready to buy one of these compressors and already have the tank and I'm going put an unloader valve and a power relay on it to eliminate the control circuit board.
@@cbmech2563 It's only as hard as you make it :-) I started out just shooting one straight clip and uploading directly to youtube, no real editing/music/intro etc, that stuff is not really needed but I do that now just for fun and effect. Just pick a youtube channel name, create a youtube channel (google that, it will lead you step by step), shoot your video on your phone (you may have to try a few times before you get it right, no big deal) then hit upload. It may not be perfect, mine never are, but remember: we all learn from each other, even the mistakes, and if you are interested in doing these mods, it's guaranteed you are not alone, sometimes other people just don't know exactly how to go about it. So take the plunge! I want to see how you make this come together, cuz I wanna do it too. Cheers 🙂
@@cbmech2563 sure thing, if you can't find it at Napa, it's on Amazon, called "All-Top", And several other brands have put their name on the same compressor
For certain light duty and not to harsh environments, heat shrink from habor freight is "ok". There are many types of heat shrink tubing, made for different levels of application/environment(physical stress, flexibility, temperature, dirt, chemical exposure....). The price goes up a few levels as well.
@@anesthesiadreamin I made and tested wire sub-assemblies for wide body, multi-engine, commercial jets and military aircraft...was exposed to a lot. It takes a while to learn and become efficient (fast). From yir first day, to your last: FAA standards and quality are your primary concerns. We built those planes to last 35 years. As far as the brands of heat shrink? You can find(some of)the actual stuff in a Grainger's catalog. Inside of the engine pylons was the roughest environment for the wires. There is a type of heat shrink that goes on certain wire terminations there. You practically have to use a blow torch to get it to soften, flow and shrink. That particular stuff cost over a dollar a inch(1990s). A lot of the aircraft heat shrink tubing was too expensive for household or automobile stuff. But, terrestrial applications can use heavier materials that last longer. Check out Grainger's.
Mine has an adjustable switch. I bought it on Amazon for 12 bucks. Put lowest psi so its easy for compressor and does not kill it evey time you use it.
Napa just launched another 20% off coupon so I bought one. Super excited for it. Glad I didn't impulse buy it last week without the coupon. I wonder if your wire wasn't large enough or that the connector was a huge bottleneck. Directly wiring it should offer a better connection and better, or at least identical, performance to the clamps. If I build a rig I'll likely hard mount one of these and a tank somewhere. I imagine that it'll be fine. Time will tell.
Great! If you make a video please send me a link. I think you are right, the connector was the biggest problem. I would think 8ga wire should be plenty to run to the back of a rig, but I'm not an electronics nerd. I would like to have clamps that have more surface contact area for the battery clamps. And direct wiring like you said, with a heavy duty ring terminal, should be bombproof AND not cause too much resistance. Thanks for your thoughts and for commenting !
Lots of ignorance being shared in this video. Extending the wires is no issue, just use the right size wire. Mine is mounted under the rear seat of my Jeep and I have no problem airing up my 40s. There is no problem running a pressure switch, the startup pressure makes very little difference for a brushed DC motor. The three way valve is a total waste, just shut the compressor off, read the pressure, turn it back on if needed. There's no need to bleed off pressure or install a valve to get an accurate reading.
HI, thanks for making this video and all your insights. I picked up one of these the other day. On the paper pamphlet included with the compressor, under the section "Operating Instructions" it states that this compressor has a built in compressor switch and that it will shut itself off. In the steps 7-9 on inflating tires is states to allow the pressure to build in the lines and by depressing the trigger will turn on the compressor again using its pressure switch. Have you tested this or is this true or are the instructions misleading? With these pressure switches being added by users are we just doubling up on something that's already built in?
What? Operating instructions. I'm a guy, I don't read those! But seriously, after I read your post, I went out to the box, saw the paper in the bottom of the box that was glued to the Styrofoam, ripped it out, and had no idea they were instructions on the back. So I read those, and you are exactly right, that's exactly what it says. Thank you for your admonition. I have yet to push my compressor to the pressure cut off point, and have yet to turn it on and then connect it like the directions say. That makes me nervous! But I have to say I'm a little irritated at maxi trac for gluing the instructions to the styrofoam. Of course I read the Backpage, which talks about the thermal switch cut off. Yes, I'm embarrassed, I guess I just took everyone else's opinions on RUclips that it did not have a pressure switch, so again thank you for pointing that out. I'll have to include that in a future video and eat crow 👍
@@anesthesiadreamin I am with you too, I just began to follow the masses with adding the pressure switch but then I saw other RUclips videos with the Kings Thumper and the Desert Armor versions of the MaxiTrac compressor and those had pressure switches built in. Then reading the instructions I was like wait…does this have one too!?! I have not tested this yet either as it makes me nervous. Especially when there are so many copy versions that might differ slightly in features but reuse scripted instructions that may be misleading. All I’m saying is tread lightly and don’t just trust it because I too have my hesitation in trusting this compressor will cut off on its own and I’m not sure how to test it safely. Be careful and no need to eat crow, just tread lightly! Hopefully we can figure it out together.
Has anyone figured out if the built in compressor switch actually works? See Bryce Weatherford's comment. I ordered this Maxi trac yesterday. Thank you so much for the informative video!
Yes, I'm glad he commented on that, because I never read the directions, I just kind of assumed that The RUclips videos were all correct. But I haven't tried it on mine yet. I'm just too nervous LOL
Great video! I just picked one of these up and was literally blown away by how fast it airs up my tires! I do have a concern though. I did the quick connect mod and the hose that comes out of the compressor gets really hot, even after just airing up one 37” tire (which takes it like a minute and a half). Is this something I should be concerned about? I’m assuming it’s from all the compressed air building up before the quick connect. When I disconnect my aftermarket hose from the quick disconnect, it has a lot of pressure in it. Just like when I disconnect it from my in-garage compressor if I do not empty the tank. Any thoughts? Have you observed this?
Good point, when I put the quick connect on I did not think to check pre and post (quick connect) temperatures of the cylinders/pigtail hose... I suppose it *could* be hotter at the pigtail hose if the new quick connect is more restrictive than the factory one... but honestly if your 37's are filling faster than mine, that's probably not it. I was happy to see a pigtail hose on this compressor, because other compressors I have had get super hot where the main hose connects directly to the nipple on the cylinder (like SUPER hot). Next time I four wheel I should take the laser thermometer and record temps just for a baseline for all of us to compare. So check your cylinder and hose temps sometime, and we will compare. Sounds like a good add on video :-) But no, at this point I wouldn't worry too much. If there was a lot of restriction from your quick connect causing more heat build up, then I don't think your tires wouldn't inflate as fast (or faster!) than mine. Thanks for watching and for your good observations!
@@anesthesiadreamin Thank you for the response! I just did a field test with all four tires yesterday and I found that if I plug the chuck onto the valve stems first, then turn the compressor on, the pig tail hose doesn’t get as hot. I guess turning the compressor on before putting the chuck on the valve stem was causing a lot of pressure to build up. Either way, absolutely love this compressor! Best bang for the buck I’ve ever spent!
@@MotoringAdventures_KE7SAI okay! That's good to hear. Sounds like we can worry about that less now 😁 But I still want to take a baseline of temps, that way I have it for my future reference and for others as well. Thanks for the good idea! 👍
I have a hunch, to prevent the dead head, could you just stick a one way check valve on the line out before the pressure switch, that way any residual pressure can bleed out while the compressor is off?
That won't work because the air will have nowhere to go so the check valve will do nothing, unless it leaks back though the compressor's intake valves, but it doesn't really matter with this type of motor so just ignore it
I mounted mine under my front passenger seat the power wire will reach positjve on battery but wont reach negative terminal have to ground to nearest nut coming through the fire wall . Relocated bottom base on the side to lay it down under seat.
Hi. It makes sense to increase the 1/4 outlet on this compressor. If you unscrew the hose from the compressor, you will see that there is a serious constriction, which limits the compressor's capabilities.
Thank you, that is just the information I'm looking for! I'm also going to drill out the caps, the plastic caps on top of the intake, because that's a serious restriction as well. It will require a bit different air filter, but is worth doing
@@anesthesiadreamin Yeah, I saw that remodel on the Dirt Lifestyle channel. I was wondering, is it really faster to pump 4 wheels at a time than one at a time, but without a spooler? In our area, no one pumps the wheels at once, all who have wheels from 35 inches and above pump without a spool, but with a 20-liter receiver. This is faster than until you get all these hoses out of the trunk, put them in the car. What do you think of that?
Does the ARB, and other 12v compressors that are commonly hard mounted and used for air lockers and whatnot, have an unloader valve though? I understand the worry of starting it under pressure in thinking that it'll cause more wear and tear on the motor, but if it isn't a sealed motor, the brushes (which is what would suffer from this) should be replaceable.
I have never owned an ARB, but I have a ViAir, and it has a pressure switch. My buddies old ARB has a pressure switch, I would assume all the ARB's are built that way, but IDK for sure. You bring up a good point, I never thought of what would fail when a compressor is starting up against high pressure. Please let us know if you have any problems with yours, and if so, were you able to fix it and how. I appreciate your comments and ideas!
@@anesthesiadreamin thumper max! mine has a few issues, not sure what is wrong yet, have changed the pressure switch but it is a wiring thing some where, may cut all the wiring off and just use a 200a relay
Could you not have added a 90amp + Anderson plug on this to make it work with out the clips. This is what I am thinking of doing. That way do not have to open the hood to air up. And another question....on your existing remote plug for the existing compressor, did you put an in line fuse on the cable to protect the battery from the exposed 12v power sent to the terminal end of your plug at your grill. If so was it a 45amp or greater fuse connector
No, I did not add a fuse, but should. And a 90A connector should work, if you do it, please let me know what you use. Thanks for the reminder on the fuse!
Winch connectors would work. Always excess with low voltage wiring (12v etc) minimum 2ga wiring for remote mounting. (I'm gonna run 1/0 real copper welding/car stereo cable. NOT CCA wire. Then I can tie in for a winch etc. Then 125A + connectors like for a winch etc
@@anesthesiadreamin I ran 2 awg inverter wires from the battery terminals to an Anderson plug mounted on the bumper. The plug was rated at 120 amps and is water proof, on the positive wire I put a 100 amp waterproof breaker in line, to protect the electrical system on the jeep. I have used it a few times with no heating of the wires that I used. The only wires getting warm are the ones that came with the air compressor. So its working great with out having to lift the hood to plug the maxi trac compressor on to the battery terminals.
@@anesthesiadreamin my pleasure, it was your ideas that made it come to great use. I had a plan just not the concept. And the Maxi trac compressor was the initial catalyst, the not raising the hood was a great idea....slightly lazy in that way as I have a lock on the hood plus the side clasps....to much work to lift every time THANKS
Why wouldnt add the pressure switch for added protection and if you believe it could cause issues treat it like there wasnt one with the benefit of their being one.
Great question! I watched a video of a guy that added a pressure switch and the compressor soon failed thereafter. He wasn't sure if it was the pressure switch that caused the failure or not, but suspected it. I think others have added them and been fine though.
Yes, I do think that would be safe. I think the way I did it with the lighter wire was a bad idea. I'm thinking of running something like 4 gauge to the back of my Jeep and hard mounting this compressor. Only because it's so flipping heavy to move around all the time in the back of the Jeep to get to something else LOL
@@anesthesiadreamin thanks for the reply. I’m thinking of hard mounting mine in the rear off a 4 gauge power bank, and just permanently plumbing air line to each tire with a small coil of line I can attach to each tire before kicking on the compressor. A bit of initial plumbing work, but doable and saves carrying, wrapping or laying out a bunch of hose each time.
@@ThisTall Yes! I've seen that once before. Often wondered if it was worthwhile, but the way you describe it, it sounds like it would be for sure. If you make a video, please let me know... Thx for watching and for your comments:-)
@@anesthesiadreamin I will for sure! I seen it done exactly that way years ago and can’t find the video now. But it was all done with the kind of shiny black pneumatic line and press in fittings this guy uses in this video link. ruclips.net/video/ggRZyEawg4o/видео.html It was in a Jeep XJ with the compressor mounted in the back hatch connected with a quick coupler like yours here. Everything was run tight up in the frame with the front couplers right under the battery area and the rears right up behind the mud flaps. All 4 were within 1ft of the tire, and each had just enough yellow 4” coiled airline (held with a small Velcro strap) to reach the valve stem. It was pretty clean and impressive. It was close and simple enough that he could grab it with 1 hand without looking in the 5 seconds it took him to take the valve stem cap off with the other hand. I can’t remember what kind of compressor he was using but it wasn’t the ARB. And he had the on/off switch as well as a main pressure gauge mounted to his centre column. It looked so clean and simple I’m surprised it’s not done more, but setting up a whole web of lines each time seemed much harder. Can only imagine how well that might work with 1 or 2 of these Maxi Tac compressors. Anyway, thanks for the video.
I just popped the top to the filters and noticed one side has a clear gel like substance in it. Anyone know what that is or if I should clean it out before my first run of the compressor?
![Cleanest Pressure Switch Mod [Maxi Trac Compressor Review]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lG2e1HLo4ZA/mqdefault.jpg)
![Cleanest Pressure Switch Mod [Maxi Trac Compressor Review]](/img/tr.png)
For 90 amps, you should use #4 awg wire. Your heat was from too small of wire. Smaller wire results in bigger voltage drop, so compressor was not seeing the full voltage it needed. I can't tell by looking at the video, but the MaxiTrac cables look to be smaller than #4. #6 wire is okay on short lengths in open air. #4 awg should be used for any extensions. Replacing undersized wire from mfg. will result in cooler running compressor.
Thank you, you confirmed what I was thinking. I measured the Maxi Trac wire at 8 gauge. Thanks for watching and for the good advice 👍
@@anesthesiadreamin Thanks for the review. I am looking to pick this compressor up soon. I really liked your quick connect strategies for both air and electric and will probably use them.
@@dpalms24 if u make a video, please send me the link, i would like to see what parts you use. Thanks
@anesthesiadreamin I also made a couple vids related and showing Onboard Air for power tools. I made an expansion tank system and allows use of air tools as well as describe some of the principles to keep in mind while designing/building an air system. Can find them on my channel by searching MrMotofy Onboard Air
Just measured mines. Pulled 121a startup and 86.4 amps running. Should hold vehicle rpm above 1200.. be good. H.o alt recommended
Interesting, Not sure I'm sold on "not" adding a pressure switch to this setup... ARB includes a cutoff switch in their setups. I've had no issues for over 4 years now including topping off almost fully inflated tires on the ARB mounted in my 4Runner.. and this compressor I would think is more powerful than my single motor ARB compressor... they also do not have an unloader valve either. By adding a pressure valve, you've pretty much have a cheaper solution to an ARB... but a lot stronger compressor. Time will tell though the durability of these affordable compressors compared to ARB.
Hard wired mine into the tub in the trunk of my Jeep JL with a 1 lb air tank and pressure switch 90/120psi. Using the factory auxiliary switches in the Jeep I wired the compressor through an additional relay due to the large draw from this compressor. So far has worked great. I will take all your additional precautions and run through my compressor to make sure filters and wiring is protected. Thank you for the video!
Good! Sounds like you planned very well for the high amp draw. What gauge wire did you use and how many feet did you have to go? And did you make a video? I'd like to see it if you did
@@anesthesiadreamin I did not make a video of the install. I ran 8 gauge wire from the battery tray to the tub along the frame approximately 13’
@@anesthesiadreamin
Just ordered one from napa can't wait to upgrade it.
run 2 gauge wire then. you need to have cable that is capable of supporting the additional amperage. It is perfectly safe to hard mount it in the back of the jeep.
id recommend wiring up a pressure switch in line as well on the compressor. It will automatically shut off when it reaches whatever pressure you select. I installed mine to shut off at 110psi.
Agreed. To add, you can also use 175A anderson connectors as well.
Fantastic video! Just pick one up last week and also found that mine had the exposed wiring coming out of heat shrink under the electronics housing. Glad I was able to get that resolved before any real-world use and potentially running into issues. Also love all your tips and improvements. Well made video! Thank you!
Where did you find yours at? I can't find any around the central NC area
Thanks for the video. I just bought this compressor and love it. I will definitely add the quick connect.
What a funny video. So many issues that I couldn't look away 😂😂
More great information! Thank you for sharing your experiences and accumulated knowledge. I don't know why I didn't think about the need for an unloader valve but I'm glad you mentioned it. I haven't gotten time to play much with my set up but I'm continuing to design it in my head. Great detailed videos like yours keep the system evolving, thanks.
No need for an unloader. That's a big deal with AC induction motors like a home air compressor has, but it makes very little difference to these. There are tons of OE installed pressure switches with these types of compressors, and a version of this same compressor that uses one, and they have no issues.
Great video thanks for taking the time. I love that valve, I may just add that inline of the original hose.
I found a small piece of casting siting in the chamber and quite a bit a flashing around the holes that could potentially break off later. I filed off all the cast flashing around the hole on each side with a vacuum sucking out the pieces while doing so.
I had a couple strands of wire sticking through the heat shrink but left them because everything was so stiff, there was nothing in the area they could touch. I may try liquid electric tape to cover them as I cannot get in where they are with regular electric tape.
Great ideas! And liquid electrical tape is probably what I should have done, like two or three layers. Hey, thanks for watching and for commenting 👍
If you use a check valve right out of the compressor and then use a pressure switch the system is only pressurized after the check valve. Meaning that the compressor is not handling that pressure. It will have some pressure but won't be trying to pressurize the cylinder against 90psi of whatever the hose volume is. It's better for the compressor. Mine has this and a blowoff valve before the quick connection.
what check valve did you use?
See the mods that Dirt Lifestyle did. He noticed the battery wires from the Maxi Trac were hot even with the stock battery clamps. The wire power wires are not really big enough to handle 90 amps. He replace them with jump cable wires. No heat.
I saw in another video that the positive leads on their pump had wire strands pocking through the heat shrink ... I just picked up one of these and pulled the cover to find the very same. I would advise this to anyone before using to check these wire leads and re-wrap if necessary. NAPA needs to require the manufacturer to better their QC. I did also purchase their battery box with the intent to replace one of the 50 amp connectors with a SB 175 Anderson and 4 awg leads. I think your heat issue was the connector and 8 awg wiring creating too much resistance.
yea had to rewrap mine as well
Trim off the wires that are poking out and coat it good with liquid tape... works great!
Thanks! Now I might have to go redo it LOL
you can buy anderson plugs rated for higher amps (120a would be ideal) but you also need to make sure the cables are rated to carry sufficient amps for their length. theoretically it doesn't matter how long the cable is providing it's the right size.
Lots of good pointers in this video, thank you!
Mine came in the mail today. It also had exposed wires in the heat shrink. I posted my 4 way diy on my insta. I also got rid of the non standard connectors.
Cool vid...lots of great info!
How has this compressor been going? I have 3 of them now that I either work with or have landed in my lap, 2 of them have been modified, one of them is going through some very extensive mods right now. The biggest issue these have is that they are not a 100% duty cycle, the piston seals will die very quickly if you run them for a long time, the cylinders get extremely hot and the fins you see around each cylinder do a terrible job at dissipating that heat due to them not actually touching the cylinder. I'm looking at a cheap and easy way to add better cylinder cooling.
As for pressure switches, what you say makes sense but all of mine are running into small 4L tanks with a 70-90 switch on them, they aren't over taxed or anything like that but they are fairly inefficient at 90psi, this is due to the long stroke and large piston diameter, they're trying to compress too much air at the top of the stroke so as the piston comes down there's still a lot of compressed air in the cylinder that expands and prevents some air being pulled in through the reeds. But that's the point of these compressors, they're designed to be fairly efficient at the 40 psi mark for inflating tyres, not double that.
Great video!
You need a small tank inline to be able to run air tools. I'm getting ready to buy one of these compressors and already have the tank and I'm going put an unloader valve and a power relay on it to eliminate the control circuit board.
That's exactly what I want to do! If you make a video, please let me know 👍
@@anesthesiadreamin I'd have to figure out how to make and load a video
@@cbmech2563 It's only as hard as you make it :-) I started out just shooting one straight clip and uploading directly to youtube, no real editing/music/intro etc, that stuff is not really needed but I do that now just for fun and effect. Just pick a youtube channel name, create a youtube channel (google that, it will lead you step by step), shoot your video on your phone (you may have to try a few times before you get it right, no big deal) then hit upload. It may not be perfect, mine never are, but remember: we all learn from each other, even the mistakes, and if you are interested in doing these mods, it's guaranteed you are not alone, sometimes other people just don't know exactly how to go about it. So take the plunge! I want to see how you make this come together, cuz I wanna do it too. Cheers 🙂
@@anesthesiadreamin thanks for the information....and the encouragement, I'll talk to my friend that owns a Napa store in the morning
@@cbmech2563 sure thing, if you can't find it at Napa, it's on Amazon, called "All-Top", And several other brands have put their name on the same compressor
For certain light duty and not to harsh environments, heat shrink from habor freight is "ok". There are many types of heat shrink tubing, made for different levels of application/environment(physical stress, flexibility, temperature, dirt, chemical exposure....). The price goes up a few levels as well.
I didn't know that! Do you have a brand of heat shrink that you like to use in particular?
@@anesthesiadreamin I made and tested wire sub-assemblies for wide body, multi-engine, commercial jets and military aircraft...was exposed to a lot. It takes a while to learn and become efficient (fast). From yir first day, to your last: FAA standards and quality are your primary concerns. We built those planes to last 35 years. As far as the brands of heat shrink? You can find(some of)the actual stuff in a Grainger's catalog. Inside of the engine pylons was the roughest environment for the wires. There is a type of heat shrink that goes on certain wire terminations there. You practically have to use a blow torch to get it to soften, flow and shrink. That particular stuff cost over a dollar a inch(1990s). A lot of the aircraft heat shrink tubing was too expensive for household or automobile stuff. But, terrestrial applications can use heavier materials that last longer. Check out Grainger's.
I just bought mine thank you for the info!
Mine has an adjustable switch. I bought it on Amazon for 12 bucks. Put lowest psi so its easy for compressor and does not kill it evey time you use it.
do you mean an adjustable pressure switch? can you post the link for the rest of us? thanks!
Napa just launched another 20% off coupon so I bought one. Super excited for it. Glad I didn't impulse buy it last week without the coupon.
I wonder if your wire wasn't large enough or that the connector was a huge bottleneck. Directly wiring it should offer a better connection and better, or at least identical, performance to the clamps. If I build a rig I'll likely hard mount one of these and a tank somewhere. I imagine that it'll be fine. Time will tell.
Great! If you make a video please send me a link. I think you are right, the connector was the biggest problem. I would think 8ga wire should be plenty to run to the back of a rig, but I'm not an electronics nerd. I would like to have clamps that have more surface contact area for the battery clamps. And direct wiring like you said, with a heavy duty ring terminal, should be bombproof AND not cause too much resistance. Thanks for your thoughts and for commenting !
Lots of ignorance being shared in this video. Extending the wires is no issue, just use the right size wire. Mine is mounted under the rear seat of my Jeep and I have no problem airing up my 40s. There is no problem running a pressure switch, the startup pressure makes very little difference for a brushed DC motor. The three way valve is a total waste, just shut the compressor off, read the pressure, turn it back on if needed. There's no need to bleed off pressure or install a valve to get an accurate reading.
HI, thanks for making this video and all your insights. I picked up one of these the other day. On the paper pamphlet included with the compressor, under the section "Operating Instructions" it states that this compressor has a built in compressor switch and that it will shut itself off. In the steps 7-9 on inflating tires is states to allow the pressure to build in the lines and by depressing the trigger will turn on the compressor again using its pressure switch. Have you tested this or is this true or are the instructions misleading? With these pressure switches being added by users are we just doubling up on something that's already built in?
What? Operating instructions. I'm a guy, I don't read those! But seriously, after I read your post, I went out to the box, saw the paper in the bottom of the box that was glued to the Styrofoam, ripped it out, and had no idea they were instructions on the back. So I read those, and you are exactly right, that's exactly what it says. Thank you for your admonition. I have yet to push my compressor to the pressure cut off point, and have yet to turn it on and then connect it like the directions say. That makes me nervous! But I have to say I'm a little irritated at maxi trac for gluing the instructions to the styrofoam. Of course I read the Backpage, which talks about the thermal switch cut off. Yes, I'm embarrassed, I guess I just took everyone else's opinions on RUclips that it did not have a pressure switch, so again thank you for pointing that out. I'll have to include that in a future video and eat crow 👍
@@anesthesiadreamin I am with you too, I just began to follow the masses with adding the pressure switch but then I saw other RUclips videos with the Kings Thumper and the Desert Armor versions of the MaxiTrac compressor and those had pressure switches built in. Then reading the instructions I was like wait…does this have one too!?! I have not tested this yet either as it makes me nervous. Especially when there are so many copy versions that might differ slightly in features but reuse scripted instructions that may be misleading. All I’m saying is tread lightly and don’t just trust it because I too have my hesitation in trusting this compressor will cut off on its own and I’m not sure how to test it safely. Be careful and no need to eat crow, just tread lightly! Hopefully we can figure it out together.
Has anyone figured out if the built in compressor switch actually works? See Bryce Weatherford's comment. I ordered this Maxi trac yesterday. Thank you so much for the informative video!
Yes, I'm glad he commented on that, because I never read the directions, I just kind of assumed that The RUclips videos were all correct. But I haven't tried it on mine yet. I'm just too nervous LOL
The fact that it doesn't come with warranty makes it a win it all or lose it all gamble lol. I would be nervous too!
Your video is the 2nd one I've seen with wires sticking out from the same compressor. Sounds like they need to have a recall on them.
Total head slap moment here lol
Can’t believe I never thought of using heat shrink over those crimp connectors.
All the other rebrands of this compressor are over $200! Holy cow! Mine from Napa was $98 after tax.
Many of those have a pressure switch and I've heard they have some other improvements.
Great video! I just picked one of these up and was literally blown away by how fast it airs up my tires! I do have a concern though. I did the quick connect mod and the hose that comes out of the compressor gets really hot, even after just airing up one 37” tire (which takes it like a minute and a half). Is this something I should be concerned about? I’m assuming it’s from all the compressed air building up before the quick connect. When I disconnect my aftermarket hose from the quick disconnect, it has a lot of pressure in it. Just like when I disconnect it from my in-garage compressor if I do not empty the tank. Any thoughts? Have you observed this?
Good point, when I put the quick connect on I did not think to check pre and post (quick connect) temperatures of the cylinders/pigtail hose... I suppose it *could* be hotter at the pigtail hose if the new quick connect is more restrictive than the factory one... but honestly if your 37's are filling faster than mine, that's probably not it. I was happy to see a pigtail hose on this compressor, because other compressors I have had get super hot where the main hose connects directly to the nipple on the cylinder (like SUPER hot). Next time I four wheel I should take the laser thermometer and record temps just for a baseline for all of us to compare. So check your cylinder and hose temps sometime, and we will compare. Sounds like a good add on video :-) But no, at this point I wouldn't worry too much. If there was a lot of restriction from your quick connect causing more heat build up, then I don't think your tires wouldn't inflate as fast (or faster!) than mine. Thanks for watching and for your good observations!
@@anesthesiadreamin Thank you for the response! I just did a field test with all four tires yesterday and I found that if I plug the chuck onto the valve stems first, then turn the compressor on, the pig tail hose doesn’t get as hot. I guess turning the compressor on before putting the chuck on the valve stem was causing a lot of pressure to build up. Either way, absolutely love this compressor! Best bang for the buck I’ve ever spent!
@@MotoringAdventures_KE7SAI okay! That's good to hear. Sounds like we can worry about that less now 😁 But I still want to take a baseline of temps, that way I have it for my future reference and for others as well. Thanks for the good idea! 👍
I have a hunch, to prevent the dead head, could you just stick a one way check valve on the line out before the pressure switch, that way any residual pressure can bleed out while the compressor is off?
That won't work because the air will have nowhere to go so the check valve will do nothing, unless it leaks back though the compressor's intake valves, but it doesn't really matter with this type of motor so just ignore it
I mounted mine under my front passenger seat the power wire will reach positjve on battery but wont reach negative terminal have to ground to nearest nut coming through the fire wall . Relocated bottom base on the side to lay it down under seat.
Hi. It makes sense to increase the 1/4 outlet on this compressor. If you unscrew the hose from the compressor, you will see that there is a serious constriction, which limits the compressor's capabilities.
Thank you, that is just the information I'm looking for! I'm also going to drill out the caps, the plastic caps on top of the intake, because that's a serious restriction as well. It will require a bit different air filter, but is worth doing
@@anesthesiadreamin Yeah, I saw that remodel on the Dirt Lifestyle channel. I was wondering, is it really faster to pump 4 wheels at a time than one at a time, but without a spooler? In our area, no one pumps the wheels at once, all who have wheels from 35 inches and above pump without a spool, but with a 20-liter receiver. This is faster than until you get all these hoses out of the trunk, put them in the car. What do you think of that?
If you did add a pressure switch, where would you put an unloader valve? And what would be a good choice for one?
Hey, read the above comment by bryce weatherford. Turns out it is probably not needed
It's a cinch clamp. Originally called an Oetiker ring.
Does the ARB, and other 12v compressors that are commonly hard mounted and used for air lockers and whatnot, have an unloader valve though? I understand the worry of starting it under pressure in thinking that it'll cause more wear and tear on the motor, but if it isn't a sealed motor, the brushes (which is what would suffer from this) should be replaceable.
I have never owned an ARB, but I have a ViAir, and it has a pressure switch. My buddies old ARB has a pressure switch, I would assume all the ARB's are built that way, but IDK for sure. You bring up a good point, I never thought of what would fail when a compressor is starting up against high pressure. Please let us know if you have any problems with yours, and if so, were you able to fix it and how. I appreciate your comments and ideas!
great video thanks, the aussie version of this compressor comes with a pressure switch.
Yes, a few companies have sold it in the US, in different colors under different names. What is the name in Australia?
@@anesthesiadreamin thumper max! mine has a few issues, not sure what is wrong yet, have changed the pressure switch but it is a wiring thing some where, may cut all the wiring off and just use a 200a relay
You would need to install a tank to effectively run tools.
Could you not have added a 90amp + Anderson plug on this to make it work with out the clips. This is what I am thinking of doing. That way do not have to open the hood to air up. And another question....on your existing remote plug for the existing compressor, did you put an in line fuse on the cable to protect the battery from the exposed 12v power sent to the terminal end of your plug at your grill. If so was it a 45amp or greater fuse connector
No, I did not add a fuse, but should. And a 90A connector should work, if you do it, please let me know what you use. Thanks for the reminder on the fuse!
Winch connectors would work. Always excess with low voltage wiring (12v etc) minimum 2ga wiring for remote mounting. (I'm gonna run 1/0 real copper welding/car stereo cable. NOT CCA wire. Then I can tie in for a winch etc. Then 125A + connectors like for a winch etc
@@anesthesiadreamin I ran 2 awg inverter wires from the battery terminals to an Anderson plug mounted on the bumper. The plug was rated at 120 amps and is water proof, on the positive wire I put a 100 amp waterproof breaker in line, to protect the electrical system on the jeep. I have used it a few times with no heating of the wires that I used. The only wires getting warm are the ones that came with the air compressor. So its working great with out having to lift the hood to plug the maxi trac compressor on to the battery terminals.
@@twoallame okay, that's just what I'm looking for, a success story and the exact components you used. Thanks for watching and for your feedback!
@@anesthesiadreamin my pleasure, it was your ideas that made it come to great use. I had a plan just not the concept. And the Maxi trac compressor was the initial catalyst, the not raising the hood was a great idea....slightly lazy in that way as I have a lock on the hood plus the side clasps....to much work to lift every time THANKS
Why wouldnt add the pressure switch for added protection and if you believe it could cause issues treat it like there wasnt one with the benefit of their being one.
Great question! I watched a video of a guy that added a pressure switch and the compressor soon failed thereafter. He wasn't sure if it was the pressure switch that caused the failure or not, but suspected it. I think others have added them and been fine though.
You don’t think it would be safe to rear vehicle mount it if you run 4 gauge wire to the rear?
Yes, I do think that would be safe. I think the way I did it with the lighter wire was a bad idea. I'm thinking of running something like 4 gauge to the back of my Jeep and hard mounting this compressor. Only because it's so flipping heavy to move around all the time in the back of the Jeep to get to something else LOL
@@anesthesiadreamin thanks for the reply. I’m thinking of hard mounting mine in the rear off a 4 gauge power bank, and just permanently plumbing air line to each tire with a small coil of line I can attach to each tire before kicking on the compressor. A bit of initial plumbing work, but doable and saves carrying, wrapping or laying out a bunch of hose each time.
@@ThisTall Yes! I've seen that once before. Often wondered if it was worthwhile, but the way you describe it, it sounds like it would be for sure. If you make a video, please let me know... Thx for watching and for your comments:-)
@@anesthesiadreamin I will for sure!
I seen it done exactly that way years ago and can’t find the video now.
But it was all done with the kind of shiny black pneumatic line and press in fittings this guy uses in this video link.
ruclips.net/video/ggRZyEawg4o/видео.html
It was in a Jeep XJ with the compressor mounted in the back hatch connected with a quick coupler like yours here.
Everything was run tight up in the frame with the front couplers right under the battery area and the rears right up behind the mud flaps. All 4 were within 1ft of the tire, and each had just enough yellow 4” coiled airline (held with a small Velcro strap) to reach the valve stem.
It was pretty clean and impressive. It was close and simple enough that he could grab it with 1 hand without looking in the 5 seconds it took him to take the valve stem cap off with the other hand.
I can’t remember what kind of compressor he was using but it wasn’t the ARB. And he had the on/off switch as well as a main pressure gauge mounted to his centre column.
It looked so clean and simple I’m surprised it’s not done more, but setting up a whole web of lines each time seemed much harder.
Can only imagine how well that might work with 1 or 2 of these Maxi Tac compressors.
Anyway, thanks for the video.
I just popped the top to the filters and noticed one side has a clear gel like substance in it. Anyone know what that is or if I should clean it out before my first run of the compressor?
Maybe it's excess cylinder lubricant? IDK. I think I would wipe it out. Mine was dry inside
Add a portable tank.
Is the small Red wire going into the motor a thermal overload?
It goes to the switch on the outside of the case, it comes from inside the motor case where it is hooked to a thermal switch
You don't really know what your doing. Nothing wrong with long wires if they're sized for the load.
You are correct, lesson learned, I ran 8ga to the back of the Jeep for the compressor and it works like a dream