"apparently the kids are out of school" that got me. However the Schrader valve limitation is something I had not considered for quick tire inflation... Thank you sir.
Maybe we should start selling Adventure Kings in the USA! You guys are missing out without that pressure switch - great job adding it yourself though, cool vid! Cheers, Cahn
The kings awning and thumper max compressors have sold very well under the maxi-tracs (Napa) brand here. You guys had both of those products for years before us and Napa cant keep them in stock. I'm not sure our market would use swags but the rest of your camping gear would do well. AliExpress may be on the cusp of knocking out all the middle man import stuff though so I'd say its time sensitive.
Great video. Something I have learned from others with this compressor along with my own is that you need to check the power wire coming into the main board. There has been wire poking through the heatshrink and that can lead to a short and fry everything.
@@daboss9889I trimmed the wires that were poking out on mine very carefully then put new heat shrink over the old heat shrink, then put a ton of electrical tape over that.
Good video as always. Since I am a little suspect on the durability I will probably just do the external switch for now. I had the power relay/switch go out on mine already. I like the Chinese "nitto" couplers I switched over my four-way system to that over the industrial. See how that works out.
I popped mine open before even firing it up the first time. Re-did some of the heatshrink, and rebuilt the power switch connectors. Good enough at the price so far.
Nice idea.i didn't think about adding it inside the plastic housing. I added a pressure switch to mine with a nipple and a T,as well as a remote on/off switch for when it's mounted in my blazer I can turn it on and off with my S Pod.
To answer your question this is exactly how the kings pressure switch is done, the first thing I did when I got my maxi trac was to fit the heads, manifold and pressure switch off my black kings unit (which died on the 3rd tyre the first time I used it). I haven't used the maxi yet, but my 16 year old Projecta Typhoon failed last weekend so next trip the maxi will get a run.
My CO2 tanks respectfully disagrees with your 2 cfm statement. If you think about it, all compressors above 2 cfm would have the same performance if it were true. There are also varying figures online claiming 2.6, 4.5 and 9.3 CFM. Reality is CFM is a measure of volume over time, not pressure. Things like air temperature and pressure greatly change the amount of volume a fitting can flow. That being said, alleviating pressure on a compressor like this will actually allow it to pump more volume since its CFM rating drops with pressure, which is why a 4 way inflation setup gives much faster inflation times. Thanks for the video man, keep it up
I agree on that point. Most on the market compressors are only capable of providing 100ish pounds of pressure. 100% agree your co2 is far more capable than 2cfm. Hit up morrflate and see what they tested at since that is where I got that figure.
It’s actually a 5.5 limit. That’s why most pumps are 5.5. A 11cfm you will hit the limit and get massive back pressure so you’ll need to do two tires at once.
@@BadlandIndustries agreed. It airs up tires so fast that by the time my TPMS on the dash says I'm at 32 PSI, and I turn off the compressor it's at 37 PSI. I think the mods you explained will make this compressor awesome.
I used the other end of the quick disconnect on the pump, so the pump can not over pressure, because it's always open. Plus when I'm airing down, I just connect the air hoses to the tires and push the center of the closed end of the quick disconnect with a stick or my key to the desired air pressure while I'm checking the psi. Once I reach the psi I want, the air stops by releasing the valve, and I just disconnect the hose valves from the tires. At the end I release the pressure from the hose before I put it away. 😎👍
What I think would help your inflation time significantly is upgrading the line from that 1/8 ID airline and fittings to 1/4 or 3/8ths. Additionally moving to a Milton V coupler type instead of the Typical I/M Industrial quick connects will help airflow considerably. I've switched all my stuff over to Milton V when airflow is a consideration. It really helps with Impacts but inflation goes a good bit quicker provided the inflator has the capacity to handle it. (and I have the same Milton air chuck, it does benefit from more airflow - haven't measured it and probably should)
@@BadlandIndustries my hypothesis is you'll see a definite difference from 0-15 psi. Once you get to the higher PSIs, high volume compressors start to struggle a bit more and the gains will be negligible. But regardless, it will really help on the trail with rebeading (that's where I noticed it helping).
I dont think a Milton V would matter on this compressor necessarily. My 120V 6 gallon pancake compressor puts out about 50% more flow than this thing does and its not restricted by a standard 1/4" fitting. If I fill my tires with my 4 tire inflator, the pressure at the compressor is the same as whats in the tires. However, what I found is that when I am airing down with my 4 tire inflator, the standard 1/4" male fitting restricts air coming out. My only worry running Milton V's on my inflator and compressor is that if I ever needed to use someone elses compressor it might cause issues.
@@Jay-me7gw The idea is to reduce any resistance as much as possible. Technically, yes - most compressors under 12 CFM of output, won't see the difference. Where you'll really notice it, is if you have a tank. The output to the tool should be able to suit the air demands of the tool. So for an impact, you'll want to make sure it sees as much CFM as possible, because the air tank will be able to provide the high amounts of CFM in short bursts (depending on how big the tank is), you should use a high flow fitting and large diameter hose. Technically the I/M standard "industrial" connectors are good up to 40CFM but my impacts definitely do perform better with a V coupler - it's a difference you can both hear and feel. As for your concerns, It's as simple as carrying an adapter with you if you need to use someone else's compressor. I keep one in my bag that adapts to a standard industrial coupler. Though a lot of these import compressors that people are getting use a weird "Asian Style" fittings so you have a chance to be boned either way. I also have a universal style coupler on my air system that allows me to use V, T, I/M, and A style couplers if I have to donate air to someone.
@@EyebrowsMahoney Thats actually what I did. I used a spare high flow fitting with a normal fitting attached to it and just leave it with my tire inflator. The high flow fittings did make a difference while airing down for sure. I would see backpressure from the normal fitting, but now with the high flow I am seeing 0 psi. The schrader valves are the restriction now.
When you get your 40s you should consider a 4 way system, it is worth it. I have the same compressor on my Jeep and it has 40s. The time it takes to connect and disconnect the 4 way hoses is probably less than it takes to move from one tire to the next and remove/replace the cores with your set-up. I have a gauge next to the compressor so I can see the tire pressure right there and kill the compressor when they're full. My total time to air the 40s from 8psi to 25 psi is under 10 minutes starting and ending with the hoses stored. If you timed your test on the small tire to include the entire process you'd be well over 10 minutes to do all 4. The bonus is that I'm standing next to the Jeep just watching the gauge instead of working. The icing on the cake would be a pressure switch so it auto-stops when the tires are full. My total breakdown times: 1.5 minutes to pull the hoses out and get them connected. Just under 8 minutes to air down through the system. 5 minutes to air back up. About 2 minutes to store the hoses, that part I forgot to time so I'm estimating.
I have plans to time both ways. I know they're comparable. I have plans to make a 4 corner inflation system that uses 4 small whips instead of the spaghetti mess of the kits available
@@BadlandIndustries Something like my setup may or may not work for you, but I have my compressor under the right rear seat with air fittings mounted at both sides of the seat base. I made two two way hoses so they're easily managed and tangle free. Plug one into each side and go. Both hoses store on top of the compressor. For power I tapped into one of the amplifiers that's near the compressor which has a big power lead, this made the electrical portion easy. My first thought was to plumb the Jeep with a fitting at each corner and make four short whips, but it was going to be a pain. I also considered one fitting at the front and one rear, but what I did was much easier and it keeps the fittings inside where they're protected.
First time watching. Thank you for making very simple like a dummy book. I watched dirt lifestyle first and was like “not everyone has these tools laying around”. Question I have is, how do they add a pre-set required pressure? Like Morrflate, Ezflage, etc. Any ideas?
I have a kings one of these with no pressure switch, it was advertised as having one, but when i got it, it was a lie, so Ill put a breakdown on my channel for you in the next 4 weeks buddy. Des from Perth Western Australia.
Do you have the mk1? I know the mk2 had the switch. I've seen pics recently where the mk2 literally had the pressure switch right where I put it on my compressor.
@BadlandIndustries why is a pressure switch even needed on a mobile compressor ? I understand the need if you are using a shop compressor with a tank. The only scenario I can see is if the unit was attached to a tire or similar and was accidentally turned on, the pressure would be released from the weakest point...
Pressure switch is to limit the compressors run time. If it doesn't run it doesn't wear out the electrical or physical components. Do you need the compressor running while you walk from tire to tire? It's a means to extend the life of the compressor.
What is the clearance between the threads of the pressure switch and the threads of the new extension you placed for the quick connect. Great video...noticed the shirt
They're pretty much touching at this point but did not have any interference. I wanted to install some high flow 1/4in fittings but I might end up plugging the current outlet hole and just drilling another hole on the other end of the center bar when I end up installing it into my truck permanently.
I had to drive 120mi but I finally found one...apparently they're only available at Corporate stores NOT independent. The corporate can't transfer to an Independent. I also seen a pic of the King Thumper MKII and the pressure switch is also mounted underneath the same way. If I understand you correctly, when you have a tank hooked up the pressure switch has to be on the tank, after the check valve, so it reads pressure and operates. If the switch is on the compressor or behind the check valve it won't know the tank is getting low pressure...may be important for some trying to figure out how to do it.
i saw your post in the group. I'm glad you were able to find one. FWIW you can get them from aliexpress for about $250 shipped. not a terrible deal for what the compressor can do.
Yeah nates video went live last Sunday. He addresses a few improvements i may include down the road. But this was more intended for the average guy trying to improve an otherwise pretty good compressor. Nate is on another level!
Anyone tried to use that Milton valve with a 4 tire inflation system? Wondering how much time that saves if any with a 4 tire system as I have same compressor and making similar mods to it. Not sure I want to spend $100+ dollars for 4 of them just to see what kind of difference it makes. I have 37x13.5x18 on a Cummins and need to air front up to 55 and rear to 45 for normal street driving, front end is much heavier due to Cummins, and from 25 front and 20 rear it takes about 8 minutes pre compressor mods, which is less than half what my Viair 400p takes to air up.
I doubt it would save any appreciable time. I can air up all 4 one by each with the Milton valve faster than both my buddies with 4way spaghetti tubes. The Milton valve really helps the maxi trac shine with it's flow rate
Great video. I did almost the same modifications in my 90A compressor but with the air tank. After couple of offroad trips, the compressor ceased to start now.... not sure whether these compressors are designed for it. I used to inflate 4 tires at a time together but with air tank... and user pressure swith as well. Can you help guess what could be the problem. As these compressors are cheaper i am going buy the same again.... but just wondering whether i should use it conventional way (without modification) or again with the same modified setup. Thanks. I learned more about Milton valve from your video.
you'd really have to determine why it's not running. did a relay fail. did the thermo or pressure switch fail, did the motor fail? lots of components in the system can be difficult to diagnose over the interwebs
So i didn't have to move the board. It only needs access to the inside of the pipe. Where it's located is only a matter of convenience and nothing else.
I cant wait to finally be able to find this compressor in stock. Would there be any merit to tapping the 1/8 to 1/4 or does it provide no benefit for flow? I will be modding this to install as onboard air system so I will likely just have a pressure switch and safety valve assembled externally, I may or may not use the built in relay.. Debating if I should just fuse the power line and wire both my kill switch and pressure switch to built in relay or if I should just find a continous duty solenoid or high amp relay to kill the power.
I dont think there's enough depth to run a 1/4in fitting. You could drill out the 1/8in fitting but you're still limited with the quick connect fitting inside diameter.
Having the solenoid in the cover retains simplicity of connections. Check out my second maxi trac video. I show you how you can integrate a tank into the equation if that's something you want on your rig.
It bleeds off eventually. The reed valves aren't a perfect seal so they will let a little bit of air out. If I leave it on it will cycle every few minutes for a second to bring the pressure back up.
Have you considered a one way check valve from viair before going to the other hardware? Keeps the pressure off of the pistons and lowers amp draw on start ups. Since it wouldn't be starting under pressure according to the pressure switch. I'm about to build up one of these Chinese 2 piston compressors, been reading up on them.
a haven't seen any gain from doing that. Because the heads are designed to use reed valves the pressure isn't ever on the piston. I did a tear down in a recent video and I show the way the heads are designed.
@@BadlandIndustries I bought 3 of these compressors when they were on BlackFriday sale and am mounting one in my Class A diesel pusher with a hose kit to have ports near the tires on both sides since it’s 45ft long. Was there a reason that you only put a 90-120psi shutoff instead of one that matches the full output? The reason I’m asking is because the tires on my coach run 100PSI+ so I’m really going to be pushing this one hard. Thinking about doing the same to my truck for the #2 compressor and the #3 will just be for around the house.
@@Chief351L pressure drop with the hose and other factors will make the pressure switch irrelevant. Youll never need anything over 100psi with this compressor
@@BadlandIndustriesI have heard a 70-100psi switch is probably more suitable than anything higher, unless ur pumping up large truck tyres, as u say this will help longevity greatly reducing high operating pressures if u dont require them.
Hey awesome video, attempting this mod currently.. your links for tap n die take through to an NPS thread, but pressure switch has a NPT thread.. do they work together? Cheers Chris
Great mods...Have you heard anything about a reason not putting a pressure switch? I have heard that it's not good for the compressor to start at an already high pressure. Since the switch maintains a high pressure when the compressor starts it is starting then from that already high pressure instead of at 0. Haven't heard any failures of these compressors with the switch mod tho.
Yes I address that in the video. The thumper max mk2 has it and I haven't heard of anyone blowing it up. When I install it into the truck ill plug the hole and run the switch in the tank and run a blow off valve between the compressor and tank. That way itll still shut off at the desired psi and won't see any pressure against the reed valves and pistons
I see pump manufacturers say to have the pump running before connecting to a tire. I don’t know why they recommend it, but are there long term adverse effects from adding the switch?
I did some research and found that the pump should be running because the resistance the motor encounters overcoming the tire air pressure can drive up the current draw and blow fuses. I figure that if the supply cable and fuse are big enough, it shouldn’t cause an issue and the pressure switch will be just fine.
@chrisgarcia6482 the way the reed valves work there is never any pressure on the pistons when off. The pressure switch only measures the air between the reed valve and the end of the hose. The second the piston stops moving the intake valves relax and there's zero piston pressure.
I meant the pump has to overcome the pressure inside the tire. I was asking because I was told your method would be bad for the pump, but I think your way is totally fine. It’s just a matter of making sure the amperage draw doesn’t blow fuses.
Anyone have any intel on replacement piston head hex bolts? I don’t know who tighten the ones on mine, but apparently it was King Kong. I was able to get 7 of them off without a problem. The 8th one stripped immediately. I know it’s an HDW 8.8, just need to know the thread pitch and length.
A commenter on dirtlifestyle channel said he had problems using vacuum grease & the compressor would not run properly so he used a little gun oil & it worked fine ever since, but then others say not to use a petroleum based lube & some say a lithium based grease. Dirtlifestyle used a bit of Vaseline.
@@BadlandIndustries Ive run a power lead to the back of my truck and only had a 50a breaker. Turns out that works perfectly. Just an FYI for others. Love this mod. Cheers
Not this compressor but I did an example of Onboard air system that CAN run air tools. I also made a couple vids similar to this just a different compressor. I made an expansion tank system and allows use of air tools as well as describe some of the principles to keep in mind while designing/building an air system. Can find them on my channel by searching MrMotofy Onboard Air
If it discontinued why don’t they pull the listing on their website they say the same exact thing a couple of month ago too same thing as their maxi trac awning which is discontinued but you’ll find it back in stock in a couple of month too
Looks like there is some room to move the pressure switch off center so it does not interfere with the existing discharge fitting. Also, we’re you able to tap full thickness before bottoming out? Looks like you linked a bottoming tap, but wasn’t sure it had enough room.
While it wont hurt to add it, it wont make any difference if adding a 4 tyre inflation kit, the pressure switch will only turn it off when it reaches the preset pressure, in this case 120psi, so ur tyres wont get that high unless ur pumping up a large truck.
@@BadlandIndustries I just sprayed everything with soapy water and noticed that where the tube threads into the heads on both sides had slight leaks. Looks like I'll take them apart and try to get them to seal and re try.
Availability updated ...according to napa rep these will be back in stock 5/27 ..so ya know. (Hope you don't mind me posting Availability here)..cheers!
Yeah I've been looking at that pressure for a little bit I was just seeing if it would run my air tools get some bolts and stuff off if it's possible let me know thank you very much
Eh sort of...but you need more air volume especially for an impact etc. I also made a couple vids similar to this just a different compressor. I made an expansion tank system and allows use of air tools as well as describe some of the principles to keep in mind while designing/building an air system. Can find them on my channel by searching MrMotofy Onboard Air
I just got one today was gonna order one on aliexpress because I couldn’t find it anywhere but didn’t want to pay the ludicrous shipping price and I wasn’t in a hurry to get a air compressor
@@kewkew2 they not gone forever my guess is that it sold out very quick do to the price and it take very long to ship from overseas because of current situation the same with the maxi trac awning
It seems that since you have to rebuild the whole thing, I'd go buy one that was right to start with. And that Amazon appears to be who your advertising for you lost me.
I dont see how adding a pressure switch and a quick connect air fitting constitutes "rebuilding". As for the advertising, no, I'm not advertising for Amazon. Nearly everyone uses their services and amazon has an affiliate program where we content creators can refer to you the parts you'll need to complete this task. This saves you time and effort searching through thousands of listings and when you click the link we make a couple cents as a commission. Whats crazy is that it doesn't cost you anything!
An ARB compressor is about $1000 in Australia & doesn’t pump as fast, so we can get 5 x Kings for 1 x ARB. One commenter said he had a 4WD shop bench full of ARB compressors with broken conrods because of the high pressure they run & has only ever seen a few of the other Chinese brands, maybe because its easier to throw & replace at Chinese price. I have 3 Chinese compressor for years now, while they dont get a lot of work, none have ever failed me, even tho one has had a loose head bolt from new. If I ever need another I think it will be Chinese, I am not proud to say.
I watch every Maxi Trac video I find. I've seen a dozen different takes on the pressure switch mod. By far yours is the best, nice job.
Thanks man
I have a strong feeling that this guy has a wealth of knowledge to share, hence subscribed!
"apparently the kids are out of school" that got me. However the Schrader valve limitation is something I had not considered for quick tire inflation... Thank you sir.
Nice reference of the ever elusive 10mm too.
That Milton valve is pretty trick.
Maybe we should start selling Adventure Kings in the USA! You guys are missing out without that pressure switch - great job adding it yourself though, cool vid!
Cheers,
Cahn
Several vendors are importing them with the switch already on there. Get rid of the junk fittings and you might have a shot.
The kings awning and thumper max compressors have sold very well under the maxi-tracs (Napa) brand here. You guys had both of those products for years before us and Napa cant keep them in stock. I'm not sure our market would use swags but the rest of your camping gear would do well. AliExpress may be on the cusp of knocking out all the middle man import stuff though so I'd say its time sensitive.
Can you please explain why a pressure switch is even needed for a tankless compressor ? Thanks
Great video. Something I have learned from others with this compressor along with my own is that you need to check the power wire coming into the main board. There has been wire poking through the heatshrink and that can lead to a short and fry everything.
Good thing to check. This one didn't seem to have an issue.
Mine came with it poking through how do I fix it.
@@daboss9889I trimmed the wires that were poking out on mine very carefully then put new heat shrink over the old heat shrink, then put a ton of electrical tape over that.
@@BadlandIndustriesglad yours didn't. I have saw quite a few that did, and one fried soon as it was turned on due to it grounding out.
@@jeep_eat_repeat_Overlanding thanks man I appreciate it
Good video as always. Since I am a little suspect on the durability I will probably just do the external switch for now. I had the power relay/switch go out on mine already. I like the Chinese "nitto" couplers I switched over my four-way system to that over the industrial. See how that works out.
I popped mine open before even firing it up the first time. Re-did some of the heatshrink, and rebuilt the power switch connectors. Good enough at the price so far.
FYI.... Nitto are Japanese connectors. Great vid.
Nice idea.i didn't think about adding it inside the plastic housing. I added a pressure switch to mine with a nipple and a T,as well as a remote on/off switch for when it's mounted in my blazer I can turn it on and off with my S Pod.
Nice touch with the spod
To answer your question this is exactly how the kings pressure switch is done, the first thing I did when I got my maxi trac was to fit the heads, manifold and pressure switch off my black kings unit (which died on the 3rd tyre the first time I used it). I haven't used the maxi yet, but my 16 year old Projecta Typhoon failed last weekend so next trip the maxi will get a run.
It was far too convenient of a spot for the switch.
Thanks for doing the live fill up tests both ways!
My CO2 tanks respectfully disagrees with your 2 cfm statement. If you think about it, all compressors above 2 cfm would have the same performance if it were true. There are also varying figures online claiming 2.6, 4.5 and 9.3 CFM. Reality is CFM is a measure of volume over time, not pressure. Things like air temperature and pressure greatly change the amount of volume a fitting can flow. That being said, alleviating pressure on a compressor like this will actually allow it to pump more volume since its CFM rating drops with pressure, which is why a 4 way inflation setup gives much faster inflation times. Thanks for the video man, keep it up
I agree on that point. Most on the market compressors are only capable of providing 100ish pounds of pressure. 100% agree your co2 is far more capable than 2cfm. Hit up morrflate and see what they tested at since that is where I got that figure.
I have that same little hammer and I love it. Thanks for the vid!
It’s actually a 5.5 limit. That’s why most pumps are 5.5. A 11cfm you will hit the limit and get massive back pressure so you’ll need to do two tires at once.
Finally got my hands on one of these! I'm going to follow your mods. Thanks for the great video.
I heard napa just released the second version. I'm bummed they didn't include the switch or fittings.
@@BadlandIndustries agreed. It airs up tires so fast that by the time my TPMS on the dash says I'm at 32 PSI, and I turn off the compressor it's at 37 PSI. I think the mods you explained will make this compressor awesome.
I used the other end of the quick disconnect on the pump, so the pump can not over pressure, because it's always open. Plus when I'm airing down, I just connect the air hoses to the tires and push the center of the closed end of the quick disconnect with a stick or my key to the desired air pressure while I'm checking the psi. Once I reach the psi I want, the air stops by releasing the valve, and I just disconnect the hose valves from the tires. At the end I release the pressure from the hose before I put it away.
😎👍
Sounds like that will work for your situation.
What I think would help your inflation time significantly is upgrading the line from that 1/8 ID airline and fittings to 1/4 or 3/8ths. Additionally moving to a Milton V coupler type instead of the Typical I/M Industrial quick connects will help airflow considerably. I've switched all my stuff over to Milton V when airflow is a consideration. It really helps with Impacts but inflation goes a good bit quicker provided the inflator has the capacity to handle it. (and I have the same Milton air chuck, it does benefit from more airflow - haven't measured it and probably should)
I just my 40s in. I think that would be a fun experiment.
@@BadlandIndustries my hypothesis is you'll see a definite difference from 0-15 psi. Once you get to the higher PSIs, high volume compressors start to struggle a bit more and the gains will be negligible. But regardless, it will really help on the trail with rebeading (that's where I noticed it helping).
I dont think a Milton V would matter on this compressor necessarily. My 120V 6 gallon pancake compressor puts out about 50% more flow than this thing does and its not restricted by a standard 1/4" fitting. If I fill my tires with my 4 tire inflator, the pressure at the compressor is the same as whats in the tires.
However, what I found is that when I am airing down with my 4 tire inflator, the standard 1/4" male fitting restricts air coming out.
My only worry running Milton V's on my inflator and compressor is that if I ever needed to use someone elses compressor it might cause issues.
@@Jay-me7gw The idea is to reduce any resistance as much as possible. Technically, yes - most compressors under 12 CFM of output, won't see the difference. Where you'll really notice it, is if you have a tank. The output to the tool should be able to suit the air demands of the tool. So for an impact, you'll want to make sure it sees as much CFM as possible, because the air tank will be able to provide the high amounts of CFM in short bursts (depending on how big the tank is), you should use a high flow fitting and large diameter hose. Technically the I/M standard "industrial" connectors are good up to 40CFM but my impacts definitely do perform better with a V coupler - it's a difference you can both hear and feel.
As for your concerns, It's as simple as carrying an adapter with you if you need to use someone else's compressor. I keep one in my bag that adapts to a standard industrial coupler. Though a lot of these import compressors that people are getting use a weird "Asian Style" fittings so you have a chance to be boned either way. I also have a universal style coupler on my air system that allows me to use V, T, I/M, and A style couplers if I have to donate air to someone.
@@EyebrowsMahoney Thats actually what I did. I used a spare high flow fitting with a normal fitting attached to it and just leave it with my tire inflator.
The high flow fittings did make a difference while airing down for sure. I would see backpressure from the normal fitting, but now with the high flow I am seeing 0 psi. The schrader valves are the restriction now.
Badass video!
Love the detail. Learned a lot. Just ordered mine prior to watching this video.
Subscribed! Exciting to see more videos
Thanks saul
Appreciate the video, relatively an easy modification I did swap out to a 1/4" hose though.
That will definitely help. I appreciate the comment.
Those Chinesium ones appear to be Nitto 1/4 fittings standard on almost all Australian air fittings
I believe so. Here in the states the 1/4" is more standard.
Well done mate. I’ve got the kings thumper max that is now playing up and I think this will fix the issue. Cheers champion.
When you get your 40s you should consider a 4 way system, it is worth it. I have the same compressor on my Jeep and it has 40s. The time it takes to connect and disconnect the 4 way hoses is probably less than it takes to move from one tire to the next and remove/replace the cores with your set-up. I have a gauge next to the compressor so I can see the tire pressure right there and kill the compressor when they're full. My total time to air the 40s from 8psi to 25 psi is under 10 minutes starting and ending with the hoses stored. If you timed your test on the small tire to include the entire process you'd be well over 10 minutes to do all 4. The bonus is that I'm standing next to the Jeep just watching the gauge instead of working. The icing on the cake would be a pressure switch so it auto-stops when the tires are full.
My total breakdown times: 1.5 minutes to pull the hoses out and get them connected. Just under 8 minutes to air down through the system. 5 minutes to air back up. About 2 minutes to store the hoses, that part I forgot to time so I'm estimating.
I have plans to time both ways. I know they're comparable. I have plans to make a 4 corner inflation system that uses 4 small whips instead of the spaghetti mess of the kits available
@@BadlandIndustries Something like my setup may or may not work for you, but I have my compressor under the right rear seat with air fittings mounted at both sides of the seat base. I made two two way hoses so they're easily managed and tangle free. Plug one into each side and go. Both hoses store on top of the compressor. For power I tapped into one of the amplifiers that's near the compressor which has a big power lead, this made the electrical portion easy.
My first thought was to plumb the Jeep with a fitting at each corner and make four short whips, but it was going to be a pain. I also considered one fitting at the front and one rear, but what I did was much easier and it keeps the fittings inside where they're protected.
Thank you so much for your invaluable information, highly appreciate it, keep it up the outstanding job, have a great day.
Great video man. The pressure switch in your description is a link for a 1/4" pressure switch though. Just thought I'd give you a heads up.
Good call. I just fixed it.
Thanks mate, did the same yesterday and works a treat.
Good job mate, nice clean install
Wtf, you saying hey google got my phone going😂
Lolololol
Great video
First time watching. Thank you for making very simple like a dummy book. I watched dirt lifestyle first and was like “not everyone has these tools laying around”. Question I have is, how do they add a pre-set required pressure? Like Morrflate, Ezflage, etc. Any ideas?
No idea. Youll want to call them. Imo the 80-100 range is good since you'll never need that much and it'll always shut off.
I have a kings one of these with no pressure switch, it was advertised as having one, but when i got it, it was a lie, so Ill put a breakdown on my channel for you in the next 4 weeks buddy. Des from Perth Western Australia.
Do you have the mk1? I know the mk2 had the switch. I've seen pics recently where the mk2 literally had the pressure switch right where I put it on my compressor.
@@BadlandIndustries I'll get a photo to you, feel free to email me through my channel, I'll respond with a few photos
@@destnations5588 I know the mk1 didn't have one, the mk2 did
@BadlandIndustries why is a pressure switch even needed on a mobile compressor ? I understand the need if you are using a shop compressor with a tank.
The only scenario I can see is if the unit was attached to a tire or similar and was accidentally turned on, the pressure would be released from the weakest point...
Pressure switch is to limit the compressors run time. If it doesn't run it doesn't wear out the electrical or physical components. Do you need the compressor running while you walk from tire to tire? It's a means to extend the life of the compressor.
Well done. Cheers from OZ
Wtf, best build. SUBSCRIBED
What is the clearance between the threads of the pressure switch and the threads of the new extension you placed for the quick connect. Great video...noticed the shirt
They're pretty much touching at this point but did not have any interference. I wanted to install some high flow 1/4in fittings but I might end up plugging the current outlet hole and just drilling another hole on the other end of the center bar when I end up installing it into my truck permanently.
The internals of that compressor match the kings thumper max. Not sure about the V2 though. I have modified mine signifcantly.
I believe the mk2 had the switch but was the same board.
I had to drive 120mi but I finally found one...apparently they're only available at Corporate stores NOT independent. The corporate can't transfer to an Independent.
I also seen a pic of the King Thumper MKII and the pressure switch is also mounted underneath the same way.
If I understand you correctly, when you have a tank hooked up the pressure switch has to be on the tank, after the check valve, so it reads pressure and operates. If the switch is on the compressor or behind the check valve it won't know the tank is getting low pressure...may be important for some trying to figure out how to do it.
i saw your post in the group. I'm glad you were able to find one. FWIW you can get them from aliexpress for about $250 shipped. not a terrible deal for what the compressor can do.
another video will be coming out on how to attach it to a tank for on board air
This was a great video. Also watch Dirt Lifestyle who did a similar mod to this but also replaced the board with just a relay.
Yeah nates video went live last Sunday. He addresses a few improvements i may include down the road. But this was more intended for the average guy trying to improve an otherwise pretty good compressor. Nate is on another level!
Anyone tried to use that Milton valve with a 4 tire inflation system? Wondering how much time that saves if any with a 4 tire system as I have same compressor and making similar mods to it. Not sure I want to spend $100+ dollars for 4 of them just to see what kind of difference it makes. I have 37x13.5x18 on a Cummins and need to air front up to 55 and rear to 45 for normal street driving, front end is much heavier due to Cummins, and from 25 front and 20 rear it takes about 8 minutes pre compressor mods, which is less than half what my Viair 400p takes to air up.
I doubt it would save any appreciable time. I can air up all 4 one by each with the Milton valve faster than both my buddies with 4way spaghetti tubes. The Milton valve really helps the maxi trac shine with it's flow rate
Great video.
I did almost the same modifications in my 90A compressor but with the air tank. After couple of offroad trips, the compressor ceased to start now.... not sure whether these compressors are designed for it. I used to inflate 4 tires at a time together but with air tank... and user pressure swith as well. Can you help guess what could be the problem. As these compressors are cheaper i am going buy the same again.... but just wondering whether i should use it conventional way (without modification) or again with the same modified setup. Thanks. I learned more about Milton valve from your video.
you'd really have to determine why it's not running. did a relay fail. did the thermo or pressure switch fail, did the motor fail? lots of components in the system can be difficult to diagnose over the interwebs
I don't until why it needs a pressure switch since it doesn't have a tank.
Is there a reason why you put the switch right below the discharge hole and not on the complete opposite side??
So i didn't have to move the board. It only needs access to the inside of the pipe. Where it's located is only a matter of convenience and nothing else.
Great video! Thanks for sharing! Can you tell me what size for the Barb adaptor?
It depends on what size hose you use. I chose 3/16 since I wanted to fit 25 ft in the bag and I was concerned the 1/4 wouldn't fit.
I cant wait to finally be able to find this compressor in stock. Would there be any merit to tapping the 1/8 to 1/4 or does it provide no benefit for flow? I will be modding this to install as onboard air system so I will likely just have a pressure switch and safety valve assembled externally, I may or may not use the built in relay.. Debating if I should just fuse the power line and wire both my kill switch and pressure switch to built in relay or if I should just find a continous duty solenoid or high amp relay to kill the power.
I dont think there's enough depth to run a 1/4in fitting. You could drill out the 1/8in fitting but you're still limited with the quick connect fitting inside diameter.
Having the solenoid in the cover retains simplicity of connections. Check out my second maxi trac video. I show you how you can integrate a tank into the equation if that's something you want on your rig.
No tapping /cutting fluid? You tapped the pipe threads further than you should have because they are tapered!
Still works to this day...
Anyone know where I can get this ? Seems to be out of stock online
Couple options but they're nearly double the price. Join the fb group.
Do you have a link for the stuff to unload the pressure back to the compressor when off?
It bleeds off eventually. The reed valves aren't a perfect seal so they will let a little bit of air out. If I leave it on it will cycle every few minutes for a second to bring the pressure back up.
Have you considered a one way check valve from viair before going to the other hardware? Keeps the pressure off of the pistons and lowers amp draw on start ups. Since it wouldn't be starting under pressure according to the pressure switch. I'm about to build up one of these Chinese 2 piston compressors, been reading up on them.
a haven't seen any gain from doing that. Because the heads are designed to use reed valves the pressure isn't ever on the piston. I did a tear down in a recent video and I show the way the heads are designed.
Omg. I used mine for the first time. I have 37 tires on my gladiator. It was definitely faster than my friends arb. But I need to make this conversion
Most trucks only have 4 tires...yours with 37 must be an offroad beast haha
I've been trying to order this for the past few months.
My local Napa guy is trying though.
Hop on aliexpress and just snag one. Search 60mm dual compressor.
@@BadlandIndustries thanks Sir.
New subscriber just for the feedback.
@@tonymontgomery5827 be warned they're about $250.
@@BadlandIndustries WOW! That's a lot more than what Napa is quoting. 129$ through them.
@@tonymontgomery5827 yeah but shipping one across the ocean vs a couple containers...
Are these still available? Napa website says sold out! If not, do you have another recommendation? Thanks
Several vendors offer them but they're easily $100 more. Seems like they come modified so thats a plus.
Great Video! I don’t think the Schroeder Valve Doo-hickey is worth using for just saving a half minute…
With larger tires it adds up. An added bonus is running your compressor less and thus extending its life.
@@BadlandIndustries I bought 3 of these compressors when they were on BlackFriday sale and am mounting one in my Class A diesel pusher with a hose kit to have ports near the tires on both sides since it’s 45ft long. Was there a reason that you only put a 90-120psi shutoff instead of one that matches the full output? The reason I’m asking is because the tires on my coach run 100PSI+ so I’m really going to be pushing this one hard.
Thinking about doing the same to my truck for the #2 compressor and the #3 will just be for around the house.
@@Chief351L pressure drop with the hose and other factors will make the pressure switch irrelevant. Youll never need anything over 100psi with this compressor
if your neighbor mows their lawn and there are no youtubers attempting to film in the area did they even mow their lawn?
It feels like that sometimes lol
What Gauge wire did you use to run from pressure switch to circuit board?
Prob 18 or 16ga. It only needs to withstand the coil in the relay. Same size as the wires going to the switch.
Maxipad compressors.. some prefer tampon compressors..
How has the mods held up. I urchased this over a uear ago. Still works great. I haven't done the mods to it. So I was thinking of doing it😊
So far so good. I honestly only use it about once a month. But every time I do it flat works.
Can you try putting a pressure regulator on the line and have it trigger the pressure cutoff when the tyres reach your set pressure?
I would expect so. Honestly its so fast to just hit each tire.
I’m a little late to the party on this, but just recently found out about this compressor. How has it held up?
I haven't had any issues personally. I don't use it terribly often but I do attribute longer life to the lower psi switch and shorter run time.
@@BadlandIndustriesI have heard a 70-100psi switch is probably more suitable than anything higher, unless ur pumping up large truck tyres, as u say this will help longevity greatly reducing high operating pressures if u dont require them.
Can you send a link where I can buy this air compressor
Its completely out of stock but there are several other retailers selling nearly identical models.
Can you list the hardware that you used on both ends of the air line modification...2 pieces on each end specifically...thanks.
This are the barb adaptors listed in the description. You just need to adapt the hose to 1/4 quick connect.
7 threads
My manifold isn't 1/8,in between 1/8-1/4?,where original air hose came out??
should be 1/8 in npt
The all-top version isn’t either(or at least the one I got). I was able to get a 1/8” NPT tap and make it work though.
Any idea how much CFM the Apex Rapid Deflators allow in during air up?
Prob more than most compressors are capable of putting out. Reach out to them and let me know what they say.
Hey awesome video, attempting this mod currently.. your links for tap n die take through to an NPS thread, but pressure switch has a NPT thread.. do they work together?
Cheers Chris
Lemme check that. The listing my have changed in the year since video has been up.
Fixed it.
I’ve been looking for this compressor for a year now , what happened did they go out of business or what? Or does someone know where I can find it
Morrflate and several others sell a similar compressor. They all are likely being made in the same factory.
Have you installed this on your rig and will you be having a install video for it?
I'm building the truck right now. Ill be doing a flat bed with tool boxes later this year. Ill do a hard mount install then.
Great mods...Have you heard anything about a reason not putting a pressure switch? I have heard that it's not good for the compressor to start at an already high pressure. Since the switch maintains a high pressure when the compressor starts it is starting then from that already high pressure instead of at 0. Haven't heard any failures of these compressors with the switch mod tho.
Yes I address that in the video. The thumper max mk2 has it and I haven't heard of anyone blowing it up. When I install it into the truck ill plug the hole and run the switch in the tank and run a blow off valve between the compressor and tank. That way itll still shut off at the desired psi and won't see any pressure against the reed valves and pistons
I think that's why they have you start the compressor before hooking it up... to reduce pressure on startup
I see pump manufacturers say to have the pump running before connecting to a tire. I don’t know why they recommend it, but are there long term adverse effects from adding the switch?
Honestly, if it's not running it can't break so the less time it's running the less likely it is to breat over time.
I did some research and found that the pump should be running because the resistance the motor encounters overcoming the tire air pressure can drive up the current draw and blow fuses. I figure that if the supply cable and fuse are big enough, it shouldn’t cause an issue and the pressure switch will be just fine.
@chrisgarcia6482 the way the reed valves work there is never any pressure on the pistons when off. The pressure switch only measures the air between the reed valve and the end of the hose. The second the piston stops moving the intake valves relax and there's zero piston pressure.
I meant the pump has to overcome the pressure inside the tire. I was asking because I was told your method would be bad for the pump, but I think your way is totally fine. It’s just a matter of making sure the amperage draw doesn’t blow fuses.
By the way, great video. I learned a lot and plan on following your lead.
Would a 3/8" hose make any difference?
It certainly wouldn't hurt but you'll always be limited by the most restricted component in the system. AKA the valve core.
Anyone have any intel on replacement piston head hex bolts? I don’t know who tighten the ones on mine, but apparently it was King Kong. I was able to get 7 of them off without a problem. The 8th one stripped immediately. I know it’s an HDW 8.8, just need to know the thread pitch and length.
Measure and see what one costs from mcmaster carr
@@BadlandIndustries Thanks!
Great video! Just opened mine up to do the mod and found one piston have zero grease. Any recommendation on what I should use?
I believe these are oilless compressors. Id reach out to napa to see if they recommend anything.
Buy some vacuum grease off Amazon
A commenter on dirtlifestyle channel said he had problems using vacuum grease & the compressor would not run properly so he used a little gun oil & it worked fine ever since, but then others say not to use a petroleum based lube & some say a lithium based grease. Dirtlifestyle used a bit of Vaseline.
How has this been holding up since you got it? Any issues or regret getting it?
No issues so far. No failures. I don't have a ton of use out of it as I'm building my rig still but it does great when I need it.
I also dont think it runs 90amps. Looks to be 5mm power wire which is 40 amp on a good day.
They're rated 780w so at 12v thats 65a. Not quite the 90 but maybe it'll hit that on startup.
@@BadlandIndustries Ive run a power lead to the back of my truck and only had a 50a breaker. Turns out that works perfectly. Just an FYI for others. Love this mod. Cheers
@@robdefire4747 I'm not convinced it pulls 90a but any fuse/breaker is better than nothing.
have you tried filling an air tank to 100psi with this compressor.for an onboard air setup..
No but I'd be happy to try. I put a gauge on it and it did 135psi so I dont think it'll have an issue hitting 100.
Not this compressor but I did an example of Onboard air system that CAN run air tools.
I also made a couple vids similar to this just a different compressor. I made an expansion tank system and allows use of air tools as well as describe some of the principles to keep in mind while designing/building an air system. Can find them on my channel by searching MrMotofy Onboard Air
Napa Auto says this is discontinued. None available anywhere.
They were available this morning. Its likely they found a pallet and only had a limited qty.
If it discontinued why don’t they pull the listing on their website they say the same exact thing a couple of month ago too same thing as their maxi trac awning which is discontinued but you’ll find it back in stock in a couple of month too
@@Hmoob101 drive traffic to the site. Or they may bring it back. Who knows.
is it 8inch pipe tap and 21/64 drill bit that you used to put in the pressure switch?
8th inch
Yessir, 21/64th bit is for the 1/8in pipe tap linked in the description.
Looks like there is some room to move the pressure switch off center so it does not interfere with the existing discharge fitting. Also, we’re you able to tap full thickness before bottoming out? Looks like you linked a bottoming tap, but wasn’t sure it had enough room.
The tap i used was a standard tap and stopped when it bottomed out.
Should I do this mod even if I’m going to use a 4 tire hose kit?
It won't hurt it to add it. The less it runs the longer it'll live
While it wont hurt to add it, it wont make any difference if adding a 4 tyre inflation kit, the pressure switch will only turn it off when it reaches the preset pressure, in this case 120psi, so ur tyres wont get that high unless ur pumping up a large truck.
I added a 120 psi pressure switch to mine and it still does not shut off. Could I have a bad switch possibly?
No the pump isn't capable of that. Needs the 100psi I recommended.
You could have some blow by around the pistons or leaking reed valves.
@@BadlandIndustries I just sprayed everything with soapy water and noticed that where the tube threads into the heads on both sides had slight leaks. Looks like I'll take them apart and try to get them to seal and re try.
@@dirtrocker8 thanks an easy fix.
I just realized you’re wearing a MORR shirt.
anyone know where to pick one of these compressiors up?..napa is out of stock and local Napa stores cant get one either
dig through aliexpress. you can get them shipped for about $200
Back in stock
@@Hmoob101 just ordered one..thanks for the heads up!
glad i ordered when i did they are out of stock again
Availability updated ...according to napa rep these will be back in stock 5/27 ..so ya know. (Hope you don't mind me posting Availability here)..cheers!
Can't find this compressor anywhere!!!!!
Keep an eye out. Napa sometimes finds an extra pallet.
@@BadlandIndustries is there an alternative to this compressor that is just has good?
@@gufiaito69able there are several companies offering them. They're all coming out of the same warehouses in China. Just a different color.
What's the chances of that thing running air tools?
With a tank I would wager pretty good. By itself it puts out quite a bit of air. I have a grinder ill try today.
Yeah I've been looking at that pressure for a little bit I was just seeing if it would run my air tools get some bolts and stuff off if it's possible let me know thank you very much
Eh sort of...but you need more air volume especially for an impact etc.
I also made a couple vids similar to this just a different compressor. I made an expansion tank system and allows use of air tools as well as describe some of the principles to keep in mind while designing/building an air system. Can find them on my channel by searching MrMotofy Onboard Air
@@mrmotofy next video is how to hook up an air tank to this compressor.
Have u extended the power cables?
I dont plan to.
@@BadlandIndustries I wanted to use it for my arb lockers. What are your thoughts?
@@egtallday with the pressure switch mod you should be able to use it to run your lockers. Do the arb lockers have a pressure limit?
@@BadlandIndustries it says 100- 150psi
@@BadlandIndustries should I use arb 180901 switch?
I looked everywhere for these maxi tracks every Napa is sold out anybody have a hookup or no where I can get one thanks
Aliexpress. They're about $250 but you gotta do some searching on there.
I just got one today was gonna order one on aliexpress because I couldn’t find it anywhere but didn’t want to pay the ludicrous shipping price and I wasn’t in a hurry to get a air compressor
@@Hmoob101 I didn't know they were back in stock everybody said they were completely gone forever just order mine today too thanks
@@kewkew2 they not gone forever my guess is that it sold out very quick do to the price and it take very long to ship from overseas because of current situation the same with the maxi trac awning
@@kewkew2 don’t forget that if you AAA member you get 10% off also I think there is still another discount that is still active
I can't even find them anymore
Unfortunately not. You can get the generic ones from China but not at the napa price.
NAPA are China too.....
@@vwvr6t no but the manufacturers that napa bought these compressors from are.
If you haven’t got one they are back in stock
At the store cause I know you can't order them on line
MaxiTrac doesn't make them anymore.
Well it looks like napa won't be bringing them back but there are a bunch of other options.
The reed valves will leak down and kick the compressor back on
see ruclips.net/video/CwIrA19YvS8/видео.html
Yes but having the switch in the tank on the other side of the check valve allow the compressor to com on only when the tank bleeds off.
It seems that since you have to rebuild the whole thing, I'd go buy one that was right to start with.
And that Amazon appears to be who your advertising for you lost me.
I dont see how adding a pressure switch and a quick connect air fitting constitutes "rebuilding". As for the advertising, no, I'm not advertising for Amazon. Nearly everyone uses their services and amazon has an affiliate program where we content creators can refer to you the parts you'll need to complete this task. This saves you time and effort searching through thousands of listings and when you click the link we make a couple cents as a commission. Whats crazy is that it doesn't cost you anything!
An ARB compressor is about $1000 in Australia & doesn’t pump as fast, so we can get 5 x Kings for 1 x ARB. One commenter said he had a 4WD shop bench full of ARB compressors with broken conrods because of the high pressure they run & has only ever seen a few of the other Chinese brands, maybe because its easier to throw & replace at Chinese price. I have 3 Chinese compressor for years now, while they dont get a lot of work, none have ever failed me, even tho one has had a loose head bolt from new.
If I ever need another I think it will be Chinese, I am not proud to say.
eeeww why use ryco fittings? Nitto is superior in everyway, More airflow better build.
It's only an 1/8" fitting off the manifold. So it really doesn't matter what fittings are used, because it's already restricted.