I've watched a few gauge testing videos including a few of yours. This one gave me enough info to tackle my 68 dart temp & inconsistent gas gauge.1000 thanks! 👊
Thank you, and welcome to the channel. I'm glad I managed simple. I am an electronics engineer by trade, so I tend to go WAYYYYY to deep when doing content like this. Lol.
dude i laughed so hard because i just bought a 67 dart and literally the first thing you said...was all my problems. temp and fuel dont work but the volt meter does. I guess I have a true mopar lol
@reapwhatyousow3383 Welcome and thanks for the comment! I hope this video is helpful for you. I made this based on another viewer's questions in the comments. I was fortunate and all my gauges worked. If you end up having questions, feel free to give me a holler. I hope to see you around, and thanks you for the Sub as well.
Maybe a little off subject but similar. Most temp gauges lie. If youve got a mk4 vw ,itll sit on 190 while the actual engine temp is 165-200. Alot of other cars do that ,theyve done it since the 70s and maybe earlier. It's literally some psychology coming into play, the brain likes to see a gauge halfway in between its metering points so they set them up to do so.
Ok this is what I have found after testing. The right post behind the temp gauge reads 12.4 volts, even with the key off. When I read the left side, where the voltage limiter is connected to comes in, it reads between 0-8 volts with the car key on. It reads 0 volts with it off. I also checked the temp sensor wire and it is reading 12.4 as well with the car off. I assume I should not have any power on G2 (Temp sensor wire) with the key off. But the wiring diagram I have looked at ends there. The fuel gauge is not having that issue, power only comes to it when I switch the key on and it is 0-8 volts. Any help from here?
Sorry about the delay. Work is busy as hell right now. You are spot on when you say you should not have 12.4v on your temp sender wire. You should see the same 0-8 volt pulsing signal. I am assuming when you say you checked the wire, you checked it at the connector like I showed checking the black 12v into the PCB. If you have 12v on the wire with the connector disconnected from the PCB, then you have a short to a 12v source somewhere in the wiring harness and you will need to check the wire (G2 - violet wire) back to the sender to find the issue. It runs straight to the sender so you shouldn't have to worry about any splits or junctions. Is your fuel gauge operating normally now or is it still not functioning?
Fuel is not working, so I went to the easiest sensor to get to, which was the temp sensor. I can say that I pulled the harness from the bulkhead disconnect, so nothing is shorting from the engine compartment. so I have to say something is shorting near the back of the cluster. When I pull the voltage limiter out and test, I can say that we have 0 volts. But when I plug it back in we have 12.4 volts again. And no need to apologize for the delay. I don't expect a fast answer, and you have been amazing, so thank you!@@MontsweagGarage
@@MontsweagGarage well I Believe I found the problem. After inspecting under the dash for a good hour I found that the wires are melted together right after they come in the bulk head. This is going to be fun.
ruclips.net/user/shortsxxSE75fmdV0?si=zRavflsxwXn8Vd9O I figured I would do a short for you to see what I found. It seems that it only affected three wires, the ground and positive coming in melted together with one third wire.
Oh damn! You're lucky that didn't start a fire. Sorry it took so long to get back to you. This message went into my "waiting for approval" queue, probably because of the link. I'm glad you found the issue. Re-pinning the bulkhead connector shouldn't be too difficult, just a bit tedious. Does the new connector come with new pins or do you need to reuse the old ones?
@@MontsweagGarage is there any way to put a fuse in on that hot wire coming into the bulkhead prior to it coming in from the firewall? I would hate for this to happen again and then I have to either fix the wires again or have a fire that does much more damage.
@@joefall You sure can. O'reilly has them for 4-5 bucks and they just splice in. If you are splicing wires anyway, no reason not to. You'll just need to figure out what size fuse to use for that line. Here's a link to the one in stock at my local store: www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/blister-pack/littelfuse-blister-pack-fuse-holder/lit3/fhm2bp?q=inline+fuse+holder&pos=0
@@MontsweagGarage so I just rewired the bulk coming in and got the car running again. The gas and temp gauges still not working. I did connect a 6v battery to the fuel gauge and it is responding. And when I turn the car on the needle for the fuel wants to move but then drops. Could I have burned up the voltage limiter? It is only putting out a max of 5.5v and is more average around 3v. Also can I test the temp gauge the same way I tested the fuel gauge with the 6v battery? I connected it but I had no movement but I'm your video you only test the fuel gauge. Hope you are doing well and in advance thank you for your help!
Glad to hear you got it up and running. I'd bet that you are right and the voltage limiter is smoked. That or your gauges. I will check my temp gauge next time I get the opportunity. I am currently without power....again, and work is in high gear. I should get a chance this weekend if the snow/rain stops. You are quite welcome for what help I can provide.
I've watched a few gauge testing videos including a few of yours. This one gave me enough info to tackle my 68 dart temp & inconsistent gas gauge.1000 thanks! 👊
Welcome Dustin and thanks for the comment! I am glad this was helpful! If you run into issues, fell free to hit me up, I will help as much as I can.
Great video! That was a great explanation of what to look for.
Thanks Tony! I literally threw this together in an afternoon to answer a viewer question. Glad it worked out well!
nice. well done and simple.
Thank you, and welcome to the channel. I'm glad I managed simple. I am an electronics engineer by trade, so I tend to go WAYYYYY to deep when doing content like this. Lol.
Well done, keep up the great work.
Thank you, Chumley! I am glad you enjoyed it!
dude i laughed so hard because i just bought a 67 dart and literally the first thing you said...was all my problems. temp and fuel dont work but the volt meter does. I guess I have a true mopar lol
@reapwhatyousow3383 Welcome and thanks for the comment! I hope this video is helpful for you. I made this based on another viewer's questions in the comments. I was fortunate and all my gauges worked. If you end up having questions, feel free to give me a holler. I hope to see you around, and thanks you for the Sub as well.
Maybe a little off subject but similar.
Most temp gauges lie.
If youve got a mk4 vw ,itll sit on 190 while the actual engine temp is 165-200.
Alot of other cars do that ,theyve done it since the 70s and maybe earlier.
It's literally some psychology coming into play, the brain likes to see a gauge halfway in between its metering points so they set them up to do so.
Good evening, and welcome to the channel. Thank you for the comment. I was not aware of this info about temp sensors, but it makes sense.
@MrTheHillfolk the same goes with my e36 BMW. That's so wonky if you ask me.
Ok this is what I have found after testing. The right post behind the temp gauge reads 12.4 volts, even with the key off. When I read the left side, where the voltage limiter is connected to comes in, it reads between 0-8 volts with the car key on. It reads 0 volts with it off. I also checked the temp sensor wire and it is reading 12.4 as well with the car off. I assume I should not have any power on G2 (Temp sensor wire) with the key off. But the wiring diagram I have looked at ends there. The fuel gauge is not having that issue, power only comes to it when I switch the key on and it is 0-8 volts. Any help from here?
Sorry about the delay. Work is busy as hell right now. You are spot on when you say you should not have 12.4v on your temp sender wire. You should see the same 0-8 volt pulsing signal. I am assuming when you say you checked the wire, you checked it at the connector like I showed checking the black 12v into the PCB. If you have 12v on the wire with the connector disconnected from the PCB, then you have a short to a 12v source somewhere in the wiring harness and you will need to check the wire (G2 - violet wire) back to the sender to find the issue. It runs straight to the sender so you shouldn't have to worry about any splits or junctions. Is your fuel gauge operating normally now or is it still not functioning?
Fuel is not working, so I went to the easiest sensor to get to, which was the temp sensor. I can say that I pulled the harness from the bulkhead disconnect, so nothing is shorting from the engine compartment. so I have to say something is shorting near the back of the cluster. When I pull the voltage limiter out and test, I can say that we have 0 volts. But when I plug it back in we have 12.4 volts again. And no need to apologize for the delay. I don't expect a fast answer, and you have been amazing, so thank you!@@MontsweagGarage
@@MontsweagGarage well I Believe I found the problem. After inspecting under the dash for a good hour I found that the wires are melted together right after they come in the bulk head. This is going to be fun.
@@joefall Where are you located?
@@MontsweagGarage Shelbyville, Indiana
ruclips.net/user/shortsxxSE75fmdV0?si=zRavflsxwXn8Vd9O
I figured I would do a short for you to see what I found. It seems that it only affected three wires, the ground and positive coming in melted together with one third wire.
Oh damn! You're lucky that didn't start a fire. Sorry it took so long to get back to you. This message went into my "waiting for approval" queue, probably because of the link. I'm glad you found the issue. Re-pinning the bulkhead connector shouldn't be too difficult, just a bit tedious. Does the new connector come with new pins or do you need to reuse the old ones?
@@MontsweagGarage is there any way to put a fuse in on that hot wire coming into the bulkhead prior to it coming in from the firewall? I would hate for this to happen again and then I have to either fix the wires again or have a fire that does much more damage.
@@joefall You sure can. O'reilly has them for 4-5 bucks and they just splice in. If you are splicing wires anyway, no reason not to. You'll just need to figure out what size fuse to use for that line.
Here's a link to the one in stock at my local store: www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/blister-pack/littelfuse-blister-pack-fuse-holder/lit3/fhm2bp?q=inline+fuse+holder&pos=0
@@MontsweagGarage so I just rewired the bulk coming in and got the car running again. The gas and temp gauges still not working. I did connect a 6v battery to the fuel gauge and it is responding. And when I turn the car on the needle for the fuel wants to move but then drops.
Could I have burned up the voltage limiter? It is only putting out a max of 5.5v and is more average around 3v. Also can I test the temp gauge the same way I tested the fuel gauge with the 6v battery? I connected it but I had no movement but I'm your video you only test the fuel gauge.
Hope you are doing well and in advance thank you for your help!
Glad to hear you got it up and running. I'd bet that you are right and the voltage limiter is smoked. That or your gauges. I will check my temp gauge next time I get the opportunity. I am currently without power....again, and work is in high gear. I should get a chance this weekend if the snow/rain stops. You are quite welcome for what help I can provide.