Nice video. Glad to see you saving the old girl. If possible I braze cast iron. Little bit more work but makes for a permanent repair. Love your channel!
Just had to replace the same two core plugs (frost plates) in mine so this was good to see. It also explained what the welding repair was for - same freezing issue. Good video, well paced.
In the USA we called those plugs " frost plugs " Another great video which I learned a lot !!! Hopefully, my Massey Ferguson 65 never needs all this attention, but if it does I will know where to look !!! Looking forward to the next inline video, thanks,Ken
In USA a lot of you call them frost plugs and that implies that they were put there to save the head from cracking in frost.In fact they are only there to block the holes left to get out the sand-core (hence core-plugs) which was there to create the hollow voided space for cooling water.The fact that they sometimes get pushed out before or instead of the casting cracking if insufficient antifreeze is used is just a small bonus.Some of you in USA know this and use the correct name---core-plug.
What would be helpful is how to check the cylinder head for any possible distortion and advice on what would pass and what wouldn't before reassembling. Great videos thanks.
A few suggestions...the head should have been blown out after sanding the surface. As soon as you turn it over for installation the debris will fall out on your new head gasket. Also, instead of using a sander to clean out the frost plug holes, a wire brush would be better. It would leave the bore square, whereas the sander will bevel taper it and you have very little edge for the frost plug to grab on to. A spray can of brake cleaner with a wand on it would have allowed you to clean out the cracks after you ground them, allowing the paste to fill it up and would bond maybe a little better. I would have also Magna fluxed the head, and checked it for straight (flatness) before I ever started working on it. Gaskets are not cheap anymore and I sure wouldn't have to do it again. Just my 2 cents worth and that's all its worth. Good luck. :>)
You can weld cast with the proper rods. But all in all not a bad way to salvage an old piece of machinery! As far as a flat, use a single cut mill file
Really enjoyed watching. I use an old stone grinder wheel laid on its side to surface heads. Seems easier to keep perfectly flat and I no longer have to find wood in the garage that doesn't have jack damage on it.
Hi mate, very nice job indeed. If I might suggest, it would have been a good idea to check the valves for leakage and hand grind them in, in order to get good and even compression on all cylinders after reassembly. Most old engines, unused for longer time, tend to have one or several valve seats pittied by corrosion due to some of these valves having been open for a long time. Another observation, if you don´t mind: Before unscrewing the valve rocker shaft, it is recommendable to undo the valve adjusting nuts and by this taking off the load on the open valve rockers. This prevents bending of the shaft when undoing. Older engines like this might not suffer that easily but newer engines, due to having less material, very easily do. Other than this, I´d like to congratulate you for a very good instructional video.
Never had much long term success with these epoxy pastes and putties. You need to check out muggy weld cast iron rods. They have proved to be the most effective and easiest long term repair, in my humble opinion. Does not need any fancy or expensive welding kit. No ties to company,just a satisfied customer.
Don't get me wrong,I seriously want it to work for you. I like to pressure test castings after repair, I have learned the hard way by having leaking castings after repair and assembled. The extra time and another gasket set means money lost on the job. It is not expensive to have the repair done for you. I charge roughly £100 to blast clean,repair and pressure test a head like this. Bit more if you want head stripped and assembled and / or painted.
Andrew Wilson txs Andrew, i like your comments so no issue what so ever. And you are right, the how shall i say. The standard way as you describe it is the better and right way. I just wanted to test. At the end , i might have weld it. If or when it fails. Txs
Those are' core plugs'. They are the holes that enable the hardened sand core to be removed when the head was cast. You will find them quite often in the engine block as well. They do help protect an engine from frost damage sometimes but like this engine not often.
Metal lock service is a non-weld repair. It's been around for many years and make the part good as new. Metal is drilled and wedges are used to secure and seal the water passage. I seen it done many years age, they were our of Buffalo, New York however, I am sure other company's have been stared doing the same service.
these are my first videos..and am impressed with your approach..no nonsense ..calmly walking thru your repair method..and love the farm..look forward to viewing all of your videos..as i can see you have an eclectic approach to life...knowledge and exploration is the key..i subbed..
You should research a repair method called pinning. You drill and tap along the crack and install a plug. You overlap each plug by half. In a pinch I have used 1/8" brass or iron solid pipe plugs. You peen each plug as you go and it seals up nice. Good video
In New Zealand we call them frost plugs ,if you use anti freeze liquid then the frost plugs won't rust out ,consider how long it took the originals to rust out ,cheers
Like your videos Steve. They're quite informative, even though I've done these procedures many times. BTW in USA we call those "Freeze Plugs." ...Newk from Kentucky
i cant speak for loctite brand, the JB weld 24 hour formula is very good indeed and easy to work as its a little thinner to work than the putty (maybe they also make a putty) but is the strongest i have ever used , i used to use devcon, but i have not found an equal to the jbweld original
It is interesting to see the port design on this cylinder head. Usually old agricultural engines have ports that merge inside the cylinder head. That might make the engine cheaper, but it is really weak for performance.
It will be interesting too see how long this repair last. I would have tried to braze these cracks, but the whole head would probably have to be heated. Heating the head and cleaning it up for brazing would have required a full disasembly, so the the epoxy patch was definately a lot less work.
Was the core plug that leaked in the cylinder head, or the block ? It may sound improbable, but you can weld non stressed cast iron parts with a standard MIG welder, I have repaired manifolds with that method many times, just try it, you will be surprised, you can buy a second hand cylinder head from Southern Counties Tractor spares in Sussex.
Just an observation: it appears that the front axle wheel spindles are in need of new bearings at the bottom end. When there is a large gap beneath the steering arms at the top of the spindles (king pins) it indicates worn bearings. They are easily replaced.
I think you called them frost plates. Iv'e seen a frost plate along with the cast iron around it blown out of an old Morris 8 engine. I wedged a tapped bar across the inside and a plate larger than the hole with a gasket and it held for years. In the UK we calle them 'core plugs' they serve 2 purposes. One to hopefully blow when iced up and two to get the sand core out after casting.
I just tried to clear this up elsewhere, the core plugs are where the core was located in either the cope or the drag depending on the complicity of the casting. The core has to be indexed exactly or there will be deficiencies in the casting. The fact that sand is removed through them is helpful but it is not the reason they are there. Location, location, location.
max webster txs Max. This seems to be a topic on many including me had a misunderstanding. At leat i can tell my old teacher that he missed the point on those openings. Txs again
Only one of these is their purpose and the reason they exist (to do with the sand and resin core that shapes the inside of the cooling water galleries).They were never put there as a safety feature against frost-cracking.That just turned out to be a bonus .Sometimes. But they are also a weak point for corrosion ,being thin steel plate in thick cast-iron.
We used to use JB Weld to fix 2.5 Iron Duke Engines... They were notorious for cracking the Block Water Jacket through the center freeze plug.... It lasted longer than the cars did.... LOL PS. We used a Dremel with a Carbide Grout removal bit.... Don't bang the bit around it will break, but it chews through the Iron like butter!
I would have taken apart the head completely and at least checked the valves, seats and guides just because it's a good opportunity to do that.. Citric acid can be used to remove rust residue in cooling channels.
Personally a more liquid product like jb weld will flow into the small imperfections much better in my opinion. Also there are very good cast iron soldering rods available now for this type of repair. I don't like to grind with springs and parts in the head as you will never get all the tiny metal shavings out of the cavity and in and around the springs and seals.
HIIiii Steve (younger then me yes !) This is a PERKINS engine ....? I think so ! For the engine bloc I would metal lock it making (on the lathe) cast-iron plugs using the special paste or "LOCK-TITE" For the head I would of tried brazing (welding torch Oxy-Acet.) Rocker gasket
Went off alone sorry !!! type of cork (put in slightly warm water ....Copper washers (injectors --) red hot and throw them in cold water to make the copper soft ! N.B.: I hope you do reed the comments...? And answer some ...?
n the injector side of the cylinder head I would do the same as if it was the engine block !!! Gasket (cylinder head linseed oil warm +) 2 to 3 minute !!
Way back I worked on a sewer bridge in the East of London which carried sewage from most of London, the bridge was bombed in WWII and swiftly repaired with tunnel segments IE bolts on the inside flanges, this impaired the flow. So we replaced each of the 5 tubes in turn with sewer cast iron segments, they have flanges and bolts on the outside. Each inside joint had a caulking groove, the groove was filled with iron grindings and some sort of ammonia ???? The mixture set like iron and passed the 1 year guarantee period no problem.
Very nice vidéo, but just one thing. Never hit a hammer with another hammer. It's steel and it could break and a shine it's very dangerous. A friend lost an eye making this mistake. Take a bronze throw for place the frost plate
Yes I taught never hit a hammer with a hammer as they can shatter and splinter. As you suggest always use a hammer and drift. Long time ago I saw a guy repairing heads and blocks by stitch drilling and laying in metal, cant quite remember what next but think he tapped it in.
Really, that is strange... but its a good tip... I will consider it for the next video's. That is the kind of comments I really appreciate, so that I can correct things
I love the content, thank you very much. I do have a question though, if you are going through all the time and expense to make the repair, why wouldn't you pull the valves and give them an inspection? Doesn't cost you any Euro's and could end up saving you a problem that could surface in short order. Again, thank you for sharing, I do love it.
Great channel- very informative and easy to understand even for someone like me who has zero experience in mechanic work ! One question- What do you mean by "the crack is on the cooling side and so there is not a lot of pressure" ? Is there another area in the water cooling system that would typically have higher pressure ? Thanks.
Thank you very much! What I meant was that the cooling system is low pressure in fact almost zero. if the crack was near de cylinders or valves seats.... then that would not work due to the compresion
@@D3Sshooter I'm all for experimentation, but I'm even more for doing what's known to work the first time. Especially when there are already plenty of people who have tested these epoxies and found them wanting. You would only have to braze those cracks once, and when I'm repairing something, I'm a "one and done" kind of guy. I only want to have to do any given repair once. Anything more is just wasting time and money to me, no offence intended. Then again, I'm a welder/fabricator by trade and a Veteran, so that's pretty inherent. I'm probably the only guy you'll ever meet who'll tear down a brand new bench-vise just to make sure it's 100% squared-away, deburred and greased up. I'm all about efficiency, as well, and testing ways that are known not to work instead of going with what is known to work is kind of backwards. With RUclips being what it is, and with at least 100 'Tubers who have already undertaken this experiment and found Epoxy products to be entirely insufficient unless you're fixing something made of wood, it's really not necessary to do it again. 2-part wet (clear) epoxies are great for things like broken guitar headstocks, cracked guitar bodies and infusing it into nice looking pieces of wood that might be too far gone, structurally speaking. For fixing metal, just grab yourself a brazing torch or welder. Dry "paste-type" kneading epoxy, I have found, is absolutely useless for anything but half-assing a repair. If I have a piece of steel with defects or cracking in it, I'm gonna weld it, and if I ever have problems involving cast-iron, I just break out the brazing torch and some Silicon Bronze filler, which works wonders on cast items, as well as joining dissimilar metals.
@@MFKR696 TXS, and yes you are right... But like a stated, I just wanted to see for myself... I am hardheaded :) :) ... No offence at all... That is why we have conversations....
I enjoyed watching your disciplined diagnosis and PMRM. The Welch Plug was patented in Pontiac Michigan USA c1900s. I hope to see Part 2 RUclips despite many disappointments. What is your application for those tyres? 05OCT2018
Cracks are happening due to stress within the material, the crack will build grow through the weakest area's. a bit like water finds its way. drilling a whole at the end of a crack is a stress relief point
fyi.... welding cast iron not such a big deal with arc welder, right settings, and a little method practice. main idea is small sections at a time with cooling time between.
guesswhotoo6 , txs and great tips. If i will have to weld it, i will place in the BBQ and slowly heath it up (Oklahoma Smoker). Weld and let it cool down by slowly lowering the temperature in the bbq. Using a gas burner in the fire compartment
Txs , and yes you are absolutely right. I wanted to test the product and do it as a test in another way. Will it last ? Who knows, so far it does and over 40 running hours, so see that patchwork more as a test. If t fails, it will be redone the good old way
@@D3Sshooter hi just to let you know I try JB weld industrial on a Ford 380 6 cylinder diesel by a core plug as time was of the essence and 3 years on still no leak bearing in mind it was driving a water pump so fresh water constantly flowing engine never really gets hot for (sprinkler system)
That loctite is Epoxy paste and I have a lot of experience using that product I am sad to tell you that it is very little chance that it will hold long term. The best solution would be aluminum welding braze sticks which with proper brazing torch would have done much better job...
Thanks Getreal for your very useful comments. As I have mentioned before, the use of Locite was and is a test. So far , it holds and the tractor has been running about 40 Hours. So far no issue. But as you state , how long will the Locite last is yet an open question. Time will tell, and note that I do not or would not sell a tractor with this type of fix.
Would Chemical metal also work too ? I have a crack in the same spot and the old repair made god knows when is starting to flake off, We don't have the loctite you used in Finland
I would not know, I tried loctite as a test and it still holds up. The best thing is to get it welded but be very carefull as you need to heath up the block first and then weld , allowing to cool down very slowely... else it will crack/
@@D3Sshooter ok thanks for that I'll try that paste or chemical metal which after reading is pretty much the same, I had 4 valves completely stuck so I think I found my compression problem :) now redone only the crack left and new oil and she should start
TXS for the comments indeed that mould have been an option, but i wanted to check the locate out and it worked m even after using the tractor for many hours
Mercmad txs. In Belgium /Europe there are no new heads available since 2 years. maybe i should visit your beautiful country. Australia. And pick one up while there.
If this plug is straight cup, then it goes bottom part facing inwards. If it is like a dome, then also convex side should go inwards. Because it works kinda like a spring.
Thanks for the comment, yes indeed and as i stated. I just wanted to check this out. Now we are 2 years later and still running. About 75 hours since that day
Well hopefully you didn't use that party you would be better off using what these called JB Weld it's much better and you can actually fix cylinders with it and run Pistons through that
I repaired a badly damaged Mercedes OM 606 engine with JB weld in the bore (!) . it had swallowed a bolt after some idiot had sabotaged the engine . The broken piston and con rod scored the bore really deeply. I put JB into the crack then used a piston ring to make it the same shape as the bore wall. I thought I should hone the bore just to make sure everything was OK, but the bore Material was softer than the JB weld once it cured. As far as I know it's still running ten years later.
@Peter Lee hi, im beginning to think i may be wrongb on this. Googgle images show them with a diagram for installation. The domes point outward so the flat edges can seat in the casting. This bloke appeared to bash them in and destroy the dome shape,(should have used a socket to knock em in).
the "MF 35 " was sold everywhere with an english engine "perking" 3 cyl "AD3 152". in france, it was sold with a 4 cyl "standard hotchkiss 23C." french engine...
txs for the comments, that is indeed what all smart people would do... I fully agree. I wanted to test this , and guess what ... after all that time it still holds and works like a champ. ( + 200 hours)... So lets see how much longer it will work...
Nice video. Glad to see you saving the old girl. If possible I braze cast iron. Little bit more work but makes for a permanent repair. Love your channel!
Txs , indeed.. I just wanted to try this loctite, and see if its going to last
Very nice to see this getting repaired! You are a good craftsman to take this time to salvage the head.
Thanks fo r the nice comments
Yes use that fix with the paste before on bits that had rusted on trucks to get me out of trouble it worked well
Thanks for the comments
Just had to replace the same two core plugs (frost plates) in mine so this was good to see. It also explained what the welding repair was for - same freezing issue. Good video, well paced.
Glad it helped
In the USA we called those plugs " frost plugs " Another great video which I learned a lot !!! Hopefully, my Massey Ferguson 65 never needs all this attention, but if it does I will know where to look !!! Looking forward to the next inline video, thanks,Ken
In USA a lot of you call them frost plugs and that implies that they were put there to save the head from cracking in frost.In fact they are only there to block the holes left to get out the sand-core (hence core-plugs) which was there to create the hollow voided space for cooling water.The fact that they sometimes get pushed out before or instead of the casting cracking if insufficient antifreeze is used is just a small bonus.Some of you in USA know this and use the correct name---core-plug.
@@ianrutherford878 This type of core plug is called a "Welch plug"...
What would be helpful is how to check the cylinder head for any possible distortion and advice on what would pass and what wouldn't before reassembling. Great videos thanks.
A few suggestions...the head should have been blown out after sanding the surface. As soon as you turn it over for installation the debris will fall out on your new head gasket. Also, instead of using a sander to clean out the frost plug holes, a wire brush would be better. It would leave the bore square, whereas the sander will bevel taper it and you have very little edge for the frost plug to grab on to. A spray can of brake cleaner with a wand on it would have allowed you to clean out the cracks after you ground them, allowing the paste to fill it up and would bond maybe a little better. I would have also Magna fluxed the head, and checked it for straight (flatness) before I ever started working on it. Gaskets are not cheap anymore and I sure wouldn't have to do it again. Just my 2 cents worth and that's all its worth. Good luck. :>)
txs for the comment, great write up and usefull advice... thanks again
I was pleased to see you drilled stop crack holes. This step is often overlooked and it's very important.
phlodel thanks fir the comments
You were lucky the petrol tank was not leaking at the front lockdown bracket:) Great show mate
Thanks for the comments
Good work. You can’t beat old school stuff that can be repaired without the need for a laptop. 👍👍
an04ker , indeed and txs for the comments
You can weld cast with the proper rods. But all in all not a bad way to salvage an old piece of machinery!
As far as a flat, use a single cut mill file
Thanks for the comments
Really enjoyed watching. I use an old stone grinder wheel laid on its side to surface heads. Seems easier to keep perfectly flat and I no longer have to find wood in the garage that doesn't have jack damage on it.
Txs for the comments and a great tip
Hi mate, very nice job indeed. If I might suggest, it would have been a good idea to check the valves for leakage and hand grind them in, in order to get good and even compression on all cylinders after reassembly. Most old engines, unused for longer time, tend to have one or several valve seats pittied by corrosion due to some of these valves having been open for a long time. Another observation, if you don´t mind: Before unscrewing the valve rocker shaft, it is recommendable to undo the valve adjusting nuts and by this taking off the load on the open valve rockers. This prevents bending of the shaft when undoing. Older engines like this might not suffer that easily but newer engines, due to having less material, very easily do. Other than this, I´d like to congratulate you for a very good instructional video.
Thanks for the comments and tips Andreas, those are very good points ...
Never had much long term success with these epoxy pastes and putties. You need to check out muggy weld cast iron rods. They have proved to be the most effective and easiest long term repair, in my humble opinion. Does not need any fancy or expensive welding kit. No ties to company,just a satisfied customer.
Andrew Wilson txs. So far 40 hours no issue. But that is not along time
Don't get me wrong,I seriously want it to work for you. I like to pressure test castings after repair, I have learned the hard way by having leaking castings after repair and assembled. The extra time and another gasket set means money lost on the job.
It is not expensive to have the repair done for you. I charge roughly £100 to blast clean,repair and pressure test a head like this. Bit more if you want head stripped and assembled and / or painted.
Andrew Wilson txs Andrew, i like your comments so no issue what so ever. And you are right, the how shall i say. The standard way as you describe it is the better and right way. I just wanted to test. At the end , i might have weld it. If or when it fails. Txs
Great video thank you I’m an old farmer and it takes me back to those days on the farm
Thanks for the comments... great times
Those are' core plugs'. They are the holes that enable the hardened sand core to be removed when the head was cast. You will find them quite often in the engine block as well. They do help protect an engine from frost damage sometimes but like this engine not often.
Thanks for the comments, indeed
This work is what I live for ! thanks again Sir
No need to have music while you are talking. Thanks for the video.
caahacky txs fir the tip
My father had a copy of 35, it had three cylinders. Love the videos
Desmos Dromos txs
Just found this channel and I love it - It reminds me of my Dad who used to fix up and repair old tractors - Subscribed
Txt for the comments
Metal lock service is a non-weld repair. It's been around for many years and make the part good as new. Metal is drilled and wedges are used to secure and seal the water passage. I seen it done many years age, they were our of Buffalo, New York however, I am sure other company's have been stared doing the same service.
Txs for the great comments and time to explain..
these are my first videos..and am impressed with your approach..no nonsense ..calmly walking thru your repair method..and love the farm..look forward to viewing all of your videos..as i can see you have an eclectic approach to life...knowledge and exploration is the key..i subbed..
iamrichrocker thank you and i hope you will enjoy it
You should research a repair method called pinning. You drill and tap along the crack and install a plug. You overlap each plug by half. In a pinch I have used 1/8" brass or iron solid pipe plugs. You peen each plug as you go and it seals up nice. Good video
Thanks for the comments, great tips and advice. Thank you... I wanted to test this product out as I did, and meanwhile its been running just fine
Frost plates can also be known as welsh plugs. It is best to replace them on a re build with brass or stainless steel iron ones can rust!
Indeed, thanks
In New Zealand we call them frost plugs ,if you use anti freeze liquid then the frost plugs won't rust out ,consider how long it took the originals to rust out ,cheers
Like your videos Steve. They're quite informative, even though I've done these procedures many times. BTW in USA we call those "Freeze Plugs." ...Newk from Kentucky
Thanks for the comments Timothy, and great to read Freeze plug, that is also how we translate it in dutch Fries plaat...
@@D3Sshooter They aren't really about freezing. They are for removing the sand cores after casting.
Thank you sir. Very nice restoration.
Many thanks!
i cant speak for loctite brand, the JB weld 24 hour formula is very good indeed and easy to work as its a little thinner to work than the putty (maybe they also make a putty) but is the strongest i have ever used , i used to use devcon, but i have not found an equal to the jbweld original
TXS, will see over time if its lasts
Superb video, congratulations!
Thank you! Cheers!
The engine in the 4 cylinder fergies is a standard motor company engine, they were also used in vans cars and light lorries.
Thanks for the comments
It is interesting to see the port design on this cylinder head. Usually old agricultural engines have ports that merge inside the cylinder head. That might make the engine cheaper, but it is really weak for performance.
Interesting!
It will be interesting too see how long this repair last. I would have tried to braze these cracks, but the whole head would probably have to be heated. Heating the head and cleaning it up for brazing would have required a full disasembly, so the the epoxy patch was definately a lot less work.
Indeed, that is also why I tried this, so far 40 Hours and no issues. But will it last ? That is the question... TXS for the comments
Belzona has a product that works really well for fixing cracks and gaps as well. Belzona is kinda pricey though...
Thanks for the comments, will need to check that out txs
Was the core plug that leaked in the cylinder head, or the block ? It may sound improbable, but you can weld non stressed cast iron parts with a standard MIG welder, I have repaired manifolds with that method many times, just try it, you will be surprised, you can buy a second hand cylinder head from Southern Counties Tractor spares in Sussex.
Leaking to the outside that is why i could fix it like I did
Just an observation: it appears that the front axle wheel spindles are in need of new bearings at the bottom end. When there is a large gap beneath the steering arms at the top of the spindles (king pins) it indicates worn bearings. They are easily replaced.
Doug Bourdo , txs. And yes indeed they also need replacing
I think you called them frost plates. Iv'e seen a frost plate along with the cast iron around it blown out of an old Morris 8 engine. I wedged a tapped bar across the inside and a plate larger than the hole with a gasket and it held for years. In the UK we calle them 'core plugs' they serve 2 purposes. One to hopefully blow when iced up and two to get the sand core out after casting.
jp , txs for the comments and your explanation. And i learned some new words.
also the valve shaft we call 'rocker shaft' and the rockers operate the valves!
I just tried to clear this up elsewhere, the core plugs are where the core was located in either the cope or the drag depending on the complicity of the casting. The core has to be indexed exactly or there will be deficiencies in the casting. The fact that sand is removed through them is helpful but it is not the reason they are there. Location, location, location.
max webster txs Max. This seems to be a topic on many including me had a misunderstanding. At leat i can tell my old teacher that he missed the point on those openings. Txs again
Only one of these is their purpose and the reason they exist (to do with the sand and resin core that shapes the inside of the cooling water galleries).They were never put there as a safety feature against frost-cracking.That just turned out to be a bonus .Sometimes. But they are also a weak point for corrosion ,being thin steel plate in thick cast-iron.
Thank you for this continuation video.
My pleasure
fair play for fixing, did your fix work 3 years on
It sure did and still does
I like this tutorial format, very informative thanks a lot!
TXS for vewing and the comments
We used to use JB Weld to fix 2.5 Iron Duke Engines... They were notorious for cracking the Block Water Jacket through the center freeze plug.... It lasted longer than the cars did.... LOL PS. We used a Dremel with a Carbide Grout removal bit.... Don't bang the bit around it will break, but it chews through the Iron like butter!
Txs for the comment, interesting
That's a perfect job for JB Weld.
Thanks for the comments, and indeed
i HAVE ONE OF THESE ENGINES IN MY BOAT. A GREAT PIECE OF MACHINERY
Thanks for the comments
Just started watching a lot of your videos keep up the good work 👍just one question can you braze the crack in the cylinder head ?
This was a test to see if worked and it still holds, as far as I am aware you cannot braze Cast iron...
I would have taken apart the head completely and at least checked the valves, seats and guides just because it's a good opportunity to do that.. Citric acid can be used to remove rust residue in cooling channels.
Good points, txs
Personally a more liquid product like jb weld will flow into the small imperfections much better in my opinion. Also there are very good cast iron soldering rods available now for this type of repair. I don't like to grind with springs and parts in the head as you will never get all the tiny metal shavings out of the cavity and in and around the springs and seals.
Thanks for the comments... Indeed, but as I stated " I wanted to try this out" and so far 2 years in use with no issues
HIIiii Steve (younger then me yes !) This is a PERKINS engine ....? I think so ! For the engine bloc I would metal lock it making (on the lathe) cast-iron plugs using the special paste or "LOCK-TITE" For the head I would of tried brazing (welding torch Oxy-Acet.) Rocker gasket
Went off alone sorry !!! type of cork (put in slightly warm water ....Copper washers (injectors --) red hot and throw them in cold water to make the copper soft ! N.B.: I hope you do reed the comments...? And answer some ...?
n the injector side of the cylinder head I would do the same as if it was the engine block !!! Gasket (cylinder head linseed oil warm +) 2 to 3 minute !!
Thanks for the comments, and its a BL block. So far it has been holding up for over one year. This was a test
I do read them Marcel, however I have so many comments that it takes some time to go through
In the old days when frozen mixed up k w sealer and powdered iron a paste
Way back I worked on a sewer bridge in the East of London which carried sewage from most of London, the bridge was bombed in WWII and swiftly repaired with tunnel segments IE bolts on the inside flanges, this impaired the flow. So we replaced each of the 5 tubes in turn with sewer cast iron segments, they have flanges and bolts on the outside. Each inside joint had a caulking groove, the groove was filled with iron grindings and some sort of ammonia ???? The mixture set like iron and passed the 1 year guarantee period no problem.
You are brave spending hours on that head. It looks like scrap to me.
Thanks for the comment, i wanted to try it. It was a test and it still runs after two years
@@D3Sshooter Oh well I suppose it was worth it then. I just hate band-aiding engines if I can avoid it, but sometimes one has no choice I suppose.
Very nice vidéo, but just one thing. Never hit a hammer with another hammer. It's steel and it could break and a shine it's very dangerous. A friend lost an eye making this mistake. Take a bronze throw for place the frost plate
Thanks for the tip
Yes I taught never hit a hammer with a hammer as they can shatter and splinter. As you suggest always use a hammer and drift.
Long time ago I saw a guy repairing heads and blocks by stitch drilling and laying in metal, cant quite remember what next but think he tapped it in.
The head is a Lock-n-stitch candidate
TXS for the comment, so far it has been holding, the question is how long
It' will crack in a matter of days. This thing is for temporary repairs only.
Brazing would be the right fix for this.
It might and if it does then we will do a weld job, remember this was a test and so far it just worked. TXS for he comments
Pure knowledge.
Thanks for the comments
Great video. Please forget the Music. Thanks. You are Special.
Thank you, I will
Great video, however, the music is so loud I have a hard time hearing what you are saying. Please reduce the music volume. Thanks.
Really, that is strange... but its a good tip... I will consider it for the next video's. That is the kind of comments I really appreciate, so that I can correct things
Well thats better than buying a new CH
Thanks for the comments
I love the content, thank you very much. I do have a question though, if you are going through all the time and expense to make the repair, why wouldn't you pull the valves and give them an inspection? Doesn't cost you any Euro's and could end up saving you a problem that could surface in short order. Again, thank you for sharing, I do love it.
Yes, that is a good point... I did , but did not make a video on it...
Hello, great video, do you add a layer of resin on the loctite ea 3463 that you have spread? Thank you
Thank you for the comments, No i did not.... This was a test and since that day I have over 150 hours on the tractor without and issue
@@D3Sshooter ok thanks for the information
Never heard core plugs called anti frost plates before
Thanks for the comments , that is what they call them in Vlaanderen... wrong but we do lol
Dye or mag-flux can show the cracks.
TXS for the tip and comments...
I still shoot my old D3S too. Bought new in 2008, still as good as D4 D5.
Steve Allen yep
Me to
Im growing with YUGOSLAVIA copi of MF and i hawe today 1 mf 35 and 3 copi
Great machine OLD GREY FERGIE😁😁😁 und all copi this
That is great, I am sure that you enjoy your fergy
@@D3Sshooter om making 1000 engine hours everi year
I agree that no music is necessary.
belta bro
Great channel- very informative and easy to understand even for someone like me who has zero experience in mechanic work ! One question- What do you mean by "the crack is on the cooling side and so there is not a lot of pressure" ? Is there another area in the water cooling system that would typically have higher pressure ? Thanks.
Thank you very much! What I meant was that the cooling system is low pressure in fact almost zero. if the crack was near de cylinders or valves seats.... then that would not work due to the compresion
@@D3Sshooter Thanks for your explanation !
Just an update I ended up using JB weld So will see next week if it holds up >:)
Great, keep us posted. Mine is still holding up very well
You should have used brazing for those crack repairs. Using epoxy to fix a cracked head is like putting a band-aid on a crushed-femur.
TXS, yes i know... Still wanted to test it. And its still holding after 56 hours of running. Lets see how long... But you are right
@@D3Sshooter I'm all for experimentation, but I'm even more for doing what's known to work the first time. Especially when there are already plenty of people who have tested these epoxies and found them wanting. You would only have to braze those cracks once, and when I'm repairing something, I'm a "one and done" kind of guy. I only want to have to do any given repair once. Anything more is just wasting time and money to me, no offence intended.
Then again, I'm a welder/fabricator by trade and a Veteran, so that's pretty inherent. I'm probably the only guy you'll ever meet who'll tear down a brand new bench-vise just to make sure it's 100% squared-away, deburred and greased up. I'm all about efficiency, as well, and testing ways that are known not to work instead of going with what is known to work is kind of backwards.
With RUclips being what it is, and with at least 100 'Tubers who have already undertaken this experiment and found Epoxy products to be entirely insufficient unless you're fixing something made of wood, it's really not necessary to do it again. 2-part wet (clear) epoxies are great for things like broken guitar headstocks, cracked guitar bodies and infusing it into nice looking pieces of wood that might be too far gone, structurally speaking. For fixing metal, just grab yourself a brazing torch or welder. Dry "paste-type" kneading epoxy, I have found, is absolutely useless for anything but half-assing a repair.
If I have a piece of steel with defects or cracking in it, I'm gonna weld it, and if I ever have problems involving cast-iron, I just break out the brazing torch and some Silicon Bronze filler, which works wonders on cast items, as well as joining dissimilar metals.
@@MFKR696 TXS, and yes you are right... But like a stated, I just wanted to see for myself... I am hardheaded :) :) ... No offence at all... That is why we have conversations....
@@D3Sshooter Fair enough.
Hi how did the repair go, is it still going 2 years later?
Yep , still running.... no issue so far... I am surprised
@@D3Sshooter Wow absolutely brilliant work ,well done :)
I enjoyed watching your disciplined diagnosis and PMRM. The Welch Plug was patented in Pontiac Michigan USA c1900s. I hope to see Part 2 RUclips despite many disappointments. What is your application for those tyres? 05OCT2018
Great informative video, when will the rest of the restoration be uploaded ?
Its all on my youtube channel.... TXS D3SSHOOTER
Cleaning
How does drilling the holes prevent further cracking?
Cracks are happening due to stress within the material, the crack will build grow through the weakest area's. a bit like water finds its way. drilling a whole at the end of a crack is a stress relief point
fyi.... welding cast iron not such a big deal with arc welder, right settings, and a little method practice. main idea is small sections at a time with cooling time between.
guesswhotoo6 , txs and great tips. If i will have to weld it, i will place in the BBQ and slowly heath it up (Oklahoma Smoker). Weld and let it cool down by slowly lowering the temperature in the bbq. Using a gas burner in the fire compartment
I like to TIG weld cast iron using nickel rod. It's expensive but welds very nicely. A little pre heat and slow cooling is in order.
phlodel txs and another great tip
Why didn't you stitched the cylinder head the old fashioned way much better repair and will stand the test of time never had one leak yet
Txs , and yes you are absolutely right. I wanted to test the product and do it as a test in another way. Will it last ? Who knows, so far it does and over 40 running hours, so see that patchwork more as a test. If t fails, it will be redone the good old way
@@D3Sshooter hi just to let you know I try JB weld industrial on a Ford 380 6 cylinder diesel by a core plug as time was of the essence and 3 years on still no leak bearing in mind it was driving a water pump so fresh water constantly flowing engine never really gets hot for (sprinkler system)
That loctite is Epoxy paste and I have a lot of experience using that product I am sad to tell you that it is very little chance that it will hold long term. The best solution would be aluminum welding braze sticks which with proper brazing torch would have done much better job...
Thanks Getreal for your very useful comments. As I have mentioned before, the use of Locite was and is a test. So far , it holds and the tractor has been running about 40 Hours. So far no issue. But as you state , how long will the Locite last is yet an open question. Time will tell, and note that I do not or would not sell a tractor with this type of fix.
Would Chemical metal also work too ? I have a crack in the same spot and the old repair made god knows when is starting to flake off, We don't have the loctite you used in Finland
I would not know, I tried loctite as a test and it still holds up. The best thing is to get it welded but be very carefull as you need to heath up the block first and then weld , allowing to cool down very slowely... else it will crack/
@@D3Sshooter ok thanks for that I'll try that paste or chemical metal which after reading is pretty much the same, I had 4 valves completely stuck so I think I found my compression problem :) now redone only the crack left and new oil and she should start
I would have tried welding up those cracks with Oerlikon SuperFonte NI welding rods rather than using a filler which all that cold metal repairs are.
TXS for the comments indeed that mould have been an option, but i wanted to check the locate out and it worked m even after using the tractor for many hours
I dont which country you are in but heads and other parts are easy to find here in Australia . 😂
Mercmad txs. In Belgium /Europe there are no new heads available since 2 years. maybe i should visit your beautiful country. Australia. And pick one up while there.
Hi mate I want to know that which degreasing liquid you use .
I use isopropanol, its a alcohol that you can get at the local pharmacy.
@@D3Sshooter thanks buddy.
I believe you had put thease frost plugs up-side down.
vestaxrc4 I dont think so. It might be in the video just to see if they fit. But would need to check. Txs
If this plug is straight cup, then it goes bottom part facing inwards. If it is like a dome, then also convex side should go inwards. Because it works kinda like a spring.
D3Sshooter
You put them in correctly. Your explanation is right on.
@@phlodelgreed!!
That's AGREED!
Where the connection is for the temperature clock.
Dragan Stanojevic that is on the part that is removed from the fromt as i needed to rinse the channels. Goood catch
I think you could have brazed it too
Thanks for the comments, indeed. but i wanted to test this loctide
great how to video, what is the small tool used to cut the v for the Loctite material?
TXS for the comments, we call it a Dremel, it driven by an electrical motor with flex cable.... Used for all kind of small work.
How is the engine holding up??
Thanks for the comments, and so far , almost two years still running fine.. Done about 100Hr
Bad practice knocking 2 hammers together a danger of splinters as a work mate found to his cost of an eye
Yes , indeed... you are right...
Did it last?
What's your dog's name?
Thanks for the comments, fleur like flower
Fantastic 👍🏻
TXS for the comments
that is like putting a band aid on a scratch worst cast iron repair i have ever seen. ( retired mechanic ).
Thanks for the comment, yes indeed and as i stated. I just wanted to check this out. Now we are 2 years later and still running. About 75 hours since that day
Well hopefully you didn't use that party you would be better off using what these called JB Weld it's much better and you can actually fix cylinders with it and run Pistons through that
TXS , I will need to look that up... good tip and much appreciated. So far the Loctide is holding , 40 plus hours of running
This product and JB Weld are the exact same material, just different manufacturers.
I repaired a badly damaged Mercedes OM 606 engine with JB weld in the bore (!) . it had swallowed a bolt after some idiot had sabotaged the engine . The broken piston and con rod scored the bore really deeply. I put JB into the crack then used a piston ring to make it the same shape as the bore wall. I thought I should hone the bore just to make sure everything was OK, but the bore Material was softer than the JB weld once it cured. As far as I know it's still running ten years later.
Mercmad very interesting to read. So there is hope it will last on the mf. Txs
Other methods might be theoretically better but if a repair works well and lasts long enough, it was good enough.
I think you put the core plugs in the wrong way round,(frost plates) dome side should goinside so it springs back to form a seal.
Thanks for the comments , I don't think so... they are in like that were,
Surely they would have popped when the head got frozen and cracked? Strange.
Maybe the cracks were caused by metal fatigue or poor casting?
@Peter Lee hi, im beginning to think i may be wrongb on this. Googgle images show them with a diagram for installation. The domes point outward so the flat edges can seat in the casting. This bloke appeared to bash them in and destroy the dome shape,(should have used a socket to knock em in).
so? does it work?
Perfect so far, I hope it will last a long time. But we will see
Old tractor part you will faind in Norway for chip prise.
Thanks for the reply, I will need to check that out . Great tip
👍👍👍
matias lorenzo txs
it’s not good to repair a broken head when it’s reach temperature it will open
Thanks for the comments, as I stated before this was something I wanted to test, and so far it is running 2 years without an issue
Where i can get parts from this engine?
steinertractorparts
this engine was french , made by 'hotchkiss. old brant of french cars...
the "MF 35 " was sold everywhere with an english engine "perking" 3 cyl "AD3 152". in france, it was sold with a 4 cyl "standard hotchkiss 23C." french engine...
Cold weld a crack in the water jacket ? LMAO !! WHAT A HACK ! Braze it for heavens sakes !
txs for the comments, that is indeed what all smart people would do... I fully agree. I wanted to test this , and guess what ... after all that time it still holds and works like a champ. ( + 200 hours)... So lets see how much longer it will work...
Great video, but there's sometimes an annoying background noise., sounds a bit like a dog panting into the mic!
Yep, you are right . Its my old dog who has breathing problems,,,, sorry will make sure he is in the house next time... Txs
@@D3Sshooter Got to have an old buddy in the garage with you......good company!
you should have used brass freeze plugs
Cummins 2.8/3.8 isf project
frost plugs!
Hi, that is what we call them in flemish. But I know that these are from casting
Dat doe je toch niet met zoiets als gun gum man,,,
Het is een test, en tot nu toe werkt dat .. ben eens benieuwd hoelang