The way I learned to cut in paint was on inside corners because it doesn't matter if the paint goes on the other side. It's also a good way to warm up when you haven't painted in a while. I always keep a clean damp rag in my pocket to quickly wipe off any paint I get where I don't want it. I'm too cheap to use tape and have had too many bad experiences with it pulling off the paint. I'm hoping your next video is how to fix the paint after.
The few high end painters my family has hired in the past did not use tape either. They painted a whole kitchen around cupboards and everything in like 6 hours. Maybe ten years ago. Still looks amazing to this day. Was so impressed the quickness they had. Hardly a word spoken between the two of them. Just solid
@@uberempty We hired a painter and he didn't use tape. He also said if you see a painter with paint on their clothes they don't know what they are doing. He was clean after painting our whole inside.
I only have one thing to add here. Tape good. Overcutting, tape bleed, wrong tape, all those things bad. I use tape all of the time. The real trick is......"Use the tape as a 'Guide' not a 'Crutch'." Tape it to save you, but cut it into the tape as if it isn't taped. Minimal bleed, minimal buildup, minimal pull up.
Ben, you are absolutely correct when you said that cutting-in door moldings and baseboards takes the most practice. I own a professional painting business and use the least amount of tape necessary on my jobs. It just takes years of practice and steady nerves to learn how to cut-in and it becomes second nature after a while.
Nice to see good detail when explaining things. Even the “simple” projects can go a thousand times smoother with proper technique and knowledge. I do a ton of painting/taping for my job. Clean surface is always a must. Damp rags. When applying my tape I always press down along trim boatds with a putty knife or the backside of my utility blade. Always relate the time I pull my tape to about the same as when you would knockdown some wall texture. Dry’ish. But obviously not too dry! And I always score it, just in case. Prevention is always a good idea imo!!
Another solution is to not paint over the tape on the first coat. Stay shy 1/8-1/4". If you feel the need because of colour, dry brush it towards the tape. Second coat, go over the tape. Pull the tape when you still have a wet edge.
I painted my living room and have lots of moldings and trim to paint around, including a chair molding about 28 inches above the baseboard. I have found that using tape is asking for trouble, especially when its hot inside the room you are painting. I like to use masking paper by 3M. it comes in different widths, and it has a tacky strip on the edge that you use to attach it. I had no problems with bleed, or lifting the paint when pulling the masking paper off the trim. I have also seen a trick painters use with masking tape. Before applying to a surface, they will tamp the sticky side of the tape to their pants or shirt to relieve some of the stickiness of the tape. This way its less prone to pull off fresh paint upon removal.
I don't use a lot of tape, but on the rare occasion that I do, this works well: pull the tape as soon as you're done painting the run. Don't let the paint dry on the tape before you pull it. Also- don't rely on the tape so much. Use it as a guide to get close, but don't slop all over it.
I used to think I had to pull the tape while it was still wet. But, after speaking with some more experienced painters than I, they told me that tape technology has gotten so much better these past few years. And, that yellow frog tape can be left on the baseboards overnight and pulled the next day. I tested it out and they were right! Has to be the right tape tho. Purple scotch works good too. Having to pull the tape while it's wet never made sense to me because if you're doing two coats, you have to tape the baseboards twice. Which obviously is a massive waste of tape and $$$.
@@justinranderson just saying what works for me. Like I said, I don't use tape much. Been painting 40 years, pretty much the only thing I use tape for is painting stripes on walls. Don't really need it for anything else except maybe keeping paint off adjacent casings in tight corners.
As you said at the end. There is an order of operation that you explained perfectly. I do walls last and only tape the base to prevent sprinkles or splatter from pro mar 200 mostly. Great video! This coming from an actual pro painter.
Another great video. I always use Sherwin Williams paint & primer. I make sure I get a can of primer only. I tape from the top/down of the project. I still haven't graduated from 1.5 in. Tape. To prevent tearing I add mineral spirit to the first coat of paint in the roller pan.
That reminds me of the time when we teenagers. My friend painted the bathroom for his mother, semi-gloss latex over semi-gloss alkyd, no prep. After his mother took a shower for the first time, she noticed a little peeling around the light switch. When she pulled it she got about 90% of the paint off the bathroom in one big rubbery piece. 40 years later and i still tease him about that.
This actually happens to me a lot more than I wish. I even use tape when I have to caulk trim. My trick so far is like you said make sure there isn't too much build up on the tape and i remove the tape before the paint fully dries. Not sure if that's a good idea but i think it works pretty good.
⚠️ 1. Use high quality tape. 2. Clean surface before applying tape. 3. Apply tape properly by pressing on it firmly. This helps to avoid paint getting under the tape. 4. Remove tape before the paint is dry. This prevents pulling the new paint off near the edge of the tape. Also prevents paint bleeding through tape.
You should try any low tack tape and a very thin bead of caulk over the tape along cutting in line and paint while caulk is still wet pull tape off while paint is still wet works awesome. I do this when customers don’t want skirtings painted and it’s never failed me you’ll get super straight lines, no paint will seep underneath and because it’s low tack no paint peeling unless the paint hasn’t adhered properly
1. Frog tape. 2. Press firmly 3. Remove before the paint dries. Make sure the surface you tape on has been completely cured. If not it will come off with the paint. This is overlooked often when taping on caulk.
You never leave tape , especially if paint is quite sticky, 1st coat go without tape and get paint as close as you can than on 2nd coat you go with tape , do 2 meters of corner and remove paint right away, paint won t have time to leak under tape and you will have nice straight line, and this goes especially if you work with black, antracite or any other paint that is high in terms of contrast, don use latex color , use semi gloss or non gloss collor which is better...practice and experince is all
My 2 cents, especially if you are doing your own house and not a job where time matters, just take your time and cut in everything instead of taping, it’s relatively quick and if you do good job cutting in you can roll close enough you probably won’t need multiple coats of cutting in just rolling which goes quick. And if you do need to use tape somewhere my “ancient Chinese secret” is put the tape against your shirt first which will clean lint off and it will still be sticky enough to block paint but won’t be too sticky to pull paint off from my experience
If you absolutely have to leave the tape on for multiple coats, (primer, and finish). Brush a coat of your trim paint on the tape first thing after install. Trim color will bleed on trim and seal the tape edges. Use razor as shown to remove tape when done. Myself ive found the best way is to remove the tape as soon as you brush over it. While it is still wet, not giving it time to bleed or fuse. Free hand the following coats, you have a nice line to follow by that point. ALWAYS use a razor when removing tape with dried paint. Flat finish paint rarely fuses. It's normally eggshells, and gloss finishes that fuse. Or you could just spray everything, paint will not bleed or fuse tape if applied with a paint sprayer.
Exactly. Make sure the paint near the tape meets your requirements for perfection, then peel it off as soon as you are done before the paint can dry. If the middle of the wall isn’t perfect you can fix that without having to retape.
I'm just a regular homeowner that has to paint now and then. I'm also older and have bad eyes so cutting-in is a challenge I've never been able to master. And I don't do it often enough to "practice until I can" like my wife bugs me to do. I also have orange peel texture on everything and it is everything you said. I hate it! I find taping along the ceiling gives me much better results and I can clean up spots where paint bleeds through with a little more tape and a small artist brush. It takes time but my results are good. What I do... 1. Use good tape. I like blue Frog Tape. I don't like the blue 3M "Sharp Line" version as it is thinner and doesn't stick well if you have to leave it up for a day before painting. 2. Make sure where you tape is clean! Clean your walls and baseboards. (No soap!) 3. Use your fingernail to press the tape down. Don't pull the tape tight while applying. You need to make sure the tape has stretch left to fill in the little valleys. 4. Finding the actual corner is a challenge. Your cut line might wander slightly but you can fix it later once you see the whole wall done so it look straight. 5. Once the tape is up put a dab of clear paintable non-silicon caulk on your finger and run it along the corner. Just a tiny amount. The caulk fills in gaps in the tape edge. Don't use to much! 6. Cut in with a brush then use a 3-4" roller as close to the corner as possible 1.5-2" tape lets you get right up to the edge without putting paint on the ceiling. 7. Pull the tape as soon as practical before the caulk has a chance to dry. If you don't caulk pull the tape while the paint is still wet. 8. A small artist brush of 3/8-1/2" works great to touch up bleed through spots. Tape the spot and paint the bleed spot and pull the tape. 9. Keep a damp rag handy to clean up oopsies. Keep in mind I'm doing my own painting so I'm not under time pressure. And I get a little anal and take a little pride about it not looking like a total noob did it. But my wife thinks I'm a bit to meticulous because she just wants it done.😀
I’m a pro and I also have to paint on occasion. I have had some of the same problems with paint and tape after a drywall patch. This is super helpful information! And for those people making the negative comments, if you didn’t get anything out of this video, keep quiet and move on.
@@bumblbesss this is why I make a distinction between a Pro and an Expert. Anyone who gets paid to do something is technically a professional, but we tend to see that classification as being an expert. An Expert has an exhaustive amount of information and experience in their field of expertise. All professionals should strive to be experts in their field.
The type of paint can definitely effect how the tape pulls. I have found the lower grade latex paint is softer and more stringy, it can make the problem worse. Higher quality products are harder. I would also recommend pulling the tape off while the paint is still semi wet or very soft. If you pull at just the right time, the edges will come out more crisp. As a painting contractor for 17 years, I disagree with cutting your edges in by hand. Although I COULD cut those lines by hand with a brush, I DONT. I find it much faster to tape the cuts and spray onto the tape. Especially when there are big color contrasts on the two surfaces. Lots of times it will take two brushed coats for coverage. Spraying is MUCH FASTER to second coat. When your back rolling, be sure not to touch the tape to prevent tape bleeding.
For cutting in around the ceiling I use an 8" drywall mud blade and wipe the ceiling side of the blade with a damp cloth each time I move it along. Using a 12" is faster but on uneven plaster walls you may get bleed through. The results are better than the wavy line of a free-hand cut in, and doesn't take any longer than if you had to tape the whole ceiling and removal of that tape. I must add that you don't force paint into the corner as you do this, paint horizontally and gently swipe against the blade. If you get bleed through, use the blade technique the opposite way to touch up the ceiling with a not so heavily soaked brush.
Not a pro but I like to add a bit of paintable caulk on my tape line. You can even use the cheaper tape and nothing bleeds through. Also remove the tape before the paint is dry.
You want a clean line from painter's tape? You must activate the tape after applying it. Lightly spray water on it after applying. This activates the bond of the tape.. Dry the tape and surrounding areas prior to painting. Once painted pull tape perpendicular to the line. Clean edge every time.
If you have too many layers of paint and/or sloppy caulk jobs around trim, I think you are just better off removing the trim. It isn't to hard to fix the trim afterwards on painted trim (just patch), but difficult (if not impossible) to fix on stained trim. What is really nice about removing the trim is that it cuts way down on the amount of cutting/taping you have to do when rolling the walls, and makes it so much easier to paint those small slivers of wall from doors that are close to another wall!
What I find helpful is if you're painting over drywall mud, make sure to remove all the dust and thin down your paint a lot as the first coat, more water will help the paint to soak into the mud, thus creating a stronger bond.
I always cut in by hand. It's so easy. I only use tape on surfaces that aren't easily coated with simple strokes, or an area that too small to get my brush into without getting paint everywhere.
I usually try to pull the tape off before the paint dries. But the issue you raise, i.e., too much paint in that joint, can be avoided by the user him/herself. Don’t just dump a bunch of paint on that edge and assume the tape will save you. You’re creating a huge problem for yourself, as VC’s video shows. When I paint along a tape, I ‘pretend’ I’m cutting in in order to minimize any paint overlap onto the tape. Another issue I’d love to see you address is the effect that gets created when you cut in along an edge using a brush, and then come back with a roller to do the main wall surface. That cut-in paint has a much different density and look than the rollered coat. I’ve tried some crazy ideas to overcome this, to no avail. Help!
3 things I learned from an OLD pro painter who used tape more than I thought he would (and I mean old, as in he's been doing it for years, and he was old in years and his hands were not quite as steady as they used to be.). 1. Use the corner of a putty knife to press the tape down on a FLAT surface. Helps with tape adhesion to the surface and prevent bleed under. 2. Remove the tape soon after painting (if the paint on the tape doesn't transfer to your hand when removing, you've waited too long). 3. Don't be super fussy cutting in at the ceiling with the wall color. Paint the walls and hit the ceiling a bit all the way around, let dry for a day or so, then tape the WALL with one continuous piece of tape. Then go back with the ceiling paint to 'cut in' and cover the wall paint overlap. Remove the tape and you will have the straightest cut line from wall to ceiling you'll ever see. Doesn't matter of the wall color is really dark or not, the eye won't tell because of the corner and it's generally dark anyway (or go 'heavy' on the ceiling paint). This avoids the issue of getting tape to stick to a textured ceiling, because the walls are flat. He was 'odd' also in the fact that he painted the ceiling LAST and did his "cut in" backwards (roll the field first, then cut in the corners with a brush. He said, "I don't waste paint with the brush, use the roller to get close to the edge, then just enough brush to fill in".) just for this technique. I asked about paint splatter from the ceiling to the walls, and he just said "Just be careful and take your time. And keep a damp rag handy to wipe off specks. No big deal." I've tried this, and amazingly it works extremely well. P.S. He REALLY liked "Frog" brand tape. He's tried all the brands previously and found that it was worth the extra $$ for "Frog" tape as it doesn't bleed under as much as other brands.
One trick my Dad learned from his FIL was to use a 6 inch metal putty knife, and line it up with the ceiling or trim, then use a 3 inch paint brush to cut in. Took a bit more time up front, but mistakes were fixable along the way, and no problems with tape pulling paint off. My Dad would do the entire ceiling and trim areas first, then go in with a roller for the walls. He'd go about 6 inches to a foot down from the ceiling for cut in, to ensure no mistakes
Can't use any tape on my house which was built and painted 7 years ago. All the paint on the walls/coving just peels off even when using the yellow frog tape (low tack). The tape doesn't even need to be pressed onto the wall and just needs to touch it and the paint is off. Seems to be every room which is like it.
Pull the tape when paint is wet. I too only use tape on trim. Remove tape as I go. Cardboard shield on ceiling and base. Brush cut as I go. Second coat with shield. Hardly ever need to brush cut on that coat. I get decent results. #Notapainterbytrade
Been a painter for a long time and I barely use tape for anything, but you have to protect existing baseboards so here's what I do. I cut in baseboards and everything you can reach from your knees first (no tape), then I go around and cut in the ceilings and corners and window trims down to where I could reach while on my knees. This gives the baseboard cut in enough time to dry to the touch, I run tape along my cut in directly taped to my fresh cut in on the wall, covering the baseboard enough to catch the splatter. This completely eliminates the problem with tape not sticking to your baseboard's top lip due to dust and whatnot as well as. Then I quickly roll the wall, pull the tape immediately after rolling and voila. Never pull paint off your wall again. I have to say there are some paints that are more prone to this as well tho so keep that in mind, your paint might be trash if it seems to pull up no matter what, either that or it's not adhering due to something underneath the paint.
To get a nice clean line with tape take some clear paintable latex interior caulk and run a tiny bead along the edge of the tape. Run your finger along the edge and remove the caulk. Then paint your edge and remove the tape before the caulk and the paint dry. Saw this in another video. I have problems with products like Bejamin Moore peeling off even after 8-10 days. We even primed before we painted. 8 to 10 days should be enough time for the paint to cure. I think sanding is a must especially areas where you are going to tape.
I have used a very thin layer of caulk over the tape. Apply caulk to the side paint will be applied. Gently pull tape after that segment is painted. Clean straight lines.
This looks like a combination of letting the paint dry before pulling the tape off and using really cheap paint!! Always pull your tape before the paint drys and always sand the wall prior to paint! Then , for the love of God! Use a decent paint! There.......problem solved! Lol!!
Thanks to your videos I’ve learnt how to drywall and paint really well, for an amateur. I built my first wall with a rounded corner and a vaulted door and I love it! It took me four months, but I’m sure it would have taken double that time if I had to figure out (or not) all your tips on my own. So thank you, I really appreciate your videos and your nice approach to teaching amateurs and DIYers like me 😊
Hey buddy, thanks for all the info you put out there. I got a question, can you give me some advice about how to estimate a paint job? For instance how do you figure out how to estimate to paint cabinets, or how much to paint a whole house or just a wall and to repair the wall. Thanks in advance.
I don't paint regularly and It took a lot of practice but I found learning to cut in to be an invaluable skill. Whenever I mask anything I peel it off WET or leave it an ⅛" back from where my line needs to be to prevent any major boo-boos but do anything I can to prevent painting onto the tape. Had way too many do overs because of tape and just don't trust it anymore.
Same. I still tape things, like appliances or cabinets, etc. As to not get paint on it, but after having problem after problem with painting next to tape, I quit using it on walls, trim, and ceilings, etc. If I mess up, I'll just wipe it off, or come back later with the opposite color and touch up.
Something I learned on RUclips is to remove the tape when the paint is still wet. That prevents the paint from pulling up. If you’ve waited too long already you can quickly add a bit of paint over top and wait a few minutes for the solvent to soften the paint underneath. The downsides are that this is more messy and you run the risk of getting wet paint from the tape onto other stuff if you aren’t careful. I assume this is controversial, because I’d previously heard you should only remove tape after the pint has dried. I’d love to hear your thoughts on it, Ben. Also, what do you think about those handheld paint guides? My house has a lot of popcorn ceilings so I can’t use tape, and my cut-ins weren’t as good as I would have liked. Seems like a paint guide would result in a good final product.
Lil bit of wet paint is easy to clean off trim with a 5 in one and damp rag compares to dry bleed or peeled paint. You're ceilings are pop corned but not the walls? Are you only painting ceiling? If not next time over cut your ceiling and cut in your walls. Remember chances are only you will notice the lil bit you couldn't hot cause of the corn, plus it will cast shadows and cause the illusion of paint lol. My best advice tho is get rid of the popcorn lol
@@swirledworld340 I have never seen a popcorn wall in my life…who does that? I actually only painted the walls, not the ceiling, but I might paint the ceiling in the future. Probably will just remove the popcorn next time I have the chance.
@@sleeknub in the Caribbean 🤣😮💨 there is a place called cowpet in the u.s.v.i the outside literally looks like they slung cow pies on the wall and they popcorned everything, not sure if it was a language breakdown or what...
I run a paint company and we tape baseboards strictly to prevent any overspray or problems on the baseboards, alot of guys Ive hired on have issues like this and theres so many tricks to avoid having that issue. The best honestly is for the very first coat, apply a super thin coat, like super thin. This does two things. 1) it pushes the tape down little more without stretching it and 2) it acts like caulking, it'll prevent the next coats from bleeding underneath. The thicker the first coat is, the more the problem is. Alternatively you can do other things like have the paint brush pushed 90 degrees to the wall or more aiming up, basically have the brush pointed away from the taped corner and use pressure on the brush to get it closer to the tape, dont worry you'll find ways to get faster with it. Tape isnt a miracle shield like people think it is, the more expensive tape pays for itself but just understanding that its basically a roll of paper with water resistant and glue.
I've been using blue tape for years and never had this much trouble with paint pulling from the wall. It has to be a change in the formulas of paint. This has really stressed me out.
Sand or wash the walls with TSP for better paint adhesion. Pull the tape while it is wet. To help prevent bleed under the tape lay down a thin layer of clear caulk and wipe it off, then paint. In this case you have to pull the tape before the caulk starts to set, 30 minutes.
I've only had that happen either when I waited too long to remove the tape or the paint under the tape hadn't dried or cured long enough because I was rushing. Great video!
I rarely tape, but there are times where i absolutely must. When I do, I cut as if the tape isn’t there. I find if you use too much paint it may bleed through. Once I’m finished cutting in (feature wall for example) I immediately remove the tape before the paint can dry. That way it doesn’t peel off the fresh paint when it does dry. If that made any sense. Also, side note. Home owners must be home because your tone is different, your speaking as if someone is in the next room Lol
I agree with cutting in as if the tape isn’t there. I really try to minimize the amount of paint going onto the tape. Pulling the tape while the top coat is still wet is also good practice, but usually more than one coat is needed which makes that impractical.
@@scottblair3719 yes true. 2nd coat is required. When I apply a 2nd coat (without taping), I cut close enough where I’m not touching the edge/corner, leaving a clean edge.
On the ceiling, take a 5in1 tool, and make a little groove to follow on the ceiling. Works good if the ceiling has texture as you knock the texture down
Have had the never use tape discussion before. My argument is always that typically I don’t use it but sometimes its easier or necessary to use it. It’s a tool just like the rest, sometimes you take it out of the box and sometimes you don’t.
The best and only way to eliminate these issues is pretty simple. Tape is used in areas where you can’t really get your brush in or in an area where you can’t get proper strokes. If your using tape in open areas you really shouldn’t be painting.
Once you finish painting you MUST remove the tape immediately. If you don’t remove the tape while the paint is still wet the tape becomes part of the wall. There is no seam between the wall and the tape and the paint on the wall just rips off. Happens every single time. When I put down tape I start in one corner and make sure to always overlap the tape in the same direction. As soon as I’m done painting I grab the corner and start pulling. Because it’s all perfectly layered it all comes off in one strip. Just pull and walk around the room. If it’s done right you don’t have to get up on a ladder and try to peel it off. Same with window frames. Just pull all the way around and it’s off. Chuck it in the trash. Now some paint will get under the tape. Not a problem. If it’s still tacky use a flat screwdriver and push it off the wall. If you’re lucky that’s all that’s needed. But if some paint color remains get a toothpick or make a tiny brush out of a hand full of brush hairs and dab some paint of the correct color over the stain. It’s gone.
Something most people don’t realize is that painting tape, even the high end brands, state that you need to remove the tape while it’s still wet and then apply new tape for each subsequent coat of paint. It makes using tape super tedious. So using tape or learning to cut in, just know it’s gonna take sometime.
Hi, Ben :) You are creating a super useful content. You basically taught me how to work with drywall! Could you please make a video regarding how much you charge for your work. Thank you :)
A topic I'd like you to cover: "when paint manufacturers 'change the formula'!" Example: I have used only Benjamin Moore paint inside and outside. I needed a quart to do some minor touch-up, and bought the product I always use. The color didn't match ... WAY OFF! I was told "they changed the formula." The paint store couldn't have cared less and told me the only remedy was to repaint the whole room. They refused to even try mixing-up a matching color. Home Depot came to the rescue, matched the paint perfectly and I'm super thankful. NOT please with Benjamin Moore or the "fancy" paint store! WHY change a formula when you have a product that's working and clients are trusting that the colors won't arbitrarily change?
Wow, finally after years you have discovered primer. But all wrong. In Poland we got 2 types of primer. One is like a regular white paint, almost. The second one is like a milk. Its acrylic water. Use this before mugging and after sanding ( best is 1 day before painting cuz then you have sure it wont get dusty by the time). And if you still have a problem with tape, also use acrylic paint. That latex one paint is the same as acrylic, but has more resin - it makes it like a gum, or snake skin.
I'm crying as I just did this at the baseboard on an otherwise almost perfect room. I hired someone to do drywall and prime, and they wanted to paint it but was unsatisfied by the quality of their work. I reskim coated, primed and painted two times. Tape is my only failure and was huge, I remembered incorrectly that you should wait for paint to dry before removing tape The only silver lining is that its the utility room, so not important. I wish you were local to Seattle and I would have just paid you to do it. What i did wrong 1. Left what the contractor had on the baseboard from priming. This was regular masking tape and was on mud that was weak as well and the paint wicked under 2. Left the same tape on between first and second coat. My remediation: 1. Remove all the mud from the top of the baseboard so the wall is a right angle to the baseboard top. 2. remove pulled paint and lightly sand edges Doing a minimal spot fill in really low places and brush off after sanding. 3. prime around line with an edger this time, and feather edge to finished paint with a nice bead. (if the edge sucks, revert to frog tape) 4. Second spot fill and reprime the spots. (if needed) 5. If edge looks bad, apply paintable caulk. 6. two layers of paint on the edge. Not really worried about flashing unless really bad. if its bad then its another layer, at least the paint layer will be very strong when it cures.
happened to me in the summer when moisture levels were really high in my home. After running a de-humidifier I noticed the paint pulled much less and although the problem was not absent, it was better with dryer air. Just a tip!
I hate tape. I avoid it like the plague. I've watched pro painters who free hand and have trained myself to cut-in without the pesky tape. I am slow, but it is satisfying and it comes out very nicely. (Carpenter by trade)
half of the tapes on my walls are peeling with wrinkles, so i am planning the cut them off. but do i need to retape them or just use dust control by sheerock? i have never done painting. So, why have to use tape? why not use tape on both sides or why not use tape at all?
I know this is an old video, but hopefully this can be answered. I taped my trim painted, peeled the tape off and everything from the new paint was fine. HOWEVER, paint on the trim that hadn't been painted since I moved in two years ago came off. It's semi-gloss interior paint, not specifically for trims though. Any advice?
I always pull the tape as soon as I pass a wall and am sure that I will not have to do a second coat. Latex/acrylic paints have a rubbery quality when dry. If it spans from the tape to the wall, it often will pull the paint off the wall, especially if the wall paint substrate was of a higher sheen. PULL THE TAPE BEFORE THE PAINT SETS!
I'm not a pro painter, but I have done quite a bit and I think I can get a pretty damn clean result. #1 as with anything, you have to consider the quality of both your materials and tools. Cheap paint will give a cheap result ......... AND ..... I'm not talking about the price you pay .... there is a lot of over priced, heavily marked up C#@P out there .... you have to find a reliable product and stick to it. Always stay with the same brand on the same job. ... I have found some paints of the same type but different manufacturers to be completely incompatable. Cheap brushes will make any painter look bad ........ a couple of good cutting brushes are worth the money ... ya don't have to pay top price for top shelf, but mid range trade quality is worth the price. Yes you need to buy, good quality, brand name low tack tape. #2, if you are not a pro painter and you don't do it every day ..... don't expect their methods to work for you. One thing I do that pro painters don't, .... Is I only cut the last coat ........ one coat on the wall, one coat on the ceiling and so forth ... and only cut the last ceiling coat ... AND wait till the wall is properly cured ........ OH I NEVER buy Ceiling white ... it's always watered down cheap C@#P ... I use the same wash and wear product I use on the walls. Yeh these days I use masking tape .... I used to thing I was a fair cutter ..... a proper masking job always gives a cleaner result. This does a number of things, #1 there are not multiple coats of paint on top of your masking #2 there is an overlap on the previous coats locking the coats into each other and there is no well defined peel point. One other things is once I have my last coat & I am happy .... remember I have masked up on well cured paint ....... I pull the making off while the last coat is "off" but still green ....... the last single coat will then come away pretty cleanly at the edge of the masking tape. One other BIG thing to remember is .... masking tape should never be left on for a long time ........ peel it off same day if you can. Either the glue will bond too well to the job or the edges will lift allowing paint to creep under. As for this dust and plaster thing ....... I always ... always wipe down with a damp cloth after I sand ..... yes I have brushed or vacuumed ... but you will see heaps of dust come off on your damp rag. Yes if you are cleaning bare paper it will raise the grain ........ go straight over that with a quality wall board sealer or primer ....... I know it's not what pro painters do, But, I will lightly sand again and wipe again with a damp rag ........ persoannly I'l go another coat of sealer or undercoat ........ if ya in a hurry you can go ya top coats. NOW back to sanding .... pro painters won't do this .... but I sand and damp wipe after every coat ..... it might be a very light rub, but it will knock down any lumps and bumps and guarantee a clean surface for paint. down to the Skirts and trims ..... If I can I pull the skirts and trim pieces, sand and paint them all but the final coat before I install them. The walls have been painted all the way to the floor, the skirts and then fitted, nail holes filled and sealed ........ the wall will be well cured by now and there is, again, no tear point in the wall paint at the edge of the Trim You have a realy clean edge to mask to and only one last coat on the trim. If you can't pull the skirts and trim overlaps and only mask or cut the last coat on the trim.
(Spackle) .... (Spackle) ... (Spackle!) Nice. Lots of ghost images making me rewind. Yes, tape is the devil. There are very limited instances where it's more useful than learning to cut... like tiny gaps behind doors that no one without a mirror will ever see but a good painter hates to slobber up.
Taping ceilings never works. Cutting in is easy with little practice. When I cut in I just barely let the bristles touch the ceiling....that is the trick. Most peopel are afraid to touch the ceiling with the brush, that is where they make their mistake, you have to to get a proper cut in. Another tip. Move the hand quicky on the wall. The slower you move your hand the easier to not get a straight line. Think of the tips of the prush and the pint of a pen. And also need the correct brush. My favorite cutting in brush is the Zibra 2 inch Chiseled Edge brush. Home Depot and Lowes.
So how do we fix the spots where the paint lifted so we don't see the torn edge under the new paint?
Ideally you need to patch it a little to blend the edge, spot prime the repair and then paint the whole wall. It's a headache.
that is the
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burning question
@@vancouvercarpenter thats infuriating, over a piece of tape
@@vancouvercarpenter flat paint should blend in. And at that elevation should not be visible. Great channel BTW
@@vancouvercarpenter If you use paint form the same can I don't believe you'll need to repaint the whole wall.
The way I learned to cut in paint was on inside corners because it doesn't matter if the paint goes on the other side. It's also a good way to warm up when you haven't painted in a while. I always keep a clean damp rag in my pocket to quickly wipe off any paint I get where I don't want it. I'm too cheap to use tape and have had too many bad experiences with it pulling off the paint. I'm hoping your next video is how to fix the paint after.
The few high end painters my family has hired in the past did not use tape either. They painted a whole kitchen around cupboards and everything in like 6 hours. Maybe ten years ago. Still looks amazing to this day. Was so impressed the quickness they had. Hardly a word spoken between the two of them. Just solid
Same here. We hired a crew that maybe taped the door knobs. A steady hand and wet rag seems to go faster in the long run.
@@uberempty We hired a painter and he didn't use tape. He also said if you see a painter with paint on their clothes they don't know what they are doing. He was clean after painting our whole inside.
I only have one thing to add here. Tape good. Overcutting, tape bleed, wrong tape, all those things bad. I use tape all of the time. The real trick is......"Use the tape as a 'Guide' not a 'Crutch'." Tape it to save you, but cut it into the tape as if it isn't taped. Minimal bleed, minimal buildup, minimal pull up.
Ben, you are absolutely correct when you said that cutting-in door moldings and baseboards takes the most practice. I own a professional painting business and use the least amount of tape necessary on my jobs. It just takes years of practice and steady nerves to learn how to cut-in and it becomes second nature after a while.
Nice to see good detail when explaining things. Even the “simple” projects can go a thousand times smoother with proper technique and knowledge.
I do a ton of painting/taping for my job. Clean surface is always a must. Damp rags. When applying my tape I always press down along trim boatds with a putty knife or the backside of my utility blade.
Always relate the time I pull my tape to about the same as when you would knockdown some wall texture. Dry’ish. But obviously not too dry! And I always score it, just in case. Prevention is always a good idea imo!!
The Mr. Rogers of DIY instruction. And he rides a shred stick well into his 40s. Dude's my hero.
If you remove the tape while the paint is still wet it won't peel.
Yeah. The only time I use tape now is if I'll be able to immediately remove it. But that's not always practical.
That’s what I do, especially if it’s on new paint job. But I try to wait 24 hrs before I put tape on. But I’m just doing repairs at home.
Another solution is to not paint over the tape on the first coat. Stay shy 1/8-1/4". If you feel the need because of colour, dry brush it towards the tape. Second coat, go over the tape. Pull the tape when you still have a wet edge.
I painted my living room and have lots of moldings and trim to paint around, including a chair molding about 28 inches above the baseboard. I have found that using tape is asking for trouble, especially when its hot inside the room you are painting. I like to use masking paper by 3M. it comes in different widths, and it has a tacky strip on the edge that you use to attach it.
I had no problems with bleed, or lifting the paint when pulling the masking paper off the trim. I have also seen a trick painters use with masking tape. Before applying to a surface, they will
tamp the sticky side of the tape to their pants or shirt to relieve some of the stickiness of the tape. This way its less prone to pull off fresh paint upon removal.
Taping tip , when using high end frog tapes wipe a damp sponge over tape before painting. Moisture activates the seal the tape provides
I don't use a lot of tape, but on the rare occasion that I do, this works well: pull the tape as soon as you're done painting the run. Don't let the paint dry on the tape before you pull it. Also- don't rely on the tape so much. Use it as a guide to get close, but don't slop all over it.
I used to think I had to pull the tape while it was still wet. But, after speaking with some more experienced painters than I, they told me that tape technology has gotten so much better these past few years. And, that yellow frog tape can be left on the baseboards overnight and pulled the next day. I tested it out and they were right! Has to be the right tape tho. Purple scotch works good too. Having to pull the tape while it's wet never made sense to me because if you're doing two coats, you have to tape the baseboards twice. Which obviously is a massive waste of tape and $$$.
@@justinranderson just saying what works for me. Like I said, I don't use tape much. Been painting 40 years, pretty much the only thing I use tape for is painting stripes on walls. Don't really need it for anything else except maybe keeping paint off adjacent casings in tight corners.
As you said at the end. There is an order of operation that you explained perfectly. I do walls last and only tape the base to prevent sprinkles or splatter from pro mar 200 mostly. Great video! This coming from an actual pro painter.
Yeah promar splatters like crazy. I didn't like it. Switched to opulance.
Peel off the tape before the paint drys.
Thank you
Too late now 😮
Another great video. I always use Sherwin Williams paint & primer. I make sure I get a can of primer only. I tape from the top/down of the project. I still haven't graduated from 1.5 in. Tape.
To prevent tearing I add mineral spirit to the first coat of paint in the roller pan.
That reminds me of the time when we teenagers. My friend painted the bathroom for his mother, semi-gloss latex over semi-gloss alkyd, no prep. After his mother took a shower for the first time, she noticed a little peeling around the light switch. When she pulled it she got about 90% of the paint off the bathroom in one big rubbery piece. 40 years later and i still tease him about that.
This actually happens to me a lot more than I wish. I even use tape when I have to caulk trim. My trick so far is like you said make sure there isn't too much build up on the tape and i remove the tape before the paint fully dries. Not sure if that's a good idea but i think it works pretty good.
⚠️ 1. Use high quality tape.
2. Clean surface before applying tape.
3. Apply tape properly by pressing on it firmly. This helps to avoid paint getting under the tape.
4. Remove tape before the paint is dry. This prevents pulling the new paint off near the edge of the tape. Also prevents paint bleeding through tape.
Well said. And make sure 9 layers of dirt aren't present on your baseboards that prevents the tape from adhering properly.
Number 3 I have heard before as well. Surprised it wasn't mentioned in the video.
Exactly. You follow these three steps, you'll get great results.
Number 3 is the most important thing.
You should try any low tack tape and a very thin bead of caulk over the tape along cutting in line and paint while caulk is still wet pull tape off while paint is still wet works awesome. I do this when customers don’t want skirtings painted and it’s never failed me you’ll get super straight lines, no paint will seep underneath and because it’s low tack no paint peeling unless the paint hasn’t adhered properly
1. Frog tape. 2. Press firmly 3. Remove before the paint dries. Make sure the surface you tape on has been completely cured. If not it will come off with the paint. This is overlooked often when taping on caulk.
You never leave tape , especially if paint is quite sticky, 1st coat go without tape and get paint as close as you can than on 2nd coat you go with tape , do 2 meters of corner and remove paint right away, paint won t have time to leak under tape and you will have nice straight line, and this goes especially if you work with black, antracite or any other paint that is high in terms of contrast, don use latex color , use semi gloss or non gloss collor which is better...practice and experince is all
My 2 cents, especially if you are doing your own house and not a job where time matters, just take your time and cut in everything instead of taping, it’s relatively quick and if you do good job cutting in you can roll close enough you probably won’t need multiple coats of cutting in just rolling which goes quick. And if you do need to use tape somewhere my “ancient Chinese secret” is put the tape against your shirt first which will clean lint off and it will still be sticky enough to block paint but won’t be too sticky to pull paint off from my experience
If you absolutely have to leave the tape on for multiple coats, (primer, and finish). Brush a coat of your trim paint on the tape first thing after install. Trim color will bleed on trim and seal the tape edges. Use razor as shown to remove tape when done. Myself ive found the best way is to remove the tape as soon as you brush over it. While it is still wet, not giving it time to bleed or fuse. Free hand the following coats, you have a nice line to follow by that point. ALWAYS use a razor when removing tape with dried paint. Flat finish paint rarely fuses. It's normally eggshells, and gloss finishes that fuse. Or you could just spray everything, paint will not bleed or fuse tape if applied with a paint sprayer.
Exactly. Make sure the paint near the tape meets your requirements for perfection, then peel it off as soon as you are done before the paint can dry. If the middle of the wall isn’t perfect you can fix that without having to retape.
Thanks!! This is the tip I was trying to remember!!
I'm just a regular homeowner that has to paint now and then. I'm also older and have bad eyes so cutting-in is a challenge I've never been able to master. And I don't do it often enough to "practice until I can" like my wife bugs me to do. I also have orange peel texture on everything and it is everything you said. I hate it! I find taping along the ceiling gives me much better results and I can clean up spots where paint bleeds through with a little more tape and a small artist brush. It takes time but my results are good. What I do...
1. Use good tape. I like blue Frog Tape. I don't like the blue 3M "Sharp Line" version as it is thinner and doesn't stick well if you have to leave it up for a day before painting.
2. Make sure where you tape is clean! Clean your walls and baseboards. (No soap!)
3. Use your fingernail to press the tape down. Don't pull the tape tight while applying. You need to make sure the tape has stretch left to fill in the little valleys.
4. Finding the actual corner is a challenge. Your cut line might wander slightly but you can fix it later once you see the whole wall done so it look straight.
5. Once the tape is up put a dab of clear paintable non-silicon caulk on your finger and run it along the corner. Just a tiny amount. The caulk fills in gaps in the tape edge. Don't use to much!
6. Cut in with a brush then use a 3-4" roller as close to the corner as possible 1.5-2" tape lets you get right up to the edge without putting paint on the ceiling.
7. Pull the tape as soon as practical before the caulk has a chance to dry. If you don't caulk pull the tape while the paint is still wet.
8. A small artist brush of 3/8-1/2" works great to touch up bleed through spots. Tape the spot and paint the bleed spot and pull the tape.
9. Keep a damp rag handy to clean up oopsies.
Keep in mind I'm doing my own painting so I'm not under time pressure. And I get a little anal and take a little pride about it not looking like a total noob did it. But my wife thinks I'm a bit to meticulous because she just wants it done.😀
that's why i use a damp cloth over the ceilings and the walls after sanding
I’m a pro and I also have to paint on occasion. I have had some of the same problems with paint and tape after a drywall patch. This is super helpful information! And for those people making the negative comments, if you didn’t get anything out of this video, keep quiet and move on.
Simmer down, bossy
Lol if you are having these issues then you are not a pro
So… All “Pros” need to be expert painters? Clearly you don’t know the difference between a professional and an expert.
@@matthewsmith5894 I am not a Pro, I know they have the same Issues as beginners, due to overconfidence I have seen Pros mess up fairly Bad
@@bumblbesss this is why I make a distinction between a Pro and an Expert. Anyone who gets paid to do something is technically a professional, but we tend to see that classification as being an expert. An Expert has an exhaustive amount of information and experience in their field of expertise. All professionals should strive to be experts in their field.
maybe another variant of the rona paint could offer a bit more potent adhesion 😅
🤣the wall wasnt vaxxed
The paints were simply social distancing 😆
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You can caulk the tape if you’re not using flat paint and peel the tape off before it dries. Thin layer of caulk and wipe off excess before painting
The type of paint can definitely effect how the tape pulls. I have found the lower grade latex paint is softer and more stringy, it can make the problem worse. Higher quality products are harder. I would also recommend pulling the tape off while the paint is still semi wet or very soft. If you pull at just the right time, the edges will come out more crisp. As a painting contractor for 17 years, I disagree with cutting your edges in by hand. Although I COULD cut those lines by hand with a brush, I DONT. I find it much faster to tape the cuts and spray onto the tape. Especially when there are big color contrasts on the two surfaces. Lots of times it will take two brushed coats for coverage. Spraying is MUCH FASTER to second coat. When your back rolling, be sure not to touch the tape to prevent tape bleeding.
I use caulk over tape to seal the edge , just don’t let it dry before you remove it
For cutting in around the ceiling I use an 8" drywall mud blade and wipe the ceiling side of the blade with a damp cloth each time I move it along. Using a 12" is faster but on uneven plaster walls you may get bleed through. The results are better than the wavy line of a free-hand cut in, and doesn't take any longer than if you had to tape the whole ceiling and removal of that tape. I must add that you don't force paint into the corner as you do this, paint horizontally and gently swipe against the blade. If you get bleed through, use the blade technique the opposite way to touch up the ceiling with a not so heavily soaked brush.
Not a pro but I like to add a bit of paintable caulk on my tape line. You can even use the cheaper tape and nothing bleeds through. Also remove the tape before the paint is dry.
You want a clean line from painter's tape? You must activate the tape after applying it. Lightly spray water on it after applying. This activates the bond of the tape.. Dry the tape and surrounding areas prior to painting. Once painted pull tape perpendicular to the line. Clean edge every time.
If you have too many layers of paint and/or sloppy caulk jobs around trim, I think you are just better off removing the trim. It isn't to hard to fix the trim afterwards on painted trim (just patch), but difficult (if not impossible) to fix on stained trim. What is really nice about removing the trim is that it cuts way down on the amount of cutting/taping you have to do when rolling the walls, and makes it so much easier to paint those small slivers of wall from doors that are close to another wall!
Never use tape. Learn to cut like a master, like me.
Yep. Caulk the joints and freehand. Tape is only to prevent drips
What I find helpful is if you're painting over drywall mud, make sure to remove all the dust and thin down your paint a lot as the first coat, more water will help the paint to soak into the mud, thus creating a stronger bond.
As a painter a don’t really tape the baseboards and trim, I do edge cutting instead cleaner les work and more professional.
Nicely done.
I always cut in by hand. It's so easy. I only use tape on surfaces that aren't easily coated with simple strokes, or an area that too small to get my brush into without getting paint everywhere.
I usually try to pull the tape off before the paint dries. But the issue you raise, i.e., too much paint in that joint, can be avoided by the user him/herself. Don’t just dump a bunch of paint on that edge and assume the tape will save you. You’re creating a huge problem for yourself, as VC’s video shows. When I paint along a tape, I ‘pretend’ I’m cutting in in order to minimize any paint overlap onto the tape.
Another issue I’d love to see you address is the effect that gets created when you cut in along an edge using a brush, and then come back with a roller to do the main wall surface. That cut-in paint has a much different density and look than the rollered coat. I’ve tried some crazy ideas to overcome this, to no avail. Help!
3 things I learned from an OLD pro painter who used tape more than I thought he would (and I mean old, as in he's been doing it for years, and he was old in years and his hands were not quite as steady as they used to be.).
1. Use the corner of a putty knife to press the tape down on a FLAT surface. Helps with tape adhesion to the surface and prevent bleed under.
2. Remove the tape soon after painting (if the paint on the tape doesn't transfer to your hand when removing, you've waited too long).
3. Don't be super fussy cutting in at the ceiling with the wall color. Paint the walls and hit the ceiling a bit all the way around, let dry for a day or so, then tape the WALL with one continuous piece of tape. Then go back with the ceiling paint to 'cut in' and cover the wall paint overlap. Remove the tape and you will have the straightest cut line from wall to ceiling you'll ever see. Doesn't matter of the wall color is really dark or not, the eye won't tell because of the corner and it's generally dark anyway (or go 'heavy' on the ceiling paint). This avoids the issue of getting tape to stick to a textured ceiling, because the walls are flat.
He was 'odd' also in the fact that he painted the ceiling LAST and did his "cut in" backwards (roll the field first, then cut in the corners with a brush. He said, "I don't waste paint with the brush, use the roller to get close to the edge, then just enough brush to fill in".) just for this technique. I asked about paint splatter from the ceiling to the walls, and he just said "Just be careful and take your time. And keep a damp rag handy to wipe off specks. No big deal."
I've tried this, and amazingly it works extremely well.
P.S.
He REALLY liked "Frog" brand tape. He's tried all the brands previously and found that it was worth the extra $$ for "Frog" tape as it doesn't bleed under as much as other brands.
I like your videos and positive thinking God bless you and your family.
One trick my Dad learned from his FIL was to use a 6 inch metal putty knife, and line it up with the ceiling or trim, then use a 3 inch paint brush to cut in. Took a bit more time up front, but mistakes were fixable along the way, and no problems with tape pulling paint off. My Dad would do the entire ceiling and trim areas first, then go in with a roller for the walls. He'd go about 6 inches to a foot down from the ceiling for cut in, to ensure no mistakes
The knife is my friend! Thanks!
Can't use any tape on my house which was built and painted 7 years ago. All the paint on the walls/coving just peels off even when using the yellow frog tape (low tack). The tape doesn't even need to be pressed onto the wall and just needs to touch it and the paint is off. Seems to be every room which is like it.
This is like painting for dummies.
Pull the tape when paint is wet. I too only use tape on trim. Remove tape as I go. Cardboard shield on ceiling and base. Brush cut as I go. Second coat with shield. Hardly ever need to brush cut on that coat. I get decent results.
#Notapainterbytrade
Been a painter for a long time and I barely use tape for anything, but you have to protect existing baseboards so here's what I do. I cut in baseboards and everything you can reach from your knees first (no tape), then I go around and cut in the ceilings and corners and window trims down to where I could reach while on my knees. This gives the baseboard cut in enough time to dry to the touch, I run tape along my cut in directly taped to my fresh cut in on the wall, covering the baseboard enough to catch the splatter. This completely eliminates the problem with tape not sticking to your baseboard's top lip due to dust and whatnot as well as. Then I quickly roll the wall, pull the tape immediately after rolling and voila. Never pull paint off your wall again. I have to say there are some paints that are more prone to this as well tho so keep that in mind, your paint might be trash if it seems to pull up no matter what, either that or it's not adhering due to something underneath the paint.
You have to cut the tape off with a razor blade, score it with a blade where the tape meets the walls. Frog tape works good.
To get a nice clean line with tape take some clear paintable latex interior caulk and run a tiny bead along the edge of the tape. Run your finger along the edge and remove the caulk. Then paint your edge and remove the tape before the caulk and the paint dry. Saw this in another video.
I have problems with products like Bejamin Moore peeling off even after 8-10 days. We even primed before we painted. 8 to 10 days should be enough time for the paint to cure. I think sanding is a must especially areas where you are going to tape.
This technique works really well.
IDK whats up with american paint but over here in europe the only way paint peels of like that is if it is latex based
I have used a very thin layer of caulk over the tape. Apply caulk to the side paint will be applied. Gently pull tape after that segment is painted. Clean straight lines.
This looks like a combination of letting the paint dry before pulling the tape off and using really cheap paint!! Always pull your tape before the paint drys and always sand the wall prior to paint! Then , for the love of God! Use a decent paint! There.......problem solved! Lol!!
Great video ben
Thanks to your videos I’ve learnt how to drywall and paint really well, for an amateur. I built my first wall with a rounded corner and a vaulted door and I love it! It took me four months, but I’m sure it would have taken double that time if I had to figure out (or not) all your tips on my own. So thank you, I really appreciate your videos and your nice approach to teaching amateurs and DIYers like me 😊
Did you mud it yourself??
@@NuttedInYoMom I did :)
Hey buddy, thanks for all the info you put out there. I got a question, can you give me some advice about how to estimate a paint job? For instance how do you figure out how to estimate to paint cabinets, or how much to paint a whole house or just a wall and to repair the wall. Thanks in advance.
using the knife to score the tape edge is key.
It's easier and cleaner to just cut it in with no tape. Keep a damp cloth at hand to wipe off, if you get any on the skirting.
How do you repair the torn paint, blending that edge into the new paint?
I usually will pull the tape once I finish painting when it's still a little tacky
I use the cheap tape and a bead of sealant if spraying. I do it your way if brushing good vid like always. Dunedwards paints
How do u fix the big spot when u go to repaint ? I know sand but it would still stick out. Should you spackle or mud the ripped area ? Great vid btw
I don't paint regularly and It took a lot of practice but I found learning to cut in to be an invaluable skill. Whenever I mask anything I peel it off WET or leave it an ⅛" back from where my line needs to be to prevent any major boo-boos but do anything I can to prevent painting onto the tape. Had way too many do overs because of tape and just don't trust it anymore.
Same. I still tape things, like appliances or cabinets, etc. As to not get paint on it, but after having problem after problem with painting next to tape, I quit using it on walls, trim, and ceilings, etc. If I mess up, I'll just wipe it off, or come back later with the opposite color and touch up.
Another very common problem is simply not letting the primer dry long enough. Let it dry longer than recommended.
Hi Ben,
Thanks a lot for your videos. A brush of which brand do you prefer to use for cut-ins?
i spray 95% of my jobs i always peel the tape off as soon as i finish stright in sgright out
Cheap paint with cheap polymers and letting tape sit too long and allowing the paint to bridge is why this happens.
Something I learned on RUclips is to remove the tape when the paint is still wet. That prevents the paint from pulling up. If you’ve waited too long already you can quickly add a bit of paint over top and wait a few minutes for the solvent to soften the paint underneath. The downsides are that this is more messy and you run the risk of getting wet paint from the tape onto other stuff if you aren’t careful.
I assume this is controversial, because I’d previously heard you should only remove tape after the pint has dried. I’d love to hear your thoughts on it, Ben.
Also, what do you think about those handheld paint guides? My house has a lot of popcorn ceilings so I can’t use tape, and my cut-ins weren’t as good as I would have liked. Seems like a paint guide would result in a good final product.
100% agree. Remove tape right after your done painting the room while paint still wet.
Lil bit of wet paint is easy to clean off trim with a 5 in one and damp rag compares to dry bleed or peeled paint.
You're ceilings are pop corned but not the walls? Are you only painting ceiling? If not next time over cut your ceiling and cut in your walls. Remember chances are only you will notice the lil bit you couldn't hot cause of the corn, plus it will cast shadows and cause the illusion of paint lol.
My best advice tho is get rid of the popcorn lol
@@swirledworld340 I have never seen a popcorn wall in my life…who does that?
I actually only painted the walls, not the ceiling, but I might paint the ceiling in the future. Probably will just remove the popcorn next time I have the chance.
@@sleeknub in the Caribbean 🤣😮💨 there is a place called cowpet in the u.s.v.i the outside literally looks like they slung cow pies on the wall and they popcorned everything, not sure if it was a language breakdown or what...
I run a paint company and we tape baseboards strictly to prevent any overspray or problems on the baseboards, alot of guys Ive hired on have issues like this and theres so many tricks to avoid having that issue. The best honestly is for the very first coat, apply a super thin coat, like super thin. This does two things. 1) it pushes the tape down little more without stretching it and 2) it acts like caulking, it'll prevent the next coats from bleeding underneath. The thicker the first coat is, the more the problem is.
Alternatively you can do other things like have the paint brush pushed 90 degrees to the wall or more aiming up, basically have the brush pointed away from the taped corner and use pressure on the brush to get it closer to the tape, dont worry you'll find ways to get faster with it. Tape isnt a miracle shield like people think it is, the more expensive tape pays for itself but just understanding that its basically a roll of paper with water resistant and glue.
Just cut the wall in tape is meant to hold something in place
I've been using blue tape for years and never had this much trouble with paint pulling from the wall. It has to be a change in the formulas of paint. This has really stressed me out.
Video was so helpful to me! Thank you 😊 Also what’s the proper order to painting a room? Ceiling first? Or wall and trim first ?
I go around with an x-acto after it’s setup at least 24 hours. Take your time and any resistance, cut it!
Sand or wash the walls with TSP for better paint adhesion. Pull the tape while it is wet. To help prevent bleed under the tape lay down a thin layer of clear caulk and wipe it off, then paint. In this case you have to pull the tape before the caulk starts to set, 30 minutes.
I should've took it off before paint dried
I've only had that happen either when I waited too long to remove the tape or the paint under the tape hadn't dried or cured long enough because I was rushing. Great video!
I rarely tape, but there are times where i absolutely must.
When I do, I cut as if the tape isn’t there. I find if you use too much paint it may bleed through.
Once I’m finished cutting in (feature wall for example) I immediately remove the tape before the paint can dry. That way it doesn’t peel off the fresh paint when it does dry.
If that made any sense.
Also, side note. Home owners must be home because your tone is different, your speaking as if someone is in the next room Lol
I agree with cutting in as if the tape isn’t there. I really try to minimize the amount of paint going onto the tape. Pulling the tape while the top coat is still wet is also good practice, but usually more than one coat is needed which makes that impractical.
@@scottblair3719 yes true. 2nd coat is required. When I apply a 2nd coat (without taping), I cut close enough where I’m not touching the edge/corner, leaving a clean edge.
On the ceiling, take a 5in1 tool, and make a little groove to follow on the ceiling. Works good if the ceiling has texture as you knock the texture down
Have had the never use tape discussion before. My argument is always that typically I don’t use it but sometimes its easier or necessary to use it. It’s a tool just like the rest, sometimes you take it out of the box and sometimes you don’t.
The best and only way to eliminate these issues is pretty simple. Tape is used in areas where you can’t really get your brush in or in an area where you can’t get proper strokes. If your using tape in open areas you really shouldn’t be painting.
Maybe pull it off while it's still wet?
Once you finish painting you MUST remove the tape immediately. If you don’t remove the tape while the paint is still wet the tape becomes part of the wall. There is no seam between the wall and the tape and the paint on the wall just rips off. Happens every single time. When I put down tape I start in one corner and make sure to always overlap the tape in the same direction. As soon as I’m done painting I grab the corner and start pulling. Because it’s all perfectly layered it all comes off in one strip. Just pull and walk around the room. If it’s done right you don’t have to get up on a ladder and try to peel it off. Same with window frames. Just pull all the way around and it’s off. Chuck it in the trash. Now some paint will get under the tape. Not a problem. If it’s still tacky use a flat screwdriver and push it off the wall. If you’re lucky that’s all that’s needed. But if some paint color remains get a toothpick or make a tiny brush out of a hand full of brush hairs and dab some paint of the correct color over the stain. It’s gone.
Something most people don’t realize is that painting tape, even the high end brands, state that you need to remove the tape while it’s still wet and then apply new tape for each subsequent coat of paint. It makes using tape super tedious. So using tape or learning to cut in, just know it’s gonna take sometime.
Hi, Ben :)
You are creating a super useful content. You basically taught me how to work with drywall!
Could you please make a video regarding how much you charge for your work.
Thank you :)
I find keeping the tape on the roll really helps. 😉
A topic I'd like you to cover: "when paint manufacturers 'change the formula'!"
Example: I have used only Benjamin Moore paint inside and outside. I needed a quart to do some minor touch-up, and bought the product I always use. The color didn't match ... WAY OFF! I was told "they changed the formula." The paint store couldn't have cared less and told me the only remedy was to repaint the whole room. They refused to even try mixing-up a matching color.
Home Depot came to the rescue, matched the paint perfectly and I'm super thankful. NOT please with Benjamin Moore or the "fancy" paint store! WHY change a formula when you have a product that's working and clients are trusting that the colors won't arbitrarily change?
What I’ve found that works well is to remove the masking tape within 30 mins of your final coat.
Wow, finally after years you have discovered primer. But all wrong.
In Poland we got 2 types of primer.
One is like a regular white paint, almost. The second one is like a milk. Its acrylic water. Use this before mugging and after sanding ( best is 1 day before painting cuz then you have sure it wont get dusty by the time). And if you still have a problem with tape, also use acrylic paint. That latex one paint is the same as acrylic, but has more resin - it makes it like a gum, or snake skin.
I'm crying as I just did this at the baseboard on an otherwise almost perfect room. I hired someone to do drywall and prime, and they wanted to paint it but was unsatisfied by the quality of their work. I reskim coated, primed and painted two times. Tape is my only failure and was huge, I remembered incorrectly that you should wait for paint to dry before removing tape
The only silver lining is that its the utility room, so not important. I wish you were local to Seattle and I would have just paid you to do it.
What i did wrong
1. Left what the contractor had on the baseboard from priming. This was regular masking tape and was on mud that was weak as well and the paint wicked under
2. Left the same tape on between first and second coat.
My remediation:
1. Remove all the mud from the top of the baseboard so the wall is a right angle to the baseboard top.
2. remove pulled paint and lightly sand edges Doing a minimal spot fill in really low places and brush off after sanding.
3. prime around line with an edger this time, and feather edge to finished paint with a nice bead. (if the edge sucks, revert to frog tape)
4. Second spot fill and reprime the spots. (if needed)
5. If edge looks bad, apply paintable caulk.
6. two layers of paint on the edge. Not really worried about flashing unless really bad. if its bad then its another layer, at least the paint layer will be very strong when it cures.
happened to me in the summer when moisture levels were really high in my home. After running a de-humidifier I noticed the paint pulled much less and although the problem was not absent, it was better with dryer air. Just a tip!
Why is there paint on the plug in?
And there wouldn't be that tape problem if a person can use a brush.
I hate tape. I avoid it like the plague. I've watched pro painters who free hand and have trained myself to cut-in without the pesky tape. I am slow, but it is satisfying and it comes out very nicely. (Carpenter by trade)
half of the tapes on my walls are peeling with wrinkles, so i am planning the cut them off. but do i need to retape them or just use dust control by sheerock?
i have never done painting. So, why have to use tape? why not use tape on both sides or why not use tape at all?
Seems like most of the comments are from people who didn't need to watch this in the first place.
I always pull of the tape after paint..in wet condition
And how u fix when u take a little paint? Paint again?
I know this is an old video, but hopefully this can be answered. I taped my trim painted, peeled the tape off and everything from the new paint was fine. HOWEVER, paint on the trim that hadn't been painted since I moved in two years ago came off. It's semi-gloss interior paint, not specifically for trims though. Any advice?
I always pull the tape as soon as I pass a wall and am sure that I will not have to do a second coat. Latex/acrylic paints have a rubbery quality when dry. If it spans from the tape to the wall, it often will pull the paint off the wall, especially if the wall paint substrate was of a higher sheen. PULL THE TAPE BEFORE THE PAINT SETS!
I use emulsion which doesn't make a "film layer" like this, I thought this was the only type to be used on walls.
I'm not a pro painter, but I have done quite a bit and I think I can get a pretty damn clean result.
#1 as with anything, you have to consider the quality of both your materials and tools.
Cheap paint will give a cheap result ......... AND ..... I'm not talking about the price you pay .... there is a lot of over priced, heavily marked up C#@P out there .... you have to find a reliable product and stick to it.
Always stay with the same brand on the same job. ... I have found some paints of the same type but different manufacturers to be completely incompatable.
Cheap brushes will make any painter look bad ........ a couple of good cutting brushes are worth the money ... ya don't have to pay top price for top shelf, but mid range trade quality is worth the price.
Yes you need to buy, good quality, brand name low tack tape.
#2, if you are not a pro painter and you don't do it every day ..... don't expect their methods to work for you.
One thing I do that pro painters don't, .... Is I only cut the last coat ........ one coat on the wall, one coat on the ceiling and so forth ... and only cut the last ceiling coat ... AND wait till the wall is properly cured ........ OH I NEVER buy Ceiling white ... it's always watered down cheap C@#P ... I use the same wash and wear product I use on the walls.
Yeh these days I use masking tape .... I used to thing I was a fair cutter ..... a proper masking job always gives a cleaner result.
This does a number of things,
#1 there are not multiple coats of paint on top of your masking
#2 there is an overlap on the previous coats locking the coats into each other and there is no well defined peel point.
One other things is once I have my last coat & I am happy .... remember I have masked up on well cured paint ....... I pull the making off while the last coat is "off" but still green ....... the last single coat will then come away pretty cleanly at the edge of the masking tape.
One other BIG thing to remember is .... masking tape should never be left on for a long time ........ peel it off same day if you can.
Either the glue will bond too well to the job or the edges will lift allowing paint to creep under.
As for this dust and plaster thing ....... I always ... always wipe down with a damp cloth after I sand ..... yes I have brushed or vacuumed ... but you will see heaps of dust come off on your damp rag.
Yes if you are cleaning bare paper it will raise the grain ........ go straight over that with a quality wall board sealer or primer ....... I know it's not what pro painters do, But, I will lightly sand again and wipe again with a damp rag ........ persoannly I'l go another coat of sealer or undercoat ........ if ya in a hurry you can go ya top coats.
NOW back to sanding .... pro painters won't do this .... but I sand and damp wipe after every coat ..... it might be a very light rub, but it will knock down any lumps and bumps and guarantee a clean surface for paint.
down to the Skirts and trims ..... If I can I pull the skirts and trim pieces, sand and paint them all but the final coat before I install them.
The walls have been painted all the way to the floor, the skirts and then fitted, nail holes filled and sealed ........ the wall will be well cured by now and there is, again, no tear point in the wall paint at the edge of the Trim
You have a realy clean edge to mask to and only one last coat on the trim.
If you can't pull the skirts and trim overlaps and only mask or cut the last coat on the trim.
(Spackle) .... (Spackle) ... (Spackle!)
Nice. Lots of ghost images making me rewind.
Yes, tape is the devil. There are very limited instances where it's more useful than learning to cut... like tiny gaps behind doors that no one without a mirror will ever see but a good painter hates to slobber up.
Taping ceilings never works. Cutting in is easy with little practice. When I cut in I just barely let the bristles touch the ceiling....that is the trick. Most peopel are afraid to touch the ceiling with the brush, that is where they make their mistake, you have to to get a proper cut in. Another tip. Move the hand quicky on the wall. The slower you move your hand the easier to not get a straight line. Think of the tips of the prush and the pint of a pen. And also need the correct brush. My favorite cutting in brush is the Zibra 2 inch Chiseled Edge brush. Home Depot and Lowes.