I cant even begin to thank you Pete, for doing this and so many more videos on these kinds of repairs, its something that's always interested me, but I had no idea about how to go about doing this. LOL always thought you had to be some young Swedish Kid learning from masters in the snowy mountains. In short you have sparked a fire within me to work on my own collection. I have two pocket watches that don't work due to my Uncle who had them, 1 was my Great Grandfather's Elgin, and 2, is my Grandfather's a simple mechanical Pocket watch from the 1940's (I think) a Waltham with a nice fisherman on the face case. I also have several wrist watches I bought in the 90's I liked strange designs many of which is from Storm. Anyway I look forward to working on them, and if anything goes wrong I know a watchmaker in Florida I can send them to, LOL. For the most part I think I can get it done, been reading books and your videos and such. But I worry about working on my key wind Elgin which works, I feel more comfortable working on something that's already broken. Okay long enough, Thumbs up my friend and cheers!
Wow! A very old watch. As usual, I enjoyed the video very much. I like seeing the parts when they are clean and are put back. I like seeing the polished case too.
Re finger cots cutting off your circulation. Cut off the bottom rim and it won't cut off your circulation. I use these for hours while saddle-stitching leather and don't have circulation problems thereafter.
It would be really good if you could film the not-so-routine things that you do. In this case I would have loved to see you shellacing the pallet fork, this is something I've not yet attempted myself.
This was and is a dedicated wristwatch, not a ladies pocket watch conversion. You can tell as the barrel and winding stem gears are reversed compared to the ladies pocket watch movement. This allows the winding stem to enter the case and movement at the 3 o’clock position entering the movement as modern watches display. This allows the sub second hand to remain at the six o’clock position. A conversion would have the sub second hand at the six o’clock position only if the stem remained in the 12 o’clock position. For Elgin this dates the watch after 1910. Now there were conversions prior to and post this time period but they were never dedicated wristlets as this. The controversy occurs between Omega and Zenith as the original wristlet (3 position for stem, 6 position for sub second) as the producers of the first dedicated wristlets circa 1899. Interestingly, as you stated the movement serial number dates it to 1890. So probably this was a ladies wristlet converted to a men’s wristlet post 1910.
Thanks for the video, I am about to restore an Elgin watch that is similar (1910 though). How did you determine what mainspring to order to replace the old one? Thanks.
The best way to do this as a novice is to use a micrometer and measure the thickness and width of the mainspring. Most mainsprings thickness determines their tensile strength. Also you will. Need to measure the length. The end of the mainspring will have a “tA” or hole in it. That is always stated in the description of the new mainsprings. If you are uncomfortable with ordering a new one, you can remove the existing spring and clean it ( if not broken) Clean with mineral spirits, then with a good degreasing cleaner. If you don’t have watch parts rinse, use 99% ipa. If it is broken. Match with a spring that is at lease the same width. Try to match the length as close as possible. Elgin springs are easy to find. Check otto Frei.
Hi Peter, thank you for Sharing with US this Infos. I have an elgin 114, pretty similar, made circa 1893...80% of the components are equal...ive cleaned It, i Ve checked the balance wheel, the jewels, everything...but sometimes It goes hours, sometimes work for minutuse, It stops random...i'm trying ti learn, what can be the problem? Thank you in advice
If the balance and staff are good, check the balance jewels. If there is any dirt on the gears, dip them in acetone or mineral spirits fir 20 or 30 seconds and then clean them again normally and rinse. The last part is to double check the mainspring.
wait ... NEW mainspring ...WHY not just put it in from its holder? NO REASON to unwind it out of the holder, then use the mainspring winder to install it. At least everyone else does not unwind from the holder then wind onto a mainspring winder when installing a new mainspring.
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Nice looking watch.
I cant even begin to thank you Pete, for doing this and so many more videos on these kinds of repairs, its something that's always interested me, but I had no idea about how to go about doing this. LOL always thought you had to be some young Swedish Kid learning from masters in the snowy mountains. In short you have sparked a fire within me to work on my own collection. I have two pocket watches that don't work due to my Uncle who had them, 1 was my Great Grandfather's Elgin, and 2, is my Grandfather's a simple mechanical Pocket watch from the 1940's (I think) a Waltham with a nice fisherman on the face case. I also have several wrist watches I bought in the 90's I liked strange designs many of which is from Storm. Anyway I look forward to working on them, and if anything goes wrong I know a watchmaker in Florida I can send them to, LOL. For the most part I think I can get it done, been reading books and your videos and such. But I worry about working on my key wind Elgin which works, I feel more comfortable working on something that's already broken. Okay long enough, Thumbs up my friend and cheers!
Thanks Peter for demystifying all this 😊
Wow! A very old watch. As usual, I enjoyed the video very much. I like seeing the parts when they are clean and are put back. I like seeing the polished case too.
Sorry I lost the polishing part of the video. I’ll get it next time
nice video, as always very enjoyable to watch
Re finger cots cutting off your circulation. Cut off the bottom rim and it won't cut off your circulation. I use these for hours while saddle-stitching leather and don't have circulation problems thereafter.
Mark Wiles also advises this. Works like a charm if you have thick fingers. Snip just the ring. It will roll up and work just the same.
It would be really good if you could film the not-so-routine things that you do. In this case I would have loved to see you shellacing the pallet fork, this is something I've not yet attempted myself.
This was and is a dedicated wristwatch, not a ladies pocket watch conversion.
You can tell as the barrel and winding stem gears are reversed compared to the ladies pocket watch movement. This allows the winding stem to enter the case and movement at the 3 o’clock position entering the movement as modern watches display. This allows the sub second hand to remain at the six o’clock position. A conversion would have the sub second hand at the six o’clock position only if the stem remained in the 12 o’clock position.
For Elgin this dates the watch after 1910. Now there were conversions prior to and post this time period but they were never dedicated wristlets as this. The controversy occurs between Omega and Zenith as the original wristlet (3 position for stem, 6 position for sub second) as the producers of the first dedicated wristlets circa 1899.
Interestingly, as you stated the movement serial number dates it to 1890. So probably this was a ladies wristlet converted to a men’s wristlet post 1910.
I´m not sure, that it is a transformed pocket watch. I guess it is a original wristwatch from WW1 or early twentys.
Thanks for the video, I am about to restore an Elgin watch that is similar (1910 though). How did you determine what mainspring to order to replace the old one? Thanks.
The best way to do this as a novice is to use a micrometer and measure the thickness and width of the mainspring. Most mainsprings thickness determines their tensile strength. Also you will. Need to measure the length. The end of the mainspring will have a “tA” or hole in it. That is always stated in the description of the new mainsprings. If you are uncomfortable with ordering a new one, you can remove the existing spring and clean it ( if not broken) Clean with mineral spirits, then with a good degreasing cleaner. If you don’t have watch parts rinse, use 99% ipa. If it is broken. Match with a spring that is at lease the same width. Try to match the length as close as possible. Elgin springs are easy to find. Check otto Frei.
I have one like this.
Hi Peter, thank you for Sharing with US this Infos.
I have an elgin 114, pretty similar, made circa 1893...80% of the components are equal...ive cleaned It, i Ve checked the balance wheel, the jewels, everything...but sometimes It goes hours, sometimes work for minutuse, It stops random...i'm trying ti learn, what can be the problem?
Thank you in advice
If the balance and staff are good, check the balance jewels. If there is any dirt on the gears, dip them in acetone or mineral spirits fir 20 or 30 seconds and then clean them again normally and rinse. The last part is to double check the mainspring.
@@watchesandjewelry Thank you very much, i'll try
wait ... NEW mainspring ...WHY not just put it in from its holder? NO REASON to unwind it out of the holder, then use the mainspring winder to install it.
At least everyone else does not unwind from the holder then wind onto a mainspring winder when installing a new mainspring.