I just used this video to fix my Suburban HW heater on a used 5th wheel I just purchased. This was awesome!!! I knew which tools I needed so I was able to have everything ready to fix my corroded anode and heating element. Thanks for saving me the repair bill that would have probably been stupid high!
So how did you know that was what you needed to replace? Mine is shutting the electricity off but it's not throwing the actual water heater breaker in the camper.
Amazing video. Showed me exactly what I needed to fix my Surburban SW6 DE. The on/off switch had corroded permanently closed and needed replacing. Since I had to remove the propane tube to get to it I figured I may as well replace the heating element as well, along with the limit switches (19 y/o rv!). Good to go for another 5 years now! Thank you so much, couldn't have done it without this guide.
Thank you SO much! I am a fulltime RV'R and a DIYer. I was gonna just dive head first into this without knowing what all I needed and this helped me more than you know
Great instructional video, thank you. I just ordered the socket you showed - you should include a link for that (and the element) in your description so you can receive a commission. I really like the way you went thru all the safety precautions and actually disconnected the main power. Stay safe.
Great video!!! Make sure you check for gas leaks after reconnecting the gas line. Not a bad idea to ensure the gas system will auto light and function properly as well.
Appreciate the quick and methodical way you went through this video, as I've never had to change mine, but now know the method of going about changing mine at some point. I change my anode rod annually, tape the threads prior to installation.
Great video and instructions. Just did our first camp of the season and forgot to switch the water back into the hot water tank and of course blew the element. Second time I’ve done this 🙄
Great video...I like to use some Teflon plumbers tape over the anode rode threads to make sure it seals. I also use a wire brush to clean off the rusty threads on both male and female sides.
Teflon tape should be applied to threads for both anode and element replacement. Also, there is a combination wrench available for both anode and element
I replaced my element and anode. The screws holding my black cap required a 1/4" nut on ratchet to remove. I had to remove the four screws holding the propane valves'(?) bracket to the left and move it a little to get to the upper left screw holding the black cap.
Thank you, Your video helped me to understand the system. As I am new to the RV thing. However I am loving it. Thanks again for your taking the time to do this video.
Thanks for the video. I'll be replacing the electric element tomorrow now that I see how simple it is to do. In my case mine is tripping the ground fault circuit interrupter of my surge suppressor. Must be water seepage causing that.
This is a great video and thanks for making it. I believe that I have the same problem and will begin basically the same repair tomorrow. Hopefully it will only be the element also and nothing else major. Thanks again!
Recomended applying dialectric grease on wire and screw to keep from rusting. Would have also been a good time to clean rust off threads...brass brush...little bit of preventive maint will help .
water heater had a leak from the tank. fixed it. then no hot water. coincidence the element went out too? got an anode on the way and now an element. thanks for showing where the element is. take care.
ive got a more involved task ahead of me i was hoping someone could shed some light on. i got a trailer that was gutted after a fire and installed all new appliances, wiring converter, everything. well a year later and im now putting in the water heater it was just the shell with an element, i aquired a thermostat (the type thats black with 7 terminals, temp adjust and a red reset button. i know i have to wire it all up but not sure whats going where. both wires off the element attach to respective terminals on the tstat? and a couple wires from the tstat to an empty slot in main breaker. also the wiring that is connected to the wh curcuit is solid copper? should it be stranded gauged wire or is the solid copper supposed to be there? any info appreciated, great vid!
Hey, I replaced my heating element today and it was not my problem. I have researched and it seems as though I have both a LP thermostat and an Electrical thermostat for this unit. I am going to do further test tomorrow on it but I'm 99.9% sure my Electrical Thermostat has gone out. I will be making a video on this subject soon.
Thanks dude. Why is it that guys like myself who have done a ton or repairs and modifications always check to see if someone else has done something I haven't to see it they messed up. Like your taking one for the team if it didn't work out. My excuse is that the rv is my house and if I "F" it up I have to call someone to bail me out.
I am planning to purchase the same model water heater to upgrade from a gas only suburban water heater. Why did you have to replace the heating element? what symptoms did it gave you beside not working that you replaced it? I just want to know so that when mine needs replacement at least I will know what to look for.
The sealant used between the outer trim and the water heater was not installed correctly so some of the water draining from the water heater would go past the "seal" toward the wood floor below then between the wall/floor, ending up below the floor on top of the plastic protective barrier just above the frame. This would keep the under side of the floor wet - after 15 years it was too late and I had to replace the entire floor due to rot. I use a shop vac to suck up the water as it exits the water heater now.
Hot water tank won’t work on 120v anymore & can’t figure out what to replace. I’m trying to figure out if it’s the thermostat/Tstat or the electric element. I’m sure someone left the electric switch on & burned out. Which one do I need? Thanks.
Please when you ever open and replace any part of the propane line, pressurize it and then use a solution of soapy water to check the connection for leaks!
This is a valid comment, the line that was disconnected only has propane going through it when the water heater is actually being heated by gas (when there is flame heating the water) So in order to check for leaks on the part that i removed the water heater would have to be burning in order to see if there was one. It would be beneficial to check that connection for leaks but since that connection never pressurized it would be unlikely to ever have one as long as it was screwed down snug. For safety sake it should be done regardless. I may annotate the video to include this advice. thank-you
Sometimes the breaker will trip the second you flick on the electric portion of the water heater that is how you definitely know the element has fried. Element can also be bad but still not trip the breaker as in your case. Personally I would just replace the element as they are cheap and if it still is not working after the replacement then you would need to figure out where the problem lies or have it serviced. Good Luck.
thank you so much ive been looking for this info now I know that I have a dual heating system and ive been wondering why I cant hear the gas light YET I have hot water because Im using the electric switch thinking it was the gas...thanks a million!
Thanks for posting this. Probably need to replace ours today. But how did you know it was the element? Our electric no longer heats the water and tested the breakers, none are tripped. Gas heats it just fine. So do I assume it's the element? Thanks!
I had similar problems. But in my case it was the switch on the heater not the element. A relatively simple $5 repair. How did I figure this out? Removed element cover and there was no voltage to the element. Removed the switch and there was voltage to the switch. The switch is in line with the element. Be careful measuring the voltage on these parts. A helper in the coach turning on and off the water heater is essential for safety! Element has lasted 20+ years. I've changed cathode just once. Suburban makes a great water heater. 1996 Mountain Aire
It could be the thermostat (which is above the thing that’s above the switch). It’s behind the black cover with 2 buttons. If it’s worn out, it won’t trip and it’ll continue to heat past 180°. In dealing with something similar myself.
It's not hard my man. If you have a tester test the element while it's on if power is there but it doesn't heat then just go to home Depot or lowes I paid like u bucks for mine and I also got the tool to remove it and it was piece of cake
I tried to remove my element today and I couldn't budge it. I put penetrating oil on the exposed part of the element, but it won't move. Anyone have that problem and how did you remove the element? Don/t want to damage anything in the process so I lose the whole tank for over doing it on removing the element. Thanks in advance.
Yes it did solve my problem, my electrical breaker was being tripped immediately once i turned on the electric water heater, this is how i figured it was the element which it was. Worked fine on propane though.
That Camco element wrench isn't worth A DAMN , IF the heating element is screwed very tight !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You need a thin wall 1 1\2 inch , 6 pt. socket to remove the heating element !!!
So when you plug the camper back in the water heater ( there is no such thing as a hot water heater as if the water was hot already you would not need to heat it 😎 ) doesn’t come back on without water in it and burn up the new element you just replaced
I just used this video to fix my Suburban HW heater on a used 5th wheel I just purchased. This was awesome!!! I knew which tools I needed so I was able to have everything ready to fix my corroded anode and heating element. Thanks for saving me the repair bill that would have probably been stupid high!
You are very welcome. Glad I was able to help!
So how did you know that was what you needed to replace? Mine is shutting the electricity off but it's not throwing the actual water heater breaker in the camper.
Thanks for sharing. I love how the RVing community is always willing to help one another. Appreciate your detailed descriptions.
Great job on this video. You make it clear and concise. No bs like most RV RUclips vids. Thank you!
Amazing video. Showed me exactly what I needed to fix my Surburban SW6 DE. The on/off switch had corroded permanently closed and needed replacing. Since I had to remove the propane tube to get to it I figured I may as well replace the heating element as well, along with the limit switches (19 y/o rv!). Good to go for another 5 years now! Thank you so much, couldn't have done it without this guide.
Thank you SO much! I am a fulltime RV'R and a DIYer. I was gonna just dive head first into this without knowing what all I needed and this helped me more than you know
Great instructional video, thank you. I just ordered the socket you showed - you should include a link for that (and the element) in your description so you can receive a commission. I really like the way you went thru all the safety precautions and actually disconnected the main power. Stay safe.
Great video!!!
Make sure you check for gas leaks after reconnecting the gas line. Not a bad idea to ensure the gas system will auto light and function properly as well.
This step-by-step approach is exactly what I needed, thanks so much!
Appreciate the quick and methodical way you went through this video, as I've never had to change mine, but now know the method of going about changing mine at some point. I change my anode rod annually, tape the threads prior to installation.
Thank you for the kind feedback
Currently trying to figure out which element size I need. Thank you for the video, I had no clue how to change this!!
Thank you so much!! I just fixed my own water heater!! You saved me so much money and gave me the biggest boost of confidence in myself!! Priceless!!
This is great! Exactly what I'm hoping for when making these kinds of videos.
Well done. I appreciate the ambient nature sounds, too!
Great video and instructions. Just did our first camp of the season and forgot to switch the water back into the hot water tank and of course blew the element. Second time I’ve done this 🙄
Fixed my heater today thanks to this video. Much appreciated.
Im glad to hear the video helped!
Great video...I like to use some Teflon plumbers tape over the anode rode threads to make sure it seals. I also use a wire brush to clean off the rusty threads on both male and female sides.
Great video! I have the same water heater, this worked excellent! Thanks!
Teflon tape should be applied to threads for both anode and element replacement. Also, there is a combination wrench available for both anode and element
Thanks. I'll be replacing the element and anode today. I think I'll pressurize and look for leaks before replacing the black cap and propane tube.
I replaced my element and anode. The screws holding my black cap required a 1/4" nut on ratchet to remove. I had to remove the four screws holding the propane valves'(?) bracket to the left and move it a little to get to the upper left screw holding the black cap.
Thumbs Up! Nice video - helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video. You made the project quick and easy.
Thank you, Your video helped me to understand the system. As I am new to the RV thing. However I am loving it. Thanks again for your taking the time to do this video.
Thanks for the video. I'll be replacing the electric element tomorrow now that I see how simple it is to do. In my case mine is tripping the ground fault circuit interrupter of my surge suppressor. Must be water seepage causing that.
This is a great video and thanks for making it. I believe that I have the same problem and will begin basically the same repair tomorrow. Hopefully it will only be the element also and nothing else major. Thanks again!
Recomended applying dialectric grease on wire and screw to keep from rusting. Would have also been a good time to clean rust off threads...brass brush...little bit of preventive maint will help .
Thanks for sharing. I'm about to change out the water heater.
YAY YOU!!! Thanks for this fabulous instructional - really helped me out.
water heater had a leak from the tank. fixed it. then no hot water. coincidence the element went out too? got an anode on the way and now an element. thanks for showing where the element is. take care.
Are the terminals labeled on the element for white and black? Or does it matter which terminal you screw the white/black wire to?
Thank you.
Clear and smooth video
No Teflon tape on element threads? Thanks for video, I was about to order wrong socket for element, doubt standard 1 1/2 would fit down in that recess
There’s a rubber gasket so tape could interfere with that.
ive got a more involved task ahead of me i was hoping someone could shed some light on. i got a trailer that was gutted after a fire and installed all new appliances, wiring converter, everything. well a year later and im now putting in the water heater it was just the shell with an element, i aquired a thermostat (the type thats black with 7 terminals, temp adjust and a red reset button. i know i have to wire it all up but not sure whats going where. both wires off the element attach to respective terminals on the tstat? and a couple wires from the tstat to an empty slot in main breaker. also the wiring that is connected to the wh curcuit is solid copper? should it be stranded gauged wire or is the solid copper supposed to be there? any info appreciated, great vid!
Hey, I replaced my heating element today and it was not my problem. I have researched and it seems as though I have both a LP thermostat and an Electrical thermostat for this unit. I am going to do further test tomorrow on it but I'm 99.9% sure my Electrical Thermostat has gone out. I will be making a video on this subject soon.
I think it is behind the other black cover but i have never looked behind there. Did you replace it and did that fix it?
Thanks for this great video! Could you not just use a standard deep socket to remove the element?
thank you, that was an excellent video step by step
thanks again
Why didn't you flush it out since you had everything pulled out??. Just how bad was the heat element, you did not show it on the camera?
Just what I needed! Thank you : )
Thanks dude. Why is it that guys like myself who have done a ton or repairs and modifications always check to see if someone else has done something I haven't to see it they messed up. Like your taking one for the team if it didn't work out. My excuse is that the rv is my house and if I "F" it up I have to call someone to bail me out.
I am planning to purchase the same model water heater to upgrade from a gas only suburban water heater. Why did you have to replace the heating element? what symptoms did it gave you beside not working that you replaced it? I just want to know so that when mine needs replacement at least I will know what to look for.
So with the element out should the on and off switch be off until i replace the element?
Absolutely!
are high watt density elements compatible with e=the suburban hot water heater?
Thank you! I'm replacing mine this weekend. My breaker does trip.
Thanks for the thoughts you have contributed here.
Fantastic video! Thanks
Thank you for this awesome video! So helpful for me!
Great video!!! Thanks for sharing!!
The sealant used between the outer trim and the water heater was not installed correctly so some of the water draining from the water heater would go past the "seal" toward the wood floor below then between the wall/floor, ending up below the floor on top of the plastic protective barrier just above the frame. This would keep the under side of the floor wet - after 15 years it was too late and I had to replace the entire floor due to rot. I use a shop vac to suck up the water as it exits the water heater now.
same here on 2011 KZ Spree trailer with suburban 6del water heater
We can’t get the heating element out. We bought the camco device & sprayed with PB Blaster but it’s not budging. 😢
THANK YOU,, thanks for your time
Does it matter which wire goes to the certain terminals?
So there's no need to wrap the treads with Teflon tape on either the heating element or the anode rod ?
Nope
The element has a gasket so no tape needed. As for the rod....it’s better to use tape JIC, but you don’t NEED it.
The manual published by Suburban says to use Teflon tape on the anode rod threads. Doesn’t specify for the element threads.
Very helpful video. Thanks for your help.
Informative video, thanks for posting...Easy DIY repair which will save you $100 or so.
Should you use gas-specific Teflon tape on the propane connector when you reinstall it?
Good video and nice Tissot 😉
Good video.
Thanks for posting!
Hot water tank won’t work on 120v anymore & can’t figure out what to replace. I’m trying to figure out if it’s the thermostat/Tstat or the electric element.
I’m sure someone left the electric switch on & burned out. Which one do I need?
Thanks.
Element!
Thanks great video, good job
quick question : how you know what is positive and what s is negative once you screw in the connection cables to the new element?
diego bauzil It doesn't matter. The element is just a big resistor and doesn't care which way electricity runs through it.
thanks man ,another question are you familiar with solar power in an rv? i have small doubts about choosing the right fuses
its A/C not D/C current.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you: Well done!!!!!
Can you please find the model and make of your hot water heater please? I have the same one but the labels are gone and i need to replace parts badly.
Please when you ever open and replace any part of the propane line, pressurize it and then use a solution of soapy water to check the connection for leaks!
This is a valid comment, the line that was disconnected only has propane going through it when the water heater is actually being heated by gas (when there is flame heating the water) So in order to check for leaks on the part that i removed the water heater would have to be burning in order to see if there was one. It would be beneficial to check that connection for leaks but since that connection never pressurized it would be unlikely to ever have one as long as it was screwed down snug. For safety sake it should be done regardless. I may annotate the video to include this advice. thank-you
Thank you so much for these instructions which were most helpful in replacing mine. Burnt it...newbie mistake!
why didn't you put in the anode rod before you put the gas tube back on? would have been a easier install
Thanks for posting this!
Very helpful!!! Thanks.
Great info... Cheers
do u have the part number for the element?
Sometimes the breaker will trip the second you flick on the electric portion of the water heater that is how you definitely know the element has fried. Element can also be bad but still not trip the breaker as in your case. Personally I would just replace the element as they are cheap and if it still is not working after the replacement then you would need to figure out where the problem lies or have it serviced. Good Luck.
thank you so much ive been looking for this info now I know that I have a dual heating system and ive been wondering why I cant hear the gas light YET I have hot water because Im using the electric switch thinking it was the gas...thanks a million!
The anode may be in the back of some older model heaters. I have a Suburban VRV-6X.
Thanks for posting this. Probably need to replace ours today. But how did you know it was the element? Our electric no longer heats the water and tested the breakers, none are tripped. Gas heats it just fine. So do I assume it's the element?
Thanks!
I had similar problems. But in my case it was the switch on the heater not the element. A relatively simple $5 repair. How did I figure this out? Removed element cover and there was no voltage to the element. Removed the switch and there was voltage to the switch. The switch is in line with the element. Be careful measuring the voltage on these parts. A helper in the coach turning on and off the water heater is essential for safety! Element has lasted 20+ years. I've changed cathode just once. Suburban makes a great water heater. 1996 Mountain Aire
@@marlwilson2208 I've replaced 2 in 4 years on my suburban sw10 sooo I'm not sure about your assumptions???
My water heater has an issue of not wanting to shut off once up to temp, how do I fix that?
It could be the thermostat (which is above the thing that’s above the switch). It’s behind the black cover with 2 buttons. If it’s worn out, it won’t trip and it’ll continue to heat past 180°. In dealing with something similar myself.
How did you come to the conclusion that it is the heater element when it could have been something else?
Same question. What led you to conclude that the problem was with the electric heating element vs some other component?
what if the gas end has the the nut COMPLETLY DESTROYED, but still stuck on?
Dremmel tool. Cut it off. Probably need to order a new pipe or figure out how to drill and install a new bolt.
0:33 what a crappy place to put all those switches and controls
Well… it has to be compact.
Thanks
Why did he take the anode rod out? I feel like he could have done all of that without that step.
I turned mine on (electric) was on all day and was bearly warm, think it needs a heating element
someone please answer quick! how many watts is the element I'm going to a home depot to get one it's the same as house heaters
JonathanRinny the oem element is 1440 watts I believe but most replacements are 1500watts. which is what I used in this video.
That's so much! I screwed up and left it ON while I left my pipes open to drain due to freezing weather
I did the same thing!! Hence - I'm watching this to figure out how to fix what I messed up.
It's not hard my man. If you have a tester test the element while it's on if power is there but it doesn't heat then just go to home Depot or lowes I paid like u bucks for mine and I also got the tool to remove it and it was piece of cake
The RV element must 110volt!
Most home water heaters are 220v.
I tried to remove my element today and I couldn't budge it. I put penetrating oil on the exposed part of the element, but it won't move. Anyone have that problem and how did you remove the element? Don/t want to damage anything in the process so I lose the whole tank for over doing it on removing the element. Thanks in advance.
If you cannot remove the screws you will have to cut the wires and rewire them if you are not sure then I would call a tech to look at it.
i had to use a breaker bar on mine.
Did this solve your problem? Do these heaters also have a thermostat on them, or anything else that would need to be replaced after about 7 years?
Yes it did solve my problem, my electrical breaker was being tripped immediately once i turned on the electric water heater, this is how i figured it was the element which it was. Worked fine on propane though.
That Camco element wrench isn't worth A DAMN , IF the heating element is screwed very tight !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You need a thin wall 1 1\2 inch , 6 pt. socket to remove the heating element !!!
Ok!! Ok!! Ok!! Ok!!
so why turn off the hot water heater if your going to unplug the whole RV anyway LOL JK
you will never know... JK
So when you plug the camper back in the water heater ( there is no such thing as a hot water heater as if the water was hot already you would not need to heat it 😎 ) doesn’t come back on without water in it and burn up the new element you just replaced
SORRY Wehere is the gas tank gas a RV203
My propane problem
You gave part # on socket but not element( most important part#)!!!
☘️🍀⭐🌟⭐🌟🌟👍
test
When reassembling the gas line, is it “hand tightened” or screwed all the way back in?
Great video - thanks for sharing!