No joke, when I was searching for his knifemaking content online, all i could find were novels and shooting comp results, and was very confused about how the two guys looked very similiar!
That is pretty much the forge I made about 3 years ago, It works great but I would like to one piece of information here. I made the hole for my burner on the very top of the forge at 90 degrees, I think I would have been much better angling the burner entrance at 35 or 45 degrees, that way you get a better flame swirl and the propane hose does bend as much. Do be aware of the super hot gasses rising directly above of the forge, they work great to kill mosquitoes around a 5 foot radius too!
Using a stabilizer (make your own with fumed silica and water) by spraying it on the wool and curing it with the burners is a good way to go. The silica melts and bonds to the wool, making it much stiffer. This stops the wool from releasing deadly fibers when it it hot AND toughens it up so it stays efficient much longer. Plus, it won’t deform when you layer heavy refractory cement on it.
Hey man i just recently started a job as assistant into making these furnaces. The thing is, the guy is kinda uncautious and when he throw these things on the table a lot of dust comes up! Im using a mask but it doesnt closes too well, i tried 2 masks and it was a little better, but i felt some chest pain later in the day... i got very scared. I dont want to lose this job, but im also an athlete as hobby and damn... im too scared of lung problems!!! Could you give me any advices to protect myself???? Do you think a couple months of exposure is enough to have problems??? I really need the money. Im gonna tell my boss that i believe we should treat it way more carefully otherwise i cannot stay.
I just finished my forge, and now I come here to see you using the same thick wall steel pipe I did, as well as satanite for the hotface. Good to see my choices have been independently verified. (: Question though, how hot do you estimate the exterior of your steel pipe gets? Even with 2-3'' of insulwool I feel like that heat has to leak out eventually.
I've read where guys have use pearlite held together with sodium silicate. Pearlite available in the garden section. Sodium silicate easily made with silica gel (certain cat litters) and NA04. (Lye)
I just started the rebuild on my Swan Competitor forge. I used that forge for production for fifteen years every day and finally decided to replace the refractory. Man those things are built well. The stainless burner tubes are still perfect. I welded in 12 gauge stainless any place that burnt out and I'm looking forward to another 15 years after the rebuild.
Thanks for the awesome video! I have a question about your forge's burners. Are they straight propane? Or do you have oxygen going through too? Or a blower? I just want to be sure the one i build isnt going to piss off the neighblrs by you know.... Blowing up the neighborhood or something.
thank you Walter- that was all the information I needed. One question I have, slightly unrelated is, I see you left both sides of the forge open while you were working at the power hammer. Is there any reason to not close at least one side in order to contain more heat? Thank you in advance if you or others find the time to respond.
Thanks for this. What if you were to cast a cylinder of fire brick, with burner ports molded in that you could just slide into your forge? You could make a silicone mold and reproduce them easily. Would that not work as well as this refractive batting?
I would expect that sort of construction may be too brittle and fragile, I think that these fibrous materials combined with some form of castable probably offers the best balance between a decently durable structure that is still easily and affordably replaced. Honestly, I like the idea of a hybrid best - something like a propane tank pancake-style forge like Walt described in the last video, with the fibrous material walls and individual fire brick in the bottom. I want to say that a cast in ceiling would be nice, but the fibrous material used there too I'm sure would work more than well enough.
seanautube Fire brick will work fine, however it will soak up a lot of heat while the batting acts as more of an insulator making the batting more efficient. There are some videos out that do a good job explaining the different options. Hope this helps.
Actual fire bricks are cheap and easily up to the task. They can also be changed out quickly and easily. Cut your second (inner) piece of ceramic wool 4.5" short and they sit comfortably on the bottom. They're huge heat sinks and will make your forge take longer to come to temp, but I think they're generally worth it. Or make your own brick out of Kast-o-lite 30 (great stuff). And make sure you really coat and seal that ceramic wool. One of the biggest and most often overlooked health hazards of forging.
Try lining your Kaowool with some ITC 100, it will make your forge run hotter on less gas. Cheapo's will say you don't need it or it's no good. Yes it is expensive...
@@danielcrawford7315 That'll work man. You might try using a kiln shelf for the bottom of your forge. It can be removed and cleaned periodically and it makes a nice flat base. The kiln shelf should be coated as well with a thin layer of ITC. You should have a fire breathing dragon provided you don't have too much volume/burner ratio.
No, not instant death. But it is pretty horrible for you. Think about it, you're essentially breathing in microscopic ceramic glass dust. Breathe in enough over time, and you'll need to lug around an oxygen tank for the rest of your life. That's not something I would recommend scoffing at.
I just learned that this gentleman is not only a skilled bladesmith, but also a novelist and a competitive shooter.
No joke, when I was searching for his knifemaking content online, all i could find were novels and shooting comp results, and was very confused about how the two guys looked very similiar!
Not all heroes wear capes
He is also an avid martial artist.
That is pretty much the forge I made about 3 years ago, It works great but I would like to one piece of information here. I made the hole for my burner on the very top of the forge at 90 degrees, I think I would have been much better angling the burner entrance at 35 or 45 degrees, that way you get a better flame swirl and the propane hose does bend as much. Do be aware of the super hot gasses rising directly above of the forge, they work great to kill mosquitoes around a 5 foot radius too!
Using a stabilizer (make your own with fumed silica and water) by spraying it on the wool and curing it with the burners is a good way to go. The silica melts and bonds to the wool, making it much stiffer. This stops the wool from releasing deadly fibers when it it hot AND toughens it up so it stays efficient much longer. Plus, it won’t deform when you layer heavy refractory cement on it.
Hey man i just recently started a job as assistant into making these furnaces. The thing is, the guy is kinda uncautious and when he throw these things on the table a lot of dust comes up! Im using a mask but it doesnt closes too well, i tried 2 masks and it was a little better, but i felt some chest pain later in the day... i got very scared. I dont want to lose this job, but im also an athlete as hobby and damn... im too scared of lung problems!!! Could you give me any advices to protect myself???? Do you think a couple months of exposure is enough to have problems??? I really need the money. Im gonna tell my boss that i believe we should treat it way more carefully otherwise i cannot stay.
Just goes to show that beauty is overrated. That is a butt ugly forge! :-)
Water evaporates: 100C
Forge: 2000C
Walter: "In a mellow slow sort of way" 👍👍
Thanks for the tip.pat from Belgium 🔪⚒️👍
I just finished my forge, and now I come here to see you using the same thick wall steel pipe I did, as well as satanite for the hotface. Good to see my choices have been independently verified. (: Question though, how hot do you estimate the exterior of your steel pipe gets? Even with 2-3'' of insulwool I feel like that heat has to leak out eventually.
I've read where guys have use pearlite held together with sodium silicate. Pearlite available in the garden section. Sodium silicate easily made with silica gel (certain cat litters) and NA04. (Lye)
Thanks Walter, you have given me some great insight on the type of forge that I am going to make! 👍
Have you ever heard of a blacksmith named Charlie Smale?
Rigidizer before Satanite necessary??
Funny, I watched the previous propane forge video last night for the first time, this morning: part 2 XD Timing coudn't have been better!
Ha same here
You’re a pleasure to watch!!
I just started the rebuild on my Swan Competitor forge. I used that forge for production for fifteen years every day and finally decided to replace the refractory. Man those things are built well. The stainless burner tubes are still perfect. I welded in 12 gauge stainless any place that burnt out and I'm looking forward to another 15 years after the rebuild.
Thanks for the awesome video! I have a question about your forge's burners. Are they straight propane? Or do you have oxygen going through too? Or a blower?
I just want to be sure the one i build isnt going to piss off the neighblrs by you know.... Blowing up the neighborhood or something.
Thank you.
Considering y9ou make knives for a living, i am surprised you use a box cutter!!!
thank you Walter- that was all the information I needed. One question I have, slightly unrelated is, I see you left both sides of the forge open while you were working at the power hammer. Is there any reason to not close at least one side in order to contain more heat? Thank you in advance if you or others find the time to respond.
Just love how the aluminum foil sets off the whole forge thing. Wowzer! Looks really hot! 🤣😄😋😎
I vaguely remember a video you made where you said you hate maintenance. Hahahaha. Yup, time to reline my forge as well.
Hey Walter, great video, thank you! I am building a new forge and was wondering are those burners forced air or Venturi?
Thank you sir
A dollar rain pancho will be a lifesaver your welcome
Always informative and fun. Thanks for your time.
Do you need to rigidize before you put the satanite on ?
Thanks for this. What if you were to cast a cylinder of fire brick, with burner ports molded in that you could just slide into your forge? You could make a silicone mold and reproduce them easily. Would that not work as well as this refractive batting?
I would expect that sort of construction may be too brittle and fragile, I think that these fibrous materials combined with some form of castable probably offers the best balance between a decently durable structure that is still easily and affordably replaced.
Honestly, I like the idea of a hybrid best - something like a propane tank pancake-style forge like Walt described in the last video, with the fibrous material walls and individual fire brick in the bottom. I want to say that a cast in ceiling would be nice, but the fibrous material used there too I'm sure would work more than well enough.
seanautube Fire brick will work fine, however it will soak up a lot of heat while the batting acts as more of an insulator making the batting more efficient. There are some videos out that do a good job explaining the different options. Hope this helps.
Ha ! Like a boiled frog !!!
Wondering about using something like concrete tile backer board for the floor?
I use the clay pavers from home depot. Pre heat to make sure they dont explode though.
Actual fire bricks are cheap and easily up to the task. They can also be changed out quickly and easily. Cut your second (inner) piece of ceramic wool 4.5" short and they sit comfortably on the bottom. They're huge heat sinks and will make your forge take longer to come to temp, but I think they're generally worth it. Or make your own brick out of Kast-o-lite 30 (great stuff). And make sure you really coat and seal that ceramic wool. One of the biggest and most often overlooked health hazards of forging.
So I've tried to find Satanite...w o much luck.
So where did you get yours...anybody?
Blessed days sirSir, Crawford out
www.hightemptools.com/refractorycoatings.html
@@Velitesmaniple . Thank you sirSir, I appreciate your help alot.
Blessed days sirSir, Crawford out
Try lining your Kaowool with some ITC 100, it will make your forge run hotter on less gas. Cheapo's will say you don't need it or it's no good. Yes it is expensive...
@@johnburens3395 , ohhhh yeah! Already bought Mizzou and ITC 100HT. Buy once cry once right!!?
@@danielcrawford7315 That'll work man. You might try using a kiln shelf for the bottom of your forge. It can be removed and cleaned periodically and it makes a nice flat base. The kiln shelf should be coated as well with a thin layer of ITC. You should have a fire breathing dragon provided you don't have too much volume/burner ratio.
How many people are going to freak out about the Kaowool pretty much being instant death if you inhale it?
Lol seriously
Same people who scream about audio on videos hurting their ears because they're wearing earbuds/headphones
Just wear a mask when installing it. Once it's in, there's not gonna be many airborne fibres. Caring about your health doesn't make you a pansy.
No, not instant death. But it is pretty horrible for you. Think about it, you're essentially breathing in microscopic ceramic glass dust. Breathe in enough over time, and you'll need to lug around an oxygen tank for the rest of your life. That's not something I would recommend scoffing at.
Got one...
"irritates your throat and skin, cover it up"
... but what about on top of your head, Walter?
Bang Bang Bang real bladesmiths wear Kaowool hats in winter
first
videos like this are invaluable to me
yeah, I'm a noob. We need videos.