You not only pulled off a flawless almost impossible repair on a device most people would throw away, but also used a simple very effective cellphone camera lens hack to do it with!! Texas hat tip to you my friend!
absolutely amazing! I've just tried to solder a flex using (I think) exactly the same wire you used, so I can appreciate just how tiny those connections are. I didn't get it to work, but you've given me some tips and new hope. Thank you for taking the trouble to video tape this!! It's a great contribution.
it's a nice thing, to watch you repair this LCD just for the repair thick, because you can, eaven if it's may have not many use this days. Nicely done Pro.
Yay someone who shakes as much as I do! So tricky doing these repairs sometimes. Thank you for this older video. It should help me out to fix a few flex cables
Great job. There is another method I've used repairing similar flex to LCD's. Get some repair compound for automotive defoggers. It's a liquid solution with a copper base in it. It is similar to what the original material is on the ribbon. You can get a needle and dip it in this material and just paint on a new lead. The stuff is used for rear window defoggers and is designed just for this purpose.
I had a conductive pen somewhere that I've used before on a larger ribbon, but I have no idea where it went. I don't know how much good it would have done me in this case with the traces as small as they were and the fact that the ribbon was torn, but it wouldn't hurt to try at some point.
all the respect for your patience, persistence and practical ideas, I very much admire what you did with simple tools, i specifically liked your double sided tape idea to lay the wires in one go. Thank you for sharing.
Nice work solving problems... I liked the way you explaining how to do it also I know how it is frustrating after you thought that you have finished your work you got another problem to fix it either at last. Thanks for the video.
Well done! Good to watch your vid. I have an LCD problem with a watch. Not quite the same but to see you painstakingly try to fix something just because you thought you could is oh SO good for my resolve. Many thanks. X
difficult job ..well done. if you removed the excess solder from the soldering iron then it would just draw the excess solder from the flexible PCB onto the iron's tip thus decreasng any chance of the tracks on the flexible PCB lifting off because of excess heat This technique always works for me !
Wow. Very inspiring video. Just got a usb microscope for seeing and soldering smd connections. did not realize how to push the "art of soldering" to that level. nice job.
Nice one. Nicely done, but the catch is when you want to use the same method using wires for tablet FFCs and FPCs that are 0.1 mm wide, you often get bridges and wires getting soldered together. I have given it a try and it's a frustration. I gave it up and resorted to using some junk FFCs to carve out what I needed to solder to bridge the failed connections.
Nice work ! I have a similar repair lurking in my future. I have a 24" LCD monitor, nice high resolution, before all went to 1920. The florescent tubes went bad, and I tried to fix it, in the process I ripped a good 1/2 inch of ribbon cable, man I hate that stuff ! lol, but with your video doing exactly what I planned to fix it with, I have more confidence it may work :)
Excellent work, man! Very useful video. Thanks for all the hustle to put this on. And also - great work with the camera lens. I was surprised to see that the autofocus works even with an attachment. But agin - thumbs up!
Great Job! - Challenging task, but you pulled it off with old-school discipline. I wanted to encourage you because your effort is rare now, but was common back in the day. Most will say, "chuck it, buy a new one", but people don't realize that your perserverance is worth 10x the cost of the device. Keep it up, your son will see the effort, and will learn even better stuff. And remember, the occasional goof is an inexpensive lesson compared to the expertise of developing good methodology.
I've used a fiberglass pencil in the past for scraping FFC's coating off. They're a little easier to control but you still have to be careful not to go too far with them. Nice work though it was a little scary there for a second lol.
Nice work! I came here to see how you removed the coating on the cable, and I see you're also using a knife. I'm looking to re-do the soldering job on my monitor. A little tip if you're soldering very small traces, you can use the coil wire from the vibration motor of a broken phone. I learned that from Jessa Jones on iPad Rehab. She used that to repair long screw damage on an iPhone motherboard.
Good stuff brings back memories lol used to work in an electronics factory American as well lol Jabil was the name, I'm curious when you did the repair did you use your phone the whole time if so did to have it on a stand or something? We used our microscopes 7x magnification, when you weren't happy and you kept going back and fiddling brought back memories lol sometimes best left alone, but you need to get it right lol, also someone inspected our work afterwards lol no pressure. Lastly where do you get those magnifiers for the phone do they work with any phone, Thanks enjoyed the video.
Let´s see here, your kid busts the flex on the player and we get the punishment of watching you repair that thing for 22 minutes?!! Hey, its cool, its exactly what i was looking for, a true scenario with a damaged flex and a guy with extra patience to fix and explain it all in an interrupted video. So now I know what a pain in the A is to repair a broken flex.
well done on the vid. got a question though if you don't mind. will this process work with the Mylar type ribbon cable? I'm working on a dish washer front panel and it has a Mylar type cable and a circuit pen isn't cutting it. My soldering station can do low heat but I'm scared to touch the Mylar with it for fear of melting the Mylar. would this process work if I used a heat disapater like what you did. because I could solder small wires to the trace but fear that if I did this it would melt as soon as I touch it and the circuit pen takes too long and if you wipe away ruins the remaining trace
I'm not sure that it's possible to successfully solder to that type of ribbon since it's way more delicate, even if you used some sort of heat dissipation. It would be more likely if the traces were actual metal instead of the deposited stuff. Might be better off trying to use some conductive adhesive? I've never tried repairing that sort of ribbon, so I don't have any really good suggestions. Sorry :(
nice work! i have a problem of Display which the backlight is ok, but no signal comes up. so i check again the inside signal parts or other component( including condenser etc.) thanks again.
You are simple awesome!!!! Neat job!.. One suggestion though you cud have used hot air blow like those that we wud use for Plcc soldering when your bits budged off. Nevertheless absolutely amazing video
A nice skill for your own projects. But to learn this it will take much more time, and thus more repair costs than just buying a new panel for a repair job :).
Sometimes it is possible to visually see cracks, especially in areas where the flex might be bent or frequently bends in use. To be sure, you'd have to be able to test continuity from one end to the other, and depending on what type of flex it is and what/how it attaches to things, may or may not be possible to test easily. If it goes to a connector on each end, then it's definitely easy. If it's permanently attached to an LCD like in the video, then we'd have to scratch a bit to get to the trace, which may damage it even further. I think any type of flux meant for smd work should be adequate for this. I don't think I'd try to use rosin flux though.
+Boa String Field for the close up shots it looked like a red Google Nexus 5 with some macro lens attached that he pulled out of a scanner for the close up shots.
I have an old Asus Transformer tablet that has not been used in almost 3 years, so I just opened it and realized that the charging flex cable is damaged... I would like to do something like this to the flex cable, but I lack the soldering tools. :(
So buy a soldering iron on eBay, get some solder from a local electronics shop and practice. A tip: keeping your hand on the table while maneuvering with the soldering iron makes your hand movements MUCH steadier...
CoolKoon Well, I considered buying the soldering iron and solder but it was more expensive than buying the brand new flex. So I decided to buy the brand new flex cable... Anyways I would like to buy a soldering iron later, I just need to save some $$$, because the one I liked was almost a hundred bucks... What brand and/or model would you recommend?
Perhaps you should have glued a plastic film in the back to add support to the new copper wire bridges, any body else can comment on this idea? Thanks.
don't buy ROHS solder, it melt at higher temperature. Use solder with lead in it. for the flux, NC-559-ASM from Amtech do the job well for 2,5$ shipped on ebay
What about some form of adhesive with conductive properties that would be ,for me at least ,a better choice for really intricate "tight space" etc applications?
Wouldn't it be easier to work with isolated wires instead so that you don't have to worry about accidental bridges? Please let me know what you think about that. I LOVE THIS VIDEO
Waaa, man, ure THE man, I gotta try to fix my Trackpad flex for my macbook pro, almost 40usd, ugh, but is gonna be hardcore, its like super thin spaces, still gonna save the 40 for the new one if I cant, lol. Good video.
is this lcd from a hubsan H501S transmitter by any chance ? I split mine and could not repair it. as it was split near the glass, very dense tracks could just make them out under magnifying glass
The one in the video is from a device called an "Instoremercial", but after looking up the model number you mentioned along with "LCD" on google, it looks like it's pretty identical! I wouldn't be too surprised if it is the same model LCD assembly since it's practically a general purpose LCD. Doesn't seem to be anything special about it. An identical looking LCD came up on eBay when I searched for your model number. I don't think those traces near the glass would be repairable without some really fancy equipment. Luckily this one wasn't so bad.
Hi. Can you do this with a white flex/ribbon cable? Won't the plastic melt? Also what's the temperature of the tip? Can you do that with a hot air workstation or a solder is better? Thank you. God bless, Proverbs 31
White ribbons are considerably more difficult to fix because the white plastic will certainly melt easier. Hot air is probably not a good idea because the plastic will melt before solder and it will contract and bunch up. I would stick with a fine tip set at a temperature as close to what you need for the type of solder you're using and some kapton tape to keep the work steady. I don't know exactly what the temperature I was using here was because I'm pretty sure my station is not calibrated or measuring properly, it's supposedly set to about 400C, but I don't think it's actually that hot because I had trouble melting solder at settings lower than that.
Thanks. I think with the white flex cable I'll try to scrape the insulation and hopefully expose the fingers (it was cut off due to metal fatigue). By the way how much heat (Celsius) can subcomponents take? How much for say smd capacitors, smd resistors? How about for the non smd capacitors and resistors? How long can they take their maximum temperature before they break or burn. I'm curious coz' I have a temperature probe I can use to accurately see when I should push it harder and when to hold back a little when it comes to temp.
If you want accurate values for how much heat a component will take and for how long, you'd need to see their datasheets, but from personal experience, I've exposed some parts to over 400C with hot air for short bursts just to get them to release quickly, definitely not ideal for everything though, just depends on what you're trying to accomplish. For example, a chip resistor may be fine with that amount of heat, but an SMD LED may melt too fast. Generally you'd want to stick with a temperature setting of close to that required for the type of solder used for only a few seconds at a time. Desoldering tools are great for preventing having to heat components too much as you can remove most of the solder the moment it flows. It's very difficult to tell you exactly how much heat you'll need for any general task as board material, density, amount of copper on the board, etc, will all affect heat transfer. So for a very heavy, dense board you may need a good amount of heat, where for a thinner, less populated board you may need to be quick with low heat to avoid damage to parts/board. Climate also plays a big role. On cold days I have a hard time doing work on boards and often I'll warm up what I'm going to be working on beforehand. On warmer days the same task would usually not be a big deal. A lot of it comes down to just careful experimenting and gaining experience.
Thanks. This heat management, it's truly at art form too. I hope they'll invent someday built-in a sensor that'll tell you how much heat for how long is needed based on density and the material you're heating.
Wow, that was painful to watch. I'm joking. I liked it and also work on projects like these. Especially enjoy the small solder work but anything electrical is fun to work on. Maybe I am at about 50/50 for actual fixes. So 50% I fix, 25% I can not and 25% I make worse. BTW, I ended up here looking for a fix for lcd ribbon to glass repair without a pulse generator. Thanks for the video.
You not only pulled off a flawless almost impossible repair on a device most people would throw away, but also used a simple very effective cellphone camera lens hack to do it with!! Texas hat tip to you my friend!
Thanks!
Dude, Just saw this, I have 35 years as a tool builder! You did awesome, Great job,,,,Thanks for putting yourself out there and doing this video.
duble picture me kaun sa pin katna hota hai
absolutely amazing! I've just tried to solder a flex using (I think) exactly the same wire you used, so I can appreciate just how tiny those connections are. I didn't get it to work, but you've given me some tips and new hope. Thank you for taking the trouble to video tape this!! It's a great contribution.
I watched the entire vid and was like, "hell yeah", when you got it working.
it's a nice thing, to watch you repair this LCD just for the repair thick, because you can, eaven if it's may have not many use this days. Nicely done Pro.
Thank you!
Yay someone who shakes as much as I do! So tricky doing these repairs sometimes. Thank you for this older video. It should help me out to fix a few flex cables
Superb work on the repair and the videoing to show how it was successfully done
Great job. There is another method I've used repairing similar flex to LCD's. Get some repair compound for automotive defoggers. It's a liquid solution with a copper base in it. It is similar to what the original material is on the ribbon. You can get a needle and dip it in this material and just paint on a new lead. The stuff is used for rear window defoggers and is designed just for this purpose.
I had a conductive pen somewhere that I've used before on a larger ribbon, but I have no idea where it went. I don't know how much good it would have done me in this case with the traces as small as they were and the fact that the ribbon was torn, but it wouldn't hurt to try at some point.
all the respect for your patience, persistence and practical ideas, I very much admire what you did with simple tools, i specifically liked your double sided tape idea to lay the wires in one go. Thank you for sharing.
Nice work solving problems... I liked the way you explaining how to do it also I know how it is frustrating after you thought that you have finished your work you got another problem to fix it either at last.
Thanks for the video.
Well done! Good to watch your vid. I have an LCD problem with a watch. Not quite the same but to see you painstakingly try to fix something just because you thought you could is oh SO good for my resolve. Many thanks. X
Mcgyver....is that you? Awesome job. Loved the tiny lens. Thanks for sharing.
difficult job ..well done.
if you removed the excess solder from the soldering iron then it would just draw the excess solder from the flexible PCB onto the iron's tip thus decreasng any chance of the tracks on the flexible PCB lifting off because of excess heat
This technique always works for me !
I really like how you are showing us how to repurpose parts from other units to make repairs!,,, very good!,,
Wow. Very inspiring video. Just got a usb microscope for seeing and soldering smd connections. did not realize how to push the "art of soldering" to that level. nice job.
You must be really patient to do that man, wow, you did awesome fix, thumbs up for you dude!
Whoa...I wouldn't dare to do that even in my dreams. Great clinical precision !
Nice one. Nicely done, but the catch is when you want to use the same method using wires for tablet FFCs and FPCs that are 0.1 mm wide, you often get bridges and wires getting soldered together. I have given it a try and it's a frustration. I gave it up and resorted to using some junk FFCs to carve out what I needed to solder to bridge the failed connections.
Somebody mentioned using wire from a cell phone motor before since it's really thin, but I haven't tried it myself. Might be worth a shot.
Amazing precision, even with the shaking👍 Great video bro... Respect from Namibia👏👏
I don't normally comment on vids, but wanted to commend you on posting a good vid and on a job well done.
Nice work ! I have a similar repair lurking in my future. I have a 24" LCD monitor, nice high resolution, before all went to 1920. The florescent tubes went bad, and I tried to fix it, in the process I ripped a good 1/2 inch of ribbon cable, man I hate that stuff ! lol, but with your video doing exactly what I planned to fix it with, I have more confidence it may work :)
Man that was a great video. I was so happy for the ending as if I was the one working on the issue. Great Job!
Thanks, man!
@@ThatElectronicsFool hey can you fix the flex cable on my phone?
Excellent content. By chance, could this same technique be used to repair a small tear in a flex cable for a video doorbell?
Absolutely, most traces just need a jumper wire soldered on to restore the connection.
you really have a patience nice work bro keep it up thats a real life situation keep the videos coming , nice work .
Use green solder mask, baked on UV light, to fixate all in place, so it doesnt move or break.
Excellent work, man! Very useful video. Thanks for all the hustle to put this on. And also - great work with the camera lens. I was surprised to see that the autofocus works even with an attachment. But agin - thumbs up!
Thanks!
I love those little lenses for small stuff like this. They really come in handy.
Thanks for this video. You've inspired me to take on the task to fix LCD flex cable tabs.
Great Job! - Challenging task, but you pulled it off with old-school discipline. I wanted to encourage you because your effort is rare now, but was common back in the day. Most will say, "chuck it, buy a new one", but people don't realize that your perserverance is worth 10x the cost of the device. Keep it up, your son will see the effort, and will learn even better stuff. And remember, the occasional goof is an inexpensive lesson compared to the expertise of developing good methodology.
Scratching off the coating works best with a glass fiber pencil.
Really glad to hear that it worked ❤
you definitely deserve an award
brilliant problem solver and microsurgical skills !!
I've used a fiberglass pencil in the past for scraping FFC's coating off. They're a little easier to control but you still have to be careful not to go too far with them. Nice work though it was a little scary there for a second lol.
Great job!! Maybe a Valium to help with the hand shaking. 😄 haha
Nice work! I came here to see how you removed the coating on the cable, and I see you're also using a knife. I'm looking to re-do the soldering job on my monitor.
A little tip if you're soldering very small traces, you can use the coil wire from the vibration motor of a broken phone. I learned that from Jessa Jones on iPad Rehab. She used that to repair long screw damage on an iPhone motherboard.
Will definitely keep in mind wire from a motor if I ever need something really small! Thanks for the tip!
Everything is fine, it is a problem for me to connect the roads. I have a very difficult time pulling the yellow copper cables.
Great job very well done! just shows what we can do when we try.
Nice work Bro., little tips to make your hand more steady is you need to have your side palm to be on the table or rest bench or something...
I have to ask,,,is all this work worth saving the unit?,,, the Tech lesson is worth it to me!,,,
Quite some excellence and pretty sympathetic.
Thanks for doing this video.
damn ,you really as patient as a tree ,nice surgeon job
Agree 100%
I clapped at the end. Well done!
I don't normally comment on vids, but wanted to commend you on posting a good vid and on a really well done job and i'm your fans now.
Nice! Maybe it would work with conducdive silver too?
Can you name the tools that you used to fix it?
Good stuff brings back memories lol used to work in an electronics factory American as well lol Jabil was the name, I'm curious when you did the repair did you use your phone the whole time if so did to have it on a stand or something? We used our microscopes 7x magnification, when you weren't happy and you kept going back and fiddling brought back memories lol sometimes best left alone, but you need to get it right lol, also someone inspected our work afterwards lol no pressure. Lastly where do you get those magnifiers for the phone do they work with any phone, Thanks enjoyed the video.
That was a real good one!!!! Congrats! what temperature do you use with your tip?
Nice work thanks for share I need the zoom lens and a good hand pulse and view, thanks god bless you
Let´s see here, your kid busts the flex on the player and we get the punishment of watching you repair that thing for 22 minutes?!! Hey, its cool, its exactly what i was looking for, a true scenario with a damaged flex and a guy with extra patience to fix and explain it all in an interrupted video. So now I know what a pain in the A is to repair a broken flex.
This was my own punishment for leaving it somewhere he could reach it. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Do all LCD ribbon cables have the same pinout?
well done on the vid. got a question though if you don't mind. will this process work with the Mylar type ribbon cable? I'm working on a dish washer front panel and it has a Mylar type cable and a circuit pen isn't cutting it. My soldering station can do low heat but I'm scared to touch the Mylar with it for fear of melting the Mylar. would this process work if I used a heat disapater like what you did. because I could solder small wires to the trace but fear that if I did this it would melt as soon as I touch it and the circuit pen takes too long and if you wipe away ruins the remaining trace
I'm not sure that it's possible to successfully solder to that type of ribbon since it's way more delicate, even if you used some sort of heat dissipation. It would be more likely if the traces were actual metal instead of the deposited stuff.
Might be better off trying to use some conductive adhesive? I've never tried repairing that sort of ribbon, so I don't have any really good suggestions.
Sorry :(
nice work! i have a problem of Display which the backlight is ok, but no signal comes up. so i check again the inside signal parts or other component( including condenser etc.)
thanks again.
I love you lense ... can you explain where you got it from .. :)
Great man. This is really going to help me out when fixing my camera.
Hands are shaking but not the motivation. Kudos
I'm watching thsi video because I need to repair a flex wire for a tablet. Thanks!!!
You are simple awesome!!!! Neat job!.. One suggestion though you cud have used hot air blow like those that we wud use for Plcc soldering when your bits budged off. Nevertheless absolutely amazing video
Wow man, you did it. that's an amazing work!! Thanks a lot for sharing!!
A nice skill for your own projects. But to learn this it will take much more time, and thus more repair costs than just buying a new panel for a repair job :).
tin the wires first next time? good job either way!
Nice vid, thanks for that. Can you tell me what are you using in min14.56 to clean?
How to know if flex cable has tiny wires broken, can they be visually inspected? What flux you use or recommend for this kind of work?
Sometimes it is possible to visually see cracks, especially in areas where the flex might be bent or frequently bends in use. To be sure, you'd have to be able to test continuity from one end to the other, and depending on what type of flex it is and what/how it attaches to things, may or may not be possible to test easily. If it goes to a connector on each end, then it's definitely easy. If it's permanently attached to an LCD like in the video, then we'd have to scratch a bit to get to the trace, which may damage it even further.
I think any type of flux meant for smd work should be adequate for this. I don't think I'd try to use rosin flux though.
Hi there, may I know what is the size or specification of thin wire that you use for repairing the flat flex LCD cable?
great video. I'm not sure if you've posted it in another video but what did you use as a magnifying lens for your phone camera? thanks...
A lens from an old flatbed scanner. They're all pretty similar and they work quite well as a ghetto microscope on a phone.
good to know, thanks.
Cool beans. Thanks for sharing. Did you consider using conductive ink at any time?
just watched your vid wonderfull job what tempurature was the soldering iron
Nice job bro thanks for the idea
That is very impressive sir.
lens name
.and where you buy ..i need it
what camera you using...
very good camera in detail.
+Boa String Field for the close up shots it looked like a red Google Nexus 5 with some macro lens attached that he pulled out of a scanner for the close up shots.
Use a grinding pen to scrape off the solder mask.
Where did you get that mobiles magnifier , source ?
It was removed from an old flatbed scanner.
good teaching dear i have same problem with my tablet too now i can re solve it thankxxx
You can put some nail polish to isolate those wires next time.
That's what I call ingenuity with the lens. I agree with Ray Antony. :)) Is there a flexible epoxy you could have used or a glue to cover the wires?
Great job. We'll done
I have an old Asus Transformer tablet that has not been used in almost 3 years, so I just opened it and realized that the charging flex cable is damaged... I would like to do something like this to the flex cable, but I lack the soldering tools. :(
So buy a soldering iron on eBay, get some solder from a local electronics shop and practice. A tip: keeping your hand on the table while maneuvering with the soldering iron makes your hand movements MUCH steadier...
CoolKoon Well, I considered buying the soldering iron and solder but it was more expensive than buying the brand new flex. So I decided to buy the brand new flex cable... Anyways I would like to buy a soldering iron later, I just need to save some $$$, because the one I liked was almost a hundred bucks... What brand and/or model would you recommend?
Thanks! It gives me an idea how i will my fix my broken lcd flex.
You are the best my friend
And I think it could be better if you use a little glow on
😉
Nice work! What magnifier did you use?
It was a lens taken out of a flatbed scanner.
Perhaps you should have glued a plastic film in the back to add support to the new copper wire bridges, any body else can comment on this idea? Thanks.
amazing job and perseverance! Well done!
bady you have did a fine job because i am electronic technician i know how hard job it is .
no other alternative to solder ?also what type solder/flux do u use?
don't buy ROHS solder, it melt at higher temperature. Use solder with lead in it.
for the flux, NC-559-ASM from Amtech do the job well for 2,5$ shipped on ebay
What about some form of adhesive with conductive properties that would be ,for me at least ,a better choice for really intricate "tight space" etc applications?
Dan Kirchner it depend on what you need to repair but for a flat-flex ? i highly doubt that :/
ok ,just asking
Dan Kirchner np
Hello from brasil.
Is it a tv?
👍😊
I love this shit, these kind of challenges are so much fun :) good video , good work
Wouldn't it be easier to work with isolated wires instead so that you don't have to worry about accidental bridges? Please let me know what you think about that. I LOVE THIS VIDEO
You can also use plastic wire without any copper to avoid any bridge...
But.. It won't be as good if you also wanna make the device working again.
Waaa, man, ure THE man, I gotta try to fix my Trackpad flex for my macbook pro, almost 40usd, ugh, but is gonna be hardcore, its like super thin spaces, still gonna save the 40 for the new one if I cant, lol.
Good video.
is this lcd from a hubsan H501S transmitter by any chance ? I split mine and could not repair it. as it was split near the glass, very dense tracks could just make them out under magnifying glass
The one in the video is from a device called an "Instoremercial", but after looking up the model number you mentioned along with "LCD" on google, it looks like it's pretty identical! I wouldn't be too surprised if it is the same model LCD assembly since it's practically a general purpose LCD. Doesn't seem to be anything special about it.
An identical looking LCD came up on eBay when I searched for your model number.
I don't think those traces near the glass would be repairable without some really fancy equipment. Luckily this one wasn't so bad.
9:26 better for this work is a FABER CASTELL 30103.
Hi. Can you do this with a white flex/ribbon cable? Won't the plastic melt? Also what's the temperature of the tip? Can you do that with a hot air workstation or a solder is better? Thank you. God bless, Proverbs 31
White ribbons are considerably more difficult to fix because the white plastic will certainly melt easier. Hot air is probably not a good idea because the plastic will melt before solder and it will contract and bunch up. I would stick with a fine tip set at a temperature as close to what you need for the type of solder you're using and some kapton tape to keep the work steady. I don't know exactly what the temperature I was using here was because I'm pretty sure my station is not calibrated or measuring properly, it's supposedly set to about 400C, but I don't think it's actually that hot because I had trouble melting solder at settings lower than that.
Thanks. I think with the white flex cable I'll try to scrape the insulation and hopefully expose the fingers (it was cut off due to metal fatigue). By the way how much heat (Celsius) can subcomponents take? How much for say smd capacitors, smd resistors? How about for the non smd capacitors and resistors? How long can they take their maximum temperature before they break or burn. I'm curious coz' I have a temperature probe I can use to accurately see when I should push it harder and when to hold back a little when it comes to temp.
If you want accurate values for how much heat a component will take and for how long, you'd need to see their datasheets, but from personal experience, I've exposed some parts to over 400C with hot air for short bursts just to get them to release quickly, definitely not ideal for everything though, just depends on what you're trying to accomplish. For example, a chip resistor may be fine with that amount of heat, but an SMD LED may melt too fast. Generally you'd want to stick with a temperature setting of close to that required for the type of solder used for only a few seconds at a time. Desoldering tools are great for preventing having to heat components too much as you can remove most of the solder the moment it flows.
It's very difficult to tell you exactly how much heat you'll need for any general task as board material, density, amount of copper on the board, etc, will all affect heat transfer. So for a very heavy, dense board you may need a good amount of heat, where for a thinner, less populated board you may need to be quick with low heat to avoid damage to parts/board. Climate also plays a big role. On cold days I have a hard time doing work on boards and often I'll warm up what I'm going to be working on beforehand. On warmer days the same task would usually not be a big deal. A lot of it comes down to just careful experimenting and gaining experience.
Thanks. This heat management, it's truly at art form too. I hope they'll invent someday built-in a sensor that'll tell you how much heat for how long is needed based on density and the material you're heating.
You are my hero bro!
You were doing so well
The sand paper 👍🏼👍🏼
Wow, that was painful to watch. I'm joking. I liked it and also work on projects like these. Especially enjoy the small solder work but anything electrical is fun to work on. Maybe I am at about 50/50 for actual fixes. So 50% I fix, 25% I can not and 25% I make worse. BTW, I ended up here looking for a fix for lcd ribbon to glass repair without a pulse generator. Thanks for the video.
I hear you on that 50, 25, 25. lol
I figured, it's already broken, might as well try.
Thanks for watching!
really hard , i have the same problem in one mobile lcd i have and i things its almost non posible to fix it
Wow. Very good!
You are the real MVP
I can see the color change as you expose the copper leads!,,,
I love learning these things!,,,