G'Day Tom, love the running commentary style of your video's while you digest the problems and think aloud to us about possible solutions. My ears always prick up when I hear the words "9F". My father built a 3 1/2" gauge 9F starting in the early 60's and finishing it in the mid to late 60's. Unfortunately LBSC stopped halfway through the build series which left a lot of builders in the lurch until Martin Evans took up the cause and continued the series. My father was very fortunate in that he was able to correspond directly with "Curly" through the mail and continue his build. They did become good acquaintances through their correspondence and dad always looked forward to the "unique" guidance Curly offered to his many questions. I think it would have been one of the first privately built, if not the first Evening Star live steam model to grace the tracks. If your interested you can see photo's at the end of this video. ruclips.net/video/G9C4v1egELA/видео.html Cam
That’s a nice looking 9f, I remember one of our members built one in 3 1/2, I’m not sure where it ended up though. That’s a really cool story with the added insight from curly himself.
I would always try silver solder first, fortunately a front tube plate should be easier to get clean that the firebox. Thing is once there’s any form of soft solder on the boiler then it’s impossible to ever do another silver solder repair.
Some do, you can never know until it’s hot, this does seem to have slowed down a bit since first pumping it up when the superheaters were in. Things like a stay with a river head I’d be reasonably happy with, but this was a bit much and it’s a structural joint.
My Molly doesn't have any Eccentric Grub Screws, so I will have to adjust the throw of the piston rods (combined with the rotation of the fixed eccentrics on the Drive to Wheels), to get the timing right. The fact that my Chassis has already previously run on air, makes me totally hopeful of even better running. ruclips.net/video/i39udVujsYs/видео.htmlsi=RaWALYBoqoaSC9kH
If it’s run before and there’s been no change to the eccentrics then it should only be valve position that needs adjusting, I’d be surprised if there’s no way to adjust them though.
it's a little more complicated without Grub screws, but the Chassis will be nice and clean, so it will be like adjusting a clock or something. I will just do one cylinder at a time and test run on air.
Cheers, Tom. Thanks!
Excellent video Tom you Certainly know your stuff
Still a lot to learn, but I try my best to learn what I can from those around me, but you never learn if you don’t get stuck in and have a go… lol.
@@TomsWorkshop42 very true I’ve learnt a lot from watching your videos and are having a go with my new Loco thank you for posting brilliant subjects
G'Day Tom, love the running commentary style of your video's while you digest the problems and think aloud to us about possible solutions. My ears always prick up when I hear the words "9F". My father built a 3 1/2" gauge 9F starting in the early 60's and finishing it in the mid to late 60's. Unfortunately LBSC stopped halfway through the build series which left a lot of builders in the lurch until Martin Evans took up the cause and continued the series. My father was very fortunate in that he was able to correspond directly with "Curly" through the mail and continue his build. They did become good acquaintances through their correspondence and dad always looked forward to the "unique" guidance Curly offered to his many questions. I think it would have been one of the first privately built, if not the first Evening Star live steam model to grace the tracks. If your interested you can see photo's at the end of this video.
ruclips.net/video/G9C4v1egELA/видео.html
Cam
How wonderful to have contact with Curly Lawrence, I would love to have met him. The father of live steam.
That’s a nice looking 9f, I remember one of our members built one in 3 1/2, I’m not sure where it ended up though.
That’s a really cool story with the added insight from curly himself.
@@TomsWorkshop42 hi Tom it lily
@@Lily-daphne hiya. Are you ok.
Yeah u
Will you use comsol on the tube plate or try silver solder?
I would always try silver solder first, fortunately a front tube plate should be easier to get clean that the firebox. Thing is once there’s any form of soft solder on the boiler then it’s impossible to ever do another silver solder repair.
Do some of these minor leaks "take up" when the boiler is in steam?
Some do, you can never know until it’s hot, this does seem to have slowed down a bit since first pumping it up when the superheaters were in. Things like a stay with a river head I’d be reasonably happy with, but this was a bit much and it’s a structural joint.
My Molly doesn't have any Eccentric Grub Screws, so I will have to adjust the throw of the piston rods (combined with the rotation of the fixed eccentrics on the Drive to Wheels), to get the timing right.
The fact that my Chassis has already previously run on air, makes me totally hopeful of even better running.
ruclips.net/video/i39udVujsYs/видео.htmlsi=RaWALYBoqoaSC9kH
If it’s run before and there’s been no change to the eccentrics then it should only be valve position that needs adjusting, I’d be surprised if there’s no way to adjust them though.
it's a little more complicated without Grub screws, but the Chassis will be nice and clean, so it will be like adjusting a clock or something.
I will just do one cylinder at a time and test run on air.
Bath of citric acid and boiler should come out clean