Link to KSGER T12 V3.1S Soldering Station: www.banggood.com/custlink/DvDdMwHoIY IMPORTANT MARCH 2021 UPDATE! The V3.1S no longer supports dual display options as I show in this review. There is no more date/clock screen and the RTC battery has therefore been removed. If you want the time screen on your T12 station, get the 2.1S version: www.banggood.com/custlink/GDKDEw6B1K
3 года назад
I wish I'd looked at the comments before purchasing it. There is an RTC battery in mine, but display1 and display2 show the same thing. I can't get the power level (in %) to display. I was interested in that. My unit is shown to be manufactured on 2021-01 on the sticker.
one more thing. this bangood is it from china? any problems getting orders.. and could you link some links to the smaller handle. Or do i buy smaller tips? not sure what ones to get..
I was looking for a better soldering iron than the Antex M12 I've been using for decades and bought a KSGER T12 v3.1s based on this review. Happy so far. Thanks for producing such clear, informative and concise reviews that get quickly to the point.
I ordered one of these. Supposed to be here today. Edit: MUCH better than the 936D I just had that died within 10 mins. It has the silicone cord and seems to work just fine. It also came with a white handle w/ black rubber sleeve. I had a Weller WLC100 before the 936D so that's all I've ever used until the KSGER. This thing is TONS better than the Weller. Though I have it as a backup since it just works.
I got one based on the reviews but mine was defective. It overheated til the tips were blazing red. Got a replacement and it worked for a couple of weeks then it started overheating also. I returned it and bought a Hakko 951. Love it.
I am returning mine tomorrow for the very same reason, the tip went glowing red, happened twice already , too bad I really liked the unit as a whole but can't have a defective one in my house.
@@SolRC Heaviest I've done is 12ga and it handled it without any problem. It heats to 480, so I think that with the righ tip, 10ga shouldn't be a problem either.
I just got one today (v2.1) opened it up for inspection and found the wires connecting the power board to the front panel mashed between the transformer, battery, and the lid. if you get one be sure to open it up and move the battery and be sure the wires are not pinched in the stack
GREAT GREAT GREAT review, as the previous version. Really amazing your explanation, easy to follow , honest comments, even funny, the time run easily listening the coments. Great job bro.
John enjoyed this video. As I'm getting back in to soldering as a hobby, your videos have helped me find affordable equipment that isn't going to break. Just got the 2.1 and I'm glad to see that I'm not missing much 3.1. I did grab some screen grabs of your KSGER 858D to assist me with the KIY version I purchased. thanks again
I noticed on my KSGER 3.1 with the regular 9501 black grip and blue handle that some tips are tighter than others but none wobble or anything like that, you just have to give it an extra push to click at the end. It's well worth if you don't have one to get the latest 3.1s version and don't cheap out because they sure as heck will, mine doesn't have leaky caps, the ground to the iron is connected, shake to wake up is connected and functional. The PCB on mine is black, on your model it's still green, the battery is glued on mine to the transformer.
Simple mechanic coupling. Stack them and place a belt around the knobs. xD Well, for making it work for real, you could probably simply solder the contacts of one dial to both boards with some cables.
Thanks for the thorough review! I bought one off of Banggood after watching this back on the 16th and I just got it in the mail today. Tried it out really quickly and it feels more responsive than my Weller WESD51 that I've had for a few years and the shorter length of the T12's iron w/handle #4 feels more comfortable and natural to use. Can't beat the price for the KSGER either!
Hi, after 8 months, the smd 4409 transistor cracked, putting all the 24v voltage on the soldering tip. The solution was to replace the transistor with a 40v 30A one, the green light on the board is on due to malfunctions. After repair, the LED lights up depending on the setting, flashing the rest of the time
I just got one of these, HW 3.10, SW 3.1S, but the board looks different. The battery is on top of the transformer, and the power connection to the front panel is different. Its soldered directly to the front board, no plug. Works fine, but the board looks like the old one. Same version on it as yours, tho, 2.04 Weird....I moved the battery, so its much easier to put the cover back on.
FYI this version has 5 preset temps that you can set, as well. I haven't figured out how to consistently get to that screen but I can if I push and twist enough lol.
Yoikes. $70 now. How often do they put them on sale? ...or is it a "put it in your cart and leave it for a few days to trigger a discount" kind of thing?
Thanks for the quality review and as a result I bought this as my first solder station. However, you concluded at @26:37 that it is ESD protected because you measured continuity between the earth ground pin and the tip. My unit has no such ground path. I did notice that both PCBs have been updated; in my 3.1S version the control board is marked "OLED-V3.1" and the power supply is "V2.05." I have continuity from the tip through to the power supply side of the two-wire harness. @28:08 you can see where that harness is connected to the two-pin header. At that same time stamp you can also see part of a tiny pad peaking out from under the left side of the two pin header. That pad has continuity with the earth ground pin, but nothing is connected to it on your version or my version. So what's the tip to earth ground path on your version? Was that a mod that I missed? Thanks in advance!
No mod on mine. The black (negative) of the DC power supply output pin/trace is earth grounded; and as you know, the iron tip is grounded though the black negative lead. My PS board is however V2.04. So if your DC negative at the PS is not grounded, they must have changed that on V2.05??? Should be easy to ground it however provided there is no reason to float the negative on the board.
@@Rchelicopterfun thanks for the reply. However this is where i get out of my comfort zone; trust their engineer's knowledge of their design or trust my basic understanding of electronics and mod it?
@Craig Danielski - Well, my advice would be to leave it alone then if you are not comfortable with what earth grounding the negative trace might do. It really depends on what you're working on if there is a benefit or necessity to having a grounded tip; or if you're concerned about any voltage leaking from the heater element out to the tip. Are you going to be soldering sensitive components? There are lots of hobby soldering irons and stations out there that are not grounded and have floating tips after all. You may want to look at a few articles about the pros & cons of having a grounded soldering tip to better decide if this is important for your applications or not. Lots of info out there - Google Fu time.
Very important if you are soldering sensitive electronics, not important if you are just soldering wires. In short, the importance of ESD grounding on any soldering tool is totally application dependent.
@@Rchelicopterfun its weird that some Ksger are grounded and others are not. Ive grounded the negative terminal to PE via wire. How is it that yours is grounded? My ground stops at the plug on the main board to control panel board. Theres a PE right next to the pins, but its connected to nothing. Im curious as to how only two wires are grounded? I appreciate any help/insight, thanks.
@@Rchelicopterfun Weirder. Neither wires in mine share earth ground. Does it matter which is grounded? On the control panel, my red wire comes from ground and black comes from 24V. Ive grounded the red wire via wire from PE to Negative on main board. Is this correct?
NO- you NEVER EVER ground a positive - that shorts it direct to ground and will blow the supply. Unless your wiring color is also screwed up. Red should be positive, black of course negative.
I ordered one and part of the connection in the handle was bent. I bent in back enough to insert the tip (lol that's what she said). However when I turn it on I would get an error message everytime I moved the wand. I think the wand was defective. I sent it back.
I try to read all comments under videos, but 311 comments is too much, so maybe my question was already asked. In the description the UPDATE from June 2022 about V3.1 states = No more dual screen. To be sure: The "following" Infoscreen @9:50 is no longer available? Set Temp_______________xy% Power draw TEMP__________________clock Tip Type (0/*)___________Temp (CPU/handle) I liked the look ;(
Correct. If you want the full display information, get the 2.1S version (it's also a better station in my opinion). www.banggood.com/custlink/GDKDEw6B1K
the 2.1 is now available from many companies handskit has an identical copy operating wise for 2.1. and now these style stations are available with jbc 245 tips from a few other brands for about 75$
Yes, however out of all the cartridge style soldering tips on the market (JBC, PACE, MiniWare TS100 & 80), T-12/T-15 soldering tips are by far the most prevalent and least expensive. That in my opinion has to be taken into account when deciding on any of these direct drive/carriage tip technology stations - replacement tip availability & cost. It's one of the biggest hold backs I hear from people who are using M/similar style slide on tip stations & irons. They remain on the fence as whether or not to upgrade their proven, inexpensive and easy to find soldering tip stations & irons to cartridge tips. Many still consider direct drive/cartridge tips are too hard to find and too costly to replace. I was one of them before finding the T12 options 🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun everyone is just starting to make jbc aftermarket ones now for much less money just like with the t12. Imo we will see the jbc knock offs cartridges come down even more soon. Still a bit more then t12 prob but for those who like the jbc type imo it's worth it over what they charge for the real ones. you are right about the cost of the t12's though. i mean i bought a pack of 40 different tips for under 1.50 each last year lol. i have the ksger style jbc on order and we will see how it performs soon. i also ordered the handskit t12 2.1s and can say other then the brand name on the front and they do use a different style psu inside the use and control is identical in every way. that unit was like 39$ shipped complete with handle and 2 tips. the jbc one mentioned above was 74$ with a handle and 4 c245 tips with it.
@Th3 Drizzl3 Good to know more affordable cartridge tip options are coming online for us average hobbyists. I hope you enjoy your direct drive cartridge soldering experiences as much as I have. It was the little TS100 iron that first introduced me to this new tip technology; and as I said, once you get used to cartridge tip performance, they quickly spoil a person. Enjoy yours!
Hi John, I have this soldering station, in version 3.1S, it is in the TIP menu the JBC C245 appears in the first position. Is this station compatible with these tips? logically after acquiring the handle.
I have seen many variations for this station, the most known KSGER and Quicko, they look very similar, I would like to know what is the difference between them, if you have tried the quicko station. Thank you for the informative review.
I kinda address this question on my T12 soldering station review page on my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/t12-soldering-station.html The short answer however is the head unit (the STM 32 bit processor & OLED display) are the same with all units, but the case, along with the switch mode power supply, GX12 connector wiring, and soldering iron/handles will vary. The KSGER T12 2.1S & now the 3.1S versions from most accounts have the best power supply & case (even with the grounding & heat sink shortcomings which are both easily addressed by the average hobbyist); but I'm sure most of these T12 stations all get the job done. I have no direct experience with anything but the KSGER units and I base the above points on feedback I've received from other T12 station users over the past couple years, a fair amount of my own research, along with my own anecdotal experiences.
There are several different handle options? There are ones which are like the one shown in this video and ones that do not have a wide barrel like the black body and blue barrel version.
I just got my 3.1 station (I got the one without PSU, and I bought a PSU off amazon ca) and I notice that I can't deactivate the J02 tip from the menu. Any idea why? I wrote to the seller just now too.
8 AWG is pushing its ability at only 65W, but these direct drive tips will do it with power to spare provided good soldering technique, good tinning skills, good quality rosin core leaded solder, and a big tip with plenty of thermal mass. On bigger wires (10 AWG and larger), I like the T12 D4 wedge/chisel tip (40mm wide), but before I got it, I was using the standard K knife tip on 10 & 8 AWG high flex RC wiring with pretty good success as well. There is a larger chisel tip, the D52 (52mm wide) which would likely do an even better job of heat transfer into big wiring, but it would likely be too big for getting into the bullet pins. There is also a D32 (32 mm wide) tip if you think the D4 it too wide.
I have put over 100 hours on this soldering iron.. assembled 30 different fpv drones 😅Best I ever used. Only drama has been with the wires breaking inside the handle like every 20 hours. Lucky I have another temperature controlled soldering iron to repair my temperature controlled soldering iron.
Glad to hear you are enjoying your Ksger T12 station as well. Great soldering tools aren't they. Interesting to hear your wiring is breaking in the handles however. Is it breaking where the individual wires are soldered to the connection points in the handle or is it at the main flex point where the cable enters the handle? If it's where the wires are soldered in the handle, you might want to try putting heat shrink tube (if there is none in there) over each solder connection to add some strain relief. I did that to my original FX9501 handle and it has never had an issue with hundreds of hours on it.
@@Rchelicopterfun Great idea!!! Yeah its mostly the blue sensor wire breaking where its soldered to the resistor. A bit of heat shrink over it would probably solve my issue thanks for the great suggestion!
Another excellent review, thanks. Was wondering how do I pick up the 2.1 version with the plastic 9501 handle that you prefer? Only ones I see on Amazon etc use the aluminum version, or a different one like the 907 in this video.
Only place I dealt with that came with FX9501 handle option is Banggood and they are out of stock it looks like currently. No idea what Amazon sellers might have? Maybe try ebay or another Ksger dealer.
I have this doubt, and I think you are the man that knows the answer... I have this soldering station and another old-style station (none T12) I want to get rid of the old station, but I often need the old tips for DIY stuff. Can I connect the old stile tips to this T12 station? Is it just a matter of checking that the resistance is the same? or is there another key difference?
These stations are ONLY to be used with direct drive (cartridge) T12 or T15 tips; can't use regular tips - totally different heating element, temp sensor, operation, and PID algorithm.
Some T12 soldering stations have a 4 pin, 5 pin or 6 pin socket for the cable going to the handle of the soldering iron. What is the difference in the amount of lines of each socket? Thanks.
Hello. Last time when I used it, it went into sleep mode, reducing temperature, after some time. Do you know when it is putting itself into sleep mode? It's just matter of time, if you do not move the letcon for 1 minute? Or is also about some positioning of the letcon in a kind of home/park position? Thanks.
Standby or sleep mode? Have to clarify as they are two different things on these stations. Sleep mode is a programable time in the setup menu (1-60 minutes). Once it enters sleep mode, it won't wake back up with iron movement, you have to push the encoder dial in. Sleep mode turns the iron off completely. Standby doesn't turn the iron off, it lowers the temp to whatever you program in the setup menu. It also has a programable time limit of 1-60min for how long before it enters standby. You can also program how you want it to take it out of standby (iron movement, button press or either). All covered beginning at time index 10:43.
@@Rchelicopterfun I mean cools down the temperature.....it seems after 60 seconds when sitting in the rack, it cools down.then if I move the letcon again, it starts to heat up again.
I just purchase generic cellulous sponges & cut them to size. Mentioned it in my T12 review on my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/t12-soldering-station.html
Well, they don't seem to sell the 3.1S on Banggood anymore, just the 3.1S Mini, which requires an external power supply. Assuming I don't already have a 3A 24V barrel jack power supply, would I be better off buying that or spend the extra ~$30 to buy the regular 3.1S on Amazon?
They still have the 2.1S which is in my opinion a better station. I have both versions and use the 2.1S the most. www.banggood.com/custlink/GDKDEw6B1K They are both good little soldering stations however so if you want the 3.1S for the various iron handle selection options (if Amazon has those with there 3.1S), then I'm sure it would be fine. If I had to chose however between the 2.1S & 3.1S, I would get the 2.1S if iron handle option was not a deciding factor .
I went back to your original video of making the tip stand out of the hockey puck and it looks like you updated the design a little? Did you stick two pucks together now? What did you use to hold them together? It looks super clean and doesn't look like there is a seam in the video. Thanks!
Yes, version 2.0 is two pucks glued together to give a little more mass & stability. I used Shoe Goo glue (Household Goop glue would also work). Yes, there was a seam in the center afterward where the bevels of the puck halves mated, so I turned it on the lathe to reduce the diameter slightly to remove that seam bevel. The single puck worked fine, but you how it goes - always ways to tinker & improve.
John, I purchased one of these soldering stations a few years ago based on your review. It’s been a good one so far. Lately, I have added 3D printing to my list of hobbies and as such I need to use an soldering tip with which I can do metal inserts and such. Are there any handles that are compatible with this station that take regular tips? I’m referring to the ones that use the short tips without a heating element. Thank you in advance.
At first I thought the 907 handle (the blue and yellow) was a bit cheap, definitely built to a cost, but it actually works just fine .. in fact, I'd like to get a similar silicone sleeve (the yellow bit) for my other handles (others are a bit to warm) but haven't found anything that fits over them just yet though.
Totally depends on the specific tip & what I'm soldering (ie. how much heat the component pulls from the tip). The temp ranges I work at are generally between 350C & 400C with my favorite solder, Kester 60/40 rosin core various diameters makes no difference, as it's application specific.
i don't know if y have the ksger compo station . I got one and my hot air gun fan broke. So i made beginners mistake by trying to solder new fan with same iron i was changing fan into. Now everything is fine until i try to turn heat gun off it won't go under 100℃. when it tries to cooldown it goes under 100 and turns fan and hotair back on. Any succestions trying to debug. Haven't find problem, and ksger is not selling new compo station control boards. And i don't want to buy full kit again. I am getting stand alone hot air station. but would be nice to fix this one too.
Nice video ! Seems like they haven't changed a lot, I would've liked to see that grounding problem resolved :/ . Also, I've been wondering if you had the same problem as my ksger t12 (v2.1) soldering station with the 9501 Handle (the thin one): does yours get uncomfortably hot after some time on @310°C ? Because mine becomes untouchable when it's been on for 10min. I mean the plastic doesn't soften like you described in another video but it still gets hot.
No, not hot at all. I run mine most of the time anywhere between 320 and 380C, likely 350C 80% of the time and I can be using it for an hour or more on some projects at 350 and higher. Have you actually measured the temperature of the tip/s? Maybe they are getting a lot hotter than 310C and need calibration. Do you find this with multiple tips or only one or a few specific ones?
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks for answering. Huh weird, might have to redo calibration or something, but I do get this with any tip I use (d16, d24, k, c08, bc3, ils, etc etc). But even not well calibrated I shouldn't be that far off temps. I used a digital thermometer with a thermocouple (you know those fluke knockoffs) and a infrared gun too to calibrate the first time for every single tip
Yep, I don't think it's calibration then if it happens with all tips. Very unlikely they are all overshooting by what would have to be a fair amount. Also if you've confirmed they are in the ball park with a thermocouple, they can't be out by much (if any). Maybe check the contacts in the handle to make sure they are in fact making good sprung contact and there is no resistive heat being generated. That is of course a long shot, but I just can see how a tip set at 310C would make the handle so hot in 10 minutes. As I said, I run mine higher than for for over an hour at times, and the grip is barely warm.
Is the metal casing not grounded? I think I'll rather go with the plastic version. Is there a version with metal plate front but plastic casing? It's hard to see on the photos, and the Chinglish descriptions aren't too helpful :(
@@Rchelicopterfun Yeah, thanks. I had seen it in between. I also have seen the videos making suggestions for other mods. Still wondering why the aluminum version is cheaper than the plastic one atm..
Quicko seems to be the cheaper knockoff, they usually have 3-digit LCD instead of the OLED screen. KSGER seems to be the ones who actually designed the thing. I've used Quicko tips in my KSGER and they are indistinguishable.
Hard to make an apples to apples recommendation between the two as they are vastly different soldering tools. The T12 being a bench top soldering station and the TS80 being a portable soldering iron. Your call which you would find more useful for your particular hobby applications. If you want a portable iron for field repairs for example vs. a bench top station that has more features and power.
I received my KSGER T12 V3.1S soldering station with 907 handle but without holder for the handle. Please tell me which holder holds this handle size perfectly without modding. Must be heavy, tight fit to hold handle and have room for sponge or cleaning ball. Thanks for your advice.
I have a Quecoo T-12 951 LED soldering gun, Its like your first one, and Its great, Dial up/down heat, and it automatically goes to sleep and turns off the heat if it sits idle too long which is great and comes back to temp when you move it. Its all pretty much anyone needs. Like these newer ones with LCD screens, who needs date and time on a soldering station anyways?? All those extra features and menus, for what? I like it basic and it just works.
Is the firmware on the 3.1S different to the 3.1S from the official KSGER store on Aliexpress? The interface looks different on the photos on aliexpress!
Hi John, bought one T12 a few months ago but yesterday I reconnected the 220V and it woke up in Chinese and while trying to get to the language menu I must have changed it and set a password. Since everything was in Chinese I did not see what I was doing. I think it happened because my unit came without a battery backup and even though I tried to tell Banggood about this I was unable to make them understand that a battery was missing and sending them a video would not have made any difference while pictures with arrows were not understood. Do you know how to reset the unit since I cannot get to the menu? Thanks
Language setting is menu 17 so just go into the menu screen (regardless of language selection),, scroll down to sub menu 17, and scroll through the languages until English (or whatever language) you want shows up and select it. Done. If you read the pinned comment I made back in March and in the description under the product link, I clearly state the latest runs of the 3.1S no longer have date, time, or a backup battery; not just yours, everyone's is like this now. If you want the RTC and battery option, you have to get the 2.1S version which I also mention in the description under that important update information.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John, once I get into the unit again I will look at what version I have but in the mean time do you know how to reset the unit that is locked due to the unfortunate insertion of a chinese password while the unit changed the language by itself? I cannot get to the menu to reset it so is there some way to do it?
I am about to order all of this lol, the kit with blue and yellow handle. Tip kit, sponge, handle, power cord. Almost went with a t100 but I don't need portable and these have great reviews. What's your thoughts? Thanks for the video b
Nothing beats a bench top soldering station for ease of use, convenience, and overall operation. If portability is not an issue, then you made the correct choice IMO.
What capacitor would you recommend replacing the one that leaks with? I dont solder much, just use an el-cheapo weller for spot solder here and there, but would like to invest in one of these. Even though it has its flaws, still cant beat the price and small project of fixing it to work safely.
Sorry, I don't know what capacitor you are referencing - there was no no leaking cap on this station? If any of the electrolytic caps were to fail or leak, then you would replace it/them with the same values they were rated at (values are indicated on the cap).
@@Rchelicopterfun its the biggest capacitor towards the back. Correct me if i misheard you, i believe you stated on the first Ksger you got, the big cap started leaking. I read on the reviews on banggood site that capacitor is a vented one. My apologies, i don't know a lot about electronic parts, but does that mean theres another capacitor that isnt vented? Are they all vented? Im just curious, i have no idea. My concern was how long that capacitor would last before i would have to replace it? I appreciate any feedback, thank you.
@beaR - Sorry, I didn't realize you were refinancing a different video and I had forgot about that passing reference. Yes indeed, that large power input cap did start leaking on my first unit (this one has been fine, but it's not even a year old yet). All electrolytic capacitors generally have burst/venting slots in the top (basically a one time pressure relief valve). Yes, there is more than one electrolytic cap in that station's power supply (I think 4 total). Premature electrolytic venting was a big issue back in the late 90's & early 2000's, often referenced as "capacitor plague", and continues with lower cost caps to this day. Anyway, my reply about replacing it with the same value (voltage and capacitance) still holds, but I don't recall the values off the top of my head. I wouldn't necessarily go replacing it however if there is no need to. It could last for years or decades after all, especially with intermittent usage. Mine on the other hand is often powered up for days on end, so it gets harder use than one that gets powered on a few times a month. There are many factors that affect electrolytic cap life (even if they are low quality caps). Don't take my or other's anecdotal experiences and then presume a 100% component failure rate. "Millage will vary" as the saying goes. 🙂 If you are concerned that specific input power cap might fail and you want a spare on hand, then look at it, get the values off it (as I said, they are written on the outside), and order a new one up from a reputable electronics supplier such as Digi-Key or Mouser. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it until (if) it ever fails.
@@Rchelicopterfun No worries and thank you sir, very informative. I'll keep in mind the suppliers you mentioned. Thanks again for explaining and showing how to mod this station for safer operation. Subbed.
I’d love to see the desoldering version of this station. I was already considering hacking together my own desoldering station. Using a solenoid and Venturi with a pancake air compressor.
It's user preference. As I mentioned in the review, I like the feel & shorter tip working distance of original 9501 handle better, but we are all different. Yes the 907 is very similar to Hakko's 888 handle, so if you use the 888 handle and like it, you'll probably like like the 907 handle. The 907 handle is a slightly better quality than the 9501 handle IMO.
RUclips algorithms at it again, and information that I needed, so great timing. Very thorough review, as were the other soldering iron ones you posted, to get me more informed. If I could impose a question please. I'm in need of a sodlering iron to upgrade from a traditional £20/$30, I've had for years. It's a fixed temp type and has no control. I'm only a hobbyist user, I like to fix things occasionaly but no where near an everyday user. On my search I found the T100 irons and was fascinated how things have changed, I was tempted to buy one but to me it seemed like a device more targeting users who need portability?I cannot recall I need such an ability. I've watched your SQ-001 review and think its the same device and purpose of use. I've also just seen your KSGER T12 reviews which also got my intrigued and seemed like a good product and you of course highly approve. My question is, are they still overkill for my use? Are these products more for semi/pro use or good irons to have around for ocassional use, hopefully giving years of light usage? If not, what would you recommend? I do like the changing of tips so keep that in mind. Appreciate any advice. Thanks
I would agree with you that getting a T100/T80 would not be the best if portability is a non issue. They are awesome little irons for field use and where you have no electrical hook up, but nothing IMO beats a good bench top soldering station if that is your primary soldering location. These little Ksger T12's could be considered somewhat semi-portable because they are small, so it not like you can't easy move them around to different work stations or areas. As for the Ksger T12 being a good fit for you - that is something I can't answer. You know your specific soldering needs and frequency of use much better than I do. I feel these are amazing solder stations for the average hobbyist. They are likely no good for hard core users that need to use a solder station for hours every day (repair tech for example); nor are they likely the best choice for someone who only solders a few times a year. If you use an iron several times a month or week however, then they are a good fit IMO.
@@Rchelicopterfun Appreciate the reply. That's a fair summary. My main reason to liking the ts100 types; because I like gadgets and it looked hightech compared to mine, lame reason for me to buy one though and as you surmised, the Ksger T12 probably not going to be used to its full potential. Unless I get either one at a ridiculously low price, I'll look for something else then. There are literally so many on banggood, probably just take a punt at a cheaper one. Again, appreciate the reply.
I ordered mine and they sent the wrong handle. I want the 9501 handle. I would like to meet someone with hands steady enough to use that long ass handle.
@Ed Diaz, I mentioned at the beginning of the video, you can use any number of the T12 handles. If you check out the product link I supply for the V3.1S, it gives all 6 handle options at time of order.
Thanks for the great reviews John. I have received my KSGER T12 with Ver 3.1S and 6 tips. It came with the improved V2.05 power supply. It still needed some safety mods but they ARE listening. I have however encountered one WEIRD problem with my unit. When selecting my tips from the TIP menu I was UNABLE to clear the J02 tip? Everything else went according to plan but not the J02? I reinitializing the unit via the INIT menu item but the problem with the J02 remained. This is a minor issue but I was wondering if anyone else had encountered anything similar. Any thoughts? Thanks, Rick
@@brushlessrusty The author of this video has numerous videos on the T12. The main problem is lack of grounding of the case. (The heat sink next to HV in the power supply seems to have been addresses with the V2.05 power supply.) For info on how to ground the case see: ruclips.net/video/9BnxiF-gQwQ/видео.html A problem introduced with the 2.05 power supply is an uncoupling from the ground of the soldering iron tip. This requires the addition of a wire on the power supply board.
@ve7asr - Thanks for the update confirmation on the 2.05 board with some improved safety. As for why the J02 tip can't be unchecked from inventory - no idea there mate. So every other tip can be unchecked out of inventory, it's just the J02 that can't - correct? Yes, very WEIRD! Perhaps someone else will chime in.
Just getting into soldering so I bought this station, sadly only getting an error message on the display even when the tip is all the way in, what could be happening?
Hello, I've watched and read so many reviews and decided to purchase one of these, but the official store (and, as I see, all other stores) in aliexpress now ships the 3.1S version with MM32 chip. I asked them and they told me if I want STM32, I need to order 2.1S version. Can you please help me with this one, which is better to order? I can't find any reviews of the 3.1S version with the MM32 chip? Is it good and will it do the job?
@@Rchelicopterfun just came back here to say again - thank you. For the advice and for all the videos. My station arrived today and I am happy with it. It has newer version of the mains pcb, the big cap is not so close to the heat sink, also there are no traces under the heat sink. The controlling pcb is also updated, no problem with the battery drain, the famous R1 isn't there, it's differently arranged. I only had to do the grounding, already done :) As I look at your review of the 3.1s, I am glad I took you advice and ordered 2.1s. I don't need this second display option and I am happy I have the stepping option. Mine shows 2.1S version on HW and 2.12 SW. I only hope now it will age well, but why not, as I see, people are using these stations since years :)
@@Rchelicopterfun And what about the new STC V2.3 version with grounded case and color display? And what's the difference between STC32, MM32 and STC? Does it matters? Thanks!
Dang it! I want your firmware. I got a 3.1s late last year. Came with a 6-pin 907 handle, and the PSU is different, with the BR heatsink NOT crossing over the mains trace, plus it had a DC barrel jack for external 24v in. All wins in my opinion (apart from the 907 handle. I have the other handle on the way as we speak) The NTC is inside the station also. But my firmware does not have the tip selection, tip calibration, no PID configuration and other features yours does. In fact mine says HW ver 3.1 SW ver 6.2M I'd like to think it is genuine... I wonder if there's a contact for KSGER support who I can contact to see if there is the possibility of an update?
No idea why yours aren't changing screens - mine works fine by going into the menu, and selecting either 1 or 2. Have you confirmed in the system info menu (#19) you have HW version 3.10 & SW 3.1S? Also, have you tried a factory reset. That's all I can suggest.
Hi! I have version 2.1s of this device. I discovered that there is a buzzing sound (like coil whine) when you bring the encoder part closer to your ear. Is there such a thing on your device?
@@Rchelicopterfun - [x] There is very little hum in my device too. The interesting thing is that I also have the ts100 soldering iron, it also has the same hum but it is very little. I wonder. Is it hum of stm32 controller.
I'm new to this hobby. Recently bought this station as my first one. I'm very pleased with the product, and I want to thank you for the review, as it feels like a very decent tool use! Not like my other, cheap chinese soldering iron, which i bought when i was in 8th grade and it blew right in my hands at it's first use. That kept me away for many years from the soldering, and now i am finally coming back with THIS tool :D One newbie question though - can i somehow swap the soldering handle to a hot air gun one, and just plug it into this station? Or the controller is designed purely for soldering tips?
@Uncle Sam - Glad to hear you are enjoying your T12 station thus far. As to if a hot air wand will work with this station, no. Hot air rework, requires much more power and energy to create enough heat to blow out at 300C + temperatures. All hot air rework heaters therefor use 120-240 VAC line voltage for the heating elements, not low 24 VDC voltage like these solder irons do. I have done a review on KSGER's hot air 858D rework station if you wanted to see what they are about & the differences between it and a solder station: ruclips.net/video/C1OiKfb_0M8/видео.html This follow-up/update video on both of the KSGER soldering tools you may also find useful: ruclips.net/video/Dy9WUtvdBUk/видео.html
Perhaps - as I said, I've never powered it that way so I'm not the person to ask. You would also have to have some way of decoupling the power input from the PS the instant you hook it up to a battery feed. Don't want to be back feeding a switch mode power supply. A small DTDP toggle switch perhaps to change from one power input source to the other...
@@Rchelicopterfun ok I might buy one and do that then. I was gonna buy a TS100 but I think this one might be better, and if I can power it by battery it will achieve what I want it to do. I'll do a video of this on my channel and reference your vids
Can't Believe my Luck received a V2.1s on first plugin with supplied K tip went thermal and started glowing cherry red at 250 Degree so going back to the long river Co
Hello i just really wanted to ask you I'm getting new soldering iron/station so which do you recommend me more KSEGER T12 V3.1S or V2.1S and TS 100-80 I know that you tried them soo if you can give me your opinion I watched your channel for over year just keep the good work. Thank you very much. Sorry if my english is not soo good but its not my primary language
Totally depends if you want a portable soldering iron or a bench top station. If it's a station, either the 3.1 or 2.1 are almost identical - just subtle differences in the display options. As for the TS100 vs 80. I prefer the 100 because it's more powerful and has a more robust barrel power connector over a USBC. That is of course for harder field & shop use where I use my portable iron. In other words - application dependent.
That really depends what you plan on soldering and how often you'll be soldering. If you'll only be using it a few times a year to solder wire/similar; a soldering station (no matter what brand or model) will be overkill. It may also be frustrating using a more complex soldering station seldom because you'll have to remember how to use it every time. If on the other hand you are getting into electronics and/or will be soldering several times a month/week, then getting a proper soldering station is a good investment and one you will both enjoy and get your money's worth. These T12 stations represent excellent value and performance. My 2 cents.
Thank you for making this follow up video. I was so impressed about your statement in regards to Chinese Cheap Hardware. I remembered you opened up a Weller soldering station and basically said look at this: Well known brand but poor build quality. Definitely Americans need to step it up again. Also you said if my Ksger would fail today you wouldn’t hesitate replacing it with exactly the same the next day. I enjoyed your upgrade video of the heat gun. Once again thank you for making these videos.
I like my KSGER... Only 2 thing I hate about them is the handle itself and that the older models are not properly grounded. The blue plastic one like you old one has gets hot where you hold it after using for 20 or more mins. The metal ones have quality control issues, and that blue and yellow has a screw on handle and longer tip to grip. KSGER need to make a model that lets you plug a JBC pin in lol.
A T12 soldering station will have no problem with 10 AWG; with good soldering technique, a large enough thermal mass tip (D24 or D4 for example), and good quality solder of course.
Link to KSGER T12 V3.1S Soldering Station: www.banggood.com/custlink/DvDdMwHoIY
IMPORTANT MARCH 2021 UPDATE! The V3.1S no longer supports dual display options as I show in this review. There is no more date/clock screen and the RTC battery has therefore been removed. If you want the time screen on your T12 station, get the 2.1S version: www.banggood.com/custlink/GDKDEw6B1K
I wish I'd looked at the comments before purchasing it. There is an RTC battery in mine, but display1 and display2 show the same thing. I can't get the power level (in %) to display. I was interested in that. My unit is shown to be manufactured on 2021-01 on the sticker.
one more thing. this bangood is it from china? any problems getting orders.. and could you link some links to the smaller handle. Or do i buy smaller tips? not sure what ones to get..
@ It's an ARM STM32 Micro btw
Perhaps there is an open source firmware you could fork?
Do you know why they made this change? Does this mean that the 2.1S is the best model to get? Oh, and does the 2.1S also have the grounding issue?
@@blazinkid5178 The real issue is the distance (or there lack of) between the heat dissipator and the input power traces traces.
This video may be 3 years old but I picked this up after watching your reviews and I am extremely happy. I retired my T18 tip style iron.
Glad it worked out for you and thanks for watching
I was looking for a better soldering iron than the Antex M12 I've been using for decades and bought a KSGER T12 v3.1s based on this review. Happy so far. Thanks for producing such clear, informative and concise reviews that get quickly to the point.
Glad I could help
I ordered one of these. Supposed to be here today.
Edit: MUCH better than the 936D I just had that died within 10 mins. It has the silicone cord and seems to work just fine. It also came with a white handle w/ black rubber sleeve. I had a Weller WLC100 before the 936D so that's all I've ever used until the KSGER. This thing is TONS better than the Weller. Though I have it as a backup since it just works.
My 936D is acting up as well.
How is doing now? The quality of these seemed to heavily drop off about a 1.5 years ago…
I got one based on the reviews but mine was defective. It overheated til the tips were blazing red. Got a replacement and it worked for a couple of weeks then it started overheating also. I returned it and bought a Hakko 951. Love it.
I am returning mine tomorrow for the very same reason, the tip went glowing red, happened twice already , too bad I really liked the unit as a whole but can't have a defective one in my house.
Best soldering station I've ever owned and perfect for hobby use.
Does it handle 10 gauge xt 90 connections.
@@SolRC Heaviest I've done is 12ga and it handled it without any problem. It heats to 480, so I think that with the righ tip, 10ga shouldn't be a problem either.
I just got one today (v2.1) opened it up for inspection and found the wires connecting the power board to the front panel mashed between the transformer, battery, and the lid. if you get one be sure to open it up and move the battery and be sure the wires are not pinched in the stack
GREAT GREAT GREAT review, as the previous version. Really amazing your explanation, easy to follow , honest comments, even funny, the time run easily listening the coments. Great job bro.
John enjoyed this video. As I'm getting back in to soldering as a hobby, your videos have helped me find affordable equipment that isn't going to break. Just got the 2.1 and I'm glad to see that I'm not missing much 3.1. I did grab some screen grabs of your KSGER 858D to assist me with the KIY version I purchased. thanks again
Great to hear.
I noticed on my KSGER 3.1 with the regular 9501 black grip and blue handle that some tips are tighter than others but none wobble or anything like that, you just have to give it an extra push to click at the end. It's well worth if you don't have one to get the latest 3.1s version and don't cheap out because they sure as heck will, mine doesn't have leaky caps, the ground to the iron is connected, shake to wake up is connected and functional. The PCB on mine is black, on your model it's still green, the battery is glued on mine to the transformer.
We need to figure out how to stack two of these together, set them to the same temp and run a set of smd tweezers!
Simple mechanic coupling. Stack them and place a belt around the knobs. xD
Well, for making it work for real, you could probably simply solder the contacts of one dial to both boards with some cables.
there is actually a version with two plugs in one unit
Thank You again for review, teardown and well orginised description with all related videos.
Thanks for the thorough review! I bought one off of Banggood after watching this back on the 16th and I just got it in the mail today. Tried it out really quickly and it feels more responsive than my Weller WESD51 that I've had for a few years and the shorter length of the T12's iron w/handle #4 feels more comfortable and natural to use. Can't beat the price for the KSGER either!
Hope you enjoy yours too
Hi, after 8 months, the smd 4409 transistor cracked, putting all the 24v voltage on the soldering tip. The solution was to replace the transistor with a 40v 30A one, the green light on the board is on due to malfunctions. After repair, the LED lights up depending on the setting, flashing the rest of the time
Great review! Thank you for the safety improvement hints.
Glad it was helpful
I just got one of these, HW 3.10, SW 3.1S, but the board looks different. The battery is on top of the transformer, and the power connection to the front panel is different. Its soldered directly to the front board, no plug. Works fine, but the board looks like the old one. Same version on it as yours, tho, 2.04 Weird....I moved the battery, so its much easier to put the cover back on.
FYI this version has 5 preset temps that you can set, as well. I haven't figured out how to consistently get to that screen but I can if I push and twist enough lol.
Yoikes. $70 now.
How often do they put them on sale?
...or is it a "put it in your cart and leave it for a few days to trigger a discount" kind of thing?
Thanks for the quality review and as a result I bought this as my first solder station. However, you concluded at @26:37 that it is ESD protected because you measured continuity between the earth ground pin and the tip. My unit has no such ground path. I did notice that both PCBs have been updated; in my 3.1S version the control board is marked "OLED-V3.1" and the power supply is "V2.05." I have continuity from the tip through to the power supply side of the two-wire harness. @28:08 you can see where that harness is connected to the two-pin header. At that same time stamp you can also see part of a tiny pad peaking out from under the left side of the two pin header. That pad has continuity with the earth ground pin, but nothing is connected to it on your version or my version. So what's the tip to earth ground path on your version? Was that a mod that I missed? Thanks in advance!
No mod on mine. The black (negative) of the DC power supply output pin/trace is earth grounded; and as you know, the iron tip is grounded though the black negative lead. My PS board is however V2.04. So if your DC negative at the PS is not grounded, they must have changed that on V2.05??? Should be easy to ground it however provided there is no reason to float the negative on the board.
@@Rchelicopterfun thanks for the reply. However this is where i get out of my comfort zone; trust their engineer's knowledge of their design or trust my basic understanding of electronics and mod it?
@Craig Danielski - Well, my advice would be to leave it alone then if you are not comfortable with what earth grounding the negative trace might do. It really depends on what you're working on if there is a benefit or necessity to having a grounded tip; or if you're concerned about any voltage leaking from the heater element out to the tip. Are you going to be soldering sensitive components? There are lots of hobby soldering irons and stations out there that are not grounded and have floating tips after all. You may want to look at a few articles about the pros & cons of having a grounded soldering tip to better decide if this is important for your applications or not. Lots of info out there - Google Fu time.
I got the V2.05 pcb (black pcb). Theres no continuity from earth ground to tip? How important is it to be static protected?
Very important if you are soldering sensitive electronics, not important if you are just soldering wires. In short, the importance of ESD grounding on any soldering tool is totally application dependent.
@@Rchelicopterfun its weird that some Ksger are grounded and others are not. Ive grounded the negative terminal to PE via wire.
How is it that yours is grounded?
My ground stops at the plug on the main board to control panel board.
Theres a PE right next to the pins, but its connected to nothing.
Im curious as to how only two wires are grounded?
I appreciate any help/insight, thanks.
Both my KSGER stations are grounded through the 24VDC power supply black wire which shares earth ground.
@@Rchelicopterfun Weirder. Neither wires in mine share earth ground. Does it matter which is grounded?
On the control panel, my red wire comes from ground and black comes from 24V.
Ive grounded the red wire via wire from PE to Negative on main board.
Is this correct?
NO- you NEVER EVER ground a positive - that shorts it direct to ground and will blow the supply. Unless your wiring color is also screwed up. Red should be positive, black of course negative.
Hi, are the case and the tip connected to ground ?
I ordered one and part of the connection in the handle was bent. I bent in back enough to insert the tip (lol that's what she said). However when I turn it on I would get an error message everytime I moved the wand. I think the wand was defective. I sent it back.
i bought the previous model under tip selection only gives g1 to g5 not the tips i selected in the tips menu please help
Ah good to know bout the heat cycle cause when I hooked my unit up for the first time kept going back and forth to error the 2nd time worked perfect
I try to read all comments under videos, but 311 comments is too much, so maybe my question was already asked.
In the description the UPDATE from June 2022 about V3.1 states = No more dual screen.
To be sure:
The "following" Infoscreen @9:50 is no longer available?
Set Temp_______________xy% Power draw
TEMP__________________clock
Tip Type (0/*)___________Temp (CPU/handle)
I liked the look ;(
Correct. If you want the full display information, get the 2.1S version (it's also a better station in my opinion). www.banggood.com/custlink/GDKDEw6B1K
@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you! if in your opinion the 2.1S is the better choice I'll go with that one, Thanks again!
Have the exact same unit, definitely an upgrade over the fixed temperature unit I had before.
Hi John me again, I took the issue up with BG and there reply was that they have changed the display and 2 lines is all we get now on this model
Hmmm - Interesting. I wonder why?
the 2.1 is now available from many companies handskit has an identical copy operating wise for 2.1. and now these style stations are available with jbc 245 tips from a few other brands for about 75$
Yes, however out of all the cartridge style soldering tips on the market (JBC, PACE, MiniWare TS100 & 80), T-12/T-15 soldering tips are by far the most prevalent and least expensive. That in my opinion has to be taken into account when deciding on any of these direct drive/carriage tip technology stations - replacement tip availability & cost. It's one of the biggest hold backs I hear from people who are using M/similar style slide on tip stations & irons. They remain on the fence as whether or not to upgrade their proven, inexpensive and easy to find soldering tip stations & irons to cartridge tips. Many still consider direct drive/cartridge tips are too hard to find and too costly to replace. I was one of them before finding the T12 options 🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun everyone is just starting to make jbc aftermarket ones now for much less money just like with the t12. Imo we will see the jbc knock offs cartridges come down even more soon. Still a bit more then t12 prob but for those who like the jbc type imo it's worth it over what they charge for the real ones. you are right about the cost of the t12's though. i mean i bought a pack of 40 different tips for under 1.50 each last year lol. i have the ksger style jbc on order and we will see how it performs soon. i also ordered the handskit t12 2.1s and can say other then the brand name on the front and they do use a different style psu inside the use and control is identical in every way. that unit was like 39$ shipped complete with handle and 2 tips. the jbc one mentioned above was 74$ with a handle and 4 c245 tips with it.
@Th3 Drizzl3 Good to know more affordable cartridge tip options are coming online for us average hobbyists. I hope you enjoy your direct drive cartridge soldering experiences as much as I have. It was the little TS100 iron that first introduced me to this new tip technology; and as I said, once you get used to cartridge tip performance, they quickly spoil a person. Enjoy yours!
Hi John, I have this soldering station, in version 3.1S, it is in the TIP menu the JBC C245 appears in the first position.
Is this station compatible with these tips? logically after acquiring the handle.
Sorry, no idea - I've only used the T12 tips myself.
Great review! Super fancy unit for sure. I suppose if the ole Hakko 936 ever gives up the ghost I'll look to step up to this.
I have seen many variations for this station, the most known KSGER and Quicko, they look very similar, I would like to know what is the difference between them, if you have tried the quicko station.
Thank you for the informative review.
I kinda address this question on my T12 soldering station review page on my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/t12-soldering-station.html
The short answer however is the head unit (the STM 32 bit processor & OLED display) are the same with all units, but the case, along with the switch mode power supply, GX12 connector wiring, and soldering iron/handles will vary.
The KSGER T12 2.1S & now the 3.1S versions from most accounts have the best power supply & case (even with the grounding & heat sink shortcomings which are both easily addressed by the average hobbyist); but I'm sure most of these T12 stations all get the job done.
I have no direct experience with anything but the KSGER units and I base the above points on feedback I've received from other T12 station users over the past couple years, a fair amount of my own research, along with my own anecdotal experiences.
@@Rchelicopterfun thank you
@@seraj98srour i am asking the same question! so which station did u choose?
There are several different handle options? There are ones which are like the one shown in this video and ones that do not have a wide barrel like the black body and blue barrel version.
I just got my 3.1 station (I got the one without PSU, and I bought a PSU off amazon ca) and I notice that I can't deactivate the J02 tip from the menu. Any idea why? I wrote to the seller just now too.
KSGER told me it's a default mode and can't be deactivated.
High John will this work for basic R/C car connectors such as up to 8 gauge? Thanks for the nice content
8 AWG is pushing its ability at only 65W, but these direct drive tips will do it with power to spare provided good soldering technique, good tinning skills, good quality rosin core leaded solder, and a big tip with plenty of thermal mass. On bigger wires (10 AWG and larger), I like the T12 D4 wedge/chisel tip (40mm wide), but before I got it, I was using the standard K knife tip on 10 & 8 AWG high flex RC wiring with pretty good success as well. There is a larger chisel tip, the D52 (52mm wide) which would likely do an even better job of heat transfer into big wiring, but it would likely be too big for getting into the bullet pins. There is also a D32 (32 mm wide) tip if you think the D4 it too wide.
Thanks John
what’s the difference between one of these and a queecoo/quicko one? has the grounding issue been fixed yet?
I have put over 100 hours on this soldering iron.. assembled 30 different fpv drones 😅Best I ever used. Only drama has been with the wires breaking inside the handle like every 20 hours. Lucky I have another temperature controlled soldering iron to repair my temperature controlled soldering iron.
Glad to hear you are enjoying your Ksger T12 station as well. Great soldering tools aren't they. Interesting to hear your wiring is breaking in the handles however. Is it breaking where the individual wires are soldered to the connection points in the handle or is it at the main flex point where the cable enters the handle?
If it's where the wires are soldered in the handle, you might want to try putting heat shrink tube (if there is none in there) over each solder connection to add some strain relief. I did that to my original FX9501 handle and it has never had an issue with hundreds of hours on it.
@@Rchelicopterfun Great idea!!! Yeah its mostly the blue sensor wire breaking where its soldered to the resistor. A bit of heat shrink over it would probably solve my issue thanks for the great suggestion!
Another excellent review, thanks. Was wondering how do I pick up the 2.1 version with the plastic 9501 handle that you prefer? Only ones I see on Amazon etc use the aluminum version, or a different one like the 907 in this video.
Only place I dealt with that came with FX9501 handle option is Banggood and they are out of stock it looks like currently. No idea what Amazon sellers might have? Maybe try ebay or another Ksger dealer.
I have this doubt, and I think you are the man that knows the answer...
I have this soldering station and another old-style station (none T12)
I want to get rid of the old station, but I often need the old tips for DIY stuff.
Can I connect the old stile tips to this T12 station?
Is it just a matter of checking that the resistance is the same? or is there another key difference?
These stations are ONLY to be used with direct drive (cartridge) T12 or T15 tips; can't use regular tips - totally different heating element, temp sensor, operation, and PID algorithm.
Some T12 soldering stations have a 4 pin, 5 pin or 6 pin socket for the cable going to the handle of the soldering iron. What is the difference in the amount of lines of each socket? Thanks.
Hello. Last time when I used it, it went into sleep mode, reducing temperature, after some time. Do you know when it is putting itself into sleep mode? It's just matter of time, if you do not move the letcon for 1 minute? Or is also about some positioning of the letcon in a kind of home/park position? Thanks.
Standby or sleep mode? Have to clarify as they are two different things on these stations.
Sleep mode is a programable time in the setup menu (1-60 minutes). Once it enters sleep mode, it won't wake back up with iron movement, you have to push the encoder dial in. Sleep mode turns the iron off completely.
Standby doesn't turn the iron off, it lowers the temp to whatever you program in the setup menu. It also has a programable time limit of 1-60min for how long before it enters standby. You can also program how you want it to take it out of standby (iron movement, button press or either). All covered beginning at time index 10:43.
@@Rchelicopterfun I mean cools down the temperature.....it seems after 60 seconds when sitting in the rack, it cools down.then if I move the letcon again, it starts to heat up again.
Then you need to program a longer standby time limit - you obviously have your standby timer set to 1 minute.
Where do you buy the sponges for the stand? The ones listed on eBay and Aliexpress don't seem to fit exactly according to the seller's descriptions.
I just purchase generic cellulous sponges & cut them to size. Mentioned it in my T12 review on my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/t12-soldering-station.html
Well, they don't seem to sell the 3.1S on Banggood anymore, just the 3.1S Mini, which requires an external power supply. Assuming I don't already have a 3A 24V barrel jack power supply, would I be better off buying that or spend the extra ~$30 to buy the regular 3.1S on Amazon?
They still have the 2.1S which is in my opinion a better station. I have both versions and use the 2.1S the most. www.banggood.com/custlink/GDKDEw6B1K
They are both good little soldering stations however so if you want the 3.1S for the various iron handle selection options (if Amazon has those with there 3.1S), then I'm sure it would be fine. If I had to chose however between the 2.1S & 3.1S, I would get the 2.1S if iron handle option was not a deciding factor .
Differences between STC32, MM32 and STC ( V2.3. with grounded case and color display )?
I went back to your original video of making the tip stand out of the hockey puck and it looks like you updated the design a little? Did you stick two pucks together now? What did you use to hold them together? It looks super clean and doesn't look like there is a seam in the video. Thanks!
Yes, version 2.0 is two pucks glued together to give a little more mass & stability. I used Shoe Goo glue (Household Goop glue would also work). Yes, there was a seam in the center afterward where the bevels of the puck halves mated, so I turned it on the lathe to reduce the diameter slightly to remove that seam bevel. The single puck worked fine, but you how it goes - always ways to tinker & improve.
The menu on my 3.1 version does not have a calibrate function - how is it done?
Press the rotary encoder and hold while turn the encoder to left
Mine 3.1S came with the RTC battery glued on top so I guess not all new models are fixed.
Great video! One more question, which handle would you recommend? Also did you feel the heat in the handle after using it for a longer period of time?
I state in the video several times which handle I prefer and no I've never experienced overheating issues.
Please make a review on the T12 KSGER Mini and swap it out the original board for the V3.1S
Can you recommend a holder for this soldering iron ? I see that it does not come with that !! Thanks for a great review ! regards from Norway
I do recommend the specific iron holder in the video @32:50 and link to it in the description with all the other links.
John, I purchased one of these soldering stations a few years ago based on your review. It’s been a good one so far. Lately, I have added 3D printing to my list of hobbies and as such I need to use an soldering tip with which I can do metal inserts and such. Are there any handles that are compatible with this station that take regular tips? I’m referring to the ones that use the short tips without a heating element. Thank you in advance.
Never seen anything like like that for T12 or Hakko T15 tips (what these stations use).
@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you John.
At first I thought the 907 handle (the blue and yellow) was a bit cheap, definitely built to a cost, but it actually works just fine .. in fact, I'd like to get a similar silicone sleeve (the yellow bit) for my other handles (others are a bit to warm) but haven't found anything that fits over them just yet though.
Super video great job. Is there any provision on the station for grounding ?
Here's my T12 grounding & mod video: ruclips.net/video/9BnxiF-gQwQ/видео.html
hey there. do you happen to know why i dont have the display setting on my 3.1s?
At what temp do you recommend I solder thin wire like 0.3-0.5mm with 0.3-0.8 solder (I have the Mechanic brand with flux)? 320C?350C?
Totally depends on the specific tip & what I'm soldering (ie. how much heat the component pulls from the tip). The temp ranges I work at are generally between 350C & 400C with my favorite solder, Kester 60/40 rosin core various diameters makes no difference, as it's application specific.
@@Rchelicopterfun I supoose you increase temp when wires get thicker?
i don't know if y have the ksger compo station . I got one and my hot air gun fan broke. So i made beginners mistake by trying to solder new fan with same iron i was changing fan into. Now everything is fine until i try to turn heat gun off it won't go under 100℃. when it tries to cooldown it goes under 100 and turns fan and hotair back on. Any succestions trying to debug. Haven't find problem, and ksger is not selling new compo station control boards. And i don't want to buy full kit again. I am getting stand alone hot air station. but would be nice to fix this one too.
Nice video ! Seems like they haven't changed a lot, I would've liked to see that grounding problem resolved :/ . Also, I've been wondering if you had the same problem as my ksger t12 (v2.1) soldering station with the 9501 Handle (the thin one): does yours get uncomfortably hot after some time on @310°C ? Because mine becomes untouchable when it's been on for 10min. I mean the plastic doesn't soften like you described in another video but it still gets hot.
No, not hot at all. I run mine most of the time anywhere between 320 and 380C, likely 350C 80% of the time and I can be using it for an hour or more on some projects at 350 and higher. Have you actually measured the temperature of the tip/s? Maybe they are getting a lot hotter than 310C and need calibration. Do you find this with multiple tips or only one or a few specific ones?
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks for answering. Huh weird, might have to redo calibration or something, but I do get this with any tip I use (d16, d24, k, c08, bc3, ils, etc etc). But even not well calibrated I shouldn't be that far off temps. I used a digital thermometer with a thermocouple (you know those fluke knockoffs) and a infrared gun too to calibrate the first time for every single tip
Yep, I don't think it's calibration then if it happens with all tips. Very unlikely they are all overshooting by what would have to be a fair amount. Also if you've confirmed they are in the ball park with a thermocouple, they can't be out by much (if any). Maybe check the contacts in the handle to make sure they are in fact making good sprung contact and there is no resistive heat being generated. That is of course a long shot, but I just can see how a tip set at 310C would make the handle so hot in 10 minutes. As I said, I run mine higher than for for over an hour at times, and the grip is barely warm.
Is the metal casing not grounded? I think I'll rather go with the plastic version. Is there a version with metal plate front but plastic casing?
It's hard to see on the photos, and the Chinglish descriptions aren't too helpful :(
I cover the case grounding in the video 31:27. Easy & fun to mod: ruclips.net/video/9BnxiF-gQwQ/видео.html
No idea on plastic cases.
@@Rchelicopterfun Yeah, thanks. I had seen it in between. I also have seen the videos making suggestions for other mods. Still wondering why the aluminum version is cheaper than the plastic one atm..
can i use T-15 hakko tips with this? the ends look the same. also can i use a hakko handle/wire with this? are the connectors the same at the device?
Yes on the tips, no on the handle unless you rewire it.
How does KSGER's iteration compare to Quicko's? Do you have a video on that? Thank you in advance for a response.
No idea.
Quicko seems to be the cheaper knockoff, they usually have 3-digit LCD instead of the OLED screen. KSGER seems to be the ones who actually designed the thing. I've used Quicko tips in my KSGER and they are indistinguishable.
Coder? What does this do? (mentioned at 14:44)
As I said in the video starting at 14:45, that menu is to reverse the direction of the encoder wheel.
John, for a hobbiest and very few frequently use, wath do you recommend to me T12 v3.1S or TS80P?
Hard to make an apples to apples recommendation between the two as they are vastly different soldering tools. The T12 being a bench top soldering station and the TS80 being a portable soldering iron. Your call which you would find more useful for your particular hobby applications. If you want a portable iron for field repairs for example vs. a bench top station that has more features and power.
I received my KSGER T12 V3.1S soldering station with 907 handle but without holder for the handle. Please tell me which holder holds this handle size perfectly without modding. Must be heavy, tight fit to hold handle and have room for sponge or cleaning ball. Thanks for your advice.
I say and show which iron stand works for both the 907 and 9501 handles in the video. I also link to that same iron stand in the description.
I have a Quecoo T-12 951 LED soldering gun, Its like your first one, and Its great, Dial up/down heat, and it automatically goes to sleep and turns off the heat if it sits idle too long which is great and comes back to temp when you move it. Its all pretty much anyone needs. Like these newer ones with LCD screens, who needs date and time on a soldering station anyways?? All those extra features and menus, for what? I like it basic and it just works.
I doubt how the iron tip is ESD grounded. I see only two wires connected from power supply unit to front panel controller unit ?
The DC negative shares earth ground. Meter confirms it.
@@Rchelicopterfun ohh ok thanks for your reply . Good work you doing 👍😊
Is the firmware on the 3.1S different to the 3.1S from the official KSGER store on Aliexpress? The interface looks different on the photos on aliexpress!
Never mind. You do show us how to switch between different displays at 17:28 . Thank you for this video
Hi John, bought one T12 a few months ago but yesterday I reconnected the 220V and it woke up in Chinese and while trying to get to the language menu I must have changed it and set a password. Since everything was in Chinese I did not see what I was doing. I think it happened because my unit came without a battery backup and even though I tried to tell Banggood about this I was unable to make them understand that a battery was missing and sending them a video would not have made any difference while pictures with arrows were not understood.
Do you know how to reset the unit since I cannot get to the menu?
Thanks
Language setting is menu 17 so just go into the menu screen (regardless of language selection),, scroll down to sub menu 17, and scroll through the languages until English (or whatever language) you want shows up and select it. Done.
If you read the pinned comment I made back in March and in the description under the product link, I clearly state the latest runs of the 3.1S no longer have date, time, or a backup battery; not just yours, everyone's is like this now. If you want the RTC and battery option, you have to get the 2.1S version which I also mention in the description under that important update information.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John, once I get into the unit again I will look at what version I have but in the mean time do you know how to reset the unit that is locked due to the unfortunate insertion of a chinese password while the unit changed the language by itself? I cannot get to the menu to reset it so is there some way to do it?
@Paolo DC, Sorry, I missed the password issue. Unfortunately, no idea on that???
I am about to order all of this lol, the kit with blue and yellow handle. Tip kit, sponge, handle, power cord. Almost went with a t100 but I don't need portable and these have great reviews. What's your thoughts? Thanks for the video b
Nothing beats a bench top soldering station for ease of use, convenience, and overall operation. If portability is not an issue, then you made the correct choice IMO.
What capacitor would you recommend replacing the one that leaks with?
I dont solder much, just use an el-cheapo weller for spot solder here and there, but would like to invest in one of these. Even though it has its flaws, still cant beat the price and small project of fixing it to work safely.
Sorry, I don't know what capacitor you are referencing - there was no no leaking cap on this station? If any of the electrolytic caps were to fail or leak, then you would replace it/them with the same values they were rated at (values are indicated on the cap).
@@Rchelicopterfun its the biggest capacitor towards the back.
Correct me if i misheard you, i believe you stated on the first Ksger you got, the big cap started leaking.
I read on the reviews on banggood site that capacitor is a vented one.
My apologies, i don't know a lot about electronic parts, but does that mean theres another capacitor that isnt vented? Are they all vented? Im just curious, i have no idea.
My concern was how long that capacitor would last before i would have to replace it?
I appreciate any feedback, thank you.
@beaR - Sorry, I didn't realize you were refinancing a different video and I had forgot about that passing reference. Yes indeed, that large power input cap did start leaking on my first unit (this one has been fine, but it's not even a year old yet). All electrolytic capacitors generally have burst/venting slots in the top (basically a one time pressure relief valve). Yes, there is more than one electrolytic cap in that station's power supply (I think 4 total).
Premature electrolytic venting was a big issue back in the late 90's & early 2000's, often referenced as "capacitor plague", and continues with lower cost caps to this day.
Anyway, my reply about replacing it with the same value (voltage and capacitance) still holds, but I don't recall the values off the top of my head. I wouldn't necessarily go replacing it however if there is no need to.
It could last for years or decades after all, especially with intermittent usage. Mine on the other hand is often powered up for days on end, so it gets harder use than one that gets powered on a few times a month.
There are many factors that affect electrolytic cap life (even if they are low quality caps). Don't take my or other's anecdotal experiences and then presume a 100% component failure rate. "Millage will vary" as the saying goes. 🙂
If you are concerned that specific input power cap might fail and you want a spare on hand, then look at it, get the values off it (as I said, they are written on the outside), and order a new one up from a reputable electronics supplier such as Digi-Key or Mouser. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it until (if) it ever fails.
@@Rchelicopterfun No worries and thank you sir, very informative. I'll keep in mind the suppliers you mentioned. Thanks again for explaining and showing how to mod this station for safer operation.
Subbed.
I’d love to see the desoldering version of this station. I was already considering hacking together my own desoldering station. Using a solenoid and Venturi with a pancake air compressor.
Is the 907 handle the best option? Looks like a similar size to the one that comes with the Hakko 888.
It's user preference. As I mentioned in the review, I like the feel & shorter tip working distance of original 9501 handle better, but we are all different. Yes the 907 is very similar to Hakko's 888 handle, so if you use the 888 handle and like it, you'll probably like like the 907 handle. The 907 handle is a slightly better quality than the 9501 handle IMO.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks. I might try the smaller handle. The 888 handle has a good feel, but when soldering something tiny it can seem huge.
What do you think of the v2.01? It is SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper in my country and I am considering it
Great station as well.
RUclips algorithms at it again, and information that I needed, so great timing. Very thorough review, as were the other soldering iron ones you posted, to get me more informed.
If I could impose a question please. I'm in need of a sodlering iron to upgrade from a traditional £20/$30, I've had for years. It's a fixed temp type and has no control. I'm only a hobbyist user, I like to fix things occasionaly but no where near an everyday user.
On my search I found the T100 irons and was fascinated how things have changed, I was tempted to buy one but to me it seemed like a device more targeting users who need portability?I cannot recall I need such an ability. I've watched your SQ-001 review and think its the same device and purpose of use.
I've also just seen your KSGER T12 reviews which also got my intrigued and seemed like a good product and you of course highly approve.
My question is, are they still overkill for my use? Are these products more for semi/pro use or good irons to have around for ocassional use, hopefully giving years of light usage?
If not, what would you recommend? I do like the changing of tips so keep that in mind.
Appreciate any advice. Thanks
I would agree with you that getting a T100/T80 would not be the best if portability is a non issue. They are awesome little irons for field use and where you have no electrical hook up, but nothing IMO beats a good bench top soldering station if that is your primary soldering location. These little Ksger T12's could be considered somewhat semi-portable because they are small, so it not like you can't easy move them around to different work stations or areas.
As for the Ksger T12 being a good fit for you - that is something I can't answer. You know your specific soldering needs and frequency of use much better than I do. I feel these are amazing solder stations for the average hobbyist. They are likely no good for hard core users that need to use a solder station for hours every day (repair tech for example); nor are they likely the best choice for someone who only solders a few times a year. If you use an iron several times a month or week however, then they are a good fit IMO.
@@Rchelicopterfun Appreciate the reply. That's a fair summary. My main reason to liking the ts100 types; because I like gadgets and it looked hightech compared to mine, lame reason for me to buy one though and as you surmised, the Ksger T12 probably not going to be used to its full potential.
Unless I get either one at a ridiculously low price, I'll look for something else then.
There are literally so many on banggood, probably just take a punt at a cheaper one. Again, appreciate the reply.
I ordered mine and they sent the wrong handle. I want the 9501 handle. I would like to meet someone with hands steady enough to use that long ass handle.
If I order this, do you know if I can use the 9501 handler? sorry many questions.
@Ed Diaz, I mentioned at the beginning of the video, you can use any number of the T12 handles. If you check out the product link I supply for the V3.1S, it gives all 6 handle options at time of order.
Thanks for the great reviews John. I have received my KSGER T12 with Ver 3.1S and 6 tips. It came with the improved V2.05 power supply. It still needed some safety mods but they ARE listening. I have however encountered one WEIRD problem with my unit. When selecting my tips from the TIP menu I was UNABLE to clear the J02 tip? Everything else went according to plan but not the J02? I reinitializing the unit via the INIT menu item but the problem with the J02 remained.
This is a minor issue but I was wondering if anyone else had encountered anything similar. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Rick
Thinking of purchasing the ver3.1s myself, can I ask what safety mods are needed?
@@brushlessrusty The author of this video has numerous videos on the T12. The main problem is lack of grounding of the case. (The heat sink next to HV in the power supply seems to have been addresses with the V2.05 power supply.) For info on how to ground the case see: ruclips.net/video/9BnxiF-gQwQ/видео.html A problem introduced with the 2.05 power supply is an uncoupling from the ground of the soldering iron tip. This requires the addition of a wire on the power supply board.
@ve7asr - Thanks for the update confirmation on the 2.05 board with some improved safety. As for why the J02 tip can't be unchecked from inventory - no idea there mate. So every other tip can be unchecked out of inventory, it's just the J02 that can't - correct? Yes, very WEIRD! Perhaps someone else will chime in.
@@Rchelicopterfun Right ... every other tip performs as expected. It's not a big deal , just a bit of a mystery!
i have some problem with J02😢
Hey man, are there any differences between 2.1 and 2.01? the only available version in my country is 2.01.
Don't know. I've only used the 2.1S & the 3.1S versions.
if the old one is left over. can you sent it to me I can't afford a proper working soldering station
Just getting into soldering so I bought this station, sadly only getting an error message on the display even when the tip is all the way in, what could be happening?
Sounds like an open circuit between the head unit and soldering handle or a bad tip.
Hello, I've watched and read so many reviews and decided to purchase one of these, but the official store (and, as I see, all other stores) in aliexpress now ships the 3.1S version with MM32 chip. I asked them and they told me if I want STM32, I need to order 2.1S version. Can you please help me with this one, which is better to order? I can't find any reviews of the 3.1S version with the MM32 chip? Is it good and will it do the job?
I'd personally go with the 2.1s. It's still my favorite and best performer of the two.
@@Rchelicopterfun thank you! Ordered 2.1S 😊😊
🙂👍
@@Rchelicopterfun just came back here to say again - thank you. For the advice and for all the videos. My station arrived today and I am happy with it. It has newer version of the mains pcb, the big cap is not so close to the heat sink, also there are no traces under the heat sink. The controlling pcb is also updated, no problem with the battery drain, the famous R1 isn't there, it's differently arranged. I only had to do the grounding, already done :)
As I look at your review of the 3.1s, I am glad I took you advice and ordered 2.1s. I don't need this second display option and I am happy I have the stepping option.
Mine shows 2.1S version on HW and 2.12 SW.
I only hope now it will age well, but why not, as I see, people are using these stations since years :)
@@Rchelicopterfun And what about the new STC V2.3 version with grounded case and color display? And what's the difference between STC32, MM32 and STC? Does it matters? Thanks!
Dang it! I want your firmware. I got a 3.1s late last year. Came with a 6-pin 907 handle, and the PSU is different, with the BR heatsink NOT crossing over the mains trace, plus it had a DC barrel jack for external 24v in. All wins in my opinion (apart from the 907 handle. I have the other handle on the way as we speak) The NTC is inside the station also.
But my firmware does not have the tip selection, tip calibration, no PID configuration and other features yours does.
In fact mine says HW ver 3.1 SW ver 6.2M
I'd like to think it is genuine... I wonder if there's a contact for KSGER support who I can contact to see if there is the possibility of an update?
Help i cant change to display 2, all display showing big numbers only
I'm having the same issue, changing between display1 and display2 does nothing.
@@cryptomasterbehemoth6655 where di you bought it? Mine came from banggood
No idea why yours aren't changing screens - mine works fine by going into the menu, and selecting either 1 or 2. Have you confirmed in the system info menu (#19) you have HW version 3.10 & SW 3.1S? Also, have you tried a factory reset. That's all I can suggest.
Hi! I have version 2.1s of this device. I discovered that there is a buzzing sound (like coil whine) when you bring the encoder part closer to your ear. Is there such a thing on your device?
Nope, my 2.1 & 3.1 are both silent. If I hold them right to my ear, they both have the slightest hum but it's very faint.
@@Rchelicopterfun - [x] There is very little hum in my device too. The interesting thing is that I also have the ts100 soldering iron, it also has the same hum but it is very little. I wonder. Is it hum of stm32 controller.
Which iron handle shoud i take? The 9501, the 907 or the M8?
That is 100% your decision. As I stated in the video, the 9501 is my favorite, but others hate it.
I'm new to this hobby. Recently bought this station as my first one. I'm very pleased with the product, and I want to thank you for the review, as it feels like a very decent tool use! Not like my other, cheap chinese soldering iron, which i bought when i was in 8th grade and it blew right in my hands at it's first use. That kept me away for many years from the soldering, and now i am finally coming back with THIS tool :D
One newbie question though - can i somehow swap the soldering handle to a hot air gun one, and just plug it into this station? Or the controller is designed purely for soldering tips?
@Uncle Sam - Glad to hear you are enjoying your T12 station thus far. As to if a hot air wand will work with this station, no. Hot air rework, requires much more power and energy to create enough heat to blow out at 300C + temperatures. All hot air rework heaters therefor use 120-240 VAC line voltage for the heating elements, not low 24 VDC voltage like these solder irons do.
I have done a review on KSGER's hot air 858D rework station if you wanted to see what they are about & the differences between it and a solder station: ruclips.net/video/C1OiKfb_0M8/видео.html
This follow-up/update video on both of the KSGER soldering tools you may also find useful: ruclips.net/video/Dy9WUtvdBUk/видео.html
Is the soldering station actually more powerful than the previous version? 120w 3.1>75w2.1 The power supplies look similar.
Same power.
Can you please show how to use it with a battery power source? Does it require a mod for this? Thanks! Great thorough review cheers
No idea. I only use mine with the built in PS and yes it would have to be modded to accept a different power source.
@@Rchelicopterfun would it just be as simple as giving 24v to that front board?
Perhaps - as I said, I've never powered it that way so I'm not the person to ask. You would also have to have some way of decoupling the power input from the PS the instant you hook it up to a battery feed. Don't want to be back feeding a switch mode power supply. A small DTDP toggle switch perhaps to change from one power input source to the other...
@@Rchelicopterfun ok I might buy one and do that then. I was gonna buy a TS100 but I think this one might be better, and if I can power it by battery it will achieve what I want it to do. I'll do a video of this on my channel and reference your vids
Can't Believe my Luck received a V2.1s on first plugin with supplied K tip went thermal and started glowing cherry red at 250 Degree so going back to the long river Co
@Andrew Forster - Faulty tip or faulty station?
Hello i just really wanted to ask you I'm getting new soldering iron/station so which do you recommend me more KSEGER T12 V3.1S or V2.1S and TS 100-80 I know that you tried them soo if you can give me your opinion I watched your channel for over year just keep the good work. Thank you very much. Sorry if my english is not soo good but its not my primary language
Totally depends if you want a portable soldering iron or a bench top station. If it's a station, either the 3.1 or 2.1 are almost identical - just subtle differences in the display options. As for the TS100 vs 80. I prefer the 100 because it's more powerful and has a more robust barrel power connector over a USBC. That is of course for harder field & shop use where I use my portable iron. In other words - application dependent.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you for answering i will mainly do things in a lab so i am definitely going to get KSGER 3.1S
Wondering if this would be a good station for a person brand new to soldiering?
That really depends what you plan on soldering and how often you'll be soldering.
If you'll only be using it a few times a year to solder wire/similar; a soldering station (no matter what brand or model) will be overkill. It may also be frustrating using a more complex soldering station seldom because you'll have to remember how to use it every time. If on the other hand you are getting into electronics and/or will be soldering several times a month/week, then getting a proper soldering station is a good investment and one you will both enjoy and get your money's worth. These T12 stations represent excellent value and performance. My 2 cents.
@@Rchelicopterfun thanks, I definitely would like to get into electronics more. I'll definitely need to practice on how to use it properly.
Thank you for making this follow up video. I was so impressed about your statement in regards to Chinese Cheap Hardware. I remembered you opened up a Weller soldering station and basically said look at this: Well known brand but poor build quality. Definitely Americans need to step it up again. Also you said if my Ksger would fail today you wouldn’t hesitate replacing it with exactly the same the next day. I enjoyed your upgrade video of the heat gun. Once again thank you for making these videos.
Thanks for the feedback.
So is the v2.1s the best to get?
what is different of long vs short tips?
Is there a dc jack input to run it off a battery?
No, you would have to mod that yourself.
Can you get hot tweezers for this?
I like my KSGER... Only 2 thing I hate about them is the handle itself and that the older models are not properly grounded. The blue plastic one like you old one has gets hot where you hold it after using for 20 or more mins. The metal ones have quality control issues, and that blue and yellow has a screw on handle and longer tip to grip. KSGER need to make a model that lets you plug a JBC pin in lol.
Can you buy replacement tips?
Yes, as I state in the video it uses very popular T12 soldering tips. Links in description.
Is this a copy of the Unisolder ?
I was hoping to see a Fahrenheit setting.
Can it do XT90 to 10 gauge ? Or should I buy a solder gun?
A T12 soldering station will have no problem with 10 AWG; with good soldering technique, a large enough thermal mass tip (D24 or D4 for example), and good quality solder of course.
i have this 3.1, but its not stm32, uts mm32