You guys rock! My Maytag was turning of the heat after 3 - 5 min and would not start back up until it cooled. Your directions were spot on and I was able to replace the gas valves with my dryer in a stacked configuration. I loved your diagrams and individual videos that helped me get to the part without taking too much apart. Thanks to your video, I realized I only had to remove the front lower panel. I was back up in and running in 15 min. Thank you!
Thank you for the videos and parts. My gas dryer was not properly drying clothes after several cycles. After watching your videos, I replaced the solenoids and it was fixed ! I am sure that I save hundreds on a repair bill or replacement. Thanks !
Great informative video, thank you very much for posting. This helped me troubleshoot my gas dryer and actually arrive to the solution, which was by replacing the coils and done, problem fixed by spending only $30. Calling a company just to troubleshoot would have been about $120. GREAT VIDEO again, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
The solenoid resistance test is not that conclusive/reliable. I removed mine and passed, but decided to replace it anyway since its cheap to replace Next thing I know is, it fixed the problem. I am not an electronics expert, but I think even though the solenoid is good electrically, it could still jam mechanically. My doorbell was the same way.
Very detailed, very good quality, the music is non intrusive with the dialog, perfection...And by the way, I'm just replacing the coils on the gas control valve as there's no continuity...Thank you!
Thanks! Helped me confirm one solenoid was completely gone, no resistance or continuity. Purchased the genuine OEM parts from your website. Thanks again guys.
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Great video. It directly and succinctly addresses the question I had regarding the valve coils. Since one of my values on an analog multimeter was just at the lower limit of the range, I think that the test is inconclusive. So, the comment that it could still be the valves, but if replacing the valves does not solve it, then it is likely the gas valve itself that needs to be replaced, is exactly the information I needed.
you need to test it when its hot. Use a hairdryer to heat it then test it again. Mine had continuity when it was cold but dropped it when it got hotter
100% agree, XCELCIER my solenoids both checked approx 1300 when cold, after heated with a hair dryer I got zero Continuity on the smaller and about 500 on the larger. My symptoms were dryer would only heat for about 5 mins then igniter would cycle but burner wouldn't light up. My vent was partially clogged which probably killed the solenoids in the first place.
Tested mine with heat and the resistance went up. The symptoms I’m having is the igniter glows for 30 seconds then goes out. I don’t smell gas until after the igniter goes out. The sears repair video I watched diagnosed that to be the coils. Parts store is closed so won’t know until tomorrow. Wonder why the gas valves would open after the igniter goes out?
I have a Kenmore 70 Series Gas Dryer that is not getting hot. Igniter glows then flame begins but lasts only about 3-5 minutes. I ordered new Solenoid coils from Amazon. Before installing, I used my Multimeter to test with 2K ohm setting. When testing the 3-terminal solenoid and particularly testing prongs 2 and 3 I get OL reading with the new coils. My old coils give me a 1600+ reading from prongs 2 and 3, Is it possible Amazon sent me bad coils? Should new solenoid coils show a positive reading for terminals 2 and 3?
My gas turns on and heats for about four minutes then flames out and blows cold air. The thermistor and thermal fuse are OK. Could this be the coil failing when it gets hot and shutting the gas valve?
that is interesting. My Maytag gas coils all tested okay. Then I paid $120. for diagnosis and was told the coils were bad. probably. I replaced them one at a time. I thought it would be the holding coil, it was not . The bad coil was the secondary. Next time I will just replace the coils.
Are gas valve coil models interchangeable? For example part WPW10328463 is one piece. If it malfunctions, could a two piece set be used (part 279834 for reference)? Or should that particular dryer use what it originally came with? Thank you!
Hi: Do I need to test the Solenoid terminal 2 and 3 together (at the 3 terminal coil)? Both of my Solenoid (new and old) stay at 1, all other reading are fine ( e.g. terminal 1 and 3, 2 and 3, 4 and 5, but not terminal 2 and 3 together). Is this normal or they both bad. Because I changed the Solenoid, it still doesn't fix the problem. Thank you
I have a Kenmore Series 70 Gas Dryer. I just purchased two new solenoids from Amazon. I have the same testing issue with the new solenoid. For the 3-terminal solenoid when I test terminals 2 and 3 together, my multimeter shows "OL". Did you receive bad solenoids? Does it sound to you as if I received bad solenoids. I don't want to install these solenoids if they are defective. How did you ultimately resolve your dryer's heating problem?
So you check up the 3-prong coil with a multimeter, 1&2 and 1&3. What about 2&3? My gas dryer stops heating after 4~5minutes and doesn't heat up until it's completely cooled down. So, i get correct numbers on the multimeter when i check up 1&2 and 1&3. But nothing on 2&3. Is this normal? Thanks.
I have the same question and issue regarding terminals 2 and 3 for 3 terminal solenoid. Is it normal to get a blank or OL reading? If so, why does the video say we should get a 1600 to 2000 reading?
If the flame comes on for 30 seconds and goes out and will not flame up again . The small coil on the gas valve is bad .See xcelcier below one year ago.
Help! I made sure it's not the thermal fuse. Checked the peep and noticed it doesnt glow at all while running and everything seems to be ok except no heat. The coils seem to test ok using the ohm setting bc my multimeter doesnt have a contuinity setting. Any ideas?
If there's no glow at all, you should check your igniter. This channel has a video on that, too, but it's just a continuity test (any reading other than an open circuit on your ohmmeter)
Drsr483gg4ww gas dryer tumbles but doesn’t get hot. The igniter ignites , but the gas valve is not opening, when the igniter is glowing the solenoids are buzzing, the solenoids stop buzzing when the igniter goes off. This cycle keeps repeating, Successful Continuity tests were performed on the (1) Thermal Fuse, (2) both solenoids, (3) the ignitor (4) flame sensor (5) thermostats with a digital meter and they all checked out fine. Background: This dryer operated fine at our son’s home and then sat in storage a few months and now we are having this problem. The only think we have done is changed the direction of the door swing and the door now opens to the right. Thanks for any help!
You guys rock! My Maytag was turning of the heat after 3 - 5 min and would not start back up until it cooled. Your directions were spot on and I was able to replace the gas valves with my dryer in a stacked configuration. I loved your diagrams and individual videos that helped me get to the part without taking too much apart. Thanks to your video, I realized I only had to remove the front lower panel. I was back up in and running in 15 min. Thank you!
Thank you for the videos and parts. My gas dryer was not properly drying clothes after several cycles. After watching your videos, I replaced the solenoids and it was fixed ! I am sure that I save hundreds on a repair bill or replacement. Thanks !
Great informative video, thank you very much for posting. This helped me troubleshoot my gas dryer and actually arrive to the solution, which was by replacing the coils and done, problem fixed by spending only $30. Calling a company just to troubleshoot would have been about $120. GREAT VIDEO again, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
Good work Sal!
The solenoid resistance test is not that conclusive/reliable. I removed mine and passed, but decided to replace it anyway since its cheap to replace Next thing I know is, it fixed the problem.
I am not an electronics expert, but I think even though the solenoid is good electrically, it could still jam mechanically. My doorbell was the same way.
Very detailed, very good quality, the music is non intrusive with the dialog, perfection...And by the way, I'm just replacing the coils on the gas control valve as there's no continuity...Thank you!
Thanks! Helped me confirm one solenoid was completely gone, no resistance or continuity. Purchased the genuine OEM parts from your website. Thanks again guys.
I thought he said between 1000 and 200 ohms. Shouldn't your say that instead of zero?
Y’all make the best videos
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
What do you call the tube where the flame was enclosed?
Thank you for the video! Confirmed 2 prong solenoid had no continuity or resistance.
Great video. It directly and succinctly addresses the question I had regarding the valve coils. Since one of my values on an analog multimeter was just at the lower limit of the range, I think that the test is inconclusive. So, the comment that it could still be the valves, but if replacing the valves does not solve it, then it is likely the gas valve itself that needs to be replaced, is exactly the information I needed.
This video was instrumental in the diagnosis and repair of my dryer.
Very clear instruction.
you need to test it when its hot. Use a hairdryer to heat it then test it again. Mine had continuity when it was cold but dropped it when it got hotter
100% agree, XCELCIER
my solenoids both checked approx 1300 when cold, after heated with a hair dryer I got zero Continuity on the smaller and about 500 on the larger.
My symptoms were dryer would only heat for about 5 mins then igniter would cycle but burner wouldn't light up.
My vent was partially clogged which probably killed the solenoids in the first place.
I wish I had read this before I spent $120.00 for diagnostics.
@XCELCIER thank you for the test-while-hot tip. Mine ohm’d fine a room temp, but after hair drying the large coil became an open circuit.
Thank you for posting this. Mine tested fine when cold. I suspect it will fail when hot.
Tested mine with heat and the resistance went up. The symptoms I’m having is the igniter glows for 30 seconds then goes out. I don’t smell gas until after the igniter goes out. The sears repair video I watched diagnosed that to be the coils. Parts store is closed so won’t know until tomorrow. Wonder why the gas valves would open after the igniter goes out?
keep doing the videos very informative
Hi good morning ! I would like to know how to test gas valve for Samsung dryer? My dryer keeps the flame for 5
seconds and then shuts off.
Thank you.
Great video, I just replaced my gas valve coils.
On my three prong solenoid I only get a resistance reading from one side of the 1st terminal, which makes no sense to me.
I have a Kenmore 70 Series Gas Dryer that is not getting hot. Igniter glows then flame begins but lasts only about 3-5 minutes. I ordered new Solenoid coils from Amazon. Before installing, I used my Multimeter to test with 2K ohm setting. When testing the 3-terminal solenoid and particularly testing prongs 2 and 3 I get OL reading with the new coils. My old coils give me a 1600+ reading from prongs 2 and 3, Is it possible Amazon sent me bad coils? Should new solenoid coils show a positive reading for terminals 2 and 3?
Y’all got another sub. Thanks a lot 👍🏽
What if the ignitor dont even come on do see gas even turning on is it the coils for sure havnt replace them ??
Are these solenoids replacement parts for solenoids for gas valves (Maytag/ADC part numbers A128944/128944) on the Maytag/ADC MLG33PDAWW dryer?
Very well done. Succinct and to the point while being quite informative.
So, is the "coil" the gas equivalent of a relay switch?
My gas turns on and heats for about four minutes then flames out and blows cold air. The thermistor and thermal fuse are OK. Could this be the coil failing when it gets hot and shutting the gas valve?
my coils failed the continuity test, but so did the replacement coils.
The continuity is meant to be a test for solid electric connection, usually, a continuity test will fail if the resistance is above around just 600ohm
that is interesting. My Maytag gas coils all tested okay. Then I paid $120. for diagnosis and was told the coils were bad. probably. I replaced them one at a time. I thought it would be the holding coil, it was not . The bad coil was the secondary. Next time I will just replace the coils.
Are gas valve coil models interchangeable? For example part WPW10328463 is one piece. If it malfunctions, could a two piece set be used (part 279834 for reference)? Or should that particular dryer use what it originally came with? Thank you!
Could a coil test ok but still not work. Please help?
Hi: Do I need to test the Solenoid terminal 2 and 3 together (at the 3 terminal coil)? Both of my Solenoid (new and old) stay at 1, all other reading are fine ( e.g. terminal 1 and 3, 2 and 3, 4 and 5, but not terminal 2 and 3 together). Is this normal or they both bad. Because I changed the Solenoid, it still doesn't fix the problem. Thank you
I have a Kenmore Series 70 Gas Dryer. I just purchased two new solenoids from Amazon. I have the same testing issue with the new solenoid. For the 3-terminal solenoid when I test terminals 2 and 3 together, my multimeter shows "OL". Did you receive bad solenoids? Does it sound to you as if I received bad solenoids. I don't want to install these solenoids if they are defective. How did you ultimately resolve your dryer's heating problem?
What if it comes on every other min even after new solenoids
So you check up the 3-prong coil with a multimeter, 1&2 and 1&3. What about 2&3? My gas dryer stops heating after 4~5minutes and doesn't heat up until it's completely cooled down. So, i get correct numbers on the multimeter when i check up 1&2 and 1&3. But nothing on 2&3. Is this normal? Thanks.
I have the same question and issue regarding terminals 2 and 3 for 3 terminal solenoid. Is it normal to get a blank or OL reading? If so, why does the video say we should get a 1600 to 2000 reading?
There should be no connection between 2 and 3. Pin 1 is common, so 2 and 3 only connect to 1, not each other.
If the flame comes on for 30 seconds and goes out and will not flame up again . The small coil on the gas valve is bad .See xcelcier below one year ago.
Help! I made sure it's not the thermal fuse. Checked the peep and noticed it doesnt glow at all while running and everything seems to be ok except no heat. The coils seem to test ok using the ohm setting bc my multimeter doesnt have a contuinity setting. Any ideas?
If there's no glow at all, you should check your igniter. This channel has a video on that, too, but it's just a continuity test (any reading other than an open circuit on your ohmmeter)
Replace the coil cost 8 dls on line my dryer running like new now
Hi my roper gas dryer the gas comes on but it goes out in LESS than 30 seconds..
did you replace the coils and get it going ? I got all 3 for $30. on ebay.
I have this problem and it sound like a click when shut off.
Hot or cold continuity stay the same. When I put the voltmeter to sound it start but just make a beep and off, the same with the other one.
Drsr483gg4ww gas dryer tumbles but doesn’t get hot. The igniter ignites , but the gas valve is not opening, when the igniter is glowing the solenoids are buzzing, the solenoids stop buzzing when the igniter goes off. This cycle keeps repeating,
Successful Continuity tests were performed on the (1) Thermal Fuse, (2) both solenoids, (3) the ignitor (4) flame sensor (5) thermostats with a digital meter and they all checked out fine.
Background: This dryer operated fine at our son’s home and then sat in storage a few months and now we are having this problem. The only think we have done is changed the direction of the door swing and the door now opens to the right.
Thanks for any help!
JCO Lake
L
Borgian Pk.
Hold on you selected continuity not 2000 ohms
"Even then the test could be inconclusive"
Well that's kind of pointless
Is it .579 or 579? There’s a difference. The camera angle is terrible!
My coils are bad
mykenmore dryer is old and both coils have no plugs just 2 wires with wire nuts. Where can I get these parts?
Hi good morning ! I would like to know how to test gas valve for Samsung dryer? My dryer keeps the flame for 5
seconds and then shuts off.
Thank you.